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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    This was the winter that I was planning to get started on the rocker. I go too sucked into turning instead. I still want to build the rocker, but it will have to wait for next winter. It will probably be dryer by then anyways. I have updated my lathe recently from the Laguna 1216 to the Laguna 2436. Awesome lathe. Here are a couple bowls from this tree though.
  2. 5 points
    Moving ahead and I'm really pleased with the progress. Completed the front leg joints. I left them bulky to have flat surfaces for the routing, after the routing I placed my pattern over the leg and shaped them some. In this pic the leg on the right has already had a visit with the bandsaw and the one one the left is headed there. Both side supports after bandsawing, starting to take shape; Front legs went quickly; And I think we are starting to see the chair form, but still bulky; Next I did an offset turning of the front legs, following the same steps as the Maloof Rocker. Then cut out the front and back seat cross supports. Dominoed the front joint and it's looking good; And the money shot; I'm really happy how it looks. Still way bulky in some places and I need to attach the back seat support. Also need the back cross supports and headrest cut out. Once thats done and those pieces are fitted I'll meet again with the upholstery guy and get the shaping tools out. This is going way more smoothly than I thought, hoping I'm not overlooking something.
  3. 3 points
    All fixed. Doing this reminds me why I like wood working much more than steel. When I was done a clean up of my hands was in order. A combination of rust and oil. Don't touch anything you will stain it. After this, sawdust on my hands puts a smile on my face. Gloves don't like me. My hands sweat profusely. Cant be a surgeon. Fixing the drill press was important. But it is a chore. Working in wood is a pleasure. It gives me oxygen!
  4. 3 points
    Thanks gee-dub for the plan! This will be helpful for me. no turnbuckles required on the edges. The center turnbuckle only holds the panels in. It takes less than a minute after 2 try's extremely stable You get 2 different dimensions. I changed from the plan by having the pine wrap and cover the plywood edge. A great idea. storage is minimal. Less than a sheet of plywood. and a little bit of wood. I screwed it together which gave me some experience with my new drill press. My efficiency with drilling has jumped multifold!. Nice tool.
  5. 3 points
    Gee dub is the man to talk with for home built jigs, benches and cabinet's for the shop.
  6. 2 points
    OK I admit it. Sometimes I shop at Harbor Freight, but hey, Tom does, too, and he does not suffer junk gladly. Occasionally they have something. So my New Year's resolution (which I also vowed I wasn't actually going to do) was to organize my shop. My pressing need was to create a space for my lathe tools to be when I wasn't actually turning with them. The idea of building something did not excite me. Before Christmas Tom had mentioned that he was looking at mechanic's carts, which got me thinking and looking around. Most all the carts I saw had drawers that are too narrow for my tools, but HF had this 30" 4 drawer tech cart with 25" wide drawers, perfect for my 24" tools. So I bought one. I put it together today, and I am pleasantly surprised to be able to report that it is very well done. Although I am dismayed to see how quickly the drawers filled up and I still have a few tools to stow. Maybe I should have bought two (I mean I can't get rid of any tools -- I might need some of these some day ). It came partially disassembled in a carton weighing about 110 lbs, but it's easy to unpack and bring in piecemeal. I took the drawers out of the chest which made it easy. The assembly instructions are as you might expect, not great, but interpretable, and typical for products these days. The cart went together easily. All the holes lined up and parts all fit. Some of the nuts are in awkward places requiring creative wrenching solutions, but a minor challenge. I purchased the optional fold out shelf and I recommend you install this as you are building the cart as you will otherwise have to remove some of the nuts you just creatively wrenched. All together it appears well built and sturdy. The steel pieces were all completely painted with a good finish. The drawers latch in place when closed and operate reasonably smoothly, not butter smooth, but no cursing is required. The drawers are locked if the lid is down (I wish they did not lock, but that's how they make these carts). Gas struts hold the lid open just fine. The fold out table seems secure. The caster locking mechanism seems stiff, but may just need some breaking in. Otherwise it rolls easily. Not a bad product as far as I can see.
  7. 2 points
    It might seem strange to have a review of a floor jack on a woodworking forums, but I have used them for moving machines more than a few times. I bought a 40' shipping container recently, and just put it on wooden blocks temporarily. We put it on solid concrete blocks for a more permanent foundation. When we started leveling it, we used the 3 ton floor jack, that I already had, and a bottle jack. It was too scary with the bottle jack, so I went to Harbor Freight, and bought another floor jack, so we could safely jack up one side, or one end without being in harms way. I was surprised at the quality of this jack. I had looked at CL, to see what was available, and there was a SnapOn listed for $400. That SnapOn looks identical to this particular model from Harbor Freight-not close, but absolutely identical. It's also currently on sale for $99.99. I actually bought it a couple of days ago for 129.99, but the salesman told me to bring the invoice back for a price adjustment. I haven't gotten around to it, but will. This thing surprised me, and it operates much better than my old one. I'm sure it will be the first one reached for when we need one. They come in a bunch of different colors. I'm not sure how long the sale lasts, or what coupons might apply. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-orange-64200.html?_br_psugg_q=floor+jack
  8. 2 points
    Makes me want t design and build something just to try this.
  9. 1 point
    No, not reliably. I think it would with dye though.
  10. 1 point
    Yeah i'd use the WD40 and scotch bright myself but you have me thinking i should chk mine LOL Hasn't moved much in the last 15 years
  11. 1 point
    Well I think your observation is spot on for that pic, but I think that pic is a little deceiving. They are still 2" wide. I'll reduce the width to about 1.5" and won't change them thickness wise much if at all. I think the finally dimension of those back legs at the tip will be 1.5" x 1", I'm ok with that. For example I turned the front legs to 1.25" at the base. We'll see but I appreciate the observation. Maybe I should put a max weight sign on the chair!
  12. 1 point
    I saw this this morning in my email and deleted it without watching. It's too cool! Thanks for posting, Drew! I'm going to use it in the box class this semester!
  13. 1 point
    +1 Nut, you’re full of resources!
  14. 1 point
    I wish I did not have this problem. But all the advice, kindness and consideration boosts my confidence knowing that quality answers are at my fingertips due to this pleasant and willing community! Thanks You
  15. 1 point
    Turn the vac on, you'll be amazed at how much better sanding is when the dust is actually pulled away. The shock may only be static, but I would take precautions against electrucution from the tool, just in case.
  16. 1 point
    I'd bet it's static electricity. A ground wire from the sander around the DC hose to a screw on the vac or DC. should solve the problem.
  17. 1 point
    So with the prototype #3 complete I've ferreted out most of the potential issues that I think I'm going to have with the project. Step 1 was stock selection. I dug through the 6/4 stock I bought to make the chairs. For the rear legs i wanted close to rift sawn stock that had a swoop in the grain that would match the bend of the rear legs. I was able to get 8-9 of the legs with perfect grain. I don't want to be bee too picky as they are a use chair not a show chair. I used my 1/4" thick template to outline blanks. This example is probably the worst grain that I had for the legs. Most of the other are tighter and more strait. I cut the outside off first. After I got the legs to this point I took them to the jointer to flatten 1 side. After I flattened the 1 side I cut each blank out of the stock. I operated this way because i wanted the cuts to be as strait as possible between the blanks to minimize waste. Cutting 1 leg out of a 5" wide by 42" long piece of lumber is wasteful. I can nest them and get 3 pieces out of a 7" wide board. The other benefit is if the grain is running in a good direction I can get good grain and color match and preserve more of the preferable rift sawn grain. This does create a HUGE issue. Joinery reference surfaces are non existent on 2 sides now. This is solved by marking the center point of the rails and using a routing sled to finalize the shape of the legs. I believe mar does the rear legs from blanks the way he does in the dining chair series to make it easier to maintain the joinery reference surfaces. I feel maintaining that surface is unimportant because the next steps with the legs will reestablish good joinery surfaces. After each leg is liberated from the main stock, they are planed so the top face is made parallel to the jointed face. I planed after separating them because I had my layout lines marked. Also the wider stock was easier to control on the jointer but is less important on the planer. With the blanks planed to thickness I mounted them into my template sled for shaping. The sled has 2 sides. The first side takes the rough blank and allows me to position it to set the first reference edge. I have a reference mark on the sled that provides me the center line for the chair side rails. This allows me to position the blank on the opposite side of the sled. On the opposite side the previously routed edge references the fence, in this case it's the block that hold the toggle clamps, and allows the blank to be shaped to exact size. For reference the sled is explained here (https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30442-dining-chairs/?do=findComment&comment=401609). For this round I only managed to get 1 side of the rear legs done. From the off cuts shown in picture #2, I was able to get at least 1 front leg and in some cases 2. Because the stock contained a lot of rift grain the front legs generally have minimal grain runout and have nice strait grain. My waste from off of this is quite minimal as a result. This waste will be used as well to make some turning blanks. I think I'm going to use it to experiment with some really large Celtic knots. I'm goign to build the chairs from the back rest forward. I will join the rear legs together first. Second the front legs will be attached to the rear legs with the side rails. I will then grab dimensions for the front rail and will assemble the side rails, front rail, and front legs all at once. With the construction going this way I'll need to have the back rail and headrest rail cut out first. I made a routing sled for the crest rails as well. This one sucked to use a lot. Because it was so small i had a lot of catches and it scared the crap out of me too many times for my liking. I also cut out the rear and side rails. This will rest until I need them. Then i will cut them closer to final dimensions and template route them as well. More to come here.
  18. 1 point
    I hold it a little farther than is intended, probably. The balance is best for me with my thumb, and index finger forward of the side handle, which means I operate the trigger with my middle finger, instead of my index finger. The day would have been perfect for the lift, but they were all rented out before I called, so I just played with the saw a little.
  19. 1 point
    I believe I'd begin by repositioning the thrust bearings - the bearings mounted perpendicularly and behind the blade above and below the table. You'll probably need to remove the blade completely to do this adjustment. I'm not familiar enough with that model Jet to know if they're on an eccentric or if the posts they mount to are hexagonal going into the mounting fixture. Either way, they can be repositioned by rotating the mounting stem so that the blade rides roughly in line with the first outermost concentric circle (you have an outer circumference, then several inner concentric circles making up the bearing). On yours, one is too far outside and one is way too far inside. The photo below is on an Inca bandsaw, but the position of the blade relative to the thrust bearing is what you're shooting for. Before you start, back the side guides completely away from the blade so that they don't influence the blade position at all. Once the thrust bearings are positioned correctly and the blade is at proper tension, then adjust the side guides so that they are set about the thickness of a $100 bill folded in half from the blade. Once you have it tracking correctly forward the bill to the address I'm sending you via DM.
  20. 1 point
    Awesome technique for door hinges that are different from what most hinge companies could provide. Thought someone here might like to find this. I might also reference it in the future.
  21. 1 point
    I plan to take a class from Steve Latta in may.. stringin , etc. Am really looking forward to it.