Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/13/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    So it's going to be a trade for a piece of furniture, but a friend stopped by and paid me up front I've wanted an over/under for years and years, and also always wanted a Beretta. So it's a triple win because I have the shotgun and I get to build a nice piece of furniture in trade.
  2. 6 points
    I would like to thank everyone who offered suggestions regarding my planer problems! I waxed the deck, cleaned the rollers, replaced the brushes and checked the electrical input. No problems with the electrical input found. I have to say, that it works as good now as the day that I purchased it. I was able to plane hickory this weekend without any problems (using common sense and took small bites each time). I can't say which upgrade helped the most, but it really doesn't matter as long as it works. Thanks again....!
  3. 5 points
    Finally got to glue-up for the box. Sanded everything from 100 to 220, did a little tune-up on a couple spots that I left till last, then dabbed some Titebond II on the pins and squared it up. Inserted the false top and now it's taking shape - permanently. So I got out the scraper since this sapele requires a lot of surface prep. Never enough, it seems. Still haven't decided on a finish, but AquaCoat seems to flatten it out quite well. Although I'm starting to wonder if I really need it to be perfectly flat; it's not a table. But it is square. I got stopped because I was running low on propane for my heater and it's snowing today; and a friend dropped by to give me an over/under Beretta 12 GA shotgun... That's a show stopper for sure.
  4. 3 points
    Busy weekend and not much time in the shop for me. Did take a nice cherry and walnut tree down so I've got some more logs to mill. Need to feed the habit and stay 2 years ahead. Worked alot on the bottom portion of the chair. Have really been racking my brain about how to handle the seat opening. My upholstery guy said just router out a ledge inside the opening for the seat to drop onto. But I did not feel comfortable routing out that groove with all the curves and back by the leg stem the ledge needs to be deeper. I needed to do something as the side rails were too wide and looked way too bulky. Also did not want a square corner in the front part of the seat were the cushion drops in. So I took a deep breath and I struck a .5" wide line on the inside edge of the side legs where the seat will rest. Over to the bandsaw and cut along the line. Looks a lot better now; So I like the width of the side rails now and I was happy how I blended in the side pieces to the front support and the back support; Now I have a nice outline and the proper width in my seat frame. I plan to glue and screw strips for the seat to rest on. Need to talk with my guy on how far down on the frame to place the strips. Here I'm trying one in; So that was a big step forward. I also did some bandsawing and shaping of the seat frame. You can see her it's looking a lot more refined; I also tapered the back legs, here's hoping @Coop I got enough meat. Quick note about design. I am remaking the side back supports. They were just too short for my liking. I started to play with them and the headrest and the cross supports and it did not look good too me. Going to increase length 4". This will mean the chair will be approx 43" high, the original was 40" high but my seat does not slope back and as low as the original. I think that's were the porportions got thrown off. Thanks for looking.
  5. 2 points
    Just before Christmas last year our Pastor showed me a quote for new signage at the church. It was for one logo and two 'Worship' signs over the main entrances to the sanctuary. When I saw what was quoted I volunteered to do the signage. They were going to do the signs in metal and the logo would be 48" and vinyl wrapped, also probably metal. I told Bro Terry that I could do the signs but they would be in 1/2" Baltic Birch. His only request was that no grain show on the logo. I found rattle can enamel that matched close enough and used Hammer Tone finish on the letters so they'd look sort of like metal. To completely fill the grain on the logos I used Bondo on the face and spot putty on the edges. I cut two sets of logos at 60" tall (one for each hallway instead of just one hallway, as was quoted). Sanding the Bondo back down to the BB face was no fun at all and neither was filling and sanding all the edges of the letters and logos. But it worked just fine. I sprayed primer and all the rattle can paint out in the back yard - there's no way I'm going to spray paint inside the shop. So that meant there were many days of high wind or rain or cold when I couldn't spray. Once all the paint had cured for 4-5 days I clear coated everything with Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and gloss lacquer. I allowed the top coat to orange peel slightly so it wouldn't show finger prints as easily. To mount everything I used 1/4" aluminum rod cut to about 2" and Liquid Nails for adhesive. I sharpened aluminum mounting rod ends and we held the logo and letters in place and gently tapped to mark where to drill. Because the logo doesn't have any true horizontal or vertical edges I wondered how I would line them up on the walls (one was sheetrock and one was brick). What I came up with was to cut a piece to fill the negative space and then attach boards on the back to hold the entire piece as a unit for marking, then take the backer boards off to mount each piece of the logo individually. All in all I'd say everything came out nicely and our Pastor is pleased. Now he wants a world map to fill a 12' wall where we can mark the areas we support for missions. That ought to be fun! Logo - Cutting letters on CNC - Cutting logo on the CNC - Edges filled with spot putty - Letters ready for clear coat - Logo with alignment guide - Finished signage in one hallway - Enjoy! David
  6. 2 points
    I have some small dmt diamond sharpening plates. If i need my cuts to be nice and crisp I'll lap my old tired bit with a couple strokes on the flat side and it makes a world of difference. If there is backwards grain I'll also take the last light cut in a climb orientation. I guess i only do this if the piece is large enough to control. If it's a small piece i try and orient the grain so I'm never cutting against the grain.
  7. 2 points
    Yes sir, I think you have substantial. I think you could have close encounters in that chair without a problem! . A Woodworking friend called yesterday after watching a Popular Woodworking video or something similar, on the Maloof rocker and asked if I watched it. I told him no, as we have Bmac. I had to explain.
  8. 1 point
    OK I admit it. Sometimes I shop at Harbor Freight, but hey, Tom does, too, and he does not suffer junk gladly. Occasionally they have something. So my New Year's resolution (which I also vowed I wasn't actually going to do) was to organize my shop. My pressing need was to create a space for my lathe tools to be when I wasn't actually turning with them. The idea of building something did not excite me. Before Christmas Tom had mentioned that he was looking at mechanic's carts, which got me thinking and looking around. Most all the carts I saw had drawers that are too narrow for my tools, but HF had this 30" 4 drawer tech cart with 25" wide drawers, perfect for my 24" tools. So I bought one. I put it together today, and I am pleasantly surprised to be able to report that it is very well done. Although I am dismayed to see how quickly the drawers filled up and I still have a few tools to stow. Maybe I should have bought two (I mean I can't get rid of any tools -- I might need some of these some day ). It came partially disassembled in a carton weighing about 110 lbs, but it's easy to unpack and bring in piecemeal. I took the drawers out of the chest which made it easy. The assembly instructions are as you might expect, not great, but interpretable, and typical for products these days. The cart went together easily. All the holes lined up and parts all fit. Some of the nuts are in awkward places requiring creative wrenching solutions, but a minor challenge. I purchased the optional fold out shelf and I recommend you install this as you are building the cart as you will otherwise have to remove some of the nuts you just creatively wrenched. All together it appears well built and sturdy. The steel pieces were all completely painted with a good finish. The drawers latch in place when closed and operate reasonably smoothly, not butter smooth, but no cursing is required. The drawers are locked if the lid is down (I wish they did not lock, but that's how they make these carts). Gas struts hold the lid open just fine. The fold out table seems secure. The caster locking mechanism seems stiff, but may just need some breaking in. Otherwise it rolls easily. Not a bad product as far as I can see.
  9. 1 point
    You can get colored leather, some of the aniline dyed leather is quite color fast and should hold it's color well over time. My thought is that fabric is the better choice, though this would probably depend on the surroundings. The style and era of furniture is well suited to a fabric.
  10. 1 point
    Not sure if you have made your lighting choice or not but I bought these on amazon and I love them. I have them in my garage and I have 11ft ceilings in there and it made a HUGE difference. These were very simple to install and did not require me to cut out anything. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXFG3BX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  11. 1 point
    Damn you! You beat my alma mater. You have a hell of a program. 38 straight wins?
  12. 1 point
    I've learned the same thing. That last pass should be very light and run through at a moderate, steady speed. Makes a world of difference. I also like to make the second to last pass lighter, maybe an 1/8" or less.
  13. 1 point
    Several months ago I posted about making a bandsaw follower based on the Brian Boggs article in Dec '18 FWW. Most of that discussion is on page 67 of "What did you do today?" https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/27535-what-did-you-do-today/page/67/ Lately I have been rethinking this bandsaw follower and I think I have a better idea on how to do it. The thing is that if you have a single follower pin or point (typically placed in front of the blade), then the distance from the follower to the saw teeth changes depending on the angle of the cut path. This is not a real big problem on a gently curved template, but if there is a tighter curve the saw kerf won't follow the template as well. It occured to me that a solution might be to place the saw teeth in the center of a cylindrical (or half cylinder) pin of known diameter. That way no matter what the cut path, the saw teeth would always be a known distance from the template surface. This is what I did so far: Cut into a 3/4" sheet half way. Carefully center a 1/2" drill bit exactly on the kerf. Friction fit 1/2" dowel standing 3/8" proud. With the dowel center carefully marked, use the bandsaw to cut through to the exact center and stop. The plywood is clamped to the table and the test block is mounted to an old template. Viewed from the rear, the guide pin and template can be seen. The partially complete cut, then the complete cut. A view of the guide pin after the cut. A little worse for the wear, but replaceable. There are a couple of drawbacks to this technique. First, the template is under the piece, so the piece obscures your intended path. You kinda havta use a Braille technique to decide how much and when to rotate the piece to keep from twisting the blade. Second, Your cut line will be 1/4" away from the template surface so you have to compensate for this when making up the template.
  14. 1 point
    If your still using the DeWalt blades. Give "Infinity Tools" a look, they have better replacement blades that can take multiple honings and will last a hell of a lot longer.
  15. 1 point
    Well done David! Your tithes for 2020 have been covered!
  16. 1 point
    All fixed. Doing this reminds me why I like wood working much more than steel. When I was done a clean up of my hands was in order. A combination of rust and oil. Don't touch anything you will stain it. After this, sawdust on my hands puts a smile on my face. Gloves don't like me. My hands sweat profusely. Cant be a surgeon. Fixing the drill press was important. But it is a chore. Working in wood is a pleasure. It gives me oxygen!
  17. 1 point
    This was the winter that I was planning to get started on the rocker. I go too sucked into turning instead. I still want to build the rocker, but it will have to wait for next winter. It will probably be dryer by then anyways. I have updated my lathe recently from the Laguna 1216 to the Laguna 2436. Awesome lathe. Here are a couple bowls from this tree though.
  18. 1 point
    I saw this this morning in my email and deleted it without watching. It's too cool! Thanks for posting, Drew! I'm going to use it in the box class this semester!
  19. 1 point
    Thanks gee-dub for the plan! This will be helpful for me. no turnbuckles required on the edges. The center turnbuckle only holds the panels in. It takes less than a minute after 2 try's extremely stable You get 2 different dimensions. I changed from the plan by having the pine wrap and cover the plywood edge. A great idea. storage is minimal. Less than a sheet of plywood. and a little bit of wood. I screwed it together which gave me some experience with my new drill press. My efficiency with drilling has jumped multifold!. Nice tool.
  20. 1 point
    So with the prototype #3 complete I've ferreted out most of the potential issues that I think I'm going to have with the project. Step 1 was stock selection. I dug through the 6/4 stock I bought to make the chairs. For the rear legs i wanted close to rift sawn stock that had a swoop in the grain that would match the bend of the rear legs. I was able to get 8-9 of the legs with perfect grain. I don't want to be bee too picky as they are a use chair not a show chair. I used my 1/4" thick template to outline blanks. This example is probably the worst grain that I had for the legs. Most of the other are tighter and more strait. I cut the outside off first. After I got the legs to this point I took them to the jointer to flatten 1 side. After I flattened the 1 side I cut each blank out of the stock. I operated this way because i wanted the cuts to be as strait as possible between the blanks to minimize waste. Cutting 1 leg out of a 5" wide by 42" long piece of lumber is wasteful. I can nest them and get 3 pieces out of a 7" wide board. The other benefit is if the grain is running in a good direction I can get good grain and color match and preserve more of the preferable rift sawn grain. This does create a HUGE issue. Joinery reference surfaces are non existent on 2 sides now. This is solved by marking the center point of the rails and using a routing sled to finalize the shape of the legs. I believe mar does the rear legs from blanks the way he does in the dining chair series to make it easier to maintain the joinery reference surfaces. I feel maintaining that surface is unimportant because the next steps with the legs will reestablish good joinery surfaces. After each leg is liberated from the main stock, they are planed so the top face is made parallel to the jointed face. I planed after separating them because I had my layout lines marked. Also the wider stock was easier to control on the jointer but is less important on the planer. With the blanks planed to thickness I mounted them into my template sled for shaping. The sled has 2 sides. The first side takes the rough blank and allows me to position it to set the first reference edge. I have a reference mark on the sled that provides me the center line for the chair side rails. This allows me to position the blank on the opposite side of the sled. On the opposite side the previously routed edge references the fence, in this case it's the block that hold the toggle clamps, and allows the blank to be shaped to exact size. For reference the sled is explained here (https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30442-dining-chairs/?do=findComment&comment=401609). For this round I only managed to get 1 side of the rear legs done. From the off cuts shown in picture #2, I was able to get at least 1 front leg and in some cases 2. Because the stock contained a lot of rift grain the front legs generally have minimal grain runout and have nice strait grain. My waste from off of this is quite minimal as a result. This waste will be used as well to make some turning blanks. I think I'm going to use it to experiment with some really large Celtic knots. I'm goign to build the chairs from the back rest forward. I will join the rear legs together first. Second the front legs will be attached to the rear legs with the side rails. I will then grab dimensions for the front rail and will assemble the side rails, front rail, and front legs all at once. With the construction going this way I'll need to have the back rail and headrest rail cut out first. I made a routing sled for the crest rails as well. This one sucked to use a lot. Because it was so small i had a lot of catches and it scared the crap out of me too many times for my liking. I also cut out the rear and side rails. This will rest until I need them. Then i will cut them closer to final dimensions and template route them as well. More to come here.
  21. 1 point
    I'll forward my address. I would highly recommend requesting a catalog from Iturra Design. His catalog has pretty much all you need to know about bandsaws, including setup, tensioning, replacement parts, tension gauges, accessories, etc. A true wealth of information. I don't see how he can send out what he sends out without charging for it. Iturra Design 1-904-642-2802 Toll Free: 888-722-7078 Email: iturradesign@gmail.com 4636 Fulton Road Jacksonville, Florida 32225-1332
  22. 1 point
    I believe I'd begin by repositioning the thrust bearings - the bearings mounted perpendicularly and behind the blade above and below the table. You'll probably need to remove the blade completely to do this adjustment. I'm not familiar enough with that model Jet to know if they're on an eccentric or if the posts they mount to are hexagonal going into the mounting fixture. Either way, they can be repositioned by rotating the mounting stem so that the blade rides roughly in line with the first outermost concentric circle (you have an outer circumference, then several inner concentric circles making up the bearing). On yours, one is too far outside and one is way too far inside. The photo below is on an Inca bandsaw, but the position of the blade relative to the thrust bearing is what you're shooting for. Before you start, back the side guides completely away from the blade so that they don't influence the blade position at all. Once the thrust bearings are positioned correctly and the blade is at proper tension, then adjust the side guides so that they are set about the thickness of a $100 bill folded in half from the blade. Once you have it tracking correctly forward the bill to the address I'm sending you via DM.
  23. 1 point
    +2, although I sometimes use alcohol on the rollers. Waxing the bed seems to help the most. Another thought: the design uses intake air for the chip ejector fan to cool the motor. If any of the shroud is broken, or clogged with chips, that may also allow the motor to overheat, which will also trip the overload breaker.
  24. 1 point
    I clean the rollers on mine with mineral spirits and wax the table with a good paste wax
  25. 1 point
    I've used a couple of the "skylight" panels that are 1'x4'. They diffuse the light much better than the other fixtures, and they're only about 3/4" thick. These are intended to be surface mounted, so they actually have trim around the edge. The negatives are that they're more expensive, and they're hard wired. If I was starting my lighting over, I'd probably just use a few more of those for the even light through the shop. That's one on the ceiling over my work bench.
  26. 1 point