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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/14/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Yeah I need to squeegee the floor off in between mopping it. Oh and I completed my Kreg project tonight. I also finished my base for the drill press and now just need to put my finish on the wood and then lag the press down onto the base.
  2. 2 points
    I liked it so much (and filled the drawers so quickly) I decided to buy another one. This is the 5 drawer model. It's a little taller and deeper, but the drawers are an inch narrower. Quality is still good, but a notch down from the red one. There were a couple of minor imperfections in the paint and the pieces needed a little encouragement to line up, but not bad. These drawers have mechanical latches rather than detents in the slide mechanism like the red one, and the latches are not quite aligned. Nothing a little filling couldn't fix, but I'd rather not have the latches in the first place.
  3. 2 points
    Just before Christmas last year our Pastor showed me a quote for new signage at the church. It was for one logo and two 'Worship' signs over the main entrances to the sanctuary. When I saw what was quoted I volunteered to do the signage. They were going to do the signs in metal and the logo would be 48" and vinyl wrapped, also probably metal. I told Bro Terry that I could do the signs but they would be in 1/2" Baltic Birch. His only request was that no grain show on the logo. I found rattle can enamel that matched close enough and used Hammer Tone finish on the letters so they'd look sort of like metal. To completely fill the grain on the logos I used Bondo on the face and spot putty on the edges. I cut two sets of logos at 60" tall (one for each hallway instead of just one hallway, as was quoted). Sanding the Bondo back down to the BB face was no fun at all and neither was filling and sanding all the edges of the letters and logos. But it worked just fine. I sprayed primer and all the rattle can paint out in the back yard - there's no way I'm going to spray paint inside the shop. So that meant there were many days of high wind or rain or cold when I couldn't spray. Once all the paint had cured for 4-5 days I clear coated everything with Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and gloss lacquer. I allowed the top coat to orange peel slightly so it wouldn't show finger prints as easily. To mount everything I used 1/4" aluminum rod cut to about 2" and Liquid Nails for adhesive. I sharpened aluminum mounting rod ends and we held the logo and letters in place and gently tapped to mark where to drill. Because the logo doesn't have any true horizontal or vertical edges I wondered how I would line them up on the walls (one was sheetrock and one was brick). What I came up with was to cut a piece to fill the negative space and then attach boards on the back to hold the entire piece as a unit for marking, then take the backer boards off to mount each piece of the logo individually. All in all I'd say everything came out nicely and our Pastor is pleased. Now he wants a world map to fill a 12' wall where we can mark the areas we support for missions. That ought to be fun! Logo - Cutting letters on CNC - Cutting logo on the CNC - Edges filled with spot putty - Letters ready for clear coat - Logo with alignment guide - Finished signage in one hallway - Enjoy! David
  4. 2 points
    Thanks guys for reaffirming my thoughts. I actually really like the fabric that is on the one I'm copying, it also should fit into our color scheme. I esp like there is a hint of blue in the fabric.
  5. 2 points
    At one point in time, we had a fellow on here that knew more than the rest but he outgrew us. Now we’re just a bunch of newbies with some, more knowledgeable than others. Probably a bit understated. Welcome to the forum.
  6. 2 points
    Welcome, Michael! All the above is true. We work very hard to keep this forum family and newbie friendly. I would go so far to say that this forum has more genuine knowledge, and less flaming baloney, than any other forum I have visited. As for questions, ask away! The answers are just as likely to help one of us as you.
  7. 2 points
    I used cedar planks for a kitchen island counter and covered it in epoxy. I did 3 coats at 1 ounce per square foot to seal the wood and then 3 ounces per square foot for the final coat. The epoxy gives off a tiger's eye effect, if you ever seen a tigers eye rock
  8. 2 points
    Ditto the above. If you check everyone's profile you're gonna find that we all started sometime. And if you look at the questions being asked you're gonna find they are often being asked by someone who is "experienced".
  9. 1 point
    Hello, First let me just say thanks in advance for any advice given. I also want to say I am NOT your master woodworker so please keep your criticism to a minimum. I have never had anyone to show me how to do these things and have had to learn this stuff on my own so I am doing this by trial and error. I have made mistakes and spent money that I wish I hadn't spent but I learned along the way so I guess it was worth it. I have been trying to setup a workshop to do small projects in for some time now. I have a few tools and I am to the point where I feel like I am about out of space and I have everything I think I need (I know that's never possible). This is what I have right now as far as larger tools. I do have mostly all Dewalt FlexVolt power tools. I think my favorite is the track saw by far. Grizzly 14" Band Saw G0555X - w/ Bear Crawl Cub Mobile Base T28922 Grizzly 14" Drill Press G7944 w/ Bear Crawl Heavy-Duty Mobile Base T28000 Grizzly 6" x 48" Belt/9" Disc Combo Sander G1014ZX w/ Bear Crawl Cub Mobile Base T28922 (that is being delivered tomorrow) Kreg Router Table System w/ Porter Cable 7518 router (Advice received from here on the router). I currently have a Dewalt Table Saw and Miter Saw built into my workbench but I was considering buying a Grizzly table saw. This is where I was looking for some advice. There are 2 things I want to get which are dust collection and the table saw. I was looking at the following models and was wondering if I could get some feedback. I can get the mobile base for the Grizzly saw and keep everything mobile to suit my needs due to space. I would take the top off the bench and just replace it with new wood so I would have a nice work top space. I have other solutions for Miter Saw so that is not an issue. The biggest thing I need right now though is dust collection because no matter what I do I spend a lot of time cleaning up due to the dust and I try to keep it very clean so my wife is not getting anything upstairs. I feel like I spend more time cleaning than I do working. Table Saw - Grizzly G0691 - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Long-Rails-Riving-Knife/G0691 Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Grizzly G0861 - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-2-HP-Portable-Cyclone-Dust-Collector/G0861 I don't know much about either one of these but I have been reading about both. The problem is I have read so many mixed reviews and input from different sources and by time I get finished I am so confused by what to do I am no further ahead than I was when I started. The next day I start right over again reading more articles and reviews and it just turns into this cycle of "what to do and believe".
  10. 1 point
    I would want it better than that, especially if the blade is squeezing towards the fence. I wouldn't want over a couple of thou the other way, but like dead on. I probably should add that I don't use a splitter, or any other such device.
  11. 1 point
    I do the same thing my rip is their glue line rip and I have been real happy with the freud blades. I have had the ones I have now for 5 years and only sharpened them once. Keep them clean and don't abuse them and they hold up well If I were to get a combo I would probably be looking at the Woodworker II.
  12. 1 point
    Air has weight, the more air you move the more weight you move. It takes more power to move more weight. With a fixed pipe size to increase air flow you have to increase the velocity of the air. Increasing the velocity of the air will also increase it's inertia and the inertia of particles within the air. If the air and particles hit a curve they are flung towards the outside. This is the mechanic that separates the dust from the air. Air is lighter so it's easier to redirect that air to the center of the cyclone towards the impeller. Dust travels around the outside of the cyclone eventually slowing down and dropping into the bin. If you have a cyclone with a large diameter you need a faster column of air to efficiently separate the dust from the air column. Larger HP cyclones have larger diameter barrels because they can pull a bit faster air through the same size duct. This only works if there are enough ports open to allow that air into the ducts. If you choke down the duct size the motor will draw less amperage yes but the air velocity won't seperate the dust from the air causing the dust to go to the filter stack instead. Efficency in this reagard is not an enegry measurement but a seperation measurement. A 5 hp Clear vue cyclone may separate 40% of 1 micron particles when feed with 400 cfm (a single 4" port). If 3 4" ports are open or 1 6" port that may be closer to 75% separation of 1 micron particles. (this is just an example and not reality but is not drastically far from reality.)
  13. 1 point
    Wegner. Hans Wegner. Sorry.
  14. 1 point
    My style reference post is really lacking on the Danish handcrafted MCM. I've really started to appreciate it now that I'm seeing a lot of makers doing it wrong (in my opinion). If any one has suggestions place them anywhere and I'll try and incorporate them into the post. My big trouble with all the current makers and their designs is everything is to heavy. What i mean but that is all the members are twice as wide as they need to be which gives all the pieces a very heavy and bulky look. A&C can be very delicate furniture if proportions are observed and the heavy look is removed. I've been pushing this lately and have been quite happy with the result. There has also been a lot of MCM furniture that is ruined with a very heavy look. Some renditions of the Hank Chair are a good example of using members that are just too wide IMO. Jory Bringham does both a good job at making delicate looking pieces but at the same time is the worst offender for bulky furniture that could be delicate. So far I have liked some of the furniture from Jens Risom, Hans Wagner, Finn Juhl. I agree with the older styles being far to ornate. Though it does make sense why those styles are ornate. They basically existed to fluff the egos of the Aristocracy. The ornamentation is heavy to try and install a feel and look of extravagant wealth. This may be a bit harsh but it's my opinion on the matter. It's also similar to how i view some of the Greene and Greene furniture. Bmac I think you'd appreciate Hans Wagner. He appears to do a lot of chair work. It's not all woodworking but they are chairs and I know you love chairs. I find irony in that by the way. You spend a lot of time standing to make something that you sit on but in order to make more seating you have to be standing. At what point does your drive to create seating conflict with your desire to be seated?
  15. 1 point
    Flex hose adds drag which is not good so the shorter the better...having said that I have 20' of 6" flex hose to my J/P and never had an issue
  16. 1 point
    I started ownership with an 1860 Colonial. I now own a 1952 Ranch. The styles I gravitated toward were those I could envision in the house. That means I am after dramatically different pieces now. That is highly non-specific, but fitting to frame the conversation.
  17. 1 point
    For my day job I own a sign company. A pretty big one, we are up to 18 employees. So as a sign making professional I can say that for a DIY sign, you done good David. Really good.
  18. 1 point
    Took a little while to catch up on this thread and I'll admit I didn't read it all.. First off, making things flat and square should be the first thing. So, that's either a jointer and a planer or some form of hand tool option to accomplish that. People automatically assume the hand tool options is cheaper but, you also have to consider a sturdy bench with the hand tool option and we all know how much money you could dump into that "sturdy work bench". Dewalt 735 and an 8" jointer should last you just about as long as you want and you won't need to replace them. As for the saw, if you're going to stick with Grizz, I'd be looking at the 1023 but, that's just me. I would also be looking at the new offerings from Harvy. https://www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/ambassador Dust Collection - You mentioned that you wanted it to be mobile. I started this way but, once I installed a little duct work I never looked back. When things are set up and ready to go, you have a lot less tendency to skip that step or task because there's more work involved.
  19. 1 point
    I think, once you get use to your band saw, you’ll be surprised at how of a much load off of your ts it will take. I have the same bs and am pleased. @..Kev, our admin. here has done some extensive research on table saws and I suspect he will chime in soon on his findings. From the looks of your rides, I suspect that you would rather invest in quality and get it right the first time. What are the dimensions of your shop area?
  20. 1 point
    I have two huskies I like leather everywhere lol. Having said that I think cloth would look better on this chair
  21. 1 point
    I agree with fabric. I like leather when it’s walking down the sidewalk!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    The only "furniture" I prefer in leather is a saddle. I would vote for a high quality fabric.
  24. 1 point
    Agreed, they are nice & nicely priced. And of course they leak, but only a miniscule amount. I seriously doubt there are totally leak proof ones, unless maybe if you spent a fortune on them.
  25. 1 point
    Yes...you'll probably need a coat epoxy afterwards...
  26. 1 point
    Balancing cost size and portability (https://www.oneida-air.com/dust-collectors/1-5-hp-mini-gorilla-cyclone-dust-collector) I really feel the dust gorilla meets the categories. It won't be a forever dust collector. You'll get to a point when you'll need something better and you'll know it when that happens. The Oneida collector is not that much more than the Grizzly that you linked with 1 HUGE difference a HEPA filter. You've mentioned that your in a basement which means dust is probably a factor (also your pictures show immaculately clean work spaces). The grizly collector has a 1 micron filter. That's going to leave a fine film on every surface when you use it. I have an Oneida collector in my shop and their filters are good (as are wyn and clear vue but they don't offer the gorilla i liked above). I take that back the dust gorilla really could be the last collector you ever buy. It'd probably meet my needs if I had a smaller shop.
  27. 1 point
    My advice for a table saw is get the SawStop. I had the Grizzly first but getting the SawStop was a night and day difference. In addition to the safety feature, it is simply the best built, best designed, best supported piece of equipment I have ever owned (and that includes tools from Powermatic, Laguna, Grizzly, Jet, etc.). I know there are many who feel that SawStop is all hype or don't like how they came to be a major player in the field, but as an amateur woodworker who can use all the help I can get to do decent quality work, the SawStop has been worth every penny. I also agree with the advice on the planer and jointer. Both of mine are Grizzly with helical heads and I have been VERY happy with them. See, I am not a Grizzly basher after all! :-) Good luck! Jim
  28. 1 point
    If you work a lot with surface lumber you could easily get away with just a jointer. This will get edges strait which will help for keeping things square and panels flat. Jointer: A simple 6" jointer like (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-48-Jointer-with-Cabinet-Stand/G0814) or (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-46-Jointer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0452Z) would do the job quite well. Helical head will solve the blade replacement hassle but comes with the extra cost. They can be easily sold or bought used if the time comes to upgrade. Planer, DW735x hands down best planer for the money. I wouldn't bother getting anything different unless your milling for own lumber and have to run 400-500 BF through your planer every year, which is a LOT of wood. Dust collector: I'm biased on this. I'd either get the HF unit (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-micron-dust-collector-97869.html) or go all out and get a clear vue (https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/cyclone-bundles/66-cv1800-lh-1p-cyclone-bundle-with-filters.html). I personally don't put much stock in the middle ground. If middle ground is what you seek see below. The unit you linked has a 1 micron filter so it's not going to filter very well and the short cyclone won't separate very well. For under $1,000 you could get the HF unit and a super dust deputy (https://www.oneida-air.com/dust-deputy/dust-collector-kits/super-dust-deputy-5-inch-cyclone-separator),a wyn filter (https://wynnenv.com/products-page/cyclone-filter-pricing/), rikon impeller (https://www.rikonparts.com/product/60-200) and make your own 2 stage that would probably function as good or better. Subtotal cost $709 + tax and shipping. You'll need a dust bin, you could use a metal trash can or 35-55 gallon drum or even a fiber drum. Some odds and ends and a bit of ingenuity are also required. The biggest benefit is an inexpensive unit that can be very flexible for low ceilings. If you prefer to throw money at the problem, which i don't advise but I do understand, the Oneida supercell is a compelling option.
  29. 1 point
    First, that's an awesome shop. Clean organized with a good amount of space. Mobile tools are always good, even if they don't move ever (like mine) it's still helpful when that setscrew falls out on a pulley or some maintenance needs to be done. There are mixed reviews on grizzly tools but over all i look at them as a mediocre tool that gets good support from it's company. This is better than a good tool that receives poor support. It sucks when a problem happens but if the company takes care of you it makes life a lot easier. I had that table saw for a long time. Is it a good saw, no not really but it gets the job done. Personally for your setup I'd fill holes in a tool lineup before you start replacing tools. Look at the types of projects you complete, or the types of projects you want to complete and fill in your gaps that way. From a 500 foot view i see you don't have a jointer or planer. A jointer and planer will make all the difference in the world to keeping projects strait and square. Looking back i don't know how I ever managed making the things I did with out them. If i had to choose between [ dewalt job site saw, jointer, planer] and [ cabinet saw and no jointer and no planer] I'd take the job site saw every single time. (all of my core stock ripping is done on my bandsaw... table saw is for crosscuts, daddos, and tenons) Dust collection gets more important once a jointer and planer is added. My thoughts on DC are get the harbor freight DC and either run it as is and save for a big unit, or mod the HF dc into a 2 stage unit. I planned to mod my old HF DC to a two stage unit but found out It wouldn't save me a ton of money and would take a lot of time and effort that I didn't really want to do. The best part of the HF DC is they can be found used for cheap or if bought new can be sold easily and recover a good potion (60%-70%) of the initial cost. Those short cyclones don't separate well and honestly I'd recommend getting a single stage unit with a bag and save all the extra money. The cyclone is so small they don't end up accomplishing much.
  30. 1 point
    You can get colored leather, some of the aniline dyed leather is quite color fast and should hold it's color well over time. My thought is that fabric is the better choice, though this would probably depend on the surroundings. The style and era of furniture is well suited to a fabric.
  31. 1 point
    Duh, Without questions, there are no answers. There's not one of us here that isn't still learning something from someone on this forum. This place is different than most. It's here to provide "real" help for those that ask for it. Not here to pick apart anyone's project, unless they are asked to. This is a "learning" forum. you learn from us, and we learn from you. As far as I know there is only one rule that's true. "Without pictures, it didn't really happen" Welcome, and jump right in we're friendly!
  32. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums and don't be intimidated at all. To advance your skills you want to hang around and learn from those that have "been there done that". You won't advance your skills hanging around people that have the same skills as yours. Everyone here is still learning, each is just learning at a different level. Ask all the questions you want.
  33. 1 point
    Welcome! I don't think it's possible to as too many questions. The best answers come from posts that are explained well and provide pictures/drawings. There is a lot of good information here. These guys are generally responsible for most of what I know.
  34. 1 point
    I'm building a book case for a friend out of walnut so I had an ogee bit I haven't used in... I don't know how long any way I'm getting multiple pieces out of a wide board then cutting off individual pieces, rinse and repeat. Well my first attempt was less than desirable burn marks, small chips etc. so I went back into my memory and remembered the old add tape to the fence trick run the board through remove the tape, run the board through again for a clean up pass I still wasn't happy and was thinking about going to town for a better ogee bit (25 mi. round trip) screw that so my new plan was 2 layers of tape to the fence and one layer on the table I ran the board through took one layer of tape off, ran board through took second layer off, ran it through then took the tape off the table (you guessed it) ran the board through one last time a little light sanding I got a very crisp profile, no burning and, no chipping ripped it off on the table saw and did this 5 more times ( I made a couple extra in case I screw up ). Anyway I got some quality trim with a old crappy ogee bit with the old blue tape trick on steroids.
  35. 1 point
    I was thinking maybe shoot them a phone call or email and see if they have some for internal purposes. I'd just say I was an art student studying Maloof's later work.
  36. 0 points
    Watch out for coop he is actually wise and knowledgeable but hides it behind a good sense of humor and wry wit.