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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/29/20 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Thank you all for your input. I stopped b y Rockler and bought the Freud SD208. I j ust don't use it often enought to justify the more expensive model. It looks kinda scary sitting on the arbor since my old set had many more teeth on the chippers so that it looked more solid. First thing I noticed is that the spacers and shims are steel and that there was a real solid feel when I tighened the arbor bolt and the blades and chippers did not rotate with the wrench. My old set had aluminum and plastic shims that tended to slip as the bolt was tightened. Also the blades and chipppers slid onto the arbor smoothly. The blades and chippers in the old set were hard to get on and harder to get snug against each other. I fired it up for a few seconds and it didn't explode. Checked the bolt and it was fine. Did one test cut and it cut like butter - 13/16 wide and 1/4" deep in hard maple. I'll cut the dados in the sides of my drawers tomorrow. I am going to sleep happy now. Thanks again.
  2. 4 points
    This is a replacement jig for cutting splines I made, the old one was not the best and I hope this one will serve me better. Just plywood and MDF I had around, T-Track and white oak runners. Adjustable stops left and right. Any comments on improvement or construction are welcome, not crazy about the MDF but it’s what I had around, should have been Baltic birch, thanks for looking
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
    I have been using resin in turnings for a little over a year now. You will need a few things. (surprise) A pressure pot is necessary to remove the bubbles, you tube has a bunch of videos on making one from a paint pressure pot. I bought the pot and fittings at Harbor Freight for about $80, you will also need a compressor. . Next you will need the resin, and there are a ton of choices. To limit my confusion, I bought Alumilite clear, which seems to be very popular among turners and is easy to use. I bought the stuff that has a 7 minute open time, my next batch will be the 12 minute, being a newbie with the stuff I don't like being rushed. You will need a scale, again I bought mine a HF. The last need, is tints and Pearlex powder. I bought the tints from Alumilite and found the Pearlex at Michaels. You can buy the molds or just make your own. They make a "special" release agent to spray the molds, but I just use some Teflon dry lube that I have for my table saw. I use whatever plastic jar or PVC I have laying around, cut it to fit the pressure pot and go. I use carbide tools for the most part, but you can work the resin with any sharp tools. It is easy to turn. Turning does make a mess! I have my DC setup with a scoop attached to the banjo of my lathe, the resin is light enough that a lot of the chips get sucked right in, but it is a lathe so expect a mess. Sanding can get involved, and of course there is a lot of expensive, and depending on who you listen to, mandatory, products to polish the resin. But again I make my own, and bought an inexpensive polish at the auto parts store and I am pleased with the results. As @Mark J said the resin is pricey but depending on the sized of the project it does go along way. If you use "filler" wood, that will be turned away it reduces the amount of resin needed. Last year my wife asked me to make some buttons for one of her projects, I made some from scrap wood, but she wanted color. So I went into our yard picked up some pinecones and with the resin made some buttons. That was a mistake! She showed them to her quilting group and the orders immediately poured in. I ended up making arraignments with a local quilt store and put them up for consignment. At $5 apiece I made all of my initial investment back in less than two weeks, and now I can't keep up with the demand.
  5. 4 points
    That 2” clearance was to see into the car next to you but those days are over. They don’t wear skirts anymore.
  6. 3 points
    I’ve never quite understood the widespread dislike of in-laws, but maybe my wife and I are just lucky that we both really like and get along with our in-laws.
  7. 2 points
    Looks like the intention is to kill reflections. I always wondered about this with in-wall speakers. If you set a loudspeaker right up against a wall the soundwaves are going to radiate off the back wall and get really boomy. That's why floor standing speakers you usually bring them out a few feet into the room. So what he's done by building boxes to push the in-wall speakers out away from the wall a bit, and then filling the gaps between them with acoustic sound dampening boards should alleviate that problem. I actually started woodworking back in college(1990 or so) by building speakers. Used to subscribe to Speakerbuilder magazine, and was having all kinds of fun. But I was never very good at it, it was just for fun. A lot of the technology has changed since 1990 though... it's really amazing now. I have a basement theater, but it's just a 55" lcd tv with some floorstanding and wall hanging speakers i bought back in 2002. My wife would like it if I did something that was built into the walls and this whole project has given me some insight into how I might do that. I've had the tweeter blow out on my center channel twice since I owned it, and if it happens again rather than fix it again I might just replace it all.
  8. 2 points
    I'm really good at setting them but hit very few Having said that my goals are typically stretch goals and I rarely stress about them, to old for that anymore lol. For me, on a project like this or a piece of furniture, its more about getting it right then getting it done quickly. Like everyone there comes a time when I say its good enough but pushing a deadline is never going to keep me from remaking something I am not proud of. So the cloth panels themselves are purely aesthetic its what's under them that make the difference. If you've followed from the beginning you know the theater is basically a room inside a room which keeps the sound from traveling throughout the house. The yellow OC703 panels, the FSK (Silver tape), and the paper you see around the room are all about the acoustics within the room. The Yellow panels are absorption to keep sounds from bouncing all over the place, the FSK tape is at primary reflection points designed to help get the sound to the main listening position, not sure what the paper does but the consultant said to do it so I did . If I did it right when you are watching a movie/tv it will feel like a much bigger space then it really is and the sound will envelope you...we shall see but I am getting really really excited to find out
  9. 2 points
    I was just going to ask if you would be done by Sunday... this looks like "no" is the answer. Looks like you came close though. Are the cloth panels to help the sound in the theater or help keep it from getting to other parts of the house.
  10. 2 points
    You might consider making your curly book matched.
  11. 2 points
    Couple options. Put painters tape where you plan to cut, make sure it's adhered well. Set your blade height to 1/16" and do a climb cut to score the veneer on the bottom raise the blade the rest of the way to finish the cut normally. Reference : https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/tearout.html The painters tape option is the best though.
  12. 1 point
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 1 point
    This space is looking great. It's reminding me that I need to make a pair of surround speakers for the living room soon. Gotta finish these dining chairs first. Though the chairs are moving along nicely right now.
  14. 1 point
    I don't do deadlines either.
  15. 1 point
    This looks like a great jig for boxes. Now you need to make one with a 7 degree cut so you can do dovetail splines... .
  16. 1 point
    Paul will give you the main reason, but it's to make the room look freakin' awsome.
  17. 1 point
    I have seen these spline jigs overly elaborate in they're design but I think you nailed it on this one. It looks super simple but it should perform well. I think this will be going in my "borrow that idea" file. I'll probably us all baltic birch though.
  18. 1 point
    I'm wondering the same. I don't know much about audio systems, What does the cloth do between the speakers?
  19. 1 point
    Very impressive work Paul that’s going to be a great space, the goal line is in sight, pun intended
  20. 1 point
    Bottom line is I will be watching it on the big screen with sound but I may be working on the room at the same time LOL Here are some current pics Running one of the sub power plugs behind the panel Next I cut the face plate and mounted the fan controllers for the supply and return vents. These are used to keep air moving in what is ultimately a sealed room when the HVAC system is not running. Making progress on the cloth frames two and 1/3 walls complete Then moved to the screen wall speaker placement. First I had to make the cutouts into the backer boxes, then installed poly-fill, and finally made some angled frames for the left and right speakers. ..and this week working on the last cloth frames Up yet this week install front speakers, wire everything up in the rack, install screen material on frame, make sure everything works by Sat night, Sunday work on the room while watching the game
  21. 1 point
    Wow that's a fancy one Nice job Dave!
  22. 1 point
    Ok, so more important to run the bracing perpendicular to the joint. Yeah, we had it laying flat on a table and I had 3 1x2 strips under it to help keep it solid. Hadn’t thought much about the logistics of hanging it other than the thing weighs a ton! I like the idea of a French cleat between the bracing strips. Should distribute the weight nicely and allow for multiple studs to hold it.
  23. 1 point
    Just catching up on this project. Fantastic and inspiring work as always, Derek. Thank you for sharing. On this cut, I always hear the guys at the lumber mill call this a straight line rip cut. They have a special saw that is purpose built for this function, but the principle is the same.
  24. 1 point
    I’m not sure what that is. I do have a 428 in my Shelby. Will that help?
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    My welds look worse than a lava flow from a volcano.
  27. 1 point
    If you want to come in, you can weld them on the rollers. I could use a good ole country boy’s help.
  28. 1 point
    Chip, a friend of mine turns a lot of pens and duck calls. He uses Alumalite heat-cured resin and a vacuum pot to infuse the wood. IIRC, he doesn't require a mold, as he isn't filling large voids. He told me that he pulls the piece out of the vacuum pot and wraps it in foil, then bakes it at 200 degF for a while, maybe 20 minute (?). Then it is cured and turns as described above. If you want more details, I can ask him tomorrow.
  29. 1 point
    Not me, but I think @Gary Beasley said he'd done some. Also look up Keith Lackner on You Tube, he's well known. I can't remember if you use carbide tools, but I understand that resin turns better with these. Also, gotta tell you, resin ain't cheap.
  30. 1 point
    Not to mention that the sliding doors are FAR more convenient with little kids.
  31. 1 point
    In my shop it sits under my lumber rack in a separate part of the garage. It is a rough saw for cutting down long boards and I never cut anything important with it. Not a part of my work flow on a project once the board is brought into the shop. Having said that I know others have them dialed in and use them in their workflows differently and both situations can work for you.
  32. 1 point
    I have a good miter saw, the Bosch Glide 12 inch, and if all I need is a good miter I use it. But for the really, really accurate stuff I use the 5000 because it can be set to a + or - 1/2 degree anywhere on the compass. I find myself using the miter saw less and less. I probably use it more to cut scraps to lengths for my smoker, shop projects, making jigs and cutting trophy columns for the awards I make then anything else.
  33. 1 point
    As a former professional driver, I honestly believe that 70% of the people driving on America's roads, should have their licenses forcibly taken from them. Those people are not aware enough to know how dangerous they are to the others that share the road with them.
  34. 1 point
    I can't believe how many years I worked with out a good bench and now I think it is the first thing you should build in the way of shop furniture. The chairs are looking good.
  35. 1 point
    Basically just bought a tree and filled up the minivan. Black Walnut!
  36. 1 point
    Now that’s an idea worth considering. Imagine me flying a drone. “Houston, we have a problem”!
  37. 1 point
    Rethinking this, I would definitely sell the saw separate, you just bought a new SS. I would keep for an outfeed table and miter saw station. I don't know how hard it would be to modify. If it is to hard, you should have everything you need to build a top notch outfeed table.
  38. 1 point
    I think $500 to $550 is fair for the saw mounted in the bench. It's going to be harder to sell it as a package than separate. I think it's worth the try though. I just sold a saw similar to that to a friend who then made a setup similar to this. It'd have been an easy sell to him. I will also echo trying your local woodworking guild/organization. If you aren't getting any attention at the price you'd like I'd keep the bench and sell the saw separate. Even though you may not use the bench as is, there is a lot of good material there you can use and modify to make into a pair of mobile material carts or a mobile assembly table. I personally have a hard time selling things I've made as I tend to modify them for use in a different way as my shop evolves.
  39. 1 point
    One thing is for sure, if you post pictures in your ads of the bench, don't post any with the miter saw in place if your plan is to keep it. Just mention in the ad that there is a built in spot for a miter saw.
  40. 1 point
    Yeah I know but I wanted to make one myself too because I like the idea of having a boxed in type style sled also. Never made one before so figured I would try.
  41. 1 point
    UPS man was good to me today. Look what he dropped off. The Incra CC sled and the Supercell DC system. I started making a crosscut sled which is on the back on the workbench. I started working on it yesterday and just finished the front and back fence pieces. They are all glued up and ready to be cut to length. I need to make my cuts for the runners and then buy those. I am going to put some T Track on it so I figured I might as well order a couple miter bars and then not have to worry about them shrinking or swelling.
  42. 1 point
    I've been away from the workshop for a month, travelling around a few cities in Austria and Germany, as well as Prague. It was a good trip, but it's great to be home. The current build was on hold. This is the entry hall table my niece asked me to build ... ... and this is where we left off last time - ready to fit the first corner ... Past builds: Part 1: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece1.html Part 2: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2.html Today we shall put the complete case together. What I wish to focus on is the dovetailing. Not just any dovetailing, but mitred through dovetailing in unforgiving hardwood (here, Fiddleback Jarrah). Of all the commonly used dovetails, I consider the through dovetail more difficult than the half-blind dovetail. Why ... because two sides are exposed against the single face of the half-blind. In my opinion, by mitering the ends, the level of complexity is tripled .. at least. Not only are there three faces now, but each needs to be dimensioned perfectly, otherwise each is affected in turn. This is more difficult than a secret mitred dovetail, where mistakes may be hidden. I have posted before on building the mitred though dovetail, and it is not my intention to do this again. Instead, what I wish to show are the tuning tricks to get it right. This is the model of the tail- and pin boards … In a wide case, such as this, it is critical that the parts go together ideally off the saw or, at least, require minimal adjustment. The more adjustments one makes, the more the dovetails will look ragged. Tail boards are straightforward. Let’s consider this done. Once the transfer of tails to pins is completed, the vital area is sawing the vertical lines … well, perfectly vertical. I use blue tape in transferring the marks. The first saw cut is flat against the tape. Note that the harder the wood, the less compression there will be, and so the tail-pin fit needs to be spot on. Where you saw offers an opportunity for ensuring a good fit: if you hug the line (edge of the tape), you get a tight fit. If you encroach a smidgeon over the line, you loosen the fit slightly. Saw diagionally, using the vertical line as your target … Only then level the saw and complete the cut … I do not plan to discuss removing the waste. That was demonstrated in Part 2. So, the next important area is the mitre. These are scribed, and then I use a crosscut saw to remove the waste about 1mm above the line on both the tail- and pin boards … Now we are ready to test-fit the boards … Mmmm …. not a great fit … … even though the mitres at the sides are tight … The problem is that the mitres are fat, and the extra thickness is holding the boards apart … Even sawing to the lines here is likely to leave some fat, which is why it is a waste of energy to try and saw to the line in this instance. It needs to be pared away with a chisel, using a 45-degree fixture. As tempting and logical as it seems to pare straight down the guide … … what I experience is that the chisel will skip over the surface of the hard wood rather than digging in and cutting it away. What is more successful is to pare at an angle, and let the corner of the bevel catch the wood … This is what you are aiming for … Okay, we do this. And this is the result … Not bad. But not good enough. There is a slight gap at each side, quite fine, but evident close up. The source is traced to the mitre not being clean enough. It is like sharpening a blade – look for the light on the edge. If it is there, the blade is not sharp. If there is a slight amount of waste on the mitre, the case will not close up. To clear this, instead of a chisel – which is tricky to use for such a small amount – I choose to use a file. This file has the teeth on the sides ground off to create “safe” sides. Try again. The fit is now very good. I will stop there. So, this is the stage of the project: the case is completed. This is a dry fit … One end … The other … The waterfall can be seen, even without being smoothed and finished … Regards from Perth Derek
  43. 1 point
    Today my wife and I spent a couple hours in the theater deciding on screen size and material so that I can order the screen material and finish the room. We are going with a Constant Image Width screen, that will make the 16:9 (first pic) about 130" diagonal and the 2:35:1 about 126" I am looking forward to watching the this years Superbowl on the big screen
  44. 1 point
    We are building a version of this hall table ... We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards .. A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should. I began this session by turning the legs ... The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed. The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc. Once done, you can square up on a jointer .. ... rip to width ... ... and cross cut ... Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ... Packed away for the night ... When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ... My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) .. Completed side panels ... It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html). These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ... Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ... Saw the pins ... Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides. Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ... Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ... Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ... The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding. Now you can fretsaw away the waste. Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ... Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs To create the mitred ends, first mark ... ... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy. And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ... So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm Regards from Perth Derek