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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    This came in the mail. And no, as a matter of fact I can't offer any explanation as to why I bought it.
  2. 2 points
    You have a few options for this joint and builders of MCM furniture used differing methods; First, the easiest is using the Domino for this type of joint. The MCM builders 60 years ago did not have this technology, but it is commonly employed now for this type of joint. Second, floating tenons. Morley uses these I believe. Third, dowels. Fourth, screws and glue with a plug covering the screw hole. Here is an example of this type of joint, attaching a chair back to a leg using the domino system; Once it's glued the piece is sculpted and shaped so they two pieces flow and look blended. This is what a joint can look like after sculpting, it looked like the previous pic before sculpting;
  3. 1 point
    I am a geek by trade and profession, or was for 25+ years. Now I'm just a regular geek, no longer my profession. I'm a woodworker with a full shop of tools - much better! But I have rarely been one to jump on and must have the latest, greatest software/hardware/toys, etc. It's fairly normal for me to keep software up to date, at least as it relates to operating systems, but not necessarily apps and production software. I'm still using MS Office 2007! Hey, it works... if it ain't broke don't fix it, right? So after I cut a couple of Longworth chucks this morning it seemed like a good time to see what versions I was running of Mach4 and ESS (Ethernet SmoothStepper). Turned out it's been a while since I moved to newer builds of these two critical pieces for running the CNC. The Mach4 build was 3804 and I installed it a year ago. It's not even listed on the FTP site now! There have been dozens of builds released since then. Same with the ESS; I installed version 193 in May 2017. That was before I even finished building the CNC - old stuff! LOL! So I checked the Warp9 website and the newest ESS build version is 253 and they recommend using it with Mach4 build version 4322. There are newer releases but this is the latest Mach4 version that ESS has been paired with for compatibility. The updates went smoothly except for one minor detail - Go To Zero no longer worked in Mach4. I could force it to work by manipulating some mapping and motor assignments but I really didn't want to do that. So I dug into the Lua programming and modified the code attached to that button and now everything works as it should. Anyway, it was an interesting exercise and now I have the latest and greatest build versions, or close enough for now. David
  4. 1 point
    Generally you wouldn't build a cleat for each individual tool, normally it would be designed to hold numerous tools and in this case you would have the weight of the other tools or items holding it in place when one is being removed.
  5. 1 point
    This should keep the fiancé happy also.
  6. 1 point
    If you have a problem with cleats coming off when removing a tool, the first thing I would look at is the angle of your cleat. I would think that you used an angle that was to shallow to work properly. If the angle is correct you would need a straight up motion to have the cleat come off.
  7. 1 point
    I just pick up a copy of Marc's Essential Joinery. First glance it look like a great book. I look forward to spending some time going thru it. Jeremy
  8. 1 point
    There are a lot of companies that make good sandpaper disc.some last longer, some more agressive some better at the start, some paper some not. All are in general are good. How much you spend per disc and what's expected will define the meaning of happy. Over all I buy VSM When ever possible. I usually buy self sticking but will add a velcro to one of the sanders for use with Surf-prep sandpaper...
  9. 1 point
    Glad it worked for you. We're mulling adding the Avid rotary axis which will require moving to M4. We're currently on M3. We'll keep both until we know M4 is working right. From what I've read, the newer M4 is much more stable and has some nice features.
  10. 1 point
    I was in a cabinet shop yesterday and I saw the windows 98 pipes screen saver on one of their machines.... So i think your more up to date than some. Man just seeing that screensaver brought me back in time 15 years... uhh 22 years.
  11. 1 point
    While @RichardA is right, there are others here that might be able to help. Why don't you post some more detail about what you are looking for? Starting a new thread might net you better results.
  12. 1 point
    Maybe you should post a picture of the actual piece you have, might give people here a better idea of methods you could use, or be honest with you that you may want something that is not possible.
  13. 1 point
    I would bet that the bar cabinets will feel more like real shop time too.
  14. 1 point
    Commercial veneers can be extremely thin, so keep the sanding to a minimum. Use a gentle chemical stripper and patience to remove the existing finish, and beware that even that may soften the glue. You've been warned. As for re-coloring, burl gets its beauty from the swirling grain, so I would use an oil-based stain, flood it on and wipe it back almost immediately to get contrast between the grain pores and smooth wood.
  15. 1 point
    Finally got the joinery cut for all the back rest parts. After batching out the joinery I used the smoothing planes to clean up all the parts. There was a bit of hand sanding required on the curved profiles but nothing major. All the little details on the back rest are quite tedious and i probably had 20 hours just in smoothing the legs, and other parts. I also made a LARGE pile of plane shavings. Glueup went smoothly for all of the chair backs. The last one gave me the most troubles but it wasn't anything major. I have 3 sweeping left and 3 sweeping right. I figure this will tie the asymetrical chairbacks together well when they are set around the table. I must have done a decent job at making the parts uniform. They next together quite well. Next up I have to figure out the joinery for the angled side rails and then figure out a good way to streamline the joinery for the side rails front legs, and front rail. I also need to decide if i want to do a lower rail between the front and rear legs or not.