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  1. Horton Brasses is another good resource. Maybe not the same precision as Brusso, but a much wider selection and a bit lower price.
    4 points
  2. An alternate retirement hobby than rug hooking for the ladies.
    2 points
  3. They will be in physical form, no PDF. I can trace my patterns on a large sheet of paper and mail them to you no problem. I'll also be happy to point out the joinery I used and where.
    2 points
  4. I do. That book has some good points, worthy of following, but it is awfully long winded. I usually start by dividing by 5, or 6, and see how it looks. Even simple things benefit from such design. The shutters that these replaced (they weren't originals) looked "clunky", as was the most used phrase when people I asked commented. These were designed with dividers. I forget the proportions, but stile width was such a proportion of the overall width, as were the rails, and width of the bevels on the raised panels. It was simply drawn, on the outfeed table, on brown builders paper,
    2 points
  5. I just made a standard sander till I can get a deal on a oscillating ssnder... thx..
    2 points
  6. He is going to cooper it and then us his jointer like a hand plane to smooth the surface... nah, he's probably to smart to us a jointer in that fashion.
    2 points
  7. Today I travelled into the vast watelands of West Tennessee, near the Kentucky frontier, in search of a hardwood dealer that deigns to open on Saturday. After almost 2 hours of driving, losing GPS signal at least 4 times, and following "roads" that bore more resemblance to a slug trail, we finally located the place. 65 bf of red oak and 30 bf of cherry are bound to become something I'm calling the 'Toadstool Table'. Project journal coming soon, to a forum thread near you...
    2 points
  8. Quick google search, there is such a thing, you just make the selection in settings. There is no cost, but it doesn't add any enticing features for me and there is no support, either. Also, you need a Facebook page, which is a non-starter.
    1 point
  9. I've been reading through "By Hand and Eye" and I am curious as to how many of you actually design using proportions?
    1 point
  10. It sounds to me like "Social Media" isn't quite so social.
    1 point
  11. Instagram issues are almost always resolution scale issues. Crop to square 1:1 and likely your issue goes away.
    1 point
  12. Impressive. Have seen her on another similar video. Noticed- no hearing protection or face shield while turning.
    1 point
  13. Yes, operable. They'e raised panels on both sides. That is the second floor, and the window sills are below knee level. Each shutter is about 2" wide. You were risking your life to lean out, and operate regular shutter dogs, so I designed, and blacksmithed those hooks, so you don't have to lean out to operate the shutters. The latches are real ones from the mid 19th Century. The shutters stay closed most of the time. The house is only open to the public a couple of days in Spring, and from a little before Christmas through new years. Opps Picture was from when I was redoing th
    1 point
  14. Well I ran the saw blade up and down and it was zinging as it rubbed a little but quickly started to quiet down. It still rubs a tad So I don’t know what to think. I wish I had a more precise way to measure right now but I will have to wait. On another note the new DC works great and I am real happy with it.
    1 point
  15. Well it sounds like there are many clubs out there. This one does offer additional memberships for carving but I am not going to do that part at this point. They have shop hours 7 days per week and members can use the shop as long as there is a instructor present.
    1 point
  16. So I found a woodworkers club in my area and I didn’t even know anything like this was out there. I am not trying to advertise so I hope this doesn’t create any issues but I was curious if there are clubs like this in other areas as well? If so do any of you belong to these types of clubs? I have decided I am going to join for several reasons but mainly because they have several courses they offer to help you learn different things and for me it will help me learn more about everything I am using and how to use it properly.
    1 point
  17. I sold the Powermatic. My Jet has been a reliable tank for the 15+ years I've had it, and there's really not much I don't like about it. I bought the Powermatic for $400 last year and sold it for $1800 this year.
    1 point
  18. Finally got back from my trip, unleashed the tape and paint, and although my dark green was old and solidified, I mixed some flat black with medium green and did this to the Condor Next comes the antennae, external protuberances, engines/props and decals
    1 point
  19. So, I've had the HF DC for like 15 years and mine has gone through several "modifications", but I can tell you the three best things I did were to 1) add a pleated filter, which you did 2) Add a Super Dest Deputy 3) Swap out the impeller. Rikon makes a 12" impeller that is a direct replacement. When I did this, I also cut my inlet hole bigger, to 6" (so I guess that's 4 things). It is a totally different machine now. I run it to my SupMax 19/38 drum sander, 15" planer and 12" joiner and leave all the blast gates open.
    1 point
  20. Most likely yes. Sounds to me as if the elevation trunion, which should move in a plane parellel to the blade and perpendicular to the table, is not moving perpendicular to the table, since the rubbing varies with height. I don't have a sawstop, so no direct knowedge, but perhaps there is some adjustment their service tech can suggest. While it doesn't sound dangerous, a cut that does not remain perpendicular as the blade hight changes will lead to some very frustration glue-ups...
    1 point
  21. Nope. That's perfect. I just normally use the left slot for alignment because that is the one I use my miter gauge in. This test basically tells us that the blade is rotating on a consistent plane. That is, it is not wobbling on the arbor or the arbor is not wobbling in the ways, etc. that's good. Back to the concern that Mark grabbed on to; why the change when the carriage/trunnion height changes? Again, we have to be careful that we are not jumping to fix something that is not really a problem. I've seen so many unhappy people who tear into their jointer tables when a simple fen
    1 point
  22. If the blade seems to rub the insert on and off at regular intervals as it rotates, that may indicate the disappointing possibility of a blade, or perhaps an arbor, that is bent. I would remove the blade and check its flatness, and examine the arbor flange for any debris that might have prevented the blade from seating properly. If you have a dial indicator, check that the arbor and blade run true.
    1 point
  23. Learning is never bad. That's one of the reasons this forum exist's. We learn, we teach, and we all grow.
    1 point
  24. I thank you for this - I was just curious how you found that page since I thought that I had not provided a link to it in an index. It is very out-of-date. Kind regards Derek
    1 point
  25. Just to throw some real world experience at the math & theory nerds, I have this exact setup and it works great. 2hp HF DC necked up into a Super Dust Deputy which is necked up to 6” PVC main. I have >35’ of main with 4” drops for the planer, table saw and my workbench. I have several 2.5” drops built into the bench and elsewhere in the shop. My highest rise is 6-7 feet. The only place I have any issues is the planer’s flex hose which is the drop closest to the source. It tends to get clogged when I get unusually long shavings. I have good pressure and airflow at even the farthest
    1 point