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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    @treeslayer it’s as done as it’s gonna get. All the bits and pieces together, for the most part
  2. 3 points
    As a reminder, we are building a version of this table ... The plan is to attach the legs, which were made near the start of this project. The attachment method is by inserting the legs into compound angle mortices in a base, which will be fixed to the carcase with a tapered sliding and stopped dovetail. We don't mess about here! It will be necessary to do this over two articles, the first being the base for the legs, which will be dovetailed (tails). The second will be the socket (pins) for the base. Before we begin, I want to mention what I did at the end of the last session. I had replaced the central drawer dividers as the grain ran in the wrong direction. The spacers at the ends also did so, and my response was to cut out half the spacer ... Well, I fretted over the end spacers, and just could not leave them this way. Encouraged by the way the halves had come out cleanly, I removed the remainder and replaced the spacers with correctly grained versions ... OK, onto the leg base ... I spent a while playing with angles for the legs, and finally accepted this (mocked up base) ... I have drilled angled mortices with a brace on a number of occasions. This time I decided to used a drill press and some Japanese Star-M augers, which are specially designed for this type of work (no lead screws). I built a 10 degree ramp for the resultant angle. The auger is 30mm ... [ The tenon is straight, but the mortice will receive a slight reaming, and the tenon will be glued and wedged. This is probably overkill since the weight of the case rests on the legs. These are the bases for the legs. The final prototype is at the rear ... Drilling the bases ... The design requires that the legs do not go over the boundary of the case (to avoid tripping over them) ... This is how they should be ... There was a small dilemma: The base at one side measures 3" from the end ... ... and the other side measures 1/4" further ... I could not work out how this occurred. The angles are the same. In fact, I made another set of bases, and the same error showed up again - exactly the same! So what to do? Actually, the decision was obvious after a little think - make the bases the same. What is more likely to be noticed is if the bases are different distances from the sides. No one will notice a 1/4" difference where the legs hit the ground. So be it. This is one of the bases for dovetailing ... First step is to remove a 2mm taper from one side. The taper will be on the inside of the base, with the outside parallel to the side of the case. Taper line drawn ... Easiest way to do this is with a #604 smoother .. This is the one end of the base ... .. and this is the other end ... mmmm .... 0.39 mm oversize. What to do ...? I'm kidding The dovetails will be 7mm deep. A shoulder was planed with a rebate plane ... The squareness of this rebate is important, so check ... The dovetail is now to be created, and the preparatory step is to colour the outer edge of the rebate with a sharpie. This will warn that the planing does not lower the external edge of the rebate. The dovetail is created with a modified Stanley #79 edge plane ... The fence has a 1:6 ratio wedge ... Details of this dovetail plane here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html The result of planing. That is a 1:6 dovetail marker ... So what are the numbers for the taper? This will give an indication of the accuracy of the joint. One end is 44.12mm ... ... and the other is 46.46mm, which is a difference of 2.34mm. This will work - the pin socket is measured from this (in the same way as dovetails for a drawer. The reason for the 7mm depth? The case is 20mm thick. the dovetail should be about 1/3 of this thickness. I decided to take it to the depth of the rebate for the rear panel ... So, here is one of the completed bases ... And this is where it will be fitted ... Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 3 points
    McGyver never ripped a 3/4” plywood sheet, even with a piece of string, a knitting needle and a stick of Juicy-Fruit.........at night on the side of a mountain during a blizzard......
  4. 2 points
    My son recently got his own apartment and did not have a kitchen table. When my wife and I went over and I looked at the space in his kitchen I “saw” this table in my head. This is the first time I have built a pedestal table and is based off others that I have seen and liked. the wood for the base is from the Water Department, they were doing a project behind where I work, and when finished they had a stack of timbers that were 10’ long and about 9” wide and 5” thick. I asked the project foreman what type of wood they were and he didn’t know but said that they were not pressure treated and I could have a few. the top was a butcher block table top used in a commercial bakery that was closing. The stretcher is a piece of Ash that was given to me a few years ago and has just been sitting against the wall in my shop. i used M & T to attach the base and table supports and used my son’s grandfather’s copper nails instead of dowels. The wedges are walnut. The table is 40” in height because my son wants to use bar stools instead of chairs for seating. i inlaid a 12” x 24” tile in the center of the table so hopefully he will put any hot pans or dishes there instead of on the butcher block so as not to burn the wood top.
  5. 2 points
    When I bought my house it had a single light bulb and garage door already out there but it was only like 10-20 amps, normal for most garages. I figure as long as I have the electricity already out there I would expand the power to the lights and garage door so I could put in 8 florescent shop lights. I ran a second line out to my garage and put in a panel and then ran power all around the shop. the second panel is a must don't really want to go up to the house to reset power every time I trip the breaker. If I go up to the house then Ill stop to get a bite to eat, check my email etc.…. and two hours have gone by. Now with the second line and panel if I trip the power on one of the machines...(happened a few times till the power was wired up the way I wanted it). The lights stay on and I lose power to the walls, take two second to reset it. I didn't want to wander around in black shop trying to find panel completely blind. one of the best things I ever did in my shop. its not super pretty just boxes and pipe mounted straight to the wall. no recessed drywall plugs and its definitely not super professional but pure industrial. hey its a garage wood shop don't get a lot of visitors. I do have one wind up extension cord like what you have that I have in middle of the ceiling so that I can have a line to anywhere like when I'm vacuuming, other then that there is a 4 prong plug ever 4 feet on the walls.
  6. 2 points
    Huh??? You thought something through? That ain't the Coop I know! Imposter!
  7. 2 points
    Ha! I 'solved' the extension cord dilemma by moving into a shed so small that any corded tool I have can reach any outlet along the wall from the center of the room! Table top glue-ups have become very interesting....
  8. 1 point
    A friend asked me to make him a storage unit for his cordless drivers and batteries. I cobbled together a plan from a few internet videos. This is what I came up with. I laid out the dados by clamping the two boards to the table and cut the slots all at once. Whenever I had to move the clamps, I inserted a scrap piece of plywood in the dados between both parts. After all the slots were cut, there were about half that needed a little chisel work. What did I mess up?
  9. 1 point
    It's nice not having to drag power cords around anymore. And a couple of 20 amp circuits really helps.
  10. 1 point
    I’ve made splayed angle-legged plant stands for my wife but they generally scare me. My drill press is a small bench top version with no stops so that an added challenge to my already overtaxed brain. Those are interesting bits; I’d’ve grabbed a Forstner and not given it a second thought. Now I have to look those up! I love the dovetailed leg bases, they’ll be ultra sturdy at the end. I’d use my router table and careful setup as I don’t have a handy little dovetail plane. Looking forward to more progress Derek
  11. 1 point
    The same with most fasteners for me. Our local Ace Hardware does a lot better at selection, and organization than I want to bother with. I just wish I had a good plywood supplier closer than 1-1/2 hours away, one way.
  12. 1 point
    I do my best to store plywood at the.....store. Rarely do I have a full sheet lying around.
  13. 1 point
    thought about that problem is I need something that is smaller then a 30 gallon trash can since It will have to sit behind my lathe on the counter. I am not moving my lathe stand out until I move my shop...….way way heavy. ill need to cut out the bottom and vacuume out the sand before I move that again. need something for a 5 gallon bucket im thinking something like this.
  14. 1 point
    Apparently I'm not the only woodworker interested in precision routing. Take a look at the delivery time on the Incra Precision Router Tool
  15. 1 point
    I've always enjoyed using my router table but I would get frustrated because I wasn't able to make small precision adjustments and because I would consistently get sniped on the outfeed end. I once purchased a higher end router table with a split fence and it was a disaster. I made so many modifications to the table that it wasn't recognizable. I made a number of attempts to make a router fence that could be adjusted in a very precise manner while moving evenly on both sides as it was adjusted. I just couldn't make one that I was satisfied with so I decided that instead of moving the fence to make the adjustments that I would move the router instead. I fabricated a frame made of 1x1x1/8" tubular steel and made a router carriage attached to the frame using premium drawer glides and a basic crank mechanism. The deck is 1 1/2" thick covered with a piece of Formica that I obtained from a local cabinet shop. The fence is made of 3/4" thick extruded aluminum and can be easily removed by loosening two knobs. The dust collection box is attached to the bottom of the router carriage and the box and the drawer fronts are veneered with paper-backed teak that I had leftover in the shop. So far, the trials a promising.
  16. 1 point
    Man that looks fantastic Chip, I’ve really got to up my game on the next one to keep from being embarrassed to show it compared to your work, I have decided on a P-38 but the paying woodworking jobs have to slow down first, well done sir! Going to display it somewhere ?
  17. 1 point
    thanks guys was thinking I would build two of Drew fishers flip top stands he built his with power plugged into it so the machines always have electricity no matter which side you flip up. need to build one for my drum sander/planer and one for my belt sander/oscillating sander. or my oscillating sander when I eventually get one.
  18. 1 point
    I built a flip top for my shop and wisely thought it would be good if I made it big enough for four or more tools. Jointer, planer, sander, grinder and one other I never figured out how to fit It was about 3x5 and too big. It wasn’t handy. The bottom just collected junk, and it was a mess. Long story short, last year I converted it to a permanent top bench, put my new lathe on it, added a drawer for the turning tools and accessories (still pondering a second drawer) and I’m happy with that. So yeah, they can be good, but I tried to save space and ended up taking up space. So, unlike “some” people around here, definitely plan ahead! And for sure it has to be on casters.
  19. 1 point
    You made all the opening one size? I couldnt on mine as there were too many size changes. He sioux pneumatic drill are really small.....
  20. 1 point
    The Mother of Invention comes into play often when you have less hands than you need. I learned that quickly when my right hand man/son, went off to college. Sometimes my wife calls me MacGyver.
  21. 1 point
    They are in the drawer below. One of the few times I thought something thru before constructing.
  22. 1 point
    As I said previously, I'm hoping that I can prevent the snipe that was occurring on the outfeed end of my cuts due to the fence being uneven and the wood falling of the guide bearing. I've been using harder woods lately and I'm planning to use some of the really hard exotic stuff soon. I'm hoping that I can make small progressive cuts quickly and avoid dulling the bits and burning the wood. I may be all wet in my thinking but it was a fun project..!
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies. COOP: I needed help to rip the 4X8 piece of plywood. We ripped it into 4-5 pieces first and then I worked solo. Even with three bodies, it’s a chore to rip a stock sheet of plywood. Thanks for the compliment! WTNH: I used a scrap from the original cut I ended up chiseling the short part of the 90 degrees and it probably won’t show; I just thought that i I had outsmarted the gremlins
  24. 1 point
    One of the best Saturday mornings I spent toward shop improvements. Dad is still using this one. Things I did differently: I made one side of the table removable so I could change t-nut positions when changing machines being used on the stand. I went through 3 interations, dad has always had the DW735 planer and the Ridgid belt/spindle sander.
  25. 1 point
    The times that you moved your clamps, perhaps the plywood you inserted to hold the alignment was a tad undersized, and allowed the work to shift a bit.
  26. 1 point
    I’m thinking that it looks darn good! But yeah, as @Tpt lifementioned, next time cut the dados first, then make your rip cut and as long as your guides are square, you shouldn’t need chisel cleanup.
  27. 1 point
    I’d move to running the dado and then ripping off that part. Things should line up, even if you got one dado off by an eighth.
  28. 1 point
    This little puzzle was pretty fun to make and allowed me to use up some of the magnets from my last project. The goal of the puzzle is to remove the center piece from the tube. You will quickly notice that there isn't much to the puzzle - no buttons, latches or any other obvious locking mechanism. Build Instructions: https://www.instructables.com/id/Tube-Puzzle/ How it Works / Solution: https://youtu.be/N4ID3-wBdik
  29. 1 point
    And I just got another one done, this time out of sycamore.
  30. 1 point
    Latest project at the request of my daughter. Glued up some bradford pear from a tree that grew in our yard. Turned it round then sized it down the full length with caliper while turning, then when it was even a shear scrape down the length and first sanding with sandpaper on a board to take out any unevenness. Sanded to 220 and wiped down with walnut oil.