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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/16/20 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I continued my social distancing. I finished milling the logs from my box elder tree. Some of the boards looked really interesting. It's not the bright vivid red you sometimes get from box elder but I'll make for some interesting character. I estimate i got about 168 BF of lumber out of it. Though only about 50% of it will be usable due to rot or ant damage. Only cost me a gallon of 2 cycle and some bar oil.
  2. 5 points
    OK, photo overload time! This is how I make leveling feet: With the base disk assembled, I tested out the "ballast" retention bolt: One more dry fit, just to be certain.... Now comes the most nervous moment of the project, preparing for glue! Whew! It went together OK. Lots of clear packing tape involved, keeping the staves together. Hhhmmm....pretty sure I didn't starve any joints! While that dried, I worked on edge-profiling the disks for the table top. The upper disk (oak), gets an edge like this: Which I made on the tablesaw, using my Spin-a-ma-jig (c) and the outer plates of my dado stack (for rigidity). The cherry disk gets a bull-nose profile. My router bit has no bearing, and using an edge guide won't work, since the bit cuts away the entire surface of the edge, which would lead to a never-ending spiral toward the center of the circle. This is why the Spin-a-ma-jig was conceived, since even a standard router circle jig is problematic to use when the bit can't be plunged across the edge. For these large disks, I added some temporary bracing to stiffen the jig a bit: And finally, the completed profile will look something like this: I had some issues with splintering on the cherry, which required me to cut another pass. Good thing I started with it over-sized! Anyway, now I need to reduce the diameter of the oak disk a bit, but I ran out of time. Stay tuned, more is soon to come!
  3. 4 points
    Yeah but, he’s gotta fix three of ‘em. ;-) Seriously, I agree, fix if it’s a no-show, replace if it is.
  4. 4 points
    I would probably be making a new piece. Its not so much a matter of how long the fix takes as much as the fact that it is a through mortise and the fix would more then likely show.
  5. 4 points
    Find some off cut material with similar grain, cut to fit the mortise, and glue in. Unless this is up front for the world to see and you can do a decent grain match, nobody will ever know.
  6. 3 points
    A recent bloom from my orchid collection. This one is from Asia. A natural species.
  7. 3 points
    There are slow and quick breaks. The 30 can run a device that peaks higher at startup if it is the slow blow variety. The 60 is typically always a fast blow.
  8. 3 points
    My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney. This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ... I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable. Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive. Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad. The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night. At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall .... The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah. A close up the waterfall on one side ... ... and on the other ... The obligatory dovetail shot ... Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak. Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties. As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ... Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers. Now those drawer handles ... I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ... Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ... The internal bevels around the case ... ... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ... Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open. Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ... Thanks for coming along for the ride. Regards from Perth Derek
  9. 2 points
    Picked up one of these. Seems well-constructed and should outlast the cheaper unit I used before. Cut a 14awg cord and inserted this in-line. A simple install. Strain relief is necessary for both reliability and safety. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WV72DFR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  10. 2 points
    Entry way bench and matching cubby for above it. Some walnut from an estate sale. Took a shortcut with the bench and just did pocket hole assembly. I did some hand work smoothing the top and edges with the 62 & 060 1/2.
  11. 2 points
    A little Bondo will fix that right up. What color you planning to paint this?
  12. 2 points
    i throw those misbehaving pieces out in my yard to punish them and as a reminder to the other boards in my shop this is what could happen to them in case they get any ideas
  13. 2 points
    It's diffusion. There were more mortices on one side than the other so they naturally move to the area of lower concentration.
  14. 2 points
    I'd make a new part that board seems long enough to use on something else in the future. I just put a mortise in the wrong spot this past weekend.... The offending piece is still sitting on my shop floor where i refuse to look at it for having a mortise in the wrong spot.
  15. 2 points
    A couple of extras ... Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 1 point
    Nice install. I assume this is for your dust collector?
  17. 1 point
    No, but a soft wood presses in and fills easily. Plus, a little curve isn't a bad thing. Just round the spline edges with a swipe against the sandpaper and all is well.
  18. 1 point
    Are you in North America, the Europe, those lands down under? What's available will depend on where you live. What you are describing are infeed and outfeed tables. Tom is right, a sliding table would be your best bet. They are intended for breaking down sheet goods. On the cheap and KISS side consider a track saw.
  19. 1 point
    I saw a pair of eagle doing their mating dance 300' up. They hooked up and went into a spinning dive. Then released with plenty of time left. An amazing show.
  20. 1 point
    Most of us are hobbyists, and build such accessories ourselves, especially if they must be custom fitted. If you share what make & model of saw you are using, it might help someone identify a commercial product that you can use. ...and welcome to the forum!
  21. 1 point
    Thanks, all. With what I'm saving us on cabinets, the wife said "get what you want." She may regret that decision.
  22. 1 point
    Yeah there is a lot of march and April left. Though snow this time of year is both fun and enjoyable. Knowing it's going to melt within a month makes it really easy to enjoy.
  23. 1 point
    I don't get how they move so danged far. If it was just a little bit up or down it'd be ok but when it's on the opposite side of the leg!!!
  24. 1 point
    On the table saw using the referencing side against the fence.
  25. 1 point
    Not to take sides, but one of the two above or both, is a good resolve!
  26. 1 point
    They will love it. good work.
  27. 1 point
    The video does show a wall hanging portion. It is quick, as the plans are also for a bench that nests under it. The wall portion can be seen behind the gentleman in the first pic.
  28. 1 point
    Good info. One more interesting bit- theres a 60a breaker as the main in the sub panel, which is identical to the 60a breaker in the house. Who knows why the one in the house blew before the 60a in the garage. I can get by doing electrical work, but am buy no means an expert and I loathe tracking down electrical gremlins. At any rate, the fried tstat is in the garbage and I’m back to using the built-in tstat and unplugging the heater when not in use. I think we are past all the freezing weather so I’ll just run the heater when I’m going to be working in the shop.
  29. 1 point
    I like the design and contrasting bits. Nice!
  30. 1 point
    The inside of doors it a great idea. If you are so inclined, you could make the signature panel separate from the door panel and removable. The rails and stiles are just a big frame. I would rabbet the inside. Then put it together like a picture frame with the signatures visible on the inside. The signature panel could then be removed and displayed in a frame or kept if you did have to part with the sideboard later in life. Inside of drawers would be hard to sign and guaranteed to have something on top of them.
  31. 1 point
    Maybe we should try leaking that live edge slabs is a great breeding ground for Covid-19 viruses. Also that walnut and figured lumber are especially susceptible to harboring the virus....
  32. 1 point
    First off get this book - https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Finishing-Simple-Step-Step/dp/1600850928 Watch the DVD that comes with it then read the book. I have the Fuji Semi Pro 2 and have been real happy with it for all my clear water borne finish projects but I am looking at replacing it with something that has some more power because of some projects that are coming up that involve paint. You really should have something more the a 2 stage machine when it comes to paint. You can only thin paint so much and still have it be a good finish so you need a machine that can pull it through with out thinning to much. You need to do some research on what type of paint you want to use and this will help you with the decision on which level machine you want to go with. You can look at tinted lacquers, These are lighter finishes and will work with a machine of less power. You might want to look at some of the products that General Finishes offer. They have a lot of information on the website and some videos that give a brief comparisons of their products. I would be prepared to spend more then $600
  33. 1 point
    Bmac is absolutely one of the best. With people like hi, there will be more of us - like him!
  34. 1 point
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.