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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/30/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
  2. 5 points
    I finally finished with this project. The top is made from a single piece of butternut and the bottom is made from a block of wood that was labelled English walnut, but turned out to be teak. This was the blank I asked about in the Wood section and @phinds was kind enough to evaluate. @Chestnut, I know you particularly wanted to see the figure, but after turning and sculpting there's almost nothing left of the indented grain pattern. There is a little visible in the right hand pillar of the first two photo's.
  3. 4 points
    Getting ready to make a TP run to Walmart... JK. Still sanding..... 80 grit is my baseline for final shaping of the piece. I find the pencil scribble to be invaluable for ensuring all the surface is covered. Like you guys didn't already know that. I left one little knot in the pedestal, just for character. Unfortunately, the branch stub had fallen out. How do you like my 'glue and sawdust' recreation? Used both oak and walnut dist to get the effect. Now for the really satisfying part. Chemical coloring of the cherry is so quick and dramatic, it blows my mind. The colorant of choice ... The raw cherry, sanded to 120 grit. And immediately after wiping on the Drano: The color continues to darken as the water in the mix evaporates away. I start this after the 120 grit sanding, for two reasons. 1. The water raises the grain, so I like to start a couple grits below final, and ... 2. Following this process gives me about three applications to ensure even coverage, and soak the color in quite deeply. By the final sanding, no color is removed at all. I am going to try this 'lye' on the next red oak project I make, as my tests on scrap pieces yielded a very pleasing caramel color, almost a root-beer brown. Take appropriate precautions when working with corrosive chemicals. Chemical-appropriate gloves and protective eyewear at minimum. A face shield, and chemical smock or apron and sleeves are a good idea. I have tested the effects on cloth, and a small spill isn't going to make you spontaneously combust, but I wouldn't want this stuff on my skin, and especially not in my eyes. Keep clean water handy for a quick wash if it does splash or spill on you.
  4. 3 points
    It looks as though we in the UK will be isolating for at least 6 months. They are reviewing the situation every three weeks. We are just starting week 2 of the run. I work from home so am ok for salary and we are getting food delivered by the supermarkets. More importantly we got a big delivery of wine and beer today. So if the food diminishes we can still get our calories from a liquid intake
  5. 3 points
    Looks too small for a typical "beam compass" type jig, so I vote for @Chestnut's idea of a circle cutout and a guide bushing. Or give me a couple days, I'll rig up something to do it with a tablesaw.....
  6. 3 points
    Visiting my Mother today, at her Assisted Living place. Her 104th Birthday will be April 18th. She was two when she lost family members to the 1918 pandemic. We were after them to stop letting visitors in 3 weeks ago, when we first starting self-isolating ourselves. They did start not allowing visitors for the past couple of weeks. Fortunately, the whole place is on ground level. We kept our distance, and had a nice visit. She's still completely clear headed, and says we just have to do what we need to. She opened her windows, so we could talk through the screen.
  7. 3 points
    Bearing guided core box bit and a circle cutout. That or the circle jig like you mentioned. I'd cut it on the fullsized board before cutting in the profile detail that it shows.
  8. 2 points
    It was supposed to be a droplet of water, but now I tell people it's honey (higher viscosity ). I didn't get the contours of the droplet quite the way I intended--it's only my second finial, so I'm cutting myself some slack. I also was a little off on the outer curve of the base component, and the droplet isn't dropped as far as I would have liked. Here are a couple of 3D drawings showing the goal, but if you excuse the pun, with a lathe things don't always turn out the way you were planning.
  9. 2 points
    Geez I thought you'd already be done! Looking dang good Bmac.
  10. 2 points
    Awesome! That had to be incredibly scary on the lathe!
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    I was thinking the same thing. I just did something similar for a shop project. Cutting it on a full sized board is something I didn't think for your project but it would be a good idea.
  13. 1 point
    As I've been telling people I work with, this is a dynamic situation and subject to change from week to week. We don't know what we don't know, and that's a lot, it seems. Meanwhile, I discovered this little humorous take on it from the BRCC folks (no I'm not affiliated, just thought it was funny):
  14. 1 point
    Ours isn’t charging us thankfully. Assuming jobs stay the same it may fund some new tools and wood for furniture.
  15. 1 point
    I'm just taking a guess here, but isn't that better than almost dead or even dead?
  16. 1 point
    OK, I admit it! Some of your talents rubbed off on me when we shook hands. Chip, don't sell yourself short. I can't do string inlay, and I couldn't make a dovetail joint with or without a jig.
  17. 1 point
    I just used the concepts above to do this for a wine rack. Now in my case I used a dado stack and one pass but you could easily have done it in two passes with a smaller stack.
  18. 1 point
    The finger joint jig concept would work. First, make a jig using either a sled or a fixture on your miter gauge that has a pin the exact width of your dado stack, ¾". Cut one dado to the final width of 1" and use it as a spacer to set the pin plus a 1/4" spacer so that by cutting on one side of the pin you're cutting the left side of the dado (¾" and sliding it over to the other edge of the first dado you're cutting the right edge. In other words, by using the spacer for the first cut, you're cutting a 3/4" dado. Remove the spacer and slide the material against the pin, make the second (1/4") cut. From there on just cut against the left, then right side of the previous dado. Rinse repeat.
  19. 1 point
    That's very cool. Makes me realize how far I'll never get in my lathe and turning abilities. Takes more than skill, takes imagination and talent. I have the former, but not the latter two
  20. 1 point
    Wonderful piece. You have such a fun approach to turning. Creative ideas and nice execution. Thanks for sharing this.
  21. 1 point
    Damn young'un. I've met you, and it's no surprise that you're so talented. Absolutely beautiful.
  22. 1 point
    Stunning. I've read through your journal on how you do these multiple times. Still flabbergasted... Is the intent supposed to be a water drop? Another idea that would be cool is to do a turning of how physics visualize gravity and have a planet or sphere in the bottom.
  23. 1 point
    Wow! That''s a piece of art. Beautiful
  24. 1 point
    Very nicely done. Always enjoy your projects.
  25. 1 point
    Well a few scratchs seems to be the norm, but not really as scary to do as the final form suggests. For example the corners of the top piece look very sharp now, but when they are first turned they are 90* corners. Then the sides get sculpted and the corners get more acute. After that they get sanded to a point. And the sanding is done at 50-100 RPM or with the motor off.
  26. 1 point
    WOW! That's beautiful Mark. And I assume you still have all your fingers, else you would have mentioned it.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Thanks guys! Serves a purpose the talc cone sits in it
  29. 1 point
    From every one of us here.
  30. 1 point
    I would not consider that over thinking. I would consider it belt and suspenders.
  31. 1 point
    I have the 735 and have put a lot of board feet through it, and in five years still haven’t flipped the blades. I still get a great finish from it. I have a little Cutech 6” jointer that’s light enough to put on a lower shelf when I’m not using it. The planer has its own roll around so I don’t have to carry it anywhere. At 85# it’s not a toy unless you like that kind of thing No personal experience with a combo tool. I’ve stayed away from them only because like an enduro motorcycle, they always compromise something and aren’t the best at any one thing. That’s not to insult the Hammer owners, as a high end tool like that is always going to be better, that’s just my personal perspective on things in general. Plus I can’t justify the expense of the high end tools much of the time (hand planes being one exception).
  32. 1 point
    Quick update on the SUP. Last post of progress was on Tues, and I haven't moved as fast as I was hoping. Partly because we've had some nice weather and work on my garden/yard/house pulled me out of the shop. But that's ok, I'm still moving forward and the amount of glueups has been tedious. After finishing the top decking I began prep for adding the lower decking and for "closing" up the board. I have a few things that need to be done internally before adding the bottom deck. First is added glue strips to the plywood framework, a real long process. Here are my strips prior to sizing, and in the end I used all these; Gluing up to the plywood framework, glue to the center and to the cross pieces; Next I need to make sure that all the chambers of the board are connected for even air pressure. Some simply holes placed in the center support; And some notches in the cross pieces. These notches allow not only air flow but also can act as drain knotches in case water gets in the board, not that I plan that to happen; And here's the board woth the ribs glued on and all ready for the deck; Couple other things to point out. Blocking for leash cup and air vent. I'll be using an combination device fitted with a goretex membrane. This membrane prevents water for coming in but allows air to escape. The hole in the block will be centered at the bottom of the larger hole I'll drill into the top of the board to insert the leash cup/vent; Next, I prepped the back and front of the board for blocking the will form the nose and tail. Here's the tail; Here's the nose; Finally, got the fin finallized, First cut out; Next mark the midline; Then shaped/feathered both edges down to that line, this is called the foil for the fin; So the next steps will be leveling the supports, alittle work on blocks for the nose, and the adding the bottom deck. Thanks for looking!
  33. 1 point
    You guys get the chairs. I'll get the table.