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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/03/20 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    If you see two images, it's 'cause I pasted one and drag/dropped the other. If you see none, I don't know WHAT is going on. I see it just fine.
  2. 5 points
    Everyday we have quotes posted in our local paper that were overheard in public. Sometimes there just cute things but most of the time they are pretty funny and in this case fitting to the times.
  3. 5 points
    Bought a new trim router the Bosch cordless becuase well you can never have to many routers right
  4. 4 points
    Still working on the John Deere, when I get some time. It's back together, from the two splits for the reverser clutch system rebuild, and has been for several weeks. In the process of putting it back together, there are some hard hydraulic lines that had to put back together. They had to be disconnected to split the tractor. I found some serious problems caused by idiots working on it in the past. All the flare nuts were distorted from having regular wrenches used on them. After the nut is distorted, it will leak, so then the unknowing mechanic with tighten it some more. Only flare nut wrenches should ever be used on such line nuts, regardless of their size. These require either a 1" wrench, or 1-1/4" wrenches, and flare nut wrenches do come in those sizes, and even much larger. I ordered what I needed off ebay. All the steps of getting to a place where I need more tools adds time in days, as I order stuff, wait for it to get here, and then leave the packages for a couple of days to make sure any virus is dead. Here is the most visible problem I found, and then found that all the nuts, in the whole system were distorted. That's when I stopped, and ordered the large flare nut wrenches. I also printed out a torque chart, and ordered some flare nut crowsfoot sockets to use on a torque wrench. There will be more posts in this thread, but I need to get to work this morning. This has been quite a project. I'll add a couple of extra pictures, as a teaser for the rest of the process-ended up redoing the front axle too. It's been extra slow, since I'm working by myself, without a helper, like I normally do.
  5. 3 points
    I havent updated this in a while, but much progress has been made due to being shutdown. I am fortunate in the fact that I can work from home, counting my lucky stars on that. With no commute and no where to go, shop time has increased significantly. Leg vise has been fitted, tested and completed Base is complete. Laid out mortise locations for the slabs yesterday and hope to cut those this afternoon.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    One of the best systems I use is multiple white dishpans, and cups, to keep up with each assembly's parts. It worked like a charm when I put the tractor back together after the splits. It was a multi-month project, and it helped immensely in figuring out where everything went back. No left over parts, so far. This particular pan was for the forward facing, Mid-PTO, which I never have any need for, but it had to come out to get the Reverse Clutch out. I forget how many of these I used, but it was a fair number.
  8. 2 points
    Thoroughly enjoying the build right now. Hard to get actual work done when I am sitting on the other side of the wall from the bench. I just want to get out there and keep going. So close to the finish line.
  9. 2 points
    Felt I had to post this here... https://profootballtalk.nbcsports.com/2020/04/02/patriots-retrieve-more-than-a-million-n95-masks-from-china/ Robert Kraft gets a lot of headlines - both good and bad - but this quote caught my eye...“In today’s world, those of us who are fortunate to make a difference have a significant responsibility to do so with all the assets we have available to us.”
  10. 2 points
    Anyone here watch Zoboomafoo as a kid or with your kids?
  11. 1 point
    If the lid is too fragile to handle the suggested processes, why not sculpt the box edges until it matches? A ever-so-slightly curved line where the two meet is far more difficult to notice than a gap.
  12. 1 point
    So you mean my daughter has actually been coughing all this time???
  13. 1 point
    Just before all this Covid stuff we did respirator mask fitting for those of us who do accident investigations. There was an N-95 laying around afterward they used for a demo and since I work wood I asked what they were going to do with it. Get rid of it, they said. It's home, brand new, and wow don't I feel rich!
  14. 1 point
    Here's what proper large flare nut wrenches look like. Just like the small ones, they slip over the line, then onto the nut, and grab all six corners of the nut, so there is no distortion of the relatively soft nuts with a regular wrench. The crowfoot versions are for use with a torque wrench. If you put them out to the side, there is no correction factor to have to figure in, like there would be if you use it off the end of a torque wrench. The other wrenches are called "service wrenches". They're to hold other fittings on the end of flare nuts. Those fittings typically have narrow lands to try to discourage someone from using a regular wrench. Short handles help to prevent over-torquing. One of my uses for them is on ORB (o-ring boss) fittings/adapters to flare nut taper. Typically, into a casting, there is an ORB fitting with an o-ring between the fitting and the casting. The other end of that fitting is a male threaded end with a taper to accept the flare nut. You tighten the ORB adapter to a proper torque, hold it with the service wrench, and properly torque the flare nut line onto that. In the case of my tractor, where someone had worked on it that didn't know what they were doing, the ORB fittings were grossly over-torqued by the use of a regular wrench on the flare nut, which not only distorted the line nut (flare nut), but crushed the o-ring, causing one of the several such leaks. Picture of torque wrench is just for illustration of crowfoot positioning. I will have to use a short extension to allow clearance for the ratchet head, or use a regular beam type torque wrench.
  15. 1 point
    Well dang, man, you got us all expecting like. Best you buy a new drill press, now. You tell us what your looking for and we'll tell you what to get.
  16. 1 point
    What are you going to do with two drill presses? Congrats. Curious, what did you get?
  17. 1 point
    You still need to remove the hinges. But first determine where and how much it is out. Next wet the wood them clamp it to something flat and add shims to over do it because it likely will spring back a lot. And getting it right is a crap shoot from here. Skill and lot of luck is needed. Or if the gun has value and deserves a perfect display, start over. Not much wood involved...If I get to a spot that pisses me off I close the shop light and door. I sleep on it and have figured my best next step. But I need to walk away first. I recently built a face frame using mt trusty domino festool. The joints did not line up at all. The clamp was out of adjustment and would not hold the set up. Fix the tool. Burn the wood. And start over. If you do enough work you will at some point need to start over.
  18. 1 point
    You may need to remake the top. You likely have some instability in one of the rails.
  19. 1 point
    I wanted to get that bell crank out, rather than beat on it too hard, to get the tie rod ends out. One from a salvage place costs $500. I didn't ask JD how much a new one costs. That one cut off bolt is the one that split, when I was trying to get them out with the bell crank still in the tractor. Once I got it out on the floor, like this, I used the big puller again. When I got the puller as tight as I thought it out to be, with a 2' breaker bar, and 7/8" socket, I hit it hard with the 2 pound hammer, and it came out. The puller got the other one out without hitting it, but by then, I had a better feel for how much I could crank on the puller. I was glad I didn't have to rig up something to hold it up on the shop press, because even this piece is heavier than it looks.
  20. 1 point
    It's a 1978 model. The John Deere parts guy said it would be a 2020 when I get through with it. I didn't start out intending to do this much to it, but I keep finding stuff that needs to be redone. I don't know how it worked at all, with that twisted line, but I've used it for 29, or 30 years like that. I couldn't even get the lines to go back together, so I traced it forward. That twisted part was up behind the front frame, and under the hydraulic fluid cooler, so it wasn't in sight. Specs call for torque of 70 to 78 ft. lbs. for that line. I needed two pipes to get the front joint apart. I'll show pics of the big flare nut wrenches after I take some. While I was under there disconnecting the lines, I shook the inner tie rod ends, on that bell crank, and they were scary loose, to the point that I didn't want to drive it like that. Bent a regular puller trying to get them out. Ordered that big assed puller, and it split the bolt end. So, no choice but to take the bellcrank out, to use the hydraulic press, and in the process of getting that out, found out how completely worn out the bushings were on all the pivot points of the axle. So, more tools ordered, more waiting, but all the bushings are out now-a story in itself. That center section of the axle weighs a couple of hundred pounds. One of the best cheap, Chinese tools I've bought. Of course, I ended up having to use them in a non-standard way. That's a fifty buck set of press dies. They go up 1mm each. I ended up being to beat the bushings out, without having to build something to get that beast up to shop press level. The two press dies on the little shaft together: The little one fits inside the bushings in the frame. The bigger one fits the O.D. of the bushings, and the little shaft is for use with a slide hammer. I held that stub with Vise Grips, and hit it with the 2 pound hammer. That worked, in the tight quarters under the front frame. I ruined that slide hammer adapter, but that's the cost of getting the job done. The quarters were so tight under there, for swinging a hammer, that I had to cut a slot through the bushings in order to get them out. They wouldn't budge with blows as hard as I could get on them. In the center axle section, I could get those bushings vertical, and leave penetrating lube on those overnight, but the ones in the frame had to stay horizontal, so penetrant did no good on those, which is why I had to cut them. They'd been in there for 42 years. That one in the last picture was behind the back journal enough that I couldn't get a good swing with the 2 pound hammer, if I put that handle in the die, so I kept stacking smaller ones behind the first one, so I could hit them with the stonework hammer.
  21. 1 point
    My shop door is within arms reach of my work at home desk. I've been using my "15min" breaks to glue on edge banding or other quick tasks to make what i'm working on in the evening go that much faster. It's a nice break.
  22. 1 point
    The Bosch Palm router, should be here in a week or two. I will let you know how I like it but like you mentioned I think it will be nice for edge routing tasks. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/12v-max-routers-37949-c/
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Mineral oil or nothing, for now. Maybe salad bowl finish later. I wouldn't use any film finish that might lift away from heat / moisture and flake off into the dough.
  25. 1 point
    I have spent most of this work from home with an iPad on my porch. Even When it is cool, the fresh air is awesome for clear thought. It will be tough to go back to a school building in the fall.
  26. 1 point
    So much of total cost is number of re-grinds. It begs the question, are you likely to sharpen or replace?
  27. 1 point
    Coop the next time you come in, I want you to kick my butt for selling RIW a whole log of tiger hard maple.
  28. 1 point
    I just got this email from Nikon. I guess they are taking advantage of people being stuck at home and are opening up their learning courses for free. https://www.nikonevents.com/us/live/nikon-school-online/?&utm_source=MKT&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=FreeNSO-4-1-2020&utm_content=btn&utm_term=startnow&ET_CID=3269339&ET_RID=326549722&SC_ID=0032400000mK7W3AAK Could be useful to many just thought i'd throw it here.
  29. 1 point
    Yes, it's a little upscale from what I was originally after. And a little more complicated than I could wish for. But it delivers much better results than I was getting.
  30. 0 points
    I see two ugly rug rats.