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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/05/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I made an attachment for my Starrett combination square heads and my LN side rabbet planes, here's a short video: For those of you who haven't seen my tool chest build, here's a link:
  2. 7 points
    My daughter is in town. We went up to the nearest DQ for my now 13-year-old pup's birthday. Maggie got her own burger and her own ice cream cone! Then we headed home for ribs and margaritas. The weather was perfect.
  3. 6 points
    Tried my hand at spraying with my Wagner HVLP. This little computer desk is for my Dad's home office. Sorry the lighting is terrible. Anyway, it was a learning experience. Rustoleum Industrial enamel, dries slowly enough to self-level pretty well. The sprayer worked well, but I need more practice to get it smoother. Dad gave me a sketch with dimensions, and said "Just throw something together with 2x4 and plywood. I hope he appreciates that I tried to do more than 'throw' it together, although it IS just 2x4 and plywood. This side of the front panel is a surprise: I hope he likes having his signature / logo there! Dad is a painter and illustrator, lately an author. Officially retired but working about as much as ever. Hope I'm still going that strong in my 80s. If you would like to see his work, he has a gallery at www.joemccormickcountry.com. Thanks for looking.
  4. 5 points
    LOL that's funny we smoked some ribs and had DQ as well One of our huskys, Meeka sporting her patriotic eye wear
  5. 4 points
    Thanks Dave, celebrating our nations birth like everyone and the day I met this girl in 1969
  6. 3 points
    If I was Maggie I think I would hold out for the Ribs and a Margarita
  7. 3 points
    I wouldn't worry about making it any flatter. I would worry about contaminating my wood projects with oil or bits of metal left my the mechanic work. I suggest cutting a 'slip cover' of 1/8" hardboard to use for one activity and remove for the other. Use it for mechanic mode, I think is best.
  8. 2 points
    Hi all.. new joiner and first post! (and apparently flat workbenches are a popular topic ) So I have begun a workbench project for my garage. It will primarily be used as a general service bench (fixing cars and/or whatever) but I considered putting dog holes etc so it can pull double duty as a woodworking bench. The working surface is the subject of my question. Instead of the usual route I converted my grandparent’s old late 50’s early 60’s era dining room table (including it's three leaves) into the bench top. This consisted of biscuiting and edge gluing the pieces together, sitting it on top of 3/4” OSB, screwing the whole assembly into the frame, edging it with 1×2 red oak, and inserting wood plugs (I went a little overboard here lol). It is probably not a woodworker’s first choice, but it had sentimental value and rather than trash it I figured I’d use it. Plus it is real big (104” L and trimmed down to 36” D) Problem I’m having now is that a dining room table is not meant for this type of joinery. Overall it is pretty flat, but there is a high spot right in the middle which makes it about 1/8” bowed end to end. I planned on sanding it but found that the veneer of the leaves is extremely thin vs the table sections…. as you can see in the last pic, I already went through in a couple of places just getting the joints level. If I try to hog out 1/8 it will definitely go through. The good news is that the core of both the table and leaves is wood (see 2nd pic – leaf on left, table on top). The leaves have a thicker layer of what I am guessing is either cork or some 1950's incarnation of particle board. Either way probably not ideal for a workbench surface. The cores are about 5/8”-11/16” of what looks like poplar, maybe pine. So now I’m left with two choices: 1) Sand it as best I can to finish it, don’t worry about the spots it went through, finish and just use the thing. The good news is that 52” on each side is flat. 2) Somehow remove the roughly 3/16” surface to get to the wood core, then sand the whole thing flat as possible. As far as this, maybe router sled then chisel off what I can't hit, or electric plane it. Just afraid to make a giant mess and/or gouge the heck out of the cores. So with all that in mind, open to ideas on the best choice… or even one I haven’t thought of yet. Sorry for writing a book and thanks for any advice!
  9. 2 points
    Happy Independence Day everyone! I hope you're all having a wonderful, healthy, and fulfilling weekend with family, friends, etc. ...enjoying the best of whatever it is you're doing.
  10. 2 points
    Who do you think I am, Tom King?
  11. 2 points
    I guess for me, learning to dry test is a huge lesson. Find those issues before glue. On the flip, the value of the inlay would have made the choice of fix vs remake for me. Potentially, the grain match of sides to lid would also factor in.
  12. 2 points
    On something I have put time and effort into (especially if it is a commission or a gift) I just re-make fouled elements. My fuse for how long I will spend trying to make something "do" has gotten quite short over the years.
  13. 2 points
    That reminds me of a 1949 ford coupe I once had.
  14. 2 points
    I agree dead flat isn't necessary. Another option to separate the woodworking and other activities is to use rigid insulation, the pink stuff. I use 3/4" and it's stiff enough to do most woodworking tasks and you can cut into it.
  15. 2 points
    Moving day! Yesterday was packing and loading from 8a-8p and then driving the truck 8:30p-2a. Up again at 6:30 to get out the essentials for the kids. We’ll relax today and then unload everything tomorrow.
  16. 1 point
    Finished! The bed is based on the Greene and Greene bed in the Gamble house. The house and the furniture were designed a built by the brothers. I did a modification to the foot board, because I'm 6' tall and tall foot boards are bothersome. Finished with shellac and wax. African Mahogany, Gaboon veneered center panel, and Danizia pegs and splines. I used the plans by Martin McClendon from FWW Jan/Feb 2013. I really liked that he used six spindles on each side for the queen sized bed, four just don't look right to me. Happy 4th! Sorry not a full project journal.
  17. 1 point
    I'm either crazy or stupid. It's 90 degrees and 50%humidity (70 degree dew point) and I'm running my chain saw mill.
  18. 1 point
    It's in the same family as Mexican Kalatox so I'd expect similar difficulties. Interlocked grain, high density and dulling your tools. I does turn out shiny on its own though.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Loved the pic Dave. It reminds of simpler times in our nation when I listened to the baseball game on the radio with my girlfriend and family holding a frosty one waiting for the fireworks. Yea baby. Happy 4th y'all.
  21. 1 point
    Hi Guys and Ladies: My name is Martin. I work out of Cloverdale BC. So I'll just jump in and share a few pics on my present project.
  22. 1 point
    Hi wtnhighlander: Thank you for ur response. Perhaps this might be of interest to some of your members. I love trying working with new materials and branching out from wood working such as welding and in this case stone. To answer your question the stone I used is a slate which is VERY hard . . . don't know the hardness scale . . . but I went through 5 diamond disks cutting and shaping the stone mosaic. I also bought an air driven wet polisher for stone around 250.00. . . It is much like any 5 " angle grinder BUT THIS ONE FEEDS WATER CONTINUOUSLY TO WHERE YOUR WORK IS. . . . 4 or 5" discs are driven by air and a water feed hose which passes through the grinder and feeds onto the surface you are grinding RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ARBOUR WHERE YOU TIGHTEN THE DIAMOND DISKS OR SANDIING DISKS The machine didn't come with a guard like most grinders . . . so I took an old guard that I had from a burnt out grinder . . . modified it and fed the water line to a whole in the guard so as to feed directly onto the outside of diamond CUTTING WHEEL . . . This keeps the diamond cool so it can better cut the stone and also makes it totally dust free. If I didn't do that the diamonds ware away WAY TO FAST and I would be breathing I a cloud of dust. I also have an old 10" Target water saw that I did a rock wall with the help of some super qualified stone masons who taught me an awful lot. On the project above I was after a certain look which is looking into a clear water stream or lake in where you can make out the three dimensions under water. I also just wanted to play around with the metallic colours that you can do with the epoxy , A HEAT GUN AND A TORCH. I got a little carried away with the colour on the first pour of the sink countertop and lost some of the perception of depth but it still turned out awesome non the less. BTW there is a stainless steel UNDER - MOUNT sink in there that is totally encapsulated in place by epoxy. Kinda cool when you see how I did it. Pics are a thousand words. Quite the formwork to dot it. EVERYTHING HAS TO BE LEAK PROOF until the epoxy sets On the Table Top I did something I mixed up about a gallon of the PE-100 standard epoxy ( not deep cast).see the 3 rd. picture above After a 16 hour set time I mixed another 6 gallon deep cast pour OF CLEAR. see the 4th. picture above As with all projects it is about the endless prep work In The pictures so far it is difficult to see what I am talking about. the plastic hoarding around the pieces is to keep the pieces free of dust floating around in the room. I will share some other pics later to help you better see it but there is 1/4" of epoxy covering the stone. Epoxy can be used as a glue as we all know in wood working. But in this case it IS NOT SO MUCH AS A GLUE . . . BUT A MATERIAL TO COMPLETLY ENCAPSULATE. Pardon the rambling on but the stone is back set from the edges of the forms to enable routing ONLY EPOXY AND NOT STONE. Also at top of the epoxy a meniscus is formed wherever epoxy touches a form wall and that is why it needs to be routed ROUND OVER. Any way thanks for reading I will post more pics as the work continues. best rgards, Martin
  23. 1 point
    Looks like a perfect fit. That tool box leaves me with some tool envy, and a lot of tool box envy. I need a better place to store my tools than just laying around my shop.
  24. 1 point
    I just saw a utube video on using Bondo in Woodworking. Where did yours come into play?
  25. 1 point
    I’m impressed! Very well done D!
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Very professional looking! As is your dad’s website. Very well done bud!
  28. 1 point
    Scrollsaw and MDF. Nabbed an image from his web site, traced it to an SVG file so it would scale up smoothly. Then printed and glued to some scraps of MDF. Tedious, but not difficult.
  29. 1 point
    The signature is a cool addition. How did you do that?
  30. 1 point
    Very cool Ross I’m sure he’ll love it and the signature is a great addition. Great work for just “ thrown together “ I don’t know how many times I’ve heard that from people that want me to build stuff
  31. 1 point
    I think most of us were lucky in this way. If I had been the smartest of the two we would have been in a lot of financial trouble. Happy Independence Day, you all.
  32. 1 point
    The legs I had meant to mention the way I dealt with the dowels, which were the original joinery for the legs, but there was not the opportunity. Here are the legs, and you can see the ugly dowels. What I did was to turn them upside down, and remove the dowelled section in the taper cut ... First, the legs were morticed .. I built a simple fixture for my sliding table saw ... The nail holes were filled with coloured epoxy, which disappeared after the finish was applied ... And then smoothed ... I was asked (when I posted this photo elsewhere) why I planed into the grain. The answer is ‘because I can with a closed chipbreaker’ No, the real answer is because it was easier to keep track of the mark demarcating the flat section. Regards from Perth Derek
  33. 1 point
    Hopefully I have better luck with this one.
  34. 1 point
    Her Mom, my oldest used to hang out with me in the shop with me, although at that time the "shop" wasn't nearly what it is now. We built some nice projects together. I would say that she listened to what I was saying back then because when she was in college part of her major required her to take a shop class were they learned how to make theater sets. We heard through the grape vine from the college that on a couple of occasions our daughter informed the instructor that "there was a safer way to do that".
  35. 1 point
    There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest. We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case .. This is where the build ended ... The drawer case and its fitting I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with .. The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ... .. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ... The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant. The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip. The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ... This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely! Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ... To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ... Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ... The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ... A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back. This is the result ... By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top. The drawer The drawer build was fairly straight forward. The usual half-blind fronts and through dovetail rears. Transferring tails to pins on the Moxon ... The sides were grooved rather than using slips. This was to save the extra 3mm height needed for the slips (saving as much height as possible for inside the drawer). 3mm grooves .. Matching groove in the drawer front ... Below is the stage of glueing up the drawer carcase. You know that it is all coplanar and square (essential for a piston fit) when the dovetail at each end just drop neatly into the matching sockets ... The 6mm thick drawer bottom receives a 3mm rebate. This was made with a moving fillester, and then fine-tuned with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fits well and needs minimal tuning. Got to use the newly-made drawer-planing fixture ... Two items added: a very fine chamfer to the top of the drawer front, to prevent binding when the drawer is closed. And a stretcher across the tops of the drawer sides, prevent the drawer tipping ... This aids in achieving near-full extension ... The end Regards from Perth Derek
  36. 1 point
    We started of today by cutting the legs and aprons to final length. First she trued up one end of all the legs using the cross cut sled. Set up a stop block to cut them to final length. Here she was learning how to check the setup of the stop block for correct length before cutting the long aprons to final size. And making the cuts. Next we did all the joinery for the legs and aprons. For this we used Dominos. I forgot to take pictures of this because I was enjoying watching how well she has adapted to using this machine in such a short period of time. If anyone is interested in how we decided to use dominos for this instead of a more traditional mortise and tenon joint for her first project, let me know and I will be happy to share it with you. This is the first dry fit of the project. This brought a real smile to my face to see her work on her first project come together this well. The table looks chunky right now but we still have to add some curves to the aprons and legs and a chamfer to the underside of the top among other things.
  37. 1 point
    Well, not exactly new, being a 2004 with 275,000 miles, but new for this use. Pam found a car she liked, and with this one not being worth much, we decided to make it a farm vehicle. It works good for this. The horses got out yesterday morning. Someone came through, and left a gate open. I drove this all down through the trails looking for them, but when I came back to the house, they were grazing in the yard. Hatchback AWD, and plenty of power, will work good.
  38. 1 point
    I re-upped today for another tour of duty. Plan was that tomorrow was to be my last day at work. I hashed out a deal with the new owner that I will work 3 days a week for two weeks a month instead of for 3 weeks a month. 11 days off, 3 at work, 11 days off, etc. . Instead of full retirement, I kinda did it for my wife’s sanity as well as my own!
  39. 1 point
    I see a lot of spoons in that elm log....
  40. 1 point
    Hey @Chestnut another tip I've read on the AAW forum is to cut log segments 6 inches or so longer than the blank you're expecting. That way if there is end checking you have wood you can cut off.
  41. 1 point
    A LOT easier, when the boards are really big and heavy. I don't know about the deflection that @Chestnut mentioned, but if a board is twice as long as either the infeed or the outfeed table of my little benchtop jointer, balancing the board as it starts and finishes begins to get sketchy. I feel like that sketchiness goes up exponentially as the difference between the board and bed length increases. Not to mention that the fences on these little jointers are pretty flimsy and small. Honestly, I was more comfortable running mine upside-down along that big oak slab than running a 8' pine 2x4 across it right-side up.