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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/20 in all areas

  1. Made an offer on our first home. Sign says “Sold” but offer hasn’t been accepted yet, but builder’s agent seems to think it will be. Have lived in 7 different homes in the last 13 years with the military and are hoping we can finish my last 5 years of service in this one. Really excited to have a home that is our own.
    7 points
  2. We had my wifes celebration of life yesterday. Several people there. The plant from the forum is really nice. I really appreciate it. I'm not the greatest with house plants, but I'm going to do my best to keep it going.
    6 points
  3. 5 points
  4. It is, was hoping for a full 3 car garage, but this turned out to be our favorite home and 2.5 should work (~540sq ft). Haven’t ever had a full garage to myself before, so I’m excited to get it all set up
    4 points
  5. Been doing more tool fitting over the weekend in order to accommodate my dividers and a few more tools:
    4 points
  6. How much are you listing them for? I might know someone interested....... . I've been missing shop time. I have a lot of landscaping work that I want to get done so I've been spending time on that. I've been moving sprinkler heads in preparation for some stone edging. I also have about 0.1 acres of "woods" that I've been clearing the buck thorn out of and don't some selective thinning on the trees. I forgot to take beginning pictures but if you look at the picture below. My property looked like my neighbors, so dense underbrush. The underbrush is almost all buck thorn a very nasty invasive species. Luckily it is very easily uprooted so most of the small plans i pull by hand. The larger plants I use a tool call a Root Talon. Looking the other direction I still have a good long ways to go.
    3 points
  7. We've all been looking for that woman!
    3 points
  8. All four have been in the shop and worked on small projects. She is the only one that has shown interest in continuing the hobby. They all have things they pursue and are good at as far as hobbies go. And I am glad to say none of the hobbies include being glued to video games.
    2 points
  9. That's just a gear from a broken spinning reel I took apart a couple of years ago. BTW the tool is not a center punch, it's a scriber I use as an awl, and that gear serves as a protective cap for now.
    2 points
  10. Before you do any more sanding, make sure that is not veneer rather than solid wood. It doesn't take much to sand through thin veneer. It could be just a natural dark place in the wood. However, if you think it could be some kind of stain, you might try a wood bleach. Oxalic acid is a one part bleach that is inexpensive and easy to use. If that does nothing, you might try a two part bleach (sometimes referred to as A-B bleach). If it is veneer and the bleach doesn't work, you will need to use a toner (colored finish) to blend it in. Or, just leave it alone. What did it look like before you started stripping it?
    2 points
  11. It was signed by both of us before she sprayed the finish. I only signed after asking her if she wanted me to. I signed Paga, which is what the grandkids call me. You can see the signatures in the first picture of her spraying. We would have to talk about the safety of using that too, like don't us it on your older brother.
    2 points
  12. OK. Dinner is done. Country fried steak with homemade white gravy. Yumm! Step 1 was to build a new cabinet to hold my sharpening equipment, bandsaw stuff and drill press supplies like bits, etc. I needed it to be smaller than the old cabinet so it would fit in the space between my workbench and bandsaw, with the dust collection gear behind it. I had 34 inches of width to work with, and about 18" of depth. I needed to incorporate an 8" grinder, a 6" buffer and my Worksharp 3000, which one of my son's gave me for Christmas and I have found great for working out bad nicks and prepping new chisels. I even use it for the final honing on my beater chisels. I also wanted to incorporate a Wolverine sharpening jig that I have had around for a bunch of years, but never got around to mounting it. The lathe tool sharpening holder presented a problem because it is over two feet long. The grinder and buffer would barely fit in the 34", so I had to figure something out there. There was no way I could get the buffer, grinder and Worksharp in a straight line. After thinking about it for awhile I came up with an answer. (Ever wake up in the middle of the night with an "Ah, ha!" moment?) I decided to go vertical with some of the mounting. First, I built a lower cabinet with drawers sized to fit the stuff that was to go in it, especially one drawer that would hold my Forstner bit set that I got from Woodcraft - good set by the way. It is just a standard cabinet made with gray melamine sides, top and fronts. I used plywood for the bottom as it was going to hold quite a bit of weight. Dado joints on the vertical sides transfer the weight from the cabinet to the bottom and thus the casters. Here is a picture of the bottom: It is just a basic cabinet with ball bearing drawer slides. I used strips of oak I had laying around to trim the edges. The drawer pulls are from a batch my wife bought me for Christmas - They are one one fancy thing in my shop - matching drawer pulls. All of the drawer are just butt joints with glue and brads. The fronts are screwed on. Nothing fancy, very utilitarian. Then I added a top on it to hold the equipment. I mounted the grinder and Worksharp on the top of the bottom section and the buffer on the upright I added. Hidden behind the Worksharp is a Wen drill sharpener I inherited from my father. Here is the finished product: I did have one problem. I originally used some light duty casters from Grizzley. They were rated at 75 lbs each. If you look carefully, the front left caster had failed. I replaced them with this caster from Home Depot. I have gotten to really like these. They hold a lot of weight without flattening or failing. So that is the story of the first step. I am happy with the cabinet and its functions.
    2 points
  13. and is going to set up a (I use the term loosely) Pro workshop here in the UK. After leaving school with very few qualifications I went stright into an on site apprentiship with my step dad. After 20years ish of sitework doing everything from Kitchen, bedroom and bathroom installations, to building outbuildings and doing all 1st and 2nd fix carpentry I have finally decided I dont want to work outside in the winter any longer. After losing my dad last year to a nasty battle with cancer, I have decided lifes to short to be miserable at work and with the help of a small inheritance (thanks dad), I am in the position to take fulfill a dream and take on the rental of a 1500sq ft workshop for a minimum term of 3years. Lease was signed beginning of this week and I am just awaiting the completion date and picking up the keys............... My legal representative is hopeful this will be within the next week/10 days Its over two levels as it has a mezernine floor over half the ground floor. Upstairs are two large (hopefully) dust free offices which will be used for doing upholstery work, finishing and the designing. I have registered the new business name as 'Against The Grain Carpentry & Joinery', im mid way though the 4th revision of my logo/social media design with a graphic designer and have MOST of my power tools, hand tools and machinery on order, awaiting delivery or are on the way in the US/UK/Canadian postal services somewhere. So far the main equipment I have purchased which are awaiting delivery: Sedgwick 308PT Planer Thicknesser http://sedgwick-machinery.co.uk/?page_id=81 Sedgwick SM210 Spindle Moulder, Power feed, Router spindle shaft (1/2") and sliding carriage http://sedgwick-machinery.co.uk/?page_id=53 Sedgwick TA 314 Table Saw with sliding carriage http://sedgwick-machinery.co.uk/?page_id=159 Axminster Trade 5HP AT639E Dust Extractor https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-industrial-series-ub-805ckh-extractor-102237 I am also contemplating getting a SCM large (900mm) belt panel sander and maybe a Sedgwick floor standing morticer.................. however I will wait until I am settled into the workshop and see what the budget looks like at this point as I still have so much to buy to get me set up. I have a fixed budget and want to stick to that if possible. I wont talk numbers in this post as I dont want to be seen as showing off/bragging or whatever, however if you are genuinely interested in what it has/is going to cost me to set up from scratch here in the UK to compare to where you are in the world, then just say as I have kept a running documented list of literally everything purchased so far to date and will keep updating the list until after I have moved in, no doubt! I will keep updating this thread as and when it all starts to happen, and hopefully you guys and girls will find it of some interest and maybe can add your 2 cents worth to help me get set up like a pro. I am sure I will have a load of questions for you all in good time with regards to set up and layout of a shop, extraction system, jigs etc etc It is almost 3am now, so I am going to finish up and get to bed, but I will leave you a few pics of the new 'shop'
    1 point
  14. 2hp Harvey cabinet saw for $989 brand new while they last. https://www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c200-30-10-table-saw?mc_cid=82222f9ea0&mc_eid=3567208f16
    1 point
  15. Old neighbor of mine bought an RV for a song, as the divorce decree mandated the man share any profit with his ex.
    1 point
  16. Fooled me. I was guessing a really fancy branding / stamping tool.
    1 point
  17. I didn't watch both videos, but in your comment, you indicated these tests were with mortise and tenon joints, which are a cross-grain glue application. In the seat blank for the chair, it is a long-grain glue-up, which is supposed to be stronger that the wood itself, and has shown to be so in my limited experience. In that situation, I fail to understand the advantage of using dominoes, dowels, biscuits, or any other device. Just curious what I might be missing.
    1 point
  18. OH BTW, the dominos really help with alignment assuming you don't goof. If you use anything be careful that when sculpting the seat you don't take off too much wood and expose the extra support.
    1 point
  19. In some forums I've read that a rep from Titebond speaking at a club meeting stated that the dowels or Dominos don't add any strength to the glue-up in the seat. I search YouTube but most of the test I saw IMHO were not valid. the best two were by Dowellmax (did not include just glueing) and Wood.Work.LIFE. (little on the weak side). Ref the test by Wood.Work.LIFE ( Test bt Diwekknax > . his handcut Mortise & Tenon broke at 118 lbs and the domino with two broke at 238. I could argue that the dominio was stronger based on this test. Thus I suggest that the domino is stronger than just glue but the real question is do you need the strength. If you have a DF500 IMHO there is no question as to if you should (yes you should). You are going to spend a LOT for the wood and invest 60+ hours, why take the gamble.
    1 point
  20. Can the edge trim be removed? If so, you will be able to see the veneer edge if there is one. Also, take a close look at the bottom. Sand it to bare wood if necessary. Does the wood grain and color look the same? It is common for veneered work to have veneer on both sides. However, the bottom may be of a different species or, may be a totally different grain pattern of the same species. If this is the case, you probably have veneer on the top. You might also use a small sharp chisel to "lift" a small sample on the bottom to check for veneer. If there is veneer on the bottom, there is veneer on the top.
    1 point
  21. This is awesome she did a great job. I love the table design as a well as the wood selection. My favorite part is the legs. The sweep out at the bottom has a very classy look and highlights the whole piece nicely. Both you and your granddaughter are lucky to have each other.
    1 point
  22. The weight of it is no indication whether it's solid wood or not. Probably not maple It looks ring porous, which maple is not. I would say it's veneer because it's on continuous piece across the width and it's rare to see anything made in the last century or so out of such wide boards. Stain often penetrates veneer deeper than solid wood because of tiny checks & voids in the veneer that come from the cutting process. That may be the case with the staining you see. Until you can determine whether or not it's veneer, use extreme caution when sanding There will be no warning when you are about to sand through. One moment there is veneer, the next stroke of the sandpaper & you are through. The only answer then is to reveneer the entire top. You probably don't want a dark color on the wood, but that may be the only practical solution. Find a dye/stain that will hide the dark areas.
    1 point
  23. I never set the dado stack width. I normally set up like 5/8" and use the fence for tenon cuts or bury the blade in the fence for rabbets. For exact width dados the kerf maker is far faster and easier than trying to set the stack up by trial and error. I honestly don't know what width i set up because i just grab the outer blades and all the internal blades and spacers. It's M&T and the rabbets for drawers that this problem comes up the most on. I feel like every project i make has a M&T and a drawer. I don't use my dado stack because i find I'm constantly switching between a standard blade and the stack when i have it installed. Having to adjust the blade height etc in the middle of a project creates problems as well. I do all of my final cross cuts on my table saw with a miter gauge and sometimes i don't really know the length i need at the time. So then i use the SCMS and deal with imperfect cuts. Most if it is poor planning but this is a hobby and I don't want to make it a chore. I"m on the fence between a 2nd band saw or 2nd table saw, it's going to be 1 or the other.
    1 point
  24. I was working in the yard yesterday and got to watch 2 male Cardinals fighting over a female. They were making quite the ruckus. At first I thought a hawk was in a tree near me as that's the only other time I've heard the birds freak out so much.
    1 point
  25. You'd want to use caution with this. If the veneer is quite porous, the finish may penetrate to the other side & interfere with the glue bond.
    1 point
  26. What wtnhighlander said. There is no surface coating that will prevent water from migrating back and forth between wood and air. Many will slow that process down, and some more than others, but nothing stops that process. Wood will eventually reach equilibrium moisture content, but even in the desert that isn't zero. And wood does not crumble because it is dry-- the fibrous structure of wood is not dependent on water molecules. So if you are encoutering crumbling there is another process, such as rot, at play. But wood can and will crack if taken from wet to EMC too quickly. Hope that helps.
    1 point
  27. The little darling can't fully realize the enormity of this table. Truly a legacy! Chet, I recall in this thread that there are more grandchildren? Even if they are adults I would invite each one to do a project. I personally would enjoy meeting your other grandchildren the same way in which I met your grand daughter here. On top of everything else, your presentation could not have been better! Thank you.
    1 point
  28. @Jonathan McCully, congratulations! Buying your first home is an amazing experience, I wish you the best of luck throughout the process.
    1 point
  29. You were damn lucky, that coulda hurt.
    1 point
  30. got lucky with that one Ross, but that's a sharp plane for sure, be more careful next time
    1 point
  31. I found the center of my dovetail bit on the router table. After I had found it and marked it, I noticed the plate has a zero mark. It did not match my center line. But as far as I could tell, mine is right. So I stuck with that. Then I cut my vertical divider grooves. Followed by making the matching dovetails on the divider. This is what my side pieces look like with all the cuts made. I couldn't believe this all worked out so smoothly. Test fit of vertical divider. I don't have microadjust on my router table, not sure you can do any sort of microadjust with the setup I have (as in woodpeckers/Incra setup.) Because of that I left the dovetails oversized. Then I sanded my fingers raw to get them to fit. I dry fit the entire thing, then glued one horizontal piece, and the dovetailed top board. Came back the next day and glued in the other horizontal piece. First horizontal piece I put glue in the groove. Second one I put the glue on the tails. Guess which one seized up and required hammering as hard as I could (with a pine piece to protect the walnut) until my arm fell off? It's the next day and my arm is still in massive pain. I also fixed a gaps and added wood filler. Also while looking at this I realized my back panel has to be trimmed. It needs to be 5" from the top to fit under the legs. So that will be up next.
    1 point
  32. The top of my case is just a small piece, using most of the room allowed by my desk legs. Since it won't be visible, thought it was a great time to try hand cut dovetails. Look away to avoid disaster. I'll be honest, I thought I'd do better, which as many videos as I've watched on doing this. Layout First cuts, look pretty good. Second you can see I wandered from the line, but considering this is my very first freehand saw cut to a line - I'm not mad at it. Coping saw, I could use some practice. And a better coping saw than my $7 lowes saw. I've had my eye on the Knew Concepts one for a long time. New Veritas chisels sharpened up. Really sharp. I am actually discovered that you have to file the edges down on these. I walked away from this with 11 individual cuts on my hands. None from the tip of the chisels. Final product - looks ok, could be better.. Laid out the pins, lost my marking knife. I ordered a new one from Lee Valley but like everything it seems from there, it was on backorder. I just got notification yesterday that it shipped. In the meantime I used the thinnest pencil I had. It was not good enough. I stayed pretty far from the lines so I could chisel them. I thought I could chisel accurately to the line. Spoiler: I can't. Yup there they are.
    1 point
  33. Save some time and maybe a little money and get her a custom branding iron now, I’m absolutely sure she’s going to need it! I can’t think of a more inspiring thread, we’re all proud of her, talent and focused all in one
    1 point
  34. I am not saying this because she is my grand daughter but she is a very focused person. She has more focus on going after something she wants to do then a lot of adults I know.
    1 point
  35. That's a nice machine, and a very nice stand! You mentioned wheel chocks, which reminded me of a clever solution I saw Mattias Wandell using. Rather than install casters on every stand, he used a 'piano dolly' platform on wheels. He constucted his tables / stands such the the bottom stretcher was about 1" higher than the dolly. A pair of L-shaped levers were used to raise the item on the dolly for moving. Here is one example:
    1 point
  36. Step 3 of my reorganization required me to make a new cart for my planer that has storage in it to hold the setting gauge and spare blades for the planner. My planner is a Delta 22-650 13" 2 HP cast iron planer that they sold as a "benchtop" planer, but it is a seriously heavy beast that does a very good job of planing. I bought the planer back around 1982. The choices back then were this planer, the original Makita bench top unit or big floor mount planers that cost a bundle, even for a 12" planer. So I went with this one and haven't regretted it. Someday, I am going to fit it with a helical head. My original stand for it was built out of 2x4 stock and actually was pretty good, except for two issues. One, it was too short. I had to bend down to run something through it, which got hard on my back after awhile, especially if it was heavy 8/4 stock. Two, it didn't have any storage and the way I made it, which, while really sturdy, wasn't conducive to adding drawers big enough to handle knives and such. Because this planer is so heavy, I decided to make it out of hard maple, with mortise and tenon joinery. The casters I picked up for it are 6" urethane units rated at 375 lbs each, which gives a total of 1500 lbs - serious overkill, but they would allow the stand to roll over obstacles in my shop without tipping the stand over or the wheels going flat from standing in one place over time. The only bad part is that they don't lock, so I will have to use wheel chocks, especially if I move it into my driveway. It is on a slant and more than once I have had to chase a tool when it started rolling on its own. I started with a base made from 4" wide 8/4 stock with half lap joints at the corners. With the casters clamping though the joints and plenty of glue, the joints aren't going to fail. I routed the mortises for the uprights and got a reminder which way the bit drags the router on the first one. I usually use a hollow chisel mortiser, but didn't have a big enough chisel and bit. I also drilled the holes for the casters, as one of the bolts would be under one of the uprights and needed to be installed before glue-up. I also fabricated the upper ring in a similar fashion. Next I cut the tenons on the uprights on my tablesaw and fit them to the mortises. The uprights are a bit of overkill, but I wanted to make sure they didn't rack. With the large tenons and the extra width and thickness of the uprights, they should be plenty strong. Fin Finally, I glued the base together and bolted the casters in place . The last step in fabricating the stand was to install the drawers and bottom. I chose to install two drawers (not that much to store for a planer!). I enclosed the sides and back with gray 3/4" melamine MDF to match my other cabinets and the planer. I fab'ed two drawers from 1/2" baltic birch sides and 1/4" baltic birch bottoms. Butt joints and brads were my exotic joinery for the drawers. The drawer fronts are screwed on and I added the two pulls that match the rest of my cabinets. Three coats of Sealcoat shellac sprayed from a can I wanted to get rid of finished the maple parts. That completed the stand. In this picture, you can see my planer on the old stand in the background. The last and hardest step was to get the planer bolted on top. I got my son and grandson to help me lift it on. That planer has to weight something like 250 lbs! It is a back buster. We set it on the stand. I removed the drawers and reached under to mark the bolt hole locations, then rotated the planer 45 degrees so I could drill the holes. There was no way I was going to remove and replace that beast. After twisting the planer back in place, I installed the bolts and that finished that up. The bed of the planer ended up at about 30" from the floor, which is just about where I wanted it. It is oriented the way it is so that I will be able to get into the drawers when it is in its final location. I had to clean the planer up. A couple of years of sitting behind a lumber pile, plus some visits from the resident mouse family left it covered in dust and the cast iron table with a thin film of rust. I wiped everything down with mineral spirits. I decided to try some CRC 3-36 that Fine Woodworking recommended as a rust preventative from one of their tests. Turns out that Home Depot carries it. It is also a penetrating lube, so I sprayed the table down with it and remove the rust film and spots with some Scotchbrite pads and resprayed with the CRC lube. Worked well for that part and I haven't seen any signs of rust on it since. If you look on the left side of the planer, you will see a chip collection gadget I fab'ed up. This planer didn't come with a dust scoop and by the time I had a dust collector, they no longer sold them, so I made this out of 1/2" baltic birch scraps. \When I first built it, the hose came straight out of it and, while it worked pretty well, I was always fighting with the hose. So I changed out the hose fitting with a flanged elbow and that solved the problem. It's not very pretty, but it works pretty well, only missing a tiny bit from each board. One thing that I really don't like about my current shop is that I have to unbury the jointer and planer to use them, so I tend to not use them very much. I have this good gear, but because it is such a pain to get it out, I tend to not bother. With the new shop layout, both will have a permanent place and will be connected to the dust system. Since I have an automatic starter for my DC that turns it on anytime I start a dust producing power tool, all I'll have to do is open the blast gate to use a tool. I intend to locate the gates so they are easy to get to. If anyone wants to see how the automatic start gadget is connected and how it works, check out the August, 2000 issue of Fine Woodworking, page 66. It paid for my dust collection system. Next up are some storage improvements. Thanks for following this.
    1 point
  37. Those areas were not noticable prior to stripping and sanding? If the former finish was dark, I would bet on that simply being old stain that penetrated the wood more. Keep sanding.
    1 point
  38. Coop, my helper want work when it gets hot.
    1 point
  39. This might actually happen. My current space is about 17'x24', so it's actually about the same area as my last setup, but I don't have to share this one with bikes, lawn tools, etc. To the left of the shop space is another unfinished room, and to the right is a "basement garage" where the HVAC, water heater, breaker panel, and my loaner ZTR mower are. The top wall with the door and window is an exterior wall, and there's a half bath and small storage area under the stairs that go up to the main floor. I currently have all of my lumber stacked up along the exterior wall since some pieces are 10-12'. The ceiling is 8' but there are some ducts running through there that lower the clearance to just under 7'. I'll play around with the grizzly workshop planner to get a starting idea, then will start moving some things around. (Once I get all of the cardboard boxes out of there)
    1 point
  40. My alt process endeavors are progressing. I built a work area in front of the darkroom that I can control the lighting in, and put a nine foot workbench along the wall. That let me resurrect an old platemaking vacuum contact frame I can use for my prints. I moved my uv led bars to a thin sheet of plywood hinged to the wall so I can drop it over the vacuum frame to expose the print. Just got a few prints done today.
    1 point
  41. And any day fishing with your son has an unlimited multiple! Yeah Cody!
    1 point
  42. You could just take the "organic" route and set up tools as you need to use them.
    1 point
  43. Okay, the last day started off by attaching the figure 8's to the base. Then center punching for the screw hole in the top. Then drilling and pre-threading the holes in the top. A final vacuuming of the parts before finishing. This next step is were she really left me impressed. I thought this is were she would have some struggles but after practicing the spray process on some spare plywood. I was real amazed at the job she did on the actual top. She was just a little nervous and asked me to spray the base. Spraying the bottom of the top. And the top side. A couple of final pictures. And one with the newly minted woodwork.
    1 point
  44. I finally did some “woodworking” today, for the first time in a while due to the move. This was just cutting out a piece to mount our new mailbox, but it was nice inhaling some sawdust again. One rip on the table saw and a couple cuts on my new miter saw, then drive a few screws. I have all of my lumber and tools in my new temporary workshop- my unfinished basement- but I haven’t started laying it out yet. I currently have a mountain of cardboard in the middle of it that I need to deal with.
    1 point
  45. Cody's looking good. Good on ya Ross. I added to the family today. 2 month old Great Pyrenees little girl.
    1 point
  46. So, this happened today... Boy has been begging to go fishing for a while, so I finally took a vacation day, and we went to a quiet lake in the Natchez Trace state park. Caught several red-eared sunfish, one largemouth bass, 3 striped somethings I don't recognize, and one blue catfish. Any day a fish is caught is a good day of fishing. And any day fishing is better than a day at work.
    1 point
  47. I've been there 3 times now and plan to return soon. Doesn't look like there will be any in-person classes this fall semester, so I'll have some time to do a few trips. It's a beautiful drive from here - through Georgia O'Keefe country and southern CO. I got stuck in construction traffic last time I went up. Not a bad place to get stuck. s I ordered a small lathe today, a Rikon 70-220VSR, mainly to make a couple of urns. One for me and one for Alison's son.
    1 point
  48. Mick, Allison, Freedhardwood's wife Vera and My wife, get a prayer sent at least once a day, but in truth, they go up everytime I think of one or the other, and that'a very often... It's not easy being without those you care most about, and I can't say it gets easier. For me it doesn't. But I send word up daily. Hang on young'un. Life finds a way, so I'm told.
    1 point