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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/27/20 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    About a year ago I read Nick Offerman's book. It's a pretty fun read if you have not read it. In that book, he has a picture of a table designed and built by George Nakashima. It's this picture: When I saw that picture I was immediately smitten with this design. To my eye this table is somehow both complex and simple at the same time. I knew when I saw the table I needed it on my todo list. I could not start on the table right away. I had to remodel our kitchen which took an incredible amount of time. I had to build some shelves. I also built a small counter top for our laundry room. All that took many months. Too many months. And all through those months I could not get this table out of my head. And now that we are in the dead of the summer here in Arizona.....where it has been around 117 degrees for a couple of weeks.....I have finally been able to get started. I did some googleing and found some more pictures of the table to emulate. I was also able to find some rough plans: I now have enough enthusiasm and knowledge to be very dangerous. So I went and bought some wood! The 4 boards on the right are 8/4 white oak, these will make up the table top. These are 10 feet long. My table is only 6 feet but they only sell them in full lengths. I will have a lot of big off cuts. White oak is my favorite so I suppose having some extra white oak kicking around is not a bad thing. The board on the far left is 12/4 white oak. I SHOULD be able to get all the pieces needed for the base out of just that one board. We'll see though. Just getting these monster boards out of the truck and into my garage by myself took some mental (and physical) gymnastics but I did it. I am building the base first and I will do the top last. My reasoning is that if I were to glue up the table top, which will be 3'x6' then that top is going to be very heavy. Way too heavy for me to move by myself safely. And at that size the top will probably be in the way in my small shop/garage and would require being moved around a lot. But the individual boards, while still heavy, are much easier to move around. For the base I am starting from the ground up. I'll make the long "runner" that runs along the floor first, then the "feet" that sick out to either side, then angled "legs" and end with the cross pieces at the top of the legs. To make the base I need to turn that large 12/4 board into smaller boards. As you can imagine, this took a bit of time. But I rather enjoyed it. Here is what you are looking at in the above pic. I jointed and planed the long floor runner (I don't really know what to call that thing) and that is what you are seeing on the right, it's just under 5' long. To it's left, that large piece will be the "legs". That piece is just over 5' long, it will be cross cut directly down the middle for the legs. Below the leg piece is the part I will be using for the feet. And below the already milled piece is where I will get the cross supports that will be the top of the legs. I ended up ripping all 10' of that board by hand. I was not as sore as I thought I would be, but I did get more blisters than I thought I would. All of those parts got crosscut and milled. Now for the REALLY fun stuff. The joinery! Starting with the Floor Runner and the Feet. This is the runner. It gets a notch. I cut close to the line then did relief cuts. Chisel out then waste trying hard not to blow out the back side. Establish my marking lines. Not flawless but she's square and my knife lines ended up perfect. Now for the feet. This joint is a little trickier. Need to make this lap on both sides, so mark it, cut it, chisel it. Clean up with the router plane. Then clean up with the chisel. I need to make a notch in the foot that will correlate to the notch in the runner. Same exact steps as the others. Cut. Rough chisel work. Then some fine chisel work. Ready for a dry fit. Fits very snug. I actually had to plane the sides of the runner a little bit to get the joint to seat fully. Here is the bottom which no one will see. Here is the top looking VERY sharp. And both feet done! I have left everything long. I will not cut the runner or the feet to their final width until I have the table top made. That way I will have a much better sense of proportions. Next I will work on the legs. The leg joinery will be very similar to the joinery for the feet but this time the runner will be getting the laps on the sides and the legs will just receive the notch. Anyone know what the name of that joint is? I assume it is some kind of bridle joint. Housed Bridle Joint? Lapped Bridle Joint? Well whatever it's called it was my first time doing it. I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to figure out how to mark everything. Thanks for taking the time to look. I'll keep updating as I get stuff done, but don't hold your breath, I do not get much opportunity to do much woodworking. I currently have no time for the next 2 weeks. But I'll keep plugging along. If anyone sees any red flags that I am overlooking please shout them out. I still very much consider myself a beginner and could use the help of you veterans.
  2. 4 points
    Made some good headway on this in the past week. First up was to mark the curves on the sides assemblies, cut the curves, and then clean up the band saw cut. I'm not sure if I've posted the trick I use for walnut. I start by marking out what i need in pencil, using a bit more pressure to get a heavier line but also put down a heavier mark. After marking the heavy mark with a regular pencil I go over the whole line with a white charcoal pencil. I think Marc talked about options for walnut once but finding the pens he talked about recently was difficult. I find this method works really well. I do the same thing for cut lines if the wood is extra dark as well. I feel it gives me a great balance of precision and visibility and ease of marking. After marked out I cut to the line at the band saw. Visibility at the band saw is important, band saws seem like they are difficult to light well. Cleanup was done with a spoke shave at the bench. For some reason my shave was chattering real bad on this walnut. I stopped half way through and sharpened the shave but that didn't make any difference. I'm not sure if the width of the material has an impact on that or not. In the end i got everything cleaned up and removed the chatter marks with a card scraper. After all the curves were cut and cleaned up on the sides, the sides got assembled. After assembling the sides i started working on the back side of the sideboard. I wanted to make a back but didn't want to have to deal with making panels and dealing with wood movement. So i decided to go for plywood. To mount the plywood i created a rabbet on the back pieces and will fill in the panels with ply at a later time. I wasn't overly concerned with the exact rabbet size but was shooting for 3/16". Any more than that may have caused interference with joinery. To set my fence i cut 2 pieces at 3/16" thick and used them as spacers to set the fence. Then I just router the rabbets in. Skipping where the vertical braces go. And a dry assembled picture for some clarity. After this is done i need to work on assembling some sub assemblies. This is goign to be far too complicated to try and glue together all in 1 go. I should be able to break it into 4-5 sub assemblies that I then glue together. This is going quick. I'm excited to get started on the doors and drawers.
  3. 4 points
    Let's keep this thing moving forward. Important steps today, did the filleting and glassing of the inside of the hull. It takes 4 steps pretty much in succession. I mixed a lot of epoxy. No mess of fish yet @Chip Sawdust! So I started with removing all the wires and fitting some blocks to the stern area. These will be imbedding in epoxy. You can just do and end pour after the construction and fill this area with epoxy, adding rigidity and allowing for a hole to be drilled thru the stern for a rope handle. I'm accomplishing this with these blocks, it does save some weight; Next it the filleting of the seams. This is pronounce fill-it, and basically that's what you are doing to the seams. You mix epoxy to peanut butter consistency by adding wood flour and load it into a bag and squirt it along the seams like a baker puts icing on a cake. Seems like a lot of food references doesn't it. Well you have to work fast on this step because the mass of epoxy will start to heat up and kick into hardening mode. Spreading it out allows for the heat to dissapate and it doesn't set as fast once you get it into the seams. So no pics of the process, just the finished product, you want just enough to fill the seams, any more doesn't add strength, just extra weight; Once the fillets start to set you move on to glassing the seams, Here is the glass prior to wetting with epoxy; The smoother your fillets the better you glassing looks. After you place the glass you wet it with epoxy and coat the inside of the boat with epoxy; Soon after this step you move on to glassing a sheet of glass in the floor of the hull where you sit. This just adds some rigidity and strength to this area. Here it is with the glass in place and wetted with epoxy, it's hard to see but if you look close you'll see the glassing; Oh, and here's a pic of the stern where the blocks are imbedded in epoxy and wood flour; So one more step today, I need to fill the weave of the glass in the seating area of the hull, this is done with a coat of epoxy. A lot of steps but it went fast, this project is much easier than I thought it would be so far. My experince glassing surf boards really helps here. On tap this week is to flip the boat over, sand and shape the exterior surface of the hull. Not a lot of sanding and shaping, rounding over sharp angles and sanding epoxy drips. Once the hull is sanded it's on to glassing the outside of the hull. Thanks for looking!
  4. 3 points
    Mt Washington yes Borah Peak no and probably not Yes the glacier was almost gone in 2012 when I was there, sad. All that was left... You can't even tell I had been puking for almost 2 days straight when I got to the top LOL It was a tough climb for different reasons, lots of dust, and the food well lets just say it didn't go well for me LOL. Having said that its really nice having porters and not having to carry 75lb pack for days on end, took a little getting used to though. Not really a huge animal guy but the safari I took was simply amazing I plan to take my wife back for a safari. Totally do it the safari was amazing! The first pic was actually from the climb the rest were from the 2 day safari I took Brings back memories I cant believe it was 8 years ago time flies.
  5. 3 points
    I did Mt Whitney (highest in lower 48) and Half Dome in Yosemite a couple of times. I just did Mt Lassen for the second time last week, its only 10,467 but at 68 yrs of age I am starting to think those days are behind me.
  6. 3 points
    Installed the sink and faucet prior to doing the epoxy so that all I have to do is add silicone and mount everything. The sink is held with silicone as well as 6 threaded inserts screwed/epoxied into the underside of the counter. I will use those to attach the brackets too., FWIW doing this inside was a royal PITA, I would highly recommend doing it in the garage where you have access to all sides unless you have no choice. I had the walls and upper bar masked off with plastic as well but missed getting pics. basically if you don't want it to get wrecked you have to tape it off. Then you have to pull the tape after a couple hours so the epoxy does not dry and have tape lines. You can use a heat gun to soften it up if necessary but watch out for the plastic, don'task me how I know LOL
  7. 3 points
    For today I now have what looks like a kayak. On tap was to finish stitching, working and getting alighment of the panels correct, and tacking the panels together with epoxy. Here's the kayak after stitching; Checking out to make sure there is no twist in the kayak; It's amazing how simple it was to get to this stage. There is a lot of stress on the wires in some areas, but it still is not too hard to coax the panels together. Here is the tacking of the joints with epoxy. I was told to mix it with wood flour until it was the consistency of ketchup. It seems like they use a lot of condiment references in the manual; Then the bow and stern will filled in with a peanut butter consistency of wood flour and epoxy; After 24 hrs I'll take out the wires and do my fillets. This will be the glue mixture that "holds the kayak together. If this seems wierd or you think I just like making food refernces, you'll have to look at my next post to see what I'm talking about. Thanks for looking.
  8. 2 points
    Woodcraft is running a sale the month of Aug on the Shinto 9" rasp $10 off $29.99 normally now 19.99. I really like this tool and $20 bucks is a great price.
  9. 2 points
    Ok the circ saw will work good for the straight parts the rest is hand work, I would draw the edges of the chamfer on the work piece, getting the majority of the material off staying away from the lines with a chisel I would fine tune the rest with a rasp and then finish up with a file and, sandpaper. Practice on some scrap to refine your technique good luck.
  10. 2 points
    Coat it with fiberglass & resin, like a boat.
  11. 2 points
    Astronomy. I've had several scopes over the years but am currently checking out loaner scopes from the Albuquerque Astronomical Society, as I plan on adding a small observatory. We have dark skies here so I'm testing things out to see what I can comfortably handle.
  12. 2 points
    [and hello again; sorry to have been gone. I did miss you guys.] I recently realized that my woodworking hobby is basically making boards (that I've used for a bench top, table top, book shelves, coat racks, cutting boards, charcuterie board - boards are us!) I probably need to "branch" out. ;-)
  13. 2 points
    Today I started on six acoustic picture frames for the exercise room. These will help with the echo in the room since there is no carpet/pad in there. I had pictures from a couple of climbs I did printed on cloth and then knocked out some quick frames using the Kreg jig . Not sure where I saw these I think it was FWW but man I love these little flip stops, they came in handy today.
  14. 1 point
    Starting a new project for a serious audiophile with some serious equipment. His McIntosh amp alone weighs 125 lbs.! The dimensions alone make this rack impressive; everything is 8/4 and the shelves are 23" deep, 52" wide, and the unit is 31" high. Each shelf will weigh about 70 lbs. The top shelf is Curly Maple and the middle and bottom shelves are Northern Hard Rock Maple. These will be banded with Curly Maple so from the front you'll see Curly Maple shelves. But since the middle and bottom shelves will be covered with gear there was no need for these to be the much more expensive Curly Maple. The legs are about 2" x 3" and are Purpleheart. I'll finish the piece in Nitrocellulose lacquer. While there's no rush on completing this piece I do want to stay on it as much as possible but as other orders come in I'll put this aside. For instance, we got two separate orders for 18" Longworth chucks today so I'll move all of this out and cut the chucks tomorrow, then move all of this back in to begin planing and jointing shelves. When the shelves are glued I'll take them to my friend's cabinet shop and run them through their wide belt sander. Our SuperMax 19-38 will work but it will be so much easier to do it on their wide belt sander. As you can see, just the lumber alone overwhelms our little shop and when it comes to assembling this I'll have to do it in the house because I don't have room in the shop to put it together. Preliminary design - One shelf, basically, prior to jointing - All the lumber for the project - Curly Maple close up shots - More photos and updates as I work through this project. Enjoy! David
  15. 1 point
    I'm sure it's in my bought list on ebay. I'll look. Here's the thread. Since I posted this thread, I've become less than happy with the vents, and found some better ones.
  16. 1 point
    Looking great, Drew! Do you set your shave a little lighter on one side? I feel like this help to quickly adjust the cut when chatter is a problem.
  17. 1 point
    Looks great Drew!
  18. 1 point
    BLASPHEMY! Yeah they are a bit loud but in all the right ways for me personally. I will make 1 or 2 of them some day. I LOVE how they appear to defy gravity.
  19. 1 point
    Yep gonna follow this one. I scanned the post but will come back to read it in full later. I've also always loved the look of this table. Are you goign to make the matching chairs?
  20. 1 point
    Keep at it, you're going to get a bunch of followers on this project. I'm one.
  21. 1 point
    I would get another opinion on the HVAC. Did your people quote a mini split or something else? It's worth a lot to me to be able to work comfortably year round. My projects turn out better if the wood, glues, and finishes are at the proper temp and humidity. You were considering this so maybe it might make sense to save towards a HVAC system. It also seems like the ultimate solution if there is concern about noise bothering the neighbors. I bet some of the members have done a diy install of a mini split. There are some on YouTube. Is that an option for you? I also recommend a compromise decision on the roll up door vs windows. Install a regular 36" entry door or splurge for a double entry door. I put an outswing double entry door on my shop so I don't have to allow space for the door to swing in. This will still give you the option of cross ventilation, allow you to add window(s) for year round natural light, and not eat up overhead space or as much wall. It is a nice space and will be great whatever you decide to do.
  22. 1 point
    Hope you're doing okay. I haven't used any routers with the switch on the handle. Wondering if a D-grip might help you have some more control.
  23. 1 point
    One reason I was also leaning more towards the garage door / barn door is that my garage door is facing my neighbors house (can kind of see their yard from my place) but no one is behind the garage. So if I wanted to be virtuous about the noise I could just open the back garage door so the sound goes out that way?
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Counter top looks fantastic. great job.
  26. 1 point
    Rainier, Kilimanjaro, three attempts on Denali made it to high camp but thwarted by weather all three attempts. I’ve also climbed 28 CO 14ers, and 42 state high points. Last big climb was in 2015 now pretty much 14ers and high points.
  27. 1 point
    What climbs have you done @pkinneb? I did Rainier back in 2013. Haven’t done any big ones since (little kids, too busy) but would love to do more
  28. 1 point
    After dark, I answer the door armed, unless I've expected someone late.
  29. 1 point
    At the very minimum, I would want at least 2 runs of "bricks" edge glued to make a single board before running it through a table saw. A single row of butted ends leaves too much risk of a joint coming loose, binding in the saw, and causing general mayem, for my comfort. Think of it like pushing a chain.
  30. 1 point
    Touch base with him for his preferences. Audio units I have built either include rollers so that the whole rig can swing away from the wall or flat "pullouts" that allow access to the connections on the equipment. If he already has fans setup to move air around his Mac you may be able to integrate fastening locations for him. Your nice open design will help avoid heat build up.
  31. 1 point
    No he didn't! But the other night we had someone ring our doorbell at 9:40pm (we were sleeping) since UPS dropped off something we'd ordered at his house. Turns out it was the neighbor across the street. I don't know about you all, but I think 9:40pm is way too late to go to someone's house that you've never even met.
  32. 1 point
    Let's get this thing going. I made the drive to Annapolis MD to pick up my kit. Threw the few boxes in my F250 and home I went so excited to start. It's completely amazing how well the kit was packed and amazing how few pieces you start with. Most of the stuff are cans of varnish, epoxy, and other construction essentials. They really do outfit you well with this build. So here's the "kayak" unpacked; The 2 stacks of wood you see wrapped in plastic are not actuall part of the kayak, they will be used as forms for the strip decking. Here's my progress on day one. After unpacking and getting organized, I start by putting together the hull. The hull will basically be 4 panels stitched together. Each one of these panels are in 2 pieces, so the first thing to do is to glue the panels together. Chesapeake Light Craft's CNC generated parts are pretty darn incredible. The joint is a puzzle piece fit; And the fit is dead on perfect; Another thing to notice, see the tiny holes in the bottom right of the pic, those come already drilled and those are the holes you use to stitch Before glueing, I did my best to pick panels that matched and made sure the best sides faced out. Then using epoxy and a fiberglass strip I glued the panels together; I used some left over fast set epoxy left over from my SUP build, so after a few hrs I was ready to move on. Quick cleanup with a sander. Oh, and another point, you want the glassed section of the joint to the inside of the kayak, the outer side of the joint has no glassing, just some excess epoxy. Once the panels are glued you prepare for the stitching of the hull. The mating surfaces are beveled. This went quickly with a rasp, again take note of the holes for the stitches; Cut my copper wire, 4 rolls included in the kit, way more than I'll need; Then the lower two pieces of the hul are laid together, inside face to inside face and you start threading wires through the holes. I was amazed that all the holes matched perfectly with each other. After stitching the hull you open it up like an envelop and wire in forms to create the shape. Here it is after those steps; Once I get the next panels on I'll tighten up the wires to close the seams, make sure everything to square and level. I will say the bow and stern were very difficult to bring to gether. The above pic is the stern, was able to get one of these holes stitched, but not the top one yet. Left it that way until the next day hoping the wood fibers will have "adapted". If not then they recommend wetting the plywood. Thanks for looking.
  33. 1 point
    Tonight I fit the first drawer front. Hopefully will be able to glue it up tomorrow.
  34. 1 point
    In the early part of the last century artists flocked to this area in no small part because of the sunrises and sunsets. The light is different here. Clear skies, high altitude, etc.
  35. 1 point
    Mick, it really is a shame that your surroundings are so bland and boring..
  36. 1 point
    I’m with you there Mick. I have five kids and I’m really hopeful that just one will want to learn from me in the shop. If not, I’ll just wait for grandkids like Chet did.
  37. 1 point
    And the other advantage, if you have it in your yard, is that within a couple years it'll take over all of your property and you won't have any yard work to do after that!
  38. 1 point
    This is what the dovetails look like rough sanded with water on them. Yeah, you can definitely tell if you know what to look for. But I'm pleased with my first try. I got my center vertical divider in and finish sanded the inside of the case. Then put on finish. I'm hesitant to do the outside at all because I'm bound to nick places while doing drawers. Since it's hard wax oil, the finish will blend pretty easily when I do catch the rest of the case up. Speaking of drawers Looking at this board right now. My total opening is 15 1/4" tall. This board at its smallest width (pic #1) is 11". At it's largest, it's 16". That seems like a very tight tolerance for me to get 10 drawer fronts out of with perfect continuity. If I choose the end in the second pic, where the board is 15 1/2" - Bandsaw blade is what? 1/16th"? So I'd take up a minimum 1/4" with bandsaw cuts. Then I have to clean up edges to get straight and final height would ideally be just a hair over 3" if I can swing it. That seems pretty difficult. So I'm going to think on it for a while. The other option is just cut wherever I like the grain the best and try to make them look relatively continuous.
  39. 1 point
    I bought my first pickup at age 14, haven't been without one since. I don't know how you stand it.
  40. 1 point
    Try Blue Sky root beer. It's a slow sipping root beer. A can will last me a hour easily. Great stuff.
  41. 1 point
    Those look great. I'd really like to influence you to pick one with a longer waterline length though. 12' limits hull speed enough to make a big difference in trying to get somewhere in one.
  42. 1 point
    I made an attachment for my Starrett combination square heads and my LN side rabbet planes, here's a short video: For those of you who haven't seen my tool chest build, here's a link:
  43. 1 point
    I found the center of my dovetail bit on the router table. After I had found it and marked it, I noticed the plate has a zero mark. It did not match my center line. But as far as I could tell, mine is right. So I stuck with that. Then I cut my vertical divider grooves. Followed by making the matching dovetails on the divider. This is what my side pieces look like with all the cuts made. I couldn't believe this all worked out so smoothly. Test fit of vertical divider. I don't have microadjust on my router table, not sure you can do any sort of microadjust with the setup I have (as in woodpeckers/Incra setup.) Because of that I left the dovetails oversized. Then I sanded my fingers raw to get them to fit. I dry fit the entire thing, then glued one horizontal piece, and the dovetailed top board. Came back the next day and glued in the other horizontal piece. First horizontal piece I put glue in the groove. Second one I put the glue on the tails. Guess which one seized up and required hammering as hard as I could (with a pine piece to protect the walnut) until my arm fell off? It's the next day and my arm is still in massive pain. I also fixed a gaps and added wood filler. Also while looking at this I realized my back panel has to be trimmed. It needs to be 5" from the top to fit under the legs. So that will be up next.
  44. 1 point
    I spray any porch ceilings with Suspend SC, to keep spiders from liking them for homes. https://www.domyown.com/suspend-sc-p-40.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32b1Xlvbefm4rLjKC1V1BVHITUtQhRiOTY2DIwD47edXxK5BlYT8QZBoCo2MQAvD_BwE Peppermint essential oil mixed in a spray will also work, but not for very long, if you prefer all natural. The Suspend has no odor, and is non-staining. I spray it in Spring, and late Summer.
  45. 1 point
    I talked to Laguna today about the advisability of hosing out the HEPA canister filter. They strongly advised against it saying that the dust on the pleats turns to clay when the water hits it, and basically it will never come off. Good to know, just in case the idea were to cross my mind again. By the way their recommended solution for cleaning the canister while still mounted is as follows. Use compressed air, they said 40 PSI was enough, but I could go 60. But while applying the compressed air hold a ROS with no sandpaper, just rubber pad, against the canister to vibrate it at the same time. They say it works well. Go figure. I will give this a try when this project is over. (I am pretty sure that vibrating the canister will shake it off the mount, so I'll put some block underneath to hold it up).
  46. 1 point
    I built this 10X12 shed in 1998 and stained it with Sherwin Williams solid color stain, just did it again with the same stuff, after 22 years it was due but still looked good, no peeling, put on new shingles last year, it’s like new again.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    When it comes to milling, I miss working in the garage. Then, I could just roll the planer out on the driveway and let the prevailing winds take care of the chips. Advantages of rural living.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    My scrap wood box has been overflowing for a while now, so I spent some time going through it. I did find half a dozen pieces to toss, which is fine... really... I'm sure the shaking will stop soon. Maybe I just need another box.