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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/21 in all areas

  1. If I was fortunate enough to score a chunk of that log it definitely would not go into a live edge or epoxy poured table. I'm so sick of that stuff.
    5 points
  2. I spent all morning chopping dovetails for 4 sets of drawers. I did not donate any blood either, which is always a good thing. LOL
    3 points
  3. waiting for the dimensions on the sink, I starting working on the one and only door. The door panels. curly claro walnut. 1 coat of General semigloss oil.
    3 points
  4. Welcome! This is the bible on wood finishing - https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=finishing+furniture&qid=1611329785&sr=8-12
    2 points
  5. When heat doesn’t work, I turn to the freezer.
    2 points
  6. This is the most spectacular, in both size and beauty, log that I've seen him slice up. I'm not supposed to covet, but... Walnut log
    1 point
  7. IIRC, Mafell in general is a more expensive line of gear than Festool. But then, they have things like the self-driving track saw: https://produkte.mafell.de/en/sawing/portable-panel-saw-system/
    1 point
  8. IF they are too small you may have to put tape around the 5mm metal clips. This would make it tighter to the hole.. I think the hole is waddled out...
    1 point
  9. I agree with Mick, start with Flexner and maybe end there, too. I don't believe he has much to say about spraying, but when you get to it the folks here have a wealth of spraying experience.
    1 point
  10. The curl on the edges would be cut into veneer, I'd use it for door panels or drawer fronts. It seems silly to waste all that wood on a conference table. 95% of people i work with don't know the difference between walnut and oak let alone a slab VS planks.
    1 point
  11. That’s bad when tech support doesn’t have a clue. Doesn’t speak highly. Good look bud!
    1 point
  12. Spanky took us to a Mennonite general store and I bought I think, a 3’x3’ sheet of 1/4” but it is white and not clear. I know that’s a long way to go for plastic.
    1 point
  13. Most finishes are safe once they are fully cured. For some finishes this can be a month or more. Shellac or osmo polyx are good options that are more open about being food safe. Personally my kids never chewed on their cribs so I would have felt safe with anything.
    1 point
  14. Did you take 64 off and look to see if the base has those posts attached through the base?
    1 point
  15. I want to remove the base as well as the springs, and removing the base would allow me to access the springs. The guy I talked to at WEN yesterday called me back this afternoon. He'd been working from home, but was back at work today. He said he and one of the mechanics tried heating and hammering but were unsuccessful at removing the base from the one they tried on. He said there must be some type of heavy duty glue involved, and a reciprocating saw would be his advice. Granted, I don't know how hard they tried, etc., but I was pretty impressed with the callback especially considering it took
    1 point
  16. Alright, no RR tie, but the acrylic is yours if you want it. I forgot to mention that its clear.
    1 point
  17. Got my first covid shot, and rehung kitchen cabinet doors and light fixtures for my grand daughter. Time sure flies when you're having fun
    1 point
  18. Follow up, walnut chairs back from my upholstery guy. Love the green with the walnut. Creating a MCM sitting area/room. Bookcase also made esp for this spot; Hopefully you enjoyed this build, it was a real pleasure figuring out these chairs. My daughter has already put an order in for a set, so much to build........
    1 point
  19. I use a Super dust deputy and vent outside. I can not see any airborne dust outside, regardless of the tool. The only downside, for your neighbors, is that you are also venting a large amount of noise. I don't have close neighbors, but I was curious and found that I could hear my DC from about a 1/4 mile away.
    1 point
  20. A quick followup from the original build. I said I was following up the first 2 chairs made in cherry by making 2 in walnut, well here they are. These walnut chairs went very smoothly as I had developed all my patterns and angles in the previous version. Made a few subtle changes; the back spindles are a little more slender, widened the back lower support, and I did a little more sculpting on the chair trying to soften the look slightly. Today is the day I brought them to my upholstery guy, took a few pics before loading them into the truck. Here are the 2 chairs preupholstery;
    1 point
  21. Lee Valley has three tung oil offerings. They sell a pure tung oil, a polymerized tung oil, and a polymerized tung oil sealer. You can mix the latter two to bring down the high-lustre of polymerized tung oil to something more like the finish of a pure tung oil. I am not sure what polymerization process/additive is used, it is not stated on the can, it might have been on the info sheet. I have used all three on canoe paddles, although I have dropped the pure tung oil for that use. I can get fairly close to the same lustre by mixing the two polymerized, and I have liked the higher lust
    1 point
  22. I use tung oil from Real Milk Paint Co (pure, food-grade, takes 3 days to dry if you're lucky) and I'll second almost everything that Eric shared. I got started using tung oil because it's the finish of choice for bokken (wooden training swords) because you do not want a film finish. I specifically use the Real Milk Paint variant lately because I can also use it for cutting boards and toys for my kid without feeling even slightly weird about it. I don't bother with inert gas. I buy the quart "squirt" bottles, which I find extremely convenient because I can mostly push the air out and I us
    1 point
  23. I'm still in the research phase myself. I'm gonna post a couple PMs that I had with Trip...feels a little weird but I can't think of a reason he'd care. It's good stuff... "Tung oil is a huge subject… A big part of the problem is the common-use definition of Tung-oil has changed through time… You’ve got to be careful with texts like Flexner, Jewett, etc – most of their books are fifteen to twenty years old at this point… The products they use are not formulated the same way they were… In this day and age, you want a Tung oil that dries in a reasonable length of time (read as 24hrs
    1 point
  24. The big draw of the TO is the beautiful, natural look that it gives the wood. Putting a topcoat over it defeats the whole purpose. If it's a piece that will experience very little use, try the TO...by itself. Research it...there's a lot more to know than just wiping on and wiping off. A lot more. I was really surprised how deep the wormhole goes. If, on the other hand, it's a piece that does need protection but you still want a fairly subtle finish, I can't think of a better way to go than a few coats of Arm-R-Seal satin. It will bring out the color and richness in the wood, but it d
    1 point