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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/06/21 in all areas

  1. Final inspection complete. The next phase begins: 2100
    12 points
  2. I don't normally post my videos on here out of respect but, thought you all might get some use out of these. This is my review on the Harvey MG-36 Miter Gauge as well as adding a 0 clearance fence to it.
    8 points
  3. One thing to keep in mind when "trying" to use the tension gauge on your saw is that it's relative to the thickness of the blade. My big bandsaw has a note on the bottom of the gauge that says .019". That means that the gauge is set for blade stock .019" thick. Since I use it almost exclusively for resawing, I keep a 1" blade on it that's .035" thick. That means the gauge is way off for what I normally do with the saw. I have an Iturra blade tension gauge and properly tensioned, the gauge reads almost twice as high as the marks indicate.
    3 points
  4. Bet it’s the rear tire as most are. The front tire kicks it into position to be absorbed by the rear. If it’s the wife’s car, spare yourself and get it fixed now, no pun intended.
    3 points
  5. First steps, sweep up after the contractors, vacuum the control-joint cuts in the slab and seal the cuts and the slab-to-bottom-plate joints. If I get that done today I will feel pretty good as it is several hundred feet of caulking.
    1 point
  6. The lines I see are milling marks. Coarser paper to start would help that.
    1 point
  7. Could’ve been worse! edit: not me, grabbed from google images.
    1 point
  8. Since you are a beginner, I don't recommend getting the extra blades. You won't need the high angle blades unless you're working with expensive figured woods, and the LA plane is not a good choice for that task either, it just doesn't have enough mass. The scraper blade is a PITA to use with this plane, use a card scraper instead. As for the toothed blade, I have one and it does a nice job, but make sure you have a solid workbench with good material holding capabilities before even attempting to use it. As for sharpening, there is a lot of good advice on these forums. I recommend getting
    1 point
  9. I bought this guy and it's helped me get good results on smaller blades. I'm not sure i trust it for 3/4" blades. There i still use the blind guess method. https://www.eztension.com/buy-one-now/eztension-bandsaw-tension-gauge If your using carbide tipped bandsaw blades stay away from Alex Snodgrass's method and use the manufactures method. I have 5 broken carbide tipped blades from using that method.
    1 point
  10. Try this: If tension (and other aspects of setup) are right, the saw will perform much better. One thing many users fail to grasp is that not all bandsaw frames are stiff enough to properly tension a wide blade, also that wide blades are not strictly necessary.
    1 point
  11. Face work, edge work, shooting board were all done with my #5 until I started buying specific task planes. It was and still is a work horse for me. Having said that after about a year I added a #4 then some block planes then specialty planes etc, now after about 6 years I have 20 plus hand planes. Don't get me wrong I will never give up my power tools but I have found the quality of my work has improved noticeably since adding hand tools to the arsenal. I don't change the blade between tasks but with a standard plane you can move the blade in and out to adjust the depth of cut while you w
    1 point
  12. Yeah moving dirt isn't any fun, but it beats a gym membership IMO. Congrats on the the new tools they look like they will treat you well. I still have yet to buy a batter powered router. They do interest me but my only battery system is the old 18V dewalt and they stopped making tools for that system long ago.
    1 point
  13. Little case of the Monday’s today...
    0 points