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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/21 in all areas

  1. What lies behind drawer #1? The underbench cabinet is done .... ... and now the drawers are being filled, starting with the centre drawer in the top row. There are 10 drawers in all, and the aim is to use the space as efficiently as possible. Into this cabinet will be those tools I want close at hand, and to access readily. The centre drawers in the top two rows are for marking tools. The top drawer will be for squares I use all the time. Opening the drawer produces a 300mm Starrett combination square, a 150mm Starrett double square, and a V
    5 points
  2. First pic just shows the holes cut to accept 2" pipe nipples. Used with conduit lock nuts and insulating bushings this creates a pathway between boxes as per the NEC. One is for the feeds between service panels. The other is just in case I need pathway for who-knows-what years from now. The original plan was two ground rods at a set distance. We even drew it that way originally. Current code allows the use of a WWII era technology; a Ufer ground. This is a concrete encased electrode and this is what I went with.
    2 points
  3. More joints sealed and the second service panel added.
    2 points
  4. I never liked most glues for mdf. The medium tended to float and shift even while clamping it together. But this thick stuff sets up fast, the mdf doesn’t float away, and it doesn’t get sucked in like a sponge. A very suitable use for the thick stuff.
    1 point
  5. If you call them natural edge studs you can actually charge more for the house.
    1 point
  6. I think the ARBORTECH Turbo Plane may be what you're looking for.
    1 point
  7. I've never seen that stuff before. I built this coffered ceiling with MDF, and Powergrab-no other fasteners. Coffers are about 4x5 feet, were built in the shop, and put in place with two sheetrock lifts. I'll go to great lengths to avoid sheetrock.
    1 point
  8. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/596009/Craftsman-103-20660.html?page=6#manual This has the parts diagram and parts listing. You might have to dig around to find a current equivalent part number or something else with the same specs, but this should get you started.
    1 point
  9. Face work, edge work, shooting board were all done with my #5 until I started buying specific task planes. It was and still is a work horse for me. Having said that after about a year I added a #4 then some block planes then specialty planes etc, now after about 6 years I have 20 plus hand planes. Don't get me wrong I will never give up my power tools but I have found the quality of my work has improved noticeably since adding hand tools to the arsenal. I don't change the blade between tasks but with a standard plane you can move the blade in and out to adjust the depth of cut while you w
    1 point
  10. These are final pictures of Stage One. "Stage One" - what does that mean? Well, the first step is to build the cabinet under the bench. The second stage will be to fit out the drawers for the tools. I plan to do some of the latter shortly, and some later. I will post these as they are done. For now, here is the underbench cabinet ... The rear, before the back was installed ... The front. The ring pulls are antiqued brass (they are not shiny). I need to work them a little more to remove the still-new look. These were chosen as they drop down and do not project out from the front
    1 point