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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/21 in all areas

  1. I just finished these two nightstands this past weekend. They are made of Sapele and finished with one coat of blond shellac and then I sprayed 3 light coats of General Finishes High Performance. I will be making the bed to go with them but won't get that started until June sometime.
    6 points
  2. Some final contouring and sanding and you’re on your way to some great gifts, just beware they are addictive
    5 points
  3. They are indeed addictive. Thanks to Dave! In between projects, it’s make spurtles time. And when I give them away the ladies always say, thank you very much for the ......? I remind them they are Spurtles!
    2 points
  4. Thanks. Here’s my first attempt with some mineral spirits thrown on. I mistakenly cut the front of the handle when I meant to cut the back. Not done sanding it yet, it feels pretty good in your hand despite it looking like a lumpy potato. Looking back at yours it seems you bring the handle it quite a bit more and curve it a lot nicer. Perhaps that's makes it look longer. I'll try to salvage this one a little more but I do have 6 more blanks left.
    2 points
  5. A lot of folks will take the boards straight from the jointer to glue up and get a perfect joint. My jointer has the blades and not the Helical cutterhead and perhaps that’s the reason I don’t as the edge of my boards end with small chatter marks. I find that after the jointer to insure a flat side, I then go to the table saw with a good blade and get a smoother edge that gives me a better glue line. The joint in your pic is noticeable but due to the closeup, I could also probably take your fingerprints! If at arms length it is acceptable to you, then go with it!
    2 points
  6. I read through the above comments quickly. So, if someone already suggested this, I apologize for the repeat. When prepping boards for a panel glue-up I always alternate face in and face out as I pass them over the jointer. When I have all of the boards layed out on the table the way I want them, I mark them alternatively "in" and "out". Then when I pass them over the jointer, the "in" faces go against the jointer fence and the "out" faces are away from the fence. This compensates for any slight "out of squareness" and makes your joints much tighter. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  7. Turned out nice
    1 point
  8. Very nice Chet!!
    1 point
  9. It's pretty much just as it looks. All the drawer fronts are 3/4" thick. On the top drawer the main panel is 1/2" thick and the frame, mitered at the corners, is 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide. When I cut the pieces for the frame I left them about 1/32" over my 3/4" target width. This left me with just a fuzz of an over hang so I could flush the edge up with the main panel of the drawer front once the glue dried.
    1 point
  10. I've enjoyed making these too, another thanks for posting!
    1 point
  11. Unless your just busting the boards up , no there's not too much pressure. In the cabinet shop many shops don't use a jointer but a glue line rip blade. I used a AMANA glue line rip blade.
    1 point
  12. Yes, Tapatalk is not connected to this forum and does not play nicely with it.
    1 point
  13. If you are referring to the Tapatalk app, it is not related specifically to Woodtalk Online and the owners of this forum have no control over the app. It is a general forum access app that works with the forum software provider. I tried it and hated it. I only access this forum through web browsers. Some people seem to be okay with it.
    1 point
  14. I don’t experience this except on Sunday mornings when the host tends to update the servers. Might help to post in the support sun forum and list what browser and equipment you are using.
    1 point
  15. This. I was trying a new technique I saw a guy using on kitchen cabinets. You cut the plug exactly the same size as you "mortise" then put a small chamfer on the bottom edges of the plug. Then pound it in with a mallet, no glue. It compresses the fibers and gives you a perfect fit. I did about three dry runs on scraps before I committed to the project.
    1 point
  16. Thanks again for all the advice and pictures. I think I can save that one looking at your additional photos. I have a few curly maple and walnut ones glued up that I'll do last. Hoping those turn out really well!
    1 point
  17. Well @sapling111276 I’ll be honest, it could be better I think but it’s not bad IMO, what’s the other side look like? I ask because maybe your edge isn’t square to the face, how long is the board and what’s the length of your joiner ? And welcome back
    1 point
  18. Great job, Chet! I like everything about them. Curious, are those through tenons on the top or decorative plugs, or both?
    1 point
  19. Nothing to technical just a different piece of lumber. The bottom four are all from one piece and Sapele is a lot like Cherry in that it darkens over time. After making the drawer fronts they sat on top of the pile while I worked on other things and got darker then the other four.
    1 point
  20. I got the backs veneered and the dividers. I am now on the painstaking work of trimming up the edging. This gets tricky because I do not want to burn through the veneer. I am using a hand plane and scraper to clean them up.
    1 point
  21. I have 4000K LED's, 7 total and actually like it. I had the same that Richard mentioned above but got tired of the expense of replacement, I thought I like them but really like the warmer light of the 4000K
    1 point
  22. A few accessories from micro fence. Including a couple of mounting bars so I can use the guide on additional routers and a piece to allow the circle jig to ride on a festool rail. In the future I’m going to try and make a few more mounting bars for other routers.
    1 point
  23. I got started adding the edging. I mitered the edges and glued it down. I just used tape as clamps to hold it down. After removing the tape. Same process for the shelves. Here is a little trick when doing miters like this. If you try and glue the piece down while fitting your miters, they always have a tendency to move on you. What I do for this is use titebond quick and thick and glue the edging together making it one piece. Then glue the whole piece into place. Finally got an idea of what this is going to look like.
    1 point