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  1. 2 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Thanks Tom, Mark, and John. I will contact Richmond Woodturners. Today I used @wtnhighlander method of moist heat to loosen both cross members under one of the side chairs. Basically, used old rag towels, moistened, and heated in the microwave in a pyrex glass bowl. I wrapped a hot rag around each of the tenon/joint areas. Took 15-20 minutes for each cross member, but eventually the glue loosened up enough for me to turn the x-member. Front legs came apart enough to remove Sheltie's chew toy. If anyone can date the chairs by logo or pdtn/part/model # 11651910, pic of logo on chair bottom also below.
  4. 1 point
    So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  5. 1 point
    +1! Rope and wedges works miracles for difficult clamping situations!
  6. 1 point
    In the event that you do not have enough [or any] of these, the same sort of clamping action may be accomplished with a wooden wedge or two.................Rick
  7. 1 point
    So i still have that idea itching in the back of my mind for the last table. I really want to make it delicate looking and nail the process. So I ran another test and think i got every thing figured out. First the test so you can see what I didn't like but also what I liked. The center "post" was just WAY to beefy. Further on I went too thin and have since decided the perfect thickness is 3/8". This also showed me that trying to perfectly measure and mark out the kerf width of the band saw blade is an exercise in futility. I determined that it's MUCH easier to make the cuts and measure as i go along. The problem i had with this test is the main bending pieces are not the same thickness and as a result bend slightly different. It's not that noticeable in the picture but the tops toe in towards the center a bit. Starting out my final test piece is going to mimic the size the real piece will be. I calculated that I'll need a 1_1/2" wide piece, 14_1/2" long, and preferably 1/2" thick. The piece below is 1_3/8" and that leaves the center piece a bit thin to my liking. I'm showing this to illustrate how LITTLE wood this takes. Which is sort of dumbfounding to me. I marked center and offset the center 1/8". I marked up 1" from each end and and that represents the line to stop cutting. This is important because uneven stopping points will result in a poor look. I was only marking one side of the board. I used the marks to set the fence and then flip the board over to cut the opposite side. This kept things symetrical and worked a bit faster. It's also critical to work from the center out. Working from the out side towards the center means that you have kerf cuts in your board pressing the board against the fence will close the kerf cuts causing a taper and a cut that isn't parallel. I used white lines to illustrate where the 2 cuts will be. You make the first cut and then flip the board side to side so the same end is getting cut. Or at least for my design i want it this way. Playing with the orientation of the cuts can give different designs and different effects. If you try this experiment it's kind of fun to try out. Below you can see my first 2 cuts. Now we will focus on the end closes to us in the picture above. I measured over from the outside edge of the kerf the thickness i want my bent "slats" to be. For this i chose 1/8". I've found thicker than this doesn't bend very nicely and thinner is too fragile (in my very limited testing). The key for the next cut is to make sure to align the OUTSIDE of the band saw blade with your mark. If you center or use the inside of the blade it will remove material from your slat making it too thin. (I guess it doesn't matter what side of the line you choose as long as you always choose the same side of the line from here on out). The white line above is a bit thick but it shows the idea. Here I'm taking the line as the right side of the white line was my keep side (I used a pencil line to set the fence and added the white line latter for illustration). Make the first cut flip side to side so the end you are first cutting stays the same. Stop at your marked stop line. For the next cuts, which happen to be my final cuts, I measured again from the outside edge of the kerf cut on the opposite end of the board. I measured over 1/8" and extended the line to the end. I then used that line to set my band saw fence. I really should have set my fence to the low position. Next time I'll remember that, well probably not. As you can see the wood is loosing a lot of it's stability accross the face. This is exactly what we want but also illustrates how important it is to work from the inside out. After the cuts are done you have a small piece that looks like some one really messed up on. I'm working on the rail design. Right now I'm leaning to cutting a groove in the top of the bottom rail and the bottom of the top rail. I'll set the side in the groove and glue in spaces that will hold the position of the side in the design that i choose. There is a LOT of flexibility with this. Right now I'm going for something symmetrical but will experiment more in the future. With spaces installed. The small spacers are 1" and the larger spacers are 2 of the smaller spacers so 2". When it comes to actually placing the side the top spacers will need to be a hair longer than 1" as the top has 4 kerf cuts and the bottom has 2 so the top will need to make up that additional material lost. I then had the idea to cut the center piece out because i thought it might look better. Ignore the rough bottom, If i did this method I'd make it just a thin kerf cut instead of a wide one. I don't think this will be my end product. If i widen the center divider by 1/8" it will help separate the 2 sides and will look like 2 arches. Ideally if i was doing a wider table I'd have 3 arches as i prefer sets of 3 but this table is going to be far to narrow to pull that off. What do you think? Pointer, if your band saw has a brake stop the blade before pulling the piece out of the incomplete cut. The sides of the band saw blade can cut the wood a little bit leaving a rougher side and a more jagged looking slat. If you don't have a brake this process might take longer as I advise to let the blade stop. So Mel if you read this proof that a band saw brake has value . I was going to post some pointers for making something like this at the end but I'm tired and forgot what I was going to post. Also my fingers are tired.... this was a lot of typing. Also too long to proofread, I'll probably fill in my pointers tomorrow when i proofread.
  8. 1 point
    I made some 3/8 shelves today. 3/8 shelves: Top 5/8 and middle 3/8 for comparison.
  9. 1 point
    I got the saw till made and installed today. I wanted to minimize how much I had to lift the saw to get it out, since the cabinet's up pretty high. I found that a large dowel in the handle worked, since the two saws that fit here are open handled. I used a rare species of ash, the reclaimed snow shovel handle variety that has dark grain lines. That's what was left over after I scraped off the varnish. The left side of the dowel is threaded onto a piece of all thread that is installed in the cabinet side. I used the thread taps and 1/4-20 all thread. The right side is a support that I wasted about 2 hours carving. Totally unnecessary, but it was fun. The top block is sized to allow the saws to sit with the guards on the blades. I prefer to store them that way. With this in, I realized that I could slip the tenon saw in behind the plane till. Fits perfectly, and I still have room for some miscellaneous stuff. I was looking, and my list of tools without a home is getting much shorter. I need to organize my squares and rulers, and put in the rest of my saws. At that point I should only have a few things left. Although I've almost fallen in the trap of going and buying tools I've been thinking about, so I can fit them in now... A nice set of screwdrivers, some gouges, maybe a shiny new square or two...
  10. 1 point
    This one's a wrap. Very pleased how it turned out and the alterations I made to the Hank chair I think worked well. So let me take a few minutes reviewing the project and giving you my thoughts if you are thinking of purchasing it. The instruction videos were solid, not as detailed as Marc's videos, but still they were good. Jory has an easy way about him and it's amazing how he will go with the flow. He is not really strict about measurements, but he does develop systems that create consistency. He relies on dominos for his joinery and this makes the construction rather straight forward. This lends itself well to alterations to the plan. His template system is neat and really worth learning, I see incorporating this in future projects. I could easily seeing someone take this project and developing other pieces of furniture very easily. I'm already considering a love seat or couch. You could use the same sides or slight variations and just make a longer seat. Another aspect of this build that was very simple, but a new technique for me was the leather seat cushion. I was amazed at how easy this was and I will definitely use this on future chairs. I will say I thought the straight forward joinery with the domino system was not very challenging, and if you follow as it's presented, there really is minimal handtool utilization. Also, Jory uses a router for a lot of stuff, and it is not my favorite tool. I incorporated some handtools in this build, mainly rasp work for some shaping. So those are my thoughts, and now some pics of the final product; This looks like a perfect setting to have a glass of scotch and a nice cigar as two friends debate politics, religion, or sports. Thanks for looking and thanks for following along.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks Rick, it’s a small detail, maybe not worth the trouble but I like the effect, as I mentioned early on in the journal these were not the first ones, they are actually # 8 and 9. the idea for the strip of glass came out of the cherry one I did with rosewood inlay, thought it would look good with glass instead of wood. Here’s the cherry one and oak with dovetails, I do like building them, and like finishing them even better!
  12. 1 point
    There - I've protected myself against future clumsiness. That was actually really simple to do, once I thought about it, and it still works just as well.
  13. 1 point
    I would not attempt to repair the damaged rungs with filler or putty. The results are very unlikely to be satisfactory. Moist heat can sometimes soften wood glue enough to allow disassembly. Or, the rungs might be cut off close to the joint, and the remainder of the round tenon drilled out of the hole. A decent turner should be able to replicate the pattern easily enough. As for the table, a better photo would help. If you know anything about what sort of finish is on it, that information will help someone here provide better advice about correcting the haze. Are these things valuable antiques, or just sentimental keepsakes because your grandparents owned them?
  14. 1 point
    I snuck in a few minutes to knock out a marking gauge rack today. It made sense to me to also put my marking knife, and then I added my most used awl. I like it for the most part, but I'm debating how I feel about the marking knife blade being out like that. When I went to grab the gauge beside it, my instinct was to grab from underneath near the blade. If it's possible to stab myself on this thing I'll find a way. That's why you'll see most of my tools have blade covers.
  15. 1 point
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual
  16. 1 point
    This works for handheld power planers too. That's really how I started setting knives this way. Way back when I first started, I bought several type of dial indicator holders for setting jointer, and planer knives, but the trouble with them is finding exactly where top dead center is, which is a time wasting hunt. I get better surface finish results on wood, which is really what should matter, with this method, than I ever did with dial indicators. I haven't used those things in decades. If you ask me how many thousandths proud the knives are of the outfeed table, or if they're flush, I don't know, and I don't care. I only care about results, and wasting no time getting to those results. When you are getting set up to change knives, run the infeed table up to where the depth indicator reads zero, and the outfeed table up flush with that, if you have moved it, or think maybe you did since the last knife change. Otherwise, you end up having to fiddle with the indicator later, of live with it being off. If both my jointers were in the same place, I'd keep one for general use, and one for finishing. These will take over general duty pretty soon, and it won't be long after that that I will probably drop the outfeed table a hair.
  17. 1 point
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  18. 1 point
    FINAL PICTURES We are done building the side table. Here are pictures (taken with my iPhone6). The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? And this one is for Bill, who was concerned that the chamfers at the end of the drawers (to ease entry into the case) might impair their extension ... A last look ... Thursday morning I haul the table to the Perth Wood Show for the annual furniture competition. Wish me luck. Regards from Perth Derek
  19. 1 point
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Drew and Bmac , happy to show a side shot @Bmac
  21. 1 point
    not real common Drew, but there are those of us who appreciate a fine stogie at the end of a long day, I'm curious to see how it does at the silent auction, not for everyone but if you get a couple of guys that want it who knows what they will pay
  22. 1 point
    Derek awesome craftsmanship as always!! Great piece! Man is that going to pop with some finish on it.
  23. 1 point
    Really nice work!
  24. 1 point
    Derek, when you get the finish on that, those drawer fronts are going to dazzle. Beautuiful work as usual.
  25. 1 point
    I finished gluing all the doors over the last few days. It mostly went well, although my parts seem to have had some minor sizing discrepancies. As a result, I'll need to plane or sand them to eliminate it. Not a big deal, just annoying. I was happy with how the dovetails cleaned up though. I needed a break from the main case, so I've started on the drawers. I glued up a pile of my maple scraps to get the backs and sides, then planed them down. I also got my drawer fronts cut to size. I'm really happy I found this board for it. Next up is getting back to dovetails for the drawers. I'm debating whether to bother with half blinds, or just do another set of through dovetails.
  26. 1 point
    Sign in a Ford dealer in 1971- Shop Rates- $25 per hour $50 per hour if you watch $100 per hour if you help
  27. 1 point
    Really cool look, I like it, very unique. So if I follow correctly, you cut your 8 degree taper before turning, then you turned, shaped and glued. Didn't see the flat glue surface in the pictures you took of the turned legs but I assume they are there. Very nice and I'm really enjoying the build.
  28. 1 point
    I'm going to call this one done. I've mounted most of the the tools that are going to live in this thing. I still have plenty of room for growth, and the front of the outer doors are still very rough. The plan is to carve some panels for those, but given that I've never done a lot of carving, I should learn to to do that first! I've been watching some of Mary May's videos, so over the next few months I'll get to it. Anyway here it is:
  29. 1 point
    Well written and documented. Thank you.
  30. 1 point
    Well, that explains your ability to explain the details of your woodwork in a way that most of us can understand!
  31. 1 point
    Getting better by the minute!
  32. 1 point
    Nicely done and documented. I like it.
  33. 1 point
    Still liking what you are doing.
  34. 1 point
    I’m in on this one as well Derek, wishing someday I will get to your level of skill, beautiful work sir!
  35. 1 point
    Not a problem Derek. I did a round over on dovetails on a bench, I really liked the look.
  36. 1 point
    You always make my day when you post a project. A question: do you plan to leave the dovetails proud? That might be an interesting look.
  37. 1 point
    Beautiful work! I would be very nervous the deeper and more invested I got into the project. And the demand of incredible precision would be hard on my well being. I will watch and appreciate your exotic skills. Thanks for sharing!
  38. 1 point
    Another great journal going here Derek! Thanks for taking us along I always pick up tips from your postings. This looks to be a really neat piece with some interesting challenges.
  39. 1 point
    Thanks all. Bench was a hit. The birthday boy has been ‘flushing the LEGO men down the toilet’ (i.e, putting them in the dog holes’.) ...still better than video games. Closeup of the bench crafted hi-vise turned mini-leg vise. Can’t say a bad thing about the product. Wow it’s well made. About the finish. While the chop is wipe on poly, I wrapped up the actual bench the day before, so I just wiped on walnut oil from the grocery store. The pine soaked it up and it dried overnight. No fumes. No smell. A great finish in a pinch to take the ‘raw’ look out of the lumber. Included a quick vid of me using the #8 to flatten the top. That, and traversing with my jack plane It made quick work of it.
  40. 1 point
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  41. 1 point
    Thanks for all of the suggestions and discussion! I've attached how it ended up - I like it! Now if only the finish made the crotch figure look like Marc's (also attached)... (I even used the same finish and technique (though apparently not haha)!).
  42. 1 point
    Bench is now finished! I acutually finished the construction about 1 month ago, and have already finished another project using the bench. The only part that I still needed to finish was the chop, because I had some decoration to do on it. Final dimensions are 79 1/2" long x 25 1/4" wide by 35" tall. I didn't make a sliding deadman as I don't do projects that really require it, but I did route in the groove in the front slab in case I decide to make one in the future, so it will be easy to add if needed. As a present for finally finishing, I bought myself a Veritas BU Smoothing Plane to finish the chop. It is very satisfying to use. I also bought the front knob and tote to convert my LABP into a little smoother. This is a great upgrade Here are some details of the chop. I went with a gothic theme, and bonus points to whomever can identify the symbol (it's not religious or political or anything like that...): Anyway, that it. This was a fun build, and again I'd like to thank everyone else on here who posted their builds as it made mine much easier. Art
  43. 1 point
    I'm sure the mitre joints would be fun, but I had enough trouble getting good results on normal through dovetails. With where I am, building this at all should be skill building. I used the router to clean up the pins and it was amazing. So much easier and faster than chiseling everything, although I felt like I was cheating. The joints came together pretty well. By the end of the evening, I had a dry assembled case. Next up is the lower support, which gets a mortise and tenon into the sides.
  44. 1 point
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  45. 1 point
    I forgot to add that when I make an extra stupid mistake in the shop I like to spend a few minutes just thinking about the hows & whys of it & then come up with some better practices so that it will be less likely to happen again.
  46. 1 point
    I'd tear the whole garage down, build it adjoining the house, make the ridge the same height as the other end, and same roof slope, with a matching hip. You could make it as wide as you wanted to. Draw 24', and see what it looks like.
  47. 1 point
    I've been a lurker here for years reading posts and soaking up knowledge, but I rarely post. I recently took on a project that I felt was well above my skill level, and I learned a lot form it. This post is meant primarily to encourage those who feel they don't have the "right tools" or the skills to go ahead and give it a shot anyway. You'll surprise yourself with what you can do. A bit about me, I am by no means a pro. During college I worked as a framer for about 6 months before my fear of heights got the better of me. I then got a job via classified ad (that'll date me) for a finish carpenter. When I called the number on the ad, the guy asked me only a few questions; 1.) Do you own reliable transportation? 2.) Do you own the following tools: table saw, compound mitre saw, jig saw, router, palm sander, air compressor, nail guns...the list goes on and on. 3.) Can you start tomorrow? I did own a vehicle (that couldn't fit all the tools needed) , I could start the next day, but I didn't own any tools other than framing hand tools (but I said I had them). I went out that night and convinced my young bride that dropping a load of money on these tools for the job was a good idea. So I did. I showed up the next day with a car load of new tools (not the nicest) I'd never used and proceeded to get an education. I had no idea what I was doing, but I made some money and loved the job. I did finish work for about 3 years to put me through school, and that is the extent of my woodworking experience. Fastforward 11 years since I left woodworking to park my butt in the cockpit of a jet for a living, and my wife called upon me to jump into the way-back machine, dust off my tools and build her a new kitchen. I foolishly said okay. This project included gutting our existing kitchen, removing walls and ceiling, rewiring and new pluming, so It was more than just a new cabinet build. Apologies for the mess in the foreground/background. I have kids...and they are messy. Kitchen before: Kitchen after: Loos smaller than before, but the wall to the left includes the pantry with didn't exist before. All in all we gained a lot more usable cabinet space than we previously had. The peninsula with the oven (far left of kitchen) used to have a floor to ceiling wall behind it that blocked the dinning room (where my ladder is sitting), so we lost the upper cabinets there. We doubled the width of the island and added storage on the back and also added 3 feet to the length. Various Details - Vent Hood Back of Island Pantry wall with faux beams Dovetail maple drawers Anyway, that's the gist of it. If I can do it, anyone can. So go ahead and jump in and start something. Reading blogs and watching videos online is great and motivating, but nothing beats making sawdust (and mistakes) in the shop. I may post construction pictures and techniques if there is interest. This was a fun and occasionally frustrating project that took about 6 months from beginning of demolition to finished product.
  48. 1 point
    I’ve always had an interest in building, fixing and DIY. Our family would spend 3 months a year in a very remote fishing village in SE Alaska, so maintaining/building/fixing seems to run in the family DNA. In 2009, we bought our first home – right off a busy street, but super close to my work. It had been a rental for 30+ years before we bought, so there were LOTS of projects… I made cabinet doors, cased windows (so many windows...), remodeled our wood stair case with new pine treads and risers, built a deck, built a bed for one of the kids, and many other projects. Projects need tools, which then allow you to build more projects. I also built tall mirror frames, and other finish pieces for the family. I discovered a passion for woodworking during that time – it relaxes me, and lets me use my hands to create. We also had 2 kids, and about 2 years ago, we decided to sell and move a little way out of the city so the kids could play outside and we wouldn’t have to hear traffic. In early 2016, we bought a new house situated on a little over an acre. Part of the move was to give space for a shop, so I could continue to tinker, create and build, and allowing the Wife to park in the garage for the first time in our 9 year marriage (sorry Babe, just a few more weeks). Once the transaction closed on the new property, we started getting quotes and figuring out what needed to happen to enable to the shop to be built. I had some ideas about what I wanted: 24x36’, 864 sqft. Big enough to park in if necessary, and still have a mostly functioning shop space. Pole building (for cost) Tall interior ceiling height with limited interior roof framing to cast shadows and interfere with work. We’ve elected to go with a shed style roof with glu-lams/LVL's so there’s minimal interior roof structure hanging down to cast shadows and interfere with tall work. The low side will be about 9’ on the inside, while the tall side will be around 15’. Single garage door, I didn’t to lose wall space, and I am not planning to park inside it anyway. I’m also concerned about preventing theft, so minimizing the number of potential entry points was high on my list. My design ideas were influenced by Frank Howarth’s shop, ideas from BubbaEstes’ build, as well as other shops I’ve seen on here and other places, along with our own needs and desires for how the shop should sit on our property, and what we want to do in it. Getting ready to build has taken a year, and we signed our building contract back in June. We had to take care of some septic requirements, namely getting a reserve drainfield identified, having test holes dug, and inspected (“yep, those are holes”). We also had to get some electrical work done, like replacing the panel, setting up for a generator and the shop sub-panel. We were warned to expect the permit process to last for 4-5 months: it was completed in less than 3 weeks. Everyone from the inspectors to the builder were shocked by the speed. In the middle of November, our site prep was completed. One of our main concerns was maintaining the forested nature of our lot: we didn’t want to remove many trees. We took down a couple of tall, thin trees which I'm pretty sure were cherry, a fir, a cedar, and a decent sized maple… the maple will become a Roubo bench someday, and I’ve got a small pile of cherry logs waiting for me to chainsaw mill them down to size. The guy with the excavator did a phenomenal job – the site is cleared and graded for drainage, and he laid down a layer of crushed asphalt as a building pad. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the asphalt compacts down - it's REALLY solid under foot. We called the builder on 4 December to let them know our site prep was complete, and they told me to expect materials deliveries beginning on Monday 11 December. That same evening (one week early), a guy pulled up in our driveway and dropped off our steel entry door for the shop… Then on Thursday at 6:45 am while at work, I got a phone call from a truck driver, asking where I wanted him to leave the metal panels. By end of the day Thursday, most of the building materials were organized strategically about the site, 3 days early. Construction starts the week of 18 December. I'll keep posting updates and pictures of the build over the next few weeks. Here we go… J
  49. 1 point
    I've got 3 fileing cabinets that were made for storing rows of punch cards. Great for hardware now but they were brutally heavy to get up the stairs to put them in the loft.
  50. 1 point
    I thought about the webcam, but the Christmas prep, the last minute log move and life in general just got in the way... I didn't have time to do the research and make it happen. I'm off work all next week, and I'll be able to post pictures more frequently. Thanks for the tip on curling the bucket - I tried that, but between the log being pear shaped, and my general lack of excavator skill, I found it easier to strap the dang thing to the bucket with the 15000 lb tow straps. I slabbed up the knuckle where the branches splay out on the bandsaw on Saturday - I'm hoping the rest of the log is as awesome as this part is.