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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/17/19 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    Loving the fact that Coop just posted a great Maloof Low Back Chair. Always happy to see other sculptured pieces on here. Just finished this Walnut Maloof Rocker, as I've stated before, my hands down favorite all time woodworking project. This is my third rocker and my first in walnut. I started this rocker the last week in April, and it was a double build, meaning I am building 2 at the same time. The other rocker is cherry and it's still in the shop waiting for final assembly and final sanding. For those that have done these, you know that final sanding is no small or simple step. My sanding goes to 400 grit before applying finish and I use 0000 steel wool to apply a few coats of the finish. My finish of preference is 3 coats oil/poly mix followed by 2 coats oil/wax mix. Didn't use Osmo for this rocker, but I will likely try that on a rocker in the future. This build went very smoothly, minimal issues. I've have some small details I'm learning to refine with this build, I'll try to point out those small details, but for the most part it looks like most other Maloof rockers. Countless times I've looked up this rocker online and through other venues, and it's easy to make this piece look clunky. I've seen it done with flawless woodworking technique, but it didn't look organic, flowing, or inviting. Hopefully you don't think that when you look at this piece. A perfect pose, the rocker next to a Maloof style table with a Maloof book to inspire you. A few details I like in these rockers. First, I really like the horns, these are time consuming to develop, but worth it in my opinion. Die grinder does a lot of the work, then a lot of scraping and sanding; The crest of the head rest needs to flow into the front of the horn, you can see the line from the front edge of the horn detail blend into the top edge of the head rest. Head rest and horn from the front, again a line that needs to flow; The underside of the headrest to back leg is also an area that takes a lot of work to blend. A rasp and a lot of hand sanding is the only way to get this done. I like the middle of the headrest to project down, I like this look much better than the continuous sweep you see in a lot of the rockers; This side view of the head rest shows the sweep and contours; The arm to back leg joint is pretty straight forward and easy to shape. Key is to make it look fluid and continuous. The interesting part of this joint is on the inside. This is a common feature seen in the original chair that is often duplicated. This gives the look as if the arm was carved from the back leg. The arm to front leg joint takes a lot of work, as you have end grain and long grain you are blending together. I don't like the big paddle shaped arms you often see on most of these rockers. I like a more narrow arm and with it converging more as it approaches the back leg. The shaping of the arm is a lot of work also, but Marc does a great job in his build guiding one through the process. So much is made of the leg to seat joint in this piece. I find that to be pretty straight forward when you use the paired router bits. Shaping these joints are harder than doing the joint. And this by far is the toughest area to shape. Finally, the leg to rocker joints. The joints that give me the biggest pucker factor. Drilling thru the rocker into the back leg, after you have spent weeks on the chair is the absolute most tense moment of this build. The good thing is after you have shaped the whole chair, shaping the legs to the rocker is one of the easiest areas to shape. The detail I add in the front is from Marc's build and I like it, you leave a little extra in front of the leg to converge that excess into a point, sweeping up from the underside and in from the sides. Thanks for looking.
  2. 14 points
    Here is the piece I have been working on these last few weeks. (Thanks again to those who helped me with a couple of urgent matters that arose). I have a few name ideas I'm considering, but haven't settled on one yet. I plan to take this to the American Association of Woodturners meeting later this month, so I have a little time on that. Technique is the same as I have described before, although this time I cut back the sides to slim the pillars and accentuate the shape.
  3. 13 points
    I started this a good while back but chose not to do a build on it as I figured it might go into the fire pit at anytime during the build and it came close several times. My daughter asked for a chair for her desk and I have always wanted to try it so I gave it a go. Initially it was going to be built from some walnut I cut and dried and I figured I would do a prototype from some cherry. After several months of wrestling with it, I don’t foresee a walnut chair in the future. Plans were ordered from Charles Brock and I picked up several pointers from Marc’s rocking chair build. Three coats of ARS glossy and three coats of GF top coat. The only places I’m not real pleased with are the arm to leg joints.
  4. 12 points
    Fairly simple monitor riser I made for my desk at work. I used a lot of suggestions from you guys on this project. All in all this simple thing took an incredible amount of time. Not only because life has been extremely busy which makes getting shop time hard but because I am apparently just a slow woodworker. I would love to just chalk my slowness up me always trying new techniques and joinery for the first time but if I am honest with myself I just don't have a very fast pace. But I suppose the slow pace is a good percent of the enjoyment for me. I have a stressful job and two young kids so I am "GO GO GO" all the time. Getting to take her easy in the shop is often needed. So if you can't tell from the angle this is red oak. Specifically it is that really wide board on top of the pile. That was about 11" wide. I got that pile for $100 from some guy on OfferUp. It was a really good deal that I felt that I could not pass up, but I am actually not that big of a fan of red oak. I find the natural color to be a bit bleh and I really don't like the tiger stripe effect that happens when staining red oak. But I have a pile of it so I decided that I just need to find a way to like it. I only have a 6" jointer so the only way to flatten this board with my current set of tools will be by hand. I just needed to get one side flat enough to run through the planer. This board has some challenges. It is cupped and bowed. Not only bowed but bowed in two directions, kind of like a very subtle letter "S". It also has reversing grain. Boy was I in over my head here. I have never tried to flatten a board this wide, and I have never tried to flatten a board this long. But I have the tools to do it so I grabbed my scrub plane and got after it. I tried and tried to get this darn board flat across it's entire length but I just have not quite developed the skill to do that on such a long wide board. What I ended up doing was cutting the board shorter. A shorter board is easier to flatten than a long board. My intent was for this riser to be around 70" long, I had to throw that out the window if I wanted to use this board. But I got it done eventually. I used the table saw to cut the miters, I taped them real good to create a tape hinge. The clamping setup was a bit awkward and I actually applied a little too much clamping pressure and pulled the tape hinge on one side open just a bit. I hit you guys on these forums up on what to do to fix it. You guys gave me the burnisher technique which worked like a charm. Thanks for that everyone. While the glue was drying on the miters I milled and fit the "front". I cut the angles by hand just to see if I could do it (I also had plenty of red oak in case I screwed it up) and to my surprise it worked great. For the dividers/supports I wanted to use a dado joint instead of just a butt joint....you know.....because I'm fancy. I also wanted to try cutting these by hand all Derek Cohen style. Now I don't have Derek's Azbiki saw. And I don't have Derek's cool magnetic saw guide. Nor do I have his experience. Or skill. Or know how. So needless to say these did not turn out quite as nice as Derek's hand cut dados do in his build journals. But they turned out ok. One was just a bit tighter than I would have liked. The other one was a bit looser than I would have liked. Both of them were not as clean as I would have liked. But these are on the underside so who cares. They are solid and look good from the front. I had left these supports/dividers a bit long so I needed to trim them down. I decided that cutting these by hand would be much quicker than pulling out my table saw and cleaning it off so taking great care I marked the line and got to cutting. This is a longish cut to do free hand for me so I was nervous about it. I wanted to cheat and cut on the waste side of the line by a lot then just plain down to the line, but Chrisopher Shwarz (my favorite woodworker.......and spirit animal) says that "If you can see the line, you can cut to the line, any line." So I put on my big boy pants and gave it shot. Turned out not too bad. Just had to clean them up a little bit with the plane. Why am I including such a small detail like cutting a couple of boards? I'm not sure why but these cuts were a big deal to me. For me, half the joy of woodworking is learning the skills. So being able to free hand a long cut like this meant a lot to me. I'm far from an expert or anything close to being an expert but pulling off this cut was the proof in the pudding that I am learning the skills. You know the whole dopamine reward of setting a goal for yourself and achieving it thing. This was one of those small things that meant a lot. Glued in the dividers and glued on the front. Now I need to figure out how to finish this red oak in a way that I would not hate it. I decided I wanted to try tinting shellac. So I went to Woodcraft and bought some shellac flakes and some Transtint dye. Then I went to a thrift store and got super lucky, the first thrift store I went to had a digital food scale, a coffee grinder and glass jars. Now to teach myself how to shellac! I tried lots of different combinations on some scraps. I tried using a sealer coat then the dyed shellac over that. I tried using just dyed shellac. Shellac with just a little bit of dye. Shellac with lots and lots of dye. Just about all of these combinations ended up with tiger striping. I took all these samples to work to see which would look best with my desk. I was not trying to match my desk I just wanted a color/tone that would compliment it. And you know what combination looked the best? No combination. Just regular amber shellac with no dye at all. Shellac has a bit of a learning curve but I think I got it. I wish this picture did this justice. The amber shellac makes this red oak glow. So I think I may have found a way to like red oak after all. Which is good because I have a lot of it. Last I am adding a slot for cable management. Doing this after finishing was a huge mistake. I was so nervous the whole time that I was going to scratch the crap out of it. But I was extremely careful and got through it without incident. Chopped out the waste with a chisel. Then hit the whole thing with steel wool then finally a coat of wax. I don't remember where I heard that you should wax everything but I am so glad that I heard it. Wax just makes whatever finish I do better. And with that I was done. Just needed to bring it to work and take some glamour shots. So here they are. Thanks for checking out this small build. Of course suggestions and criticisms are welcome, just be gentle I have a fragile ego.
  5. 11 points
    Finished up the Fremont File Cabinet this morning. More hours in it than I had anticipated, but I'm happy with the results and I learned a great deal. Thanks to Marc and Darrell for the great video and detailed Guild build!
  6. 10 points
  7. 10 points
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  8. 10 points
    I am starting a project that I have been thinking about for years and for different reasons have been putting of. My Dad served in WWII in the Navy and my Father in law was a career Navy man and veteran of WWII, Korea And Viet Nam. I have both of there flags and have wanted to build cases for them both but really wanted to do something a different from the normal looking cases. I have spent a lot of time thinking about this and worrying that I would finish them and then come up with a better idea... time wasted sort of. Then this last November my youngest sister lost her husband in a car accident. He also spent four years in the Navy and then almost 40 more working as a government employee with the Navy in weapons development and that is all he could tell us. All three of them were true God and Country men. When my sister asked me to make a case for his flag I figured it was time to get of my duff and do all three at once. I have come up with some design ideas and made a couple of proto types out of poplar to kind of work out the details and to see if what was in my head would actually look good and work. All three will be the same and made out of Sapele. I went to the lumber yard today and got this really nice of 8/4, 10 inches by 12 feet piece. Did my rough layout and then broke it down using my jigsaw. Then over to the band saw to rip it to rough width and then resew it to rough thickness. After that I sticker it all and I am going t let it set for a few days to see if it wants to move in any way. I honestly don't think it will, while I was breaking it down to this point I didn't get the feeling I was releasing and tension. But you never know.
  9. 9 points
    I received for my Birthday, from my to younger grandkids a gift card to my lumber yard. They told their mom they wanted to give "Paga" some wood to build something with. My daughter told them that I should pick the wood out myself but that they could get me a gift card from the lumber yard. When they went in they were told that they didn't have gift cards but the guy at the counter went over and cut them a piece of pine and told them to give that to me and tell me what it was for.
  10. 9 points
    I was planning to next post with the completed Harlequin Side table, however it has been two steps forward and one back. Selecting the drawer fronts .. well, I've cut and recut them a few times, and only now satisfied with the result. It is no small deal each time since a drawer front has to be fitted into a recess that is shaped like a parallelogram. And if the fit is not good enough ... well, a few would-be drawer fronts were discarded. What parts are needed? Well, the drawer sides are 1/4" thick - too thin for grooves, so there will be slips to support the drawer bottom. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I use frequently, as it is a light wood that allows the drawer fronts to be shown to their best, and it is available quarter sawn. The drawer back will also be Tassie Oak. The drawer bottoms are solid wood and 1/4" thick. Rather than use Tasmanian Oak, I thought I would add a little life with Tasmanian Blue Gum. It is quite similar is texture and tone (although the photos here do not show this), but has more figure. Enough here for 8 drawers ... Drawer sides and drawer fronts ... Great sander ... Mirka Ceros ... These will be the drawer bottoms. The board in the centre is the Hard Maple case back ... Do you think anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? The making of the drawer slips may have some interest. I used Tasmanian Blue Gum (because it links to the drawer bottoms). This is quite interlocked and any planing with a plough to form either grooves or beads would be expected to end unhappily, with much tearout. I have posted this tip before: add a 15 degree backbevel to all plough blades to create a high 60 degree cutting angle. The 3/16" beads were ploughed with the Veritas Combination Plane ... Brilliant finish ... ... and a 1/8" groove for the rebate in the drawer bottom was ploughed by the Veritas Small Plow ... Again, tearout free ... This is a mock up of the intersection of the drawer front (back), drawer side into drawer slip and against a drawer side ... Note that the drawer front is straight/flat at this stage but, once dovetailed, they will be shaped to curve along the bow front of the case. These are the timbers I have chosen for the drawer fronts. This is what gives the side table the harlequin name. Three timbers: Black Walnut, a pink Jarrah, and figured Hard Maple. Keep in mind that there is no finish at this stage ... Next time hopefully with everything completed. Regards from Perth Derek
  11. 9 points
    I restored this Stanley 112 Scraper from what was called a "basket case" It was just hidden under surface rust and crud. I love these scrapers, as well tuned they are great at giving an alternative to sandpaper on figured wood. If anyone is interested in seeing the others, I'll post them too. I've been doing this for 25 years and as I just got back into woodworking after a long break; I have been getting planes and so forth to restore.
  12. 8 points
    One of Megan's friends wanted an outdoor connect four game made. She sent me a picture and it looked easy enough so i said sure. The construction is pretty simple but became very tedious very quickly. I used a hole saw to drill out the game board from 1/4" pine ply. Using a 3.5" hole saw with a hand drill was not very fun and the drill caught a lot and beat me up quite a bit. The main structure is 1/4" ply sandwiching some slats that separate off the rows. I used some random hardwood, i honestly have no idea what it is, to make the internal structure as well as the legs. The next part was to make the game pieces. Again hole saw but this time 4" and i used my drill press. I had some 1/2" birch ply that was waste from making some drawers. I quickly learned that stacking pieces of ply would decrease the time it took to cut these out. I also figured out that if you position the hole saw so that part of the saw goes over the edge it clears the saw dust from the kerf and the saw cuts a lot more efficiently. Another trick is to drill a hole in the kerf. I hit the edges with a chamfer bit and gave them a quick sand. Followed with some paint. The project materials were requested to be lower in quality and painted. I wanted the whole thing to come apart for easy storage or transport. This was an interesting solution and i just borrowed some ques from the table top game. I used some thread taps to tap4 1/4"-20 holes and then mounted 2 bolts on either side. On the leg i drilled a 1/2" hole and then cut a slot on my router table. i think this is called a keyhole or something.... I used a chisel to remove some material towards the hole so there is a taper that pulls the sides in and sort of locks them in place. It works well, you can pick up the whole thing and the legs don't fall off but are easy to remove. The dump function was the most difficult part and I'm not sure that i did so well with it. If it doesn't work I'll offer to redo it but this was the best option i could think of that didn't use hinges and a catch. I didn't want to put any more money into this than i had to as it's more of a gift than something I'll ever make money on. After stainless steel fasteners material and finish I'm probably loosing on this deal anyway. It's simple and mimics what i used for the legs. It's not as easy to use as i hoped but it's not bad. Finish was some medium brown trans fast dye applied with HVLP and then 4 coats of Minwax spar urethane water borne formula. I don't much like this finish as it gives the dye and wood a green cast. Maybe it just needs to dry fully. I will probably use the rest of the can on junk projects and there is a good change it'll just get tossed. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918584 I wanted to use General Finishes exterior 450 but their distribution network sucks, Rockler was closed and a 30 min drive so i use minwax products.
  13. 8 points
    Still no video put together but here are a few shots of the current status. The ebony "pegs" on the lower doors (actually drawer fronts) are just electrical tape I used to play with different arrangements for the real ones. If anyone follows Darell Peart on IG you may have seen his posts about updating his finishing process since he did the Fremont Night Stand guild project. He's trying to get away from ARS and VOC's in general to a safer and less toxic process. He posted that he was going to Livos Kunos oils, specifically cocobolo for the color and natural as a topcoat. I took his word for it and tried it on this project. All I can say is wow. Very simple to use and great results. I still need to attach the "door" fronts to the file drawers and make the pulls, then it's just detailing it and putting finish on the rest of the piece.
  14. 7 points
    The bench shoe rack is glued up with a coat of finish on it now. Pretty happy with it! Thanks for the finishing advice. If only I had better lighting for pictures..
  15. 7 points
    Dry fit went well and I've already got half the parts glued up and prefinished. Hoping to do the final assembly tomorrow. It's made of walnut (that i bought for dirt cheap on Fb marketplace. That is the greatest way to buy anything used these days). The dowels or spindles I made of maple. I'm pretty excited! It's an awful fancy shoe rack!
  16. 7 points
    As I mentioned before, one of these flag cases is for my sister" husband's flag. So besides making the case I thought I would do a photo album of the process for her and her family, so you may see some pictures of steps that most of us know and normally I would not include. Having said that, after letting things sit for a handful of days the first thing I did was mill the pieces for the two sides and bottom of each case. I surfaced one face on the jointer the planed to final thickness, after that then did a light pass through the drum sander on each side just in case there is some minuscule snip that I missed. I very rarely get any off the planer but with the drum sander right there its an easy step to take, then back to the jointer to joint one edge and finally cut to final width on the table saw. The off cut will be used later down the road for other parts. Next on the table saw with my cross cut sled I squared up one end of each side piece. Then using my miter gauge and setting the blade to 45 degrees, I cut the other end on the side pieces and both ends on the bottom. Ending up with three sets that look like this. Instead of using the traditional miter joints for the three corners of the case I an using box joints. I was looking for something that was different from the norm and decided to give this a try. I am cutting the box joints on my router. Using the jig that came with the router for such tasks I clamped the three right side pieces and a backer board and made the cuts with a 3/8 inch up spiral bit. Then I did the same thing for the left side pieces and made the mating cuts. Then I did the same thing on the mitered ends using a jig I made to hold the pieces at 45 degrees to the table. I used the same jig to cut the mating ends on the base piece, flipping the base piece end for end to make the second pass. I had to hit a few spots with a rasp to persuade the fit. First dry fit. I used some blue tape to hold each case together so I could pass them through the drum sander to flush all the edges so everything would be on the same plane when I cut the rabbets for the back of the case.
  17. 7 points
    The case was completed last time ... ... but before the drawer dividers can be permanently installed, the legs need to be made and attached. This was the original drawing ... Some has been retained and some has been changed. Instead of curved legs, which I later decided did not match the overall style, I decided on round, tapered legs that will splay out from the case. Before turning the legs, the splay was created by tapering the top of the legs on the table saw. The slider uses a Fritz and Frans jig to rip the end at the chosen angle (8 degrees). This ensured that the splay angle would be the same for all legs. The blanks were then turned to shape. Here I am checking that the near-to-finished legs are the same dimensions and have the same taper angle ... The ends were then cut off and the top was shaped with rasps and sandpaper ... How to attach the legs? Well, that had given me a real headache. I was thinking along the lines of a loose tenon ... overcomplicating matters (as usual). A number suggested simply glueing and screwing. I was skeptical, but of course, a glue joint alone is generally stronger than the wood ... and reason prevailed There are three screws per leg, which were countersunk for the drawers. The glue chosen was Titebond III. All cleaned up, this is what we have (drumroll) ... The splay to the side is 8 degree, and from the sides, the legs are aligned with the front and rear of the case. Drawers next Regards from Perth Derek
  18. 7 points
    I have had this small cart that I built for my first lunchbox planer. Then I got the Dewalt 735 and modified the cart to make it work for the new jointer, then I move the jointer and had to make some modifications to make it work in the new location. Needless to say it was becoming a real Frankenstein of a cart and it was small and just a bit top heavy. The other thing that was creeping into my shop was a handful of Festool Systainers. So this last Saturday I decided to remedy both problems with one project. One sheet of pre-finished plywood and six sets of drawer glides later I had this. I tried everything out with the end of my scraps from my dining table build from last year. So at the end of the day I had this. Then this afternoon with some plywood scraps I made this little rack for my sanding discs. I still have to get some finish on it but I used up what little I had on the trim of the planer cabinet. I hung it on the side of the cabinet that hold the drum sander and all my other sanding supplies. I used a french cleat to hang it.
  19. 6 points
    You know that feeling: Driving along and you spot some discarded logs on the side of the road and then your friends roll their eyes as you pull over to look through the pile and then they pretend not to know you as you open the hatchback? Yup, in this case, I found what I'm guessing is box elder. In fairness, I've pulled some dried blanks from the pile and pushed them across the finish line as gifts over the past several months. That said, I have neither the space nor the time in the shop for a round of rough bowl blanking. That said, I couldn't just leave them there and it's going to be a long night.
  20. 6 points
    My buddy, Carl helped me get it inside this afternoon.
  21. 6 points
    This chair has taken awhile to get into with a busy schedule and trying to finish up the 2 rockers. My walnut rocker is done and I'll post a few photos of that. For the Hank chairs, this has been sort of a "soft" start. I got the pieces cut for the sides of 2 chairs. My second chair was going to be another species but I ended up defaulting back to walnut, as I had some perfect stock for this. Once the 3 pieces that make up the sides were rough cut to size, I moved on to creating clean joint surfaces. To do this we start with our template. I made extra templates and cut one in 3 pieces. The cut line were you cut the template in pieces is the joint line and the angle you cut is not critical, it just needs to be consistent. Here's a picture again of the templates; The 3 smaller pieces were cut roughly along the lines shown on the full size template. These were just cut on the bandsaw and don't need to match the original identically, but the key is the pieces match up. You take those pieces to the table saw and Jory make sleds to do the cutting. Start with a piece of plywood with parallel sides and position your template on the plywood; The cut line needs to line up perfectly with the edge of the sled; Next screw on a straight edge to for a fence; Now you have a sled to cut consistent angles. That works well and is so easy. That sled was made for the arm part of the chair. Next moved on the the legs and I decided to try the incra miter gauge. The angle for the arm was too harsh to use this method; Once positioned perfectly against the blade I locked in the angle on the miter gauge; Instant reproducible cut, like I said we aren't worried about measuring the angle, we just need to match the template. Simple enough and all cuts completed in no time; Next mark your domino placement; So my next step will be to bore my domino holes, dry fit and make some clamping culls to pull the pieces together along the long axis of the joint, then glue up. But I'll need to save that job for another day. The template/sled concept is interesting. The imagination is about the only thing that limits you in your design. Thanks for looking.
  22. 6 points
    Coop, I think you should embrace the curves and flowing lines, you look like a natural, great job. Absolutely love the grain in your seat. Looks like you were able to get all that stock from a wide board? Your seat/leg joints look real nice and I do like the outline you developed on the side of the seat. That seat outline is a little more pronounced than the outlines I've done and I might steal that. You did a great job with sculpting your first piece. Having done a few of those chairs, I know that front leg to arm joint is tough. You have very little leg length to play with as you blend and shape the two together. If you look at your second picture, that is the pic that shows it at it's less than ideal angle. If you reduced/slenderized the leg more below that joint you probably could have gotten a little better sculpted profile. But that's being really picky. Bottomline, that's a great job and a chair to be proud of!
  23. 6 points
    Collin, take the mating piece to any good hardware store like your local Ace if you’re fortunate enough to still have one and I bet they can pair you up. Most of the folks at HD and Lowe’s probably worked at Waffle House last week and don’t have a clue.
  24. 6 points
    Working through some dried blanks. This bowl is 10 5/8" diameter, 5 1/2" height and will be gifted to a birthday girl next month. Basic, twelve-segment rim of cherry upon a body of honey locust. This is all I was able to salvage from a tree taken down in the church's memorial garden back in 2017. I blocked off a whole afternoon with a pile of downed logs, thinking that I'd score some bowl blanks and maybe even a few long cuttings for lumber. Silly me. Honey locust is a bit off the beaten path as lumber goes and it's a trick to work. Apart from the blazing yellow color in the sapwood, it's a brownish ring porous domestic that could be mistaken for oak or ash. And then you try to split it with a wedge. And you try. And try. And you find that locust is not only magnificently dense and hard, it's also ridiculously interlocked. My 10 lb sledge bounced off this wood and I swear I could hear dryads laughing in the distance. After exhausting myself, I contented myself with a single bowl blank and a lesson well learned. Once dry, it turned just fine, responding perfectly well to a small gouge, a scraper, and a round carbide hollower.
  25. 6 points
    I just finished restoring this Stanley 25 low angle transitional plane. It was in very bad shape with lots of pitting; I had to get another blade as the one that came with it was unusable. I was pleasantly surprised that it took such a nice shaving beings this type of plane has no chip breaker.
  26. 6 points
    Well, started setting up for the second time and just looking at the top I can see a big difference. The t-tracks top bevels are narrower and more uniformed and the throat plate opening is not jagged and sharp either. You can see the flatness is now more of what I would expect too, happy now.
  27. 6 points
    This puppy is done! Lots of mistakes but I'm happier with this than anything else I've ever made. For me it was a skill building project and it succeeded in that respect. You can really see the trim tearout and sanding scuffing from trying to fix it up here.
  28. 5 points
    I've now got glued up drawers with bottoms in them. I couldn't be bothered doing solid wood bottoms when I had a sheet of 1/4" Baltic birch in my way, so that's what I used. I also put in finger pulls along the top edge. These give enough clearance for my fingers, since Matt's measurements didn't work for me. You can also see the hinges I got. They're heavy duty continuous hinges in stainless steel. Unfortunately Amazon decided to only send 3 out of 4, so I may not be hanging the doors until next week.
  29. 5 points
    These drawers were my first time doing half bind dovetails, aside from the condor tails on the Roubo. I marked them out carefully and used the drill press to hog out the waste. I had to modify my fence to allow the bit closer in, so that I could use it to set the distance to place the bit on the baseline. This drill press clamp is fantastic, especially for repetitive operations like this. After that, I went to the bench to chop out the waste, starting with the board flat and then finishing with it vertical in the leg vise. Not sure if this is the recommended procedure, but it worked for me. I was pretty satisfied with the fit I had on these. I found them a little fiddly, but not nearly as bad as I expected. I cleaned up the pins on the back of the drawer as well and I've now got drawers. These need a groove for the bottom and a finger pull and they're done. I was originally going to use inset ring pulls, but I didn't leave the fronts thick enough, so I think I'll just put a notch for a finger at the top instead.
  30. 5 points
    In for about a month, still unpacking. I’ve got a bigger space with better lighting and power options. Still fairly low ceilings, but once I’m properly settled, I’m looking forward to having tools far enough apart to help keep things a bit cleaner.
  31. 5 points
    Well I was able to get the table saw downstairs. The top came off fairly easily, just the 4 outer bolts the instruction manual tells you to loosen to adjust it. Then I also had to back off the fine adjustment screws on the rear and it came right off. After that I strapped it to my handtruck, laid it down on it's back and removed much of the mobile base from the underside. Then just brought it down the stairs. Now I just have to reassemble everything and go back through all the alignment and such.
  32. 5 points
    So I’ve been working on a hutch to go with the bench. It’s taking time as I’m just slow these days, plus other projects get in front of it. But I have the frame made, the drawers made (all dovetailed for my first attempt) and am closing in on the details. This hutch will have lots of room for all the paraphernalia and supplies needed for reloading plus space for books and miscellaneous other stuff, so I think it’s gonna work out well. I’m sort of “designing-as-you-go” on assembly, despite having made drawings ahead of time. I’m trying to use scraps but that makes it somewhat difficult when you need a certain size for a certain piece. But it’s coming along.
  33. 5 points
    I built these two for a spare bedroom about four years ago, I think the cherry is about as dark as it’s going to get, walnut tops but you get the look
  34. 5 points
    I don't know anything about the finish you are using but I'd pare the droplet off with a sharp chisel, sand the area flat, scuff the entire object and give it a light coat being careful not to do this again. When i finish the game boards i make (pictured below) I spray finish in the holes witch leaves a raised area around them. I let the poly dry and then sand it flat with 400 grit. I do a single coat on top of that.
  35. 5 points
    Thanks much. One of the trickier details was fitting the doors to the cloud lift arch. trying to get the consistent reveal all the way around took some thought. Here's how I wound up doing it. I first matched the upper door rail to the bottom of the cloud lift and clamped it in place with the spacers I use for the offset. Then I added the right stile, again with the offset, then the bottom (no offset spacer which gave me room to trim), just working my way around. That method worked out really well. Once all four pieces were in place I scribed the panel to fit and added in the offset for the dado. The back of the panel had to be flush with the back of the frame since the actual drawer fronts are attached to it.
  36. 5 points
    In the end I went with Coop's suggestion and used the router table. I lined up the fence with the previous groove, then used paper to space it over 10 thou. That made all the difference to the fit. It only took me about 20 minutes to set up and run them all through. I also added a tiny chamfer on the edge of the panel going in the groove, so they'd slide in easier.
  37. 5 points
    A frustrating Sunday: I began installing the horizontal divider/drawer blade, and my spatial confusion (or lack of concentration) kicked in. In went the divider ... upside down! Well, fortunately it jammed half-way and could not be glued in ... Knocking it out, however, caused the rear section of the panel (it is made of three boards) to break off. It was glued back again, but the panel needed to dry before starting again, and so I lost my Sunday afternoon. This table is destined for the Perth Wood Show at the start of August, and I am already battling with time as weekends are generally all that are available for woodworking. Fortunately, I had this afternoon (Monday) off from my practice, and had a couple of hours to try and catch up a little. The glue dried, and the panel was fine. It was sanded to 240 grit, and then installed. Ditto the side dividers. All went smoothly ... all lined up and everything is square. Clearly I have been a good boy The reason why the table is termed "Harlequin" is that the drawers will be a mix of different timbers: Black Walnut (x3), Figured Hard Maple (x2) (both from the USA), and Tasmanian Blue Gum (x3) (which is local, of course). The drawer fronts all curve, and I spent the last part of the afternoon cutting out the Walnut blanks. This will will give you an idea of the effect .. Unless someone is interested in a walk through in dovetailing on the curve (which I have posted here previously), the next images will be the completed table. Regards from Perth Derek
  38. 5 points
    Been kept busy by an always fun project, Maloof Rockers, 2 of them. One for my house and one for a Christmas present. Always good to do chair projects in twos, at least in my in my opinion. Since you do special cuts/joints, once you are set up for those it makes things go much faster. I started these the last week in April, but with my HS baseball team making the State playoffs, two kids graduating ( one each from HS and college), and general life they have taken alittle longer. These are my third and fourth Mallof Rockers I've built and I think I have it down to about 1 month. I really should show a build of one of these rockers as I've developed a few shortcuts and time saving techniques. Now that I'm wrapping those up, I'm moving to the Hank chair, or at least getting prep work done. Finished the templates for the 2 sides. Made some changes to the original template, added some width to the arm and drew in my curves. Then I made 2 copies of that before cutting out the curves; Here's the cut out curvy one overlaying my full size template; I'll use the full sized curved template to rough shape the side piece once assembled and then use a pattern router bit to get both identical to the final curved template. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's the stock I plan to use. Jory loves to use the cheaper stock with knots, sapwood and other imperfections, I plan to do the same; That wood has been air dried 3 years and has been stickered in the shop for the past 6 months. I run a dehumidifier in my shop and that stock is sitting at 8-9%. Here are my pieces to construct the sides, oversized and jointed on the surfaces that go against the fence of the homemade sleds I need to make; Before I make the sleds I think I'm going to make this a double build so next on tap next I need to get pieces for that second chair roughed out. I'm going to go with a different species for the other chair, thinking maple. Need to pull my stock of maple to see what I have. Cherry is another option for the second chair. I do have some hickory and white oak but that needs some more time to season. What is nice with this build is you can use up scraps since the pieces aren't that large, I've got a ton of 8/4 scraps. Of course with my luck the pieces are always an inch too short or an inch too narrow to use!
  39. 5 points
    One last shot of the bar top. Client was thrilled with the color. Regarding the 'center mount' drawer slides - we chose them to save as much horizontal space for the column of skinny drawers as possible. The big pull-out for the trash can got 2. They work well enough, but the skinny drawers wobbled from side to side. So, I added hard maple spacer strips under the edges of each drawer box to keep them level and steady. The close tolerance added friction, so I used petroleum jelly (ala John Heiz) to keep them sliding smoothly. But then, what else WOULD one use to lubricate one's wood?
  40. 5 points
    I was recently changing blades on my Jet bandsaw and finding it a pain to squirm behind the machine to pull the power plug. Jet power switches have a pin tract for inserting a pad lock shackle. So I came up with this highly engineered solution. The device is manufactured from hard to find (it was at the bottom of the scrap bin) 3/16" oak dowel. This is the cut to some precise length by eye-chrometer. The ends are then conically machined (in a pencil sharpener) and the whole meticulously hand colored (with a Sharpie). As you can see I have limited stock and when they're gone they're gone (I don't have any more dowel). So in the spirit of One Time Tools I am letting these go for the ridiculous price of 2.71828 Australian Guineas, each!
  41. 4 points
    I've been playing hooky from my Hank Chair build. First I'm having trouble getting into that build, second I hand to order a few router bits, and thirdly I think I have ADD. Well, while I was waiting on my order of router bits to arrive, I pulled down a framework I had made for a surfboard. I had put it together awhile back but the wood I planned to use for the project still needed some drying time. I milled 3 paulownia logs this past year specifically for this project. It dried real fast, but needed a few warm months to fully season. I milled it in Dec, and 2 weeks ago it was down to 12%. I started messing around with the frame and before I knew it I was knee deep into the build. And this build took up my whole shop, since it's a longboard, approx 10 ft. No room for the Hank chair. I thought this would be an interesting build to show, and even though I didn't take a ton of photos, here goes. First, I've been doing a lot of research on building a board. There are a few techniques, all resulting in a hollow board to reduce weight. Wood needs to be light and paulownia fits the bill perfectly. For those who have never worked with this wood it is an absolute pleasure to work with. Tools easily, bends well, and is SUPER light. I was originally planning to do this build with my son, but he is living at the beach this summer where jobs are plentiful. I plan to do the build and we plan to glass and finish the board together down at the beach. To start the build you create what they call the spar, it's basically a skeleton framework that the shell is attached to. I used 3/8" plywood for this. I bought a pattern for the spar. Printed it and glued it to the plywood, cut it out and shaped it. The skeleton was rather flimsy and did not have a lot of surface area to glue the deck boards to, so I supplemented the gluing surfaces with 3/8" paulownia strips. Here's what that looks like; High spots were leveled off and then I started laminating the deck. Starting with the center board, I worked out to the edges. I used Titebond 3, this was the recommended glue. The decking was just under 3/8" thick stock, resawn from the 6/4 boards I milled. The info I researched said 3/8' for balsa and 1/4" for paulownia, I split the difference. Here's the top deck roughed out and glued on; The plan calls for a relatively flat top deck and a curved underside. The curve on the underside is referred to as the rocker, here's the board ready for the underside, gluing up the last of the paulownia supplemental glue strips; Here's the underside completed, walnut accent like the top; From the side profile you can appreciate the curve of the rocker; Now it's a matter of squaring up the sides and start gluing on strips to form the rails. The rails are laminated pieces you glue to the sides that will be rounded off. I started with one solid strip and now I'm adding a decorative strip of walnut: Adding these strips have made me appreciate the number of clamps I own; The plan also calls for a fin, here's what I came up with; Where I'm at now is I need to finish gluing up the rails, shape them, add the front and back pieces that will make up the front and tail of the board. Final shaping and sanding is last. Once at that step you need to glass the board, which is adding fiberglass sheets to the board, epoxy will be used for this step. After glassing you add the fin, that is epoxied and glassed on separately, and then the whole board is sealed with a layer of epoxy. This is completely new territory for me so doing it at the beach seems best as there are a bunch of surf shops around in case my son and I need help. One other necessity with a hollow board it to install a vent. This is so if the board is sitting in the sun it won't heat up internally and start to delaminate or crack. I'm going to use a goretex vent that doubles as a leash attachment. I've glued a backer board on the inside for this and we'll install this after the glassing also. Thanks for looking.
  42. 4 points
    First, welcome. Second, the router you listed does appear to include a plunge base. A round baseplate is not necessary, as the circle jig appears to attach to the router frame in place of the baseplate. Any straight cutting bit can cut your circles, bit IMO a spiral bit leaves the cleanest cut. If you use a downward cut spiral, and a waste board under the workpiece, you can achieve cuts with almost no splintering or tear out. I suggest cutting each pass at a depth no greater than 1/2 the bit diameter. Taking larger bites risks overheating and/or breaking the bit. Also, you can save some cash and just use a strip of plywood to replace the circle jig.
  43. 4 points
    After rough sanding the dovetails flush, the gaps don’t look as bad. I filled a couple of them with slivers of cherry, but left the others. I also cut the rails and stiles to final dimension and cut the grooves for the door panels. I picked out stock for the door panels and resawed them on the table saw and then planed down to ~1/4”. I left them long so that I can pick section I want for the panels. I’ll use dominos on the door assemblies and glue up clamped to the case for alignment. Afterward I’ll plane flush and set the gap. Then on to the drawers.
  44. 4 points
  45. 4 points
    I spared you all my miserable progress on day 1 and 2 . New location. I had to gather up a bunch of the stock that I had been stashing at friend's and relative's homes. I had probably overstayed my welcome but, made up for it with the usual trinkets we woodworkers find to gift folks with so, all seems well. When no one was looking I appropriated one wall of a storage shed out back. I built a similar vertical storage rig to those that I "placed" at the previously mentioned friend's and relatives homes. I promised to go back and remove them . . . It is only partially full and the trailer is almost empty. I am hoping those two situations balance out in the end .
  46. 4 points
    Yes I was sweating but all Spanky did was push buttons with a fan blowing on him... Someone had to do the work..
  47. 4 points
    I don’t know anything about spraying finish, just wanted to say congratulations on getting some work it was a long road for you and hope the work keeps coming in, always good to see someone succeed at the craft
  48. 4 points
    All internal door parts and panels are now sanded. The first door is glued up. I'm so glad I loosened the panels or this would have been very stressful. It went together fine, and I've clamped it to the main case. For some reason it's about 1/32 bigger, but that can be planed away. I suspect one of my setups was a tiny bit off between the two.
  49. 4 points
    That explains those bumps that pop up when I'm working with red oak.
  50. 4 points
    I made this from cherry a couple of years ago for my office. I used 1/4” bead board for the back and painted it what I called Amish green for a lack of better description. Sorry I don’t have a better view of the color of the back.