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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/19 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches to work out. also need to put plugs in and work those areas. Front leg area the tougher than the back area. Cannot be shy or hesitant, there is a lot of material to remove in the front leg to seat joint area; You can see here I have a little less width in the leg at the joint than above or below joint, I'll need to work on that; Also started rounding the underside of the front part of seat; Still need to work this area to make it look thinner; Flow to back legs look good, minimal work left here; Here you can see the side "wings" or extensions coming up from the seat and joint, want to make them flow and be mirror images of each other whether its side to side or top to bottom; So now I can glue on the arms and when I get back to this I'll be working this area; Finishing up the front legs took me 2 more hrs so I'm sitting at 27 total hrs. Believe it or not it may seem like I'm moving but there is a lot of work ahead of me still. Thanks for looking.
  2. 6 points
    It finally arrived. Can't start the assembly or mounting quite yet since the "how-to" video won't be ready for a few days but heare it is..... www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR I have never seen anything quite so well packaged as this. I will peel back a few layers for you...... This is the plexiglass face plate - The gears will be visible when ti's all assembled. Also the 2 screws. Remove the plate and pull out a couple of styrofoam plugs..... Remove the plastic bags fo parts and the back of the vise is visible. Now to get some maple 8/4 maple for the jaw. This is the smallest of his 3 vises - 16" from screw to screw. I figure that the jaw will be 18" long. Plan to mount it as a front vise. Should look something like this when its done. I may take a few pics along the way but the assembly process will be on line. Will definetly review that ease or dificulties of the build and what I think of the vise. LInk: www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR Stand-by.....................
  3. 5 points
    When I built my router table this was one of my goals. I'm going to add handles to the tray of bits to make it removable. I found the little plastic inserts At woodline.com.
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    I enjoyed the work. I wish I could have convinced the client not to stain. I would have liked it more.
  6. 2 points
    That's good to know, hadn't thought about carvers, but don't mimic everything you see someone else doing.
  7. 2 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  8. 2 points
    I tried a few other adhesives including ones marketed for plastic with no luck bonding the magnets and limited luck attaching a block of wood for the magnets to be screwed into. But mechanical attachement works. Trick was to replace the rubber pad on the lower jaw of the clamp with a bit of ply and screw through the jaw attaching cup magnets.
  9. 2 points
    Good luck! The OP isn’t around now, but there are many skilled and knowledgeable people here if you have further questions about this project or others. Stick around and post your results!
  10. 2 points
    I did this to my scroll saw base.
  11. 2 points
    If you want to see some serious bending, check out Engles Coach Shop
  12. 2 points
    Bmac, the Houston Boy’s may wear different underwear than the country boy’s.
  13. 2 points
    In fairness to Robert, his machine is the older version and has some history with him. Not sure where his was manufactured but, mine was in Taiwan. Because of his history with this particular saw, this seems like a pretty good deal for somebody.
  14. 2 points
    Client dropped by and helped me stack the unit. They gave me an order for a matching desk! They must have liked it. The ladies present gave lots of oos and ahhhs. Orders are the equivalent of oxygen for me.
  15. 1 point
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 1 point
    Starting a thread for those that might be interested in a supermax sander. I figured if someone wanted to post a future sale here as well it might help those that are looking. I was talking to Woodcraft and the salesman dropped a very strong hint that the Supermax 16-32 will be on sale starting Feb 1st 2018 for $999
  17. 1 point
    I'd pull the pin.. You'd have to do that to change the blade anyway and I'm guessing they're going to have you do that in the trouble shooting process. Probably better to know before the call.
  18. 1 point
    Shannon's latest Lumber Industry Update podcast talks all about this. Check it out.
  19. 1 point
    I've got fingers crossed for you young'un.
  20. 1 point
    The new table saw has arrived.. I only unpacked it this far to check for any shipping damage.. PM's authorized rep can do the rest..
  21. 1 point
    Sold them locally on CL. Thanks!
  22. 1 point
    The pulleys are a special type for the Reeves drive.
  23. 1 point
    Probably the only thing left to do is to get a label maker and put marks on the board to identify some of the bits by for example angle and width as in dovetail, and a few others by their features as a number do not have this info stamped on the shaft.
  24. 1 point
    White Oak outside in Florida is bad. I made a door that mildew would get under the finish. I removed the finish and treated the wood as prescribed. Failed. Did it again. Failed. The cell structure of the wood which is different from other oaks is the problem. And Florida. It took 6 months to see it and 2 years it got so bad you had to do something. I remade the door using sapele. I call it African mahogany. No failure after 3 years.
  25. 1 point
    For the power strip, search amazon (or whatever you prefer) for recessed power strip. There are a lot of styles and options. The vertical post is two pieces of wood glued together. Before gluing them together, a channel was cut down the center to give space for the power cord, then a hole is cut through the face of one of the boards to insert the power strip into. You could also use 4 thinner boards to make a hollow post, but then you either have to make long mitered corners or have the endgrain showing on some of the sides.
  26. 1 point
    Believe it or not, they just spread; sometimes through a washer or an escutcheon. I believe Garrett Hack does this for the small drawers inside his small wall-mounted cabinet… Let me see if I can find a link. Subscription required for the video but, here's a snip.
  27. 1 point
    Well it has a lot to do with practice. First time I sculpted something it didn't go as nearly fast! Now do we need to talk about your underwear choices?
  28. 1 point
    Good questions, I didn't really cover this when I went over that. The jig I use is limited, will sand at max 3" wide laminates. But it works well enough to not have to go out and get a drum sander. First thing is that the plan calls for 3/16" thick laminates, 6 per rocker. In the past I've used 1/4" with no problem on other rockers. These laminates after sanding measured in slightly below 1/4" and I used 5 laminates per rocker instead of 6, rockers measured out 1 1/8" thick once out of the glueup jig, about what you get with 6 laminates at 3/16". I don't think there is more of a problem going thinner, if anything there will be less chance of breaking if thinner. Breaking would be more a problem the thicker the laminates. The curve on these rockers is not extreme. In other projects where I've done bent lamination where the curve was more extreme I went thinner than this, less than or at 3/16". One thing that I pay a lot of attention to with the laminates is straight grain. Irregular grain or knots are more vulnerable to breaking. I use exclusively air dried lumber, except with this build. This build is KD Maple I got from Spanky. This is one reason I tried to get the laminates below 1/4" because my belief is KD is less forgiving when bending. This lumber worked out great for this, bent very easily and no issues. I don't have as much curly figure in these rockers, picked lumber with less curly figure thinking it would bend better, but that was based on nothing more than an uneducated guess.
  29. 1 point
    Still have plenty of work left. I need to make the deadman, create the gap stop, ease the edges, figure out a temporary bottom shelf, and apply some sort of finish. The gap between the slabs is larger than Marc's and my plan is to make the gapstop large enough in a way that tools can be stored there but that they will sit below the bench surface.
  30. 1 point
    FWW has some really good articles & plans on workbenches, many of them not Roubo (horrors! I can already feel the flames).
  31. 1 point
    The cedar will last a long time but not forever. Use ipe. It will go longer than cedar. But if you are real old the cedar may be forever.
  32. 1 point
    I like your caster idea. Here's a couple of thoughts for your consideration. If you have the space, position the lathe so you can work from the backside (poor man's reverse), or at least get access to the back for cleaning, so you don't have to move it as often. I would make my drawers so that they are easily removed (just pull out). No matter how well they close they will gather up dust and chips, so might as well make it easy to empty and clean.
  33. 1 point
    I don't have any specific experience with Delta lathes, so no idea if the price is good. But a couple of comments; most you probably know. It's a Reeves drive which is not necessarily bad (Powermatic uses it on its drill press), but you need to check it out. What is the speed range? I didn't see a banjo or tool rest in the pictures, but you want to make sure they're included. What size post on the tool rest? You can get various sizes, but one inch is kinda standard. MT sizes? MT2 is kinda standard. This model has a rotating headstock. This is a valuable feature, but also introduces some possible errors. Check that the headstock is secure when locked and that it is perfectly aligned with the tailstock. Then rotate the headstock out, check the security, return to neutral and re-check alignment with head stock. Check all the other clamp and lock mechanisms, etc. Bed flat and straight? That's what I can think of with one cup of coffee.
  34. 1 point
    I have a Grizzly one that collects dust because I tend to use the shop made one more often.
  35. 1 point
    I’d say it’s at least a few grand...
  36. 1 point
    Honestly there are FAR too many variables to say Xhp will work. With a well setup efficient system a 1.5hp DC could be enough for a 1 man shop. 2hp would make things a lot easier. 3hp is enough to run 2 4" machines at once. 5hp is big enough to run 2 6" machines at once. 4" and 6" are the dust port size. If you minimize flex hose and move from tool to tool I don't doubt that collector would capture as much dust as a 4" port could collect.The 570 CFM is with 2" WC pressure drop on the hose so that assumes probably 10 feet of flex.Less flex hose is less pressure which is more suction. I have a 3hp gorilla pro their hepa filters are good and efficient.
  37. 1 point
    How many times have I heard that? Kev, you have as much space in front of your Kapex as I have in my shop.
  38. 1 point
    That's an interesting question. I think when sculpting I don't look at the joint or the grain, I just try to see the curve or silhouette. Look at the silhouette and feel it with your hand, that helps a lot.
  39. 1 point
    That's what I said, but my wife's not buying it.
  40. 1 point
    I have a punch list to work on now. Then the finish work...
  41. 1 point
    Here's my final review on the PM2000B - This video isn't public yet but, thought I'd give you guys the first look. https://youtu.be/qARex9vM_Lo
  42. 1 point
    I use old paint thinner by using it for the initial wash, then a wash with fresh thinner, then I work in a big blob of dish soap, rinsing well. It actually seems to get the last finish residue better than just using paint thinner alone. I collect the spent mineral spirits in an old thinner container. When it gets full, I take it to a recycling facility.
  43. 1 point
    Mineral spirits and a comb works. For paint & finish waste, I mix it with wood shavings and let it dry, then bag it for the trash. Our local landfill will accept most any type of finish as long as it has cured.
  44. 1 point
    With the face on and the 2 adjustable shelves. Other than finishing and a few details, I am starting on the 2 tops. Some very nice 8/4.
  45. 1 point
    I'm going to avoid the cnc topic as that's something that's been talked about many times. As far as 3d printers go, up until very recently I was in the camp that had absolutely no interest. I couldn't see any need for it and figured they were too slow to bother with. I like to do power carving and like the Arbortech Turboplane. Anyone who has used one of these things knows they make an awful mess if you use them indoors. Arbortech is supposed to be coming out with dust collection for it, but they've opted to make their own grinder and the dust collection attachment only fits that grinder and you have to buy the whole kit. It's not going to be available in the US until sometime next year, which means at least part of the winter with weather that prevents doing anything outside. There's no official US pricing, but based on what I've seen in other countries it's going to be $250. I already have a nice Metabo grinder to use with it that I really like. So I did the math and decided that a $180 3d printer would pay for itself just by making a dust collection attachment for the grinder I already have. Plus I get a new tool in bargain. So for the past week I've been playing around with designing this attachment starting from getting a ring to fit the keyed slots in the mount for the guard on the grinder on up to a functioning item. The CAD part of it was frustrating at first, as I was dealing with trying to do things I've never done before in a program I'm not familiar with. But I enjoy the problem solving side of things. Getting to try something out and then be able to remake the whole part just by tweaking the design and hitting a button is really nice. I'm willing to try things out where I would have long since run out of time and patience with the whole thing if I had to fabricate it myself. At this point I have something that kinda works but I think it could be much better. I'm at a back to the drawing board point to try something completely different and that would never happen without the 3d printer to do all the actual fabricating. It does take a very long time to print the whole attachment, around 18 hours. But to be able to tweak the design in an hour or so and then press a button and the next day I just have the thing ready to try out is very nice. Making this thing isn't my goal. The goal is to use it to do the thing I actually want to do more easily. I have a cnc machine, but I don't use it to replace my power carving. The 3d printer isn't going to replace making anything out of wood. The computerized stuff just does some of things I don't want to do or am not able to do. Oh and as far as Marc goes, he already has 3d models of the furniture he makes. He could use a 3d printer to make dollhouse sized version of the things he builds for Ava with next to zero effort.
  46. 1 point
    Gee-dub, Thanks for the idea. Next time I have work that gets me working on the floor I will make some knock down tables first. Knock down puts me over the top. I have no room for fixtures that do not knock down. Making some progress...Shelves and 2 tops to make. The base unit is far more than half the work. And bench work agrees with me compared to on the floor with the drawers.
  47. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  48. 1 point
    Be careful what you 'almost' wish for. I certainly did not have long to wait.
  49. 1 point
    So I was going through the Snodgrass routine and got to thinking more about that blade guard. Although it seemed intentionally loose, there is a spring that holds the blade guard to one side, there just didn't seem to be any purpose to making it that way. Spent some time looking at the mechanism more closely and found two recessed screws in the back. Sure enough they were loose and sure enough they were 4mm allen. I guess that the factory had neither files nor 4mm allen wrenches the day they made this unit. Anyway tightening the two screws solved the problem. Took out the shim.
  50. 1 point
    I would also recommend the Woodslicer, but I also have the Laguna Resaw King and it is an awesome blade for resawing.