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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/19 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    We went to our Christmas in the park the other night and year after year it continues to concern me that Santa isn't providing any safety upgrades for the elves in his work shop. This is just one example - the saw has no riving knife or blade guard. Also there doesn't seem to be any form of dust collection, but maybe inhaling candy cane dust isn't harmful to you lungs. I does appear that he does have a push stick.
  2. 5 points
    I've been making some Christmas presents, little hand launch helicopter toys you see them at stores usually made of plastic. Anyway I had to make the first one with my array of rasps and files it took hours to make my first prototype it worked great but, I'm making 10 so I made a jig to support the propeller securely and bought a Shinto rasp holy crap this thing does an amazing job for $20+ I've only been using the fine side of the rasp and it hog off the material rapidly between the jig and, rasp I'm getting 1 propeller sanded and, ready for the dowel in less then a 1/2 hr. The rasp leaves a consistently flat surface and a smooth face very little sanding, I've seen these around forever, I'm a believer now!
  3. 5 points
    I’m still trying to verify without asking
  4. 4 points
    I don't think 'cheap' and 'soft close' have ever been used in the same sentence...
  5. 3 points
    I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  6. 3 points
    These must be stealth copters, I don't see any pictures.
  7. 3 points
    I have been waiting for my turn to arrive at the upholsters and finally took it in last Thursday and should have it back in the next 2 or 3 days. In the mean time my son in law was able to get the pivot and adjustment pins done for me. Even this took a while because his company was moving to a new location and putting some new machines in. So as it happened they used my pins to test the set up of a couple of machines. I am still deciding whether to go with the present finish or do a brushed finish. I am leaning toward brushed, I am wondering if the present finish would look to flashy. What is your opinions? Here are a few pictures and the final results of the pins.
  8. 3 points
    Is that like walking into a Mercedes dealership and saying "I want to see the cheapest car you have"?
  9. 3 points
    Of course if you guys did move you might be able to get out of building those dinning room chairs .
  10. 3 points
    Remember that a thickness planer is not designed to flatten a board. It only makes the two faces parallel. A jointer is generally needed to create a flat surface. You can get by with the thickness planer if you fasten the board to a known flat 'sled', like a piece of mdf, and shim under the high spots of the board so that it doesn't rock. Take very light cuts until the top face checks flat with a straightedge and or winding sticks. Then remove the sled and run the board through with the flat face against the beds.
  11. 3 points
    Winner was John Frederickson of California.. Coop worked hard at trying to bribe the judges though!
  12. 3 points
    Maybe if i used black instead of grey
  13. 2 points
    Call OSHSA, right now. This kind of abuse just cannot continue.
  14. 2 points
    Drop it off at my place i can make sure that doesn't happen. Especially as I'm using every excuse to not work on the chairs.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    To be honest I find it refreshing to see that two people will do what it takes to make a marriage work, congrats to you both!!
  17. 2 points
    And to think, those two are only 30 years old between them.
  18. 2 points
    +1, I am also a believer. Great for sculpted items a-la Maloof. A good compliment to your other rasps and shaping tools.
  19. 2 points
    good to know. A few days ago I was looking for my rasp and could not find it. So there is one on my list. I just ordered it. Thanks!
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    Kev, please tell me the Houston Boy didn’t win the ruler giveaway?
  22. 2 points
    Trouble is that there are so many more way to do something wrong than to do something right.
  23. 2 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  24. 1 point
    Sawstop Inline Router Table My wonderful wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday next week so I obliged with a list. She recognized the Sawstop name and ordered the 27” x 16” inline router table and dust box to replace my shop built router table I’ve been using for years. It arrived yesterday, so you know where I’ve been today. I’ll bore you with a little of my background. I’m retired from 30+ years in the woodworking machinery business, starting with the types of tools all of us here are familiar with - upscale hobbyist to small production shop woodworking stuff. From there I moved on to heavy industrial production machinery and finally to specializing in industrial CNC equipment before retiring a few years ago. I’ve also been a lifelong hobbyist. With that out of the way… Impressions I’ve said it here and other places, but I’ll say it again. I’ve never, ever seen a company do a better job of making it as easy as possible for a consumer to understand and assemble their product than Sawstop. Any machine, any level, and I’ve probably assembled many hundreds. From packaging to manuals, they do it right. Here’s an example. Four of the five boxes inside the large (very heavy duty) shipping box contained a note indicating that the manual was in a separate box. The manual was in the fifth box with the cast iron router table.The manual is 62 pages of photos with detailed explanations of what hardware to use where. Each bag was labelled with the assembly it went to. When I unpacked the router table itself I noticed what looked like a scratch in the cast iron. Sure enough, it was. Then I noticed that there was an identical scratch on the opposite edge - for lining up the fence to the center of the bit. Devil in the details. This thing is really, really solid, really well built, end to end. The surface is flat using a Starrett 36” straightedge. I could not see light below the edge. The fence body is a very heavy anodized extrusion with integral dust port, side to side adjustment and T-slots for accessories. They include (hard to describe) T-slot spacer shims that let you use the fence like a jointer by offsetting the right and left fence faces. The fence itself is perfect for a table saw installation. On and off takes seconds, 90 degrees square to the table with a Starrett combination square. The extrusion looks almost identical to the JessEm Mast-R-Fence II extrusion other than the anodizing color. It differs in the way the fence faces slide side to side in T-tracks on the Sawstop vs in slots in the extrusion itself on the JessEm. It also mounts directly to the table rather to the side tracks on the JessEm. The router mount plate has 10 (10!) leveling bolts with lock nuts for precisely adjusting it to the table surface. The legs seem significantly beefier than the legs that came with the saw. The leg mounting brackets definitely are. It includes a paddle switch that the router plugs into, as well as holders for the tools like insert ring wrenches, height adjustment tool, etc. Installation It took more time to remove the old router table than to install the new one. It took about 2 hours to assemble and install the new table. That included disconnecting the outfeed table, cleanup, etc. I installed the Sawstop router table (SSRT) on the right end of my Sawstop PCS, 36”. I did not install it in any of the 3 suggested ways covered in the manual. The 3 ways listed in the manual are to the left of the blade, to the right of the blade with an optional 10” cast iron insert or with a shop made spacer insert like the laminate covered one shipped with the saw. I chose to instead mount it directly to the right extension wing with no insert. I did it because the SSRT is just long enough (16”) to still support the fence at its full 36” width, AND it lets me avoid the dust pipe that drops at that exact 36” width (see photo) for the big majority of the work I do with the router table. I’m going to give this a shot and if I don’t like it I’ll add the insert back in. I got my saw before Sawstop took on the router table line, so the rails were never intended to support them. Because of this, Sawstop offers new rails that are drilled and countersunk for the SSRT and notched for the miter slots in the SSRT. My rails don’t line up. In the photos you can see that I notched my rails for my old table and that’s what I plan to do for the new one. I don’t see the need to buy new rails, especially if I keep the setup as it is. The only disappointment I have is really with myself for not thinking to ensure the dust box was big enough for my router. I chose to keep using my 3 ¼ Hp Triton router. It has an integral lift micro adjustment and has been great. The router is way too big for the box. I can barely get my hands inside and have to pull it out to adjust it. That said, the dust box is well worth the money with the right router/lift mechanism. It has dual sized ports for the fence dust collection and from the box, adjustable draft vent and a magnetic door latch, as well as a split port for running the router power cable to the switch. Well thought out and well executed! Oh well, now I know what to ask for for Christmas! The SSRT fits standard router table inserts like the Kreg phenolic I’ve used for years. Summary I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this table to my best friend!
  25. 1 point
    I started this Morris Chair project about 3 weeks back. I wasn't really planning on doing a detailed journal, but I have been taking photos along the way and thought I would share them here. I am making this out of Sapele. When I first started thinking about this project 3 or 4 years back I was planning on doing it in Quarter Sawn White Oak but for some reason the lumber yards around here aren't carrying much 8/4 inventory. They are nice enough to offer to order what I need but this does give me an opportunity to select my pieces. I have done some other projects in Sapele and have really enjoyed it and I think this will end up looking good. Once I got the initial dimensions down I haven't used the guild plans much, I did how ever watch the videos a few times so I guess it all the same. I am going with a little more traditional thinking in what I do so I am not tapering the legs or doing the curved feature on the bottom side of ht topside rails or the top of the bottom rails and at this time I am planning of going with the straight side pieces for the back rest. This picture below was the inspiration for my design. I saw these in Crater Lake Lodge in Oregon a few years ago They have about 15 of these that were made in the early 1900's These first picture are after a lot of the basic stuff was done. The parts are littered with my chalk and blue tape notations. I used a veneer to cover the glue line on the legs it's just a fuzz of 1/16 inch thick. This picture was before anything was sanded. After this I took it apart and numbered things in inconspicuously located spots like inside the mortise and on the tenons. Then I worked on a detail for the bottom of the bottom rails, I kind of stole or borrowed this design from Mick's chair. I also did a cut out detail in some of the slats. At this point I sanded everything to 150, I will do 180 once I am done "banging" things up and before the glue up. Everything sanded and stacked on the cart. Before I started sanding the other things I got my first arm glued up and in the bending form. I was hoping to stay away from urea and formaldehyde in the glue I used for this so I was looking around at information on the internet, then while listening to one of Phillip Morley's podcast, he mentioned that he used Unibond One for veneer work and he was real happy with it and it doesn't contain anything that makes you worry. Well now I am telling you I am REAL happy with Unibond One. It did a great job, I had just a strong 1/16 worth of spring back and my glue lines are non existent, I am just real pleased with how they came out. I was prepared to do an edge veneer on the arms to hide glue lines if I had to but no need now. Close up of the arm sitting arch up on my saw table. Both arms all cleaned up and cut to size.
  26. 1 point
    I'm new to woodworking so naturally the first project I'm doing are picture frames. I would love to see some of your picture frames. Please post below. Thanks everyone. And yes absolutely critique me. Cant get better without help. Still working on them but would love some feedback.
  27. 1 point
    I like the idea of brushed, that way they are less of an eye grabber, and softer looking.
  28. 1 point
    I bet you finish them before I finish my kayak LOL
  29. 1 point
    How cheap is cheap? I don't think I've been able to find soft close for less than $15 per drawer. It doesn't really work to ask for walnut and expect to pay poplar prices. https://www.wwhardware.com/titus-soft-close-device-for-drawers The above link is to a soft close mechanism that you would pair with the regular garbage budget slides. (I'm bitter i have 5 failed drawers with those slides in my kitchen and i can't replace them because they are nailed in...) Otherwise these https://www.wwhardware.com/catalog/product/view/id/24268/s/blum-tandem-edge-series/category/850/ are $15 if you buy more than 8. (with the necesary clips) Another site with soft close under mount slides. https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/Undermount-Slides/?sort=price&sort_direction=0 The 12" slides are inexpensive, you could always put a larger drawer on a smaller slide? Not sure if that works with under mount i know it does for side mount. I honestly never use under mount, don't really get the hype.
  30. 1 point
    I used to buy King under mount soft close from HGH hardware. They were quite a bit cheaper than Blum. Had one customer that had repeat problems with them leaking oil and stopped closing soft after a couple years.
  31. 1 point
    I have the shinto and love it as well, but I want to see pics of your copters!
  32. 1 point
    Exactly I passed on Nordfab and spent the money on Festool ...no Bridge City but I did see some in person a couple years back and it is beautiful
  33. 1 point
    For the record, it's the Ys, Ts, and special fittings that are outrageously expensive. The straight runs of pipe aren't too bad.
  34. 1 point
    No one else comes to mind except maybe Chet and I think he is eons behind you and Richard? But us Millennials still have the utmost respect for you guys.
  35. 1 point
    Just by chance I did! He even threw in his new/old table saw with freight.
  36. 1 point
    Whoa! Nut’s defiantly got some competition here! Football or not. I’m with Chet on the repetitiveness.
  37. 1 point
    This is where I would fall by the wayside. I have a hard time with repetitive tasks. Over and over doesn't go over real well. My hat is off to those that can.
  38. 1 point
    I don't remember when we did this job, but I just downloaded some pictures these were taken with out of a Casio camera I found buried in the truck. This is a Bad Ass machine. The electro-magnetic base is Strong. The machine weighs about 85 pounds. First, we drilled some holes in a foot square 3/4" steel plate. Those holes were used to bolt the plate to the two out of three holes, on each side of the tractor, where the front end loader bolts to the engine block. Each side originally had two 5/8" threaded holes, and one 3/4" at the top of the row of three holes. The left side had the top, large hole severely screwed up, and one of the 5/8" holes. I was able to get the two 5/8" holes on the left side good enough to bolt the plate to it. On the right side, I was able to get some 7/8" threads in the top hole, and the bottom 5/8" hole rethreaded good enough to hold the plate. I had thought that we would need to rig up an engine lift to get the magnetic drill press in place, but it turned out not to be too bad for both of us to man handle it close enough, and then there is an adjustment that lets you slide around the drill press part, after the magnet is engaged. Pictures show it in place, on the left side, redrilling the top hole out to 7/8", so we could thread that one up to 1". second picture shows the 1" threaded hole, and yes, it was a bitch to cut, but more on that when we get back. More story to come, but we have to go.....later.
  39. 1 point
    I'm just looking at that Kumiko work and thinking, "man right there that's a week for me, each". You and Chestnut. Must be a Minnesota thing.
  40. 1 point
    I decided to hold off on creating a thread here until both videos were public just so the entire project is in one post.. First sponsored video! Thanks to Glacier Hardwoods! Joinery is mostly Domino but, there is a couple pocket screws as well. Poor planning on my part left me with a couple locations that I couldn't get the Domino into.
  41. 1 point
    Yes, Wegner has some great designs. This is my favourite. Sorry, no templates. I also deliberately did not post dimensions when I wrote up the build as it is still manufactured under license... but you can read the details of the build here (scan down the page): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/index.html Regards from Perth Derek
  42. 1 point
    I wouldn't say doing it wrong. I routinely forget to wax my hand planes and then when i remember i fly across the room because it cuts that much easier.
  43. 1 point
    Pins done. I’m liberally using chalk to remind me what goes where. I’m sure my second one will go smoother
  44. 1 point
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  45. 1 point
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual
  46. 1 point
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.
  47. 1 point
    And laid into a piece of oak scrap. Might make a good coaster Not ready for prime time but decent for a first attempt.
  48. 1 point
    Maybe I need to do that with my beer. Buy throwdown stuff that nobody likes and put that in the front and serve it to the neighbors when they come over empty handed.
  49. 1 point
    I once almost got tripped up by a farmer that stored diesel fuel in a red can because it's what he had on hand.... when i heckled him about it i believe the response was something "Well you appear to know the difference in smell so why does it matter?"
  50. 1 point
    When I make Parcheesi boards, I make eight at a time for economy of time, and it works well in the cost/price analysis. Since each board requires 16 pawns, turning 128 pawns with a shop made scraper takes time enough.