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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/02/10 in Posts

  1. 21 points
    I made a couple of jewelry boxes out of sepele for my daughters for Christmas. I haven't made any thing for them since they were kids here at home so I figured it was time. They are simple in design, neither one of our daughters is into fancy or real ornate stuff. I used Brusso stop hinges and they are finished with satin Arm-R-Seal. This is the first project using sepele and I really enjoyed working with it. I have another project after the first of the year and I now think I will be using sepele for that one also. The chatoyance is really something with sepele as you change the angle at which you view it from.
  2. 19 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  3. 18 points
    This was a fun build, and it really shows off Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple. I was inspired to do this piece after seeing some nice buffet designs and builds on this site. Why would a buffet design inspire this piece, well this piece will match my future buffet table/cabinet! I also plan to build a matching liquor cabinet to match this piece. That liquor cabinet is just getting started and if I can get my act together I wanted to post a journal with that. Now for those that have seen some of my work, you know I lean more toward a Maloof/sculptured design. I had to incorporate some flowing lines in this piece but it's a lot more traditional than Maloof stuff. I still find this look appealing. Spanky's curly ambrosia really looks great with the walnut, and my liquor cabinet will incorporate these two woods also. Fully stocked in this photo; Drawer dovetail were handcut and run on a center guide. Really like the way these woods work together; From the side view you can really appreciate the curves in this piece; Thanks for looking.
  4. 18 points
    This is the last post for me in this thread. The reason is that there is this one thing to add to it, to complete it. A few weeks ago, the funeral home called me and told me that the marker I ordered had come in. They wanted to know if they were going to drive the 50 miles to do the install. I told them no, and I'll be up in a few minutes to pick it up. It's been riding around in my car for 15 or 20 days, and today I took it to the grave of my wife. I waited til today for this reason. Today would be our 21st anniversary. And I wanted to share that date with the Lady I love. Ya see, my wife is buried next to her Father in a graveyard named after her Maiden name. The O'Dear Cemetery. Linda's Maiden name was Linda Kay O'Dear. I arrived there about 9:20 this morning and took a couple of general pics before I started prepping the ground for her Marker. It wasn't all that difficult, the ground was soft, since It doesn't seem to stop raining here this year. After a few shovels full, the ground was ready for the Marker. It's granite and 25" long by 14" tall, and about 6" thick. I can assure you that it wasn't light. It weighed a little over 110 pounds, but I got it out of the car and walked the 20 feet and put it in it's final place. I guess I should mention that I turned 76 today as well, and an old fart like me, shouldn't try picking up that much, much less walk it 20 feet, and gently lay it in place. But it was for my wife, and I'll do anything for her, even now. I filled in around it, and brought out a camp chair and I sat down to recover and to start a conversation with the love of my life. I sat there for close to 2 hours talking to her, all the while tears were pouring down my face. It's the very first conversation I've ever had with her where she didn't interrupt me. That to was unnerving. I don't know what the end result of today is going to be, some say closure, I say confusion. I've done all I can for her now, except try and live my life the way she would approve. And I'll give that a try. Thank every one of you who participated in this thread, every one of you have made this trial just a little easier. Here's the final pics of this final post. Again, I thank every one of you. ..............Rick She now rest's High on that Mountain.
  5. 17 points
    My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  6. 17 points
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  7. 17 points
    It has been one year to the day since I last was on this forum. I am sure there have been a lot of new members and things happen since then. I just thought I would put up a post to let everyone know where I've been and why I was absent for so long. Hopefully all the members I have known in the past are still here! One year ago today, I had an injury in the shop. I will spare you the details for now, but it ended up with me in the emergency room. I cut open my left thumb on the table saw, and required 12 stitches (6 inside and 6 outside). It scared the living hell out of me. The cut was in the pad of my left thumb, and did not severe any tendons, ligaments, or hit the bone. No surgery was required. I am a VERY safety conscious person, and doubly so in my shop. I have worked wood for 15 years without injury or incident, until this occurrence. It was, quite literally, 1 second of inattention and my thumb was cut open. I was out of the shop for 12 weeks as the thumb healed. My thumb has recovered, but I do have some nerve damage that affects the feeling along the scar line. The mental healing took much longer, and I feel now that I am ready to share my experience with you. After the incident, my wife was concerned about me and how this was affecting my outlook on my beloved craft. In the end, she bought me a Sawstop to help get me out of my funk and back to my passion. It's now in my shop, and I have been using it for 6 months. It's the 3 HP cabinet saw model, and its incredible. I'll post a review at a later date when I get back in the groove of posting again. In no way to I blame the table saw for my injury - it was 100% my own fault. Ironically, about 6 weeks after my injury I was contacted by a Woodworking magazine regarding a 2 page article I had written for them. I ended up getting my article published int the magazine (print), and have since written 4 more which will be published in 2019. The magazine is called "Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement". It was a very proud moment for me, but was a little tarnished by the injury I had suffered. Regardless, it is nice to be back in "full swing" again. I'll be back to regular posting now, so catch me up on what you fellas have been up to! -pug
  8. 16 points
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.
  9. 16 points
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  10. 16 points
    Done just in time for Christmas is this walnut and bubinga buffet. I used mostly hardwood for the project (walnut, bubinga, and maple for the drawers) as well as walnut plywood for the side and back panels. Joinery is primarily mortise and tenon, with some rabbet joints for the shelves, and a few pocket holes for the interior vertical panel (the pocket holes will be well hidden). For finish, I used a home-mixed shellac for interior components, and an oil based poly for the exterior. I normally try to avoid stain, but I did apply a mild stain on the walnut to match the chairs in the room. The legs have a pretty significant curve inward, and the lower rails on all sides include a craftsman-style curve. I borrowed these design elements from the dining table legs that I built last year (shown below). The top was made from three solid pieces of walnut, with knot holes included. I filled he knots with tinted epoxy, and sanded them smooth. Below you can see the curved stretcher on the table, which influenced the curves at the bottom of the buffet. I was not please with the plywood I used on this project. Even with only light 320 sanding, it showed witness marks from the glue used in the plywood. I tried sanding through the marks on a piece of scrap, but ended up burning through the veneer. If I were to do this scale of project again, I would either use shop made veneer, or I would buy thick veneer to use. The bubinga panels are continuous from right to left, and ar bookmatched from a single board. As with the drawers, I chose the darker material for the center of the case, with lighter material above and below that. The doors are simple frame and panel doors assembled using mortise and tenon joints and a groove for the panels. I was very please (and a little surprised) by the consistency of the gaps between these drawers. I used playing cards to get the spacing right, and attached them with screws to the drawer boxes. I chose a step-down aproach for the piece. The front of the top, legs, frmae and drawers are all inset from one another. This was to give thepiece some visual interest, but was borne from a mostly practical concern. I was worried about my ability to make my drawers perfectly square and coplaner to the front of the piece by insetting them 1/4" from the frame, i was able to hid very minor imperfections in thedrawers. This will mean that there is some exposed walnut that the rails will ride against when opening the drawers, but only time will tell how much wear damage this will do to the finish. I used Brusso hinges for the doors, and champagne-colored hardware for all of the pulls. I experimented with my version of "speed dovetailing", which means spending about 1 to 1.5 hours per drawer. That left some gaps, but I was overall pleased with my pace and the results. I elected to leave any gaps that remained. I cut all dovetails by hand, but used the Katz Moses jig for them all. I gang cut the tails. I then clamped the heck out of them to try to force them into square (they ended up being very close). This was my first time rubbing out shellac with steel wool and wax, and I was amazed at how smooth everything ended up. Here's the webframe construction I used. I mortised the hinges into the front of the case, and rested them on cleats glued to the back of the case. After building drawer boxes, I then installed the right-hand drawer guides, using playing carts to shim them out to ensure the drawer fronts were flush with the front of the case. Once they were dried, I put the boxes into the opening, and installed the left-and drawer guides. This helped to take the boxes (which weren't perfectly square), and still make them run well. I mirrored my liquor cabinet (below) with a 3" bevel on the underside of the top. This ties the two pieces together really well. I "cut" the bevel away with a #4 plane. I included an adjustable shelf to increase storage flexibility. It was made from 1/2" walnut plywood with a 3/4" solid wood front edge. I found that it sagged too much, so I then glued a 3/4" x 2" strip under the shelf for its entire length. This helped out quite a bit. One of my favorite features is the integrated wine shelf, which can hold 21 bottles. I started with a sheet of plywood for the shelf, which I ran across the saw to create a series of parallel grooves. I then milled and cut small ribs to for the grooves. I tapered each rib, rounded it over, and sanded until they were pillowed. I then rabbeted the solid wood on the front to accept the plywood panel, and assembled. Here's the case early in the construction process. You can see theuse of pocket holes on the vertical divider here. Some of the raw material. Here she is in her final home in the corner of the dining room. Dining room is complete. I made the buffet, table, and liquor cabinet. I outsourced the chairs, but you never know; I may tackle those myself at some point in the future.
  11. 16 points
    The immediate challenge is to create the curved ends. The plan is to make dovetailed corners, round them on the outside and add a filler/filet to the inside corner, which will be hollowed to compliment the outer radius. Complicating this is the need to mitre the insides of the dovetailed ends, since this will permit the shape to flow better than butt ends. Interesting ... as I have never made mitred dovetails to date. This is going to be a steep but quick learning curve! I spent some time researching mitred dovetails. There is not much around. The only book I could find with directions was Ian Kirby's "The Complete Dovetail". I like Ian's work, but the writing here were not his best. There is a short video by Chris Schwarz (Google for it), which was helpful. There was also an article on the UKWorkshop forum (by Custard), which is a Pins-first method (I tend to saw Tails-first). There were one or two other articles to be found, of less assistance to someone like yours truly, who becomes easily spatially challenged. In the end I worked it out but, reflecting on the method that evolved, it does not look like those who came before. Perhaps it is a different way of doing it? I really do not know. Let me have your thoughts here. Anyway, I plan to show it for the education of those who want to learn a method. Beginning with a tail board that has been marked and sawn (to speed up the description). Note that there is no shoulder here (which is common on butt ended dovetails). The wood is Merbau, which is hard, hard, hard. 20mm thick, as per the panels on the table ... The aim is to saw all the tails. Forget about the mitre for now (... this is a departure from the methods I observed). To make the removal of waste easiest, undercut the baselines (shallow cuts to avoid losing vertical) ... Now fretsaw away the waste. Get as close to the baseline as you dare! My cuts are about 1mm ... This enables the minimum of waste removal. You can place the chisel immediately against the chisel wall and pare/chop down halfway ... With the waste removed, mark the mitre cuts at the sides - but do not cut them yet (this is another departure) ... Time now to transfer the marks to the pin board. First, here is an alternative to the "#140 trick" (the #140 trick involves creating a shallow rebate to securely connect the tail board to the pin board when transferring marks. This was popularised by Rob Cosman and Chris Schwarz, amongst others). My alternative is three layers of blue tape, which is peeled away afterwards. Lay three layers of blue tape over the baseline. No need to be careful ... Now use the cutting gauge (which marked the tails) to slice away the tape, leaving an edge butting against the baseline ... This is the fence. Here it is seen with the pin board, which has a layer of blue tape on the end ... The "fence" makes it easy to align the boards, while the blue tape on the pin board also acts as a non-slip .. When you trace the sockets (with a knife), the outlines look like this (great for old eyes!) ... Drop all the vertical lines, with the exception of the line on the outside at each side ... Remove the waste in the same way as done on the tail board (undercut the baseline, fretsaw and chisel) ... Mark out the mitre lines ... ... and drop the verticals on the reverse side... Now saw the mitre cuts and remove the waste ... Do this on the tail board as well - the reason it was left until now was that it would be difficult to transfer the outside tail if the mitre was sawn. Stay about 1mm from the mitre line. Do not saw to the line. This will be more accurately shaped with a chisel. For chiseling, use a mitre guide. This is just a 45 degree saw cut. I made a double-ended guide - to use on opposing sides .. Take it slowly, a smidgeon at a time. Finally ... the moment of truth arrives ... will she .. won't she ?? Looking promising as the top is pressed together with finger pressure. Then I wack it - the wood is uncompromising. The clamp is to prevent any cracking in such circumstances. Not too shabby. Mitres are tight ... Now about the rounded edge ... here is the secret weapon: After marking out, the waste is removed with a block plane, and then sanded smooth. Just lacking the inner filet ... Enough practice. Now for the real thing. A bit more of a challenge as the panels are 500mm wide. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. 15 points
    This is a bowl that my wife, Marcia, made. It's made form two pieces of Khaya (African mahogany) sandwiching a thin piece of zebra wood. The rim and stem are accented with Inca Gold Gilder's Paste. The design and work are her own. I consulted on the project, but surprisingly little. Don't know about you all, but I was impressed.
  13. 15 points
    Nothing you write home about here, but if you make something and dont post pictures, did it really happen? The American flag was for my father, who is a Vietnam veteran. I bought the union, I wanted the perfection of the CNC. I was going to do the typical burned/stained home center pine, but realized I have piles of cherry and curly maple that bumped it up a notch. I didn't use my best maple, but there's still some curl in there. A very quick, easy project. The Ulu knife sets go to my in-laws. Nothing extraordinary here either, except since I have no lathe, I cut the bowls with a router in a jig. Messy, but it went pretty well. I'll attach photos of the jig when I switch to a computer.
  14. 14 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 14 points
    Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL
  16. 14 points
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.
  17. 14 points
    Teaching the next generation of woodworkers to source materials, use tools and make useful things. I had some wasted space between two garage doors. We made a small shelf unit to fit between the doors. We were able to place all of my garage products on this shelf in an organized manner. She became familiar with project layout, woodworking concepts and the use of tools. No longer scarred of using machinery. So much for my "toxic masculinity".
  18. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  19. 14 points
    Megan has been requesting fresh herbs in the kitchen for a while. So i decided to make a rack that hangs by the window in our kitchen to put some potted herbs on. Light is important so i researched grow lights and found all the stoner options on pretty much every site out there. Those are a no go, A. I'm not a stoner and the lights don't look cool, B. I'd like something that blends in. So i researched what light plants need and remembered all those you tubers that got lights from American green light. What the heck I'll give them a shot. The joinery was screws that were plugged. I made treys to hold the pots that had some empty space underneath to hid the lights so when you look at it the light just seems to appear. To run the wires i kerfed the back of the vertical supports and hot glued the wires in. The key was to be flexible in case the idea didn't hit the mark. The whole thing was made from cherry because i have scraps that need to get used. The bottom trey is taller to hide the LED ballast. Here you can see the ballast and the lights. These things are BRIGHT!!!!! and awesome. They are perfectly color balanced so my camera picks up color like i'm under sunlight. I got the 4000k versions of the LEDs because the 5000K ones irritate my eyes and 3000K look yellow. I ran some super overkill cord. The power cord is 16 ga SOOW to run a 24 watt led ballast..... I didn't have any lamp cord and this is what i had around. Did half laps for the first time to make mounting brackets to attach the rack to the wall. On the brackets i fastened figure 8s and used screws and anchors to hold it up there. In the picture above on the left side there is a little leg that braces against the window frame. This makes it so the screws only need to hold sheer forces. Did a test run before i warpped it up to make sure that everything was going to work out ok. Lights were nice, they didn't overly illuminate the kitchen when it's dark but they put a LOT of lights on the plants. Turned out Megan loves it. I wrapped the pots and seeds for herbs separate and had her open the pots first and the seeds 2nd. She was so confused until she read the seed packets. After i got it hung she ended up having a great idea to get chalkboard stickers and write the plants names under their position. She was worried that i wouldn't go for it. I thought it was a great idea and told her it was her rack and gift so she could do with it as she pleased. I ended up buying some already growing herbs and we have started trying to germinate seeds for the rest of the types that we don't use as often. Here is a picture of it today. We have some germinated seeds we need to get into starter pots for a couple weeks and it should be full of mature herb plants by March. I'm so impressed by the American Green Light lights that i'm going to work to convert my shop lights over to their system. They match sunlight so well and the color balance is more relaxing to the eye. they are also very low profile so i should be able to mount them places that regular fixtures just won't work. There is no reason that light fixtures need to be big any more. The whole project took me 3 hours or something. Finish is just shellac. I figured the finish is going to get abused by water so why not go with something somewhat durable but easy to repair.
  20. 14 points
    Bowl #17. I have titled it Half Moon. I finished this just before Christmas, but I didn't get around to setting up the photo booth for some pictures until this weekend. My lovely wife complimented it many times while I was making it, so when these had exceeded spousal duty I decided I'd better make it a gift to her for Christmas. I think it came off rather well, too. Similar process to those I've done before, but variation on the shape, it has a lot of intriguing perspectives when I started photographing it. Hard maple with Bartley Gel Varnish. Bowl #18 is on the lathe and I hope to have that done in the next week or two.
  21. 13 points
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  22. 13 points
    One of the projects to do after the dresser was a closet remodel. Some how i came up with the bright idea to make a unit that had 8 drawers in it with closet rod above and below.... I HATE making drawers. Before. Just had a single rod that was about 6' up with a shelf on top. The shelf was wasted space it just catches junk and wasn't very useful. The shelf and rod were removed but this illustrates it well enough. I scored some cherry MDF a while ago for $25 a sheet. Decided to use some of that to make this. I used birch ply for the rest to keep weight down and offer a bit more strength than MDF. I started by edge banding everything with thin strips of cherry. I clamped it on with green tape and was able to get 4 8 foot sections done in short order. I flush trimmed the banding with my router. This method works really well and quite quick. It's easy to adjust the banding if it's not strait, which mine wasn't even close to being strait. After i had everthing edged i joined the top and back together with a single domino to keep them in line. This way i could clamp a guide on both the top and the back and cut mortises for loose tenons at the same time. While i was working the domino would hold things in place so i wouldn't have to worry about bumping the piece and causing a misalignment. Vertical dividers got a dado for the middle shelf. The bottom shelves were attached with dominoes in to the sides of each vertical divider. I didn't want to just glue the bottom on to the dividers because the bottom would hold the weight of the clothing hanging and the weight of what ever is inside the bottom drawers. I figured having just the glue contention wasn't as strong as having to sheer a domino off and break the glue connection. This might be more visible in follow pictures. Case was glued up with epoxy, even with 45 min of time i was running on the ragged edge. I ran out of epoxy and had to use yellow glue for the back. In hindsight I'm glad i ran out because I'd not have had near enough and i'd have probably just tried to go thin with the epoxy and strength would have suffered. I used a couple clamps and probably should have used a couple more. I wanted to hang the closet rod from under the drawer unit but in a way where the hangers would slide with out interference from one end to another. So i devised a hook that would support the closet rod with out interference to the hangers. I made them from scrap so they don't really match but you don't see them ever. I did some strength tests on them to see if the grain direction would be problematic. I almost had to put my entire weight on 1 bracket to break it. So i figured 7 brackets should be strong enough. Drawers are all birch ply. I did cherry veneer for the faces just like for the walnut dresser i just completed. I had a 4' board so the outside 2 drawers are continuous grain that book match over the center. I then book matched the top to the bottom so it's a 4 way match. It looks real good but the closet isn't big enough to see the detail so forever only i will ever know what it looks like..... Oh yeah i used some curly cherry as well. It was one of my not so curly pieces the pictures make it look better than it really is. Mostly finished and loaded up. Some how i hit the drawer depth perfectly. I didn't need to put stops at the back. This never happens and if anything i call it a mistake because i usually try and make them a bit short so i have to install stops. The only other issue is because each drawer is in it's own tight box there is a heavy piston action. Pushing the drawers in and out is difficult on a few of them so I'll have to find a fix for that.
  23. 13 points
    Not really fine woodworking but I needed to kick out five shop made gifts and with limited time I decided to make this cheese and cracker tray out of Woodsmith. First up was to breakdown some cherry boards. My chop saw is in the basement for that project so I used my plunge saw to do the work. Next up a quick jig to set up the TS to cut the coves for the tray handles I needed a 2" wide cove so I set the jig to 2" and then used blue tape to mark the front and the back of the blade where it enters/exist the cut Once I had that done I could set up the fences for both sides of the piece. I was having trouble figuring out how to get a clamp on the far end when I remembered Chestnut's tip from a few days ago handscrews worked great, thanks Drew!! Then set the blade to take about an 1/8" for the first few cuts and further on 1/6" as the cut gets wider Then its just push through flip push through rinse and repeat...forget about dust collection this makes a really big mess! ...but does a nice job fairly quickly, 5 sets Next I marked off for the 1/4" dowels that will pin the handles to the tray sides Then I drilled 1/4" holes through all the sides for all the trays. Once that was done they were ready to glue up Warning the glue up kinda sucks...made a mess of the first one getting glue in the cracker tray but after that I came up with a process that worked much better. I would dry fit one end then glue the other end and finally go back and glue the first. The tray sides and handles are cut at a 30 degree angle so you have to clamp from top to bottom to keep them aligned Next up I needed to make a bunch of 1/4" cherry dowel stock so after cutting some 3/8" square stock I got out my Elkhead tools TS dowel jig and set it up. Then I hand fed each piece in to make a small dowel I can chuck in a cordless drill Then I ran one through and gave it a test fit Once I had the fit I ran the rest through Next up was to drill the handles. I used the holes drilled in the sides for a guide and then made a wood depth stop Cut the dowels to length Glued them in I cleaned up the over hang with a sharp flush saw, so sharp I cut myself Then I cut the waste away at the TS to reveal the handle Once that was done I cleaned up the coves first at the TS then with sand paper on a 2" piece of conduit, cut a curve on the handle ends, and made some small cutting boards for the centers. After some edge finishing and final sanding they will be ready for finish and bows with two days to spare I also knocked out another lamp like the ones I did last year I'll post up some final shots after the finish is applied.
  24. 12 points
    This request from Megan has been on the table a long time. The only reason that it has been put off as long as it has is because other furniture was determined to be more important. Now that all the more important functional furniture is completed I'm getting started on this project. I plan to add quite a few new firsts to my arsenal. Notably is going to be hand cut dovetails, second is home swan veneer and applying said veneer. The final sort of fist is going to be a very complicated final case glue up. The design will have 2 sides a center divider and 6 or 8 horizontal dividers depending on how you look at it. So yeah this one is going to be fun. I did some other sketches to arrive at my plans but they have changed to make the dresser taller as requested and to add some some additional space. Below are my shop plans they are very sophisticated. My cultist is probably more detailed but i only use that to buy lumber and those dimensions usually change once i get to cutting. It always seems blasphemous to cut the edges off slabs but i'm not a slab fan and this walnut was chainsaw milled and air dried so it has all the awesome colors. This is one place i think commercial walnut has it wrong. The steaming gets them more yield but it ruins the color. I'd pay more for unsteamed walnut. Instead i paid less and got it from Cremona in slab form. I always save the shims from cutting tapes on legs and such they always seem to find a use. All of the doors i install are shimmed with cherry or walnut. I also use them to stabilize wood so that cuts don't get scary. Got those ugly bark edges cut off. Sawed 5 panels accidentally. I meant to get 4 but i guess i minimized losses and got 5 1/4" panels out of a 1.75" thick board. Pre finished the panels so they are ready for the side assembly glue up. The color and depth the air dried walnut has doesn't quite come through in the picture. I also am going to do a slip match instead of book match. Why, because there were a couple gouges and defects i could hide this way and I liked it. Milled the leg and frame material the usual ways. Cut to length and laid out joinery for the domino. Sides as you can see will be frame and panel construction. This is the same or similar style to other furniture in the bedroom. I used the router table to route the groove in the pieces. This all takes a lot of organization. I Made sure that i only used white pencil on the show face and used regular pencil on the back side. This helped me avoid mistakes beings that the whole assembly isn't centered anywhere. I have the panels inset futher back than center to add some depth and the back side of the side needs to be flush for the drawers. After all the joinery was cut it is time to do the pre-finishing. I went through all the grits of my #4. Finish prep took no time at all, best of all there was no dust everything is perfectly flat and I didn't need hearing protection. The other side benefit is the amount of money saved on not having to buy sand paper other than 180 grit has paid for this guy and then some. Edges were softened with a slight chamfer using a block plane. I use the bench and try and cut on the same spot of the iron to make sure that all the angles are similar. They don't need to be close as none of them are going to meet at a corner. I used this to add a slight detail as well to the vertical divider that might be more visible in later pictures. Keeping everything organized is key the white part descriptions were transferred from the front to the back before finish prep. This records the part which side its for and it's orientation as well as center marks. Because this is all on the inside i will leave it for someone to find years down the road. Any time i can leave my notes on hidden surfaces i do. On pieces that i do as gifts i generally hide my plan sheets somewhere inside as well to be found later.
  25. 12 points
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  26. 12 points
    Some final photos of the Thing: The doors don't close firmly because of the SOSS hinges (I don't recommend them) so I will probably add some magnets, but that shouldn't change the appearance much.
  27. 12 points
    This is a fun little table to make, and really pretty straight forward. Made this to go with a future walnut Maloof Rocker, on the list for later this year. Got these plans from Scott Morrison, I've about tapped him out for plans now. The technique to make the legs is simple and versatile. I could see me using this in future designs, whether you do 2 feet or 4 feet (like this project). Here's the desired outcome; Stock selection, I love pulling out a pile of Walnut, all milled by trees I harvested, and starting to make something; Pieces selected for the top, small dominos for board alignment; Circle cut freehand on the bandsaw then used rasp to finish to my line and round over the edges; Moving to the stand, starts with a center post 2.5" X 2.5", dados hold the piece together; Now that the base fits, time to move to the legs. The vertical pieces that have the tenons are cut at 45 degrees and glued to 2 other pieces. Domino (8mm) used to reinforce the joint, and needed some help with the glue up; Here are the legs all glued up and the final pattern drawn over them; After bandsawing, all pieces now ready for shaping and assembly. Router used to start shaping the edges of the legs, then final shape achieved with the rasps; Glue up of base is a little tricky; Underside of the base needs a little shaping; Top is screwed on; After 3 coats of oil/poly and 3 coats of oil/wax; This is a great project for someone that wants to get into sculptured furniture. Not a lot of shaping and a pleasing result. Now you'll notice in this pic that the end table is next to a rocker that is cherry. After this winter this rocker is going to my in-law's beach house and I'll be making a walnut rocker to match this table. Thanks for looking.
  28. 12 points
    This was the model for the coffee table my nephew chose when I offered to build them a wedding present ... Let's see how we did .... Before the coffee table was assembled from the parts, I was mindful that it would be shipped from Perth to Sydney (which is the further than New York to LA). The main concern was that the container might bounce (be dropped or be handled roughly), and the weight of the heavy Jarrah top coming down on the splayed legs might cause them severe damage. (I am not concerned about the strength of the legs for normal home use - the construction is strong. More shortly). So, I build a table out of MDF that could be placed under the coffee table, and would take all the weight ... The top and base were connected with steel angle brackets ... Part of the strength in the splayed legs comes from the corner brackets, which act to lock in the mortice-and-tenon joint by preventing movement. These steel angle brackets further lock in the base from any possible twisting. The brackets are angled to 10 degrees to match the inside of the rails ... Incidentally, the best, and cheapest, anvil is this section of steel angle, the insides of which are lines with Hard Maple scrap, and then clamped in the leg vise over a leg .... The finish for the wood - Fiddleback Jarrah for the top of the carcase and the drawer fronts, and Jarrah for the base of the carcase and base/legs - was chosen for durability. It needs to be capable of resisting water marks and heat, and still have a natural appearance - not a sit-on-top finish, such as a poly or varnish. Most oil finishes are not durable enough. What I went with in the end was Evolution (satin), a hard wax oil by Whittle. This is a floor finish, and in the examples I saw it looked more like a waxed oil finish. The reports and reviews were highly favourable. I must say, after using it, I was completely sold. It is fantastic! The surfaces were sanded to 400 grit (Abranet), and then two coats were rubbed on with a micromesh cloth, 8 hours apart. Any residue was removed immediately. There was no grain raising that I could detect, however I did rub down the first coats with 400 grit grey mesh. The drawer case was waxed (only) with Lincoln Furniture Wax. This is a shellac-based wax. The inside of the drawer was finished with Ubeaut Hard Shellac diluted 50% with methylated spirits (alcohol). All of the above are Australian products. The interior of the drawer was lined in leather, which was waxed with Renaissance Wax. This is a close up of the Evolution. It is so much nicer in the flesh. Silky ... OK, to the coffee table ... The front, with the drawer (and the agonised-over-drawer-handle-pull-whatever) .. The colour, figure, and those rounded dovetails look fantastic ... Other end ... The rear has a closed panel. At the start of the project I had planned to make the drawer run all the way through, and open from each side. On reflection, this created more problems than it was worth, and so the one side was closed in with the same panel used as a drawer front ... The Jarrah base and splayed, tapered legs ... Finally the drawer ... The drawer stop used was the same design as used in the Apothecary Chest. This is adjustable, which enable the position of the drawer front to be fine tuned ... The 10mm drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I find great for this purpose as it all comes quarter sawn. It is a moderately hard wood (by Oz standards). Plywood was used for the drawer bottom, as it was inset in grooves and covered in leather. Jarrah cove moulding was made to finish. Inside there is an inscribed brass plate for remembrance ... Thanks for all the contributions and discussion along the way. Regards from Perth Derek
  29. 12 points
    Tis the season for me to start cutting wood, both for the woodstove (next year's stash) and for my woodworking habit. I am very fortunate to have access to some very nice trees. This black walnut was on my property, it's the tree in the center of the photo with a nice branchless trunk. This should give me some primo logs. I saw it the first time I looked at the property in 1998 with a realtor. I harvested one very similar to this 2 years ago and it's time to for this one to be repurposed; Dropped it with no problem, as this is always something that you do with the upmost care. Spanky, take note that I dropped it just right so i didn't break the wood at the crotch; And here is the money shot, gorgeous color, a centered pith, no terrible cracking. The sapwood is a little thicker than I was hoping but I'll still take it; Width is about 26" wide, plenty big for my purposes; I applied anchorseal, 2 coats, left the rest of the tree whole for now. Did clean up the small branches. I should be able to get three 8' logs below the crotch, I'll then salvage/mill a few peckerpoles and the crotch piece. This log is too nice, I think I will hire an onsite bandsaw mill to do this as my chainsaw mill's kerf will eat up too much of this primo wood. I'll update this thread as I move forward with the harvesting of this nice tree. Thanks for looking
  30. 12 points
    Not much in the way of individual gifts but, the wife and I treated ourselves to this this year.
  31. 12 points
  32. 11 points
    I've posted previously that we were very fortunate to host Darrell Peart for a weekend workshop a couple of weeks back. The seminar was great. I know everyone left with a better understanding and appreciation for what all goes into a Greene and Greene style piece. I had been planning on making a side table for the Morris chair I finished last year and thought the Fremont night stand would be a great piece to go with it. Unfortunately the space isn't wide enough to fit it in, so I'm thinking maybe Darrell's Tercet table might work better. In the meantime, we have a file cabinet that doesn't go with anything else in the room. I've modified the Guild's Fremont night stand plans to use as a file cabinet replacement as my next project. Line drawing elevations: I'm going back and forth on deciding whether to have the doors swing open or be attached to the file drawers behind them. I have a space limitation on the left door swing, so I may attach them. Back view Side view CNC router cut templates. Starting the rough milling process. The thicker stock is 9/4 so I'll resaw it down to yield the 6/4 final thickness for the legs and use the thinner cutoff for the drawers. The wider 4/4 boards will get resawed for veneering the panels. My plan is to use traditional wooden runners for the upper drawers and Blum undermount Blumotion slides for the file drawers. Should be a fun project for me!
  33. 11 points
    Progress! I've applied finish (ARS) and mounted the doors. The doors aren't perfect by any means. I screwed up when gluing up the outer doors. I didn't follow Matt's advice to use the main cabinet as a template for gluing the doors to ensure consistent geometry. I simply forgot to do it in my rush to get them glued up. The end result is that outer doors are slightly out of square relative to the inner doors and main cabinet. Having said that, they hang and swing nicely, so overall I'm happy. As well my drawers are recycled from a previous project, so they don't fit exactly, but are fully functional. I still have to make all the tool holders, but at least it's on the wall now...
  34. 11 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  35. 11 points
    Well @Spanky here it is at long last, something from that piece of box elder you gave me. When I got the protective paint off the original piece of wood there were some natural cracks and bark inclusions that dictated cutting out a smaller piece of wood to turn. Ultimately "A Different Angle" was made from the "filet" of the board, but as I was trying out ideas and cutting the board down I decided that I really liked the wedge shape of the blank and would try to incorporate that. There are a couple of small irregularly shaped fragments left over that might still become something in my shop or I may give some to a member of my club who puts together fragments of wood for his blanks. Once I had the fillet, I turned it round and then knowing what I would be working with I did some sketches. These were mostly Ogee forms. I showed these to Marcia who looked at them for a moment and then said "Why don't you do a diamond". To which I spluttered " That's a terrible idea" and, after blathering a bit more, "I'll sketch it and show you". Then after eating my hat, I went to the workshop and turned it. Here's some other views: It's definitely a different shape, but I like it.
  36. 11 points
    Hey everyone! I know I don't post too often, but I figured I'm about halfway through this build and I wanted to share progress and maybe keep myself accountable to finish the darn thing. So a few years ago, when my son was first born, I made a midcentury modern side table. It's shown here: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. I am proud of that piece. It was the first time I ever tried to do nothing but best practices in my woodwork. Lots of hand-tooling, lots of hidden and half-blind dovetails, lots of creative crazy joinery. It's holding up quite well, too, and I liked it so much that I decided it needed a friend. Two projects ago, a client wanted a cherry TV stand, so I over-ordered cherry and kept enough back to make myself something. For my next few projects, I want to keep building in this style and filling out my living room. My goal is this: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. The TV stand, bookshelf, and coffee table are all new, while the other stuff is existing. I know a mission-style white oak Morris chair doesn't exactly go with a bunch of cherry midmod stuff, but I'm keeping it for sentimental reasons. Here's the TV stand that's in progress: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 31.6%. Click to view full size. On the original side table, I was trying best practices with no regard to how long it took, and that tiny table took about two months as a result. It turned out GREAT, but that's a long time, and I've got commissions to build after this. Gotta make money somehow. So the way I'm looking at this project is that I'm trying to see how quickly and efficiently I can make a piece that I'm proud of without sacrificing too much quality. The project is an exercise in "compromising without compromising," so to speak.Compromises:1. No buying new material. So far so good on this one, I had just the right amount in the shop for the case, doors, and drawer fronts. I did have to use sapwood-heavy boards on the interior, but nobody will ever see that in daily use. I also had to use a board that had a half-inch bug hole through it. It's also on the inside - it'll be the surface that the top drawer rides on top of. I filled the bug damage with epoxy, and nobody will ever be the wiser. Everything on the outside is looking good. I did have to do a few panels with three boards when two wider ones would have been preferable, but I'm working with limited stock here, and I'm keeping it pretty symmetrical, so it's not a major loss. One compromise that I'm somewhat okay with is that the back panel is actually ¼" cherry-veneered MDF panel.2. No overly complicated joinery. On the original side table, the miter joints featured blind mitered dovetails. Those took FOR. EVER. And they look great and were a dream to glue up, because everything came together perfectly, but I'm not sure how much of a payoff there will really be. For this one, I just cut the miters on the table saw with a sled and used biscuits for alignment. On the original, the vertical components were held in place by sliding dovetails in the top and bottom of the case. In the TV stand, they are just held in by a simple tenon in a groove. Simplified joinery, but not to the point it will be weaker.3. Fastening hardware is okay. I'm attaching the base to the top with screws up through the base into the bottom of the cabinet. On the side table I did a crazy sliding dovetail thing - a very cool magic trick for woodworkers to ooh and ahh over, but it actually doesn't really help the piece in use, and it took forever. Screws where they will work better faster and never be seen? I'm in.Non-Compromises:1. The joinery will still be solid. It'll hold up to everyday use. And it will look good doing it.2. The wood will still be as-well-selected as possible in spite of trying to avoid buying new material for this project. It's all pretty decent cherry aside from the defects deep inside the case, which will be invisible during ordinary use.3. The hardware is going to be niiiiice. I bought the stainless steel knife hinges from Lee Valley and installed them in the case prior to glue-up. I just ordered ball catches from Brusso (via Amazon) and will use those to lock the doors shut. I've already got my handle hardware - it's as close as I could find to the hardware from the original side table, and I think it'll look great.So here's my progress so far: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. The legs and stretchers went together without a hitch. Simple enough, just vertically-oriented sliding dovetails into the tops of the legs. This is the fourth or fifth time I've used this technique for attaching legs, and it's become one of my favorite techniques. It's just so solid. This photo was prior to final glue-up, but it looks essentially identical right now. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. Testing the miters with the biscuits. It went pretty well for the most part. There was a little trouble during the glue-up, but that may be a different post. Definitely easier overall than the blind mitered dovetails, but the glue-up sucked a lot more, haha. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. And here's the case put together! This was another pre-glue photo, so what you can't see here (and I'll have to get a picture of later) is the slight bevel on the outer edges of the case. Here's a close-up of it in my sketch up model:That little bit of detailing is really making this piece feel pretty great.So yeah, that's about where it's at at the moment. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. (pre-glue, those gaps are all gone now)So, here's where I'm at from here. I've got the door panels glued up and I've got the drawer-fronts selected and rough-cut to size. I am going to take a walk in the danger zone and make my doors be solid wood panels. I figure that the worst that could happen is they get stuck, and I have to trim them - or they warp into potato chips and I have to scrap them and make new doors. Honestly, that wouldn't be so bad. I mean, I'm a woodworker. I've never done solid-wood doors, and this cherry seems quite stable, so I'm giving it a go. I think it'll look good with the modern style. For the interior of the drawers, I'm waffling back and fort between ash and maple - mostly because I have a bit of ash on hand already, but I'm not sure if it will be enough to make what I need, so it may just come down to whether I have enough ash on hand. If I don't, I'll probably buy maple just because it would look better with the cherry.More updates will follow.Keep getting splinters, fellow termites.
  37. 11 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  38. 11 points
  39. 11 points
    I've been a lurker here for years reading posts and soaking up knowledge, but I rarely post. I recently took on a project that I felt was well above my skill level, and I learned a lot form it. This post is meant primarily to encourage those who feel they don't have the "right tools" or the skills to go ahead and give it a shot anyway. You'll surprise yourself with what you can do. A bit about me, I am by no means a pro. During college I worked as a framer for about 6 months before my fear of heights got the better of me. I then got a job via classified ad (that'll date me) for a finish carpenter. When I called the number on the ad, the guy asked me only a few questions; 1.) Do you own reliable transportation? 2.) Do you own the following tools: table saw, compound mitre saw, jig saw, router, palm sander, air compressor, nail guns...the list goes on and on. 3.) Can you start tomorrow? I did own a vehicle (that couldn't fit all the tools needed) , I could start the next day, but I didn't own any tools other than framing hand tools (but I said I had them). I went out that night and convinced my young bride that dropping a load of money on these tools for the job was a good idea. So I did. I showed up the next day with a car load of new tools (not the nicest) I'd never used and proceeded to get an education. I had no idea what I was doing, but I made some money and loved the job. I did finish work for about 3 years to put me through school, and that is the extent of my woodworking experience. Fastforward 11 years since I left woodworking to park my butt in the cockpit of a jet for a living, and my wife called upon me to jump into the way-back machine, dust off my tools and build her a new kitchen. I foolishly said okay. This project included gutting our existing kitchen, removing walls and ceiling, rewiring and new pluming, so It was more than just a new cabinet build. Apologies for the mess in the foreground/background. I have kids...and they are messy. Kitchen before: Kitchen after: Loos smaller than before, but the wall to the left includes the pantry with didn't exist before. All in all we gained a lot more usable cabinet space than we previously had. The peninsula with the oven (far left of kitchen) used to have a floor to ceiling wall behind it that blocked the dinning room (where my ladder is sitting), so we lost the upper cabinets there. We doubled the width of the island and added storage on the back and also added 3 feet to the length. Various Details - Vent Hood Back of Island Pantry wall with faux beams Dovetail maple drawers Anyway, that's the gist of it. If I can do it, anyone can. So go ahead and jump in and start something. Reading blogs and watching videos online is great and motivating, but nothing beats making sawdust (and mistakes) in the shop. I may post construction pictures and techniques if there is interest. This was a fun and occasionally frustrating project that took about 6 months from beginning of demolition to finished product.
  40. 11 points
    I hate to pick the best of the gifts from family and friends but this was special to me. Hand made by my son in my shop with me assisting, not knowing what it would be. I sold my company 3 years ago and the new owner changed the name slightly. My son somehow obtained a photo of the original sign that was on the building for years and recreated it in a smaller size. As I am still working there, it will share a space on my office wall. When I do decide to retire, it will become a permanent fixture in my shop. Handmade gifts are always cool.
  41. 11 points
    I just wanted to wish you all Merry Christmas ! And thank you all for the helpful information that you all shared.Throughout this past year And Have a Happy And Healthy New Year
  42. 11 points
    This project is for my daughter. It will live in a small octagonal alcove in her new house. Table is 30" tall and26" in "diameter". First the base. I, unfortunatley, did not take progress pics of the base. These pics are after 2 costs of ARS. Center post is 8 sided with a full length shallow dado on 4 sides and the legs on the other 4 sides. Legs and top supports are attached to post with stopped sliding dovetails. Dovetails were done on the router. Duting practice cuts I learned that there is precious little difference between too tigh and too loose. These dovetail slide in by hand with a little effort and then a couple ot gentle taps to seat them at the end of the dovetail. No glue. The curved legs were cut from an mdf pattern using bandsaw and then pattern bit on the router. Each leg has a grain reversal so I cut them long to start with to avoid chip out when cutting the dados in the curved legs with dado bit on the router. Then cut the round ends. The top is veneerd MDF with a walnut frame (with ebony stripe). Show side veneer is brazilian rosewood. Back side is red birch. I started with a 22 pack of the Brazilian Rosewood. Spent much time with mirrors trying to decide what part of the veneer pieces to use. Cutting the first cut on each piece. I used the grain on the first piece to located my cut on the second pieice, etc. Here you can see piece #14 alyed on top of what will be piece #15. Cutting the second cut on each piece. I use a piece of plexiglass with a strip of tape that is 4 pieces of tape thick to act as a stop. This keeps that angles of all the pieces the same. The tape stop is on the underside of the plexiglass and against the stop. The 2 strips of brown that you see are adhesive backed sand paper to keep the piece from sliding during cutting. Checking the metching grain as I work through the pieces...Notice the order of the numbers. Even one direction and odd the other. If I lyaed them out 1,2,3.... in one direction, Iwould end up with #1 next to #16 and, since the grain pattern moves just a ltttle from piece to piece, I would not have a grain match from 1 to 16. Show side ready for the vaccum bag. Back side ready for the vacuum bag. I have to come clean and adimit that first table top, that you see here, failed in the vacuum bag. I used a bottom caul under the piece and only a piece of screening top of it. While this worked in the past on smaller pieces like boxes and saves having to cut a top caul to fit my workpiece. But this veneer piece was 22" across and It did not work here. As I watched the bag start to apply presure to the veneer, the outside edge (circumference) of the veneer developed a slight wave. That is to say that not alll of the circumference contacted that MDF at the same time. as the pressure increaed the venner pinched and crinkled in 2 places. Too late - piece ruined. After much !!**&^%#, I examined the veneer that I had left and found that I could get another set of 16 pieces from them. This time I took every precuation I could. I flattened each piece with and iron (they were pretty flat to begin with. I kept weight on the pieces after cutting them. I assembled just 2 at a time and pressed them while they were witing to be joined to the next 2 pieces and I used a top caul in the vaccum bag. No problems. Lesson learned. Did some layout work with a compass and straight edge find the corners of the final octagon and cut the veneer to shape by clamping it of my cross cut sled and cutting - x8. I cut rabbets in the 8 pieces that would be the frame for the top and glued 1/4" x 1/8" pieces of ebony (pen blanks from Woodcraft) into the frame pieces. I used the jig that I built ( and posted) to cut the miters for the 8 corners. This jig allows me to set up the meter cut for each corners individually using the w ork piece as the pattern. Why? Because The octogon is not absolutely perfect. General jig pic Place pice on jig with corner on kerf and clamp in place Place removeable fences agains pieces and clamp in place Remove the work pice and cut right and left miters. Pretty good fit..... Start with one piece and work you way around. Getting the length of each piece is critical. So you have to cut the miters for one corner and not change the jig stetting until after those pieces are glued in place and you know you won't have to trim with of those miters. Then set the jig and move on to the next corner. The little caul is used to press the pieces tight to the table for perfect thickness alignment. I was nervouse about gluing to the edge of the mdf, so I precoated the mdf with glue and let it dry to the touch. I cut plines into the frame pieces for strength and alignment. I intentionalliy left the frame proud of the veneer top so palning was required. Planed but not sanded.... Sanded but not finshed....( A power sander on veneer makes me pucker) Finishing now in progress......more later.
  43. 11 points
    Finished! I applied 6 coats of a wiping poly (minwax wipe on poly) over 4 days last week. For some of the first coats i was able to get 2 in 4 hours apart. For the last 2 i let them cure for 24 hours. I sanded between each coat except the 1st and 2nd because they were done too close together to be able to sand. Finished the last coat with a buff with 2,000 grit to remove the final nubs and make the finish buttery smooth feeling. Brought everything upstairs for assembly figured i'd step through how well it can be disassembled. All the parts. I looked at it and immideatly though about how i manufactured my own IKEA table assembly required.... . The stretcher goes through the legs and secures with wedges. Hammer required. It was at the point where i had both legs togehter and was putting the top on that i found a weak point in my design. I didn't make the material outside the wedges large enough and i ended up splitting an end open. No big deal i have some 3/16th brass rod. I drilled a hole 15/16ths of the way though and sent the brass rod home with some superglue so it doens't fall out. Set the table on top and send the screws home through the legs and table is together. So in reality this is FAR easier than anything IKEA ever would sell you. Not sure why they can't get this stuff right..... Here are some glamor shots. Now i just have to wait 7 days to see how it functions in use. So my final thoughts on the extensions. I Don't feel the most confidant in their strength. I'd never put my full weight on them but as far as sitting at the table and leaning on them fully loaded with food they will be more than enough. With out the extensions everything is incredibly strong. I put my full weight on every edge and never got so much as a creak. The table will tip over width wise with probably 150 lbs of force down but that's more than my parents table growing up so no issues there. There is no racking in the assembly i could grab and end and pull the table around. The feet dug into the carpet so pushing doesn't work.
  44. 10 points
    I've only been able to get a few hours in the shop each week lately, so things have slowed down. Having said that, I've made some significant progress, but unfortunately, it doesn't really show. I've finish sanded and glued up the main cabinet, as well as cut the back panel. I used Old Brown Glue, mainly just to try it, but also for the longer open time. I liked it, but keeping it warm is a bit of a pain. I've also cut all the door joinery and finish prepped the parts (after this photo), but no glue yet. Overall, I'm happy with the way it's progressing. I'm just using 1/2" cherry ply for the panels, but I have some ideas to dress up the cabinet fronts. The plan right now will be to try carving some crests, but realistically that won't happen for a while. This was a lot of dovetails for me, but you definitely get efficient at them:
  45. 10 points
    My son needed somewhere to keep his books. I had almost a full spare sheet of ½" baltic birch plywood. I cranked this thing out from design to finish in about 5 hours today. I had it almost totally finished, and then I decided to give the front face a gentle slope so it would be more bottom-heavy and less likely to tip. The final dimensions are something like 14" deep at the bottom and 10" deep at the top, with a consistent angle across the fronts of the shelves and ends. My son approves. The construction is super simple. The sides got dadoes for the shelves. The back panel is ¼" thick baltic birch and is also dadoes into the back. I used glue and a few pin nails to hold it together. Nothing too crazy. I wanted it very simple, very unobtrusive. The kind of thing that just disappears underneath whatever is on it. It's not fine woodworking - it's woodworking that I look at and think, "yeah, it's fine." I did have a little fun with the selection of boards, as the BBP had some deep mineral streaks that I decided to keep clearly visible by selecting carefully to use them on the shelf tops. The first thing he tried to do was climb on it (of course). I need to anchor it to the wall so he can't tip it, but for the moment he seems to get that it's for books and not for climbing. The second thing he did was put a bucket and a toy boat on his new shelf, because when you're almost 2 and have a bucket and boat, that's just what you do. I think he approves! He was smiling a lot. Altogether a morning well spent!
  46. 10 points
    Alright, got a bit impatient. Photo dump time. I couldn't capture the ray fleck on the tops in the pictures, so that sucks. It's not perfect and never was going to be...but I'm happy, happier than I expected to be. I think I made it the best I could have given my skill, time to dedicate, and material.
  47. 10 points
    So i mentioned it a while back that i had a request for a backgammon board. It sound like fun and would be an interesting change from furniture. Over Christmas @Ronn W gave me a crash course in veneering and helped me figure out the complex issues creating a backgammon board might create. This first one is going to be a test to see how it goes. I fully expect to mess it up somewhere. So i started out by taping the field on top of the light color veneer that i wanted for the light triangles. To keep the triangles the exact same size you cut through both veneers at the same time. This way you don't have to worry about accuracy on cutting. After i cut the three light triangles I taped them in to their places with plenty of painters tape on the backside. This is import because you don't want the bevel on the razor blade to push the veneer around as you are cutting near the delicate points that will be formed. The taping above is after i completed both sides but it shows the overkill taping i did to make sure nothing moves. The next step was to rinse and repeat with the dark triangles. I'm going to make the board in 2 parts, getting veneer wide enough to do both on one sheet proved to be difficult. It also isn't necessary as there is generally a divider separating both pieces so i can take advantage of that to do separate veneers here. Typically the boards are made with a hinge in the middle but i wanted to go for something a little different. Still working it out so I'll explain later. Now i'm at the point where i need to add the veneer tape and then prep everything to be glued down. I'm not quite sure how that's going to work so off to do research.
  48. 10 points
    Thanks to government inefficiency, I was off all weekend. The major lifting is done. It needs a lot of cleanup, flattening, etc, but at least it now looks like a bench. I ended up at about 82" long and 24 1/2 inches wide. The gap stop is about 2 1/4". Back to work tomorrow, but after flattening, I'll be on to shaping the chop, making the shelf, making the gap stop and figuring out what I'm going to use for the deadman. All relatively quick, tasks.
  49. 10 points
    I have the drawers finished and knobs installed. My plan was to work on the top this week but that isn't working out. So here are some topless pictures.
  50. 10 points
    Up and running finally. No glamour shots. Messy shop and I'm not 100% sure on placement yet. I need to figure out DC connections, the outlet on the Hammer is larger than 4"...seemed to be like 4 1/2 ish. I ran one quick test piece though. Suction cuppy flat in one pass of a 9+ inch wide piece of walnut scrap.