Leaderboard

So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.

Everyday we have quotes posted in our local paper that were overheard in public. Sometimes there just cute things but most of the time they are pretty funny and in this case fitting to the times.

Well I'm in the process of glassing and epoxy coating the board. At the same time I'm glassing another surf board with my son, I had built that earlier this spring. I'm getting sort of tired of this build, I miss my chairs and the glassing process and sanding process is somewhat tedious. So as a distraction I started on the paddles. For the handles it will have a 10 degree bend at the paddle head, the handle will be somewhat oval, 1.5" by 1.25", and the top of the handle will have a "T" type end. Started with the jig for the 10 degree bend; Strips of paulownia and cherry where prepped about 3/16ths thick and glued; All glued up. Made this blank 3.5" wide, I'll be able to get two handles out of this blank; Jointed and sized both handles and now onto the paddle head. cut out pattern for shape; Using strips of red cedar and paulownia here; Glued and then shaped; Still need to shape the handle more and work on the "T" top. Thanks for looking.

I fixed this: Fine woodworking & attention to detail

Doing good, just finished this up today.

Got this so it's ready for finish. Vanity for a friend.

Thanks Drew I am going to go with your french cleat idea!! Still working on the final layout but that will definitely work. Here are some more progress pics

This morning, I was able to get the new bushings in the front axle body. It weighs every bit of 200 pounds, so I had to go carefully slow, working by myself in this isolation. I was able to roll it around on a moving dolly. I had cut up some leftover scraps of 4x6 into cribbing, figuring I could jump up each of the three "corners", one at the time, by myself. That actually worked great. I could not have done this job, by myself, safely without the cribbing. It was actually kind of fun having to figure it out, and being able to take what time I needed. Some of the cribbing blocks allowed me to get it into position at the shop press, to press in the largest bushing. I had tried to tap it in without the press, but was having an impossible time keeping it straight, and once it got crooked, there was no straightening it back out. I'd have to knock it out with a dead blow hammer, and try again. Once I got it set up on the press, the bearing went right in. The small diameter bushing on the front pivots inside another bushing in the tractor frame. The front of that axle casting was too long to get in the press, but being a small diameter, it was much easier to get lined up so I could pound it in with the 2 pound stone hammer, and some press dies. I stood it against the press, with the back end on the floor, and that went right in too. I got lucky on the big bushing in the frame, and first lick with the dead blow hammer sent it straight enough to finish with a couple of press dies, and the 2 pound hammer. Then I rolled the axle into position under the front of the tractor, installed the bell crank, and started stacking the cribbing, and jumping up each corner. It took me three hours to do all these steps, but I went back to the house to each lunch, and the main axle casting was in the tractor. I had to get Pam to come help me get the axle ends on. I could have done it by myself if I had taken the wheels off, but I called her away from what she was working on, and in fifteen minutes, we had some bolts in each side holding the axle ends on. I spent another couple of hours hooking up the new tie rod ends, and aligning the front tires. This is the first time, since I've owned this tractor, that there is no slop in the front end. The mixed up, for the second time, order of new hydraulic lines is supposed to be here Wednesday, so I might actually get to see if it all works this week.

Outdoor movie night. Burned my chair templates. They were taking up too much room.

If you see two images, it's 'cause I pasted one and drag/dropped the other. If you see none, I don't know WHAT is going on. I see it just fine.

Snagged a 10 foot elm log about 22" diameter. Hopefully it'll make nice lumber.

Bought a new trim router the Bosch cordless becuase well you can never have to many routers right

Still working on the John Deere, when I get some time. It's back together, from the two splits for the reverser clutch system rebuild, and has been for several weeks. In the process of putting it back together, there are some hard hydraulic lines that had to put back together. They had to be disconnected to split the tractor. I found some serious problems caused by idiots working on it in the past. All the flare nuts were distorted from having regular wrenches used on them. After the nut is distorted, it will leak, so then the unknowing mechanic with tighten it some more. Only flare nut wrenches should ever be used on such line nuts, regardless of their size. These require either a 1" wrench, or 1-1/4" wrenches, and flare nut wrenches do come in those sizes, and even much larger. I ordered what I needed off ebay. All the steps of getting to a place where I need more tools adds time in days, as I order stuff, wait for it to get here, and then leave the packages for a couple of days to make sure any virus is dead. Here is the most visible problem I found, and then found that all the nuts, in the whole system were distorted. That's when I stopped, and ordered the large flare nut wrenches. I also printed out a torque chart, and ordered some flare nut crowsfoot sockets to use on a torque wrench. There will be more posts in this thread, but I need to get to work this morning. This has been quite a project. I'll add a couple of extra pictures, as a teaser for the rest of the process-ended up redoing the front axle too. It's been extra slow, since I'm working by myself, without a helper, like I normally do.

More progress today Cut some curves on the top piece Then used @Chestnut idea for a french cleat to hang it. Its two thickness' of wood but I thinned them down to 5/8 ish so it blends in better Then I moved on to make a template for the cove bit to route out the talc shelf. Used the Dewalt mini router with a circle base plate and a nail for a center pin I left two 1/4" tabs on the last pass so I didn't hink it up. Then cut those and cleaned the up with a rasp and sand paper Taped the guide down with double sided tape and use the bit I had on hand to rout out the recess I forgot to take pics but I fired up the lathe (it's been a while) and turned the center post. The post is about 1" round with the base 3/4" x 3/8" deep. I used a forstner bit to drill the hole for it. Pretty much construction complete at this point just need to mark and cut the domino's for the shelves in the morning then break it down and finish sanding it before applying the finish. I really wish the wind would die down so I could burn my scrap bucket...

Bmac check this tiger hard maple log out. I think it will be a good one, I will know soon. If I come up with anymore you and Coop are on the top of the list.

The new, main hydraulic lines came in late yesterday. This morning I installed them, and even painted them with a rattle can. The old ones has been replaced by someone who didn't know what they were doing. These are installed correctly, everything properly torqued with the correct type of wrenches, and even have the separator to keep them from rubbing against each other, like the others did. I started to crop out the dirty cardboard, but decided to leave it. Now I just need to reinstall the loader support frame, and footrest on that side, and it will be ready for fluid, and a test run.....maybe late this evening.

It's about as exotic as i can get with the virus going on but the first day of shorts weather feels good all the same.

Coop, check out the new toy.

I bought this brush on a lark, thinking it was interesting, but no big deal. When I got it, I was surprised at the quality of the brush. It has 3" long natural boar bristles that are just the right amount of stiffness - Stiff enough for general cleaning, but soft enough for delicate stuff too. I couldn't figure out where to keep it, so I drilled a small counterbore on the back and super glued an ND magnet in it. Now I can just stick it to the overarm dust collector on my saw and it is in easy reach. This brush has turned out to be really handy.

Hey everyone this is Dave Darr, owner of Walrus Oil, just noticed the conversation and wanted to offer some insight. All of our Furniture Finishes are curing finishes. The "Furniture Finish" is most similar to your typical Danish Oil. Our "Furniture Butter" and "Furniture Wax" are made of both drying oils and hard waxes. We also offer a Tung-Oil based product called "Cabin Walls and Hardwood Floors" which is probably the fastest drying product we make. None of our finishes have added dryers or synthetics, so they can sometimes take slightly longer to dry than some finishes that have accelerators in the ingredients. In regards to our non-drying finishes, that would be our Cutting Board Oil and Wood Wax for Cutting Boards. When using our Furniture Finishes with stains, we always recommend only using them with oil-based stains that are fully cured. And just to be safe, test it on a small area first or scrap piece of wood to make sure the results meet your expectations. You guys are awesome, thanks for the support, and stay safe out there during this weird time!

Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.

If anyone deserves it, they and first responders do. My wife said she will not go with me Monday morning to Kroger’s senior hour if I wear my whitey tighties as a mask. She will miss the fun!

Not sure how crazy that is. 5G promotes the use of cell phones, which promotes the use of "social" media, which in turn creates a tremendous evolutionary pressure to develop stupidity, and stupidity overwhelms the immune system.

Would you belief that’s a six month old dogwood tree.

There are several places to buy gas springs on line. Here is one example. I would probably construct 2 door panels with frames and thin plywood panels to keep the weight minimal. One long one might work, but may also twist too much if you pull it open from an end.

They think these are weapons.

I recently found these while helping my daughter move from on apartment to another. They come in 1/4” as well. It’s like a typical toggle bolt but the wing nut stays in place and the bolt can be removed and re-inserted. I’ll never use a plain toggle bolt again.

The green stain on the lower part of this piece strongly suggests that it is tulip poplar / Liriodendron tulipifera

I play pool or, did until all this Corona virus started. I played about three times a week played league one night a week and, played in a couple tournaments, you need a pocket full of quarters to feed the tables. A friend gave me this quarter dispenser ( a plastic cylinder with a spring inside it) It was exactly like this one it fell off a table and broke the catch lip off the top. I saved the spring and, being bored I decided to make one on my lathe so I turned a 1 1/4" cylinder now I needed a 1" all the way through well centered because there was only 1/8" of meat on the edges and needed to be a smooth shaft so the quarter didn't hang up all I have is a drill press I wanted to drill halfway from one end and halfway through the other end. After much cussing and many test runs on scrap wood I came on the solution. I drilled a 1" hole halfway through some scrap 3/4 ply than drilled a small hole the thickness of a 8d nail I drilled the same hole in a square blank of wood the drilled hole worked for alignment on my lathe. I turned a 1" dowel to fit in the 1" hole in the 3/4 ply I cut a 8d nail so it went through the ply and would stick through a sliced piece of the 1" dowel that sat proud of the ply about 1/2", I put the nail in my hand drill and spun it against my grinder making a sharp point in the end now I have a piece of 3/4 ply with a dowel sticking out 1/2" and, a sharpened nail centered through all this. I put my 1" forstner bit in my drill press lowered and locked the quill till it was just slightly above the sharpened nail I moved the plywood around until the sharpened nail and the point of the bit lined up and clamped the ply down to the table. My 1 1/4" cylinder has the center holes already established so I set one end on the sharpened nail bring the forstner bit into the other center hole drill through halfway then I flip the cylinder around and set it over the 1" dowel then drill through the other half and you get as smooth a shaft as you can get with a forstner bit. Anyway I could of bought another dispenser for less than $10.00 but this kept me busy for almost 2 days most of this was coming up with this drill press trick the turning and glue up I would have been done by lunch if I already had the drilling jig figured out.

I use my LN Model Makers block plane for this, just a couple passes you can't hardly tell unless your looking for it but enough to break the edge with a consistent end result. Second choice would be sand paper in my hand.

Well...I've almost landed my first dining table commission today. After a week of back and forth emails and designs, we agreed to a design, timber and price. No cash (not quite done until this happens) has exchanged hands yet as we're waiting for life to hopefully return to normal. It's been a real learning experience so far. The table is based (mostly copied) on a few designs that were sent to me. Drawn up in Fusion 360. https://www.huset.com.au/product/jutland-natural-solid-oak-dining-table-alternate-sizes-ton-cz-original

Watching old F1 recaps on YT while making progress on my Ferrari model

If the lid is too fragile to handle the suggested processes, why not sculpt the box edges until it matches? A ever-so-slightly curved line where the two meet is far more difficult to notice than a gap.

Felt I had to post this here... https://profootballtalk.nbcsports.com/2020/04/02/patriots-retrieve-more-than-a-million-n95-masks-from-china/ Robert Kraft gets a lot of headlines - both good and bad - but this quote caught my eye...“In today’s world, those of us who are fortunate to make a difference have a significant responsibility to do so with all the assets we have available to us.”

I havent updated this in a while, but much progress has been made due to being shutdown. I am fortunate in the fact that I can work from home, counting my lucky stars on that. With no commute and no where to go, shop time has increased significantly. Leg vise has been fitted, tested and completed Base is complete. Laid out mortise locations for the slabs yesterday and hope to cut those this afternoon.

Pam hasn't put up the pictures that we took today. Here's the page with earlier ones of these litters. We have deposits on all of these, and a waiting list for the next two litters. So far, the only people that backed out, after being on our waiting list, were from NYC. http://starbornhavanese.com/newpuppies.html It has links to the two litters edited to add: Pam just updated the puppy pages.

I got it all back together, and the first 5 gallons (out of 10 required) of hydraulic fluid in it, but the Sun had caught me, and a strong wind had built enough to blow stuff around inside the building. I felt like I was pushing too hard to get finished, so I walked away from it for today. If I hadn't had to stop, this afternoon, to take pictures of the two litters of puppies, I probably would have finished. Maybe tomorrow...........

Well guys I build em but I've yet to use em. I'm following the tried and true design. It's my understanding, and hopefully my experience this summer, that the bend faces away from you when paddling. The paddle is supposed to enter the water in front of you and exit the water once the paddle becomes parallel to you. This angle allows for more efficient paddling, so I'm told. Doing research for this project I found a site on common paddleboard mistakes. Listed as #1 was using the paddle backwards. Now I'm sure you could make a straight paddle and have it work, but this is the preferred design. So as I learn to paddleboard this summer I may not know what I'm doing but at least I'll look like I know what I'm doing!

When you slice off that first layer to square the log save the pieces and turn some platters with them.

Didn't really plan on doing a build thread on this but...FWIW Didn't like the fit of the sliding dovetails These rails are about 55" tall and its hard to keep them flat on the router table. Probably should have cut them by hand but I thought maybe a smooth surface would help so added this Here' is the result...I can live with that Then I added the profile to them. I also thinned down the ball shelves and added a round over to the front of those. That's where I finished for the night. Off tomorrow and Friday so hope to finish the construction on this tomorrow and then head down to get some plywood and oak to finish the bar cabinets on Friday.

Whether you buy gas, or diesel, you will need to be able to feed it. I have a 100 gallon tank, with a 12v pump that I can sit in the truck to go fill it up, but I don't need that these days, so I use 5 gallon jugs. The nozzles that come on the ones you buy these days are just a PIA. Buy Midwest jugs-however many you think you need. Yellow if diesel. I'd get at least two. I buy them at Tractor Supply, but not sure that's the cheapest place. Discard the nozzle that comes with it, and buy one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133365032164?ViewItem=&item=133365032164 They're much more spill proof than any of the standard ones, that are supposed to be spill proof, and they flow better anyway. You leave the long hose in the tank, and when you see, or hear it filling up, leave the hose in, and lower the jug-no spills. I like the Midwest jugs because they have the best design for the gasket, that you reuse with those nozzles from the seller on ebay. The Midwest gasket fits over the outside of the machined aluminum part. My other jugs, I already had, and had to find other seals for the nozzle, even made some, and they're still easy to lose, or get out of position. Here are some pictures of a diesel Midwest jug. I put two vents on my diesel jugs, and the fuel does flow out faster than with one vent.

There’s a lot about FB that is stupid.

This is slope-dependent, but I have had success rolling crates and pallets with >500lbs of whatever in/on them on black iron pipes. I took them off my pipe clamps in one situation and rolled a tool in its shipping box from its drop point outside my old building, into the building, down a hallway with a concrete floor, into the elevator, and then down the hallway to my old shop space on the seventh floor. I had to use wedges (like door stops) to keep the thing from rolling as I rearranged the pipes but 45 minutes later I had the box in place.

My tablesaw is up against the overhead door in my garage. Since I live in the San Diego area, I can open the door most days and use the outdoors for my outfeed area. But the overhead door makes mounting a light over the saw for nighttime use impossible. I was always working in my shadow. I puzzled over this for awhile, and then my youngest son gave me one of the hooded LED lights from Rockler and the light came on (sorry, couldn't resist!) I used 3/4" EMT to make an arm that went up over my saw from the wall. I mounted a light socket on the end of the arm, then added a switch and cord to it. Viola! It works pretty well with the rest of the lights in my shop.

I’m still waiting to see where the motor mount goes...

Yeah, goat is one fine Bar B Que.

Wax is huge you must wax for smooth operation. The dresser i made for Megan, the 8 drawer walnut one, had drawers that are about the same aspect as yours the tolerances side to side are tight like maybe 1/64 gap both sides so 1/32 total. The trick don't make your drawers square. if the front width of the drawer is 22" the back should be like 21 7/8". So you essentially make a trapozoid. The important part to make your drawers sit flush is to make sure the stops on the back side will have the front flush. For the dresser i made my drawer tight and then used a handplane on the sides to bring them into shape. (my material was solid wood). This is a trick i picked up from period furniture makes. Something similar should be done for the height as well. You only really want to close the gap with the front edge of the drawer. So if the drawer opening is 3.75" your drawer front should be like 3_23/32" or even 3_45/64" after the drawer front sand/plane things down to 3_20/32 - 3_21/32" Another way to get around this is to use a center guide but i assume it's too late for that. Another trick for stops is to buy some of those silicone bumpers for kitchen cabinets and use those. When you shut the drawer you get a nice soft bump and it's ever so pleasing. I know people like BB drawer guides but once you figure out wood guides NOTHING comes close. Now that i'm typing this i'm going to order some cause i'm low. https://www.amazon.com/Shintop-Furniture-Bumpers-Protection-Hemispherical/dp/B01DU0O00W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kitchen+bumpers&qid=1586012794&sr=8-2

One of the best systems I use is multiple white dishpans, and cups, to keep up with each assembly's parts. It worked like a charm when I put the tractor back together after the splits. It was a multi-month project, and it helped immensely in figuring out where everything went back. No left over parts, so far. This particular pan was for the forward facing, Mid-PTO, which I never have any need for, but it had to come out to get the Reverse Clutch out. I forget how many of these I used, but it was a fair number.

It's a 1978 model. The John Deere parts guy said it would be a 2020 when I get through with it. I didn't start out intending to do this much to it, but I keep finding stuff that needs to be redone. I don't know how it worked at all, with that twisted line, but I've used it for 29, or 30 years like that. I couldn't even get the lines to go back together, so I traced it forward. That twisted part was up behind the front frame, and under the hydraulic fluid cooler, so it wasn't in sight. Specs call for torque of 70 to 78 ft. lbs. for that line. I needed two pipes to get the front joint apart. I'll show pics of the big flare nut wrenches after I take some. While I was under there disconnecting the lines, I shook the inner tie rod ends, on that bell crank, and they were scary loose, to the point that I didn't want to drive it like that. Bent a regular puller trying to get them out. Ordered that big assed puller, and it split the bolt end. So, no choice but to take the bellcrank out, to use the hydraulic press, and in the process of getting that out, found out how completely worn out the bushings were on all the pivot points of the axle. So, more tools ordered, more waiting, but all the bushings are out now-a story in itself. That center section of the axle weighs a couple of hundred pounds. One of the best cheap, Chinese tools I've bought. Of course, I ended up having to use them in a non-standard way. That's a fifty buck set of press dies. They go up 1mm each. I ended up being to beat the bushings out, without having to build something to get that beast up to shop press level. The two press dies on the little shaft together: The little one fits inside the bushings in the frame. The bigger one fits the O.D. of the bushings, and the little shaft is for use with a slide hammer. I held that stub with Vise Grips, and hit it with the 2 pound hammer. That worked, in the tight quarters under the front frame. I ruined that slide hammer adapter, but that's the cost of getting the job done. The quarters were so tight under there, for swinging a hammer, that I had to cut a slot through the bushings in order to get them out. They wouldn't budge with blows as hard as I could get on them. In the center axle section, I could get those bushings vertical, and leave penetrating lube on those overnight, but the ones in the frame had to stay horizontal, so penetrant did no good on those, which is why I had to cut them. They'd been in there for 42 years. That one in the last picture was behind the back journal enough that I couldn't get a good swing with the 2 pound hammer, if I put that handle in the die, so I kept stacking smaller ones behind the first one, so I could hit them with the stonework hammer.