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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/11/20 in Posts

  1. 10 points
    Just before Christmas last year our Pastor showed me a quote for new signage at the church. It was for one logo and two 'Worship' signs over the main entrances to the sanctuary. When I saw what was quoted I volunteered to do the signage. They were going to do the signs in metal and the logo would be 48" and vinyl wrapped, also probably metal. I told Bro Terry that I could do the signs but they would be in 1/2" Baltic Birch. His only request was that no grain show on the logo. I found rattle can enamel that matched close enough and used Hammer Tone finish on the letters so they'd look sort of like metal. To completely fill the grain on the logos I used Bondo on the face and spot putty on the edges. I cut two sets of logos at 60" tall (one for each hallway instead of just one hallway, as was quoted). Sanding the Bondo back down to the BB face was no fun at all and neither was filling and sanding all the edges of the letters and logos. But it worked just fine. I sprayed primer and all the rattle can paint out in the back yard - there's no way I'm going to spray paint inside the shop. So that meant there were many days of high wind or rain or cold when I couldn't spray. Once all the paint had cured for 4-5 days I clear coated everything with Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and gloss lacquer. I allowed the top coat to orange peel slightly so it wouldn't show finger prints as easily. To mount everything I used 1/4" aluminum rod cut to about 2" and Liquid Nails for adhesive. I sharpened aluminum mounting rod ends and we held the logo and letters in place and gently tapped to mark where to drill. Because the logo doesn't have any true horizontal or vertical edges I wondered how I would line them up on the walls (one was sheetrock and one was brick). What I came up with was to cut a piece to fill the negative space and then attach boards on the back to hold the entire piece as a unit for marking, then take the backer boards off to mount each piece of the logo individually. All in all I'd say everything came out nicely and our Pastor is pleased. Now he wants a world map to fill a 12' wall where we can mark the areas we support for missions. That ought to be fun! Logo - Cutting letters on CNC - Cutting logo on the CNC - Edges filled with spot putty - Letters ready for clear coat - Logo with alignment guide - Finished signage in one hallway - Enjoy! David
  2. 6 points
    I would like to thank everyone who offered suggestions regarding my planer problems! I waxed the deck, cleaned the rollers, replaced the brushes and checked the electrical input. No problems with the electrical input found. I have to say, that it works as good now as the day that I purchased it. I was able to plane hickory this weekend without any problems (using common sense and took small bites each time). I can't say which upgrade helped the most, but it really doesn't matter as long as it works. Thanks again....!
  3. 6 points
    This was the winter that I was planning to get started on the rocker. I go too sucked into turning instead. I still want to build the rocker, but it will have to wait for next winter. It will probably be dryer by then anyways. I have updated my lathe recently from the Laguna 1216 to the Laguna 2436. Awesome lathe. Here are a couple bowls from this tree though.
  4. 5 points
    OK I admit it. Sometimes I shop at Harbor Freight, but hey, Tom does, too, and he does not suffer junk gladly. Occasionally they have something. So my New Year's resolution (which I also vowed I wasn't actually going to do) was to organize my shop. My pressing need was to create a space for my lathe tools to be when I wasn't actually turning with them. The idea of building something did not excite me. Before Christmas Tom had mentioned that he was looking at mechanic's carts, which got me thinking and looking around. Most all the carts I saw had drawers that are too narrow for my tools, but HF had this 30" 4 drawer tech cart with 25" wide drawers, perfect for my 24" tools. So I bought one. I put it together today, and I am pleasantly surprised to be able to report that it is very well done. Although I am dismayed to see how quickly the drawers filled up and I still have a few tools to stow. Maybe I should have bought two (I mean I can't get rid of any tools -- I might need some of these some day ). It came partially disassembled in a carton weighing about 110 lbs, but it's easy to unpack and bring in piecemeal. I took the drawers out of the chest which made it easy. The assembly instructions are as you might expect, not great, but interpretable, and typical for products these days. The cart went together easily. All the holes lined up and parts all fit. Some of the nuts are in awkward places requiring creative wrenching solutions, but a minor challenge. I purchased the optional fold out shelf and I recommend you install this as you are building the cart as you will otherwise have to remove some of the nuts you just creatively wrenched. All together it appears well built and sturdy. The steel pieces were all completely painted with a good finish. The drawers latch in place when closed and operate reasonably smoothly, not butter smooth, but no cursing is required. The drawers are locked if the lid is down (I wish they did not lock, but that's how they make these carts). Gas struts hold the lid open just fine. The fold out table seems secure. The caster locking mechanism seems stiff, but may just need some breaking in. Otherwise it rolls easily. Not a bad product as far as I can see.
  5. 5 points
    Finally got to glue-up for the box. Sanded everything from 100 to 220, did a little tune-up on a couple spots that I left till last, then dabbed some Titebond II on the pins and squared it up. Inserted the false top and now it's taking shape - permanently. So I got out the scraper since this sapele requires a lot of surface prep. Never enough, it seems. Still haven't decided on a finish, but AquaCoat seems to flatten it out quite well. Although I'm starting to wonder if I really need it to be perfectly flat; it's not a table. But it is square. I got stopped because I was running low on propane for my heater and it's snowing today; and a friend dropped by to give me an over/under Beretta 12 GA shotgun... That's a show stopper for sure.
  6. 5 points
    Busy weekend and not much time in the shop for me. Did take a nice cherry and walnut tree down so I've got some more logs to mill. Need to feed the habit and stay 2 years ahead. Worked alot on the bottom portion of the chair. Have really been racking my brain about how to handle the seat opening. My upholstery guy said just router out a ledge inside the opening for the seat to drop onto. But I did not feel comfortable routing out that groove with all the curves and back by the leg stem the ledge needs to be deeper. I needed to do something as the side rails were too wide and looked way too bulky. Also did not want a square corner in the front part of the seat were the cushion drops in. So I took a deep breath and I struck a .5" wide line on the inside edge of the side legs where the seat will rest. Over to the bandsaw and cut along the line. Looks a lot better now; So I like the width of the side rails now and I was happy how I blended in the side pieces to the front support and the back support; Now I have a nice outline and the proper width in my seat frame. I plan to glue and screw strips for the seat to rest on. Need to talk with my guy on how far down on the frame to place the strips. Here I'm trying one in; So that was a big step forward. I also did some bandsawing and shaping of the seat frame. You can see her it's looking a lot more refined; I also tapered the back legs, here's hoping @Coop I got enough meat. Quick note about design. I am remaking the side back supports. They were just too short for my liking. I started to play with them and the headrest and the cross supports and it did not look good too me. Going to increase length 4". This will mean the chair will be approx 43" high, the original was 40" high but my seat does not slope back and as low as the original. I think that's were the porportions got thrown off. Thanks for looking.
  7. 5 points
    Moving ahead and I'm really pleased with the progress. Completed the front leg joints. I left them bulky to have flat surfaces for the routing, after the routing I placed my pattern over the leg and shaped them some. In this pic the leg on the right has already had a visit with the bandsaw and the one one the left is headed there. Both side supports after bandsawing, starting to take shape; Front legs went quickly; And I think we are starting to see the chair form, but still bulky; Next I did an offset turning of the front legs, following the same steps as the Maloof Rocker. Then cut out the front and back seat cross supports. Dominoed the front joint and it's looking good; And the money shot; I'm really happy how it looks. Still way bulky in some places and I need to attach the back seat support. Also need the back cross supports and headrest cut out. Once thats done and those pieces are fitted I'll meet again with the upholstery guy and get the shaping tools out. This is going way more smoothly than I thought, hoping I'm not overlooking something.
  8. 4 points
    All fixed. Doing this reminds me why I like wood working much more than steel. When I was done a clean up of my hands was in order. A combination of rust and oil. Don't touch anything you will stain it. After this, sawdust on my hands puts a smile on my face. Gloves don't like me. My hands sweat profusely. Cant be a surgeon. Fixing the drill press was important. But it is a chore. Working in wood is a pleasure. It gives me oxygen!
  9. 4 points
    Thanks gee-dub for the plan! This will be helpful for me. no turnbuckles required on the edges. The center turnbuckle only holds the panels in. It takes less than a minute after 2 try's extremely stable You get 2 different dimensions. I changed from the plan by having the pine wrap and cover the plywood edge. A great idea. storage is minimal. Less than a sheet of plywood. and a little bit of wood. I screwed it together which gave me some experience with my new drill press. My efficiency with drilling has jumped multifold!. Nice tool.
  10. 3 points
    Gee dub is the man to talk with for home built jigs, benches and cabinet's for the shop.
  11. 3 points
    So with the prototype #3 complete I've ferreted out most of the potential issues that I think I'm going to have with the project. Step 1 was stock selection. I dug through the 6/4 stock I bought to make the chairs. For the rear legs i wanted close to rift sawn stock that had a swoop in the grain that would match the bend of the rear legs. I was able to get 8-9 of the legs with perfect grain. I don't want to be bee too picky as they are a use chair not a show chair. I used my 1/4" thick template to outline blanks. This example is probably the worst grain that I had for the legs. Most of the other are tighter and more strait. I cut the outside off first. After I got the legs to this point I took them to the jointer to flatten 1 side. After I flattened the 1 side I cut each blank out of the stock. I operated this way because i wanted the cuts to be as strait as possible between the blanks to minimize waste. Cutting 1 leg out of a 5" wide by 42" long piece of lumber is wasteful. I can nest them and get 3 pieces out of a 7" wide board. The other benefit is if the grain is running in a good direction I can get good grain and color match and preserve more of the preferable rift sawn grain. This does create a HUGE issue. Joinery reference surfaces are non existent on 2 sides now. This is solved by marking the center point of the rails and using a routing sled to finalize the shape of the legs. I believe mar does the rear legs from blanks the way he does in the dining chair series to make it easier to maintain the joinery reference surfaces. I feel maintaining that surface is unimportant because the next steps with the legs will reestablish good joinery surfaces. After each leg is liberated from the main stock, they are planed so the top face is made parallel to the jointed face. I planed after separating them because I had my layout lines marked. Also the wider stock was easier to control on the jointer but is less important on the planer. With the blanks planed to thickness I mounted them into my template sled for shaping. The sled has 2 sides. The first side takes the rough blank and allows me to position it to set the first reference edge. I have a reference mark on the sled that provides me the center line for the chair side rails. This allows me to position the blank on the opposite side of the sled. On the opposite side the previously routed edge references the fence, in this case it's the block that hold the toggle clamps, and allows the blank to be shaped to exact size. For reference the sled is explained here (https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/30442-dining-chairs/?do=findComment&comment=401609). For this round I only managed to get 1 side of the rear legs done. From the off cuts shown in picture #2, I was able to get at least 1 front leg and in some cases 2. Because the stock contained a lot of rift grain the front legs generally have minimal grain runout and have nice strait grain. My waste from off of this is quite minimal as a result. This waste will be used as well to make some turning blanks. I think I'm going to use it to experiment with some really large Celtic knots. I'm goign to build the chairs from the back rest forward. I will join the rear legs together first. Second the front legs will be attached to the rear legs with the side rails. I will then grab dimensions for the front rail and will assemble the side rails, front rail, and front legs all at once. With the construction going this way I'll need to have the back rail and headrest rail cut out first. I made a routing sled for the crest rails as well. This one sucked to use a lot. Because it was so small i had a lot of catches and it scared the crap out of me too many times for my liking. I also cut out the rear and side rails. This will rest until I need them. Then i will cut them closer to final dimensions and template route them as well. More to come here.
  12. 2 points
    You can get colored leather, some of the aniline dyed leather is quite color fast and should hold it's color well over time. My thought is that fabric is the better choice, though this would probably depend on the surroundings. The style and era of furniture is well suited to a fabric.
  13. 2 points
    Ditto the above. If you check everyone's profile you're gonna find that we all started sometime. And if you look at the questions being asked you're gonna find they are often being asked by someone who is "experienced".
  14. 2 points
    I'm building a book case for a friend out of walnut so I had an ogee bit I haven't used in... I don't know how long any way I'm getting multiple pieces out of a wide board then cutting off individual pieces, rinse and repeat. Well my first attempt was less than desirable burn marks, small chips etc. so I went back into my memory and remembered the old add tape to the fence trick run the board through remove the tape, run the board through again for a clean up pass I still wasn't happy and was thinking about going to town for a better ogee bit (25 mi. round trip) screw that so my new plan was 2 layers of tape to the fence and one layer on the table I ran the board through took one layer of tape off, ran board through took second layer off, ran it through then took the tape off the table (you guessed it) ran the board through one last time a little light sanding I got a very crisp profile, no burning and, no chipping ripped it off on the table saw and did this 5 more times ( I made a couple extra in case I screw up ). Anyway I got some quality trim with a old crappy ogee bit with the old blue tape trick on steroids.
  15. 2 points
    I have some small dmt diamond sharpening plates. If i need my cuts to be nice and crisp I'll lap my old tired bit with a couple strokes on the flat side and it makes a world of difference. If there is backwards grain I'll also take the last light cut in a climb orientation. I guess i only do this if the piece is large enough to control. If it's a small piece i try and orient the grain so I'm never cutting against the grain.
  16. 2 points
    It might seem strange to have a review of a floor jack on a woodworking forums, but I have used them for moving machines more than a few times. I bought a 40' shipping container recently, and just put it on wooden blocks temporarily. We put it on solid concrete blocks for a more permanent foundation. When we started leveling it, we used the 3 ton floor jack, that I already had, and a bottle jack. It was too scary with the bottle jack, so I went to Harbor Freight, and bought another floor jack, so we could safely jack up one side, or one end without being in harms way. I was surprised at the quality of this jack. I had looked at CL, to see what was available, and there was a SnapOn listed for $400. That SnapOn looks identical to this particular model from Harbor Freight-not close, but absolutely identical. It's also currently on sale for $99.99. I actually bought it a couple of days ago for 129.99, but the salesman told me to bring the invoice back for a price adjustment. I haven't gotten around to it, but will. This thing surprised me, and it operates much better than my old one. I'm sure it will be the first one reached for when we need one. They come in a bunch of different colors. I'm not sure how long the sale lasts, or what coupons might apply. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-orange-64200.html?_br_psugg_q=floor+jack
  17. 2 points
    Yes sir, I think you have substantial. I think you could have close encounters in that chair without a problem! . A Woodworking friend called yesterday after watching a Popular Woodworking video or something similar, on the Maloof rocker and asked if I watched it. I told him no, as we have Bmac. I had to explain.
  18. 2 points
    It will stick the pieces together, sure. But only about as strong as your last kindergarden popsicle-stick project. Scrape or sand to bare wood for the glue to work as intended.
  19. 2 points
    No, not reliably. I think it would with dye though.
  20. 2 points
    I believe I'd begin by repositioning the thrust bearings - the bearings mounted perpendicularly and behind the blade above and below the table. You'll probably need to remove the blade completely to do this adjustment. I'm not familiar enough with that model Jet to know if they're on an eccentric or if the posts they mount to are hexagonal going into the mounting fixture. Either way, they can be repositioned by rotating the mounting stem so that the blade rides roughly in line with the first outermost concentric circle (you have an outer circumference, then several inner concentric circles making up the bearing). On yours, one is too far outside and one is way too far inside. The photo below is on an Inca bandsaw, but the position of the blade relative to the thrust bearing is what you're shooting for. Before you start, back the side guides completely away from the blade so that they don't influence the blade position at all. Once the thrust bearings are positioned correctly and the blade is at proper tension, then adjust the side guides so that they are set about the thickness of a $100 bill folded in half from the blade. Once you have it tracking correctly forward the bill to the address I'm sending you via DM.
  21. 2 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  22. 1 point
    Hello, First let me just say thanks in advance for any advice given. I also want to say I am NOT your master woodworker so please keep your criticism to a minimum. I have never had anyone to show me how to do these things and have had to learn this stuff on my own so I am doing this by trial and error. I have made mistakes and spent money that I wish I hadn't spent but I learned along the way so I guess it was worth it. I have been trying to setup a workshop to do small projects in for some time now. I have a few tools and I am to the point where I feel like I am about out of space and I have everything I think I need (I know that's never possible). This is what I have right now as far as larger tools. I do have mostly all Dewalt FlexVolt power tools. I think my favorite is the track saw by far. Grizzly 14" Band Saw G0555X - w/ Bear Crawl Cub Mobile Base T28922 Grizzly 14" Drill Press G7944 w/ Bear Crawl Heavy-Duty Mobile Base T28000 Grizzly 6" x 48" Belt/9" Disc Combo Sander G1014ZX w/ Bear Crawl Cub Mobile Base T28922 (that is being delivered tomorrow) Kreg Router Table System w/ Porter Cable 7518 router (Advice received from here on the router). I currently have a Dewalt Table Saw and Miter Saw built into my workbench but I was considering buying a Grizzly table saw. This is where I was looking for some advice. There are 2 things I want to get which are dust collection and the table saw. I was looking at the following models and was wondering if I could get some feedback. I can get the mobile base for the Grizzly saw and keep everything mobile to suit my needs due to space. I would take the top off the bench and just replace it with new wood so I would have a nice work top space. I have other solutions for Miter Saw so that is not an issue. The biggest thing I need right now though is dust collection because no matter what I do I spend a lot of time cleaning up due to the dust and I try to keep it very clean so my wife is not getting anything upstairs. I feel like I spend more time cleaning than I do working. Table Saw - Grizzly G0691 - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Long-Rails-Riving-Knife/G0691 Portable Cyclone Dust Collector - Grizzly G0861 - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-2-HP-Portable-Cyclone-Dust-Collector/G0861 I don't know much about either one of these but I have been reading about both. The problem is I have read so many mixed reviews and input from different sources and by time I get finished I am so confused by what to do I am no further ahead than I was when I started. The next day I start right over again reading more articles and reviews and it just turns into this cycle of "what to do and believe".
  23. 1 point
    First, that's an awesome shop. Clean organized with a good amount of space. Mobile tools are always good, even if they don't move ever (like mine) it's still helpful when that setscrew falls out on a pulley or some maintenance needs to be done. There are mixed reviews on grizzly tools but over all i look at them as a mediocre tool that gets good support from it's company. This is better than a good tool that receives poor support. It sucks when a problem happens but if the company takes care of you it makes life a lot easier. I had that table saw for a long time. Is it a good saw, no not really but it gets the job done. Personally for your setup I'd fill holes in a tool lineup before you start replacing tools. Look at the types of projects you complete, or the types of projects you want to complete and fill in your gaps that way. From a 500 foot view i see you don't have a jointer or planer. A jointer and planer will make all the difference in the world to keeping projects strait and square. Looking back i don't know how I ever managed making the things I did with out them. If i had to choose between [ dewalt job site saw, jointer, planer] and [ cabinet saw and no jointer and no planer] I'd take the job site saw every single time. (all of my core stock ripping is done on my bandsaw... table saw is for crosscuts, daddos, and tenons) Dust collection gets more important once a jointer and planer is added. My thoughts on DC are get the harbor freight DC and either run it as is and save for a big unit, or mod the HF dc into a 2 stage unit. I planned to mod my old HF DC to a two stage unit but found out It wouldn't save me a ton of money and would take a lot of time and effort that I didn't really want to do. The best part of the HF DC is they can be found used for cheap or if bought new can be sold easily and recover a good potion (60%-70%) of the initial cost. Those short cyclones don't separate well and honestly I'd recommend getting a single stage unit with a bag and save all the extra money. The cyclone is so small they don't end up accomplishing much.
  24. 1 point
    Duh, Without questions, there are no answers. There's not one of us here that isn't still learning something from someone on this forum. This place is different than most. It's here to provide "real" help for those that ask for it. Not here to pick apart anyone's project, unless they are asked to. This is a "learning" forum. you learn from us, and we learn from you. As far as I know there is only one rule that's true. "Without pictures, it didn't really happen" Welcome, and jump right in we're friendly!
  25. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums and don't be intimidated at all. To advance your skills you want to hang around and learn from those that have "been there done that". You won't advance your skills hanging around people that have the same skills as yours. Everyone here is still learning, each is just learning at a different level. Ask all the questions you want.
  26. 1 point
    Welcome! I don't think it's possible to as too many questions. The best answers come from posts that are explained well and provide pictures/drawings. There is a lot of good information here. These guys are generally responsible for most of what I know.
  27. 1 point
    Not sure if you have made your lighting choice or not but I bought these on amazon and I love them. I have them in my garage and I have 11ft ceilings in there and it made a HUGE difference. These were very simple to install and did not require me to cut out anything. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXFG3BX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  28. 1 point
    I've learned the same thing. That last pass should be very light and run through at a moderate, steady speed. Makes a world of difference. I also like to make the second to last pass lighter, maybe an 1/8" or less.
  29. 1 point
    Several months ago I posted about making a bandsaw follower based on the Brian Boggs article in Dec '18 FWW. Most of that discussion is on page 67 of "What did you do today?" https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/27535-what-did-you-do-today/page/67/ Lately I have been rethinking this bandsaw follower and I think I have a better idea on how to do it. The thing is that if you have a single follower pin or point (typically placed in front of the blade), then the distance from the follower to the saw teeth changes depending on the angle of the cut path. This is not a real big problem on a gently curved template, but if there is a tighter curve the saw kerf won't follow the template as well. It occured to me that a solution might be to place the saw teeth in the center of a cylindrical (or half cylinder) pin of known diameter. That way no matter what the cut path, the saw teeth would always be a known distance from the template surface. This is what I did so far: Cut into a 3/4" sheet half way. Carefully center a 1/2" drill bit exactly on the kerf. Friction fit 1/2" dowel standing 3/8" proud. With the dowel center carefully marked, use the bandsaw to cut through to the exact center and stop. The plywood is clamped to the table and the test block is mounted to an old template. Viewed from the rear, the guide pin and template can be seen. The partially complete cut, then the complete cut. A view of the guide pin after the cut. A little worse for the wear, but replaceable. There are a couple of drawbacks to this technique. First, the template is under the piece, so the piece obscures your intended path. You kinda havta use a Braille technique to decide how much and when to rotate the piece to keep from twisting the blade. Second, Your cut line will be 1/4" away from the template surface so you have to compensate for this when making up the template.
  30. 1 point
    If your still using the DeWalt blades. Give "Infinity Tools" a look, they have better replacement blades that can take multiple honings and will last a hell of a lot longer.
  31. 1 point
    Well done David! Your tithes for 2020 have been covered!
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    From Titebond website: http://www.titebond.com/resources/use/glues Frequently Asked Questions Can surfaces that have been painted or stained be bonded using Titebond Wood Glues? Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. The Titebond Polyurethane Glue may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces, but it is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.
  34. 1 point
    +1. Opaque coatings are about the only way to protect wood from the ravages of the sun. Barring that, epoxy sealers known as CPES, followed by a quality outdoor varnish like Epifanes, is commonly used for outdoor projects in areas of high moisture. The furnace of Phoenix is a different animal, so it may not fare as well.
  35. 1 point
    Yeah i'd use the WD40 and scotch bright myself but you have me thinking i should chk mine LOL Hasn't moved much in the last 15 years
  36. 1 point
    Well I think your observation is spot on for that pic, but I think that pic is a little deceiving. They are still 2" wide. I'll reduce the width to about 1.5" and won't change them thickness wise much if at all. I think the finally dimension of those back legs at the tip will be 1.5" x 1", I'm ok with that. For example I turned the front legs to 1.25" at the base. We'll see but I appreciate the observation. Maybe I should put a max weight sign on the chair!
  37. 1 point
    I wish I did not have this problem. But all the advice, kindness and consideration boosts my confidence knowing that quality answers are at my fingertips due to this pleasant and willing community! Thanks You
  38. 1 point
    Turn the vac on, you'll be amazed at how much better sanding is when the dust is actually pulled away. The shock may only be static, but I would take precautions against electrucution from the tool, just in case.
  39. 1 point
    I'd bet it's static electricity. A ground wire from the sander around the DC hose to a screw on the vac or DC. should solve the problem.
  40. 1 point
    I hold it a little farther than is intended, probably. The balance is best for me with my thumb, and index finger forward of the side handle, which means I operate the trigger with my middle finger, instead of my index finger. The day would have been perfect for the lift, but they were all rented out before I called, so I just played with the saw a little.
  41. 1 point
    I'll forward my address. I would highly recommend requesting a catalog from Iturra Design. His catalog has pretty much all you need to know about bandsaws, including setup, tensioning, replacement parts, tension gauges, accessories, etc. A true wealth of information. I don't see how he can send out what he sends out without charging for it. Iturra Design 1-904-642-2802 Toll Free: 888-722-7078 Email: iturradesign@gmail.com 4636 Fulton Road Jacksonville, Florida 32225-1332
  42. 1 point
    +2, although I sometimes use alcohol on the rollers. Waxing the bed seems to help the most. Another thought: the design uses intake air for the chip ejector fan to cool the motor. If any of the shroud is broken, or clogged with chips, that may also allow the motor to overheat, which will also trip the overload breaker.
  43. 1 point
    I clean the rollers on mine with mineral spirits and wax the table with a good paste wax
  44. 1 point
    Or just go get a shiny piece of wood grain Formica, cause that's what it would look like. Can you tell what I think of thick, shiney finishes?
  45. 1 point
    I plan to take a class from Steve Latta in may.. stringin , etc. Am really looking forward to it.
  46. 1 point
    Fits mirror perfect. Jus need to add a couple outside layers for the rabbit...
  47. 1 point
    I was thinking maybe shoot them a phone call or email and see if they have some for internal purposes. I'd just say I was an art student studying Maloof's later work.
  48. 1 point
    I've used a couple of the "skylight" panels that are 1'x4'. They diffuse the light much better than the other fixtures, and they're only about 3/4" thick. These are intended to be surface mounted, so they actually have trim around the edge. The negatives are that they're more expensive, and they're hard wired. If I was starting my lighting over, I'd probably just use a few more of those for the even light through the shop. That's one on the ceiling over my work bench.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.