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  1. 15 points
    This is a bowl that my wife, Marcia, made. It's made form two pieces of Khaya (African mahogany) sandwiching a thin piece of zebra wood. The rim and stem are accented with Inca Gold Gilder's Paste. The design and work are her own. I consulted on the project, but surprisingly little. Don't know about you all, but I was impressed.
  2. 14 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 14 points
    Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL
  4. 13 points
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  5. 11 points
    I've posted previously that we were very fortunate to host Darrell Peart for a weekend workshop a couple of weeks back. The seminar was great. I know everyone left with a better understanding and appreciation for what all goes into a Greene and Greene style piece. I had been planning on making a side table for the Morris chair I finished last year and thought the Fremont night stand would be a great piece to go with it. Unfortunately the space isn't wide enough to fit it in, so I'm thinking maybe Darrell's Tercet table might work better. In the meantime, we have a file cabinet that doesn't go with anything else in the room. I've modified the Guild's Fremont night stand plans to use as a file cabinet replacement as my next project. Line drawing elevations: I'm going back and forth on deciding whether to have the doors swing open or be attached to the file drawers behind them. I have a space limitation on the left door swing, so I may attach them. Back view Side view CNC router cut templates. Starting the rough milling process. The thicker stock is 9/4 so I'll resaw it down to yield the 6/4 final thickness for the legs and use the thinner cutoff for the drawers. The wider 4/4 boards will get resawed for veneering the panels. My plan is to use traditional wooden runners for the upper drawers and Blum undermount Blumotion slides for the file drawers. Should be a fun project for me!
  6. 11 points
    Progress! I've applied finish (ARS) and mounted the doors. The doors aren't perfect by any means. I screwed up when gluing up the outer doors. I didn't follow Matt's advice to use the main cabinet as a template for gluing the doors to ensure consistent geometry. I simply forgot to do it in my rush to get them glued up. The end result is that outer doors are slightly out of square relative to the inner doors and main cabinet. Having said that, they hang and swing nicely, so overall I'm happy. As well my drawers are recycled from a previous project, so they don't fit exactly, but are fully functional. I still have to make all the tool holders, but at least it's on the wall now...
  7. 11 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  8. 11 points
    Well @Spanky here it is at long last, something from that piece of box elder you gave me. When I got the protective paint off the original piece of wood there were some natural cracks and bark inclusions that dictated cutting out a smaller piece of wood to turn. Ultimately "A Different Angle" was made from the "filet" of the board, but as I was trying out ideas and cutting the board down I decided that I really liked the wedge shape of the blank and would try to incorporate that. There are a couple of small irregularly shaped fragments left over that might still become something in my shop or I may give some to a member of my club who puts together fragments of wood for his blanks. Once I had the fillet, I turned it round and then knowing what I would be working with I did some sketches. These were mostly Ogee forms. I showed these to Marcia who looked at them for a moment and then said "Why don't you do a diamond". To which I spluttered " That's a terrible idea" and, after blathering a bit more, "I'll sketch it and show you". Then after eating my hat, I went to the workshop and turned it. Here's some other views: It's definitely a different shape, but I like it.
  9. 10 points
    I finally decided to build a miter station. Despite not really having room for one, I realized I can't afford to go without the storage it provides. I have so much stuff that it's just impossible to stay organized and clean. I started this a couple of months ago, after my somewhat traditional winter break from the shop (I still have a project in limbo that I started in November as well!) I really couldn't see a way to get a full 8' to the left, but I rarely need to cut anything like that anyway so I went with 6' to the left and 2' to the right. I am using a lot of what Marc did in his miter station guild project, but didn't really follow his cabinet techniques. I also consider this a primer for making my desk and maybe some kitchen cabinets. I got a lot of mistakes out of the way on this project so hopefully future ones will go smoothly. One problem I ran into is that I bought the plywood 2 weeks apart. So they ended up not being the same size. Also I forgot to trim the cabinet stock to consistent size at the table saw after breaking them down with the track saw. As a result, my first cabinet was 1/8" out of square. The next 3 ended up perfect though. You can see the saw that I bought in February and still haven't even plugged in. It gets moved from spot to spot as I work on this project. Bought out the stock of all Home Depots drawer slides, then Lowes as well. I wanted good slides, but not top of the line. I paid around $20 per set. They aren't self close, but that is ok. Not sure it needs to be My tops are 2 doubled up sheets of plywood with a layer of hardboard so it's nice and smooth. Just a preference really, no real reason for it to be that way. Used brad nails to act as clamps (because I just had to use my new California Air Tools compressor that I got that same day - that thing rocks) Drawer stock, not very exciting. Very few of my drawers were the same size. Part of that is just inexperience in making drawers. One cabinet in particular I wanted difference sizes for different kinds of tools though. This is only about 1/2 the drawers, as I just don't have room to build more than 8 drawers at once. Top together without the trim, drawer boxes installed in a couple of cases.You can see the inconsistency in my spacing there. Some of the drawers I ended up moved when I wasn't satisfied with how they looked. Oh and in the background you can see my foam board that I cut the cabinet plywood on. As I was cutting the last piece, the wind caught the foam board and made it explode into four pieces. Almost like it shattered. I guess that foam was end of life anyway. False front stock. I ended up using true Uncle Cletus wood. I bought a couple of 14" wide, 11' long 8/4 walnut boards from a local guy 3 years ago. The plan was to use them for my desk. Unfortunately they were just too warped for any pieces longer than a few feet, so I used them for this. Here is an example of how bad these boards were. In some cases I couldn't even get 3/4" First false front in Learned a lot of valuable lessons here. I'm not confident in my cabinet squareness or my ability to cut the drawer fronts to perfect width. So I went long on every one of them. Figured I'd just trim them magically to be flush. In fact I bought the Festool RO90 to help with this, but truthfully it didn't prove to be incredibly effective on walnut end grain. As a result I built a shooting board and will try that later. I definitely made some alignment mistakes. This one I held it in place and put brads in it, and it had shifted. So I glued a piece on to the short side that clearly doesn't match. It's shop furniture. If it was for my house I'd have found matching grain or pulled the front off and fixed it. It went smoother after that. I tried to replicate what Marc did by putting the fronts on while the cabinets are laying on their back. When I tipped them back up right, the spacing was off on all of them because there is a little bit of travel in the up and down motion of the slides. So I pulled them all off and did it with the cabinet right side up. However, since they were measured, cut and positioned to the laying down orientation, to get the right gaps between drawers I ended up with the fronts being screwy. In some places they were just a hair lower than the drawer box. Also I forgot that my drawers were all different sizes on the other cabinets and didn't change the template to match. So I ended up using wood filler to fix errant drawer pull holes. This is the one I finished up today, it went great. And it was actually an accident that the bottom two drawers are bookmatched, and the top drawer was cut from the exact same board as the 2nd drawer so it has grain continuity. Obviously the top wasn't big enough so I had to glue up another board. I did a horrible job with grain matching. But again - shop furniture. I still have a bit to do, but I'm really really hoping to get these done on this long weekend.
  10. 10 points
    I've only been able to get a few hours in the shop each week lately, so things have slowed down. Having said that, I've made some significant progress, but unfortunately, it doesn't really show. I've finish sanded and glued up the main cabinet, as well as cut the back panel. I used Old Brown Glue, mainly just to try it, but also for the longer open time. I liked it, but keeping it warm is a bit of a pain. I've also cut all the door joinery and finish prepped the parts (after this photo), but no glue yet. Overall, I'm happy with the way it's progressing. I'm just using 1/2" cherry ply for the panels, but I have some ideas to dress up the cabinet fronts. The plan right now will be to try carving some crests, but realistically that won't happen for a while. This was a lot of dovetails for me, but you definitely get efficient at them:
  11. 10 points
    My son needed somewhere to keep his books. I had almost a full spare sheet of ½" baltic birch plywood. I cranked this thing out from design to finish in about 5 hours today. I had it almost totally finished, and then I decided to give the front face a gentle slope so it would be more bottom-heavy and less likely to tip. The final dimensions are something like 14" deep at the bottom and 10" deep at the top, with a consistent angle across the fronts of the shelves and ends. My son approves. The construction is super simple. The sides got dadoes for the shelves. The back panel is ¼" thick baltic birch and is also dadoes into the back. I used glue and a few pin nails to hold it together. Nothing too crazy. I wanted it very simple, very unobtrusive. The kind of thing that just disappears underneath whatever is on it. It's not fine woodworking - it's woodworking that I look at and think, "yeah, it's fine." I did have a little fun with the selection of boards, as the BBP had some deep mineral streaks that I decided to keep clearly visible by selecting carefully to use them on the shelf tops. The first thing he tried to do was climb on it (of course). I need to anchor it to the wall so he can't tip it, but for the moment he seems to get that it's for books and not for climbing. The second thing he did was put a bucket and a toy boat on his new shelf, because when you're almost 2 and have a bucket and boat, that's just what you do. I think he approves! He was smiling a lot. Altogether a morning well spent!
  12. 10 points
    Alright, got a bit impatient. Photo dump time. I couldn't capture the ray fleck on the tops in the pictures, so that sucks. It's not perfect and never was going to be...but I'm happy, happier than I expected to be. I think I made it the best I could have given my skill, time to dedicate, and material.
  13. 10 points
    Thanks to government inefficiency, I was off all weekend. The major lifting is done. It needs a lot of cleanup, flattening, etc, but at least it now looks like a bench. I ended up at about 82" long and 24 1/2 inches wide. The gap stop is about 2 1/4". Back to work tomorrow, but after flattening, I'll be on to shaping the chop, making the shelf, making the gap stop and figuring out what I'm going to use for the deadman. All relatively quick, tasks.
  14. 9 points
    The move is done. Here it is in its new happy home. Now I'm just waiting on my electrician. That'll probably be next week. The movers basically just carried the thing up the stairs one step at a time. And the blurred photos are not to hide their identities, these guys were really fast and efficient. Now to put it together and do some shop re-arranging.
  15. 9 points
    I am about to begin my next build, and it has 8 drawers. As many of you know, I like making drawers ... complex drawers. And these ones are no exception.[ It got me thinking about the improvements I'd like to make to my Moxon vise. I have plans to make a new Moxon vise, using steel screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted, and all the parts are waiting in my workshop. But they will wait until this build is completed. And so I decided to modify the Moxon vise I have been using for the past 8 years. The Moxon vise is not simply about holding a board to saw dovetails. It is also about holding two boards together to transfer the tails to the pin board. In regard to the holding-to-transfer, David Barron designed a useful jig, a dovetail alignment board ... The issue I have with this is that I do not want another appliance to add to the ones I already have. But I like the idea, and wanted to incorporate it. To cut to the chase, here is my modified Moxon vise .... The first item is the ledge at the rear, which is covered in non-slip. The non-slip is for stair treads. The ledge is an idea taken from Joel Moskowitz (Tools for Working Wood), and is intended to use with a clamp when the tail board may need to be clamped. I have used clamps in the past, and so I know it is a good idea. Where this ledge differs is that it has a raised, hinged section, that places the tail board 16mm above the chop. This was also present on my previous version ... This allows the higher section to be folded out of the way when sawing ... The reason for this is that a coplanar top surface will lead to the chop being marked up by the knife when transferring the tails. This is the reason I recommend that the Moxon vise does not receive a table at the rear. It is why I prefer instead to raise the work piece up higher than the chop, out of harms way. The rear of the board is supported by the "I-beam" (which can be seen in the photos. The inside of the chop and the vise face are now covered by a material made from a composite of cork and rubber. BenchCrafted sell this as "crubber". I researched it on the 'Net and purchased a large piece on eBay. Note above that there are dados in the chop and the face. The dado in the face has a recessed rare earth magnet. I had an idea to make an integral, but removable alignment fence. This is a steel angle faced with hardwood ... It slots into the dado, and is held firmly ... And then is used in the same manner as an alignment board ... I hope this can be used by others. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 9 points
    I finally finished our bed for the wife and I. It is king size and constructed of some very old heart pine that I salvaged from some dairy barn beams. I resawed the beams to get the wood sizes required and then ran everything through my planer etc. The wood is extremely hard as much as oak and machined beautifully with the great pine smell permeating my shop. I managed to hide most of the old nail and peg holes and then finished the wood with 3 coats shellac followed by hand waxing and buffing. That took a long time as there is a lot of surface area to cover. LOL This is my largest furniture project to date and I learned as I went along. I did not take any shortcuts and everything is put together with hand cut mortise and tenon joinery. I used splines to join the panel boards. I used Titebond PVA and the bed rails are fastened using old fashioned bed bolts through the ends of the tenons and posts. I did make some mistakes of course, but nothing major. I just took my time and slogged at it for about 4 weeks.
  17. 9 points
  18. 8 points
    I've been wanting to make an end grain cutting board for a while. So in typical fashion I choose a complicated one, and complicated it more by using 3/4 stock and an attempt to minimize waste. Still, the thing cost about $80 in materials...sheeshhh. It should last forever though, and looks really cool. I used this online app - http://www.cuttingboarddesigner.com/#/designer/68781c61-c7c5-fac7-8bd3-903a13708a44 to guide me. I didn't realize how dark the end grain of the maple would get - I was hoping for more contrast. Here are some pics, before and after oil. I just use mineral oil for cutting boards.
  19. 8 points
    So this is where I'm at now. Main case dry fitted. Drawers are from an old project (my daughter rejected them ). Next up is finish prep, glue-up and fitting the back. The large cubbies on the sides are for books.
  20. 8 points
    I got a good chunk of the interior done. I'm using some drawers from an old project, so I'm trying to fit the case to the drawers, rather than the other way around, so the fit likely won't be perfect, but I'm ok with that. I've discovered that the router and I simply don't get along. It shouldn't be hard, but I really struggled with the dados for the interior dividers. A project like this is a good one to practice on though as any mistakes can be easily hidden, and it will never leave the shop.
  21. 7 points
    Dave check out this kiln dried 4/4 tiger hard maple lumber. But this pile not for sale.
  22. 7 points
    Looks like an edge clamp, like the Bessey KT5, used to clamp edging strips with regular bar clamps.
  23. 7 points
    So here’s the end product for this project. Just in time for wifey’s birthday too (coincidence)
  24. 7 points
    You should have seen the lumber that came out of that log. All but a few boards, went to the Woodcraft store’s in Tn and Ga. The big dummy that cut that log didn’t keep one board. I promise he want make a mistake like that again.
  25. 7 points
    Complete and ready to go (this is much nicer than my bench)
  26. 7 points
    I'll let the pictures do the talking, these are panels for doors in a cabinet I'm making, one coat of osmo polyx;
  27. 7 points
    It's in the house! I'll get my wife's nice camera and get some proper shots of it tomorrow. The bottom drawer is out still because the finish is still drying. I got it all fitted yesterday, and it seems like it's all working swimmingly.
  28. 7 points
    Finally got some steady time to get this one wrapped up which is good too. I am upgrading my electrical panel this Thursday and i have to button up a bunch of wiring and get new grounds ready before the big day. The sawdust and glue mix worked surprisingly well. You can still see marks but it's far better than it was. After i got the frame made and the top sized, it was as simple as thinning out some walnut to make a slip fit top. I needed some dividers for the piece treys as well as the center wall thing. I had a small piece of redgum sitting on my scrap shelf and figured with all the chaos of wood on this one why not add 1 more species. It turns out it blends well between the walnut and the black dyed wood i used on the field. I just have the brass latches left to install after the finish cures. It's too bad the Mahogany veneer is so much darker than the piece i had. I hope that in time it evens out. If i get a chance i might toss it out side to sun tan this week. It's supposed to be in the 60s!!!!!!!!!
  29. 7 points
    What a great weekend with Darrell and his wife, Terry. The workshop could not have gone any better! One of the reasons I wanted to have Darrell do this seminar was because of his extensive use of CNC as a tool in his everyday workflow. Here's his Tercet table with custom CNC cut clamping cauls. He went into great detail about how much easier it is now for him to clamp up a piece with very odd angles by making these custom cauls to fit the angles, with detents in the cauls for precisely placing the clamp jaws in alignment. Everything lines up perfectly with very few to no gaps requiring adjustment. Great use of the technology! And this is how deep the sawdust was in his shop when he forgot to empty his collector. We had a few more people than the class is designed to hold, but we managed. It was a full house. My buddy Carl eyeing some of the ebony plugs Darrell is cutting. He won't notice them missing, right? Meanwhile, back in Denver is my brother (who was supposed to attend the Darrell Peart seminar!) waiting patiently for his signed copy by some guy hawking his book. But that's okay. I got my own signed copy! I'll get some of the video processed and posted a little later. Darrell is a great instructor. If you ever have the opportunity to take one of his classes or attend a workshop, do it. Very personable, completely unpretentious and happy to answer any questions you have.
  30. 7 points
    So I've been searching for some decent squares that don't break the bank but are also a bit nicer than your average machinist square. I ended up finding a brand Kinex on amazon that looked interesting. The biggest complaint i have for machinist squares is the blade is so thin that sometimes reference things with rounded edges doesn't work like your track saw track. I found 2 in a larger size that would fit the bill. I wanted something stainless steel so i wouldn't have to worry about it rusting with the rust throwing off the accuracy. I couldn't find them so i figured I'd just wax them up good and keep them on the schedule with all my other rusting tools. Points to anyone that gets the Brandon Sanderson reference. The one on the top is a similar design to the woodpeckers square that they love to charge way to much for IMO. It's slightly smaller than is available from wood peckers so they still have a leg up there but I'm always told it's not the size of the tool but how you use it.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079R8BVYW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The bottom one is more of a regular machinist square except the blade is much thicker. The image below shows the difference the blade is 3mm or a hair over 1/8" compared to the 1/16" that my other square are. This is helpful when i need to reference the square with material that has a corner knoced off or with the track saw track. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073YMTLCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm just throwing this up for any one that is unhappy with Woodpeckers prices and wants a good square for a fair price. If you disagree with me and thing that WP is worth it i won't argue i think they do make an awesome product but i drop things and one knock of aluminum against concrete in the wrong spot is an expensive mistake. I am in no way affiliated with amazon or Kinex in any way shape or form. I don't get any money if you click on those links and it's probably best for your wallet if you don't If you zoomed into read this small text I'm sorry there is nothing of value down here i just wanted to troll. Any and all claims that I'm lying will be met with a stern look of disapproval. I'm not even sure if that is the proper spelling for lying, I'm talking about the word that is defined as speaking an untruth despite knowing better. Not lying as in Hey what's that Lying over there. That's not a Lion that's a giraffe.
  31. 7 points
    I managed to the all the joinery for the main case finished today. The mitered dovetails turned out quite well. One corner has a bit of a gap, but it's nothing a bit of glue and sawdust won't fix. All the rest are nice and tight. I'm now playing with the layout of the internals. I don't every see myself getting any huge planes, so I don't need that much vertical space. I want to put some books in there, and I've already got some drawers from a previous project that didn't get used. I'm not sure what the final layout will be, but I've got a few days to think about it now.
  32. 6 points
    Slowly sanding and finishing my way through this. Other than that, all I have left is to route grooves for the t-tracks and slap on some pulls. I got one completed (only went with 2 coats of finish, I'm just too impatient to do more.) This gap displeases me. It wasn't nearly this bad before finish. The two drawers rub. So I will have to address that issue before I'm truly done.
  33. 6 points
    Built a pull out shelf that I was planning to put my track saw on to get rid of the insanely too big Makita systainer. Of course, it doesn't fit in that space. But with the spindle sander down below I couldn't have done any better. I'll have to figure out what tools to put there. I know at some point I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get rid of Festool systainers, I just don't have room for them it seems. Put trim on the tops. Went pretty well. First time doing mitered trim. Also first time using the new SCMS. I made the trim about 1/4" taller wider than it needed to be in case there were undulations or bowing in my tops because the plywood sucked. There definitely was on the long top. But on the two smaller ones it just left me with tons of extra material. First I tried to use a flush cut bit. It didn't work that well for me. I think my bit is dulling. This walnut is insanely hard too and tears out easily. It's the most difficult walnut I've ever used. So I switched to the painful way. Once those were done I sanded them and put a first coat of finish on. Also put first coat on 4 drawers that were sanded previously. Then opened the garage door and water dripped right on them because it's hurricane season in IL somehow. Whatever. First coat so they'll be sanded.
  34. 6 points
    My nephew and I went to the sellers today, disconected the power and took everything off the saw but the center cast iron top. Tomorrow is moving day and we'll probably take the center off then. On the way home we stopped to rent the Power Mate. We wanted an opportunity to try it out and I had an old drill press I wanted out of the basement to facilitate selling. The aluminum model Power Mate with 650 lbs capacity is itself a hefty machine. You can pick it up, but you're not going to want to. We loaded it into the primadona pickup by having it climb in as in the videos. I'm sorry I don't have any photos of the stair climb--we were a little busy. The drill press was an old Craftsman bench model on a wood pedestal and mobile base. We moved the whole thing, including the mobile base as one. I brought the tongue under the base at the motor end and strapped the drill to the dolly. It was quite unwieldy. Not as heavy as the saw, but the center of gravity was very far forward. Negotiating the 6 stairs to my cinder block landing was a bit of a challenge. In part that was my inexperience with the machine, but it takes a lot of effort and attention to keep the load balanced. You have to keep ahead of the load. But it worked and we got the drill to the garage (wanna buy it?). Tomorrow we're planning to tackle the saw.
  35. 6 points
    This post is how my shop sat for about a year. I finally got sick of the lumber storage. I touched on it a bit in another thread that i bout some racks and was working on changing my storage around. It's been a week of moving lumber around in my shop and also moving some out to the shed. I have a good bit in my shed and a good bit still in my shop. As the stock in the shop decreases i'll use some of these shelves for other storage and keep most of my lumber in the shed. So the lee valley lumber rack is AWESOME!!!! It's super expensive but in my opinion after owning it it's totally worth it and then some. If you can get a good solid attachment to studs ect the system will hold more weight than what ever you attach it to. The brackets move around easier than most systems and the don't wobble and take up a ton of space like the other high capacity systems. I can do a pull up on the 18" brackets and there is no shifting or creaking what so ever. I'm not saying this hypothetically i did a couple to prove it. The pic below is where my 2x4 lumber rack used to sit. It was 8' long 6' tall and stuck out from the wall about 28". What i replaced it with leaves enough room for me to get a 2nd bandsaw and a small lathe or a large lathe if I so choose. The long storage is high enough that i can walk under it. Which is to say most/all of you would hit your head i'm 5'6". I also had a weird space by my dust collector that didn't have a lot of utility. It was just long enough that i could fit 8' lumber there and have space to change the bin. This also meant that i needed a place for the 10' and 12' boards that i have. There just so happens to be a convenient space above my jointer for such lumber. I was able to nestle the boards between the 2 drops on my collection system. The 12 foot boards tuck between the drops and the wall. The rack system that i used for these 2 is the standard box store stuff. It's capable but it's not even in the same league as the lee valley system. Now that the lumber is against the wall better i needed to address my clamp storage finally. I figured it was time to do some against the wall storage for the clamps. After going through all my lumber and finding the odd species and random pieces i had, i grabbed some hickory, sycamore, and Russian olive and made some clamp racks. I have all of my parallel clamps in one spot now which is nice. Before the 4' long clamps had to be scattered around the shop in order to be out of the way. The 4' clamps sit about 1/4" off the floor which was a bit tighter than i wanted to cut it. Here is a shot of the construction. It's very simple just some slots cut in a board. After seeing the live edge deadman on @bleedinblue deadman i learned that the shop is a great place for the live edge. This brings some natural contour to a very concrete shop so i appreciate the idea! Here is a view of the russian olive top. The shelf is to store small clamp related items like the extenders that i made. I left a few spaces for expansion but i haven't been emptying my clamp rack lately I've purchased a few clamps here and there and can safely say that i probably have enough. I noticed i didn't have a picture of my 3rd rack that is also all 8' and 6' boards. I guess i didn't want to show off my collection of box store 2x4's .... errr ebony, bocote, and rosewood.
  36. 6 points
    Finally done! Most materials are out of the shop and in my new storage shed. My scrap pile is gone. All the good scraps now reside in the rack along with the same species The worthless scraps will smoke meat for 2 of my hunting friends. Before if I needed a scrap and it was not on top of the pile I'd cut into a new board. All leftovers are on the stack of same species. I found 6 boards of poplar I did not know I had. I have bought a lot of poplar over time not knowing I had some. And about a year ago I ran into an opportunity that normally I hear about and never have a chance at. 200' of exceptional 1" cherry. Very little sap and boards up to 18" wide. All at a good price. I had no room for it but the owner of a cabinet supply is a good friend and he allowed me some storage until last night. Now the cherry is at its next space. Mostly when I buy wood it is for a specific project. So it makes me think when will I use the cherry, who will commission me, and what will the project(s) be? I might have the answer tomorrow or 5 years from now or never. But I like the questions and occasionally ponder the thought. This is the side door which allows me access for non lumber storage. I intend to plumb the rain barrel. The water will be used to irrigate my bananas. They are water pigs. A new cedar bench for the rain barrel. Inside the side door.
  37. 6 points
    Coop here’s a couple pics of my butternut table I had a woodworker make.
  38. 6 points
    They wanted two, custom panel entry doors with matching storm doors for their country home. He had taken photos of a very old Dutch (2-part) door that had an interesting panel layout. We looked at it together and amended the panel sizes a bit for a single piece door and I began planning. Their house could see three feet of snow in winter and reach the high 90s in summer, so I needed a species of wood that was strong, would remain stable through the seasons and looked great. I chose an African mahogany known as Sepele. Below you can see the two inch thick, rough sawn planks from the mill and what they looked like after I planed the boards and exposed the faces. We had to machine all the parts perfectly square and to the exact sizes so when assembled, all the joints would meet perfectly flush and the doors would be dead flat (‘on plane’). Here we are doing a dry fit (without glue) to see if it will come together as planned. We ended up creating three hundred and thirty-six pieces of this square molding to hold all the panels in place. The door’s top half was fitted with tempered glass and the bottom, with wood panels. Both storm doors and the main doors were mounted with very good hardware. They wanted brass box door latches and completely hidden scissor hinges that were made in Germany. All of these had to be deeply mortised into all the door’s edges. We had to do the same for the corresponding places on the jambs (door surrounds). We constructed them of thick Sepele and made saddles (the floor pieces), as well. This is referred to as ‘pre-hung’ doors. Although the painter’s tape is on the glass (they are applying the finish themselves) AND it was snowing outside, I managed to get this photo from the interior. In a few years the patina will look even better. I know they are very happy. russell hudson / www.hudsoncabinetmaking.com
  39. 6 points
    I bought fancy lag bolts from Le Depot a Domicile.
  40. 6 points
    I come down on the side of using 6/4 and more pieces. Hint. when you laminate the pieces, try to have all the peices with the grain in the same direction, so that if you ever use a plane on it, you 1won't get tearout.
  41. 6 points
    Thanks all! My final take is it was well worth the effort. The best part for me was the group session on Sunday afternoon where we walked around with Scott Grove https://imaginegrove.com/about/ as he critiqued our pieces. There were about 20 people signed up to walk along and listen/question him as he critiqued our pieces it was very insightful for me. I didn't win any of the categories but received good marks and feedback from the judges.
  42. 6 points
    I went down Gary’s today and picked up a few bowls. I also, took Gary a few chunk’s of wood. Here’s a few pics of the bowl’s he turned.
  43. 6 points
    As the gap is where two ends come together, is it best to use end grain flour?
  44. 6 points
    I made this jig up to hold picture frames for finishing. really simple, a couple of slides with finish nails pounded in them, cut off the head end and sharpen them with a dremmel tool, slides are secured with a carriage bolt and wing nut. tighten one end down, squeeze the nails into the frame with hand pressure, squeeze the other end into the frame and tighten the wing nut. holds good for finishing and can be held with one hand to finish all parts then hung up somewhere out of the area to dry. made several of different lengths and can put 4 slides on one to do two frames at once. made them way back when wood frames were popular, they still are around my house anyway, picture frame is butternut if anyone was wondering.
  45. 6 points
    Everything here is my own design and construction aside from the lamp and the guitar. The chair was built with my dad circa 2009 when I was learning how to make furniture. The footstool was made on the porch of my apartment in 2012 when my wife and I first got married. The side table was made in 2017 when my son was born.I'm focusing on the nicks, dings, and imperfections in this post. Here's one. I noticed after the finish was far enough underway that sanding it back would've led to inconsistent color or completely restarting the finish. I figure that with a toddler, this is the first of many dings, haha.The right door went on very well - consistent 1/16" reveal all the way around.The left door has a bit more of a problem with the reveal - the right edge of it is a bit too wide, probably ⅛ instead of 1/16. The top is also tighter than it should be, which in turn emphasizes the oversize gap on the right.When I was gluing the case up, something weird happened that I still can't figure out, and when I clamped it there was a split here - it's the dark vertical streak about ¼ of the way in from the front. I filled it in with glue & sawdust, and it is hidden with the grain well enough, but it wasn't a perfect project. The miter joint right there ended up being a tad gappy, too. I guess there must have been a chip or chunk of something in the joint that caused it to not want to close evenly, leading to a split when put under heavy clamp pressure. Yeah, I over clamp. Guilty as charged.The only visible sapwood. There's a little more on the bottom of the cabinet. Also, I'm trying to figure out how to manage my mess of wires in this cabinet. It seems like a shame to waste so much space, but I'm also only just figuring out what I want where in this thing. Our previous "TV stand" was actually a repurposed coffee table, so having somewhere to put things is a new experience, hahaha.The Lee Valley offset knife hinges I used for the project were pricey, but overall very good quality. They ended up sitting just barely proud of the surface after trimming the doors to fit as well as I could. Also, there's a nick out of the corner of this door because I got reckless when trimming early on. I hid it, but it's still there! Every ding tells a story, I guess. Most are just stories of my own stupidity, but still. lol.I used Brusso ball catches to hold the doors closed, but didn't anticipate this: The ball catch has a travel of almost ⅛", and my reveal is about half that. This means that over time, the ball catch is going to put a little crescent-shaped ding into the wood where it compresses each time. Not a major concern, but something I overlooked. It was my first time using ball catches, so I guess that is something to remember for next time.Top drawer! Video game goodies. No real problems with this drawer.Bottom drawer! DVDs. So nice to finally have somewhere to stash them. I purposefully designed the drawer to be deep enough to hold DVD cases.The right cabinet currently holds one of those felt storage cubes, also full of DVDs. Funny how those accumulate. I can't remember the last time I bought a DVD, but somehow there are so many of them.There has been some discussion about the potential for the doors warping since they are solid wood. They are also nearly an inch thick, more like a tabletop than a door. I think they should be okay, but if they aren't I can fix them as needed. Time will tell. This photo also shows yet another goof-up, a hole I had to drill to remove the ball catch when I accidentally put it too deep. Those ball catches are tricky.Raking angle shot of the top surface finish. I am pretty happy with it! This image has been reduced by 18.5%. Click to view full size. The back. It's got my TV antenna taped to it (yes, I said TV antenna, we use Netflix, YouTube, and over-the-air local channels), and one hole for cables to go into the far cabinet. Not pretty, not ugly, just "mreh." It's a cabinet back, whatchagonnado.
  46. 6 points
    Good Morning! Since you were all so generous with your advice and time, I wanted to share the outcome of my crisis with all of you kind folks. What eventually worked to remove the gray crusted blotches on my ash mantle was this process...CitriStrip applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, After Wash applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, Mineral Spirits (with days of drying time) and then Minwax Wipe On Poly (3 coats). It is beautiful in the end! Thank you for helping me problem solve my dilemma. I greatly appreciate your efforts!
  47. 6 points
    I will just add this little rid bit. All my chisels are metric. the reason I went with metric chisels is that the closest imperial size is just a bit bigger. Just a small sample 6 mm is just a hair smaller then 1/4 inch, 12 mm is hair smaller then 1/2 inch, 18 mm is a hair smaller then 3/4 inch. So If I use my 6mm chisel in a 1/4 slot or mortise or dado to do some cleanup or sizing I am not marring or inadvertently making the area I am working on bigger just by working my chisel in to that area that need clean up. Just a little something to think about next time you add to you chisel collection.
  48. 6 points
    Ive been playing with some rotten wood these past couple of days. The little dark colored bowl is from an old tree root that was dug up when my new septic field was put in. I sanded it to 150 and put Osmo on it to give it a softer feel, still working on building the finish. The other is a piece of badly bug eaten spalted cherry. It has a hole through one side but the wild figure and colors make it worth finishing out. This is a first coat of poly which will be sanded back after it cures fully and another coat applied to get an even gloss.
  49. 6 points
    I've been sucking information from this group for years and decided it's probably time to try and contribute a bit, so this is more of an info thread than a real question. Recently there was a thread asking about using oil/wax finish as a maintenance coat over existing oil/wax. I have just finished a Maloof inspired low back chair and couldn't get my regular "Maloof" oil/poly and oil/wax blend from Rockler. It seems Rockler, at least for now, no longer carries the product. As a standby, I used Tried and True oil/varnish and oil/wax (beeswax) finish. Three coats of each per the instructions. The bottom line is that it wasn't the finish I had hoped for. It had a lower sheen and seemed to grab you when you sat in the chair... I assumed that was due to the softer beeswax. My next project was a couple of maple bar stools, and I was again faced with a finish issue. I had heard Marc drop the names Rubio monocoat and OSMO so I started a bit of research. I wasn't looking to add color and it appeared that was a major selling point for Rubio monocoat. OSMO looked to be possible solution, I ordered a can to try. During the research I dropped a "contact us" email to the OSMO guys and a day later received a phone call for the return conversation... suffice it to say I was impressed with the service. We not only discussed application on raw wood but also the impact of renewal coats over exiting oil/wax finishes. Don't be mislead by the name OSMO Polyx ... there is no polyurethane in the finish, it's strictly plant oils (yep...you read that right) and hardwax with a small amount of odorless mineral spirits. There are virtually no odors during use. I applied the finish with a 2x2inch white Scotch-Brite pad. About an 8 hour dry. Today I finished the final coats on both the bar stools AND re-coating the low back chair. I was amazed how much more the OSMO popped the grain and improved the sheen on the already finished walnut... unbelievably impressed. The difference was so profound that even the bride saw a huge improvement. As for the maple bar stools... it popped the figure and provided a flawless finish. Easy to apply and seems almost fool proof. A quick note here, OSMO poly hardwax oil was developed by the flooring industry, as a result the instructions that come with the product are for applying it to a floor.. the following is a link for furniture application http://www.raincoastalternatives.com/files/3613/1810/6146/3054Furniturev2.1_HOW_TO.pdf I've taken the liberty of attaching a couple project photos. I hope if someone is trying to search OSMO as an option.. they might find this thread. It's my new go-to for any oil/wax applications.
  50. 6 points
    I think a lot of people put too much stock in how good a surface a planer leaves, but that surface isn't ready for finish anyway. It still needs sanding/scraping/planing.