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  1. I just finished these two nightstands this past weekend. They are made of Sapele and finished with one coat of blond shellac and then I sprayed 3 light coats of General Finishes High Performance. I will be making the bed to go with them but won't get that started until June sometime.
    20 points
  2. It doesn't rain often around here but when it does odd things sprout up.
    18 points
  3. I have been meaning to post pictures of this project for a while. I actually finished this in Feb. I was going to do a journal, but as I started to work it up I realized there wasn't much different in my process this time as compared to the last time that I journaled. Xenia is the Ancient Greek custom and practice of offering hospitality without hesitation, particularly to strangers. So here are some pictures: The base piece is made from Honduran mahogany and the basin is maple. The finish is Osmo Polyx-Oil satin.
    17 points
  4. As many of you know my father passed away a week ago Monday and as we work through the process one of the things that came up was the need for an URN for his ashes. The family decided to go with a wooden box type urn. As the funeral home showed us what was available they either looked really cheap or the prices climbed to the $1K range. Knowing my father (who was quite cheap LOL) I offered to make the the box and thought I would take you all along for the ride. First up was the design we wanted something clean and fairly simple yet nice. I decided to go with what I had in the shop so originally was thinking a walnut box with a birdseye maple lid but after refining the design switched to curly maple, more on that later. First up was to pull some some stock After finding the wood I wanted to use I did some resawing. I will do a four side match on the box and also prepped the wood for the veneer After resting for a few days I brought the shop made veneer down to about 1/16" using a sled at the drum sander Next up I laid out the lid design. I decided it was time to put to use the Scott Grove veneer classes I have been taking. After getting the design laid out I decided the curly maple would look better then the birdseye. My feeling was the curly would look like rays behind the cross or at least that's what I hoped. So I set out cutting, planing and fitting each piece Next up I prepped the bottom for glue up. Two layers of resawn walnut and an 1/8" MDF filler After prep they went into the vacuum bag For those interested I use a qualityvak.com system Next up I came up with the cross size Then set about creating a fence syetem that wouldn't allow me to mess this up LOL Fine tuned with hand tools I glued the long piece in first then rinse and repeat for the cross piece After a little clean up with a hand plane it was ready for finish Next up I need to make the box sides.
    17 points
  5. This was a build for my dog agility instructor. Somehow over the years, The chess table that had been in her family got lost or stolen. She asked if I could make one for her and she wnated her parents initials in the top of the table. In the following pics t he chess squares are 1/42" carelian birch and walnut on Baltic birch plywood The frame is solid walnut. The playing surface is 16 x 16" and the table is 26" square overall. Frame is glued to the border with the addition of 3 dominoes along each side. I changed the domino depth setting just a bit beween drilling the boards and drilling the frame so that the framewould be ever so slightly proud of the board. So I could sand the frame downe to meet the thin veneer. I wanted to do as little sanding on the veneer as possible. The frames's miter joinery is a little differnet. A couple of typical dominoes along each miter was my first thought unitl I realized that the dominoes sticking out would not allow installation of the 4th side of the frame. After a discussion with @RichardA ( thank you Rick ) I decided to cut a long, shallow mortise using the domoino machine into each border piece and use 2 dominoes end to end and sideways in the mortise. This allowed enough clearance to insert the 4th side of the frame whil keeping the accuracy of domino alignment. The side apron stringing is 1/32" wide and about 1/16" deep basswood. legs and apron are finished with 2 coats of dewaxed shellac (rag applied) and 3 coats of Satin ARS - rag applied. The tophas 2 coasts of shellac and several coats of GF water based poly. I used a brush for the poly and got brush marks. I snade them out and tried a sponge applicator got spnge applicator marks. Resanded. Many thanks to @Pkinneb who graciously agreed to spray the top with my remaining poly. Turned out great. About the initials. A friend of mine that I met at a veneering class about 3 years ago has become very good and Marquetry. He offered to cut the walnut initials into little carelian birch rectangles and did a great job. I cut the rectangles to size and routed and glued them into the top. I have a very happy client and again thanks to those who helped.
    17 points
  6. Finally finished up the Shaker End Table from the Guild. Learned a ton, made my share of mistakes but overall I’m pleased with how it came out. My first time using cherry. Was just asked by SWMBO when her coffee table and TV stand will be done.
    16 points
  7. I have to share this news with you folks. In fact I think you get some of the credit for encouraging me. One of my pieces was chosen by the American Association of Woodturners for inclusion in the AAW's 2021 Member Exhibition, Finding the Center. I'm dumbfounded. I just had no expectation of being selected; I almost didn't enter. The piece they selected was "Offering", wip down to the bottom of the first page this journal to see some pictures: The exhibit is at the AAW gallery in Minneapolis and runs from Sept 5 to Dec 30, so I've got a while to wait. But if next fall you find yourself in the vicinity, with absolutely nothing else to do, and it's raining, heavily, and unseasonably cold, you can pop in their gallery for a look at the exhibition.
    15 points
  8. I should have done a journal on this one but I get involved and forget. Anyway, this is my latest project. The detail work to at least as much time as the desk itself. I know that a couple of us have made shameless plugs for Marc Adadsm school of Woodworking and this deak is another. The design of the desk, joinery techniques, stringing and oval inlay, strining and finishing (sort of) were all the result of the school. The carving is a result of Mary May's online school. I think is all starting to come together. Desk is walnut 9Oh, my God - the price of walnut up here). Desk is 24" x 48" x 30" high. Joinery includes dovetail at each end of the front top rail to the legs, doulbe mortise and tenons for the face frame joints and dominoes for the side and back rails to the legs and between the pieces that make up the top. I use power tools to hog out the dovetails and mortises and pair to the scrib elines with chisels. The sides and back are frame and panel use 1/4" walnut veneer plywood (actually turned out to be just over 3/16) Tray for keyboard in place of center drawer. Not really a federal style feature but that's what was required. Legs were grroved to look like columns with base and cap of 1/4" half rounds in 1/8" grooves. Bottoms of 1 5/8" square legs are tapered 4 sides to 3/4" square. Cockbeading on drawers was new for me. top and bottm cock bead on each drawer cover the entire top ( or bottom) face edge while the side cock beading is much narrower so as not to cover up the dovetails. Carvings are a simple bracket design. Thank you Mary May. Top and vertical edges are mortised and tenoned to the frame to add stiffness. String and oval and bell flowers are mad of holly. The oval is 12 pieces of holly veneer cut out of a rectangle shape, sand shaded and then re-assembled and glued to 1/8" bacltic birch. Then I cut the final oval shape and applied the Holly border. Next I used double stick tape to hole it in place while I scribed around the oval. Finally routed it out and glued it in place String in the top for decoration. Stringin is 1/32" wide. I used a dremel tool with edge guide or circle cutting jig to make 1/32" wide x 1/16" deep grooves. Finish is Satin ARS over 2 coats of shellac. The body of the desk has 2 coats rag applied and the top has 5 coats applied with sponge brush and a lot of sanding in between coats to get the surface grain filled enough to be a decent writing surface That's about it. Thanks for reading.
    15 points
  9. Our granddaughter’s other grandfather has a ranch in south Texas and loves to be outdoors. Her dad taught her to shoot at an early age and turned her loose in a blind at age 14 and scored this doe. This year, she was taken off of the doe, cull buck only list and got this 10 pt. fellow. She’s darn good at the pistol range too when we can find ammo.
    15 points
  10. It seems strange that I've only been on this site for just six plus years. But it never lets me down, you old guys and even the new guys make this place enjoyable, and instructive. I've learned and grown in my woodworking thanks to all of you, and since today is Christmas eve, I just want to thank you all for your input, and wish each and everyone of you a very Happy holiday, and a Merry Christmas. You're a good bunch!
    15 points
  11. As some of you may recall ( or not), I Started taking on line carving classes from Mary May last spring and took a carving class at Marc Adams school from Alex Grabavotskiy this fall. So enough with just carving practice lessons in basswood. Here are some of my first carved piece. Sides have the background lowered leaving the carving. The rossetes on the doors are carved appliques carved separately. Cheap Woodcraft African Mahogany. Nice wood for carving.
    15 points
  12. This week I decided it was time to make a couple upgrades to my existing tool. First I replaced my 1950's Craftsman jointer with a new Grizzly 6" jointer. Then I I upgraded my crappy HF 8" drill press with a new 12" Grizzly drill press. I decided to mount it to my large Husky too box. To do this I had to move my spindle sander to my small Husky tool box. This is where I had my old drill press mounted. I originally put the new one on it but I decided it felt to unstable.
    14 points
  13. Alison's son asked if I would make a 32" lazy Susan for him to give to his aunt for her birthday. I'm in the high, dry desert of northern New Mexico and they live in hot, humid, Houston, so wood movement was a big concern. He sent me a link to a YT video of a maker making one out of construction lumber. I couldn't see doing that. I figured veneering would make more sense and remain much more stable. I resawed some walnut for the veneer. I remembered that Craig Thibodeau has a chapter in his book on veneering where he did a large starburst pattern. What do you know, his example was 32" in diameter. Saved me from doing the math. I made the template from ½" MDF to exact size. After rough cutting the shapes at the bandsaw, I sandwiched the veneers into a stack with the template on top and used the edge sander to sneak up on the line. They came out great and took no time at all. I laid them up on 1" (2 layers of ½") MDF with poplar veneer as a backer. I used Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue. Worked really well. I used a router on a shop made circle jig to cut it out. Then made a template from ½" Baltic birch, tweaking it by clamping a spare roll of drum sander paper to the circumference of the veneered panel. Dialed it in spot on. I used the Domino to align the top surfaces and banded it in 1 ¼" walnut. I used the circle jig again to cut the ⅛" inlay channel and sized some cherry down to a snug fit. Note - Sometimes planing the banding can be tricky if there's any wavy grain. It's impossible to see because of the thin piece. I dampen it slightly and it planes like butter. I installed the 24" diameter turntable hardware after putting a coat of Osmo on the bottom, then hit the top. I still have a couple of coats to go before it's ready to ship. Evan is happy with it.
    14 points
  14. It's funny . . . . . . these machines don't seem nearly as big as they did in the old shop.
    13 points
  15. Final inspection complete. The next phase begins: 2100
    13 points
  16. I just completed a kitchen renovation. It took 51 days and mostly with out surprises but there were a couple of things that added to the adventure. One was some water damage around the sink and dishwasher but I was expecting this as we had some dishwasher problems about three years ago and this required some subfloor replacement. The other was when the counter tops were installed I had to move the plumbing around under the sink to line up with the new drain locations and the way the new garbage disposal installed. This was no big deal, I just don't like plumbing. Just because I am at the age where I just don't want to work on my hands and knees any more I hired a neighbor thats a floor installer to do the floor. This served two purposes, I didn't want to do it and he hasn't had much work during the pandemic. The guy did top notch work, even the edges against the wall that were going to be covered by base board were straight as an arrow. The other thing that we farmed out was the counter tops, just not an amateur type project for the product that we selected. Everything else we did ourselves. We went with painted cabinets, because the cabinets were still in good shape from when I built then 23 years ago. But the did need prettying up and I didn't want to do a bunch of stripping scraping and sanding. I did make all new doors and drawer fronts, I went with Shaker Style with Blum hinges. We have a peninsula and when I built them I wasn't smart enough at the time to have access on both sides so this time around I opened up the back side to get better use of the space and made and installed sliding doors, hinged doors wouldn't work because of they're location. These first four pictures, with me standing in the same location to take them are before and after. BEFORE looking at the left side. AFTER BEFORE looking at the right side. AFTER And a couple of pictures of the new opening on the peninsula.
    13 points
  17. For the past 25 years, we have lived with these Ikea bench stools in our kitchen ... We do not eat much at the bench, but they get used. More recently Lynndy suggested that we replace them, and I thought that this would be a good excuse to build something inspired by Wharton Escherick, whose stools are just so organic and profound in their simplicity. The design was also influenced by a point made by Lynndy that a fixed-height footrest does not fit everyone. I thought about this and it occurred to me that the stretchers on the Escherick stools could form the basis of a slightly different design - make the seat three-sided, and one could choose the stretcher height to suit. The last requirement was that the wood must be Hard Maple, to match the kitchen I built a few years ago. I would have preferred a contrasting top, say in Walnut, but She Who Must Be Obeyed vetoed this. So ... I did manage to get contrasting wedges for the tenons passed her The stretchers .... One last one ... I'll am happy to post build photos if there is interest. Regards from Perth Derek
    13 points
  18. My 7 year old granddaughter was over today. She brought a stool kit that needed to be assembled for her day camp and as a requirement for her Cub Scout Wolf badge. So we dug into it. The supplied stretcher was too thick by about 30 thou, (yes, I use calipers for this), so I showed her how to use my #4 smoother to thin it down. She did pretty well controlling it. One of the top planks was missing, so Grandpa ripped up a new one. Myhrie glued and nailed everything together. It came out pretty nice. She wanted to paint it purple, but I didn't have that color in stock. It was a fun hour.
    12 points
  19. Yep, for the second time and this time I didn’t enjoy it nearly as much as the first time. I painted a piece of furniture that I built! My wife asked me to build her an armoire to fit in our newly remodeled and enlarged bedroom. I got goosebumps, thinking walnut or cherry. Then she pulls up a Pinterest or something equally as disgusting photo of one that had been painted and glazed. Almost 50 years of being happily married flashed across my mind and never has she asked for something that distasteful. But as faithful as she has been, I knew if I didn’t, another guy would. I built it from poplar and stain grade birch ply with at least a solid maple, unpainted drawer box! Doors and drawer front are inset with self closing European Blum hinges on the doors and soft closing under-mount glides for the drawers. Both of which are also a first and not the last. Due to overhead lighting, the shelf edges look lighter than the interior. At least it’s finally finished and out of my shop.
    12 points
  20. The look with finish and hardware. And the client dropped by. They both had big smiles and were very pleased. I work for a 2 part paycheck. The money and pleasing the client. Naturally I like money but the clients with a big grin and many not begged for accolades is a big part of the paycheck. Pleasing clients motivates me too.
    12 points
  21. I had a request from a friend to build a chess board for his wife's birthday. I figured it would be a fun project so I agreed. My plan was to make the board out of veneer initially but couldn't wrap my mind around how to ensure the veneer was cut perfectly. So instead i cut 1/8" thick shop veneer and just used the table saw. I started by sawing enough veneer to make roughly 2 boards as I'd need to do a balanced panel. Once i had the veneer cut and sanded on the drum sander I ripped out 2.25" wide strips. I figured it'd be easiest to make this like a cutting board and glue the pieces together into a board then cross cut strips. I used plywood cauls to keep everything nice and flat. Then alternating the cross cut strips it was easy to build out the checkerboard. The backside was more walnut and maple, I didn't go through the effort to make the hidden underside checkered but it still looks nice. To glue the checkerboard onto the Baltic birch core, i used blue tape that I stretched out. There is just enough elasticity in painters tape to hold a project like this together. On the left side of the core i glued down a scrap strip that I jointed and used to align the checkerboard. It helped me get everything strait and square. after glued I'd just trim this piece off. To glue my shop veneer down i used a layer of pink insulation 3 pieces of plywood and a lot of cauls and clamps. I just used my regular TB II wood glue. This got me some good squeeze out around the edges so I figured it got me enough pressure. I really should buy a vacuum bag kit. After the glue set I trimmed the board to size this revealed a nice sandwich with no visible voids. After the core was done I just made a frame and box to raise the board a bit. Finish was applied and project complete. I used miters to make the frame and box that acts as the stand. The corners of the box were reinforced with splines.
    12 points
  22. Last summer I helped my youngest granddaughter, nine at the time, make a coffee table. A couple of weeks ago my seventeen year old granddaughter ask if I could help her Make a jewelry box for her boy friends birthday. In both cases I was just the teacher and safety adviser. They both did the actual work. I thought I would post some pictures of different parts of the process. Making miter cuts for the box sides. Appling finish to the insides of the box before the glue up. The box all glued up. Thats her tray prototype in the back ground. Making a blade change. Setting the miter gauge stop block There is a tray that goes in the box and here she is cutting the miters on some of those parts. The tray glued up and the box itself. Gluing up... ... and assembling the dividers for the tray. Some final sanding before applying finish to the outsides of things. And finally spraying the top coat. I should add that the box, tray and lid handle are all Cherry and the lid itself is Birdseye Maple. A couple of finished project shots.
    12 points
  23. Joinery cut and dry fit.
    12 points
  24. Finally, after some danish oil on the trim ... it's ready. I've found before with cherry, that different boards can have a different colour when the finish is furst applied, hopefully as it ages, the colours will even out. Now I have to find out if it will fit through the door into the house ... maybe I should have measured that first!
    12 points
  25. My granddaughter turns 18 May 3rd, I know I got a project done early for a change amazing, I'm usually putting finish on the night before I have to give a gift. I'm happy with the table but, crazy about the finish (my daughter says she loves it) oh well to late to do anything about it. The table is knotty pine with a water based poly finish I made all the moldings on my new router table I'm loving that thing why I waited so long to build one..... I tried my hand at turning some drawer pulls I think they came out good for a first try the are made out of scrap 8/4 walnut.
    12 points
  26. Attached the bottom tonight and took some final beauty shots. Wish I would have had more time to play with some additional inlay strips recommended by Scott Grove but can't risk mucking this one up so I will probably make another similar one to try that on. That's a wrap! Thanks for following along
    12 points
  27. I took my son for his driving exam today, then whatched him drive home in my rearview mirror. His "new" car may be several years old, but you'd think it just rolled off the assembly line... Sorry, too dark for photos, this is a dealer pic.
    12 points
  28. I didn’t do a journal on here but I did snap a few pics along the way. The lumber was sourced from a walnut tree that I cut down about 6 years ago in Louisiana and brought back to Houston to be milled. I’ve made a couple of end tables from some of it but had several 8/4 slabs waiting on the right project. We had a new bathroom added to our house and decided I wanted to build the door going from our bedroom to the bathroom. Here are the slabs in rough form. And after I took a belt sander to them to see what kind of grain I had to work with. After milling to approximately 1 1/2” thick, I cut the rails and stiles to dimension and it was time for assembly. Joinery was with floating tenons and the mortises were cut with the Domino. As I had no experience at building a door, there was considerable pucker involved here. i mortised out for the glass on one side and made some trim pieces to hold the glass. As I only have a couple of slabs of this left, I didn’t want to mill them down for 3/4” lumber for the jamb and casing so I purchased 4/4 stock. With the help of an article written by @Tom Kingon another site he linked me to, I built the jamb and secured it in place. I want to also give credit to members on Kev’s site that held my hand and gave invaluable advice along the way. Finish is ARS with several coats of GF HP top coat. Thanks for looking.
    12 points
  29. Off and on over the past 8 months I have been in the process of handing down my model trains (last used when I was a kid) to my eight year old Grandson. I re scued the oldest of my 3 trains from my sisters closet. It was reapinted yellow in the 1940's and the paint was flaking off. So I decided to bead blast and repaint it with Erie decals in memory of my fathers time with the Erie railroad. Here's on pic of this 100 year old train and two pics of all three: 1950 Diesel, 1934 Steam engine and 1920-ish electric. I think that I am having more fun than my Grandson.
    12 points
  30. Finished up the trim and made the marquee Then took some much deserved time off to watch football Well after 2 years and 2 months this build is officially construction complete! Thanks for following along!! Next up either xmas gifts or furniture not sure which but it will be a week or two...
    12 points
  31. I saw this table in PW about six years ago and finally got around to building it. The original plans were for a bow front; however, I elected to make a straight front. It’s made of Sapele with Bubinga Burl veneer. The construction is typical mortise and tenon except the upper front rail which is dovetailed. The biggest challenge was to incorporate the curved veneers into the lower rail. I’ve learned to back my inlays with balsa which makes the inlays more rigid and easier to outline before inlaying.
    12 points
  32. Well this has been on my to do list for awhile, and I'm finally back to having time in the workshop. As a High School coach for baseball, spring can be a very hectic time, one reason I've been missing in action on this site the last few months. Well the season finally wrapped up and I'm ready for some alone time in the shop. I've been wanting to make a couch for a while, but my usually agreeable wife has not been sold on the idea. She usually is very happy with everything I build, but a wood framed couch with cushions is one area she has been resistant. Now I was overly impressed with @h3nry's upholstered couch, but I was not ready to leap that far in with this build. I was holding the line at a "Madmen" inspired piece of furniture, which I have truly come to admire and I truly love to build. I think the MCM stuff really shines when it comes to pieces you sit in and this was what I wanted to build, except for my lovely wife. Her main complaint was that the arms would be uncomfortable to recline against when one puts their legs up on the couch to read or watch TV. Now I had planned on a loveseat first, but this is where my wife usually sits to read or watch TV, hence her concern for comfort. In the same room we have a full size couch which she rarely uses. One night, she made a fatal mistake, she commented on how the couch was looking a little ragged. That was all the opening I needed, I said I'll handle it and when I'm done I'm predicting you'll ask for a matching loveseat. Now I've got to deliver....... I'm looking at a low slung couch, sculpted arms and sides. The back will be about 29" high without the cushions and it will be approx 71" long. The seat will recline at a 4/5 degree angle perpendicular to the floor and the back rest will sit at a 100 degree angle from the seat. there will be a middle support roughly shaped like the sides but with flat areas for joining the seat frames So off to the shop and my "digital design" program, graph paper. After a few attempts and a lot of erasing this is a side profile of the couch; I've played around with programs for design but I do really like this graph paper, once drawn up I cut out the pieces from the paper and make templates, easy in my mind, and a full sized visual. Of course it has it's limitations, that I understand. Once the templates are made I retrace on a new piece of paper and retain the full sized pic. The middle support was made by tracing the main pieces on another sheet and then altering areas that need altering. Here's the templates; Now I'm trying to keep most of my joints at 90 degrees to the floor, or base of the chair. this will make rectangular blanks ideal for creating tight joints. Here's the back leg and you can see that once the blank is sized I line up the joint areas to the side of the blank and make sure the bottom of the leg matches the base of the blank; And the front leg; And the blanks "put together" prior to cutting on the bandsaw. This just is a check to make sure things line uo; Free floating tenons (dominos) for joinery, 4 for the back leg to stretcher joint and two for the front leg stretcher joint. So the sides went together well, now to the middle support. Here I have two flat areas for the seat frame; So before gluing I use the L fence to cut these lines; And here I left a little extra at the front leg, I'll clean this up after gluing; And here is how the middle support relates to the side, you can see the flat areas clearly here that will support the seat fram; The back frame will be in two pieces and be glued to the inside edge of the sides and both sides of the middle support flush to the flat area. Here I completed the cut to line up the front leg, thanks to the L fence again. This pic also shows the middle leg against the side leg more clearly and I struck a line on the inside surface of the side to indicate where the bottom of the seat frame will rest; On to some shaping, here's a side without the arm yet sculpted; And here are all three pieces posing for a pic, sides and middle with lines struck on each to indicate frame locations; Next it will be back frame fabrication and front under the seat support fabrication. Then on to the arms and glue up of those pieces. For the seat frame I am hoping to do that in one panel, approx 68" long. That will be the most challenging part I think. Getting the long pieces to that frame true and square will be a challenge. The look from the front will be much nicer if it is in one piece or I'd do it in two. We'll see how that progresses. I hope you guys find this build interesting and I hope my wife finds it comfortable.
    11 points
  33. OK, it's been awhile, and my patience has finally paid off. My upholstery guy took the month of July off, and with the backlog of work he had to do I just got the couch back this week. So it's time to put a bow on this build. I like the fabric we picked, the cushions and couch look real clean and it sits very well. The MCM look is beginning to permeate my home, and this project will result in a few matching pieces for the room (love seat, coffee table, end tables). So here's the finally couch; Thanks for following along and I hope this was enjoyable to watch, I can say it was enjoyable to build.
    11 points
  34. It was a weekend for Labours of love. Saturday was hauling horses for my Daughter's last local show for the year. It was fun for me as it is normally my wife's department. The two of them are going on a big trip, taking in three shows in two weeks in September so I called dibs to take her this time. Sunday was bucking and splitting the last of this season's fire wood. We burn about 3 cords a winter and i like to have two years supply in the shed. This year a neighbour did some clearing and was kind enough to deck a bunch of alder and hemlock to give me at least two years supply. It's more than will fit in the shed so some will be stacked in the yard. Today was bee day, doing mite tests checking on stores and feeding them in preparation for winter. I really enjoy beekeeping but it is a lot like any other livestock or farming...lot's of work and investment in hopes of a good yeild but as many years of disappointment as years of plenty.
    11 points
  35. Well, this has been one long (time wise) and very heavy project All that is left to be done is drill the 3/4" dog holes and put some finish on it. The Bench it replaced...... This vise is awesome to use..... I even got the grain to match up on the sliding tail vise which simply means I lucked out
    11 points
  36. It was Saturday but due to a premature baby for the scheduled officiant I was honored to marry my youngest Oh and a little woodworking project too
    11 points
  37. This will be my journal as I build two Michael Fortune #1 chairs, one at the MASW and one on my own. I just returned late last night from my first 8 days at the school I will go back in late September for the second week. Two days building jigs for the chair, 5 day week 1 class, and 1 day bandsaw seminar with Michael. First a couple callouts. The MASW is an awesome place to learn. I have met some wonderful woodworkers and life long friends there and this week was no exception. Its a first rate operation and the instructors, facilities, food are all first class. Michael Fortune is not only a world renowned wood worker but one of the nicest funniest people I have had the pleasure of working with. Tonight's post will be quick becuase I am tired lol and I have many pics to sort through MASW is located just outside Indianapolis IN Here is a pic of the Michael Fortune #1 Chair these are done in solid Ebony with real silver and mother of pearl inlays. My chairs will be done in walnut and then ebonized. This pic is of a walnut chair like the ones we are making in class, its not assembled so that we can take it apart and see how everything fits together. As you can see the chair has curves everywhere of the 19 pieces that make up the chair only 3 do not have compound curves. Here are some of the many jigs and templates required to make the chair This pic shows the chair parts. From the top down: back chair legs, back slats (all 5 are on this drying form), and the arms. all of these parts were steam bent. Next you have the front legs, the front seat stretcher, crest rail, and bottom rail, and finally the seat frame. at this point all the joinery is cut in the non steamed parts and the shaping has begun.
    11 points
  38. We recently added on to our house which included a larger patio. Our gas meter for the last 40 years has never really bothered me until now, so I decided to make it less unsightly so I made a plant stand to cover it. The slats are Western red cedar and the rest is cypress. I treated it with Penofin. And though the pieces were rather small, I had to count them all. As in “A Day in the Life” by the Beatles, four thousand holes in Blackburn, Lancashire. There are 112 pieces and 224 Domino tenons.
    11 points
  39. 11 points
  40. I wanted to share this build, it really goes quickly and it's a design that I came up with while posting the story on the log, the slab and the table. The joinery is simple and by varying the size of the legs it can serve as an end table, a plant stand, or (fill in the blank). I like how there is a certain flow that develops from the underside of the table down into the legs. This area is refined and sculpted after the table is put together. @Mark J noted in my previous build post that he liked this small table better than the table the post was about. I tend to agree with him. I'll take you thru the thought process, the build and the final piece all in one post. This really is a long weekend project for me and the build I show here will end up being a plant stand instead of a table, so it is only 14" tall instead of 22" like the original table was. Here's the original "afterthought table" from the other post; So to start on this table I made a pattern for my leg. This leg is much shorter than the leg I developed for the table above. Also I used a "leftover" section of the hexagonal "post" I made for the original table. Since there are three legs, you need the six sided post. I also like the three leg design because the table always sits flat without rocking, even on an uneven floor; The leg can really be any shape, as long as you have a square inside corner. This corner is the key to this project; NOTE: You can accomplish the below operation also by starting with a wider board that has a straight edge and has a corresponding 90 degree cut. You can place the pattern in the corner and just cut out the leg from there. But I do it the way shown below to develop a grain that follows the curve of the leg more, resulting in a more attractive look and stronger grain orientation. So I milled up some stock that is pretty close to the thickness of one of the sides of the hexagon. Working out the three legs on this stock; You'll notice in the above pic and the below pic I draw an extended straight line that is part of the key right angle at the top of the leg; I cut along this line with the bandsaw first; Next I true up this line on the jointer; Now I can cut my 90 degree angle on the table saw; After that it's simply cutting out the rest of the leg with the bandsaw. But it is important to save these top cut off pieces for glue up, you will see me use these later; Here's how the leg structure fits together, the legs will be glued to the hexagonal post and it will be a nice long grain to relatively long grain glue joint; On to the top, a hunk of figured wood in rough form; Milled to thickness, around two inches wide and cut freehand on the bandsaw to 11" round. Showing each surface; I picked the surface in the second pic for the top side of the table. I then found the center point and tried on the legs; Some critical landmarks; an outline of the hexagonal post, the center point, and the end point of each leg; Center 1/2" dowel hole and a circle representing the circle the legs "make", basically a circle that falls on the line where the legs end; Beveling the underside starts at the bandsaw; Then to the bench where I use a Festool RAS to develop the rough bevel; Corresponding 1/2" hole in the hexagonal post (both holes drilled on drill press) and the 1/2" dowel ready to be glued; Gluing post to top; Some shaping of the post on the faces the legs will not be glued to; Shaping the legs, done with rasps; Gluing first leg. Need to glue one leg at a time and the cut off pieces from the legs are put to use now for the glue up. I also glue the top part of the leg to the underside of the table. That's a weak end grain to long grain glue joint, but it doesn't hurt to do it anyway; All three legs glued on, now to the final shaping; Goal is to blend the bevel into the legs; Like this, and then making the bevel uniform all the way around the top; A little cleanup at the post/leg joint, do this with a sharp chisel; And finished, sanded to 320 and Osmo finish; Hope this was helpful post. This shows a pretty straight forward construction without elaborate joints. It's a versatile table that can be made at different heights and for different uses. I'll be making more of these in the future, it also is a good use of figured chunks of wood and doesn't use much wood in the construction. I do think the 2" thick top is a little excessive with this table and I'm going to make the next one with a 6/4 top. The first table's top was about that thick, 6/4. I also think the longer legs with the taller table look more elegant than the shorter planter sized table. I'm wondering if I could use this design for a lamp build, a lamp table combo, how's that sound @JohnG?
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  41. for hand surgery. I had a locking thumb that was painful. The surgery was 2 hours ago and is already feeling better.I have flexibility already. But doc says no work until the stitches are out.
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  42. Glue up went well Next up was to cut for some keys Then glued them in and trimmed them at the BS Then I fit the bottom that will screw in for access. That'll work And finally glued in the attachment points for the bottom before starting the finishing process. Last step will be to rub out the finish and take a couple beauty shots later this week.
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  43. Today I remade the box while still not perfect I can at least live with this one. 1 2 3 4 - you can see this one is still off, I should have changed my bandsaw blade to a new one but it will work. Next up I cut a dado for the inset top panel and hand fit it using a shooting board and #5 plane With that done I moved on to a bevel detail on the top and the bottom of each side. I clamped a quick zero clearance piece down to the router table to insure a smooth cut. The panels are square with about an 1/8" 45 bevel top and bottom. The pick makes it look a bit off but that's just my poor photography skills not the panel. Then I did a dry fit prior to glue up Just need to wait a couple hours for the top to dry, after taping it off and spraying it with a couple coats of lacquer, then I will glue it up.
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  44. @wtnhighlander, Funny you should say that. It rained (well, what we call rain anyway) the few days before the building was going up. Despite repeated warnings about the electrical trench one guy pulled in and stopped right on it. It had been back-filled and compacted but, none of that means squat compared to Mother Nature's compacting process. His buddy was waving him forward like crazy but, for some reason he just sat there and sank up to the axle. This meant the other trucks/trailers that arrived had to stop behind him. Parts had to be carried to the slab when there was roadway leading right beside it. The poor guy got grief all day long from his guys. They work fast. Here's 9am: And here's 5pm: If they would have had 3 more hours of daylight I would have been inspected today.
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  45. I took these 3 picture in 2018 on our trip Ireland. Dunluce Castle, Northern Ireland, UK Kylemore Abbey, Co. Galway, Ireland Ha'penny Bridge, Dublin Ireland Believe it or not, these 3 are all taken on a Motorola G5 cell phone. I was contacted by the Ireland tourism people asking permission to use these photos in some brochures they were making after I posted them on a Irish Travel forum.
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  46. Hello, everyone. I'd like to introduce myself. I'm an amateur furniture maker/designer. I live in Oceanside, CA, about 35 miles north of San Diego. I haven't been able to do much in the last year due to Covid-19 isolation issues (age and underlying medical issues), so I haven't had any opportunity to buy supplies. But I've just received my 2nd vaccination, so I hope life will be returning to some normalcy. I've included some images of my last project, a dining room side table of 8/4 Ash. The large dovetails were interesting to make and required construction of a hefty jig to hold the (heavy!) top and sides in alignment for marking, sawing chiseling and routing. The inspiration came from a piece in Architectural Digest. I don't know who's home was being showcased, but there was a Maple table in one picture that I liked. I made my table strictly from memory. When I was finished I found the picture again. I was surprised to realize I had over-estimated the thickness of the top and sides. Also I thought I had remembered that the dovetails had interesting spacing. That detail must have come from some other piece that merged into memory as they were just rigidly laid out without any variation. In the end, I liked my design better. The dovetails are sized and spaced according to a Fibonacci sequence. I didn't take any pictures during construction, but I'll be doing a similar piece soon and I'll do that then. Cheers, Rich
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  47. All done.... glamour shots
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  48. I've not made a large number of these stools, more like a half dozen, and so I hardly count as an expert here. There are others on the forums with so much more relevant experience. Past stools have used a scorp, pull shave and travishers to shape seats, and the legs were drilled with a brace and auger bit. Tenons and mortices were tapered with shop made reamers and tenon makers ... For this build I decided to go a different route, and combine power and hand tools. One reason was that the wood chosen was Hard Maple, which is a little more work to excavate than, say, a softwood such as Radiata Pine. The boards for the seats needed to be glued from two sections as the seats were 14" across, and the maximum I had was 12". I was reasonably successful in disguising this with two of the seats. The thickness of 1 1/2" could have been 1 1/4" and saved some shaving. The stools ended up 27 1/2" high, and the legs were shaped from 1 1/2" square x 31" long sections. Below are seats cut and the template used for both the outline and marking the position of the legs ... I made a simple fixture for production ripping the legs on the slider ... Later, I built a version of this with an adjustable parallel guide fence. This will rip any width and also taper legs. The plan was to drill the mortices on the drill press using a 24mm WoodOwl auger for this purpose (no leading screw). These are to be parallel-, not tapered mortices ... The legs are a 10 degree rake and, being three legs and arranged around essentially a circle, the resultant angle is simply a line to the centre. Not a lot of skill required here. More machine work, but some hand working coming in ... The seats were turned on the lathe. Just a shallow hollow required. The reason for doing it this way was to create an even hollow in what is a three-corned, but round seat ... While at it, rough turned the legs .. Finally, the hand tools take over. First it is the drawknife to rough out the tapers on the outside edges ... Then I had a fun time using different spokeshaves (I had not had a chance to use any in some months, so this was making up for lost time) .. The Stanley #84 and #85 is an amazing shave (Jim, I believe that you gave me these). These work on the same principle as a travisher: the toe has a slight (2-3 degree) taper, which enables the depth of cut to be altered with the angle it is held to the work piece. The shaving done here is largely end grain, and the other shave to shine was the Veritas LA. The hollowed seats were further shaped and smoothed with a travisher ... Then back to shaves for shaping the sides. The HNT Gordon can shave into the grain, while the lower angle of the LN leaves a finer finish ... I smoothed the surfaces with a scraper ... ... however Lynndy disapproved and wanted a sanded finish, which is how it ended. There are a few gaps in the photos collected, such as the shaping of the legs. Not a lot here other than they taper from 25mm at the base, to 38mm at the swell, and then down to 30mm at the start of the tenon. The tenon is 24mm. Here is a shot of the three stools with legs inserted ... ... and another with one set of stretchers in place ... If anything, it is the fitting of the stretchers that was one of the more exacting parts of this build. Over-length stretchers. These are 25mm at the centre and will have 5/8" tenons .. The steps in fitting the stretchers were .. Firstly, I created a template for the positions of the legs, drawing these onto a sheet of MDF ... The lines joining the legs provided a guide for drilling. The height of the legs were marked. These were at 160mm, 190mm and 220mm. It is advisable to do these one set at a time, that is, drill the mortices, and insert the stretcher for one set of legs, then move to the next height. The reason: it is a little like fitting mitres - three corners are easy, but the last might require a little massaging. Insert the stretchers for two sets of legs, and then the last set can be marked accurately. Once the mortices are drilled (halfway), then the stretchers are measured for length. The ends of the stretchers can be turned exactly to 5/8". A great tool for this is the Sorby Sizing Tool Set (photo from Elia Bizzarri) ... When glueing up, the stretchers-into-legs must be inserted first. Only then is it possible to do the leg tenons-into-seat mortices. Once the seat goes on, the structure is triangulated, and it becomes incredibly rigid. The stretchers would be impossibly be come out unless the seat is removed. The last task is to level the legs ... .. and saw them off ... The stools were finished in one coat of Ubeaut Hard Shellac (for a little amber), and then three coats of General Finishes water-based poly were rubbed on. This finish is hard-wearing and does not yellow. Regards from Perth Derek
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  49. We finished 10 kid's desk and chair sets along with 8 student desks this morning out at my shop for the Community Desk Project! Now I have to haul some firewood around the house and put on the faucet covers before the snow hits Monday (high of 25 degrees), then it's Miller time!
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