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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    SCM S500P (MM20) Bandsaw Review On a warm midsummer day, standing in my shop and sipping a glass of chardonnay, my wife asked me what piece of equipment I wanted next. I did not hesitate nor falter; I did not waiver. “A heavy bandsaw for resawing.” Her response drifted down on the wings of angels, softly, melodically, beautifully. “I don’t know what that is, but you have a birthday coming up, why don’t you get it?” My dream machine happened to be on AWFS show special pricing, so I did. I felt that I had to do due diligence even though I knew my mind was set on the MM16 Minimax bandsaw from SCM. The through-the-years closest-thing-to-a-consensus was that it was THE bandsaw to have for resawing. SCM bandsaws, with the exception of the S45N, are made by Centauro in Italy. I’ve sold lot’s of them and my customers were, to a person, thrilled with them. I also looked hard at the Laguna LT18, Laguna 18BX (great bang for the buck!) and the Felder FB510 and FB610. All great saws, but I’m at the point where everything I buy, I buy for the last time and don’t look back. Disclaimer* - I sold SCMI (SCM), Laguna and Felder equipment early on in my career. Having settled on the MM16 I dug a little deeper online and decided that the 20” model was worth the difference due to the larger wheel diameter = longer blade life on wide resaw blades. Plus, 4” more resaw capacity should I ever need it. I called Sam Blasco of SCM/Minimax to get a quote. Sam is a terrific guy and a very straight shooter. I also checked online and ultimately ordered from Elite Metal Tools. Same price, but freight paid. SCM quotes FOB destination with “white glove” service, meaning that if there’s any damage in transit, SCM assumes full responsibility - at a $750 up-charge. For the difference I was willing to take the risk and the machine arrived in perfect condition, having been drop-shipped directly from SCM in GA in their “ark of the covenant” crating. Arrival Wow, this thing is heavy. By my best calculated guess, the crate had some 1200 - 1500 nails in it. Not exaggerating. The machine was blocked up solidly and wrapped to protect anything from shifting. 10 out of 10 on packaging. It took 3 of us two hours to unload it from the trailer, move it through the garage and into the shop. Unpacking It took an hour to remove the crate and stand it up. No problems. FWIW, it took another 2 hours to break the crate down for reuse and disposal. Assembly Nothing much to assemble. We hoisted it up off the pallet using the beams in my shop and a come-along. I installed the casters/mobility kit and leveling bolts, scooted it off the pallet, cleaned off the packing oil from the table and waited for my blades to arrive. I spent my time waiting for the blades to arrive tweaking little things that many would say shouldn’t have to be done, but that from experience I know still do need to be done. More on that below. Once UPS brought the blades I installed the 1” Lenox carbide tipped resaw blade and used it to adjust the 90 degree stop, set the blade guides, etc. I was surprised, albeit pleasantly surprised to see that the saw has Euro blade guides. Almost all of the info I had read in forums said SCM had switched to Carter guides. In fact, I almost ordered the bandsaw about a year ago and was told that they only shipped with Carter guides, so I held off to look into other saws. Not that Carter guides are poor guides, they’re not, but I prefer Euro style guides. I contacted Sam again. He said they switched back several years ago from Carter to Euro. Ready to Run I’ll break this review down into two main parts. Part 1 is the greatness of the machine and what makes me very glad that I bought it. Part 2 are those little annoyances that I’ve found in most (but not all) equipment I’ve owned that I will soon forget all about. Part 1 The saw is a beast. It’s almost scary in its capacity. It has just under 20” of resaw capacity and carries up to a 1 ¼” blade with a 4.8 Hp motor. With it running and the guides all the way up I just find myself thinking, “Don’t trip. Don’t trip.” The guide post elevation system is the best I’ve come across short of a motorized system. If I set the guides properly all the way at the top I can lower them down the full 20” and they don’t drift front to back or side to side at all once the post is locked. SCM uses a chain and sprocket mechanism that’s independent of the saw body. +1 The wheels are very well balanced and heavy, ½” thick cast iron. They power the blade through anything. Power - Holy crap. The brake is very responsive, all things considered. There’s an interconnect to the starter switch, so when pressed it cuts power to the saw. I don’t know what these wheels weigh, but they’re massive. Stops in 1-2 seconds. The blade guide telescoping cover is great. As mentioned above, the Euro guides are simple to set without tools. I’ve used lots of different guides over the years, but the side bearing Euro guides I’ve always found to be my preference. If it had come with Laguna style ceramic I’d probably be just as happy, though I’ve found those to be a little trickier to set. It feeds at 5000 feet per minute. That’s fast. It would be no problem to put a power feed on this machine. The cut quality with a high quality carbide tipped blade is superb. I would give it one pass through a sander before glueing a veneer down. There is no discernible drift with the 1” blade. SCM touts the industry-only triple-box-beam spine on this saw as being capable of very high blade tension, meaning it cuts straight. For what this saw is designed to do, it does a great job. One thing to keep in mind is that the minimum blade width (as shipped) is ¼”. Anything smaller requires retrofitting guide blocks in place of the Euro guides. Part 2 It seems there are almost always some little annoyances that you notice up front that, over time fade from memory. Here are mine. Mobility kit sucks on anything other than a flat, flat floor. The casters are too small in diameter for this size and weight of a machine. The J-bar is too light for this size machine. It won't fit through a door and weighs over 200 lbs. more than my Sawstop PCS. The casters on it are too close together and the whole thing feels like it will tip over if you turn it more than a few degrees. I bought a Bora PM-3500 mobile base since… The doors have to be open 180 degrees to get anything larger than a ¾” blade on. If you have the saw near a wall that’s a problem. They could easily move the hinges to the left an inch and make the doors an inch wider so that opening at 90 degrees would allow access. Solved by the Bora mobile base. Move the saw out from the wall to change blades. Deafening screech on startup, meaning the motor drive belt/pulley was slipping. I called SCM and was told to give it time to break in. New belt, etc. I did and it didn’t stop. I adjusted the belt tension and problem solved. Table edges were sharp. Took a file to them. Solved. Fence was out of perpendicularity to the table +/- 1/64” over 4”. Filed down the landing on the bottom of the fence. Solved. I’ve read other reviews that find fault with the dust collection. I’m pleasantly surprised that it is as efficient as it is. One complaint I’ve seen more than once is that dust floats down from above like snow. There are two ~2” diameter holes on top of the saw connected by a weldment for lifting the saw. Cover them up. Solved. If you’re in the market for a premium bandsaw that will resaw whatever you throw at it, this will. I’m very happy with this saw. * For those familiar with my background, you can skip this. For those who aren’t, I feel pretty qualified to submit this review, having spent my career in the woodworking machinery business, from supplying upscale hobby shops to multi-million dollar production equipment. I’ve also been an off and on (as life permitted) avid woodworking hobbyist for over 50 years.
  2. 7 points
    Sooo i may have done something.... I was about to go and just pickup a rigid from home depot, when i called the outlet one more time. They have a PM1000 ready to go if i want it. My wife, two kids jump in the car, rent a trailer and drove 3 hours to go get it. So happy to finally have a table saw. Cost of saw, 1350$ not to shabby. Thank you everyone for the comments and direction. The saw stop was just to far out of the budget. Maybe one day.
  3. 6 points
    Meh.... everyone should just invest their time / money into the tools / technology they want to use and enjoy the fruits of their labors.
  4. 4 points
    I'm going to blame @Mark J for my brief descent into the world of scissors. I wanted to have a pair that would fit with the cabinet, without putting a big pair of tailor's shears in here. These seemed like they fit. I made a holder that's got a peg to hold their weight, a small recess for the pivot point, and a magnet at the right spacing for them to lay flat and not move. It works really well. I was intending to pull the holders out to finish them this weekend, but according to Canada Post my other tools all arrive tomorrow. I might as well wait and make the last couple before pulling everything out.
  5. 3 points
    Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html). This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bearings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 2 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 2 points
    This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Thanks Tom, Mark, and John. I will contact Richmond Woodturners. Today I used @wtnhighlander method of moist heat to loosen both cross members under one of the side chairs. Basically, used old rag towels, moistened, and heated in the microwave in a pyrex glass bowl. I wrapped a hot rag around each of the tenon/joint areas. Took 15-20 minutes for each cross member, but eventually the glue loosened up enough for me to turn the x-member. Front legs came apart enough to remove Sheltie's chew toy. If anyone can date the chairs by logo or pdtn/part/model # 11651910, pic of logo on chair bottom also below.
  10. 1 point
    Good choice! I found out about those top holes the hard way too. I added another dust port in the lower hinge corner of the lower door, on my old 600, and it helped dust collection a lot. Even though machines this size are still bandsaws, they put resawing several leagues ahead of the typical hobbyist bandsaw, and seem like a whole new category of woodworking machinery when you first run one.
  11. 1 point
    I just can't get over the size of that thing.
  12. 1 point
    I am not absolutely positive, it has been a while, but I think both drawer front and sides should be the same thickness when using the Leigh jig for half-blind dovetails. I glanced at the manual and it didn't specify, but I would call Leigh customer service before you do the veneer, and then cut the dovetails.
  13. 1 point
    Latest Wood Magazine issue 263 rated the Grizzly G0634Z as their "top value" with the Hammer and Jet tying for "Top Tool". Interesting considering the abuse Jet has taken on alignment issues; they have obviously responded and fixed those. I would be hard pressed to go with an "also ran" company who is relatively new to combo machines. The Hammer A3-xx series certainly has a large following in the $5k-plus tier. What I do might make me move to that platform but, purely for space and personal reasons. That is, I don't make my living doing this. If Hammer could just get a second gear on that table-raising mechanism . My Grizzly separates have served me well for many years but, do require a substantial footprint.
  14. 1 point
    Happy with my Hammer A3/31 J/P combo although I still lust after a Felder like @Llama ...after this basement maybe
  15. 1 point
    Brushes would be my first guess, since they sometimes shift on the commutator if the bearings have any play. Electrical connection in the switch (or electronics if it has a speed control) would be my second.
  16. 1 point
    So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  17. 1 point
    I'd like to toss a bucket of cold water onto the idea that 3D prints or CNC routing jobs a 'set and forget' operations after the design is finalized. By my estimate, at least 20% of such jobs I have personally witnessed, or seen discussed by other makers on the interwebs, fail before completion. Tangled filiment, clogged nozzles, broken bits, all result in extensive waste and lost time if your don't monitor the job continuously. Murphy's law is fully enforced - if you aren't watching, anything that CAN go wrong probably will. Counterpoint, if I screw up a cut or break a tool, I can recover right away, because I am never going to be leaving my saw or chisel to work on their own.
  18. 1 point
    That's brilliant! I'm surprised the height worked out just right.
  19. 1 point
    I got the saw till made and installed today. I wanted to minimize how much I had to lift the saw to get it out, since the cabinet's up pretty high. I found that a large dowel in the handle worked, since the two saws that fit here are open handled. I used a rare species of ash, the reclaimed snow shovel handle variety that has dark grain lines. That's what was left over after I scraped off the varnish. The left side of the dowel is threaded onto a piece of all thread that is installed in the cabinet side. I used the thread taps and 1/4-20 all thread. The right side is a support that I wasted about 2 hours carving. Totally unnecessary, but it was fun. The top block is sized to allow the saws to sit with the guards on the blades. I prefer to store them that way. With this in, I realized that I could slip the tenon saw in behind the plane till. Fits perfectly, and I still have room for some miscellaneous stuff. I was looking, and my list of tools without a home is getting much shorter. I need to organize my squares and rulers, and put in the rest of my saws. At that point I should only have a few things left. Although I've almost fallen in the trap of going and buying tools I've been thinking about, so I can fit them in now... A nice set of screwdrivers, some gouges, maybe a shiny new square or two...
  20. 1 point
    There - I've protected myself against future clumsiness. That was actually really simple to do, once I thought about it, and it still works just as well.
  21. 1 point
    I would not attempt to repair the damaged rungs with filler or putty. The results are very unlikely to be satisfactory. Moist heat can sometimes soften wood glue enough to allow disassembly. Or, the rungs might be cut off close to the joint, and the remainder of the round tenon drilled out of the hole. A decent turner should be able to replicate the pattern easily enough. As for the table, a better photo would help. If you know anything about what sort of finish is on it, that information will help someone here provide better advice about correcting the haze. Are these things valuable antiques, or just sentimental keepsakes because your grandparents owned them?
  22. 1 point
    I snuck in a few minutes to knock out a marking gauge rack today. It made sense to me to also put my marking knife, and then I added my most used awl. I like it for the most part, but I'm debating how I feel about the marking knife blade being out like that. When I went to grab the gauge beside it, my instinct was to grab from underneath near the blade. If it's possible to stab myself on this thing I'll find a way. That's why you'll see most of my tools have blade covers.
  23. 1 point
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  24. 1 point
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  25. 1 point
    not real common Drew, but there are those of us who appreciate a fine stogie at the end of a long day, I'm curious to see how it does at the silent auction, not for everyone but if you get a couple of guys that want it who knows what they will pay
  26. 1 point
    Derek awesome craftsmanship as always!! Great piece! Man is that going to pop with some finish on it.
  27. 1 point
    I finished gluing all the doors over the last few days. It mostly went well, although my parts seem to have had some minor sizing discrepancies. As a result, I'll need to plane or sand them to eliminate it. Not a big deal, just annoying. I was happy with how the dovetails cleaned up though. I needed a break from the main case, so I've started on the drawers. I glued up a pile of my maple scraps to get the backs and sides, then planed them down. I also got my drawer fronts cut to size. I'm really happy I found this board for it. Next up is getting back to dovetails for the drawers. I'm debating whether to bother with half blinds, or just do another set of through dovetails.
  28. 1 point
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  29. 1 point
    Sign in a Ford dealer in 1971- Shop Rates- $25 per hour $50 per hour if you watch $100 per hour if you help
  30. 1 point
    Well written and documented. Thank you.
  31. 1 point
    Derek you do some simply stunning work!! ...and how about that rebate plane shaving in pic #5 ....nice!
  32. 1 point
    So Dr Derek how many times a day can I feel like you did on the screw up and still be sane? Seriously I know the feeling. And I hate that momentary thought. And immediately feel better when I realize all is well. The thought of the screw up reminds me to be thorough and dry fit. Thanks Derek. I am enjoying this build, the same as all your work.
  33. 1 point
    Still liking what you are doing.
  34. 1 point
    I’m in on this one as well Derek, wishing someday I will get to your level of skill, beautiful work sir!
  35. 1 point
    Not a problem Derek. I did a round over on dovetails on a bench, I really liked the look.
  36. 1 point
    You always make my day when you post a project. A question: do you plan to leave the dovetails proud? That might be an interesting look.
  37. 1 point
    Beautiful work! I would be very nervous the deeper and more invested I got into the project. And the demand of incredible precision would be hard on my well being. I will watch and appreciate your exotic skills. Thanks for sharing!
  38. 1 point
    Another great journal going here Derek! Thanks for taking us along I always pick up tips from your postings. This looks to be a really neat piece with some interesting challenges.
  39. 1 point
    I saw these on an old episode of Woodsmith Shop and decided to make 4 to use when breaking down my stock with the jig saw. They raise up your stock to allow you to cut over the bench instead of having to have you cut hang off the edge and needing to hold the off cut with one hand to keep it from breaking away and splintering. For storage I put an eye screw in he end of each to hang from hooks over head when I done with them.
  40. 1 point
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!
  41. 1 point
    Complete and ready to go (this is much nicer than my bench)
  42. 1 point
    Bench is now finished! I acutually finished the construction about 1 month ago, and have already finished another project using the bench. The only part that I still needed to finish was the chop, because I had some decoration to do on it. Final dimensions are 79 1/2" long x 25 1/4" wide by 35" tall. I didn't make a sliding deadman as I don't do projects that really require it, but I did route in the groove in the front slab in case I decide to make one in the future, so it will be easy to add if needed. As a present for finally finishing, I bought myself a Veritas BU Smoothing Plane to finish the chop. It is very satisfying to use. I also bought the front knob and tote to convert my LABP into a little smoother. This is a great upgrade Here are some details of the chop. I went with a gothic theme, and bonus points to whomever can identify the symbol (it's not religious or political or anything like that...): Anyway, that it. This was a fun build, and again I'd like to thank everyone else on here who posted their builds as it made mine much easier. Art
  43. 1 point
    I'm sure the mitre joints would be fun, but I had enough trouble getting good results on normal through dovetails. With where I am, building this at all should be skill building. I used the router to clean up the pins and it was amazing. So much easier and faster than chiseling everything, although I felt like I was cheating. The joints came together pretty well. By the end of the evening, I had a dry assembled case. Next up is the lower support, which gets a mortise and tenon into the sides.
  44. 1 point
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  45. 1 point
    I'd tear the whole garage down, build it adjoining the house, make the ridge the same height as the other end, and same roof slope, with a matching hip. You could make it as wide as you wanted to. Draw 24', and see what it looks like.
  46. 1 point
    I've been a lurker here for years reading posts and soaking up knowledge, but I rarely post. I recently took on a project that I felt was well above my skill level, and I learned a lot form it. This post is meant primarily to encourage those who feel they don't have the "right tools" or the skills to go ahead and give it a shot anyway. You'll surprise yourself with what you can do. A bit about me, I am by no means a pro. During college I worked as a framer for about 6 months before my fear of heights got the better of me. I then got a job via classified ad (that'll date me) for a finish carpenter. When I called the number on the ad, the guy asked me only a few questions; 1.) Do you own reliable transportation? 2.) Do you own the following tools: table saw, compound mitre saw, jig saw, router, palm sander, air compressor, nail guns...the list goes on and on. 3.) Can you start tomorrow? I did own a vehicle (that couldn't fit all the tools needed) , I could start the next day, but I didn't own any tools other than framing hand tools (but I said I had them). I went out that night and convinced my young bride that dropping a load of money on these tools for the job was a good idea. So I did. I showed up the next day with a car load of new tools (not the nicest) I'd never used and proceeded to get an education. I had no idea what I was doing, but I made some money and loved the job. I did finish work for about 3 years to put me through school, and that is the extent of my woodworking experience. Fastforward 11 years since I left woodworking to park my butt in the cockpit of a jet for a living, and my wife called upon me to jump into the way-back machine, dust off my tools and build her a new kitchen. I foolishly said okay. This project included gutting our existing kitchen, removing walls and ceiling, rewiring and new pluming, so It was more than just a new cabinet build. Apologies for the mess in the foreground/background. I have kids...and they are messy. Kitchen before: Kitchen after: Loos smaller than before, but the wall to the left includes the pantry with didn't exist before. All in all we gained a lot more usable cabinet space than we previously had. The peninsula with the oven (far left of kitchen) used to have a floor to ceiling wall behind it that blocked the dinning room (where my ladder is sitting), so we lost the upper cabinets there. We doubled the width of the island and added storage on the back and also added 3 feet to the length. Various Details - Vent Hood Back of Island Pantry wall with faux beams Dovetail maple drawers Anyway, that's the gist of it. If I can do it, anyone can. So go ahead and jump in and start something. Reading blogs and watching videos online is great and motivating, but nothing beats making sawdust (and mistakes) in the shop. I may post construction pictures and techniques if there is interest. This was a fun and occasionally frustrating project that took about 6 months from beginning of demolition to finished product.
  47. 1 point
    I’ve always had an interest in building, fixing and DIY. Our family would spend 3 months a year in a very remote fishing village in SE Alaska, so maintaining/building/fixing seems to run in the family DNA. In 2009, we bought our first home – right off a busy street, but super close to my work. It had been a rental for 30+ years before we bought, so there were LOTS of projects… I made cabinet doors, cased windows (so many windows...), remodeled our wood stair case with new pine treads and risers, built a deck, built a bed for one of the kids, and many other projects. Projects need tools, which then allow you to build more projects. I also built tall mirror frames, and other finish pieces for the family. I discovered a passion for woodworking during that time – it relaxes me, and lets me use my hands to create. We also had 2 kids, and about 2 years ago, we decided to sell and move a little way out of the city so the kids could play outside and we wouldn’t have to hear traffic. In early 2016, we bought a new house situated on a little over an acre. Part of the move was to give space for a shop, so I could continue to tinker, create and build, and allowing the Wife to park in the garage for the first time in our 9 year marriage (sorry Babe, just a few more weeks). Once the transaction closed on the new property, we started getting quotes and figuring out what needed to happen to enable to the shop to be built. I had some ideas about what I wanted: 24x36’, 864 sqft. Big enough to park in if necessary, and still have a mostly functioning shop space. Pole building (for cost) Tall interior ceiling height with limited interior roof framing to cast shadows and interfere with work. We’ve elected to go with a shed style roof with glu-lams/LVL's so there’s minimal interior roof structure hanging down to cast shadows and interfere with tall work. The low side will be about 9’ on the inside, while the tall side will be around 15’. Single garage door, I didn’t to lose wall space, and I am not planning to park inside it anyway. I’m also concerned about preventing theft, so minimizing the number of potential entry points was high on my list. My design ideas were influenced by Frank Howarth’s shop, ideas from BubbaEstes’ build, as well as other shops I’ve seen on here and other places, along with our own needs and desires for how the shop should sit on our property, and what we want to do in it. Getting ready to build has taken a year, and we signed our building contract back in June. We had to take care of some septic requirements, namely getting a reserve drainfield identified, having test holes dug, and inspected (“yep, those are holes”). We also had to get some electrical work done, like replacing the panel, setting up for a generator and the shop sub-panel. We were warned to expect the permit process to last for 4-5 months: it was completed in less than 3 weeks. Everyone from the inspectors to the builder were shocked by the speed. In the middle of November, our site prep was completed. One of our main concerns was maintaining the forested nature of our lot: we didn’t want to remove many trees. We took down a couple of tall, thin trees which I'm pretty sure were cherry, a fir, a cedar, and a decent sized maple… the maple will become a Roubo bench someday, and I’ve got a small pile of cherry logs waiting for me to chainsaw mill them down to size. The guy with the excavator did a phenomenal job – the site is cleared and graded for drainage, and he laid down a layer of crushed asphalt as a building pad. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the asphalt compacts down - it's REALLY solid under foot. We called the builder on 4 December to let them know our site prep was complete, and they told me to expect materials deliveries beginning on Monday 11 December. That same evening (one week early), a guy pulled up in our driveway and dropped off our steel entry door for the shop… Then on Thursday at 6:45 am while at work, I got a phone call from a truck driver, asking where I wanted him to leave the metal panels. By end of the day Thursday, most of the building materials were organized strategically about the site, 3 days early. Construction starts the week of 18 December. I'll keep posting updates and pictures of the build over the next few weeks. Here we go… J
  48. 1 point
    I've got 3 fileing cabinets that were made for storing rows of punch cards. Great for hardware now but they were brutally heavy to get up the stairs to put them in the loft.
  49. 1 point
    I thought about the webcam, but the Christmas prep, the last minute log move and life in general just got in the way... I didn't have time to do the research and make it happen. I'm off work all next week, and I'll be able to post pictures more frequently. Thanks for the tip on curling the bucket - I tried that, but between the log being pear shaped, and my general lack of excavator skill, I found it easier to strap the dang thing to the bucket with the 15000 lb tow straps. I slabbed up the knuckle where the branches splay out on the bandsaw on Saturday - I'm hoping the rest of the log is as awesome as this part is.
  50. 1 point
    Well, there is is, all complete! Sander is up and running and just waiting for the new DC piping! Huge "THANKS" @Llama for getting some measurements to me early enough to have the stand ready to go! Hope some people got a few things here that they can use in their shops!