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  1. 13 points
    I got finish applied. I did 3 coats total on all the base parts for the table and benches. For the seats of the benches and the table top I put down 5 coats. The wood dents fairly easily so I'm a bit concerned on the long term durability. Beings this is for my sister I'm goign to tell her to use it hard and if I need to make a new top for it someday that will not be a problem. Hopefully it fares better than I'm expecting and will just get little dents and scratches giving it good character instead. Table top thickness at 11/16" looks pretty good all things considered. I was a bit worried that leaning on it would cause the center of the table to sag a bit. I sat on the edge ... nothing. Stood in the center of the table ... nothing. I thought about doing a cleat or two to the underside to keep it flat but in the end i feel the table legs will accomplish that quite well. The heart wood of this birch is beautiful, Nothing wrong with the white sap wood but it juts doesn't have the depth and chatoyance that the heart wood does. Had to get that to come across in pictures. This bench was the worst offender for jointing and was cut into 5 parts. The glue lines are almost invisible. I used walnut wedges for securing the through tenon. I don't know why but I do LOVE wedged through tenons. The idea that i can make something very stable and sturdy and taking it apart and putting it together requires zero tools is just fun. IKEA can take a hike.
  2. 11 points
    We went to our Christmas in the park the other night and year after year it continues to concern me that Santa isn't providing any safety upgrades for the elves in his work shop. This is just one example - the saw has no riving knife or blade guard. Also there doesn't seem to be any form of dust collection, but maybe inhaling candy cane dust isn't harmful to you lungs. I does appear that he does have a push stick.
  3. 10 points
    Hey all, This will be sort of quick project journal on two recent bed projects I've completed. The first is a house bed I made for 1 year old daughter. We already had the extra queen mattress, so that determined the size, and my wife wanted something close to the ground so my daughter could climb into it right from the start. Over the summer I posted about salvaging a large number of cedar boards from an old deck. I planed the boards down, tossed the excessively deteriorated ones, and dried the others in my garage for about 4 months, which was sufficient for the approximately 1 inch thick boards to dry out. Sorry, I didn't capture many shots of the construction, but it involved making two rectangular sub frames which are bolted together and in turn have the two end A-Frames bolted to them. Initially I planned to construct everything with strategic bolted connections, to allow for disassembly, and I mostly carried that through to the end. However, as I got further into the project, I realized the cedar material really was quite soft, and this probably won't be a hand me down type bed, but should be fun for my daughter none the less. This also helped me decide on the antique white paint, which matches a couple other items in her room. This also reduced the need to do as much sanding, as I was truly in a hurry as she was rapidly outgrowing her crib! This was the original version: However, after putting it to use, my wife complained that the horizontal bar made it awkward to enter and exit the bed. She was right. Taking that horizontal bar out completely wasn't really an option, as it provided stability to the rest of the bed frame, so I came up with this modification (bonus points for spotting my cats tail!): The second bed was needed for guests. I looked into buying a simple metal frame, but online review scared me away from that option and decided to come up with something simple. I settled on this platform design to keep the bed relatively low to the ground and eliminate the need for a box spring. I selected cherry for its universal appeal. I didn't have any 16/4 Cherry for the legs, so they are made of four 4/4 plies laminated together, to a final thickness of about 3 1/2 inches. I decided to use floating tenon joints on the end frames. I was able to use a dowel jig on the ends of the long rail pieces, which was less awkward than trying to do them by hand or by router. For the mortises on the legs, I used hand tools. Gluing up the eccentric rail to leg connections proved to be more challenging than anticipated. I do not have any bar clamps that can cover the required 6+ feet, so I had to use strap clamps. However, the straps do not apply their force solely down the length of the rail, as a result, the legs wanted to rotate. I solved this problem by using cutting 2x4 filler boards to balance the load. I cut the 2x4 a tiny amount longer than the rail, which ensured a closed joint on the show, outside face. Next step was assembling the frame, and gluing on pine laminations for the inner slat support. I decided to finish the bed with 3 coats of gloss Enduro Var and 1 coat of Satin Next moving the bed to its final location: Close ups of some details: I chamfered all the edges with a block plane and used non-mortising hardware, which I already had on hand. They are very strong. Chamfered Corners: And the final shot: Overall I'm happy with how both beds turned out. I was able to complete them in a timely manner, minimized waste (all salvaged A LOT of material for my daughters bed), and now my daughter and visiting parents have a place to sleep! Thanks for taking a look!
  4. 5 points
    I've been making some Christmas presents, little hand launch helicopter toys you see them at stores usually made of plastic. Anyway I had to make the first one with my array of rasps and files it took hours to make my first prototype it worked great but, I'm making 10 so I made a jig to support the propeller securely and bought a Shinto rasp holy crap this thing does an amazing job for $20+ I've only been using the fine side of the rasp and it hog off the material rapidly between the jig and, rasp I'm getting 1 propeller sanded and, ready for the dowel in less then a 1/2 hr. The rasp leaves a consistently flat surface and a smooth face very little sanding, I've seen these around forever, I'm a believer now!
  5. 5 points
    I’m still trying to verify without asking
  6. 4 points
    I don't think 'cheap' and 'soft close' have ever been used in the same sentence...
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    That was the original prototype for saw stop, Santa's got connections
  9. 3 points
    These must be stealth copters, I don't see any pictures.
  10. 3 points
    I have been waiting for my turn to arrive at the upholsters and finally took it in last Thursday and should have it back in the next 2 or 3 days. In the mean time my son in law was able to get the pivot and adjustment pins done for me. Even this took a while because his company was moving to a new location and putting some new machines in. So as it happened they used my pins to test the set up of a couple of machines. I am still deciding whether to go with the present finish or do a brushed finish. I am leaning toward brushed, I am wondering if the present finish would look to flashy. What is your opinions? Here are a few pictures and the final results of the pins.
  11. 3 points
    Is that like walking into a Mercedes dealership and saying "I want to see the cheapest car you have"?
  12. 3 points
    Of course if you guys did move you might be able to get out of building those dinning room chairs .
  13. 3 points
    Remember that a thickness planer is not designed to flatten a board. It only makes the two faces parallel. A jointer is generally needed to create a flat surface. You can get by with the thickness planer if you fasten the board to a known flat 'sled', like a piece of mdf, and shim under the high spots of the board so that it doesn't rock. Take very light cuts until the top face checks flat with a straightedge and or winding sticks. Then remove the sled and run the board through with the flat face against the beds.
  14. 2 points
    I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  15. 2 points
    That came out super nice Drew. If the table is going to be a daily user I think that the dings and marks that show up over time are good. It shows that a family lives here.
  16. 2 points
    It came out great. Now all you gotta do is wrap it.
  17. 2 points
    I don't see a fence, either. But Mr. Elf does appear to be wearing goggles, so there is that.
  18. 2 points
    I need to buy some of the tiger hard maple from you . I think I can sell some of it to Bmac.
  19. 2 points
    Looks like I'm going to end up with one sooner than I thought. I haven't done any tree climbing since 1999, but still have all the gear, less a climbing saw. Since I'm already invested in the Makita battery system, I'm sticking with that. I just wish that I had known a few weeks ago that I would end up needing one, when several retailers had Makita stuff at 25% off. My least favorite thing about being up in a tree with a chainsaw is starting it. That's the real advantage to a cordless saw up a tree. I don't have a whole lot to do with a climbing saw, but enough that it will be worth having one. This one is 199 tool only, since I already have plenty of batteries, and chargers.
  20. 2 points
    Call OSHSA, right now. This kind of abuse just cannot continue.
  21. 2 points
    Drop it off at my place i can make sure that doesn't happen. Especially as I'm using every excuse to not work on the chairs.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    To be honest I find it refreshing to see that two people will do what it takes to make a marriage work, congrats to you both!!
  24. 2 points
    And to think, those two are only 30 years old between them.
  25. 2 points
    +1, I am also a believer. Great for sculpted items a-la Maloof. A good compliment to your other rasps and shaping tools.
  26. 2 points
    good to know. A few days ago I was looking for my rasp and could not find it. So there is one on my list. I just ordered it. Thanks!
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    Trouble is that there are so many more way to do something wrong than to do something right.
  29. 2 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  30. 1 point
    Sawstop Inline Router Table My wonderful wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday next week so I obliged with a list. She recognized the Sawstop name and ordered the 27” x 16” inline router table and dust box to replace my shop built router table I’ve been using for years. It arrived yesterday, so you know where I’ve been today. I’ll bore you with a little of my background. I’m retired from 30+ years in the woodworking machinery business, starting with the types of tools all of us here are familiar with - upscale hobbyist to small production shop woodworking stuff. From there I moved on to heavy industrial production machinery and finally to specializing in industrial CNC equipment before retiring a few years ago. I’ve also been a lifelong hobbyist. With that out of the way… Impressions I’ve said it here and other places, but I’ll say it again. I’ve never, ever seen a company do a better job of making it as easy as possible for a consumer to understand and assemble their product than Sawstop. Any machine, any level, and I’ve probably assembled many hundreds. From packaging to manuals, they do it right. Here’s an example. Four of the five boxes inside the large (very heavy duty) shipping box contained a note indicating that the manual was in a separate box. The manual was in the fifth box with the cast iron router table.The manual is 62 pages of photos with detailed explanations of what hardware to use where. Each bag was labelled with the assembly it went to. When I unpacked the router table itself I noticed what looked like a scratch in the cast iron. Sure enough, it was. Then I noticed that there was an identical scratch on the opposite edge - for lining up the fence to the center of the bit. Devil in the details. This thing is really, really solid, really well built, end to end. The surface is flat using a Starrett 36” straightedge. I could not see light below the edge. The fence body is a very heavy anodized extrusion with integral dust port, side to side adjustment and T-slots for accessories. They include (hard to describe) T-slot spacer shims that let you use the fence like a jointer by offsetting the right and left fence faces. The fence itself is perfect for a table saw installation. On and off takes seconds, 90 degrees square to the table with a Starrett combination square. The extrusion looks almost identical to the JessEm Mast-R-Fence II extrusion other than the anodizing color. It differs in the way the fence faces slide side to side in T-tracks on the Sawstop vs in slots in the extrusion itself on the JessEm. It also mounts directly to the table rather to the side tracks on the JessEm. The router mount plate has 10 (10!) leveling bolts with lock nuts for precisely adjusting it to the table surface. The legs seem significantly beefier than the legs that came with the saw. The leg mounting brackets definitely are. It includes a paddle switch that the router plugs into, as well as holders for the tools like insert ring wrenches, height adjustment tool, etc. Installation It took more time to remove the old router table than to install the new one. It took about 2 hours to assemble and install the new table. That included disconnecting the outfeed table, cleanup, etc. I installed the Sawstop router table (SSRT) on the right end of my Sawstop PCS, 36”. I did not install it in any of the 3 suggested ways covered in the manual. The 3 ways listed in the manual are to the left of the blade, to the right of the blade with an optional 10” cast iron insert or with a shop made spacer insert like the laminate covered one shipped with the saw. I chose to instead mount it directly to the right extension wing with no insert. I did it because the SSRT is just long enough (16”) to still support the fence at its full 36” width, AND it lets me avoid the dust pipe that drops at that exact 36” width (see photo) for the big majority of the work I do with the router table. I’m going to give this a shot and if I don’t like it I’ll add the insert back in. I got my saw before Sawstop took on the router table line, so the rails were never intended to support them. Because of this, Sawstop offers new rails that are drilled and countersunk for the SSRT and notched for the miter slots in the SSRT. My rails don’t line up. In the photos you can see that I notched my rails for my old table and that’s what I plan to do for the new one. I don’t see the need to buy new rails, especially if I keep the setup as it is. The only disappointment I have is really with myself for not thinking to ensure the dust box was big enough for my router. I chose to keep using my 3 ¼ Hp Triton router. It has an integral lift micro adjustment and has been great. The router is way too big for the box. I can barely get my hands inside and have to pull it out to adjust it. That said, the dust box is well worth the money with the right router/lift mechanism. It has dual sized ports for the fence dust collection and from the box, adjustable draft vent and a magnetic door latch, as well as a split port for running the router power cable to the switch. Well thought out and well executed! Oh well, now I know what to ask for for Christmas! The SSRT fits standard router table inserts like the Kreg phenolic I’ve used for years. Summary I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this table to my best friend!
  31. 1 point
    I'm new to woodworking so naturally the first project I'm doing are picture frames. I would love to see some of your picture frames. Please post below. Thanks everyone. And yes absolutely critique me. Cant get better without help. Still working on them but would love some feedback.
  32. 1 point
    Everyone comes tomorrow and tonight have to clean and prep the house so i really only got it done just in time. Our gift day is Sunday. Thanks!
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    What are you building out of that gorgeous stock? As for the blades you can't go wrong with both. Would love to hear from your experience cutting with both. The Resaw King with it's carbide tipped blade is a great all around blade that stays sharp forever. But those woodslicers impressed the heck out of me. I'll tell you Paul, I don't think you are the only one, I do prefer to have the Woodslicer on the saw over the Resaw King. That blade is impressive and I like the fact that it's only 1/2" instead of 3/4". That makes it more versatile, just doesn't stay sharp. I always have 1 or 2 on hand now. I'll have to do that, I can't say I get a bad cut now with the Resaw King, it's just not as nice as the Woodslicer. Did you have trouble in the past with the Resaw King breaking?
  35. 1 point
    I bet you finish them before I finish my kayak LOL
  36. 1 point
    Yeah @pkinneb it seems like a long time ago but sometimes it feels like yesterday, still waiting to hear from @K Cooper I think he’s the record holder here.
  37. 1 point
    I 2nd that I use mine fairly often as well!
  38. 1 point
    I tend to agree with one exception if you have a move in your future and plan to take the Dust Collection system with you. Over the 14 ish years I have had my system, smooth dust collection pipe from Oneida, I have changed a couple things and while a bit of a pain to remove the foil tape and screws it wasn't that big of deal and certainly worth the cost savings to me. Having said that if I ever planned on moving and taking it with me I would definitely go the Nordfab route. My pipes run in the attic so they are there to stay
  39. 1 point
    No one else comes to mind except maybe Chet and I think he is eons behind you and Richard? But us Millennials still have the utmost respect for you guys.
  40. 1 point
    Winner was John Frederickson of California.. Coop worked hard at trying to bribe the judges though!
  41. 1 point
    So I was able to get the panels completed today. I batched all the parts out and after a couple of football games worth of work they were complete First I had to cut about 300 individual parts. Its important to use a guide as you want the pieces square. Here is the stack early on Then I set up the kumiko blocks in my moxon vice and prepared for the fist cuts which are also the most difficult with this pattern. You have to split the angle 1/3 and 2/3rds The main thing is to keep the chisel sharp and tight against the guide blocks You're looking for something like this Rinse and repeat several hundred times (ea panel has 64 pieces with a total of 224 chisel cuts) and you're done. Once they are complete I sand both sides on a piece of sand paper on the bench. After a couple of football games you have this Next up design the box and prep the stock for those. Good thing there is a game tomorrow
  42. 1 point
    I don't remember when we did this job, but I just downloaded some pictures these were taken with out of a Casio camera I found buried in the truck. This is a Bad Ass machine. The electro-magnetic base is Strong. The machine weighs about 85 pounds. First, we drilled some holes in a foot square 3/4" steel plate. Those holes were used to bolt the plate to the two out of three holes, on each side of the tractor, where the front end loader bolts to the engine block. Each side originally had two 5/8" threaded holes, and one 3/4" at the top of the row of three holes. The left side had the top, large hole severely screwed up, and one of the 5/8" holes. I was able to get the two 5/8" holes on the left side good enough to bolt the plate to it. On the right side, I was able to get some 7/8" threads in the top hole, and the bottom 5/8" hole rethreaded good enough to hold the plate. I had thought that we would need to rig up an engine lift to get the magnetic drill press in place, but it turned out not to be too bad for both of us to man handle it close enough, and then there is an adjustment that lets you slide around the drill press part, after the magnet is engaged. Pictures show it in place, on the left side, redrilling the top hole out to 7/8", so we could thread that one up to 1". second picture shows the 1" threaded hole, and yes, it was a bitch to cut, but more on that when we get back. More story to come, but we have to go.....later.
  43. 1 point
    I decided to hold off on creating a thread here until both videos were public just so the entire project is in one post.. First sponsored video! Thanks to Glacier Hardwoods! Joinery is mostly Domino but, there is a couple pocket screws as well. Poor planning on my part left me with a couple locations that I couldn't get the Domino into.
  44. 1 point
    I've used a couple of the "skylight" panels that are 1'x4'. They diffuse the light much better than the other fixtures, and they're only about 3/4" thick. These are intended to be surface mounted, so they actually have trim around the edge. The negatives are that they're more expensive, and they're hard wired. If I was starting my lighting over, I'd probably just use a few more of those for the even light through the shop. That's one on the ceiling over my work bench.
  45. 1 point
    I realized i never posed the final pictures with finish applied. I guess I was hoping I'd get the tail vise and twin turbo vise installed but that isn't going to happen for a while. The poor empty end cap for the tail vise. Hopefully someday soon i'll fill this with hardware but it's not a priority. The gap stop had some awesome pitch pockets in it that left an awesome effect. I'll never get seen wedged between the 2 slabs but i guess it's comforting to know it's there. The back face of the bench had some nice figure in the grain. It makes a nice effect walking by the bench. I made sure to put the 2 flashy faces to the front and back as i have access to all 4 sides of the bench. The 2 stars of the show. The leg vise and the sliding deadman. I went with the live edge theme for the deadman which i give credit to @bleedinblue for giving me the idea. Thanks I like it. For the live edge of the walnut deadman I did an edge treatment that I first saw Matt Cremona do on JR's bed. I really liked the effect because it reminded me of bocotte. Last touches are holes in the deadman, which I'll drill as needed. and hold fast holes in the top. Also will drill as needed. Since taking these pictures i have drilled 2 holes in the top for my pane stop from my previous bench. So not 100% done year but for all intents and purposes this is substantially complete. I've been using the leg vise on the Dining Table build for my sister and i have to say it's a real luxury. It's no better than my budget twin screw but it's a lot faster and easier to use. Ok maybe it does hold a bit better but only because i can get more leverage and i never managed to get the budget twin screw jaws to stay parallel.
  46. 1 point
    I wouldn't say doing it wrong. I routinely forget to wax my hand planes and then when i remember i fly across the room because it cuts that much easier.
  47. 1 point
    I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug*
  48. 1 point
    Relative dimensioning is the key. Make the box, then make the drawer to fit the hole. Then make the front to fit the drawer. Every time I try to cut every piece to size before putting anything together, I always seem to screw something up. So I just do it in stages.
  49. 1 point
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  50. 1 point
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual