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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/28/19 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    I want to make sure the seats end up being roughly the same so I took the template for the guild rocker seat and glued it to a board. I'll cut out the open side and use that as a template when I need to create the carved area on the seats. I also trimmed the bottom side ( the solid paper side) to the desired edge of the seat. This will allow me to get each seat close to identical. Well close enough. Each one of these chairs is going to be slightly different there is just no way around that. After that I finished my leg routing jig. I attached the clamps to the jig and added some adhesive sand paper to make sure that the leg blank wouldn't move. After I got everything set up I gave it a test run. I managed to make 2 near identical legs both of which were perfectly square in the joinery section. The trial did show me a few places where the jig could be improved. The ends of the back rest area end up being too far from the clamp and the router bit causes a bit of deflection in the wood. It's not a lot but it's enough that it makes the routing operation sketchy and caused some issues with cut quality. In the picture of the jig above I'm going to add another block and clamp to the side closest the camera. Once i get everything ironed out I'll give some more details on the jigs in use. The next major item to make is the bent lamination jig for the back rest. I thought about making the back rest bend in 2 different planes so it would support the lumbar and also cup the back, but just thinking about it gave me nightmares so i figured doing it would be even worse. So i abandoned that. I printed the back rest template from the guild dining chair plans and decided to stick with curves only in 1 plane. I'm making the bending form a bit different from other methods I've used. I read an article from FWW about making bending forms and from it i realized there is a better way than using solid lamination of plywood. The form started like all other forms I put the paper template on the front, cut out the negative shape on the band saw, then cleaned back to the lines. The change or difference is that instead of building up each layer with solid plywood, I glued pieces of wood as braces in between. The wood I ended up using is cedar scraps, I planed them clean to an even 1/2" and used 2 glued together to add a 1" space between each piece of plywood. This allows me to save a TON of plywood. Not only was I able to make the bending form more stable and stronger this way but it allowed me to use scraps I needed to dispose of, and it made it lighter. My form needs to be 8" wide and being as large as it was using solid ply it would have weighed far too much. Here is a shot of the bending form that shows the structure well. Another trick from the article is to use flexible cauls that get glued together with epoxy. These cauls will bridge any gaps that may be created due to imperfect shaping. Knowing what I know now and how well these cauls will bridge the gaps I'd have gone with 3 rows of bracing instead of 4 to save even more weight. I could have gone thicker with them as well and eliminated a row of plywood. Beings that the bendable cauls need to be glued together I'd need to simulate a true run of the form. So i planed done some redwood scraps that were destined for the fire pit to act as filler and simulate a back rest. If i didn't add material inside the cauls would glue them selves to a shape that wouldn't work once you added the laminations for the back rest into the form. This wood won't be wasted as I'll do a trial run with the redwood to see how the bending form works. I will also use it to figure out how I'm goign to cut the negative space out of each back rest. To create the cauls I used 1/8" mdf or hardboard, I'm not sure the difference between them, but it's a flexible material. I spread epoxy on the material and in hindsight may have needed to add more than I did. The surface absorbed some of the epoxy and I'm left wondering if I got a good bond. I'll find out tonight when I strip the form. My bending form did have some gaps in it. In the picture below I added some cork in areas where the hardboard was unsupported in my dry run. I also added some blue tape towards the ends where again things weren't clamping as well as they should. This is where it sits. I'm waiting at least 24 hours for the epoxy to cure. I should get a hardener that cures faster but that would reduce my open/working time. I expect it's going to take me 2-3 weeks just to cut the laminations, sand them to thickness, bend them, and then clean up the finished product. My goal thickness is 1/2" for the backrest.
  2. 5 points
    Even a ole country boy needs to get a few brownie points with the little woman. I can get two ataboys today and by tomorrow they are gone.
  3. 5 points
    @Bmac I worked on these yesterday and will all day today. Things are happening!
  4. 4 points
    At this stage of the game I really don't need much but did get a few goodies. New tape measures in lime green becuase I keep misplacing them. Some square drive screw drivers, been using the #2 on the fabric frames in the theater and these handles rock! A live wire tester well just becuase its cool LOL and finally some medical super glue
  5. 4 points
    Grand daughter went to visit today. Guess I'll work in the shop. How come everything you take off a shelf don't fit back on the shelf.
  6. 4 points
    The wife mentioned she wanted a candle holder. I thought "No sweat, I can make something like that piece of cake." Then I came up with this design. "How hard could it be?" Turns out very hard. For such a small project this took me more hours than I am willing to admit.
  7. 3 points
    The objective; That's all I have to go off, no plans or dimensions, so I'm going to try a deconstruct the design, develop the joinery and figure out the dimensions. Input is welcome! I'm not trying to make an exact duplicate, but I want to develop something very similar. So here are my initial ideas based off the many Maloof chairs I've made. ***Joinery- starting with the front leg, he has the classic Maloof joint at the seat leg interface. I'm sure he used a 1/2" dowel for the arm to leg joint. All of these are very standard in his chairs. Moving to the second joint on the arm, I'm sure the joint is a butt joint with screw reinforcement, again standard design for him. All of these I'm very familiar with. The leg to the backrest is likely a dowel supported joint, This is what he uses for his feet on his tables and music stand. Here is where I'll deviate slightly, I'll switch to stacked dominos for this joint. Again I'm familiar with this change as I've done it before with the tables and music stands I've made. Now to the seat frame. I've not done a Maloof chair build with a frame before, all the ones I've done have been solid sculpted seats. What I've seen him do on other chairs is a bridle joint for the front joint in the seat frame. In studying this photo and increasing the size it does not look like he used a bridle joint here, It's likely a dowel supported joint. I think switching to stacked dominos would work just fine here and simplify the construction. The back seat frame support will receive the same domino supported joint, looks like he used a dowel joint here. Finally on the the backrest. I'm thinking he has 3 cross pieces, one at the bottom, one in the middle and then the headrest. I can see he used screws for the headrest, but I do not see signs of screws for the other support pieces. I'm assuming those were dowel supported. So I'll try to stay faithful and just switch out the dowels for dominos and use screws for the headrest. ***Dimensions- I have some plans of other lounge chair designs and I have some industry averages. I think I can get in the ball park here. Angle of seat in relation to the floor, angle of seat to backrest, and height of seat in the front are some critical dimensions. Interestingly if you make all the legs on the upper end of the standards length wise, you can always shorten them. Shortening certain legs will also affect some of the angles. The only angle/dimension that is set is the seat to backrest angle, all the others can be manipulated. ***Patterns, this is were I hope to start this week. The front leg design is pretty identical to the rocker, just needs to be longer. Arm rest will likely be very similar to the rocker also. To me the main patterns that are different and I need to develop are the backrest supports and the side seat frame/back leg. ***Upholstery- I have yet to talk to my guy, but I think there are 3 "panels" of upholstery in this piece, the seat and 2 in the backrest. I'm assuming my supports will frame out those panels and also assuming Wood strips and possibly corner supports will be needed for the upholstery. I'll confirm or correct my assumptions after I speak with the upholstery guy. So I'm totally open to suggestions and ideas. Maybe you think I'm on the right track or maybe you think I'm totally off base, but I'd love to hear your thoughts. This is very much a stretch for me but I'm excited to branch out with a new challenge. Thanks for looking!
  8. 3 points
    Guess I'll start the mirror. Trying to salvage an old dresser mirror from the trash...
  9. 3 points
    Coop, my wife has got tired of shoveling sawdust on her days off. So I put my Houston Thinking Hat on and came up with a blower for my mill.
  10. 3 points
    be patient Coop, he just planted the seed yesterday
  11. 3 points
    If you take something apart and put it back together enough times you will have parts for 2 of them.
  12. 3 points
    My generous and understanding wife got me some Lie-Nielson bevel edged socket chisels. One grandkid gave me a book about making wooden puzzles and the other gave me a much needed box of white chalk and a holder for marking out rough cuts.
  13. 3 points
    So I’ve spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to make a jig for routing a groove in a curved piece. Hadn’t done that before, and still haven’t come across the ideal solution. Spent a lot of time on that today as well as making a new fence for my roto to make the stringing grooves on the door panel. i did manage all the beading on the rails and stiles for door. I used a scratch stock and did the curved piece by setting the scratcher on the second side, in other words where it is tapered. Scratch stock works well, it’s just slow. i used chalk to show where the bead was down as far as it needed to go, rather than a white pencil. It worked probably better than white pencil as it’s a wide mark tha you can see gradually disappearing. Where to curve meets the straight part I used a knife, a small chisel and patience to make them shake hands in a friendly manner
  14. 3 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  15. 2 points
    Here is another view. from https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/06/12/new-exhibit-features-never-seen-before-works-by-sam-maloof It indicates that the chair was made specifically for an exhibit so there may need to be some adjustments made. The only reason i say that is, even with my youthful spry abilities, that chair looks difficult to extricate myself from. My guess is the top of the upholstery is 16" from the ground with the wood frame at 15" but you indicate you have a good idea for that. The only other thing that I see is if it's a chair with out an ottoman the seat depth looks like it'd cause a persons legs to rest against the front frame of the chair and could cause circulation problems to the feet. I don't have a ton of experience with these chairs so maybe it's ok.
  16. 2 points
    I love the look of sapele and mostly enjoy working with it. Finishing it to a smooth, flat surface is a little problematic as it’s a bit open grained. But with enough elbow grease it looks fantastic. This piece I used that Aqua Coat stuff and it turned out nice. Here it still needs another coat... And like “mahogany” it goes really well with maple
  17. 2 points
    Next bed or next kid? I like the bed, BTW.
  18. 2 points
    Only a few of us watched under 12 channels and black and white..
  19. 2 points
    One of the older ladies in our office put up a notice in the break room “ clean up after yourself as Hazel doesn’t work here”. No one knew what she was talking about.
  20. 2 points
    Retirement is a strange occupation. I went from driving all over this country for more years than anyone should, and I found that it took me more than three years to drive into town. I did nothing but work in my tiny shop, and play gardener. I never went off my little one acre. I still haven't found that idenitity/purpose yet. It like "closure" I'm not sure I want it.
  21. 2 points
    When can I expect the lumber?
  22. 2 points
    Honestly since I'm home all the time my wife calls me Hazel....
  23. 2 points
    Whenever my wife asks I always start by explaining the engineering and design phase that the project will require then that I don't have anything like the lumber on hand and will certainly need to acquire at least a jointer and planner, to fulfill the request and these will require the electrician again. Oddly, she hasn't asked for anything in a while.
  24. 2 points
    If you really want to learn about woodworking. This is the place to get info. No one here will steer you wrong. We have the best bunch of info you'll find anywhere on a computer.
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    I had a few woodworking gifts. My parents wanted to know what they could get me that I would actually use. I pointed them towards an earlex hvlp system, since it seemed to match my needs pretty well. The gift that surprised me was from my in laws, and it was a Gramercy bow saw. I had asked for the hardware kit to make one a while ago (last Christmas maybe?) but the saw itself was quite a bit more. My wife helped pick it out. I haven't gotten out to the shop since Christmas, but it'll be getting a spot in the tool cabinet soon. Otherwise, my wife put a few other items in my stocking like the LV plug cutters, a ruler for setting drill collar depth, and a clamp for holding a light to a power tool.
  27. 1 point
    Sawstop Inline Router Table My wonderful wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday next week so I obliged with a list. She recognized the Sawstop name and ordered the 27” x 16” inline router table and dust box to replace my shop built router table I’ve been using for years. It arrived yesterday, so you know where I’ve been today. I’ll bore you with a little of my background. I’m retired from 30+ years in the woodworking machinery business, starting with the types of tools all of us here are familiar with - upscale hobbyist to small production shop woodworking stuff. From there I moved on to heavy industrial production machinery and finally to specializing in industrial CNC equipment before retiring a few years ago. I’ve also been a lifelong hobbyist. With that out of the way… Impressions I’ve said it here and other places, but I’ll say it again. I’ve never, ever seen a company do a better job of making it as easy as possible for a consumer to understand and assemble their product than Sawstop. Any machine, any level, and I’ve probably assembled many hundreds. From packaging to manuals, they do it right. Here’s an example. Four of the five boxes inside the large (very heavy duty) shipping box contained a note indicating that the manual was in a separate box. The manual was in the fifth box with the cast iron router table.The manual is 62 pages of photos with detailed explanations of what hardware to use where. Each bag was labelled with the assembly it went to. When I unpacked the router table itself I noticed what looked like a scratch in the cast iron. Sure enough, it was. Then I noticed that there was an identical scratch on the opposite edge - for lining up the fence to the center of the bit. Devil in the details. This thing is really, really solid, really well built, end to end. The surface is flat using a Starrett 36” straightedge. I could not see light below the edge. The fence body is a very heavy anodized extrusion with integral dust port, side to side adjustment and T-slots for accessories. They include (hard to describe) T-slot spacer shims that let you use the fence like a jointer by offsetting the right and left fence faces. The fence itself is perfect for a table saw installation. On and off takes seconds, 90 degrees square to the table with a Starrett combination square. The extrusion looks almost identical to the JessEm Mast-R-Fence II extrusion other than the anodizing color. It differs in the way the fence faces slide side to side in T-tracks on the Sawstop vs in slots in the extrusion itself on the JessEm. It also mounts directly to the table rather to the side tracks on the JessEm. The router mount plate has 10 (10!) leveling bolts with lock nuts for precisely adjusting it to the table surface. The legs seem significantly beefier than the legs that came with the saw. The leg mounting brackets definitely are. It includes a paddle switch that the router plugs into, as well as holders for the tools like insert ring wrenches, height adjustment tool, etc. Installation It took more time to remove the old router table than to install the new one. It took about 2 hours to assemble and install the new table. That included disconnecting the outfeed table, cleanup, etc. I installed the Sawstop router table (SSRT) on the right end of my Sawstop PCS, 36”. I did not install it in any of the 3 suggested ways covered in the manual. The 3 ways listed in the manual are to the left of the blade, to the right of the blade with an optional 10” cast iron insert or with a shop made spacer insert like the laminate covered one shipped with the saw. I chose to instead mount it directly to the right extension wing with no insert. I did it because the SSRT is just long enough (16”) to still support the fence at its full 36” width, AND it lets me avoid the dust pipe that drops at that exact 36” width (see photo) for the big majority of the work I do with the router table. I’m going to give this a shot and if I don’t like it I’ll add the insert back in. I got my saw before Sawstop took on the router table line, so the rails were never intended to support them. Because of this, Sawstop offers new rails that are drilled and countersunk for the SSRT and notched for the miter slots in the SSRT. My rails don’t line up. In the photos you can see that I notched my rails for my old table and that’s what I plan to do for the new one. I don’t see the need to buy new rails, especially if I keep the setup as it is. The only disappointment I have is really with myself for not thinking to ensure the dust box was big enough for my router. I chose to keep using my 3 ¼ Hp Triton router. It has an integral lift micro adjustment and has been great. The router is way too big for the box. I can barely get my hands inside and have to pull it out to adjust it. That said, the dust box is well worth the money with the right router/lift mechanism. It has dual sized ports for the fence dust collection and from the box, adjustable draft vent and a magnetic door latch, as well as a split port for running the router power cable to the switch. Well thought out and well executed! Oh well, now I know what to ask for for Christmas! The SSRT fits standard router table inserts like the Kreg phenolic I’ve used for years. Summary I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this table to my best friend!
  28. 1 point
    Trying to organize and compress the shop. Funny how you have too much, then nothing... Take awhile but it's a start....
  29. 1 point
    I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  30. 1 point
    A 12" Northfield jointer. This belongs to my neighbor. This tool has been completely rebuilt and is in new working order. Including a spiral head.They go north in the summer and I look after their house. I did not ask for a fee. I'm glad to help. But I did ask for access to the benevolent beast on the rare occasion I need more than my 8" jointer. Also I asked for access to the table saw. It has a slider on it with very large crosscut capacity. My guess is that This access will be occasional. But it is comforting to know access is there. Does anyone have experience with this brand?
  31. 1 point
    I bought a container at Dollar General for $6.25. It holds 50 clamps and is good for storage. I need two more...I get tired of clamping ,unclamping clamps . Better in a container. My hand have become weaker with age. 2" getting harder to squeeze..
  32. 1 point
    I think I bought 100 at the time and had a few Jorgensens, Irwins, etc around from pawn shop finds..Very, very useful for this kind of work...
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Guts looks like a kit. A USB upgrade is definitely in order.
  35. 1 point
    I get bored with shop projects especially when I'm unsure of what I want. I think I'll try something simple for the grand daughter and something complicated I can get started on.
  36. 1 point
    I retired two years ago by choice and did not suffer any retirement transition issues. I have been very pleased spending time getting my shop setup, woodworking, traveling, cooking BBQ, and playing video games. I have no idea how I had time to go to a job every day for 30+ years. You have built some major projects, very nicely done. Your shop projects are looking great as well.
  37. 1 point
    You're lucky, you had TV. I had radio, there was no commercially available TV when I was a young'un. My mind turned out to be better and more imaginative than anything TV ever shared with the world.
  38. 1 point
    And that makes one helluva difference.
  39. 1 point
    Kids today say how did you live back then with no cell phone, 500 channels or online shopping... I tell them I had a REAL life...this were less complicated then....
  40. 1 point
    No personal experience to share, but Northfield machines have an abundance of one thing missing from much of the market today. MASS.
  41. 1 point
    I get it.... I look at a RAS the way woodworkers look at a big jointer..
  42. 1 point
    DHL, TNT, Royal Mail all similarly priced and have track and trace. As you are shipping from the UK then one of those is the best place to start.
  43. 1 point
    Since I've been forced into retirement nobody in the family figured I needed anymore tools. But I've been buying jorgensen gear clamps over the holidays as there on sale for $16...merry Christmas to self...
  44. 1 point
    Thanks. My sister doesn't follow fads or trends much she wanted something nice and timeless. These fads end up just looking dated in short time. They were very excited and happy. The first comment was "this is goign to make the kitchen FAR more useful".
  45. 1 point
    Trouble is that there are so many more way to do something wrong than to do something right.
  46. 1 point
    I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug*
  47. 1 point
    Thé partitions are alder and sapele, just jointed and glued Some 3/4” material together. Ran them through the “real” bandsaw to resaw a little thicker than the 1/4” final thickness, then ran it through the planer to the finished thickness of 1/4”. You can see the feet in the upper left corner of this picture. They’re color-coded, and will be mitered and splined for final assembly, which I’ll do when I’m closer to needing them. The planer took a chunk out of the end of one board. That’s by not paying attention to grain direction, which is more important on thin stuff than any other time.
  48. 1 point
    I like to use hardwood or plywood for sled fences as i feel they have better rigidity performance compared to MDF. They also will take a screw and not break apart like yours did. Your fence looks nice and fancy though. Mine is ugly enough to work as a halloween prop.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    And laid into a piece of oak scrap. Might make a good coaster Not ready for prime time but decent for a first attempt.