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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/10/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    With the recent completion of the Guild miter station build, I'm stoked about the organization, cleanliness and general productivity of my shop. I sent emails out to my favorite woodworking companies - those with whom I've spent a good deal of money patronizing over the years. A small handful sent back meaningful (not from automated systems) replies. This post is a shout out to Whiteside - who graciously sent me a banner to hang in my new shop and a T-shirt in my size. Whiteside makes absolutely fantastic router bits and I was really pleased to see them so responsive to the me / part of the microcosm that uses their products. General comments on the Guild build This is my first time making actual cabinets and it was a huge confidence builder. I will definitely be doing more. I deleted part of the original plans as I had limited space. Still worked out really nicely. Took 5 sheets of plywood if you're trying to accomplish something similar. I used the table saw entirely to make the cabinet doors and would encourage all to do so - the method employed in the Guild build uses the Domino leaves "gaps" in the doors - the table saw method is easy and leaves no gaps. I left space between the signs, cabinets, etc for a set of upper cabinets to be built soon. Everything was finished with satin Arm-R-Seal Other than that, AMA (ask me anything)
  2. 3 points
    This is goign to be a longer post. Hopefully not text but mostly images. I cut out and cleaned up the stretcher exactly the same way I did the legs. There was more alternating grain on this piece so there is some tear-out on the bottom side that I didn't want to chase for fear that it'd cause the strait line on the bottom to look bent slightly. Next was clean up the legs. I routed a chamfer around the entire piece which had some portions that the bit couldn't quite reach. I handled those with a chisel. Due to using a chisel there was some backward grain that gave me issues. Below shows the area i couldn't reach with the router. I developed a technique that i want to share. Because of the reversed grain tearout with the chisle was bad. To combat this I used the chisel to sever the long grains with the aim to reduce the tear out. I found holding the chisel at an angle to match the 45 degreee and doing paring slices close together worked well. The angle was a compound angle seen below. in the short 1/2" i made probably 10 slices. I then angled the chisel just right to get the 45 degree chamfer to the face. The stroke was not along the edge but close to a slice cut where i moved the chisel strait up and down in the picture above not diagonally. After a couple clean up strokes and a bit of fiddling I got decent results. I did the same technique on the other side. The above is a fairly close picture so it doesn't look perfect but after a step back it looks really good in my biased opinion. After sanding it looks even better. It took me about 5 practice tries to get some what decent at this. I'll include a picture of my first attempt. It didn't turn out well. Luckily that is on the inside bottom so it'll be covered by the stretcher shoulder mostly. Following leg cleanup was gettting the tapes cut on the bench legs. I made 1 leg the way i wanted it and used it as a template to mark out all the other legs. Used the bandsaw to cut the tapers. The pile of off cuts can be seen on the floor to the left. They make good shims but my shim stack is full so these went to the garbage. The rough bandsaw cuts were cleaned on the jointer first, then will be followed by a smoothing plane after joinery is cut. Below are the legs standing next to something strait so you can see the subtle angles. All of the legs came out pretty close to the same. I took a picture with some raking light to highlight any differences. All in all they are more than close enough that no one will be able to spot the difference short of using a ruler.
  3. 3 points
    I realized i never posed the final pictures with finish applied. I guess I was hoping I'd get the tail vise and twin turbo vise installed but that isn't going to happen for a while. The poor empty end cap for the tail vise. Hopefully someday soon i'll fill this with hardware but it's not a priority. The gap stop had some awesome pitch pockets in it that left an awesome effect. I'll never get seen wedged between the 2 slabs but i guess it's comforting to know it's there. The back face of the bench had some nice figure in the grain. It makes a nice effect walking by the bench. I made sure to put the 2 flashy faces to the front and back as i have access to all 4 sides of the bench. The 2 stars of the show. The leg vise and the sliding deadman. I went with the live edge theme for the deadman which i give credit to @bleedinblue for giving me the idea. Thanks I like it. For the live edge of the walnut deadman I did an edge treatment that I first saw Matt Cremona do on JR's bed. I really liked the effect because it reminded me of bocotte. Last touches are holes in the deadman, which I'll drill as needed. and hold fast holes in the top. Also will drill as needed. Since taking these pictures i have drilled 2 holes in the top for my pane stop from my previous bench. So not 100% done year but for all intents and purposes this is substantially complete. I've been using the leg vise on the Dining Table build for my sister and i have to say it's a real luxury. It's no better than my budget twin screw but it's a lot faster and easier to use. Ok maybe it does hold a bit better but only because i can get more leverage and i never managed to get the budget twin screw jaws to stay parallel.
  4. 3 points
    I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug*
  5. 3 points
    B1rdhunter, I cut that special log today, I’m sure the Houston Boy don’t have any. Spalted Blackgum.......
  6. 3 points
    Okay, in a previous existence I was closely associated with a state taxing authority. Hopefully everyone doing this reads this. Despite some very misinformed opinions the states are getting massively better at detecting tax evasion. In a majority of states they are now using a very, very good software package called AllTax by Fast Enterprises. Old local built tax applications are ancient history, and with them their major inadequacies. In the 2000 we exchanged data with the IRS once a quarter, via magnetic tape. By 2008 the tape had morphed into a nightly file transfer. Depending on which options you chose with AllTax the data exchange is now instantaneous and constant. So the states see what the Feds see, and depending on state regulations it goes both ways. And the Feds have all the resources they want to go looking. States have entire teams of employees that spend all day looking for non-filers, including using Google to do it. I know they look for construction companies and compare their web statements with their annual returns. Same with home lodging like B&Bs, and I imagine now with AirB&B. When I left gov employment and went to furniture school I lived in a loft above the main residence. I booked it via the web. The owner told me a story of how the state showed up one day and asked him how the website showed No Vacancy, but his return showed no rental income. A settlement with penalties followed. I assume if a Deputy AG showed up at the door of AirB&B with a subpoena for transaction records your privacy would be the last thing AirB&B would be concerned with. I don't know for sure, but I think the principle probably applies to Paypal, et al. Low level stuff, especially cash, probably misses detection, for now. But if you are making a living at this, they will find you. Figure they routinely ask waiters why their tip income seems inconsistent with their hours and the restaurant's turnover. They do it all day, every day, and they work systematically at improving. And every year they all get together at a big conference and share what they're doing.
  7. 2 points
    A couple of weeks ago I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased a Nova Voyager drill press for a great discount. This replaced a Taiwanese model I had for 25 years. Yeah, I know this machine is OTT, but it is an amazing tool. For those who are not familiar with the Voyager, it is a computerised, variable speed drill press with a 2 hp direct drive motor (240v). I have already used it to determine the ideal speed for a selection of forstner bits, and then drill to a preset depth, and stop automatically at that depth. Putting it together was .. uh ... a little scary. The motor section is extremely heavy, and I was concerned that I would drop it in my usual clumsy fashion. Anyway, it was put together without mishap. A Nova fence was one of the freebees thrown in ... Nova recommend that one not use a mobile base, however I need to do so since my machines occupy one side of a double garage, and some machines need to be mobile. The drill press is one. The ideal mobile base is as low to the floor as possible. A low centre of gravity is more stable, but also you do not want to raise the drill press up too much as the controls and computer screen may be moved out of your comfort zone. Steel mobile base on lockable wheels ... This post is more about the table I built for the drill press. Some may be able to use the ideas here. Most of the ideas are old hat, but there are a couple of novel ideas. My old drill press used nothing more exciting than a piece of plywood over the cast iron table. Somehow it was sufficient, although the work holding sucked ... and this is what I wanted to address here. Plus, the sacrificial board became chewed up and useless very quickly, and I had an idea to improve on this. I was not crazy about the cast iron table as a work surface. For a top I found in my local salvage yard a 18" x 25" UHMW slab 30mm (1-1/4") thick. This is about as perfect a table top as one could get - it is very resistant to damage, and yet will not damage wood placed on it. It planes without any tearout The first task was to dado in aluminium tracks for the fence and hold downs, and then to create a circular mortice for a sacrificial section ... Using a power router to waste UHMW is an interesting experience - lots of plastic string everywhere, and dust control was not working well. The circular recess was time consuming and finicky. The template began as a 2" forstner cut hole. This was then progressively widened to 4" using a rebate and a flush cut bit in the router table. Finally, the template was used with a pattern cutter to create the circular recess, above. The circular sacrificial disks are 1/2" thick MDF. I found it quicker to saw them fractionally oversize on the bandsaw, and then turn them on the lathe ... Here now is the basic table ... There is a cut out at the rear for the winder ... Now why did I choose a circular sacrificial section? I have seen many drill press tables using square sections. I cannot recall seeing any with round disks (unless it was dedicated to a sander, but that is not the same thing). The drill bit is not centred on the square. Instead, it is moved to the rear of the square. That way one can rotate the disk four times after it becomes holed. My objection to this design was that one only obtained four points, and as soon as one section became holed, it could no longer back up the drill. Now a circular disk, on the other hand, has an infinite number of positions (infinite until the circle is completed). Just rotate as much as you need. More work to make, but better in the long run. Here is the finished table ... The Nova fence came with those twisty levers. They are useless ... difficult to achieve the ideal tautness and hard to get to behind the fence. I replaced them with the long knobs. These needed to be cut down by 3/4" to avoid fowling the downfeed handles. The tracks not only hold the fence, but also Incra hold downs ... ... and even the Micro Jig clamps for taller boards ... I hope there is something you can use. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 2 points
    Ross, watch what you say on here. I understand that there is a lifetime exemption of $11.4 million before tax kicks in. May want to keep tabs on how much you gift!
  9. 2 points
    That's why I build stuff and give it away. Tax THAT, Mr. IRS!
  10. 2 points
    I always make sure to wax all my jigs as well as my router base regularly. It makes a large difference and helps keep accuracy up.
  11. 1 point
    That turned out great Drew!!
  12. 1 point
    Just chant, “Size Doesn’t Matter”, “Size Doesn’t Matter”!
  13. 1 point
    Trouble is that there are so many more way to do something wrong than to do something right.
  14. 1 point
    Please do. They won't name a street or a disease after me. So I'll take what I can get. So, since the legs were maybe scrap anyway, I took the piece with the worst bow and milled it staight taking off as little a possible and milled the rest to match. Ended up 1 1/16 x 1 7/16 instead of 1 1/4 x 1 1/2. Decided I could live with that. I am not happy about it but the pain will disappear with time.
  15. 1 point
    I wouldn't say doing it wrong. I routinely forget to wax my hand planes and then when i remember i fly across the room because it cuts that much easier.
  16. 1 point
    Here is a better shot.With the knobs. $1.08 ea. at Home depot. I like the idea of having floor space storage and not need any square feet to have it. Just re-using or sharing the same space with the drill press.
  17. 1 point
    Thank you. The finishing class gave me some information. But the class covered so many materials and methods that it did not delvee deep enough into any of them. Since the class I have been researching, practicing and actually took one local shellac class. I think that I have a pretty good handle on the process now. The only part of french polishing that I have not done is the first step using pumice to fill in the grain. Does not work well with the burl veneer. Have fun playing with the veneer.