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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/22/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    We are moving now. Here's my progress since last post.... This post I tackle the seat joints, pre-assembly shaping, and the seat glue up. Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. The front notches are only 1/4" deep, I set up the blade and the fences so the cut is done without needing any adjustments. Also I just leave on my standard blade and nibble away, quicker than setting up the dado stack; Against the Incra stop; Against the tablesaw fence; Cut is a little rough at first; Router plane makes quick work of this and gives me a perfectly flat surface. I would have used the router plane with the dado stack anyway, another reason I just use a standard blade for this notch. Once you have your notches it's time to route the notch to develop the classic Maloof joint outline. I find using the handheld router here a mistake waiting to happen. To me the router table with the starter pin in place gives me much more control; Few minutes later, looking good. With the maple I did get some burning, esp with the end grain. I don't think there is any avoiding this and the joint has a ton of gluing surface anyway; Now before I glue up the seat I'm going to take a minute to do some pre-assembly shaping. This helps a ton developing the contour of the future seat. The outside boards are placed next to the already cut boards they will be glued to. I strike a line for depth and begin shaping. Here you can see my guide lines; One side done; other side done. Take notice how little dust is present on the table. This operation was completed by the Festool Ras and took about 7 minutes per board!!! Is it necessary to do this pre-assembly shaping. No, but it helps. I can hold my RAS at an angle that is not possible when the seat is assembled. If you look at this photo you can see the RAS disc would be digging into the adjacent board. To do this operation once the seat is assembled you need to hold your grinder in a much more awkward and less effective angle; Here's a view of board number 4, I'm pretty aggressive with my reduction. I was aware of my domino placement and we should be fine. Once the seat is completely shaped then I would expect this area to be slightly over 3/4" at it's thinnest; Finally, all glued up, I almost forgot you need to put the seat in this position so glue doesn't drip down into your joints. Positioned wrong at first but caught myself; So you can see from above I'm well on my way to shaping this seat, it's nothing more than blending together the boards now. Also with shaping I think the biggest thing I see people do that I don't think looks good is they scoop out on the perimeter at a harsh slope to their depth then they have a large flat area 1" below the top of the seat. I want my slope to be more gradual and much less "flat" area. This shape tend to cradle the legs and the backside and is much more comfortable. I'll elaborate on this in the next post as shaping the seat is on the agenda then. These operations took just 1 hr, so I'm sitting at 4.5hrs so far. Thanks for looking.
  2. 3 points
    Hi everyone. I have been turning for about 3 years. It’s a true love of mine. I recently had a son and so I have not been in the shop much lately. Glad to be on the site.
  3. 2 points
    As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started building chairs about 4 years ago and it has become an obsession to me. During that time period I've built approx 30 chairs. I've learned a lot along the way. For all those who have been wanting to start this build I'd encourage you to get started, it is a challenging but immensely satisfying build. Since this is a guild project I'll be following basically Marc's instructions and I'll point out where I've deviated from his directions. Marc does a great job with this build and with my first rocker I followed his directions down to the letter. Since then I've built chairs that were from plans supplied by Charles Brock and Scott Morrison. I've picked up a few tricks from these guys and my build will be an amalgamation of what I've learned from all three. The wood will be some gorgeous curly hard maple from @Spanky, I'm excited to use this lumber. I ordered two batches from him and one batch is a little more curly than the other, but I think it will all look great in the end. I know one thing, I'm saving every scrap of this during the build. Finally, in some of my past builds many of you have asked how long it takes me for one of these builds, I'll try my best to record the time I take to complete each step and try to keep a running tally as I go. I originally thought I'd start this around Thanksgiving, but I'm getting an earlier start. This build will be slow though, as it's prime surf fishing season here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I'll be playing hooky from work and from the shop to wet a line. Started the project by going thru the stock and began milling the parts. The seat is made from 5 pieces, approx 4" wide and 22" long. I had a board that was 11" wide, I was able to get two 22" lengths from this board and then I was able to get two 4.25" wide boards from each length and one 2.5" wide board from each length. I glued these two thinner boards together to make the center board for the seat; Back legs, always good to get these from the same board and I had nice grain to follow at the bottom of the leg, headrest will likely come from the piece above and the adder blocks will come from the waste between the legs; The front legs and the arms; The back slats, you need 7, I'll cut out 8; The plan calls for the width of the back slats is to be 1.5", I like my slats a little skinnier, these will be around 1.25", to me wide back slats look clunky. No matter how wide the main part of the back slat is, it still goes down to a 3/8th" tenon into the headrest, so thinner back slats are not weaker; This is my piece for the rocker laminations, unfortunately I found some bark inclusions as I was prepping. I should have enough usable material and I can work around those inclusions; Once stock selection was completed I moved on to the 5 seat boards. Glued up the 2 skinnier boards, jointed, planed and cut to length. Once that is completed I need to cut the 3 degree bevels for the coopered seat. These bevels will be on both sides of the middle board and on the out side of both boards that join with the middle board. You can see the direction of the bevels marked on the end of the boards in this pic; ****Real quick, a point about the coopered seat, I've done these seats both ways, coopered and just flat. I do like the coopered look a little better, but it's not extreme. The flat seat also looks pretty darn good. The coopered seat is definitely an option you can use or skip.**** Cutting the bevels, table saw set at 3 degrees: Bevels cut and marking out domino placement; This next step is really a little tricky, you need to domino into a beveled surface on some boards. Marc does a nice job of this and cuts all his slots with the 90 degree guide on the domino retracted, and the base of the domino sitting on his workbench. This results in a domino slot positioned toward the bottom of the boards and out of the way for future sculpturing, but is very difficult to do on boards 2 and 4, as the bevel orientation makes it difficult to get a correctly positioned domino slot and have it perpendicular with the face of the board. But his technique works great for the centerboard joints. Below is a pic of the domino cutting the slots into the centerboard, you put the domino on the bench and slightly tilt to the face is perpendicular the the joint, it's hard to see if it's tilted, but it is, the opposing surface for this joint is 90 degrees, so you simply put the domino on the bench and plunge into the 90 degree surface; Now with the other joints, the angle of the bevel prevents you for doing what I did above. So instead I set the angle of the domino to 87 degrees and cut the slot using the fence. To do this you need to put the fence on the bottom of the board as the reference for your plunge cut; Charles Brock handles cutting the dominos a little differently than Marc did, and I do a mix of their techniques. Now that the dominos slots are cut, I assemble and cut the seat to the correct width, you do this by cutting the excess equally for both outside boards. Once the width is correct I draw the outline for sculpting the seat; Pre-sculpting bandsaw reduction is next. I want to cut my reduction with the 90 degree side of boards 2 and 4 on the bandsaw table, in this pic you see which side is which; I then draw a line 1" from the bottom and develop a reduction cut line from that. I take a lot off, I want a deep seat; Here's the board on the bandsaw, 90 degree jointed surface on the table. You can also see from the above pic I've got plenty of stock over my domino slots. The center board is tricky, you have a bevel on both sides; You can mess with your bandsaw table and put it at 3 degrees, or you can just cut from both sides, as the cut angles toward the surface and the end result is just a ridge in the middle of the board where your 2 cuts intersect; Here are my 3 center boards with their pre-sculpting cuts, you can see in the center board I just have a little ridge, toward the front I've cut out an outline for the pommel; Next are the joints that are cut into the outside boards and some pre-sculpting shaping. It's easier to do some gross shaping while the boards are apart. Almost forgot, I'm about 3.5 hours into this.
  4. 2 points
    LED lights are sweet. For sure gonna add a few more.
  5. 2 points
    Sometimes you just have to pause for moment so you don't commit murder.
  6. 2 points
    I made a desk for our office a couple of years back. Alison had a friend over who enjoyed wine very, very much. She wanted to see what I was working on (the desk) so we went out to the shop. She walked over to the desk and set her wineglass down on it - ½ an hour after I'd put the final coat of Arm-R-Seal on it. I moved faster than I knew I was capable of. No harm to the finish. I handed it back to her and she turned around and set it on my tablesaw. We moved back into the house.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    I would use a spray bottle to raise the grain on the whole chair and then sand back smooth. After you wet the grain and sand smooth the wood shouldn't raise again. If you want to play it safe you could try wetting the surface again to see what happens. You could use alcohol with the dye, the fumes will be pretty strong. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner, it will probably work but the fumes would be deadly. Even coloring is going to be achieved by an even coat of a well dispersed dye. The dye mixes well in water and alcohol and not so well in oil solvents aka mineral spirits. If you want a perfect application I highly suggest to apply the dye via HVLP. Maple blotches in a not so attractive way sometimes so that is something that doesn't suit the best to wiping but isn't an issue spraying. I don't think you'd need something like a Fuji, a conversion gun would probably work great but I'd practice. Best part is you can practice with water and raise the grain at the same time. Also applying dye with the shellac is possible but it can be tricky as well. If you get a dry edge and overlap you could get dark lines etc. Drips while applying on the chair may be very hard to manage. That said Dave did a bang up job above.
  9. 1 point
    Making a step up on a tool is always inspiring. Sounds like your new saw puts a smile on your face. I started with a used contractor saw and went through the steps that a lot of folks do. I can say that even at the humble beginning, taking the time to setup my machines to their best potential paid big dividends and extended their useful life. There is some discussion here about aligning your saw on two planes. Aligning at 90 degrees and setting up your rip scale is great. Addressing alignment at other angles becomes important as soon as you want a bevel cut to match up to something else . . . or not burn or bind. There are a lot of great folks on here who will go the distance to help others. Lots of good historical threads on a lot of topics as well. It looks like you have a good start on your journey and woodworking forums are a good resource to use along the way. I am particularly enjoying your progress as I am trapped between shops right now for the first time in many years. From here: to here: I'm currently living vicariously through others
  10. 1 point
    Sharpening discussions are filled with answers, all (or none) of which may be right for you. I used to sharpen with oil stones, but recently purchased a double-sided diamond plate, 400 and 1200 grit. That, and a stick of mdf with polishing compound, are all I use, and my edges are quite satisfactory. I think the key is to get sharp, and STAY sharp. Don't let the edge dull so much that coarse grinding is necessary.
  11. 1 point
    I’ve used trans tint mixed it with dewaxed shellac but I have only used it on small table tops and small tables applied with a foam brush and I don’t know if that’s the best way or not but I did have great results
  12. 1 point
    There's a nice dent in the door to the shop from the corner of a small drawer that got launched by the table saw. I was cutting a bevel on one side of the drawer to fit the curved side of the case it goes in and had to put the fence on the left side of the blade so it was under the tilt of the blade. I must have started to pick it up before it completely cleared the blade because it went bu-bye. In my shop there are two workbenches behind the table saw. I found the drawer on the ground in between the two benches. The one right behind the saw has a plywood panel on the front to keep the dust from the saw out and it didn't go through there. So I was scratching my head for a while trying to figure out how it got where it ended up. Couldn't find any mark on the wall where it could have ricocheted. It was a couple days later before I noticed the dent in the door and in the door frame at about shoulder height where it hit and bounced off 180 degrees to end up where it did. On the bright side I had the foresight to make 21 of each size drawer when I only needed 20. A little bit more dramatic reason than I expected to need an extra...
  13. 1 point
    Man that's going to be beautiful @Bmac its going on my "someday" list for sure, any thoughts on finish, dye, colored shellac something to pop the awesome grain
  14. 1 point
    I'm going to avoid the cnc topic as that's something that's been talked about many times. As far as 3d printers go, up until very recently I was in the camp that had absolutely no interest. I couldn't see any need for it and figured they were too slow to bother with. I like to do power carving and like the Arbortech Turboplane. Anyone who has used one of these things knows they make an awful mess if you use them indoors. Arbortech is supposed to be coming out with dust collection for it, but they've opted to make their own grinder and the dust collection attachment only fits that grinder and you have to buy the whole kit. It's not going to be available in the US until sometime next year, which means at least part of the winter with weather that prevents doing anything outside. There's no official US pricing, but based on what I've seen in other countries it's going to be $250. I already have a nice Metabo grinder to use with it that I really like. So I did the math and decided that a $180 3d printer would pay for itself just by making a dust collection attachment for the grinder I already have. Plus I get a new tool in bargain. So for the past week I've been playing around with designing this attachment starting from getting a ring to fit the keyed slots in the mount for the guard on the grinder on up to a functioning item. The CAD part of it was frustrating at first, as I was dealing with trying to do things I've never done before in a program I'm not familiar with. But I enjoy the problem solving side of things. Getting to try something out and then be able to remake the whole part just by tweaking the design and hitting a button is really nice. I'm willing to try things out where I would have long since run out of time and patience with the whole thing if I had to fabricate it myself. At this point I have something that kinda works but I think it could be much better. I'm at a back to the drawing board point to try something completely different and that would never happen without the 3d printer to do all the actual fabricating. It does take a very long time to print the whole attachment, around 18 hours. But to be able to tweak the design in an hour or so and then press a button and the next day I just have the thing ready to try out is very nice. Making this thing isn't my goal. The goal is to use it to do the thing I actually want to do more easily. I have a cnc machine, but I don't use it to replace my power carving. The 3d printer isn't going to replace making anything out of wood. The computerized stuff just does some of things I don't want to do or am not able to do. Oh and as far as Marc goes, he already has 3d models of the furniture he makes. He could use a 3d printer to make dollhouse sized version of the things he builds for Ava with next to zero effort.
  15. 1 point
    I just spoke to the Customer Service Department at Kreg Tool. They were wonderful...! They admitted the problem with my router motors could indeed be the "slop" in the vertical adjustment mechanism, even though they had not had any previous complaints of similar problems. They are shipping out a new router lift today.
  16. 1 point
    Don’t use my jointer as a chair. Don't use any tool as a coaster. Don’t startle me. Don't startle me. Don’t startle me.
  17. 1 point
    Don't put anything on my cast iron surfaces including your sweaty mitts. When you are done with it put it away, that way you will know where it is when you need it next time.
  18. 1 point
    Pretty quick and simple to make. There's quite a few videos out there on making them, this is just my take..
  19. 1 point
    I saw these on an old episode of Woodsmith Shop and decided to make 4 to use when breaking down my stock with the jig saw. They raise up your stock to allow you to cut over the bench instead of having to have you cut hang off the edge and needing to hold the off cut with one hand to keep it from breaking away and splintering. For storage I put an eye screw in he end of each to hang from hooks over head when I done with them.
  20. 1 point
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!