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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  2. 2 points
    Here are all five holders with various blades. I even made drawer space for them next to my G&G square punches. I hope they get along OK; the drawer is officially a bit crowded. The black marks are where I had to grind the wood screws down since I only had 1" screws and the wood is 4/4 *shrug*
  3. 2 points
    I have one finger that points around the corner, I use that for the slash/angle.
  4. 1 point
    I have the last piece of butternut on the lathe, made two large bowl blanks by part it down the middle. Going to try to core one of them. Still have one big ambrosia left to work on. All my shelves are about full of rough turned bowls drying for the next step. Not sure where Id put any more.
  5. 1 point
    Even I don't take a Scrub plane iron that far. I do go through 8k though, since all the sharpening setup if right there to use. It will probably be used almost a whole day before it gets sharpened again though, and as the picture shows, it can be really dull, and still throw shavings two feet in the air. We use it to clean up old beams before putting a good edge into the wood. It's rarely used for flattening part of anything. A no.5 with an 8" radius camber usually gets the first call if a part of something needs to get run down before the no. 6's go to work. As another sharpening example, I really admire the understanding this guy has of what it takes, in amount of effort, to put into making something, but the sharpness, or lack thereof, of his handsaws, chisel, and even pencil lines, is like fingernails on a chalkboard to me.
  6. 1 point
    I don’t see the scrub as the same kind of tool. I am running it with huge camber and across the grain most often. It is half as wide and the camber means I may only be using half the width of the iron. I think mayb some don’t finely hone the scrub because it will still cut and push easily.
  7. 1 point
    Oh wait here's the pine, looks OK...
  8. 1 point
    I tried a few bits in pine and white oak. I figured the soft pine would be a bugger, but it's just Fluting and it worked well for my first attempt. The oak was a small, thin pièce but it worked well enough after I had a few strokes in. This seems easy enough so far. I forgot to take pics of the pine...
  9. 1 point
    This is supposed to look like Hack's holder, I need to make a custom blade for string grooves, which I can do with the LV blades, since they all have one end that's just straight.
  10. 1 point
    I found some O rings that fit between my ETS 150 sander and the Fein vac hose that I already had. Worked great that way for many years. Eventually I knuckled under and got a CT26. I had a bunch of onsite work to do and the HEPA filter plus the much lower noise made the choice easier. I reuse the bags a few times just to keep costs down.
  11. 1 point
    This is another reason to work safely, if you lose a finger you shop math goes all to heck.
  12. 1 point
    Love this comment: "Utility need not be ugly. "
  13. 1 point
    As stated, a drum sander faces some of the challenges of a planer. If the material is not supported so that it feeds along a consistent plane (the bed of the planer) you will get irregularities. One common one is a greater depth at the start and end of a piece of material (snipe). Like a planer's feed rollers, many drum sanders have only one pressure roller before and after the head roller. If the material is not supported the pressure rollers cannot prevent the material lifting into the drum prior to, or after, all three elements (infeed roller, drum and outfeed roller) are engaged. Imagine the material in this highly precise diagram feeding from left to right.
  14. 1 point
    I got the whole thing pretty well together. It took a little fiddling with the fit of the panels, and took a bit of creativity to get the homemade LED strip bulb mounted in such a way that would still allow me to retrofit a regular bulb later on if I so choose, but I got it! Disassembled it, put a ⅛” chamfer on all the edges, and then set out to figure out the solution to the last bit of this puzzle: how the heck to install that top panel. Due to the fact that I’ve kind of been winging it, the top ended up being a casualty. It’s a good bit too small. The square kumiko panel can’t work as is, so I am going to have to either remake it or modify it. It’s currently fudged into place on top of a larger kumiko frame that is large enough to rest on top of the rails. It’s not going anywhere right away, anyway. I’ve got to figure something out, though. So, for now, the project is on a hard pause. Since this project is for my own house, I have dry-assembled and pre-finished the entire lamp. For a lamp that will never be touched, the joinery alone is plenty to hold it together. I’m doing this because I’m uncertain about those legs. Are they too tall? I’m unsure. I’m also not even about to let that top be this lame when I call this one complete. So it gets to perch in the living room this week, looking finished but secretly still devoid of glue in the frame. I’ll mull it over.
  15. 1 point
    Well done, Colin! I appreciate the attitude, too. No reason to slack off, just because your materials aren't "premium".
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Dave let me show you some mtn red cedar logs 12 ft long.
  18. 1 point
    I agree that 3/4" material should be strong enough for a 12" overhang, especially with the corbels for added support. For appearance sake, I think you will still want to add the bands around the edge, to make it look thicker - this is the way laminate and solid surface countertops are usually built. Given that you still need something under there to make the connection to the cabinets, it might be just as simple to go with the plywood. And with the plywood, you wouldn't need the corbels, unless you want them for decoration. The corbels, while they might look nice, could be knee-knockers when you're sitting at the counter.