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I'm surprised that you would have ever even considered doing it the "easy" way . This one may even have enough natural bling to compete against applied bling in that oddly judged competition.

HIre some Crows. They'll chase the Hawk. We used to have a Crow that would come eat cat food out of the bowl with the cat. The Crow still comes around, but the old cat finally passed on, so we don't have cat food out any more. When the cat was around, and the bowl was empty, that Crow would sit on the edge of the shop roof, bend his head down over the edge at me, and call for me to go put some damn food in that bowl.

Yep haven’t used it yet but I have one. And now I doubt I will because I will just add it to the table saw. I think I will do the right side as well that way IF I ever decided I wanted to add the cross cut feature i could do so without having a router there.

What I need are lipped drawers.The question was whether I make them the easy way, which is by planting (glueing) on fronts. Or, whether I build them out of one piece, which is a lot more work as it requires creating half blind dovetails in a rebate. For those unfamiliar with lipped drawers .. This is the work of Christian Becksvoort ... At this point, I am going to do it the hard way and make half-blind sockets in a rebated front. This is similar to building a secret dovetail. To do this for all the drawers, the insides of the case at each end will require a spacer, essentially a 6mm panel glued to the insides. Each side will be half the thickness of the two middle drawer dividers (each 12mm). The centre dividers will be attached in a dado top and bottom. Regards from Perth Derek

Having completed the dovetailing of the case, the next step is to bevel the front face, and rebate the rear for a back panel. I had been considering a cove in place of a bevel, however when I mocked this up it came across as appearing too busy. So, back to the bevel. The angle for the bevel was finalised at 55 degrees. This enabled a 6mm (1/4") flat edge and a bevel that ran to roughly 4mm of the first dovetail. A 45 degree bevel would run into the dovetail. The lines for the bevel were marked and then roughed out on the table saw ... The table saw is a slider, and the rip fence was used to position spacers, before clamping a panel for cutting the bevel. The bevel was then finished with a hand plane ... This Jarrah is particularly interlocked but planes well with both a high cutting angle (the little HNT Gordon palm smoother) and a close set chipbreaker (the Veritas Custom #4). Once the bevels were completed, the rear rebate was ploughed ... Now the panels could be assembled into a case once again, and the work examined for tuning. Three of the bevels needed tuning. This ranged from a smidgeon here ... ... to a largish amount ... The case was dissembled and the bevelled edged planed down, re-assembled, checked, pulled apart again, planed ... The rebates at the rear turned out to not require any tuning, with the exception of one corner ... ... where I had obviously forgotten to plane! :\ That was easily rectified ( ... but the case had to be dissembled again). Finally, this is the rear of the case and the completed rebates ... This is a rebated corner ... Here are the front bevelled corners ... This illustrates by the mitres on the corners of the dovetailed case needed to be perfect. Any undercutting would show here. Next, the drawer dividers need to be done. I'll mention here - since I would appreciate the thoughts of others - that this area has been my biggest headache. The reason is that my niece would like the drawers to have the appearance of a single board. However, to achieve this, because of the bevels, is quite complicated. First of all, the table cannot have just two drawers. The width of the drawers will be greater than their depth, and this would likely lead to racking. Consequently, I plan to build three drawers, which will be more favourable for the width vs depth ratio.. Secondly, if the drawers have dividers between them, which they need (since I do not do runners), then there will be a gap between the drawer fronts (which will not flow uninterrupted). As I see it, there are two choices: the first is to build the drawers with planted fronts. This is not a method I like (but it may be expedient). The second option is to set the dovetailed drawers sides back (recess them) to account for the internal drawer dividers. Thoughts? Regards from Perth Derek

So I guess that would be a group project then. Very well done to all involved.

There are few better compliments than Cherry and walnut, they go together like lamb and tuna fish or spaghetti and meatball. Their grain is similar, and the reds of the two wood tones tie each together nicely. In time they end up close in color with cherry goign towards medium brown and walnut lightening with time.

A like you attention to detail and the care your are taking at each step. I like it.

You definitely do not want it touching the blade or it will trip the safety cartridge. It doesn't need to be that close anyway, since the scale (which I never use) can be adjusted to the actual distance from the blade.

Consider this advise that you would get from a paid consultant. Mick was in the business of woodworking machines. He is an accomplished woodworker. Has an amazing shop. And teaches woodworking. On top of all that he is willing to offer wisdom to those of us on this forum.

There's a very common expression used around here - Buy once, cry once. So at the risk of opening a can of worms, I'm going to recommend that you look into jointer/planer combination machines in your search for those two pieces of equipment. Your budget seems more open than the average person setting up a shop, but your space is limited and you need to work into what you do have available. To that end, the combination J/P machines make a lot of sense. They take up roughly the same space as a jointer of the same capacity, but will give you more capacity for the money (particularly in jointer width) and more mass, which is important, since the two machines together weigh more than separates. The DeWalt 735 planer has been brought up here, and it is, IMO the best planer for the money on the market. The hidden cost of it, though, is the noise level. It screams. In a residential area you have to be careful about when you can use it. I had one for years before switching to a Hammer combo. I really don't have to worry much about neighbors complaining since we live outside the city. But I switched because the noise made me cranky. The downside to the combos is the switchover time from one to the other, but that can be mitigated greatly - I average about 45 seconds with my setup. A couple of brands I would recommend considering are SCM/Minimax and Hammer (made by Felder). Both make J/P combos in 12" and 16" widths, Hammer also offers a 10", but for the difference in price, why not go bigger or go homer? Both are great machines and the differences are a Coke vs Pepsi argument.

Now that’s an idea worth considering. Imagine me flying a drone. “Houston, we have a problem”!

Coop, maybe you need to buy a drone and just harass the hawks away... https://www.sunflowernsa.com/magazine/articles/default.aspx?ArticleID=3657 Just be sure its big enough!

Cooper’s? I’d hate like hell to know that’s what this thing is? How ironic!

I have a 25 caliber Grizzley single shot air rifle if you change your mind. I could use some warm weather and a little less snow.

And thank goodness he doesn’t normally do it the easy way, not that I could ever apply it. But then again, I learn things when he does it the easy way. Looking great Derek.

I just looked and it’s up to a $15,000 fine to shot a hawk and I have about $400 in this house including pole and winch. As much as I hate to say it, may the best bird win.

She’s still in progress. Just gotta paint some separate pieces. It’s made in two halves to be assembled around the pole. I plan on setting the pole next weekend. I was going to raise the rent to to the sq. ft. of each unit but I just discovered that there are a pair of big ass hawks building a nest down the street and they’re scoping out their new diner. This is one of the older houses.

Photo paper, off my printer. Figure shellac dries fast. Did a test run, no ink running

I don't know that it's that terrible, just make sure you are limiting your exposure to the dust or wearing a dust mask / respirator. Guys work with the stuff on construction sites all day long after all so I doubt it's goign to make you drop dead tomorrow. Also keep in mind with the saw stop the moisture in treated wood may trip the brake. Make sure that you account for that etc.

I emailed Incra once and the VP of sales responded well outside of working hours. I think they’ll stand behind it.

Your builds are giving me some great ideas. I'm going to be starting on some modernish style furniture in the near future and will be reference your build frequently. I Just want to say thanks ahead of time.

Went to Rickey’s today and got my cross tie lumber. I really didn’t need it but its a little curly. Only 125 bdft ..

I've been away from the workshop for a month, travelling around a few cities in Austria and Germany, as well as Prague. It was a good trip, but it's great to be home. The current build was on hold. This is the entry hall table my niece asked me to build ... ... and this is where we left off last time - ready to fit the first corner ... Past builds: Part 1: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece1.html Part 2: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2.html Today we shall put the complete case together. What I wish to focus on is the dovetailing. Not just any dovetailing, but mitred through dovetailing in unforgiving hardwood (here, Fiddleback Jarrah). Of all the commonly used dovetails, I consider the through dovetail more difficult than the half-blind dovetail. Why ... because two sides are exposed against the single face of the half-blind. In my opinion, by mitering the ends, the level of complexity is tripled .. at least. Not only are there three faces now, but each needs to be dimensioned perfectly, otherwise each is affected in turn. This is more difficult than a secret mitred dovetail, where mistakes may be hidden. I have posted before on building the mitred though dovetail, and it is not my intention to do this again. Instead, what I wish to show are the tuning tricks to get it right. This is the model of the tail- and pin boards … In a wide case, such as this, it is critical that the parts go together ideally off the saw or, at least, require minimal adjustment. The more adjustments one makes, the more the dovetails will look ragged. Tail boards are straightforward. Let’s consider this done. Once the transfer of tails to pins is completed, the vital area is sawing the vertical lines … well, perfectly vertical. I use blue tape in transferring the marks. The first saw cut is flat against the tape. Note that the harder the wood, the less compression there will be, and so the tail-pin fit needs to be spot on. Where you saw offers an opportunity for ensuring a good fit: if you hug the line (edge of the tape), you get a tight fit. If you encroach a smidgeon over the line, you loosen the fit slightly. Saw diagionally, using the vertical line as your target … Only then level the saw and complete the cut … I do not plan to discuss removing the waste. That was demonstrated in Part 2. So, the next important area is the mitre. These are scribed, and then I use a crosscut saw to remove the waste about 1mm above the line on both the tail- and pin boards … Now we are ready to test-fit the boards … Mmmm …. not a great fit … … even though the mitres at the sides are tight … The problem is that the mitres are fat, and the extra thickness is holding the boards apart … Even sawing to the lines here is likely to leave some fat, which is why it is a waste of energy to try and saw to the line in this instance. It needs to be pared away with a chisel, using a 45-degree fixture. As tempting and logical as it seems to pare straight down the guide … … what I experience is that the chisel will skip over the surface of the hard wood rather than digging in and cutting it away. What is more successful is to pare at an angle, and let the corner of the bevel catch the wood … This is what you are aiming for … Okay, we do this. And this is the result … Not bad. But not good enough. There is a slight gap at each side, quite fine, but evident close up. The source is traced to the mitre not being clean enough. It is like sharpening a blade – look for the light on the edge. If it is there, the blade is not sharp. If there is a slight amount of waste on the mitre, the case will not close up. To clear this, instead of a chisel – which is tricky to use for such a small amount – I choose to use a file. This file has the teeth on the sides ground off to create “safe” sides. Try again. The fit is now very good. I will stop there. So, this is the stage of the project: the case is completed. This is a dry fit … One end … The other … The waterfall can be seen, even without being smoothed and finished … Regards from Perth Derek