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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/07/19 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  2. 10 points
    Big update! I have opted to remodel my detached garage vs. building a standalone dedicated shop building. The mandated setbacks and peculiarities of my yard would make building the standalone shop problematic. This realization was a little bit of a bummer, but the CEO has been supportive of my efforts to shore up the detached garage. Here's where I am now: Electrical I needed to improve the power supply. The garage had one circuit run out to it from the main panel when we bought the place. This was clearly not going to cut it, so I hired an electrician to install a 60amp panel. Unfortunately, it did not work out logistically for me to rent a trencher, so I cut a trench for conduit from my house to the garage (close to 50'). Suffice as to say this was fairly unpleasant due to our lovely clay soils. I very literally was cutting and lifting out bricks of clay with a mattock, which then had to be knocked off the blade by hand each time. It took me three days (before work, after work time) to cut the trench. I made sure to lay a length of conduit in the trench for an ethernet cable. I work from home 4/5 of the time, as does my wife. My work typically requires me to be video conferences, and I tend to project my voice in those situations much to my wife's chagrin. Thus there is a possibility that I will set up my office out in the shop when it's put together, and our wifi as-is probably wouldn't work. My current home office is adjacent to the spot the electrical service leaves the house and travels to the garage. It will be straightforward to cut a hole in the exterior wall, run the ethernet cable, and install a jack with another line to our router inside the office. Next steps re: the electrical will be to surface mount EMT conduit and wire a few circuits. This will occur after I've finished insulating and covering the walls (see below). None of my tools are wired for 220v yet so I'm only going to run 20amp 110v circuits and receptacles for the time being. Building Envelope I wanted to make sure I didn't waste time and money insulating and air-sealing the space (or even worse, create a problem that shortens the building's remaining life vs. lengthening it). I spent a good amount of time on https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com and Finehomebuilding.com, asked some questions, and received excellent answers specific to the particulars of my building. I even wrote into the Fine Homebuilding podcast and they discussed my project in episode 192: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2019/08/09/podcast-192-garage-workshop-conversion-contractor-web-marketing-and-saying-no-to-clients The approach I settled on considering cost control is paramount and the fact that I have a low-sloped/flat roof is to: 1. air seal with installed closed cell spray foam insulation 2. augment with fluffy insulation (fiberglass, as mineral wool would blow my budget to pieces) 3. hang 1/2" 4-ply sheathing plywood on the walls and 7/16 osb on the ceiling 4. improve the seal around the garage door and man doors Step 1 is complete: I am looking forward to making a bunch of sawdust and getting that plywood and osb in place. Fingers crossed that work, family, and health all align to enable me to button this up before the snow flies!
  3. 5 points
    There is a Franciscan Monastery in Albuquerque that had a large wood shop run by one of the monks for years. He had to close it down for health reasons. I went in with another guy and bought his wood inventory (7500 bf), about half of it was walnut that he’d had since the early 80’s. All air dried. We sold off about half of it and split the rest. There’s still plenty of counter space once I get around to redoing the pantry we’ll probably move it there
  4. 4 points
    Your technique is what I use I make a simple jig and a bushing to make the mortise and make my own floating tenons. I did this for a bread board end for my live edge table and I also incorporated the draw bore technique
  5. 3 points
    Mid low (2nd pic) would be my preference. beautiful doors on that
  6. 3 points
    This is another of those things that should’ve happened a while ago. I’ve routed a channel for the t- track and dropped it in. A few screws and it’s not going anywhere. The stop I bought has a small ridge that helps the bolt lock in and stay square in the track. A bit of sanding and a few coats of finish and it’s ready to cut stuff on. The only thing I would maybe want to upgrade in the future is the incra track with measuring tape.
  7. 2 points
    Has anyone else done this? Instead of buying a festool domino to do breadboards, I used my plunge router with an edge guide to cut the mortises. I made my own loose tenon's. I use a 2" long x 1/2" diameter router bit. I was surprised how simple this was. I only had to set the edge guide once to cut the mortises. It took maybe 10 minutes to scribe it out and cut. I glued the center tenon and elongated the holes for the dowels on the outer tenon's, allowing for wood movement. Let me know what you think.
  8. 2 points
    I also hinged the top door on the bottom - made more sense to me since it goes under cabinets. Also, where Marc’s lower door is it’s a drawer on mine.
  9. 1 point
    Ok, I will send it to Bmac.
  10. 1 point
    Mid low, but a little higher than in #2. About where the top of the pull is in line with that pitch pocket on the left door. Nice job on the build!
  11. 1 point
    Not really. I store a lot of it in the garage next to my shop in vertical racks and the rest in a storage room off the breezeway. In addition to the ~ 1000 bf of walnut I wound up with, I had ~ 500 feet of cherry plus misc other stuff, quarter sawn white oak, sasparilla, maple, etc. When it was all said and done, I paid roughly 60 cents a foot for the lot. What would I do with 4000 bf of walnut? Even after splitting it I usually trade it with Carl for the cherry. I used most of the cherry on the kitchen cabinets.
  12. 1 point
    Coop I still have your one tiger hard maple board. It’s the one that’s 4” wide.
  13. 1 point
    You can stack cross tie’s and spilt wood. You doing the sawing has never been on your schedule.
  14. 1 point
    My daughter and future SIL both graduated from MSU as well
  15. 1 point
    Beautiful. Great color match in that setting. I really enjoy your work Mick.
  16. 1 point
    Prominent is where it belongs. Mick, you must have a big space to store that much wood. Sounds like a real score.
  17. 1 point
    Very nice build! It goes great in your kitchen looks like it's always been there.
  18. 1 point
    As beautiful as that is, is there any room on the counter? I like everything about it. The nicely finished walnut makes me want to stare. Air dried, maybe you knew the tree? Is it claro walnut? It sure is mesmerizing. Thanks for sharing!
  19. 1 point
    I like the front wood on your's, really some nice looking stuff. Interesting, When I saw Marc's in the early stages I thought the bottom was going to be a drawer but but I was wrong. But you fixed it.
  20. 1 point
    I like the changes you made, they do seem to make more sense that way.
  21. 1 point
    Nice work I like the walnut and that maple together.
  22. 1 point
    Great job and some stunning stock you found to build with. So the two subtle changes to the project I see are no metal inset on door and flush through tenons on sides. Any other changes?
  23. 1 point
    Those are some pretty sides. Looking good.
  24. 1 point
    I'd call this project a success - nice job!
  25. 1 point
    Beautiful work, Mick! I only wish more of the 'uninitiated' would appreciate your material choices and expert craftsmanship the way we all do.
  26. 1 point
    Did a lot of cleaning with Howard's Golden Oak and 0000 steel wool to get the Minwax off and also Brown tinted the General Finish cherry with the Howard's. Minwax caused hazing and cloudiness on the seat. Applied 3 coats General Finishes water based clear coat. Seat is nicer that rest of chair now. All's well that ends well, I guess.
  27. 1 point
    Yeah floating mortise and tenon. I've done that before i had the domino. The domino for all intents and purposes is a really handy jig that holds a router that wiggles back and forth. It's a revolutionary tool but in essence is very simple and doesn't really offer much that hasn't existed in the woodworking world for decades. I only use domino stock 50% of the time I use the tool it's self. I either make integral tenons or do other wacky stuff with it like super wide mortises with home made tenon stock. I don't mean this to deflate your balloon, instead the opposite. If you can get a router set up and knock stuff out that fast make a bunch of floating tenon stock and go to town. You could probably have 5 routers dedicated to tasks before you even start to match the cost of the domino.
  28. 1 point
    I got to see this in its beginnings and was looking forward to seeing the finish! Well done!
  29. 1 point
    It was built off the Woodtec many years ago to save space in my shop.
  30. 1 point
    i always draw up the plans after the project is done that way everything comes out perfect seriously, cut all pieces that are the same size at the same time using a stop, make an extra piece just in case, what @drzaius and @Tom King is correct, a 64th or 32nd does not matter most times as long as all the pieces are the same. router cabinet looks good to me and if it works that's all that matters.
  31. 1 point
    Relative dimensioning is the key. Make the box, then make the drawer to fit the hole. Then make the front to fit the drawer. Every time I try to cut every piece to size before putting anything together, I always seem to screw something up. So I just do it in stages.
  32. 1 point
    Measuring rarely brings multiple parts together in perfection. Try to avoid it when possible.
  33. 1 point
    Correct. It is all about your specific needs. I have 1/4" and 5/16" requirements. If I were starting from scratch I truly believe the 1/4" would work for everything I do . . . now. When I was a bit more ham-handed, I would probably have caused a 1/4" fixture of two to fail. Now that I have a little more finesse I could make my life easier having just the one form factor. With the exception of a few Incra tracks all my stuff is Rockler Universal track that accepts 1/4" and 5/16" stuff. I caught on early enough to buy packs of track, nuts, bolts and knobs when they would go on sale. At this point Rockler is so proud of the stuff I think they have nearly priced themselves out of the market. I have used other brands for miter track and the mating rail (profiles that do not accept 1/4" or 5/16" but, accept each other) that I use for fixtures without any trouble. I have seen a budget thin-wall version at the shows but, passed on it. I assume it is for more specific requirements as the price difference certainly wold not have driven a decision. P.s. Despite the Baladonia write up I would countersink the screws.
  34. 1 point
    Maybe try flipping the stretcher end for end? Start simple.
  35. 1 point
    I got the saw till made and installed today. I wanted to minimize how much I had to lift the saw to get it out, since the cabinet's up pretty high. I found that a large dowel in the handle worked, since the two saws that fit here are open handled. I used a rare species of ash, the reclaimed snow shovel handle variety that has dark grain lines. That's what was left over after I scraped off the varnish. The left side of the dowel is threaded onto a piece of all thread that is installed in the cabinet side. I used the thread taps and 1/4-20 all thread. The right side is a support that I wasted about 2 hours carving. Totally unnecessary, but it was fun. The top block is sized to allow the saws to sit with the guards on the blades. I prefer to store them that way. With this in, I realized that I could slip the tenon saw in behind the plane till. Fits perfectly, and I still have room for some miscellaneous stuff. I was looking, and my list of tools without a home is getting much shorter. I need to organize my squares and rulers, and put in the rest of my saws. At that point I should only have a few things left. Although I've almost fallen in the trap of going and buying tools I've been thinking about, so I can fit them in now... A nice set of screwdrivers, some gouges, maybe a shiny new square or two...
  36. 1 point
    There - I've protected myself against future clumsiness. That was actually really simple to do, once I thought about it, and it still works just as well.
  37. 1 point
    I snuck in a few minutes to knock out a marking gauge rack today. It made sense to me to also put my marking knife, and then I added my most used awl. I like it for the most part, but I'm debating how I feel about the marking knife blade being out like that. When I went to grab the gauge beside it, my instinct was to grab from underneath near the blade. If it's possible to stab myself on this thing I'll find a way. That's why you'll see most of my tools have blade covers.
  38. 1 point
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  39. 1 point
    I finished gluing all the doors over the last few days. It mostly went well, although my parts seem to have had some minor sizing discrepancies. As a result, I'll need to plane or sand them to eliminate it. Not a big deal, just annoying. I was happy with how the dovetails cleaned up though. I needed a break from the main case, so I've started on the drawers. I glued up a pile of my maple scraps to get the backs and sides, then planed them down. I also got my drawer fronts cut to size. I'm really happy I found this board for it. Next up is getting back to dovetails for the drawers. I'm debating whether to bother with half blinds, or just do another set of through dovetails.
  40. 1 point
    I'm going to call this one done. I've mounted most of the the tools that are going to live in this thing. I still have plenty of room for growth, and the front of the outer doors are still very rough. The plan is to carve some panels for those, but given that I've never done a lot of carving, I should learn to to do that first! I've been watching some of Mary May's videos, so over the next few months I'll get to it. Anyway here it is:
  41. 1 point
    Thanks all. Bench was a hit. The birthday boy has been ‘flushing the LEGO men down the toilet’ (i.e, putting them in the dog holes’.) ...still better than video games. Closeup of the bench crafted hi-vise turned mini-leg vise. Can’t say a bad thing about the product. Wow it’s well made. About the finish. While the chop is wipe on poly, I wrapped up the actual bench the day before, so I just wiped on walnut oil from the grocery store. The pine soaked it up and it dried overnight. No fumes. No smell. A great finish in a pinch to take the ‘raw’ look out of the lumber. Included a quick vid of me using the #8 to flatten the top. That, and traversing with my jack plane It made quick work of it.
  42. 1 point
    Complete and ready to go (this is much nicer than my bench)
  43. 1 point
    Bench is now finished! I acutually finished the construction about 1 month ago, and have already finished another project using the bench. The only part that I still needed to finish was the chop, because I had some decoration to do on it. Final dimensions are 79 1/2" long x 25 1/4" wide by 35" tall. I didn't make a sliding deadman as I don't do projects that really require it, but I did route in the groove in the front slab in case I decide to make one in the future, so it will be easy to add if needed. As a present for finally finishing, I bought myself a Veritas BU Smoothing Plane to finish the chop. It is very satisfying to use. I also bought the front knob and tote to convert my LABP into a little smoother. This is a great upgrade Here are some details of the chop. I went with a gothic theme, and bonus points to whomever can identify the symbol (it's not religious or political or anything like that...): Anyway, that it. This was a fun build, and again I'd like to thank everyone else on here who posted their builds as it made mine much easier. Art
  44. 1 point
    I'm sure the mitre joints would be fun, but I had enough trouble getting good results on normal through dovetails. With where I am, building this at all should be skill building. I used the router to clean up the pins and it was amazing. So much easier and faster than chiseling everything, although I felt like I was cheating. The joints came together pretty well. By the end of the evening, I had a dry assembled case. Next up is the lower support, which gets a mortise and tenon into the sides.
  45. 1 point
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  46. 1 point
    I'd tear the whole garage down, build it adjoining the house, make the ridge the same height as the other end, and same roof slope, with a matching hip. You could make it as wide as you wanted to. Draw 24', and see what it looks like.
  47. 1 point
    Made a fair bit of progress the last two days. First, I’m thrilled to say that my client is happy with an undercoat of boiled linseed oil and a top coat of polyurethane. That’s my favorite finish, so count that as a victory in the “influencing clients to choose a good finish” chart! I’m pumped. I now have all the walnut joinery finished. I assembled it all and used a little tape to help mock up the final look: The birch plywood panels will be up against a wall, so no worries there, btw. The client told me to not waste good materials on that side. The only trouble I’m having is that I made a rookie mistake and made the top rails all mortise-and-tenon rather than bridle or dovetail joints. I’m getting blowout on the end grain on most of the mortises because there's only about 3/16" of shoulder: Truth be told, I’m not that worried. It’ll be basically as strong as a bridle joint once there’s glue in it, and then it’ll be covered with a countertop for the rest of human history - not to mention that this vanity will be screwed to wall studs and never moved again. It’s already way overbuilt, even with the blowout. Next up is the plywood, I gues!
  48. 1 point
    I've got 3 fileing cabinets that were made for storing rows of punch cards. Great for hardware now but they were brutally heavy to get up the stairs to put them in the loft.
  49. 1 point
    Well, there is is, all complete! Sander is up and running and just waiting for the new DC piping! Huge "THANKS" @Llama for getting some measurements to me early enough to have the stand ready to go! Hope some people got a few things here that they can use in their shops!
  50. 1 point
    It is prefinished ply.. It's not the best stuff but, works great for shop furniture. Won't get much done the rest of this weekend I'm afraid. My youngest son is graduating from high school and college (AA Degree) on Saturday. Steaks on the grill at my place! Yea, the Treager!