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Showing most liked content since 04/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Thgouth I would share latest project - Music boxes for grandkids. Used Dyed veneer over 1/2" baltic birch with walnut trim. Finish is shellac. Brusso hinges. Corners, including all 4 sides of the top are mitered, then rabbets were cut for the trim, then box was cut open and trim where the top meets the bottom was added. A lot of little detail work but WTH its the Grandkids.
  2. 8 points
    You all might have realized that I am a big fan of Doucette and Wolfe. My recently completed project is a king bed based on the D & W. I was actually prompted after I saw @Eric do his version of this bed. The project took about 2 months to complete. When I first began planning it, I wanted to use tiger maple as the highlight wood in the panels but the online lumber store never responded to my requests. So, I went through my supply of lumber and chose to use plain sawn and curly / tiger mahogany. I began the project with the legs. The ultimate height of the bed was my son's choice since he is proud owner of this bed. I basically shortened the posts till I like the relative proportions. Joints are all mortise and tenons. I should mention that I used Satin Arm-R-Seal for the project. I finished the pieces as each was getting completed. The secondary wood is poplar. Once the legs and the major cross pieces were fitted, the rest seemed to flow very quickly. I had mark the faces of each component so that mortises reference the same surface. Despite this effort to apply blue tape to keep it straight, I screwed it up for on of the cross pieces. All I can say is thank god for veneer and glue to fix screwed up tenons. The two panels for both headboard and footboard are 4 way matched: top to bottom and left to right. Fortunately I had 10/4 curley mahogany to resaw. Fro the vertical panel, I found a piece of mahogany that looked very much like tiger maple. Sadly, I do not have a good pic of it. Well, I found a few more pics in my collection, including one of the middle panel to showcase the figure in the mahogany. The legs were roughed out on band saw and finished with spokeshaves. I finished the project this weekend. It is ready to be delivered. The side rails are secured with 3/8 bolt into threaded inserts in each leg. There are loose tenons above and below the bolt to help secure the rails to the legs. The bed is rather solid and secure. Found this detail picture showing the bolt with my home made 1/4 plate to better distribute the pressure from the bolt. I welcome all comments including critiques. It will help my learning process. Thank you for viewing.
  3. 4 points
    My apology if this is going to come across as prescriptive, but I have a couple of articles/pictorials that you might read to give you clarity on the issues with dovetailing. The two most important aspects in this common and very important joint are (1) sawing to the line, and (2) accurate transfer of tails to pins (or vice versa). For ease of accuracy (with my ageing eyes), I use blue tape to aid in marking out. See the pictorials below. When sawing tails first (as I do), the most important feature is to saw the top of the tail dead straight (across the board). Everything is affected accuracy- and fit-wise if this is not done. This is demonstrated in my two articles. 1. Half blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HalfBlindDovetailswithBlueTape.html 2. Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3.html Regards from Perth Derek
  4. 3 points
    I have Bessey parallel clamps, however I prefer to rely on blue tape when glueing up panels. It is clear to me that one does not need clamps applying great pressure to create flat panels with tight joints. I am in the process of building an apothecary chest. This one is a little different in that it will have a curved front with curved drawer fronts. There are 24 drawers in all, and these are arranged in 4 vertical rows (by 6 horizontal rows). The chest requires three vertical dividers. The carcase and drawer fronts are Black Walnut. The dividers are made predominantly from Merbau, a hardwood, and faced with Black Walnut. The Merbau is secondary wood and will not be seen with the drawers inserted. The boards were thicknessed and jointed with machines. They are slightly oversize and will be taken to final dimension with hand planes. This is a panel-to-be ... Stretch blue tape across one side to pull the boards tightly together ... Run blue tape along the joins ... we do not want glue escaping ... Flip the panel over and insert glue into an open join ... Do this with all the joins, and then pull the lot together with tape. Wipe the excess glue off with a wet rag ... Add a caul .. ... and leave to dry ... The result is very flat panels, ready for planing before being cut down and inserted into dados ... Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 3 points
    When I built the Maloof Rocker last year I sure wished I had a good workbench! Started getting some work done on my Roubo bench, since this build has been done many times on this forum I will occasionally post some pics of my progress without a lot of editorial comments. Building out of hard maple I ordered from Bell Forest Products and the Benchcrafted hardware.
  6. 3 points
    You could use a jig saw with a short blade.
  7. 3 points
    Chestnut, if you like the Veritas PM-V11 chisels, and can afford them, then get them. They are perfect for the finest dovetails. For dovetailing in hardwoods, you want a blade that can take the force from a hammer (no, I am not advising a heavy hand, just precise tapping). On the tests I have done, PM-V11 came second to Koyamaichi white steel ... and waaay ahead of everything else. The Veritas chisels are well balanced and good in the hand. Review here. I use a 1/8", 3/16, 1/4", and 3/4" the most. For clearing the corners of half blind sockets I use a Blue Spruce fishtail. Get the smallest one. Only one is needed. You also need a thin bladed, one sided, V- marking knife. Chris Vesper makes mine (this is a design of mine). Chris offers two versions, and one is the thinnest blade on the planet. Seriously, you could not transfer these without one ... Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 3 points
    Once the case parts were taken through their second round of flattening, I took them down to final thickness and width. Then it was on to the joinery for the fixed shelf. I cut the tenon cheeks with a dado stack- then it was layout time for the tenons and mortises. I chopped out the mortises first, then cut the tenons. And test fit the shelf. Pretty happy with that one. The other side didnt end up as nice. Little gappy. This is challenging project. Anyway, next up was the dovetails. But first, i needed to smooth the inside of the pin boards, before i get the dovetails fit. If i smooth the inside face after they are fit, it may cause the joint to loosen up. I used my no. 4 at first, but was getting a ton of tear out, so i used my scraper instead. Now i can layout the tails. And cut them out and clean up the baselines. After cutting all the tails, before transferring them to the pin board, i cut the rabbet in the case sides and top and bottom as well. I did this with my dado stack. Then comes the transfer. I use Mikes method of using blue tape to give a better visual of where the cut needs to be. You can use the tape to register the saw and this leaves very little paring to fit the tails. After alot of sawing and chiseling and transfering and fitting and hammering them together and hammering them apart and on and on, we can dry fit the case. I am very pleased with how its come together. The dovetails are my best yet, if a little gappy here and there. Ive got a long way to go to being a good dovetailer, and the only way to get there is to keep practicing. Theres alot left to do before i can glue this thing up, but im enjoying every minute of this. This post seems like its getting quite long, so ill end it here. Thanks for reading. Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
  9. 2 points
    Just came in! I’ve been using a bench top Rikon so a big step up. Got the riser kit, a mobile base, and Timberwolf blades. Will assemble and adjust tomorrow night!
  10. 2 points
    Still on the road for work and having a bit of a hard time with the shift they have me on. Finally getting the joinery completed in the legs and getting the side panels glued up.
  11. 2 points
    Trying to finish up the base. This is the current state. I added curves to the vertical parts of the trestle members and the lower stretchers. The vertical parts have through mortises for the lower stretchers. The biggest lesson learned from cutting those curves was that I overestimated my ability to operate a jig saw with thick material. I already knew that I should have a bandsaw for cuts like those, and this experience did nothing but reinforce that. Unfortunately, I do not have the space for a bandsaw at this time. The most recent change was to add the upper stretchers with lap joints. These parts are the first that are not red oak to this point (southern yellow pine). The idea is that these would be hidden by the top. I am embedding t-nuts in the top of the trestles for 1/4-20 fasteners that pass through the upper stretchers. The only task left for the base (other than sanding and finishing) is to create the vertical mortises in the lower stretchers and the wedges that will pass through these mortises and press against the outer surfaces of the vertical parts of the trestle members. The plan is to use cutoffs from the cherry for the top to make the wedges. I am a little nervous about cutting the mortises because (1) I don't want to mess up the lower stretchers and (2) I have never cut angled mortises. I guess only one of the four faces of those mortises needs to be angled, but still... After the mortises/wedges, I will start milling the 8/4 cherry for the top.
  12. 2 points
    I made a very similar one some years ago for a CNC training session with an ambrosia maple seat and Peruvian walnut legs, using the Texture tool to create a carved surface on the legs.
  13. 2 points
    The point is.....you took your time to be a dad and built something that will last for years for your little girl. To me, that's the most important point you made. Great job, by the way!
  14. 2 points
    I've made that cut on the table saw, with no problem. We use lengths of ABS pipe, with about a 1/2" wide slot out of one side to slip over the top of exercise pen sides for puppies. The expens come with two foot long sections that fold up. Without the stiffeners, the pens get pushed all out of shape. I didn't do anything special to make the cuts-just held it steady as it went through. I did use some feather boards to keep it against the fence.
  15. 2 points
    I clamped a fence to my miter gauge and started cutting all my joinery. This started off kind of tricky. The cuts would kind of drift on me in the middle of the cut, I assume because only the teeth of the blade were above the table, which means that while I am cutting, the workpiece can move left and right. No matter how tight I held the workpiece to the fence it just kept drifting. Clamping the workpiece to the fence fixed that and I was soon cutting half laps like crazy. Joinery is all cut and now I just need to clean them up using the block plane and the shoulder plane just like I did on my test piece. Time for gluing! I used a total of 7 clamps per shelf to get it right. And it worked. Just need to flush up the corners then add a little round over to the sharp bits and we are ready to put on the finish. Here we are with the first coat of Boiled Linseed Oil. I'm starting to get excited, this oak is it's looking pretty incredible. After 48 hours the shelves were starting to look a little dull, almost like they were covered in dust so I put a second coat of BLO on them. Then after 48 more hours I put Danish Oil on them. The Danish Oil stayed a little tacky for almost 3 days. I was worried I had done something wrong but it seamed to cure just fine, took longer than I anticipated for some reason. At this point the shelves were looking really good and I was worried that if I put the dark furniture wax on it like I had planned that it may mess it up, but I really wanted to do it, so I just went for it. I'm glad I did. The color and grain of this oak is gorgeous. I wish my poorly taken pictures could capture just how nice the grain is. For the ropes I found some thick twine like stuff at Harbor Freight. I'm not sure I like it but it's what I had. Roping this all together was pretty fiddly. It all worked out but it took like 2 hours. It's possible that it took 2 hours because I was watching more playoff hockey than I was working on the ropes though. Well here it is all hung up on the wall. Yes my daughter's room is painted pink, she is super girly. Lets put some animals on it! Recap: Yes this is completely over engineered and over built for what it is. The thing weighs like 35 pounds. But that is not the point. The point is that I did half lap joints, and I did them well. The real star of this show is that dark brown oak and the finish. The combination of the BLO, Danish Oil and the dark furniture polish is down right stunning. The unfortunate thing is that it will be covered in stuffed animals and no one will see it. Kind of tragic. I can see myself using that combination of finish in the future, probably a lot.
  16. 2 points
    I have a roll of butchers paper mounted on the end of my bench. I'll pull a length out for a basic drawing, then use shorter pieces for joinery details, and when the project is constructed, the paper becomes a glue and finish collector.
  17. 2 points
    Oak looks good with black lacquer or dye on it.
  18. 2 points
    Shim out the top left rear corner of the cabinet. Add strong magnetic catches .
  19. 2 points
    Love the smell of that fresh table grease after pulling off the protective paper. Enjoy the new setup!
  20. 2 points
    Nothing feels better than upgrading tools, especially when the difference is significant. Going from a bench top model to that Jet is going to be quite a improvement and impact the efficiency and quality of your work. Plus it’s just so much damn fun!
  21. 2 points
    Nice. Now you can cut up big slabs of beef for the BBQ.
  22. 2 points
    I picked up a whole set up DUO sharp and a 1k 5k and 8k Shapton stones, Stone holder, Flatner and a 10 set of Narex chisels for $200. OMG i should have gotten into water stones years ago. Spent the last 3 hours sharpening every kitchen knife to the point i had to caution the kids about touching one. These things are addictive.
  23. 2 points
    I drilled a row of holes around one end of the hose fitting to reduce the suction. I found a plastic plumbing pipe that just fit over that fitting after I cut a slit in it. The holes were drilled through both pieces, you could rotate the outer sleeve to control the suction.
  24. 2 points
    Rigid vacuums are a great value; cheap, powerful & they go forever. They are noisy though. For variable suction, it's easy enough to rig up a bypass valve in the hose fitting.
  25. 2 points
    Today I went to work on building the glides that will pull open for the extension leaves on the table. One of the common ways of doing this is to use two lengths of wood with a sliding dovetails. I read an article in Fine Woodworking where instead of this the author used heavy duty drawer slides so I decided to try this method. I started out with to pieces 2 1/2 inches X 1 inch and 61 inches long and 4 pieces of the same dimension but 30 1/2 inches long. The drawer glide takes up 3/4 if an inch in width so I needed to cut a channel in the matching pieces plus I wanted to allow an 1/8 of an inch between the two pieces so they wouldn't bind against each other when they were being open or closed. So I dadoed a channel 5/16 of an inch deep in eachPiece of track material. After that I laid out for some counter sunk holes that will be used for screws to eventually attach the glides to the under side of the table. I then drill 3/8 inch diameter holes 2 inches deep. A total of 5 on the long tracks and 2 on the ends of the short tracks. Next I cut a 2 1/2 inch piece off each end of the long tracks and number and mark their orientation on them to be used latter. After this I started mounting the glides in the longer tracks. I shimmed on each side to center the glide in the track and then drill a pilot hole and then adding the screw, moved the shims down to the next location and repeated the process until all the glides were mounted in the longer tracks. There are 2 glides in each long track, one at each end. Next I attached the short track sections, one on each end of each large track. To make sure that each section would be flat against the under side of the table I pulled the glide out just enough to access the first hole then I set the track next to it, giving the glide a 2 1/2 inch set back from the end of the track. Then I clamped the whole setup with a spring clamp so nothing would move while I drilled and screwed it in place. Then I released the clamp and pulled the track to expose the next hole and did the same thing, making sure everything stay flat against my bench. After the second one I could just remove the whole track to put in a third screw. Now I wanted to attach those 2 1/2 sections that I cut of the long tracks to the out side of the short tracks this way when everything is closed on the table you won't see the metal glide. But to do this I had to allow for the 1/8 inch gap between the 2 tracks and also the channel on the inside of each track. I took a piece of scrap that was 2 1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick and with my dado I made tongue on each edge of the board. Then cut it in to 2 1/2 inch pieces. So these are the two pieces that will be glued to the outside of the short track ends, a three piece sandwich. After the glue dried I laid out a 90 degree arc and cut it out on the bandsaw... ... and cleaned it up on the oscillating spindle sander. And this is what I ended up with for the end of the tracks. By saving and numbering the end pieces I have a perfect grain match when closed. Completed Extension glides. Fun day.
  26. 1 point
    Interesting i just did this for the first time yesterday. I am making a bird feeder and the panels were thin and small. It worked so well I'll try it on larger panels going forward. I also like the blue tape method to do miters for picture frames. I usually supplement with clamps but the blue tape keeps things in place until i can get the band clamp secured and tightened. Dare i say though that blue tap costs can add up over time and eventually might cost more than clamps we're talking like 50 year investment here .
  27. 1 point
    Pretty cool deal David. I just knew you were going to cut the hex in the walnut with the CNC! And I did watch it 3-4 times!
  28. 1 point
    I guess I did mention it earlier. Do you remember everything from January 6th ? Obviously I don't !
  29. 1 point
    Is saw a pic of a white box with a filed of Dimaond shapes on line. That inspired the box with the squares. The other was my own design. Thanks.
  30. 1 point
    This might be better. go to rockler site and search for" surface mount corner bracket "
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Spokeshaves can be made from flat-bottom, concave, or convex soles, depending on the type of job to be performed. Spokeshaves can include one or more sharpened notches along which the wooden shaft is pulled in order to shave it down to the proper diameter. Historically, spokeshave blades were made of metal, whilst the body and handles were wood. An early design consisted of a metal blade with a pair of tangs to which the wooden handles were attached, as with a drawknife. Unlike a drawknife, but like a plane, spokeshaves typically have a sole plate that fixes the angle of the blade relative to the surface being worked. By the twentieth century metal handles and detachable blades had become the most common. Credit goes to wikipedia
  33. 1 point
    Oh yes. I did a mantle for my daughters house out of red oak & finished with black lacquer. I generally don't like red oak, but this looked fantastic with the way the open pore grain showed through the lacquer.
  34. 1 point
    That looks like tannin staining & if so, stripper won't take it out, but oxalic acid should.
  35. 1 point
    Yep, the good stuff will get those corners and edges better. -Ace-
  36. 1 point
    He’ll probably cut more Wagyu on it than Walnut Congrats man!
  37. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, you will get lots of input on shop design, folks on here have done some amazing things with small spaces. I agree with comments on combo planer/jointers unless you are looking at the higher end units like like Felder, a 6” or 8” jointer and a lunchbox planer will serve you better. You really need to think about the type of furniture you want to build. You mention maybe a bandsaw, pretty sure that will gain higher priority as you venture into furniture building. You are heading into a large wonderful rabbit hole when it comes to this hobby.
  38. 1 point
    Congrats. Have fun an let us now how the asembly and set up went.
  39. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums! You might consider looking through the archives here for shop tours that several here have done. Might be some good ideas that will work in your shop.
  40. 1 point
    Welcome. Nice space. I would keep the mindset that the area where the cars are can be temporary usable space. If the machines near the cars are mobile, they can move out into that area to provide more outfeed and maneuvering room. It can also act as an assembly / finishing area if you have a mobile outfeed/assembly table sort of thing going on. As to things I did right: Put outlets at 50" from the floor so they are always reachable. Have a ceiling electrical reel for random electrical needs or to temporarily feed machines that are mobile. Put lighting on a different panel than the shop; even if you blow the main you will never be in the dark. Use PVC dust collection ducting that is lightweight and easily changed/modified. Made certain machines mobile; I don't move them much but, even just changing angle a bit can make many operation easier/safer. Store lumber vertically so sorting through is like looking for a book and not an un-stacking effort. Have a sink. Have a metal cabinet to store finishing products; lockable if you have young ones around. There are so many things that so many people have found work well for them. For example, I got rid of the CMS as it took up a very large foot print, I have other ways to do those cuts and I don't do a lot of trim work which they excel at. On the other hand I have a drum sander which takes up a large foot print, does things that could be done otherwise but, I would be loath to be without it; we're all different. You will find things specific to your needs and methods. Remain flexible and don't build your setup so well and so finely detailed that you are reluctant to change it. Have fun!
  41. 1 point
    This guy does a lot of cool structural bent lamination work (curved LVL), and his channel is full of useful shots of how he puts them together. My favorite bit is that he builds forms on a work table by simply screwing blocks down and then bending the strips around the blocks. I believe he uses larch (and is in eastern europe) but cedar or similar ought to work for a similar approach I'd imagine.
  42. 1 point
    I,m not familiar with the Rigid dust vac you have but if it doesn't have an adjustable suction it could be burning up your sanders. If it sucks your sander down to much it could be putting an excess of load on the motor. You really only need enough suction to pull the dust away. Just a thought.
  43. 1 point
    Oh heck yeah! Congrats dude!
  44. 1 point
    Glad to see you finely got your saw. I know you have been saving a long time.
  45. 1 point
    @Marmotjr you're back! Awesome! Hadn't seen any posts from you in a long bit. I thought maybe you had wandered away from the forum. Missed your furry face. OK, we return now to our conversation about pens.
  46. 1 point
    I got a couple of hours tonight to work in the shelf. I got the last two butterfly keys inlaid into the side. I'm also finished my sanding for now, so I think I just have to break the edges of some pieces that will be a pain later, then the big scary glue up. I think I'll break that into a couple of stages.
  47. 1 point
    Don't complain too much about your jointer, it could be worse.
  48. 1 point
    I went out to the garage last night to work on the project, and I got distracted away from the sanding. I blame Cremona. After watching the waterfall table videos, I wanted to add a couple of butterfly keys across the bark inclusions. I cut the keys on the table saw following the video from @MMWood. They turned out well, after a little cleanup. I used a trim router to cut the recesses. I had two to put in on this one shelf. I inlaid and glued them last night, then quickly ran a plane over them this morning. I still need to do finish sanding on the shelf, but I think they look pretty good. I was too lazy to make different sizes, so they're identical. I still have one more to inlay into the side of the bookshelf. My wife wanted no contrasting woods on this project, so it's all just out of the birch.
  49. 1 point
    It's kinda fun with a respirator and a leaf blower !
  50. 1 point
    Just to hijack your thread for a minute, two seasons of Rough Cut are on Amazon Prime