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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL
  2. 7 points
    What a great weekend with Darrell and his wife, Terry. The workshop could not have gone any better! One of the reasons I wanted to have Darrell do this seminar was because of his extensive use of CNC as a tool in his everyday workflow. Here's his Tercet table with custom CNC cut clamping cauls. He went into great detail about how much easier it is now for him to clamp up a piece with very odd angles by making these custom cauls to fit the angles, with detents in the cauls for precisely placing the clamp jaws in alignment. Everything lines up perfectly with very few to no gaps requiring adjustment. Great use of the technology! And this is how deep the sawdust was in his shop when he forgot to empty his collector. We had a few more people than the class is designed to hold, but we managed. It was a full house. My buddy Carl eyeing some of the ebony plugs Darrell is cutting. He won't notice them missing, right? Meanwhile, back in Denver is my brother (who was supposed to attend the Darrell Peart seminar!) waiting patiently for his signed copy by some guy hawking his book. But that's okay. I got my own signed copy! I'll get some of the video processed and posted a little later. Darrell is a great instructor. If you ever have the opportunity to take one of his classes or attend a workshop, do it. Very personable, completely unpretentious and happy to answer any questions you have.
  3. 6 points
    Finally got some steady time to get this one wrapped up which is good too. I am upgrading my electrical panel this Thursday and i have to button up a bunch of wiring and get new grounds ready before the big day. The sawdust and glue mix worked surprisingly well. You can still see marks but it's far better than it was. After i got the frame made and the top sized, it was as simple as thinning out some walnut to make a slip fit top. I needed some dividers for the piece treys as well as the center wall thing. I had a small piece of redgum sitting on my scrap shelf and figured with all the chaos of wood on this one why not add 1 more species. It turns out it blends well between the walnut and the black dyed wood i used on the field. I just have the brass latches left to install after the finish cures. It's too bad the Mahogany veneer is so much darker than the piece i had. I hope that in time it evens out. If i get a chance i might toss it out side to sun tan this week. It's supposed to be in the 60s!!!!!!!!!
  4. 6 points
    I made this jig up to hold picture frames for finishing. really simple, a couple of slides with finish nails pounded in them, cut off the head end and sharpen them with a dremmel tool, slides are secured with a carriage bolt and wing nut. tighten one end down, squeeze the nails into the frame with hand pressure, squeeze the other end into the frame and tighten the wing nut. holds good for finishing and can be held with one hand to finish all parts then hung up somewhere out of the area to dry. made several of different lengths and can put 4 slides on one to do two frames at once. made them way back when wood frames were popular, they still are around my house anyway, picture frame is butternut if anyone was wondering.
  5. 6 points
    Good Morning! Since you were all so generous with your advice and time, I wanted to share the outcome of my crisis with all of you kind folks. What eventually worked to remove the gray crusted blotches on my ash mantle was this process...CitriStrip applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, After Wash applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, Mineral Spirits (with days of drying time) and then Minwax Wipe On Poly (3 coats). It is beautiful in the end! Thank you for helping me problem solve my dilemma. I greatly appreciate your efforts!
  6. 5 points
    While you're recovering Rickey here's some real rainbow wood for you to dream about cutting It's really a rainbow tree that grows in Hawaii, daughter and her family were just there on vacation, only the bark is colored, it's actually a variety of Eucalyptus tree
  7. 4 points
    After several months of planning and prepping the day has arrived. We're very excited to be able to welcome Darrell Peart for the weekend workshop to the Santa Fe Community College Fine Woodworking Program!
  8. 4 points
    Wow, all amazing and great suggestions. You guys should be commended for how positive and suggestive your comments are. So, here's where I am now. I think it's looking good. I do worry that the lower doors might look bland. Also, the pulls are not finalized Still thinking of the ramifications of hinging the front on the top shelf so when the top is open, it's out of the way. The center cabinet opening with the shelf folding to horizontal is a compromise. I'd rather not have it slide into the top as those hinges, at least the ones I'm familiar with, don't allow the shelf to fully slide in. There's always some of that shelf that sticks out and that means I'll have to crouch (further) down to see into the back into the cabinet recesses. Scott
  9. 4 points
    Learning experience that i thought I'd offer. When slicing veneer cuts that go along the grain will disappear but those going across the grain do not. You can see the cut that was left by the razor blade when i made the cut. I'm going to try and fix this with sawdust and wood glue but i'm not sure if that's going to make it better or worse. I'm going to use wiping poly so it should blend fix it somewhat I just don't know the effect it might have on the burl. I know now to be far more careful with this kind of cut. If any one thinks of a better fix feel free to throw it out and I'll give it a shot. There are 3 separate areas where this happened. Zoomed out. Still have some sanding to do to remove some veneer tape.
  10. 3 points
    So for the dremel base fence rather than pay StewMac $X for it, i made a little fence of oak. A couple slots for adjustment and beveled a little relief for sawdust.
  11. 3 points
    Wouldn't that be Raggedy Andy Coop? get better soon my friend
  12. 3 points
    The ole boys in Tennessee are not as tough as the boys in Texas. I started crying and sucking on a sugar tit.
  13. 2 points
    So I've milled all my door parts to rough size, although nothing exciting to show there. On the main cabinet, all I really need to do is add the dividers on the plane cubbies. In the plans, Matt has 7 of them with about 3 1/4" per. Looking at it, I think I can fit in 8. Anyone see an issue with the inside dimension being around 2 3/4"? I can't think of a plane that's in the 9" and under range that it would prevent. Most of what I plan to put there is block planes, shoulder plane, etc, and my smoother is 2 1/2". And just to show something, here's the Birdseye maple I got for the drawer fronts. I like that this side has plenty of heartwood in it.
  14. 2 points
    Yes they do Coop, I have a friend who is a tool and die maker make me those corner blocks out of aluminum, drill and thread them and I added the rods, they are similar to a plastic one I got years ago, great for anything from frames to boxes, drawers ect
  15. 2 points
    I would imagine high fives are out, too.
  16. 2 points
    It's always nice to have someone give us the results of your effort using info you managed to pry out of us.
  17. 2 points
    Thanks Dave. This one is going 1000 times better than the last series.
  18. 2 points
    I get that. I submitted one of my pieces to an American Assoc. of Woodturners competition. I figured for the small entry fee I'd find out what the rejection letter looked like -- they could have done better .
  19. 2 points
    I got a good chunk of the interior done. I'm using some drawers from an old project, so I'm trying to fit the case to the drawers, rather than the other way around, so the fit likely won't be perfect, but I'm ok with that. I've discovered that the router and I simply don't get along. It shouldn't be hard, but I really struggled with the dados for the interior dividers. A project like this is a good one to practice on though as any mistakes can be easily hidden, and it will never leave the shop.
  20. 1 point
    Hey everyone! I know I don't post too often, but I figured I'm about halfway through this build and I wanted to share progress and maybe keep myself accountable to finish the darn thing. So a few years ago, when my son was first born, I made a midcentury modern side table. It's shown here: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. I am proud of that piece. It was the first time I ever tried to do nothing but best practices in my woodwork. Lots of hand-tooling, lots of hidden and half-blind dovetails, lots of creative crazy joinery. It's holding up quite well, too, and I liked it so much that I decided it needed a friend. Two projects ago, a client wanted a cherry TV stand, so I over-ordered cherry and kept enough back to make myself something. For my next few projects, I want to keep building in this style and filling out my living room. My goal is this: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. The TV stand, bookshelf, and coffee table are all new, while the other stuff is existing. I know a mission-style white oak Morris chair doesn't exactly go with a bunch of cherry midmod stuff, but I'm keeping it for sentimental reasons. Here's the TV stand that's in progress: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 31.6%. Click to view full size. On the original side table, I was trying best practices with no regard to how long it took, and that tiny table took about two months as a result. It turned out GREAT, but that's a long time, and I've got commissions to build after this. Gotta make money somehow. So the way I'm looking at this project is that I'm trying to see how quickly and efficiently I can make a piece that I'm proud of without sacrificing too much quality. The project is an exercise in "compromising without compromising," so to speak.Compromises:1. No buying new material. So far so good on this one, I had just the right amount in the shop for the case, doors, and drawer fronts. I did have to use sapwood-heavy boards on the interior, but nobody will ever see that in daily use. I also had to use a board that had a half-inch bug hole through it. It's also on the inside - it'll be the surface that the top drawer rides on top of. I filled the bug damage with epoxy, and nobody will ever be the wiser. Everything on the outside is looking good. I did have to do a few panels with three boards when two wider ones would have been preferable, but I'm working with limited stock here, and I'm keeping it pretty symmetrical, so it's not a major loss. One compromise that I'm somewhat okay with is that the back panel is actually ΒΌ" cherry-veneered MDF panel.2. No overly complicated joinery. On the original side table, the miter joints featured blind mitered dovetails. Those took FOR. EVER. And they look great and were a dream to glue up, because everything came together perfectly, but I'm not sure how much of a payoff there will really be. For this one, I just cut the miters on the table saw with a sled and used biscuits for alignment. On the original, the vertical components were held in place by sliding dovetails in the top and bottom of the case. In the TV stand, they are just held in by a simple tenon in a groove. Simplified joinery, but not to the point it will be weaker.3. Fastening hardware is okay. I'm attaching the base to the top with screws up through the base into the bottom of the cabinet. On the side table I did a crazy sliding dovetail thing - a very cool magic trick for woodworkers to ooh and ahh over, but it actually doesn't really help the piece in use, and it took forever. Screws where they will work better faster and never be seen? I'm in.Non-Compromises:1. The joinery will still be solid. It'll hold up to everyday use. And it will look good doing it.2. The wood will still be as-well-selected as possible in spite of trying to avoid buying new material for this project. It's all pretty decent cherry aside from the defects deep inside the case, which will be invisible during ordinary use.3. The hardware is going to be niiiiice. I bought the stainless steel knife hinges from Lee Valley and installed them in the case prior to glue-up. I just ordered ball catches from Brusso (via Amazon) and will use those to lock the doors shut. I've already got my handle hardware - it's as close as I could find to the hardware from the original side table, and I think it'll look great.So here's my progress so far: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. The legs and stretchers went together without a hitch. Simple enough, just vertically-oriented sliding dovetails into the tops of the legs. This is the fourth or fifth time I've used this technique for attaching legs, and it's become one of my favorite techniques. It's just so solid. This photo was prior to final glue-up, but it looks essentially identical right now. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. Testing the miters with the biscuits. It went pretty well for the most part. There was a little trouble during the glue-up, but that may be a different post. Definitely easier overall than the blind mitered dovetails, but the glue-up sucked a lot more, haha. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. And here's the case put together! This was another pre-glue photo, so what you can't see here (and I'll have to get a picture of later) is the slight bevel on the outer edges of the case. Here's a close-up of it in my sketch up model:That little bit of detailing is really making this piece feel pretty great.So yeah, that's about where it's at at the moment. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. (pre-glue, those gaps are all gone now)So, here's where I'm at from here. I've got the door panels glued up and I've got the drawer-fronts selected and rough-cut to size. I am going to take a walk in the danger zone and make my doors be solid wood panels. I figure that the worst that could happen is they get stuck, and I have to trim them - or they warp into potato chips and I have to scrap them and make new doors. Honestly, that wouldn't be so bad. I mean, I'm a woodworker. I've never done solid-wood doors, and this cherry seems quite stable, so I'm giving it a go. I think it'll look good with the modern style. For the interior of the drawers, I'm waffling back and fort between ash and maple - mostly because I have a bit of ash on hand already, but I'm not sure if it will be enough to make what I need, so it may just come down to whether I have enough ash on hand. If I don't, I'll probably buy maple just because it would look better with the cherry.More updates will follow.Keep getting splinters, fellow termites.
  21. 1 point
    One upside Richard is the skin on the palm usually heals pretty fast. Ive had some nasty looking gashes on my palm that healed up nicely in a week or two with no trace.
  22. 1 point
    Check out this curly white oak log. I found at the mill this morning. I have my name on that log now.
  23. 1 point
    Easy visual determination of BB ply versus veneered ply.
  24. 1 point
    That's a beautiful piece that you've entered. I don't think I'd have the balls to do that.
  25. 1 point
    That ought to be a fun weekend. Take plenty of notes.