Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/31/20 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Everyday we have quotes posted in our local paper that were overheard in public. Sometimes there just cute things but most of the time they are pretty funny and in this case fitting to the times.
  2. 8 points
    I fixed this: Fine woodworking & attention to detail
  3. 8 points
    So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.
  4. 8 points
    Doing good, just finished this up today.
  5. 8 points
    I havent updated this in a while, but much progress has been made due to being shutdown. I am fortunate in the fact that I can work from home, counting my lucky stars on that. With no commute and no where to go, shop time has increased significantly. Leg vise has been fitted, tested and completed Base is complete. Laid out mortise locations for the slabs yesterday and hope to cut those this afternoon.
  6. 8 points
    I've had this build on my to do list for a while and I put it off, and now I remember why, because there are so many glueups. I've already been through two 16 oz bottles of TB III. So @Chip Sawdust is right, this does seem to be going slow. But I have made progress so here's the update. Top deck is done so it was on to the bottom deck. This glue up is a little more tricky since the top deck prevents getting good clamping pressure onto the ribs. So some creative clamping did the trick. Center board is the first to be glued; And working my way out from there; Once I got most of the lower deck glued up I wanted to get the nose boards put on. Started with cleaning up the front of the board. Before cleanup; After cleanup; So now that I have a nice surface to glue to I started with adding my boards. In this pic you can see I was able to tie my clamps into the board frame where I had not yet put my decking on. This worked out great and I don't think I could have done this as effectively if all my decking was in place. Also I left the first boards very proud of the deck. I used this lip to glue on successive boards. So then it was a matter of glue up after glueup, alternating 8 boards. Here's the end result with some rough shaping to get the nose boards flush with the deck; Next a little rough shaping of the nose. Really like as I shape and round the front that the light color paulownia peeks out from the cedar; Now on to the sides. First I need to flush up the deck and the frame and make the top deck even with the bottom deck; Now that I have a nice surface to glue too I start adding strips; In this pic you can see I'm adding a second strip to the first strip. After getting two strips added to the top and bottom I'll "connect" the top to the bottom with 1 last strip, then it will be all closed up. And finally, here's how the tail is shaping up; So I have got a lot done but it does feel like slow going. I can get a couple glue ups done, then I need to wait a few hrs before moving on. So in between glue ups I've been working in my yard. Just redid my garden beds. So I have been productive in more ways then one; Thanks for looking.
  7. 7 points
    Got this so it's ready for finish. Vanity for a friend.
  8. 6 points
    Outdoor movie night. Burned my chair templates. They were taking up too much room.
  9. 6 points
    If you see two images, it's 'cause I pasted one and drag/dropped the other. If you see none, I don't know WHAT is going on. I see it just fine.
  10. 6 points
    I will say.....this whole thing has me reading a heck of a lot more online content, especially Facebook. This came up on my FB feed, and I'm still laughing - Morgan Freeman, narrating....
  11. 5 points
    Bought a new trim router the Bosch cordless becuase well you can never have to many routers right
  12. 5 points
    I thought about getting a T-shirt that said STFAH, but then I thought that since I'm at home, no one would see it.
  13. 4 points
    Still working on the John Deere, when I get some time. It's back together, from the two splits for the reverser clutch system rebuild, and has been for several weeks. In the process of putting it back together, there are some hard hydraulic lines that had to put back together. They had to be disconnected to split the tractor. I found some serious problems caused by idiots working on it in the past. All the flare nuts were distorted from having regular wrenches used on them. After the nut is distorted, it will leak, so then the unknowing mechanic with tighten it some more. Only flare nut wrenches should ever be used on such line nuts, regardless of their size. These require either a 1" wrench, or 1-1/4" wrenches, and flare nut wrenches do come in those sizes, and even much larger. I ordered what I needed off ebay. All the steps of getting to a place where I need more tools adds time in days, as I order stuff, wait for it to get here, and then leave the packages for a couple of days to make sure any virus is dead. Here is the most visible problem I found, and then found that all the nuts, in the whole system were distorted. That's when I stopped, and ordered the large flare nut wrenches. I also printed out a torque chart, and ordered some flare nut crowsfoot sockets to use on a torque wrench. There will be more posts in this thread, but I need to get to work this morning. This has been quite a project. I'll add a couple of extra pictures, as a teaser for the rest of the process-ended up redoing the front axle too. It's been extra slow, since I'm working by myself, without a helper, like I normally do.
  14. 4 points
    Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.
  15. 4 points
    If anyone deserves it, they and first responders do. My wife said she will not go with me Monday morning to Kroger’s senior hour if I wear my whitey tighties as a mask. She will miss the fun!
  16. 4 points
    My two kids have yet to say that they are more worried about my 401k than me so, that’s a good thing.
  17. 3 points
    I use my LN Model Makers block plane for this, just a couple passes you can't hardly tell unless your looking for it but enough to break the edge with a consistent end result. Second choice would be sand paper in my hand.
  18. 3 points
    I bought this brush on a lark, thinking it was interesting, but no big deal. When I got it, I was surprised at the quality of the brush. It has 3" long natural boar bristles that are just the right amount of stiffness - Stiff enough for general cleaning, but soft enough for delicate stuff too. I couldn't figure out where to keep it, so I drilled a small counterbore on the back and super glued an ND magnet in it. Now I can just stick it to the overarm dust collector on my saw and it is in easy reach. This brush has turned out to be really handy.
  19. 3 points
    Well...I've almost landed my first dining table commission today. After a week of back and forth emails and designs, we agreed to a design, timber and price. No cash (not quite done until this happens) has exchanged hands yet as we're waiting for life to hopefully return to normal. It's been a real learning experience so far. The table is based (mostly copied) on a few designs that were sent to me. Drawn up in Fusion 360. https://www.huset.com.au/product/jutland-natural-solid-oak-dining-table-alternate-sizes-ton-cz-original
  20. 3 points
    Watching old F1 recaps on YT while making progress on my Ferrari model
  21. 3 points
    If the lid is too fragile to handle the suggested processes, why not sculpt the box edges until it matches? A ever-so-slightly curved line where the two meet is far more difficult to notice than a gap.
  22. 3 points
    Felt I had to post this here... https://profootballtalk.nbcsports.com/2020/04/02/patriots-retrieve-more-than-a-million-n95-masks-from-china/ Robert Kraft gets a lot of headlines - both good and bad - but this quote caught my eye...“In today’s world, those of us who are fortunate to make a difference have a significant responsibility to do so with all the assets we have available to us.”
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    I wasn't sure which forum to put it in. Saw is an old 070. You don't need a chain brake anyway, if you're not going to use the front handle.
  25. 3 points
    Coop the next time you come in, I want you to kick my butt for selling RIW a whole log of tiger hard maple.
  26. 3 points
    I just got this email from Nikon. I guess they are taking advantage of people being stuck at home and are opening up their learning courses for free. https://www.nikonevents.com/us/live/nikon-school-online/?&utm_source=MKT&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=FreeNSO-4-1-2020&utm_content=btn&utm_term=startnow&ET_CID=3269339&ET_RID=326549722&SC_ID=0032400000mK7W3AAK Could be useful to many just thought i'd throw it here.
  27. 3 points
    My cousin, who is an advanced ameteur photographer, lent me a Nikon D70 and some other equipment. Here's a picture of the setup and one of my "design studio".
  28. 3 points
    Thank you. I'm a self taught hobbiest who acquired a very nice shop over the last 40 plus years. When I retired I intended to make a little money building furniture and hardwood counter tops but I ended up building furniture at a very consistent loss for my family, friends and church. Oh well, it makes my wife accept some of my shortcomings. I like to build beds and tables but I've built tv consoles, counter tops, cabinets and lots of other stuff except I've never built a chair. My last couple of projects were a copy of The Railroad Barons bed built in walnut, a live edge walnut sofa table and three tables on pipe frames with casters for my church. I'm just starting a river table with glass insert from a cherry slab that is about 24" by 96" by 2 1/4". In my shop I have 54" (?) 5hp Jet cabinet table saw, 20" Powermatic planer, 8"Grizzly jointer, Delta bandsaw, 12" Dewalt compound miter, Jet drill press, 3 1/2 hp router table , 50"Woodmaster sander and 4 vac systems. I've also got a 16" jointer that was built in around 1860 that was originally water or steam powered that I haven't finished refurbishing.The tools are better than the woodworker. I'm slow but I still have all my fingers.
  29. 3 points
    Did a little more on the Ferrari today. Put a little heat in the shop, brushed some sawdust out of the way and prayed some red paint. A friend of mine says you can't spray in the shop because the dust is ionically charged to attract itself to the paint spray. I didn't buy it, and I think the results speak for themselves. I'm not a professional and maybe not that picky in some things, but this is a Ferrari and I am a tifosi from way back so this has to be decent, if not perfect.
  30. 2 points
    I agree, but with some pieces, a very slight chamfer with the edge being a distinct 45* can be very effective. Of course, those edges need to be softened just a bit as well for reasons of wear, comfort, and getting the finish to want to cover the edge.
  31. 2 points
    I’m glad to hear from everyone that the company is of quality standards and appreciate the feedback. I saw only great reviews which is why I ordered from them. Buying a superb resaw blade at $50 is more along the lines of my budget than a $200 resaw blade. The company told me this morning they are sending a new blade out and hadn’t ever had issues either. So I’m content. Just need myself to remain patient as the wait to resaw this expensive hardwood goes on!
  32. 2 points
    Pics or it didn’t happen!
  33. 2 points
    Yeah, goat is one fine Bar B Que.
  34. 2 points
    Wax is huge you must wax for smooth operation. The dresser i made for Megan, the 8 drawer walnut one, had drawers that are about the same aspect as yours the tolerances side to side are tight like maybe 1/64 gap both sides so 1/32 total. The trick don't make your drawers square. if the front width of the drawer is 22" the back should be like 21 7/8". So you essentially make a trapozoid. The important part to make your drawers sit flush is to make sure the stops on the back side will have the front flush. For the dresser i made my drawer tight and then used a handplane on the sides to bring them into shape. (my material was solid wood). This is a trick i picked up from period furniture makes. Something similar should be done for the height as well. You only really want to close the gap with the front edge of the drawer. So if the drawer opening is 3.75" your drawer front should be like 3_23/32" or even 3_45/64" after the drawer front sand/plane things down to 3_20/32 - 3_21/32" Another way to get around this is to use a center guide but i assume it's too late for that. Another trick for stops is to buy some of those silicone bumpers for kitchen cabinets and use those. When you shut the drawer you get a nice soft bump and it's ever so pleasing. I know people like BB drawer guides but once you figure out wood guides NOTHING comes close. Now that i'm typing this i'm going to order some cause i'm low. https://www.amazon.com/Shintop-Furniture-Bumpers-Protection-Hemispherical/dp/B01DU0O00W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=kitchen+bumpers&qid=1586012794&sr=8-2
  35. 2 points
    So you mean my daughter has actually been coughing all this time???
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    One of the best systems I use is multiple white dishpans, and cups, to keep up with each assembly's parts. It worked like a charm when I put the tractor back together after the splits. It was a multi-month project, and it helped immensely in figuring out where everything went back. No left over parts, so far. This particular pan was for the forward facing, Mid-PTO, which I never have any need for, but it had to come out to get the Reverse Clutch out. I forget how many of these I used, but it was a fair number.
  38. 2 points
    It's a 1978 model. The John Deere parts guy said it would be a 2020 when I get through with it. I didn't start out intending to do this much to it, but I keep finding stuff that needs to be redone. I don't know how it worked at all, with that twisted line, but I've used it for 29, or 30 years like that. I couldn't even get the lines to go back together, so I traced it forward. That twisted part was up behind the front frame, and under the hydraulic fluid cooler, so it wasn't in sight. Specs call for torque of 70 to 78 ft. lbs. for that line. I needed two pipes to get the front joint apart. I'll show pics of the big flare nut wrenches after I take some. While I was under there disconnecting the lines, I shook the inner tie rod ends, on that bell crank, and they were scary loose, to the point that I didn't want to drive it like that. Bent a regular puller trying to get them out. Ordered that big assed puller, and it split the bolt end. So, no choice but to take the bellcrank out, to use the hydraulic press, and in the process of getting that out, found out how completely worn out the bushings were on all the pivot points of the axle. So, more tools ordered, more waiting, but all the bushings are out now-a story in itself. That center section of the axle weighs a couple of hundred pounds. One of the best cheap, Chinese tools I've bought. Of course, I ended up having to use them in a non-standard way. That's a fifty buck set of press dies. They go up 1mm each. I ended up being to beat the bushings out, without having to build something to get that beast up to shop press level. The two press dies on the little shaft together: The little one fits inside the bushings in the frame. The bigger one fits the O.D. of the bushings, and the little shaft is for use with a slide hammer. I held that stub with Vise Grips, and hit it with the 2 pound hammer. That worked, in the tight quarters under the front frame. I ruined that slide hammer adapter, but that's the cost of getting the job done. The quarters were so tight under there, for swinging a hammer, that I had to cut a slot through the bushings in order to get them out. They wouldn't budge with blows as hard as I could get on them. In the center axle section, I could get those bushings vertical, and leave penetrating lube on those overnight, but the ones in the frame had to stay horizontal, so penetrant did no good on those, which is why I had to cut them. They'd been in there for 42 years. That one in the last picture was behind the back journal enough that I couldn't get a good swing with the 2 pound hammer, if I put that handle in the die, so I kept stacking smaller ones behind the first one, so I could hit them with the stonework hammer.
  39. 2 points
    Thoroughly enjoying the build right now. Hard to get actual work done when I am sitting on the other side of the wall from the bench. I just want to get out there and keep going. So close to the finish line.
  40. 2 points
    The Bosch Palm router, should be here in a week or two. I will let you know how I like it but like you mentioned I think it will be nice for edge routing tasks. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/12v-max-routers-37949-c/
  41. 2 points
    Anyone here watch Zoboomafoo as a kid or with your kids?
  42. 2 points
    I have spent most of this work from home with an iPad on my porch. Even When it is cool, the fresh air is awesome for clear thought. It will be tough to go back to a school building in the fall.
  43. 2 points
    Build the step stool yourself. The Shakers have a simple but beautiful design. Ask Google, it'll take you there.
  44. 2 points
    That must mean that you need two new lathes!
  45. 2 points
    Meat calculator says that one link of venison sausage will serve two people for one meal. I’m sure glad my wife likes oatmeal better than venison.
  46. 2 points
    Well the state has closed the lumber yards, notsure about the tie yard. I’m just about out of logs with all the rain we are getting. I may need to start woodworking.
  47. 2 points
    Your best bet would be a plywood carcass. You can get plywood with any hardwood exterior you would like, Oak, Cherry, even walnut, then use solid wood for your face and doors. In this case, it's not about saving money, it's about construction. Solid wood will move no matter what you do to prevent it. Plywood is 10 or more times stable, and as far as appearance goes, just how much of the carcass in reality will be seen? Going all out with solid wood will eventually give you a small pile of expensive firewood.
  48. 2 points
    Welcome bud, I live close to you as well, and in answer to your question, Spanky does pick out the best logs he can find, saws them his self, and has his own kiln. 90% of what he sells is all furniture grade local hardwoods. And, he's a hell of a nice guy to deal with.
  49. 2 points
    One that you know of. There will be more.
  50. 2 points
    Just to be clear guys, I'm not saying that a phone is just a notch below a DSLR. But in so many situations, a good phone camera is definitely good enough. It is astounding how good they have gotten. This is just the kind of thing where a good phone camera will do a great job. As they say, the very best camera is the one you have with you.