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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/09/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Just finished this barn for a friend's Grandson. Basic box is Baltic birch plywood with redwood "boards" glued to it. At least I think it is redwood. I salvaged it from my garage door jambs when I replaced them. Trim is maple and roof is a veneer strips on plywood, shellaced to darken the color. Friend is very happy. Animals are by owner. Freind says that she has had 3 people who want to buy one and one the wants to buy the plans. It was just too much work to be able charge a reasonble amount unless I could figure out a way to batch 3 together and avoid cutting the boards around the openings. Also, the roofs would have to be part of the box - too much work to make them as separate pieces. Plus I am out of redwood. I think I will just quietly move on to the next project.
  2. 6 points
    I forgot that i didn't post the finished pictures. The one with the walnut in the 2nd pictures is our cutting board it was just there so i included it. The inlay one turned out nice. When i glued the strips in the middle i wasn't paying attention and one didn't get centered. I had to plane away a lot of material to flush it up so the board is on the thinner side. Megan prefers that, is there any reason why the boards need to be so thick like some that i see?
  3. 5 points
    Next big step is to figure out what router bit your goign to use. This could be a HUGE problem if your router bit storage looks like this. I swear i had a 1/2" router bit in here. Comes back 5 min later, Where in the eff is my template bit. 10 min later Ok pattern bit has to be in this drawer, who is in charge of this organization structure they should be fired. Ok got the router bit in the collet and tightened down. Make sure to tighten it down. I can't count how many times I've skipped that step and i never ends in any time saved. Make sure that your template is clamped down grab your hearing protection and get ready to go to town. One import thing to note is the direction your route the grove. When doing template work it's always best to have the router bit puch the rouer into the template. When routing with the handheld router the bit turns clockwise. With this make sure the template is on the left side if forward is your feed direction. With the groove cut take the board to your curve cutting device and seperate the sides. Next is cleaning up the excess with your template and pattern bits. I don't know the difference between them other than one is top bearing and the other is bottom bearing. Either that or they are the same thing with 2 different names and bearings on either side. The next step is to make strips to fill in the void. I took some offcuts from my Morris chair build that were 1/4" thick and resawed them down. Then i cleaned them up on the drum sander with some other maple offcuts i had laying around. The goal here is to make the wood your adding back in the same thickness as the wood the router bit removed. if you used a 3/4" bit have enough strips for 3/4", ect. Make sure that the strips are sufficiently thin to bend around the curves that you put in the board. I was going to have a strip of walnut but i did a test run and the strip snapped before it got all the way clamped together. Then it's glue and clamps. The clamp that is running vertical in the picture above is critical. It's also important to consider this clamp when you lay out the curve in the cutting board to allow a clamp to be placed like this. With out this clamp things get dicey FAST. More steps later... so keep your fitbit on.
  4. 4 points
    So I'm going to do this at a request of those in the Hijack Thread or was it the What I did Today Thread? I digress topic is inlay cutting board. I previously glued up 3 cutting boards from scraps and decided to make one of the 3 an inlay board because Ken mentioned he had some gaps and was not quite understanding something. I should say thanks for the pressure to make one of these because it was a lot of fun. Glue Boards together. Make flat. Yes to boards are different just look past that. We're not here to be nit picky. Well actually we might be... Next is to make your curve template. I used 1/2" BB a lee valley drawing bow for symmetrical curves and a pencil. In my personal opinion drawing curves are limitless with the 1 exception. All of the curves need to be tangential. If you take nothing from this journal take that away. To have tangential back to back curves you need the point where the curves change directions to have a tangent that are parallel. This is somewhat complected so i understand if you like "Psh math you suck" but this is geometry and doesn't have numbers so stick with me. A tangent is a line that will only intersect a circle at 1 point. If it helps to visualize if you have a ball on a string and the string breaks the ball will leave the circle at a tangent. Final example when you go around a curve on a road and the road goes strait again. The strait part is 99.999% of the time tangent to the curve in the road. The reason behind this is curves that intersect not along tangents tend to look jarring and will also make the clamping procedure difficult possibly causing gaps. Take your drawing bow or other curve instrument and get some curves down. After that take it to your curve cutting device, mine is a band saw. Make sure to cut close to the line but never cross it. I left the line so i had something to sand back to. Now make sure to ignore your fancy boutique tools and grab your rustic live edge cherry gripped flexible standing strip and take that template back to the line. It is important to make the curve dang smooth as any roughness could vary well create a variable thickness grove later on. After you get your template smoothed out toss it down on your board and draw a line and see how it works. Yeah i like that... .... to be continued.
  5. 4 points
    I still use a striking knife in dark woods. I will highlight them with a white pencil if required. For tight tolerance stuff like finger joints, dove tails or lock sets and precision hinges I will go with tape but, generally that work is so close to my face even my old eyes can see the knife mark
  6. 4 points
    Paddle faster I hear banjo music.....that kinda squeal ?
  7. 4 points
  8. 3 points
    So I've always wanted to try some milling, but living in the middle of a big city, the opportunities don't really present themselves a lot. However, the city of Vancouver maintains thousands of trees along city roads, and they occasionally them down if they are sick or otherwise dying. In these situations, the logs are left on the side of the road, and anyone can help themselves to them. Recently, I came across some reasonably sized logs: some Alder and some Red Oak. I realize they are not the most desirable species around, but for me it was more about the learning experience. Anyway, my wife and I went out and hauled them into the back of my truck, and today I went out and rented at chainsaw and an Alaskan Mill and went to work. I fully realize that I spent more money in renting the equipment than what the resulting wood is likely worth, but it was fun. I know also have a new appreciation for how much work this type of milling is. Here are some photos:
  9. 3 points
    Dave here’s the sample piece of the curly maple in the kiln.
  10. 3 points
    So case at point is not the hp but to keep your legs off of the top of the saw?
  11. 3 points
    3 hp can take all your fingers it one pass. 5 hp can take a leg off above the knee.
  12. 3 points
    We've been so busy, I forgot to update this log... Over the past month, we: Finished drywall, mud, sand and painting had the final electric inspection installed half of the vinyl baseboards Installed the clearvue cyclone and a side note: we have friends who are opening a winery, and he asked if he could store a dozen wine vats, 1100L - 2400L, he was importing for a few months. So we've had a few of those in the shop as well during that time. I wasn't looking forward to the drywall, but given there were no corners to deal with, and only one seam on most of the wall sections, it wasn't too bad. the 12' sheets were a bear to move around, but we managed OK. I had the kids help, my daughter loved putting mud over the screw holes. Painting went quick, I did the Behr "one coat prime and paint", and applied 2 coats of Euro Gray... it turned out really well. There are a few spots where I can see I missed sanding back around screws, but all in all, it looks great. One of the things we wanted was for the kids to feel like they have a place out in the shop too. So I decided to let each of them pick a color, and then they helped paint half a wall. The Girl loves puppy dogs, so she chose a tannish brown. The Boy chose Superman blue. From a "building the shop" perspective, I think we're about done: there's some more vinyl baseboard to install, and one 6" wide section of exposed wall in the corner next to the door, as well as casing the door, but that can all come later. This weekend, I rented a loader, and hauled all the big tools from the garage to the shop. Tablesaw, Jointer/planer, bandsaw, drill press, drum sander, old dust collector, etc. I was very pleased to see the CRC 3-36 I had sprayed on the table saw had mostly prevented rust, and the bandsaw and drill press were still in good shape as well. Last night, I unwrapped the Hammer A3-41, and started assembly. I should be able to get back out there on Wednesday, and get that finished up, and start getting stuff set up. Tonight, I'm going to hang the bottle opener, and my Wife and I will share a good beer to christen the shop. I've got a Belgian I've been aging carefully for a couple of years, I think we'll go with that. This build will be done. Project#1 is a rack for sheet goods... then we start on work benches for the kids. Once those are done, we'll start on the wife's Honey-do list, and other house projects. Thanks to everyone who followed along, and offered advice and/or support! I'll probably have a couple more updates as I add shop furniture, etc. but I'm looking forward to posting in the other categories.
  13. 2 points
    This is something I came up with a while back and have made a few but I thought I'd post a few photos of this one. It's a marriage, wedding, or anniversary sign (plaque?) in Walnut with a Maple cross. This can be hung on a wall or set on the easel I also designed. It's got one coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and one coat of gloss. Enjoy! David
  14. 2 points
    My youngest son wants to get into the hobby and asked if we could build a bench together. I wanted to build something that could grow with him if he decided to stick with this hobby. Poplar base with Mable top and some storage. Simple front vise and a Veritas tail vise.. No BC hardware, just wasn't in his budget Thanks again to Mel for the design work! I'll list out all the costs in the last video.. I think there will be 4 videos even tho we only had about 3.5 days to get this build done!
  15. 2 points
    Stop blocks. If i have any distance that needs to be repeated more than once i set up a stop block. The problem arises when I don't plan things out and needing to remake a cut. This is still easy by putting the piece you need to match on the saw and then set the stop block again. I've started cutting all the pieces i need in a preliminary fashion 1/2" long so i can make sure i have all the parts i need. Then i go back and batch cut them to length. It makes things a bit more manageable planning wise. Being able to plan is pretty key. Figureing out where you need 100% accuracy and where you can fudge 1/128th makes a difference as well. Like on a 6 ft rail for a table if they aren't exactly the same size the length is enough that 1/128th or even 1/64th isn't noticeable. For hand tool work there is the blue tape trick.* This doesn't have to be used JUST for dovetails i can be used for a multitude of things. On walnut it's probably the best option out there accuracy wise. *The above link goes directly to a specific post. There are more on the forum searching may be fruitful but we love our blue tape here and it gets mentioned a lot.
  16. 2 points
    Come on Chestnut post the pic of the Poulan Wild Thing.
  17. 2 points
    I have cut one or two walnut trees.
  18. 2 points
    Building a 26X26 addition on to a friends house for his wood shop, plus my shop is running wide open with projects, don’t retire, you get too busy
  19. 2 points
    You sound like a pro. I'd say the bench is 3/4" the arms look slightly thicker at a full 1". Legs look to me like 3"x3" and also look like they have the veneer trick done to them. Think Gee-Dub has a good write up on it somewhere. So if it were me id' use 5/4 for all the frame parts. I'd resaw 5/4 for the panels and install them in a groove. My guess is a chamfered edge to give that panel look which i like on this piece. Bench could be 4/4 but if you are buying 5/4 already i'd stick with it, Looking at this picture i personally think the bench could do with a bit more thickness to increase the typical masculine style of the Stickley designs.
  20. 2 points
    Non bore hinges limits size and thickness. Max 1/4" x 39" x 15 3/4". I would be very careful if using these at the max dimensions. https://www.kitchensource.com/hinges/ha-361.81.900.htm Lamp is a Japanese high quality brand often used on yachts. Lamp® GH-450 Inset Glass Door Hinge With Catch; 47.8 mm Length x 45 mm Width, Chrome Face Plate, 10 Per Box, 40 Per Carton max 8mm thick (5/16 ") x 23" x 47" 2 hinges & catch . no drill type special order $70 a set.
  21. 2 points
    Often HP is about feed rate. 5 HP and a power feeder makes for easy all day quick ripping.
  22. 2 points
    If you cut the juice groove in 2 stages with the second pass only being 1/32 to 1/16 or so deep the chance of burns is much lower.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Even with an I-Box jig you will need to make minor fit adjustments during different times of the year and different humidity conditions if you try to use the same settings that you used the last time, but doing this is much easier when using an I-Box jig. I must have had almost a dozen wooden box joint jigs in the shop for different sizes of box joints and tight/loose fits. They all went in the burn pile after I bought the I-Box jig. I set it and then make a test cut or two, and it is ready to use. I move the sacrificial piece to a blank position after I have made the final I-Box adjustments and set the blade height. Then I make all of the box joints that are needed without moving the sacrificial strip again, unless I make a change in the settings, or cut so many box joints that the hole develops worn edges, and this only happened on one very large box joint project (1 1/2 days of box joint cutting). If you stay with using our wooden box joint jigs you likely will have the same success with the sacrificial piece. Just position it to an un-cut area after all of your adjustments have been made and make the first cut through it as you begin cutting the box joints. Only change it again if you begin experiencing rough cut edges in your joints. I just added the pictures 2/16/18. The box in the second photo is waiting for more boxes before finish is applied. Who said you can't get good box joints in plywood? I think mine are turning out OK. Charley
  25. 2 points
    All wood [with the exception of fossilized wood] Moves. What worked last year because of expansion and contracting that it does through out the seasons. may or may not be the same sizes this year, unless you seal it. And since it's a shop made jig, you can just make a new one, they're not hard to make at all.