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  1. 12 points
    Tapatalk is back! A few weeks back I started a new table. It is the same design as Marcs (from Youtube). This table will be just under 8' so I had to modify all the part sizes. Basically the same design though. I will try to give a quick run down on where I'm at with this thing. I started it in January. Feels like ages ago lol. Milled the stock for the legs Glued up the legs and squared them up on the shooting board Made the feet and the top supports Cut the mortises Made the tenons Cleaned up all the parts before glue up Glue up Next step was the stretcher . I cut the cheeks on the bandsaw These are huge tenons so I cut the shoulder el hando. Scribed the shoulder lines with marking knife then chiseled back to the line for saw registration. Sawed away Decent fit. I'll post the rest tomorrow. This took forever lol. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  2. 10 points
    Ok here you go Bare wood sanded to 220 Fumed with Janitorial Ammonia for 4 hours and finally a coat of garnet shellac It will get 3 to 4 coats of Waterlox over the next week and once that's dry a coat of Briwax on the top
  3. 8 points
    We had an unusually warm day, so I burned some vacation time to work on the table. One big step was milling the slab for the seating bench top. My DW735 tripped its oveload no less than 4 times while planing this. Final thickness after getting it smooth. Not too bad, although I was hoping for a full 2 inches. And here is how it looks on top of the base. The slab still has to be trimmed to length, and some edge treatment done, but its looking like a bench now, at least!
  4. 6 points
    This is what I accomplished last night I marked out all the through mortises for the wedges. Next up I had to remove most of the waste at the drill press but this piece is so big I needed to make a helper. I clamped a straight cut off to the drill press table to take a measurement at the table saw CA makes little jigs like this so easy Perfect Forstner bit to remove the bulk Chisel the rest Cut the curve and cleaned it up with the spoke shave Test fit. Time to make some wedges Cut them at the bandsaw and planed them to fit just right Just right Made the middle supports That's where I'm at. Gotta clean up the base and make the top. Almost there Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  5. 6 points
    Ross, according to @RichardA, your pickup is pointed in the wrong direction for chip collection.
  6. 6 points
    Making another bending for for the slats and while that's going on i'm working on the slats for the stools and next will be the slats for the chairs. Figured i'd throw some pictures up because i started sanding and when you reach for the sander that means your getting close to done right?
  7. 5 points
    The day job is a bit slow this week so I had some time to knock out a couple of improvements long over due. Flip top Planer/sander cart. Not sure where I originally saw this design but I think quite a few people have used it. Crosscut sled. Kind of a hybrid between the James King and James Hamilton designs.
  8. 5 points
    I attached a pic of the shed I built at the back of our yard. It is 12x14 with 8' walls. Main roof pitch is 8/12 and shed roof is 3/12. I went with the shed dormer off the side to let in more light and also give more interior space. Also was trying to mimic the look of our house. I built this all myself from digging the foundation to laying the surrounding stone so feel free to ask any questions you have. Happy to share my experiences. As far as your design goes..... Are 10' walls a must? On a structure this small the 10' walls are a bit out of proportion with the length of the walls. It just looks a bit strange. 8' walls will give plenty of interior space. No matter what I would run your roof longer on each side (R&L) to create some overhang. The double gable on the front looks a bit odd. If you must do 10' walls you could lessen the front overhang of the main gable and then run a shed roof in place of the smaller gable. That would give you the porch space you wanted and break up the front wall. Would also possibly allow for a window at the top of the main gable.
  9. 5 points
    Well, I know there's lots of drama going on in another thread so, thought I'd toss out a simple project as a short distraction for those interested in some woodworking We needed to hang 2 towels in a very limited space in our master bathroom so, here is my solution.
  10. 5 points
    Q1. How heavy? Q2. Why not a rented lift? What you describe sounds like the perfect application for an extable-boom forklift. I can guarantee that the money spent on the rental, even hiring an operator, is well worth the peace of mind over some home-built contraption that will try to kill you, and probably cost as much as the lift rental. Q3. If a lift is out of the question, can you disassemble things into pieces you can carry up the stairs? Q4. If all the above fail, my suggestion would be to obtain a large stack of timbers. Railroad ties are ideal, but 4x4 posts or landscape timbers can work. create a perfectly level base layer (8'x 8' to go 8 or 9 high), put your heavy on top, and use a car jack to raise it one timber at a time, jenga-style. Yes, this will take a while, but IMO is safer than a jury-rigged crane hoist. And the weight you lift is limited only by the jack you use.
  11. 5 points
    Today I made this: While planing the planks for the table top. Even after removing that pile of shavings, they are a solid 8/4 thick. This is the rig I put together to support these beastly planks. This, with a little hand plane work on the high spots, let me get away without using a jointer. Good thing, as one of these boards would probably crush this dinky benchtop model. I have seriously entertained the thought of clamping these planks to the side of my bench, and using this jointer upside-down like a hand-held model, to do the edges. Its certainly lighter than the oak!
  12. 5 points
    So! I'm finally reaching the end (of the beginning) of the project! I've cut, sanded, painted, adjusted, assembled, adjusted, adjusted, fixed, adjusted, aligned, aligned and aligned, and wired mostly everything... and it moves! Do take into consideration I'm a newbie at this (too) and this is my first CNC of any type, so any advice is most welcome. Now, this is a fairly simple, cheap build in essence, but I've tried to maximize the leverage of the steppers and rely on torsion boxes everywhere to make it as rigid as possible. Let's start with a list of the components/prices etc: 4x nema 17 87oz/in - cheapish at around $16 each with bracket and coupler and around $25 for a 24v PSU 4x 1000mm thinnest supported rails available - chopped 2 into 700mm and 300mm pieces to cover the 3 axis - $120 total lucky find including 8 bearings, bought 4 more for $15 4x threaded rod (1000mm/1000mm/700mm/300mm) - T8?, 8mm thick, 8mm per rotation (agree on the anti-backlash nut... i definitely need those) - don't quite remember but around $65 500w chinesium spindle w/supply $120 Random 1/8 bits around $50 total (straight single and 2 flute, ball nose, tapered, engraving pointy bits, etc) and 1/4 bits from my old router will have to do for now. I'll get some decent ones once i figure out what I'll use the most. Grbl controller and DRV8825 drivers - around $25 Some pink ply - $35 So... around $450 And a few (expected) features: Rigid as possible on the cheap - torsion box bed and gantry, quasi torsion box for the sides (preferred this over making a tall gantry and it proved to be quite rigid) 2'x3' cutting area - didn't quite make it but it was pretty close - should be enough for anything worth cutting with a small spindle Upgradeable - Z should be able to support a 2.2kw chinese spindle, there's enough room and support for proper ball screws and nema 23 steppers if needed, PSU would handle the bigger drivers required Not quite so ugly! - I know it's no beauty queen, but matte black, shiny rails and straight lines looks better than ply edges or flat mdf to my eyes 6000 mm/m rapid rate - that's around the max theoretical rpm of the steppers without losing torque - I've tested up to 4000 no problem, but found out the acceleration is way more important so I'll push that next. Gotta re-read those technical sheets of the steppers Designed so the spindle comes forward beyond the end of the bed, I plan on adding a tilting platform for joinery cuts and vertical pieces Anyway... this past weekend i got it to move. Not sure how fast I should push it but it moved uncompromised for 30 minutes without overheating (steppers still cold, not maxing the amps on the drivers yet) at around 4000mm/m and trying to stop it manually with quite a bit of pressure didn't cause deflection or skipping. I would REALLY appreciate any ideas on speed and acceleration settings/tests for my setup, but otherwise I'll keep pushing it slowly. It hasn't touched wood but I'm quite optimistic it will be up to the task coming this weekend. I really didn't trust a single nema17 to carry all that load. I have no detectable play except for backlash on the lead screws, I'll credit the linear bearings and the rigidity of the torsion box at the bed, sides and gantry for that. I cant bend the parts even a little using my full weight (ok, just 160lbs, but still) I can only hope that translates into better feed rates and/or cleaner cuts. I'll add some pics of the build process. I added the "dividers" forming the core's grid later on to ensure they were pressure-fit. Too many dog supervisors... as usual Yeah, no dedicated space means assembling on top of your table saw as the only flat surface around. Glamour shot of el cheapo lead screws Finally - mostly assembled And a couple videos cause I know people like to see it shake it! I definitely have to increase the acceleration (and maybe the speed too, although max speed is never reached in the smiley test) and dampen the motors. There are some ugly harmonics making the leadscrews bounce up and down at low speeds, fortunately, that moves the spindle less than I could measure properly with a dial indicator There's some misalignment in the X leadscrew that the couple is managing but I'd like to fix as well. I think the whole thing is rigid enough to upgrade the spindle and maybe even the steppers later on. Now THAT would be fun! Let me know what you think! again, if you see anything here that might give me trouble along the way (although I'm quite into this build already), do tell! Same if you have any suggestions or any requests for something you'd like to see. Cheers!
  13. 5 points
    It looks like something that King Arthur's crew would sit on, while hollering for another pint. Well done young'un.
  14. 4 points
    Some more quick post it note projects knocked out. This is a shooting board for small parts, both 90 and 45's from FWW issue 258 that'll work Next I started on a salt and pepper grinder set from Woodsmith issue 234, still need to make the base
  15. 4 points
    Got a few minutes in the shop after the kid went to bed, that never happens. I said screw the drift and set my fence back to 90*. I ran a piece of 6" wide 18" long ash through as a test and it came out a consistent quarter of an inch. So I took a foot long off cut of one of the arms and used it as a bit of a dress rehearsal. I sliced six quarter inch sheets off, jointing between just to do things exactly as I will with the actual arm. It went without a hitch. The slices were consistent thickness and the trips to the jointer was just one shallow cleanup pass. I want to be fresh for the actual arm re-saw session, so everything is set up and ready to go all the way down to a feather board and roller stand. I'm calling it a night.
  16. 4 points
    Ha. I just grabbed a link as an example. They do have all sizes in this model. in Standard and Metric. I actually picked the metric because they fit inside of standard gaps. Example, if you rout a 3/4 slot and you need t clean it up, the 18mm fits inside with out damaging the shoulders.
  17. 4 points
    He also helped roll the glue, but no pictures of that. Moving too fast. Trying to keep him involved as much as possible. This bench will be his one day.
  18. 4 points
    It is more convenient to just make the dovetail on one side. Both sides is unnecessary. Here is an example - creating drawer blades in a chest of drawers ... Creating the sliding dovetail can be done with a saw and chisel, or a saw and plane. Here is an exerpt from an article on my website: Above – the 6mm wide line for the dovetail. A rebate 6mm x 12mm is sawn. A while back I began thinking of a simpler plane that could do both male and female joints. In part this was inspired by Terry Gordon converting one of his side rebate planes to cut sliding dovetails. The weapon of choice for me was the Stanley #79, a double-ended side rebate plane. I liked this as it has a long depth stop and body, both which would provide more registration area than a singe-ended rebate plane. The only modification needed was to add a wedge under the depth stop to alter the cutting angle from 90 degrees to (my preference) 1:7 – this is the same as the other planes I built, and works well with the hardwoods I use. Set the lower edge depth stop flush against the edge of the board. This tilts the plane at the correct angle. Set the blade for a fine shaving. This is a low cutting angle and will pare away the wood quite quickly. The tip of the blade is left pointed and extends slightly below the body. This works in the same way as the blade of a rebate plane extended a fraction beyond the body to ensure that the corner is removed. Note that this plane does not stop cutting when it reaches the desired depth (as the original dovetail plane does). An alternate method is described below. First step is to scribble a contrasting colour on the surface to be removed. This makes it easier to see where- or where not the cut has been made. Above: the yellow shows that there is a smidgeon at the edge left to be removed. Here is another example - Joining the end rail in this sofa table ... All of the sockets were marked, sawn and chiselled. The dovetails were planed with a modified Stanley #79 side rabbet plane. The modification involved an angled fence. The is an article here … Hope this helps Regards from Perth Derek
  19. 4 points
    Got the back panels cut out of ply. Drilled the adjustable shelf pins with the true positioner. It is expensive but well worth the money in my opinion. It is made for drilling drawer and door pulls. Here is the case. Started working on cutting the holes for the screws. I just used my domino. Although it is going to be covered, I am going to cut out plugs using my cnc. I just want to see how they look in case I want to try it on another project.
  20. 3 points
    I spray a pre-cat waterbourne that's quite tough. I'm pretty sure conversion varnish is even tougher. Considering the size of your brood when would you find time to touch up the table and let it dry? Go for the toughest finish possible !
  21. 3 points
    Lookin good! So excited to have another Shane journal! Been too long!
  22. 3 points
    So, not really a woodworking project but I know a lot of us ponder the best ways to heat/cool our shop. When it got really cold after Christmas I decided I'd had enough with crappy wall and space heaters and decided to take the plunge with a mini split. I was able to do 90% of the install myself and hired an HVAC tech do the final connections. Hope you enjoy the video!
  23. 3 points
    Nut, you’re a friggin genius! I would say you’re beautiful but my closet days are not over with! Anyway, my bs is fashioned to where I have no butt or elbow room when using it . I rolled it around some 30* and hell, why didn’t I think of that.
  24. 3 points
    Used my cnc to cut out the plugs for the screws that I made with my domino. Now that I have the case done, I started on the trim. I used dominos to install them. The reason they are out so far is because of the face frame and the hardware that the customer wants to use. I used the trim as a guide to cut the domino in the sides.
  25. 3 points
    @wtnhighlander's Jenga approach to the problem made me remember this video:
  26. 3 points
    @Dolmetscher007 , what sort of tools do you have available? Knowing what you can work with, perhaps we can suggest was to accomplish this with hardwood ply or solid wood. I can see doing it with a circular saw, long T-square / straightedge, and a router with 2 bits. Or a circular saw, T-square, and a drill.
  27. 3 points
    Or , get the necessary tools, and take up woodworking. I hope you can take a joke.
  28. 3 points
    Weekend home along, and i got some stuff done. Cleaned the house shoveled off the deck but none of you care about that. I got the bending form made for the back slats. I kicked around not doing a bent lamination for it thinking it'd just take too much time. In the end i decided to go for it because the excessive waste would bother me. Used some light behind to match the top and the bottom up. This looks worse than it really was because i had my camera flash behind the board firing directly at the gap. I got the slats all layout and ready. I decided to give the first run a shot not cutting the top to pieces and see how it works. Spoiler it worked great so the top stays as 1 piece. Borrowed something from the kitchen to spread the epoxy. Clamped down. Spring back, very similar to marc's results. I feel like the extra effort i made to matching the bending forms pad off. The very little bit that the curve would be off because of the offset gets taken up by the cork i installed on both top and bottom. For those reading this do this for the arms i think it'll make a better bending form also make sure to use cork. If the grain doesn't look like it matches it's because it doesn't i used scraps for the first two back slats. The chairs are going against a wall so I'm using scraps where i feel like i can. Looking at them zoomed in so each 1/8" ply is 2" on my computer monitor the grain match isn't bad. I assume over time I'll forget these weren't from the same board. While that was curing i did this. 2 chairs have the side slats done. The other 2 will get the slats this coming week depending on how long it takes me. I have to cit and mill more slat material beings that i exhausted the pile i had prepped.
  29. 3 points
    I am envious of the spray booth.
  30. 3 points
    Fair question! Couple reasons really, 1) I had some that I needed to use up. 2) It holds up pretty well to the moisture so, seemed like a fair experiment. In the end, it's just not a huge project if I need to refinish it so, I went for it. Live and learn.
  31. 3 points
    I have had one for a few months and after some major trial and error I feel really comfortable with it.I won't bore you guys with the screw ups here's one of my most recent attempts
  32. 3 points
    My helper tonight! drilling the dowel holes!
  33. 3 points
    Got the rear slab glued up tonight. My back hurts! Final width came in at 10 7/8 on the money! I used the Dowelmax for alignment. First time using this tool. Very easy to use. Fit and finish very nice. Slides real nice along work piece. I will have a better opinion of it after I pull the clamps and clean up the glue. I didn’t really get any other pictures. Got on a roll and just cruised right through it. What’s that thing they say about clamps? That’s all I got. It’s enough, but I need more! I plan on getting the front slab glued up tomorrow night. My mother in law is in town this weekend, and I tend to get quite a bit of extra shop time when she is here. My plan is to have a lot of the front slab work done by the end of the weekend.
  34. 3 points
    There is a shelf. 2 glued up 4/4 QWO I made mini I beams. Glued and pin nailed from the inside and the top. Over 7'. I added an inlay of curly to the front of the shelf.
  35. 3 points
    The trick is that things are Rarely 45 and 30. They are often 46 and 29 etc. Start with cheap sticks to dial in the angles. E.g. take some short stock at 45 and 30 and check each corner to check and see if the are long or short at the point.
  36. 3 points
    The foot print. There will be a 4" thick shelf high up and in the middle. Still a lot of work to do...
  37. 2 points
    I need to turn part of the top of a bowl while it's mounted on the screw chuck. I'm leary of bringing the chisels in close to the spinning chuck. This defines the safe sapce and provides a little warning before the real hyper exponential badness would occur.
  38. 2 points
    I would think trying a Grizzly G0690 3 HP 220 volt Table Saw. Since you have one.
  39. 2 points
    Oh no i totally agree. The big thing that i'd love CNC for is templates and begin able to accurately bring my design to life that way. I just don't like them because after sitting being a computer 10 hours a day doing engineering drafting the last thing i want to do is go home and do the same stuff. CNC and veneer seem like they are meant for each other.
  40. 2 points
    This is pretty common with real/unpolymerized tung oil. It takes forever to cure and walnut can have really open pores. The tung oil weeps out of the pores long after the oil on the surface has cured. It sits on the surface partially cured and sticky, until it cures. The solution is to 1) babysit your piece and wipe off the oil 2) keep building more coats, sanding (220 or 320) in between. Eventually you build enough finish that the pores are sealed and the surface oil will cure. 3) thin the oil with mineral spirits. The won't speed curing (contrary to popular belief) but it will force you to use thinner coats, which do cure faster or 4) switch to a polymerized tung oil. This is a tung oil that had been heat treated, so it cures faster or 5) just use mineral oil, since he is making serving boards. Mineral oil is safe for food and easy to apply. Because it doesn't cure, it doesn't weep like tung oil (the weeping is due to heat and expansion that result from curing)
  41. 2 points
    For those of us who use Jack Forsberg's method of cleaning cast iron tool tops, and other bare metal in the shop, I found this 3M clear coat prep Scotchbrite on ebay, and decided to try it. It's for prepping Clear Coat for auto body painting. I only bought the finest no. 3 grade to start with. There are 30 pieces on a roll in the box. That puts the price at less than a buck a piece. It seems to be more tightly woven than the maroon, and green pads that you can buy in paint sections of box stores. This no. 3 Gold is much finer than any of the standard kinds, and being tightly woven, still cuts well. I just played around with a piece this morning on a couple of tools, and am happy to report that this will be the only type of Scotchbrite I'll buy from now on. Going to order the other grades now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-07745-Scotch-Brite-Clear-Blend-Prep-Scuff-07745-Aluminum-Oxide-15-x-4/232330547940?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I put this in the Shop Forum, thinking about it being used in the shop, but it may well be more correct in the product review forum.
  42. 2 points
    I see you got the German Shepard pup out for some shop time.
  43. 2 points
    Going back to your original post, why in the world would you buy the veneer from Oakwood Veneer at $166.78 when you can get it at VeenerSupplies at $71.88. If you have to buy the expensive stuff, just because your buddy recommends it, then adjust your sale price accordingly. And that’s all I’ve got to say about that
  44. 2 points
    That looks amazing! I'd like to try fuming one day. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  45. 2 points
    I'd be surprised if a Carpentry Trim Book would have a how-to on raking cyma. Funny, I just did a google search for raking cyma, and that picture off of my website was one of the first images. Here's one:
  46. 2 points
    Thanks. Trying to take advantage of some free time. My wife isn’t so happy about the amount of time I’ve been spend in the shop. I figure the amount of work I have put in around the house, I deserve to do something for me. She understands, but still not thrilled.
  47. 2 points
    I've never done any hand cut dovetails, so I figured I would give it a try. My first few attempts went as expected, which is to say embarassing. When starting this, I also know, however, that I would be getting some sort of dovetail guide or jig. The main reason I tried without any assistance was mainly to see how a novice like myself could do both with and without a guide. Needless to say, I am sold on using the jig. I initially looked around to see what was on the market, and was close to buying the Veritas magnetic guide, mainly because I pretty much buy everything from Lee Valley, but I found a few online reviews of the Katz-Moses Magnetic Dovetail jig: http://www.katzmoseswoodworking.com/new-products/81-clear-urethane-katz-moses-magnetic-dovetail-jig-and-90-degree-crosscut-guide I ended up buying this for 2 reasons: 1) it was the cheapest (~$45 CAD after shipping) of the ones I could find (relative to Lee Valley and Barron), and 2) it has guides for tails, pins and shoulders all on the same jig - this is the only jig on the market that has all of these. I received it a few days ago, and today got a chance to give it a go. Overall, I'm very happy with it. These are the first two practice joints I made (in poplar that is about 1" thick): They are by no means perfect and are little gappy in places, but that is not the fault of the jig. Using the jig allows you to cut straight and plumb, but you still have to cut to your marking line, you still have to chisel out the waste, etc. I just need more practice. Overall, I'm happy with it and would certainly recommend this jig for anyone who wants to simplify (and cheat a little) the process of making hand cut dovetails.
  48. 2 points
    Let me narrow it down for you. Cherry, white oak, pecan, Walnut, Peruvian walnut, Birch, alder, soft maple, figured maple, figured walnut, the design is so clean and classic you could do almost anything except throw A combination of spalted Maple and Bubinga at it and come out a winner.
  49. 2 points
    Why not make a router sled and flatten it that way. This should get you close to the 1 3/4 thickness.
  50. 2 points
    In some situations, it is possible to make a nearly waste-free cut out curve. Start with a board whose width is a bit more than 1/2 the height of the arc or curve you want. Lay out the TOP edge of the curve from the BOTTOM edge of the board. Cut the curve, and glue the flat side of the off-cut to the top edge of the board to produce the full curve. Flat, square stock is a must. Straight grain hides the glue joint best. Mark a centerline before making the cut, and use it to align the glue up. This is the method I used to make the arched stretches in the project journaled here.