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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/13/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I was going to do this as a running Journal but i finished the table in 6 days. The only reason it took 6 days is because i had to wait for a new saw blade after my resaw king snapped so that added a day. I didn't get to my computer to process the pictures for another few days so it's all going in one big dump. It was time for a new coffee table. The one i had made previously just didn't fit any more and i have a very love hate relationship with it that focuses on the hate more than the love. SO every good project starts off with a design. Here is mine. Tables are easy for me so i had some rough dimensions and didn't really fallow any of them. I used scraps from the Morris chair build and made the coffee table to fit the dimensions of the scraps. Cut the legs from 8/4 cherry and all other parts came from 5/4 cherry. I milled up the side pieces first. Below is the legs side parts and long stretchers on my material cart for transportation around the shop. Cut the tapers on the legs with the bandsaw. They taper from 2" to 1-5/8" over 16" Next was to layout the mortises for the slats on the end. I didn't want to do the slats the same way as on the Morris chair because that's too much work so i figured i'd just do a standard M&T cutting the mortise with the domino and the tenon on the table saw. I cut a practice mortise to get the width right. For the wider slat i did 3 wide plunges overlapping significantly to get the right tenon size. I took a piece of scrap and did a test fit just to make sure everything worked. Then it was off to the races resawing cutting tenons and test fitting. I had the perfect size of curly cherry left over from my TV stand build that I'd been holing on to for a while. This was the perfect spot to use it. Tenon off the table saw. Cleaned up. Love that 140 skew. For small shoulders like this a shoulder plain would be a pain. Cut shoulder on the table saw. I cut the tenon to fit inside mortise without having to round the corners. I don't see the point in including that extra material the glue connection is all end grain so it doesn't really give any strength but takes a long @($&@ time. Test fit There was an extra finesse step before glueup. Everything has been been finished prepped before glue up. I was somewhat careful with glue so that i didn't get much squeeze out and really didn't have much to clean up after. Glued the rail and stretcher in. 5/4 Cherry for the top. Got some nice boards that were just under 8". Man it's nice having an 8" jointer. Transport cart to the planer. For edge jointing i always mark the face that goes against the fence for the jointed edge. Some boards i have to run them different directions so the face is not always the same. When i go to do the glue up i make sure that the face that was against the fence alternates across the glue joint. This way any out of square for the jointer fence is negated. I used some dominos for alignment during glue up. After the top was glued i cut it to size with the track saw and ran an under bevel all the way around with the track saw. Then came some solid time with the smoothing plane to make the top smooth. I never touched the top after this with sand paper except to sand the end grain ends. The smoother doesn't leave a finish ready surface on end grain. Now it's just finish. And a topless picture. And finished and in place pictures. The morrise chair and TV stand are in the background. I have in my future some side tables that will match the style but that's in the future a ways.
  2. 6 points
    One of the first things I did was change the panels in the doors to something with straighter grain and I am real please with the change. A dry fit of everything but the breadboard ends on the top and hinge strips. The drawers are a piston fit with a 1/16 inch clearance all the way around so I used a a bottom runner just to keep them aligned when you open and close the drawer. Just a runner down the center of the drawer case and two in the bottom of the drawer. I taped the center one to the bottom of the drawer then with a double thickness of paper as a spacer I screwed the two outer ones in place in on the bottom of the drawer. I took the center piece and using double stick tape, placed it on the center line in the drawer case then put the drawer in place and carefully pushed it closed keeping it centered by using a 1/16 inch shim on both sides. Once it was closed and flush with the front, I pushed it back out just enough to get a spring clamp on the back end of the slide and then drill and screwed it in place. After this removed the drawer and drilled and screwed the front in place. By doing it like this it allows the center runner to self adjust as you close the drawer. As you can see the first screw snapped of so I had to drill a second hole and I will just plug and sand the first. This process was made easy by the fact that I had the drawer case (circled in the second picture) just setting on my bench, it hadn't been installed at this point. I needed to drill some shelf pin holes but the jig that I have wouldn't go in the corners far enough, so using the jig as a template and a forstner bit, I took a small, thin piece of scrap and made a smaller jig and taped it in place to drill the holes. First thing I actually did when I went out to the shop was glue up the pieces that make up the top and by now that was dry. I ran it through the drum sander a few times, cut the notches in the corners to go around the back legs then sanded it to 180 and lastly added the breadboard ends. The top is 3/4 inch thick and the breadboard ends are just under 7/8 so it creates a nice shadow line. The grain lines up in the top a lot nice then it looks in the picture. when i finished sanding I wiped it down with a little mineral spirits and it really looked nice if Ido say so myself.
  3. 5 points
    This may seem a little goofy but I did a prototype of sorts on the dining table I recently built. We bought chairs that we liked and I built a table to match. While we were shopping for chairs I took note of table sizes and dimensions of the breadboard ends on each of the tables and came away with a rough ratio of 9-10%. So with you example your table being 108 inches long you might start your thinking with 9 or 10 inch breadboards, main top being 90 inches and he breadboards 9 inches each. Now here is were some may thing what I did was goofy. With chalk and a straight edge I drew the overall dimensions that I wanted for my table top on the driveway, yes the driveway because it was the biggest surface I had. Then I drew in different size breadboards until I had something that was appealing to the eye from all sides. On my 65 inch table I ended up with 7 1/2 inch breadboards. I am sure someone here will come in with the proper math and you will be able to figure yours out in a less public way then drawing on your driveway.
  4. 3 points
    Here is a simple and useful scrap wood project. I made mine out of flat sawn oak, and it is about 4 inches wide and 20 inches long. You want some material soft enough that it will naturally develop grooves to fit your unique grill. The grooves you see in that photograph are from a single use. It was a fun little band saw and spindle sander project. After I made mine, several friends wanted one, so I batched out a few of these. I could see this being a good option for people looking to make a little cash doing some quick craft projects, or as gifts for people sick of making cutting boards. People sell various versions of these on amazon for between $13 and $30. They do work quite well. The big appeal is there is no risk of getting tiny metal fibers onto the grill and into your food. I've never personally had that happen but understand it can actually be pretty dangerous if it does. Anyhow, just sharing what I've been up to. With a new baby in the house I haven't had much shop time lately.
  5. 3 points
    What’s wrong with that? Hey, the poor sawmill man needs to eat too. He has to wear overalls, to keep his pants up...
  6. 3 points
    Yes but the center board if cut evenly should be the one board that has evenly distributed moisture. The two outside pieces will have un even moisture. IIRC wood moves when the moisture content changes unevenly among a lot of other factors.
  7. 2 points
    I think it is good to think in terms of proportions. However, I think there is something else to consider. Typically, breadboards ends are not glued over their entire length. There strength depends on the tongue and groove and any pegs that are put in place. Therefore , I would be inclined to make the end narrower to limit the amount of leverage on the edge that could stress the joint. IMO, the width of the long edge boards you are using would look fine and not be too wide.
  8. 2 points
    I think the "B" example looks best. I also like the slats being in 3 sections appearance too.
  9. 2 points
    You can, if you will get your wallet out.
  10. 2 points
    Turn on a lathe, then saw in half?
  11. 2 points
    Very much the way I do my breadboards. Helpful tip that you may already use. I keep the front peg hole at dimension and not slotted. I slot the others. This keeps the front elevations aligned throughout the year and allows expansion to the rear. You piece is looking great and coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing the ride.
  12. 2 points
    Explore the plunge depths possible with each size Domino bit. Some bits will let you plunge 28 mm but they don't sell the tenons in that length. Whenever I set up to make tenon stock a certain thickness I make widths for all 3 settings in 12" - 24" sticks. Then I can cut whatever length I need at a moments notice. Make plenty from scrap it pays off eventually.
  13. 2 points
    Over the past week, I was able to make the glue up for the top of the sideboard. Three long boards edge glued with dominos for alignment did the trick. I still need to sand, but it is starting to look like a top. I'd prefer to run it through the planer after doing the glue-up, but at 15", it is just a bit too wide for the DeWalt 735. I had to take it down to 1 inch thick before the glue-up. Sitting on top at the far end is a breadboard end waiting to be attached. This was my first try at making my own dominos to get an extra-wide tenon. Each one is 1.5 inches wide and fit nicely into an 8mm mortise. The breadboard end mortises should have plenty of room for movement. I'll let the glue dry on these tenons and then cut the slots for the pegs. I'll try to place the slot slightly closer to the main top for a bit of drawboring. But, the pegs will not go through to the top of the breadboard. These peg holes are only on the underside of the breadboard. I also hung most of the doors. I still need to finalize where we want the door pull. I was thinking 1/3 rd of the way down the stile, but now we are discussing placing it starting about 1 - 2 inches below the upper rail. I'll finish fine-tuning the doors before adding the pulls. Without the top attached, who needs door pulls anyway. Plus, blue tape can do the trick. The door pull will be the basic oil-rubbed bronze from Amerock, which will go nicely with other doors and drawers in the kitchen. And I think the color will go well with the sapele.
  14. 2 points
    I have a bit of experience using the Mona Lisa (Speedball Art) metal leaf products. They make a sealer that did not dull the leaf in my experience. It will dull the leaf if applied improperly (additional costs before dry, excessive brushing, etc). Whatever you go with, I’d do a test piece to be sure. Full disclosure: I am related to someone involved with the company.
  15. 2 points
    Phenol is made from benzine (which is from oil) is used to make phenolic resins & used to saturate very thin brown paper. Stacks of these sheets are bonded under heat & pressure. Melamine resin is made from urea ( from natural gas) is used to saturate white or colored/ printed paper as a top sheet. Stacks of these sheets are loaded into a press with a heated platen between each stack. 49x 97 and 61 x 145 are common sizes available. Those are the sizes after trimming, straight out of the press is a bit bigger. It is usually made in 3 thickness. Vertical grade is the thinnest, post form grade is a bit thicker( and made to be heated & bent like for countertops) and standard grade which is just under 1/16 th thick. They also make very thin sheets without the melamine top sheet and sell it for use as a backer/balance sheet for the underside of desks/tabletops. It's easy to crack or tear backer sheets if mishandled. Same goes for vertical grade. Use post form or standard grade laminate for desks, tabletops or router tables. Wilsonart is probably the biggest laminate manufacturer, definitely bigger than Formica.
  16. 2 points
    Melamine is a resin soaked paper product that is bonded directly to a sheet ( usually particleboard). Laminate is a stack of phenolic soaked brown paper sheets with a layer of melamine on top. For the stiffest router table top use laminate on both the top and the bottom faces. It's usually applied with contact cement. I've applied tens of thousands of sq ft of laminate in the last 40 years or so. Glad to answer any questions you may have. MDF or particleboard are good substrates for laminate.
  17. 2 points
    Has anyone figured out a way to get a prescription Sawstop? Pretty sure I can swing the $10 copay.
  18. 1 point
    Don't know how I missed this post when it was fresh, but sometimes I just go to my shop and sit. Maybe half an hour, maybe more. Sometimes I put the air filter on high just to block out the world.
  19. 1 point
    Chesty got it. If it's wet, the center will be there least likey to move severely. Are you at full 8/4? If it's like the 8/4 here which may be a true 7/4, I don't like to attempt 3 pieces out of it at 1/2". May be me, may be the wood may be both but resawing boards that close to final dimension, essentially guarantees at least goes wonky on me. Hope you have better luck.
  20. 1 point
    If the resaw is into three boards then it seems to me that the center one would be the wettest. So would it be useful to "favor" the center board in the resaw by letting that one be a tad thicker than the two outer pieces? This would give you a bit more material to work with if there is some drying and movement.
  21. 1 point
    Careful, it's the snow he's talking about.
  22. 1 point
    If nothing else, that will make me avoid turmeric tea from now on. Aside from glass, I'm not sure any finish would hold up to that stuff.
  23. 1 point
    Looking great, Chet! I'm stealing that drawer alignment technique...
  24. 1 point
    Dave, just a thought but would it be easier to engrave the numbers in the board as a whole instead of in small individual pieces, then cut them to size?
  25. 1 point
    I see the shop as my sanctuary. It has been a good place to tune up my self and attitude when it's getting out of balance. When I'm stressed I rarely do anything complicated. Usually I clean the shop, sort wood and do some shop maintenance.