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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/19 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  2. 12 points
    Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  3. 8 points
    We have a new addition to the family! I don't know about you guys, but the drive home from the hospital is nerve wracking. I don't think I exhaled for two hours. Gotta say though, SCM knows how to build a car seat! Once we got it home I could breathe a sigh of relief. A 765 lb baby is not easy to handle. 848 lbs in its car seat! They're so cute when they sleep. Whoa! Pulled herself right up! Settling right in! Beautiful baby if I do say so!
  4. 8 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  5. 8 points
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  6. 7 points
    The molds with the Plumbers epoxy putty came out pretty good. The reason you see the plastic wrap in a mass around it on the old sash, was so I could take those gloves off, and knead it into good contact with my fingers, before it set up. More tuning on the molding plane today, since I now have a good pattern from the mold. Used a couple of round molding planes, and a sharp chisel. More grinding on the iron, sharpened it, and ran a test piece. A couple of small tweaks on the iron, and we'll be ready to run the profile. I thought I got lucky on this first go. We stopped here for the day, at lunch time. I can see where they liked this European Beech for molding planes. I've never worked any wood that would be better suited, or works as easily, and still seems plenty durable. We'll make multiple setups on the table saw to take some of the bulk away first, and this molding plane will just finish up the profiles. We have air conditioning in this old house that I use, but I left the table saw work for another day. Will be cutting grass until dark tonight, starting after the Sun goes down some. More another day on this.
  7. 6 points
    So that part where I forgot to cut grooves into the legs for the back.. gave me an opportunity to buy a rabbiting bit. I'll still need to do some chisel work with this to get the plywood in. I sanded the main case up and put 4 coats of ARS on it. I went and picked up maple plywood, which I have rough cut to size. I also ordered the glass sides. Came to 9 5/8 wide by 57 1/2" tall. Started on the shelves. I had to resaw 10/4 or 12/4 walnut. Can't remember exact thickness. It broke my bandsaw blade so I had to buy a resaw king. I skip planed because they were pretty flat to start with. This is where I learned that even though I had put a new helical head in my 735, it did not have what it takes to plane 12" wide 3" thick walnut. This has got me looking at maybe picking up a 15" grizzly soon. Some looks at the boards with mineral spirits Bottom shelf was cut first. Mostly to length. I got half inch pieces of glass coming so I'll wait until I get those in to make my final cuts. I'm also waiting on getting them in to figure out how to put the shelves in because I ... just have no idea. I'll take recommendations. I did leave the bottom shelf protruding up from the rails. I like it like this. Today I glued the top
  8. 6 points
    You might conseder showing that article to you client. If your wife is the client I take no responsibility.
  9. 6 points
    Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  10. 5 points
    I believe I did a thread on the style of clamp rack I settled on a while back. The "v2" design was primarily Bessey K-Body focused so that gives you a time frame of when I started using this form. My deep-reach and other "odd" clamps often ended up in the raters or who-knows-where. I wanted to improve that and ended up with a variation on the form that I already use which is this: The variation is a narrow overall, three-arm affair. This allows me to hold deep, large head, and other odd clamps while spacing the fixtures on the cleat as best suits the situation. In my defense, the shop is non-operational right now . . . . . . so I made these with a circ-saw, bandsaw and a drill motor. The Big Gator drill guide came in handy. Parts and sub-assemblies. Got these things up off the floor finally. I always make a few spares of these sorts of things as making a few more now is only a fraction of the effort of making more later. Now I think I have enough room to start moving machines into their general positions so I can set them up.
  11. 5 points
    Coop, check out this box a guy made for me. The guy has some good tiger hard maple.
  12. 5 points
    Bmac, check out this white oak table top that I cut today.
  13. 5 points
    I should have added in my original post - I have been doing this for a while for new family babies. It comes with a little note saying that this is for storing "firsts" in the baby's life. Hospital bracelet when they come home, lock of hair from first hair cut, candle from first birthday cake, Bandaid from first scraped knee, first report card, AND first BAD report card, key to their first car along with first speeding ticket and so on.
  14. 5 points
    I do love me some mesquite! Mesquite is not the easiest wood to work with, but it's worth the extra effort, IMO. It's high in mineral content which makes it very abrasive to tools. Here's a good write up about the lumber. One thing I will say is that I LOVE the smell in my shop after milling it. Bear in mind that it's roughly twice as hard as red oak, so carbide tooling is very highly recommended. It also has a great deal of color variation, so matching boards can be a challenge. When finished with oil to bring out the figure it's on par with many exotics, and priced accordingly. I'm a west Texas oil trash guy and grew up with it, so I have a real appreciation for finding something beautiful in such an otherwise desolate landscape. When people ask about the projects I've made with it they're shocked, to a person, when I tell them it's mesquite. I get the bulk of mine from Faifer & Co. outside San Antonio, TX. Here are a few of the pieces I've used mesquite in. Floating top table Cutting board with turquoise Medicine cabinet Our kitchen cabinet fronts. Cherry frames. Large charcuterie board for Alison's niece. Black palm feet. Morris chair. Rookhee campaign chair. Just realized I may have a problem...
  15. 5 points
    Another stressful step done- laying out and drilling holes for the tuners. Layout would have been easy if I had made a template before rounding the edges of the headstock or if I took a few minutes to draw it in CAD, but what fun would that be? The tuner pegs are 6mm and the bushings are something like 8.7mm. The pegs are not centered on the tuner, and there are left/right tuners so you do have to pay attention drilling and installing. I used a compass for most of the layout. I wanted the tuners to follow the curve of the headstock and be evenly spaced along the length of it. You may be able to see some of my layout lines here. Nothing about this gives the warm and fuzzies. The 6mm drill bit hole was too snug for the pegs, I probably should have used the 6.5mm bit. I used a reamer to open them up a bit. Then used a special reamer bit to counterbore for the bushings. Ended up with a bit of tearout, but most of it will be covered by the bushings. Glad that’s over!
  16. 5 points
    So I've found my niche. Dice bowls for gamers. Keep your dice contained in style. I've been getting more and more commissions, and I'm not complaining! This weekend I'll be working with some honey locust, paduk and spalted ambrosia maple. Here are some of my latest.
  17. 4 points
    Cliff, I know mistakes can be discouraging, but perserverance is what its all about. You are doing great!
  18. 4 points
    Coop, I agree, the softer look is appealing to me too. I got more done, and the going has been slower than I expected. This construction technique is somewhat new to me and some of the domino placements are challenging. Also since I've changed the shape, I've had to adapt some of the steps which has turned out ok but has resulted in me scratching my head as to how to get a few steps done. I don't mind this part of the build though because it is breaking new ground for me and opening me up to new solutions I can utilize later. So here's were I'm at; I spend the first hr in the shop with the router, did not enjoy it. I pattern routed the seat frame, the cushion boards, and routed the rabbit for the cushion in the seat frame; After routing I rounded the edges of the seat frame with a rasp, mainly because I was just done with the router. I also took an hour to clean up the shop after the routing. Next is fitting the seat frame to the chair. To do this you clamp the chair together with the back rest in place. Than mark were you want the seat, Jory has some estimates. I then clamped two 1" strips on that line and Jory uses a neat technique to make a template to get your cut lines for the seat frame. He takes 2 pieces of 1/4" ply, puts them on the line for the seat and in the correct position one the chair frame and where the plywood overlaps he secures them. I used tape but he used an air nailer. So here's the template in place; I then took that and laid it over the seat frame to mark my cut lines. I used a circular saw for this cut, I think I should get a track saw, would have been easier; After the cut I put the frame in place and found out my slenderizing and shaping of the back leg caused a slight problem; So I was able to reposition the seat frame a little more forward, but it will be a problem with the dominos. Jory puts 2 in the back leg and 1 in the front. I will put 1 in the back, because I'm concerned with the width. I will increase the size of the domino though from 8mm to 10mm. Here's the chair clamped up, sat in this carefully and it felt great; While clamped I took the 1" strips out and marked the underside of the seat frame for domino placement, then unclamped; Here's the domino setup for domino slot; Turned out fine, just took a steady hand, Jory uses a template for this as a guide, my design change made that more difficult so I freehanded it;; Next I needed to find out where that position sits with the seat frame. Put the seat frame in place and marked the center of the domino on the frame; This worked, as I eyeballed the mortise into the seat frame. Came out very much dead on, even though I didn't need to be dead on, just needed to be close. What I really needed to be was consistent. Next it was a dry run; Took a seat for a few minutes relieved I worked my way through those last few steps. Then I marked some areas I need to shape; Took things apart and grabbed the rasp; One interesting problem was my workbench was not quite wide enough to sit the chair on. So I made it bigger with my vise and a 1" strip; Next is dry run with the second chair, sand all the parts and glueup. Moving toward the end. Thanks for looking.
  19. 4 points
    Beautiful, Chet! Love the species combo. I suspect the child will hear enough biblical references in his lifetime to appreciate the subtle personalization your adhered to...
  20. 4 points
    If you’ve never used a band saw, I’d buy coffee for an experienced hand at the community center. I’d not suggest first cuts on project material.
  21. 4 points
    Got some work in on this project yesterday before the heat became too much. I initially wanted to get the seat frames glued up. But after reviewing the project on Marc's site I realized there were a few things to get done with on the chair sides. I also was very anxious to do some shaping of the sides and see what the chair would look like with my modifications. So I turned on some Simon and Garfunkel to get into the Mid-Modern groove and hoped I could find my inner Maloof. First order of business was cutting the legs to length. The project, if followed, gives you a seat height of about 17.5". To me that is a dining room chair height, so I dropped it down 1/2". To get the measurements of the front leg you measure from the leg/side joint; For the back leg you measure from the very back end of the side piece. But my alterations changed the shape so the measurement would not be accurate anymore! Fortunately I had the foresight to make a second template at the regular dimensions. That came to the rescue; This shows the difference from the original at the point I need to measure the back leg length; That distance was 1"; So now I just added an inch to the leg measurement; Use a straight edge to draw your cut lines and off to the bandsaw; Then I used that side to mark and cut the other 3 sides; The plan calls for tapering the outside of the legs down to 1.25" in the front and 1" in the rear. The taper starts from where the leg joins the side. Jory used a portable planer and belt sander to get this taper. I was able to cut most of the waste off on the bandsaw, then used the RAS. Here's the cut line on the front leg; And back leg; After that Jory rounds over the edges of the side pieces with a .25" roundover bit. Well my adversion to routers (only use when necessary because of the mess) meant I opted to use rasps. This allowed me to personalize the roundovers. First I wanted a more delicate foot, Jory's was too boxy for me. I made some quick patterns and drew them on the bottom of the feet; Next it was the rasp and sander with an interface pad that gave me a nice shape to the feet; My roundover was more severe at the bottom of the leg and gradually was reduced as you went up the leg. Then I did some heavy roundovers on the outer side of leg/side interface. These I really like; So this gives me a softer look and I'm liking that. Here's a few picks of the back and sides together to see how the new look is shaping up; I like it so far. Finally, I have all the pieces for the seat frame cut to dimension and all the correct angles cut. Just need to domino and glue at this point. I'm finally moving forward with this project.
  22. 4 points
    Here are a few, including proof that it's indeed Texas mesquite!
  23. 4 points
    That has to be the most terrifying drill press shot I've ever seen.
  24. 4 points
    Ok, getting back to the Hank after a detour with a surfboard. This post is picture heavy, covering the glue up of the chair sides, pattern routing of sides, 42 degree cuts for the backrest joint, fitting sides to back, cutting out contour of back and putting scallop in backrest. Dominos join the sides, culls cut out of the pieces to help with the clamping of awkward pieces, titebond 3 used; Here's what the weird shaped sides look like after glueup. Next I drew the outline of the pattern on the sides and cut the chair sides close to the line on the bandsaw and routed the pieces using the template. Cleaned up the template then routed; Next it's cutting the 42 degree joint for the backrest. It's a hairy operation putting the front leg against the aux fence on the table saw; To cut the opposite side you need to reposition the aux fence forward and start the cut between the back leg and the backrest, hard to explain so I'll let the picture do the explaining, here's the setup; Final cut joint surfaces, two sides put together to confirm correct angle and symmetry; Sides ready for dominos; Backrests were also cut at a 42 degree cut, much more simple operation and just used the miter gauge on the table saw. Here's one joint dry fit; Next it was back to the bandsaw to cut out the backrest profile; Outline for a scalloped/dished out area at the top of the backrest; Completed this operation using the Festool RAS 115, my favorite gross shaping tool. These two pics are after shaping one of the backrests. There was absolutely no cleanup of dust needed, the vac picked up almost all of it. This is not doctored, literally finished shaping and then took pic. This is why I love this tool, rapid stock removal and minimal dust; There will be dust if you are shaping smaller pieces, but with a large flat area like this dust is negligible. Next job is to glue up the seat frame, I already have those pieces roughed out. Thanks for looking.
  25. 4 points
    Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  26. 3 points
    Quick, easy project to build a vertical lumber storage rack..
  27. 3 points
    I think 3 narrower slats is the ticket. I might have to make a traditional mortise. ... Gasp!
  28. 3 points
    But gee-dub, you've got your clamps upside down again.
  29. 3 points
    I was under the wrong impression. After 2, I now have a clear understanding Sure as hell happens a lot easier when you’re not trying. Took 5 months with the first. We got two nights in month and half span that we successfully got my daughter to sleep in her crib instead of our room. Turns out we celebrated just a little too much.
  30. 3 points
    Mark J, here’s two cow pee poplar bowls.
  31. 3 points
    It makes sound! I rounded the outer edges of the nut and saddle, then used a small triangular file to make the grooves for the strings. I decided to route the strings down inside the uke body, so I used a pen drill and 1mm bit (1.5mm for the C string) to drill down through the bridge and body. I have a good bit of setup work left to do- shorten the nut and saddle, level and crown the frets, polish frets, final shaping of the nut, oil the fingerboard and bridge, and some other final touchups. Then of course I need to take some real pictures of it, only have cell phone pictures so far.
  32. 3 points
    It’a slooowww road, I picked the wrong time in life to start a hobby I have no previous experience in. With two kids under two, I barely have enough time to finish a thought let alone cut a piece of wood. But I do manage to squeak 30 min here or there when something absolutely needs done, and I usually spend the last hr of my night winding down reading the net soaking up info in hopes one day I might actually be able to put the stuff I’m reading to good use. Thank you guys for the quick responses!
  33. 3 points
    When I make a new jig it becomes the brightest star in my "shop" so it gets hanged in place of one of the former brightest stars, which in turn gets dumped into a storage room, never to be found again.
  34. 3 points
    If I had to rely on any of these to build a project, I might as well just go inside and watch soap operas. Give me a Big Chief Tablet and a #2 pencil any day
  35. 3 points
    Just look in the mirror Coop, there’s a great woodworker looking back at you
  36. 3 points
    $150.00 at the church auction Sunday. Not too bad I think for a silent auction
  37. 3 points
    THANK YOU to everyone who responded. Ultimately, I was able to achieve the angle I needed to get the job done. And I am happy with it. A big THANK YOU to TOM KING with the drill block idea. As all of you (experienced) wood workers know, jig blocks provide angles needed w/out problem. While I knew jig blocks work, I was unsure (do to inexperience) if the bit would bite into the jig, and in turn, mess up my angle. Miraculously, the SPADE drill bit did not compromise the block jig hole! By using two wood clamps (those Craftsmen wood clamps are truly amazing BTW) I was able to clamp the jig tightly to the post. And with a little ingenuity, I was able to align& find the center of the jig's diameter to the center where the hole needed to be bored. I drew a center line on the block's angle. Keeping the drill bit true, I was able to "eyeball" the bit vs. center line. Before, once again, I was afraid of moving away from center line. Ultimately, I need to trust my abilities more often. Once again, thank you everyone here! Job accomplished.
  38. 3 points
    In the pictures one looks a little darker than the other, it’s mostly the light in the shop but one is slightly darker, and I found a couple of small spots I missed with the shellac but that can be dealt with easy enough I think, just thought I would throw in this shot of them together
  39. 3 points
    This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!
  40. 2 points
    Sorry this was the concept for the one table that is goign to be different from the rest. It's not the slats for the side in question. I was thinking just 1 larger slat similar to how a 2 panel A&C door would look. though 3 narrow slats may work as well i might have to look at that tonight. I'm not sure... For the final piece I'm going to try and find something that is pretty strait grained and just go for it. If it breaks down the road so be it. Can't learn from failure if nothing fails. Though I'm not puling very hard on it to get it to open up like this. It's fairly simple I made slices from different directions on the band saw that went 7/8ths the length of the board and stopped. Then you just pull the piece apart and i put spaces in to stop it from pulling back together like a slinky.
  41. 2 points
  42. 2 points
    Mike said we had thrown out that Harbor Freight wet grinder years ago, so we didn't waste any time this morning looking for it. Just as well though, as my diamond paddle files were in the top of the Sharpen toolbox, and I was able to round those corners right off with them. I also found an xx-fine diamond rat tailed file, and that did a good job on the inside the the curves. With the molding plane ready to go, we started in on running multiple setups on the tablesaw to waste most of the material on the outside of the molding profile. I didn't leave much work for the molding plane to do, but didn't start in on that today. I just indicated where the corners of the shoulders were with the first cuts, so there shouldn't be any tearout there when the grain goes the wrong way. Cutting rabbets where the blade exits a side is messy without the overarm DC, but this is one of those jobs that it gets in the way. The originals have a lot of tearout on some pieces, but it's not something anyone notices.
  43. 2 points
    Excellent call on the handle!
  44. 2 points
    I do the same thing. The problem is the waiting... Generally speaking I hold off for a week to ten days before adding any finish.
  45. 2 points
    That's awesome!! It is an amazing piece!
  46. 2 points
    But is she easy? I mean is it easy, is it easy?
  47. 2 points
    Combine is what you are looking for. It's a tool that is used to subrtract a solid from another solid. Fur turnings revolve is your friend and combine (subtract or cut) is how you'd remove the portions in the quadrants like you typically do.
  48. 2 points
    And his website is worth the time to read!
  49. 2 points
    These are what we're replacing. The original sash have 5/8" wide muntins, and one of the reasons for the importance of this house is the transition in architectural details from the early 19th Century to the mid 19th Century. This is one of the last things we're changing that was done to this house in the 1980's. Two windows had been replaced on the back of the house. The sash have large, over inch and a quarter wide, ugly muntins in the replacement sash.
  50. 2 points
    I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.