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  1. 7 points
    Got a call from the camera store that I built the lens case for (two years ago). He wants 3 more.
  2. 6 points
    I've gotten to an exciting point on the chairs. I left off with the legs half finished and some parts rough cut. I cleaned up the other side of the legs. They fit together nicely. I placed the legs in pairs trying to keep all the legs from the same board together so grain and color would match closely. I positioned the unfavorable grain towards the inside. I wanted to start with the backs of the chair and work my way forward. I took the measurement that would space the legs apart and cut the 3 rear pieces, the headrest, the bottom back rest, and the bottom rail. I then milled the material strait and square and cut to length using a miter gauge. After using a miter gauge I find myself unable to go back to the mitersaw for critical work. With the parts cut I was able to start laying out joinery. This will all be floating tenons with the widths dependent on how much space I have available. I marked out 2 legs with the tops and bottoms of the boards and then the center of the joinery. I used this to cut the joinery on the first char (chair A). I then did a dry assembly so i could determine the length of the back rest. I have deviated slightly from my original plans and have added a bottom back rest part. This allows the joinery on the back rest to be strait and square and leaves me free from trying to deal with a nasty angle that may change from chair to chair. Then i grabbed a piece of 6/4 material and cut it in half thickness wise. I was able to plane it out to around 16mm thick. It's a bit thick but I like the stability and it allows substantial joinery. I used a template to mark the rough shape and clean up on the router table. I used the painters tape and superglue trick here as I didn't think the time to make 2 complicated sleds was worth it. I then took the back rest cut to shape and length and marked out some floating tenon joinery and tested it out. Everything worked out great. So i took the 2 legs and used them as a story stick to mark each leg for joinery locations and length. I first cut to length. All 12 legs then had their joinery mortises cut. Following that I took the back rest parts and cut the matching joinery in them. All the mortises are 8mm thick. The momeny I was waiting for was to do a dry assembly of the one back rest I had finished. I'd been waiting years to finally see my idea in the physical form instead of just an idea on paper. I have to say that it was a long wait and I think I'm going to love these chairs when they are done.My goal is to have 3 chairs sweep right like the one above and to have 3 chairs sweep left. This way 2 chairs on the sides of the table will either sweep away or towards each other. This bit was the other aspect that using a flat back rest made easier. If i wanted this to work out this way I'd have had to make 2 complicated routing jigs to accomplish my goal. I have a lot more work left. I still have a lot of back rests to cut out. Then each part needs to be cleaned up sanded rounded over and completely ready before glue up. After it's glued up planing surfaces will be a lot harder to accomplish.
  3. 3 points
    I stopped at my parents house today and my dad gave me 21 pieces of 1"X4" quarter sawn white oak. the board are 36" to 50" random lengths. Based on my math It work out to about 24.5 B/F of lumber. At the current price at my local lumber store of $8.33 B/F that is about $205 worth of lumber. Some of the wood has been faced and some is still rough cut. He says he has more oak somewhere and some maple and pine. Jeremy
  4. 3 points
    The problem is it only needs to be hit a little with a block sander.. mission and shaker are mainly square all around. A lot of people over do furniture with too much routing. Kitchen cabinets are the same routing everything. Especially Roman ogee bits on face frames. Way over done... My theory is "less is more"....
  5. 3 points
    I saw a new quote today: "To err is human. To really screw up, you need a chainsaw."
  6. 2 points
    Beats a day in the office, that's for sure. Milled up 2 cherry and 1 walnut log. All total about 2.5 hrs of hard labor. I'll sleep well tonight. Still have a few walnut and cherry logs to harvest this winter. So many chairs to make.
  7. 2 points
    Looking great Drew, attention to detail when making multiple pieces is critical and you’re nailing it sir, those are going to be awesome, I may not be so frightened of making chairs after your journal is done, very good work all around
  8. 2 points
    Those will sit outside under cover for at least 2 summers, likely longer. I then rotate them into the shop where I try to let them sit for a few more months. I can get them down to about 8-9% that way.
  9. 2 points
    Take a hint from G&G, and make the bread board oversized in all dimensions, and round all the corners. No matter how much the panel shrinks, it still looks intentional.
  10. 1 point
    Funny, the only two saws I know of, that come with a rack & pinion fence, are Dewalt, and Northfield...seems to be a gap, there.
  11. 1 point
    Dunno about a pet mule, but Anne Briggs seems to think highly of her miniature donkeys! No bigger than @RichardA's little house-mouse, Boo.
  12. 1 point
    I had to make a table setup at work. It worked pretty good. I'm not much for the cart to saw deal . I'm too use to as a cabinet maker pulling out the rack one end on the saw lifting the other to cut.the same when I cut melamine in commercial. I don't have room for it in my garage. Right after I built this saw setup they bought a sawstop..
  13. 1 point
    I’m really digging this build. Those are going to be nice.
  14. 1 point
    I agree, given the project. Do as Mamma suggests and sleep easy tonight, or maybe not and reap the benefits! Happy wife, etc.
  15. 1 point
    Looking great Nut! If you were to glue up the legs in the first pic, there would be no glue line! The “sweep” in the backs are, as others have pointed out, is a compliment in your detail to your work. Nice job bud. I bet Megan is impressed!
  16. 1 point
    You don't want to put two tops together. That's a no-no. Even a solid top with a 3" solid wood band is a no-no... cherry and oak will move at different rates. It's your table, enjoy....
  17. 1 point
    Nice work, Drew! In the syraight-on shots of the partially assembked frame, the back legs appear to bow out to the sides where the seat frame joins them. Is that really part of the shape, or just an artifact of the camera angle?
  18. 1 point
    Luckily the trees I have access to are typically fallen in the road right of way or really close. Most I'dhave to do is tug it a few feet with my pickup. I like the idea of a mule though, I could try and sell it as a pet and maybe could have that instead of the dog that Megan wants.
  19. 1 point
    You could probably make the subtop a doughnut shape with the center not filled in to save material. I like the idea. I hope you share the end result with us.
  20. 1 point
    Here’s a bit of G&G breadboard end treatment. The ebony slides with wood movement and keeps the mortise covered.
  21. 1 point
    Just took alittle time away from the woodworkers. To much of anything will make you sick.
  22. 1 point
    I like them and continue to buy them even though I have too many clamps. I decided I liked them over the Kreg slide bar automaxx clamps and selling them . There not a good cabinet clamp but better for furniture making....lighter duty...
  23. 1 point
    I guess his main question was design for wood movement or aesthetics. To answer that question ultimately design for wood movement as that will cover both. Designing for aesthetics may cause the table to fail in a way that will ruin the aesthetics.
  24. 1 point
    Might need a bit more detail but I'm afraid your 2nd sketch would not far well. In that sketch you have grain intersecting perpendicular. This would cause long grain to try and restrict the expansion and contraction of the boards perpendicular to that long grain. I made a table like that once .... yeah it exploded. I"m not sure the effect you are trying to go for but if there is a 2 tone unfortunately the best way may be a subtop out of the different species. Make sure that both the subtop and top and oriented in the same direction and they should expand and contract similarly enough to not cause problems. Yes they may be "out of round" as seasons change but i doubt customers are going to bring in a compass and try and prove that. Unless of course these tables are going in the math department or engineering department at a local university.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    does it have to be flush with the top or can you set it back say 1/2"
  27. 1 point
    What do you mean by a contrasting layer beneath? We made restaurant tables from 8/4 for years . If you restrict it's movement it will cup on you. You have a moisture issue. Sometimes a sustrate with veneer or thin pieces followed by epoxy would be best...
  28. 1 point
    No real world experience, but I think you are correct that plan B will tend to push itself apart. This could be mitigated with some expansion space between each quadrant. But then when the beer spills....
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Working in a cabinet shop most time I break edges with the orbital sander, it's just the fastest most convenient way, and Billy Jack is right if they painting of staining they want everything done the exact same way. Things like trim and moulding that will be installed and finished on-site by someone else, I usually just take a swipe with a sanding block. Large roundovers get done with a trim router followed up with a quick ROS sanding. On personal furniture items i usually break the edge by hand with the same grit i finish the rest with.
  31. 1 point
    My level of respect for Finn just went up 10 fold. They host 3d CAD models of all of his main furniture on that website for free download. Included a screen shot of it open in cad... One of his books also free. https://issuu.com/onecollection/docs/houseoffinnjuhl_catalogue
  32. 1 point
    I always say - if i die for some reason, I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them...
  33. 1 point
    I also as some others here am influenced by shaker, mission. And me. I like form follows function. I don't mind plywood on the inside but solid is better. I like frame and panel construction. I love figured, matched grain panels. If the client has the wallet for the figured, I get accolades towards me that belongs to the wood. Most of us here know some of the wow factor is about the wood. It doesn't bother me that sometimes I get credit for the beauty of the wood. I look at a highly polished panel and grin. And don't say a word...
  34. 1 point
    I wanted to share this with you Bmac and get your opinion. I really like this chair and i feel like it fits your style somewhat. https://finnjuhl.com/collection/45-chair
  35. 1 point
    Felder has an excellent slider and they also just came out with a flesh reacting safety system that does not damage the blade and can be reset in a minute. I am not in your league, but I would definetly give their product a look.
  36. 1 point
    I hope someone takes my tools after I'm not using them and continues to make stuff with them even if that does seem a bit tacky.
  37. 1 point
    I just turn off my hearing aids.
  38. 1 point
    I use the the ear muffs that came with my 40 caliber Beretta pistol. Just right!
  39. 1 point
    Well order was placed the Supercell unit today and it should be ready to ship first part of next week.
  40. 1 point
    Tom and I are probably the minority’s. I know, torpedo to the stomach one day!
  41. 1 point
    +1 to Tom's advice. Especially with no splitter!
  42. 1 point
    My advice for a table saw is get the SawStop. I had the Grizzly first but getting the SawStop was a night and day difference. In addition to the safety feature, it is simply the best built, best designed, best supported piece of equipment I have ever owned (and that includes tools from Powermatic, Laguna, Grizzly, Jet, etc.). I know there are many who feel that SawStop is all hype or don't like how they came to be a major player in the field, but as an amateur woodworker who can use all the help I can get to do decent quality work, the SawStop has been worth every penny. I also agree with the advice on the planer and jointer. Both of mine are Grizzly with helical heads and I have been VERY happy with them. See, I am not a Grizzly basher after all! :-) Good luck! Jim
  43. 1 point
    Finally got to glue-up for the box. Sanded everything from 100 to 220, did a little tune-up on a couple spots that I left till last, then dabbed some Titebond II on the pins and squared it up. Inserted the false top and now it's taking shape - permanently. So I got out the scraper since this sapele requires a lot of surface prep. Never enough, it seems. Still haven't decided on a finish, but AquaCoat seems to flatten it out quite well. Although I'm starting to wonder if I really need it to be perfectly flat; it's not a table. But it is square. I got stopped because I was running low on propane for my heater and it's snowing today; and a friend dropped by to give me an over/under Beretta 12 GA shotgun... That's a show stopper for sure.
  44. 1 point
    Moving ahead and I'm really pleased with the progress. Completed the front leg joints. I left them bulky to have flat surfaces for the routing, after the routing I placed my pattern over the leg and shaped them some. In this pic the leg on the right has already had a visit with the bandsaw and the one one the left is headed there. Both side supports after bandsawing, starting to take shape; Front legs went quickly; And I think we are starting to see the chair form, but still bulky; Next I did an offset turning of the front legs, following the same steps as the Maloof Rocker. Then cut out the front and back seat cross supports. Dominoed the front joint and it's looking good; And the money shot; I'm really happy how it looks. Still way bulky in some places and I need to attach the back seat support. Also need the back cross supports and headrest cut out. Once thats done and those pieces are fitted I'll meet again with the upholstery guy and get the shaping tools out. This is going way more smoothly than I thought, hoping I'm not overlooking something.
  45. 1 point
    One of the older ladies in our office put up a notice in the break room “ clean up after yourself as Hazel doesn’t work here”. No one knew what she was talking about.
  46. 1 point
    I like to use hardwood or plywood for sled fences as i feel they have better rigidity performance compared to MDF. They also will take a screw and not break apart like yours did. Your fence looks nice and fancy though. Mine is ugly enough to work as a halloween prop.
  47. 1 point
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  48. 1 point
    Just finished off a curly maple bowl I’d been dawdling over between trips. Its 14” across and stands 5” tall. I got to try out some Hampshire Grit I picked up at the symposium. Its not magic stuff, you still have to make a good quality surface before using it but it gives the wood a nice feel.
  49. 1 point
    Huh. What did you say.....
  50. 1 point
    I like these... 3M Peltor earmuffs. They claim 30dB reduction and are comfortable to wear. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526919010&sr=8-3&keywords=hearing+protection&refinements=p_89%3A3M They work pretty well with my DW735.