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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/30/19 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    Second installment. The sides of this piece are cut back, which narrows the corners and gives a longer and narrower space in which to form the pillars. This allows the pillars to be a little more dramatic. However I actually made a “mistake” in sequencing the steps on this project by removing that waste wood now rather than after the pillars were mostly formed. To explain briefly, whenever I turn one of these convolved forms I encounter end grain chip out from the trailing edges of two of the pillars. This occurs where the grain runs perpendicular to the tool path and the pillar is getting thin, in other words just as your approaching that final contour and you really don’t want chip out to happen. Since this frayed trailing edge would be within the waste wood, if you wait on the bandsawing you get to cut off the chip out. Well mostly, you still have to be careful, but you do get that extra insurance. In order to trim the waste wood at a later stage I would have needed to make a simple jig, rather than what I did below. I admit a little get done-itis thinking may have influenced my decision making. All in all this project has gone on for about 3 months, with a few false starts, so at this point I wanted to get rolling and not stop to make a jig. So I just used the miter gauge from the table saw being careful not to cut farther than the exact line dimensions. So here’s a trick on that point. Just because your machine has a motor does not mean that you have to switch it on. So with the power switch safety engaged I turn the drive wheel by hand and just eased up on the apex so as to not overshoot. I was a little off of the line on some of my cuts, but that accuracy was within tolerance given the sculpting to come. The next step is to transfer the 90 degree en face view to each of the four sides. This drawing was adjusted slightly to reflect the fact that the 90 degree view was being projected onto a non flat surface. This is probably not strictly necessary, after all you can only get so accurate with carbon paper transfer, but my MO is to be as exact as I can and it was actually not difficult to make the adjustment. There will be enough inaccuracies later; I don’t need to make it worse now. The piece is now mounted on the screw chuck. I want to remove some of the bulk material so I have drawn lines showing various depths I can go and for each depth I mark a diameter measuring from the corner inward. Having removed the bulk I have an odd wedding cake form. The drawings made on the outside of the form serve as a guide to the final contour. The actual shape will be determined by eye, but may be surprisingly close. After completing the outside of the base the red guide pins can be glued in place. Then I can move on to create a mortise in the bottom. I use the diamond tool to create a dovetail on the inside wall to match the dovetail on the chuck jaws. With the mortise done I can begin hollowing out the base, entering through the middle of the mortise. The Forstner hole is a head start on this tedious task. Notice how the guide pins are helpful for lining up the hollowing tool. The guide pins can be seen well while the wood is spinning, but it pays to stop periodically to peer inside and evaluate your progress. The guide holes are empty while the ends of the guide pins can be seen. Clearing out the inside is tedious even with the Forstner hole, but eventually the tool makes it to the outside. Since the sides were already cut back this point comes a little sooner—so there’s that. Notice that my trajectory has taken me closer to the lower pin than the upper. I’m still in the path, but I’ve lost the lower pin. The upper is still an adequate guide, especially because I can now see what I’m doing directly through the opening in the side of the form. Closing in on the upper pin, while following the guide holes to form the inner contours. You can see the end grain chip out on the left hand margin of the opening in this photo. It is getting uncomfortably close to the expected final contour. So time to chamfer the edge which I do with a Dremel and small sanding drum. This process has to be repeated periodically as the chamfer is cut away by further turning of the inside. Work at it long enough and you get something that’s starting to look like something. If I had not yet cut back the sides this would be the time for that operation. The problem as you might already see is that there are no longer any corners to line up with the saw blade, and the cut lines are also probably gone. The trick is to have a template already made with a screw and hole ready to attach the bowl just where the screw chuck was. This re-centers the bowl, but you do have to rotate the bowl to get the alignment just right. With a little thought and planning this works well and it’s what I did on the last project. So time to sand the outside and inside surfaces. At this stage I will leave the area of the mortise alone as this will be removed at a later step. For the remainder I start anywhere from P60 to P120 grit depending on the condition of the surface and how much tweaking the contour needs. It is possible to focus the coarse grits on an isolated rough patch so that you don’t have do all of the surfaces with all the grits. I also found the H. mahogany to be remarkably responsive to the sandpaper. At one point I accidentally went from 80 to 180 grit and actually had no problem. Typically at this stage I will not skip grits and work my way to P320. It will ultimately get sanded finer, but this is good for now. With the initial sanding completed I flip the piece, mounting the mortise to the chuck, then shape the top. Since there is no bowl this was pretty quick. The astute eye will notice that a crack has formed at the mortise ring. This ring was just too narrow for the mahogany. There were actually two cracks. And I got lucky. Very Lucky. I was able to complete the turning then dribble some thin CA in the cracks and release the chuck closing the cracks on the adhesive. That's why there is brown paper on the lathe bedways. It worked. I did drip a bit of CA on the chuck, but was able to easily remove this with acetone. By the way it's best to apply acetone with a brush or cotton swab, it readily goes through nitrile gloves. The base is now largely formed. At this stage it looks just like the 3D drawing. The next steps will be to turn off the mortise ring and then cut apart the top ring and sculpt the pillars. I will leave it as is for now as I will need to use the top ring to size the basin’s bottom, and there is a remote chance I will have to test my luck and turn the top ring further if it is not wide enough to allow a beautiful basin. But next is the basin.
  2. 8 points
    Here's an idea I tried awhile back and have never left. Mill a bit of hardwood to fit inside the Incra tube. I milled a couple of feet and have not run out yet. It only takes a few inches to make a new "flag". I have a few "flags" for various tasks. They all change out quickly with one screw that happened to already have a hole in the extrusion. It was one of those cobbled together solutions that stuck with me. My miter gauge fence is highly modified from the original intent but, the addition of the sacrificial "flag" could still work on a stock tube.
  3. 7 points
    I am going to try my hand at another journal. I took a lot of photos as I went along on this project so I thought I'd post them in manageable groups. If you do want to quote this post, in the interest of space, please be selective about the specific sections you want to repeat. This is going to be another convolved form similar to others I have posted about on this forum. The idea for this project started with a comment Chestnut made with the last piece I wrote about. He said, “I know you like your pieces to hint at the ability to serve a use but I'd be interested in what you came up with if you threw function out the window and just went for showy”. That got me thinking, what if I left out the bowl entirely and just kept the rest of the convolved form (that’s what I’ve started calling these pieces). That left a ring on the bottom and one on the top. In and of itself I wasn’t too keen on the shape, but that then got me thinking about a design I had sketched last fall, but then abandoned. You can see that design on the left most sheet in the picture below. I had envisioned that design to be contained within a single block of wood and suffice it to say I couldn’t see how to do it. But now the thought came to me to make it out of two pieces of wood. The base would then be a convolved form with no bowl (and ultimately no top ring, either). The basin could then be much bigger. In the picture above you can see several of the sketches I went through, before settling on the design below. Typically I like to have 90 and 45 degree en face views as well and while it is possible to draw these in 2D it’s nice to have a 3D drawing to work with, particularly as it gives you an opportunity to see if all this work is going to amount to ugly. So I embarked on trying to learn just enough of Fusion 360 to get some pictures. Here are drawings of the base as it will be turned and before sculpting the pillars. And here are the base and basin together. The drawings of the base in this after sculpting depiction are crude. I am not talented enough with Fusion 360 to draw what I was thinking accurately, so this is just a gross representation. But, now armed with my diagrams, 3D drawings I started to work on real wood. So first step is to cut off an appropriate piece from my stock. For this project I chose to use dry Honduran mahogany that I had acquired a year or two ago for the base, and an 11 by 5 inch round of dry curly maple I had for the basin. I’ve talked about this before, but the convolved forms require starting out with a truly squared turning block, otherwise the pillars will not be equal in size. I’ll mostly let the pictures speak for themselves. The key point in squaring the block is that 2nd and 4th sides are in the longest length of the block, and that when setting up for the 3rd cut you have firmly fixed a stop so that the third and fourth cuts are exactly the same length. Also, I used the marking gauge on the third cut for this particular piece as I wanted the block to be a specific dimension. Once square on four sides I need to square and flatten the faces. Instead of a router sled the block is sled mounted and the router is in the table. The partially smoothed surface. Once the first face is smooth flip the block and smooth the second. The block is square and flat on 6 surfaces. Mark up the surfaces with all of the information that may be needed for turning and to drill guide holes for depth and the guide pins. The top. The bottom. The sides of this piece are to be cut back so bandsaw cut lines are also drawn in. And mark the sides for the guide pins. Holes for the guides and for the screw chuck are all started as accurately as possible using the drill point countersink bit with 1/8” drill point, 5/16” final diameter and 60 degree cone. The DPCB is then swapped out for the appropriate bit for each hole and the hole drilled to an accurate depth. Here a 1/8” bit follows the DPCB to drill a hole for one of the guide pins. The top receives a 5/16” hole for the screw chuck, the bottom gets a Forstner as a head start on hollowing. Well that's enough for this first installment. Next will be the bandsaw work and turning work on the base. I hope I am not including too much or too little detail.
  4. 7 points
    Been working on this one slowly and steadily over the last couple weeks. I cut a bunch of material to rough length and width to make 3 ply parts for the trestles. I'm not measuring how much wood I'm using I'm just kinda guessing. The route that i'm planning on going will be a bit more wasteful but I think the result is going to look somewhat nicer. Got all of the parts matched and made sure the defects were towards the inside. Using 3 plys allows a lot of the bad material to be used for the center ply as long as you make sure to account for the fact that some cutting and shaping will be done. I put a lot of bad looking knots towards the middle which is nice. I used a good 75% of my clamps here. I utilized some of the offcuts from making the table trestle legs to glue up the legs for the benches. I figured I'd get 1.5" x 3" blanks to do some sore of MCM taper for the bench legs to make an attempt to match the style for the trestle. I have an idea but I don't have it on paper so you'll have to follow along to see the end of that one. I ganged all the legs together and glued them up in 1 batch. Made things nice. I brought this wood in my shop November 24th. Which happened to be the same day that I found the rotten wood on my shop window. The wood came in my shop 7 days ago at 20% MC according to my pinless meter. Today it measured 12-13%. EMC in my shop for this wood is 10-11% so it dropped the moisture fast which is surprising for air dried lumber. This air dried paper birch is a dream to work. With handtools it works similar to KD walnut except is nicer in some ways. I"m really enjoying this wood a lot. I"m glad i have another 200 BF in my shed . To make the trestle legs i figured it was easier to make 2 blocks and then glue them together up the center. This allows me to make a really easy but perfect through mortise for the stretcher. If you look close you can see the design drawn out to be cut on the band saw. After I cut the first side out I cleaned up all the sides with a combination of my #4, a spoke shave, a card scraper, and a wide chisel. The chisel allowed me to keep the hard inside corner instead of letting it get rounded. I then used the completed side to trace the outline on the other 3 parts. These are very thick so template routing would be tricky and I HATE template routing. Hand tools have MUCH less pucker factor. The top and bottom parts of the trestle were shapped the same way but took a lot less effort as the bends were a lot less harsh. Using strait square blocks allowed the joinery to take place on square faces. This way I didn't have to fuss with odd angles or what not. Where the joinery goes everything is strait and square. Easy peasy. Joinery is going to be floating mortise and tenon. I"m using 1.5" wide tenon stock with ~1" deep mortises. I will be double stacking these on each "leg" So there will be 8 tenons per side. I used my favorite mortise machine and plunged twice side by side to get a 1.75" wide mortise. I made it a bit over sized to make sure that i had some wiggle room while I'm gluing up. I could use the store purchased stock but i honestly don't think the glue bond is as good. I'm leery of all the stuff they stamp in the surface i honestly think that it reduces the effective glue area. Personal opinion backed up by zero evidence. Beings that the stock is scraps that was in the burn pile the floating tenon stock is free so that's probably where my bias comes in. Next up is the stretcher and see how the bench legs shape up.
  5. 5 points
    Nice to finally deliver. And several wows were offered. We work for money, but the thanks and comments of appreciation along with the wows are a meaningful part of the pay. Dealing with nice people adds to the pleasure of the work. I had to bring the drawers back to the shop. I did not calculate the plastic that fits on top of the drawer sides to accommodate the hanging folders. It was 40 minutes round trip travel and 20 minutes to cut the sides a half inch. All is well!
  6. 5 points
    I finally managed to wrap this up over the weekend. I've added a third drawer, put on drawer fronts and hardware, and put finish on the bare wood. Here's the final result: I decided that since I had exposed plywood edges on the partitions,I would embrace it and use plywood edges for the drawer fronts. As a bonus, I used up a lot of the scraps I generated in the project. Here's a better view of the drawers: For the lower drawers, I glued up a blank that was about 2"X3" and cut it in half with my blade at 10 degrees. From there I planed it to what I wanted. The upper drawer was just a bunch of 5/8" wide 1/2" ply strips glued together. For that drawer, I angled the drawer false front to get a little more room inside. I may still modify this a bit more after I use it, but for now I think my next shop time will be spent turning.
  7. 5 points
    I actually did make progress on he box yesterday. Had to change a brake caliper in the car before getting to the woodworking but once I had that started, I paid close attention to the plan (this time) and got the bottom made, tails cut and grooves and rabbets routed. Lots of small corners and joinery on this thing. The base is sapele joined to alder, per the plan but I had more sapele than alder, width-wise, so it’s made differently but at least is the proper size. Today is pins day and I’m not sure if I’ll start the door next or some of the inside pieces.
  8. 4 points
    Now it's time to use it. I found out last night, after i got home late due to a 12 hour work day, that turning a couple quick things on a lathe is fun and relaxing. Your setup is beautiful and makes mine look like a joke but it works.
  9. 4 points
    You could always consider it a gauge to find that angle again.
  10. 4 points
    Pins done. I’m liberally using chalk to remind me what goes where. I’m sure my second one will go smoother
  11. 3 points
    I would like to get some comments/ suggestions on a desk that I am designing for myself. It is taller than most desks since I have worked at a drafting table for many years and prefer the height and sloped surface. Top shelf is for 2 computer monitors. Shelve space behind the drawers a basically because no one needs a 24" deep drawers. I may do drawer fronts with book matched veneer - that looks continuous from drawer to drawer. Any comments welcome. I won't be offended.
  12. 3 points
    You could make the cut longer and fill the void with epoxy to make the first ever River (TM) miter gauge.
  13. 3 points
    Very interesting design. What about wrapping the drawer runners across the drawer face to form full width pulls?
  14. 2 points
    One, I don’t understand it, two, I could never dream that up and three, there’s no way I’d ever attempt it. But You’ve done all three and looks darn good so far!
  15. 2 points
    Apparently you don’t have a SS or your story would have been longer!
  16. 2 points
    Thanks. I'm glad that my sister just gave me dimensions and let me go. She approved the over all design but beings that she knows what her Christmas gift will be the surprise will be the end result.
  17. 2 points
    Always like your journals Mark, pushing the limits on what can be done with wood is an inspiration for the rest of us mere mortals and I always learn lots of new things, looking forward to this one for sure
  18. 2 points
    The most effective (and cheapest to implement) method for protecting the finish from damage caused by sweating drink glasses is a good supply of coasters. Barring that, a durable topcoat MAY help, but nothing short of a pour-over epoxy "bar top" finish will fully eliminate the possibility. My suggestion, if coasters aren't going to work for you, is to lightly sand the surface with 220 grit or higher paper, clean thoroughly, apply 1 or 2 coats of dewaxed shellac (Zinser Seal Coat works) as a barrier coat, and after it cures for a few days, apply as many coats of polyurathane as you like. Shellac adheres to most other finishes, hence the barrier coat over the unknown existing finish. I like wipe-on styles of polyurathane, it just seems easier to get a smooth coat, without resorting to expensive spray gear. Follow directions on the can.
  19. 2 points
    I'd use a cleat inside the rails similar to how one would attach a seat to a chair. This way your not putting a bunch of large holes in your aprons.
  20. 1 point
    I have had my A3/31 for about 14 years it has the straight blades and has worked very well for me. The newer ones are even better, tables don't butterfly open and the spiral cutter head come to mind. FWIW I had to replace a $20 capacitor a couple years back other than that no issues.
  21. 1 point
    First, the original post didn't keep my file names. So instead of "B", "C" and "D" like I referenced in the original post, let's change them to "A", "B" and "C" like you referenced them. Thank you for the reply! When you mention the trim on the "wings", do you mean the bar rail, the inside and rear 1/2" trim, or both? I can probably do a spline for the 1/2" trim, but not sure if I can for the bar rail. Though I suppose maybe the top lip on the bar rail would help with the alignment. I'm attaching a shot of the bar rail for reference. If I go with Bar Top A layout, any suggestions on how to handle where the 1/2" trim pieces meet on the 2 inside corners and 2 outside corners to best handle the movement? (One butting up against the other the way I show them, butting up the other way, or mitered?) In response to your last question, three factors. Most of the plans I looked at when designing the bar used 3/4" hardwood over 3/4" ply. The bar rail I purchased is designed for that layout. And, of course, cost. Thank you!
  22. 1 point
    Jim, I've been very happy with my Hammer A3-41. I got it with the spiral cutterhead. Felder is running a special on them right now. Swichover doesn't have to be a hassle. Here's a short video of the process that Kev shot while he was here last summer. I don't know if you have any travel plans for the holidays but if if you're coming anywhere near Santa Fe give me a heads up. You're welcome to check it out.
  23. 1 point
    Bmac, I keep looking for pics of the finished rocker?
  24. 1 point
    Ahhhhh! I see, I think I understand now, just don't ask me to do that!
  25. 1 point
    Or you could find a chunk of aluminum with some of the raw ore still stuck to it & make a live edge gauge.
  26. 1 point
    Just hack 1cm off the end. You didn't need a fence that long anyway. That sucks. I've been super careful with my miter gauges but i bet it's only time until I do this to one of mine as well. If it bothers you enough incra does sell replacement parts. https://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Miter_1000HD_p/pc-miter1000hd.htm
  27. 1 point
    It’s more intricate than I’d anticipated but it’s turned into a fun learning experience so I’ll be able to apply it to the next project. As long as my reach isn’t beyond my grasp, or vice versa
  28. 1 point
    I like how this is shaping up!
  29. 1 point
    Those drawer fronts are awesome. I really dig that look. This is quite the stand now. I don't know why but i always chuckle reading about wood turners "turning". In my mind I imagine them in their shop spinning around like a figure skater.
  30. 1 point
    Interested in following this, I'm not really sure how you are getting there but I'm in!
  31. 1 point
    End grain soaks up finish like a sponge. I don't know that it matters what finish you use 4-5 coats is what it's going to take to fill in all those thirsty pores. Thinner finishes like shellac may take more. Lacquer could be an attractive finish though it takes some work. You can polish it after you've gotten the build you want to a mirror sheen if you so choose. Do an internet search for rubbing out finish and you'll get some good techniques. Here is one example of many.
  32. 1 point
    I suppose some kind of epilogue is due on this. I did return to this project a couple of times as promised. I turned the piece some more cutting away some of the outer inner surface of the wings to create arches. Unfortunately I encountered end grain chip out, some of which was pretty significant. This was a layer by layer problem with some layers chipping out while most of the rest remained intact. It may have been due to my glue up, but still it certainly doesn't make me want to go to the time and considerable expense to try this again. I've given the partially turned block to one of my club mates who thought it might be suitable to be carved and we're going to see if we can't make something of it or if it might serve as a prototype for a future collaboration.
  33. 1 point
    Reminds me of a piece from fellow instructor at school, Christoph Neander.
  34. 1 point
    Not a user of such exotics myself, but I hear that an acetone wash can remove enough of the natural oils to allow good finish adhesion.
  35. 1 point
    I would talk to powermatic technical support.
  36. 1 point
    Also look at ‘template’ or ‘pattern’ bits. You’ll probably want 1” cutting length, shank size will depend on your router.
  37. 1 point
    It needs to be screwed from the bottom. You will need to add wood from apron to apron. screw from underneath.
  38. 1 point
    No. I put the pivot point off center to take care of that. You loosen the clamp (these are $6 Harbor Freight specials), raise the handle end and then lower the bar a few inches. The toggle swings into line with the bar courtesy of gravity and you pull them out.
  39. 1 point
    I guess I’ll be the contrarian. If you are running your power tools much of every weekend afternoon in close proximity to your neighbors patio, as it sounds from the first post, forget the legalities and HOA regulations; that’s just rude and not very neighborly. (As is whatever is coming out of their loudspeakers if loud). Why not be the better person and move it to your garage instead of indulging in legalisms and revenge fantasies?
  40. 1 point
    We are building a version of this hall table ... We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards .. A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should. I began this session by turning the legs ... The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed. The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc. Once done, you can square up on a jointer .. ... rip to width ... ... and cross cut ... Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ... Packed away for the night ... When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ... My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) .. Completed side panels ... It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html). These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ... Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ... Saw the pins ... Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides. Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ... Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ... Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ... The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding. Now you can fretsaw away the waste. Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ... Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs To create the mitred ends, first mark ... ... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy. And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ... So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm Regards from Perth Derek
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    So I just re-discovered this thread and have learned a bit this since I started it. I have done some experiementing. Because of the high gloss of a frech poslished. You have to sand a lot more on each grit on figured wood and burls including veneers than you do on woods with a directional grain to avoid scratches showing up. Testing with mineral spirits or raking light as you sand is not good enough. Some times scratches will not show up until the polishing process reaches a certain level of sheen and then, poop, that scratch shows up. Here is a experiment for use on burl. Sand first grit with Ros, 2nd by hand north-south, 3rd by hand E-W. 4th diagonally, 5th diagonally the on other way. Then do the french polish. if scratches show up you will know at what step or steps in the sanding process you did not sand enough.
  43. 1 point
    The factor that causes movement is the difference in expansion or shrinkage between the radial direction inside the board and the tangential. Radial is the change in diameter of the log and tangential is the change along the growth rings. This is often expressed as a ratio. The closer to 1 of the ratio the more stable the wood is going to be. Also the lower the percentage of shrinkage in either direction the more stable the wood will be and the less it will change size. If the ratio is 1 and the percentage is 15% it'll move a lot but would in theory be stable. Wood is natural and theory goes out the window so don't count on that. Some common hardwoods are screen shot below from wood database. Cherry and Oak are on the more unstable size with TRs of 1.9 & 2.2 Walnut is quite stable as is Mahogany. Despite walnut having a low TR it's higher shrinkage tend to give it a worse reputation as far as stability is concerned when compared to Mahogany. Mahogany is well known for being a very stable wood. Below are the SPF softwoods with WRC included for comparison. In conclusion it's not clearly cut and dry this is also a small sample but on average softwoods have lower shrinkage numbers and better TR ratios. Like everything that depends on the species and most importantly how the log is sawn. From my under standing spruce is more common in smaller boards like 2x4s and it's specs reflect the reality that those boards move a lot more. Fir is more stable and has better properties all around which is why it's more common in larger lumber. This is all regional dependent. SE everything is likely to be SYP west coast is likely to be fir. This is all information learned from listening/reading Shannon Rodgers. Lumber Industry Update has a lot of good information on all things wood though it's from a single person with their bias in it so i can't say that i have multiple sources and multiple perspectives. I shouldn't have included Mahogany, that wood is very well known for it's superior stability.
  44. 1 point
    Hello guys, I wanted to show you my last job. I built a mini carpenter workbench. maybe for many it is nothing special but for me that I work in the garage and I have little space it allows me to do carpentry work with more precision but important to be able to use the plane. You can rest it on the bench and fix it with bench vises I hope you like it for the moment I'm satisfied. This the video walktrought https://youtu.be/6Fodk-yAW7M
  45. 1 point
    I agree to a point but believe most will see a beautiful piece and just may not understand what is different, what makes it stand out...that is for us to educate them on
  46. 1 point
    As hobbyists, aren't we doing this for our own gratification, anyway?
  47. 1 point
    This is a better picture taken by the clients new iPhone . The camera is much improved. Here are the pulls provided by the client. I will try to get some pics when delivered and in place. In my eye, the stain makes it look like a non stained piece 20 years old. But my guess is the 20year non stained piece will look better. The continuing grain on the drawer faces is almost a non event due to staining. The keys are the same for each drawer.
  48. 1 point
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  49. 1 point
    I would also recommend the Woodslicer, but I also have the Laguna Resaw King and it is an awesome blade for resawing.
  50. 0 points
    Until today. I set the incra mitre gauge close to the blade to give as much support as possible to a small piece of timber to cut some angles. Once done, I set my angle (saw tilts to the right) and then made my cut. I wondered for a second where the aluminium shavings were coming from. it wasn’t a smart moment.