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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 29 points
    Some of you know, and some don't. My wife was diagnosed with cancer in 2015. She went through all the necessary treatments, radiation, chemotherapy and everything they had to stop the cancer. It worked, all that was left after 2 1/2 years of treatments was scar tissue. Hooray we thought, but hold on a minute. Why wasn't she recovering? She was weak, hardly able to walk, to eat, to have a good life again. It seems that the chemicals that are used to kill off the cancer cells, also do damage to other parts of the body. Those chemicals that saved my wife's life from cancer, destroyed her stem cells. Those are the cells in the bone marrow that produce red blood, white blood cells and the platelets that people need to live, you've got'em and be damned glad you do. Her immune system was gone, totally destroyed, any damn wandering germ could kill her, so we went full, hospital gowns, latex gloves, and masks for everyone, she was on oxygen 24/7. I had to take her to the ER more times than you cross cut wood in a week. But she was tough, she never gave up, Ask Coop, that bum talked to her every week, sometimes more. 3 1/2 months ago, after 6 blood transfusions, we were told she had maybe 6 months to live. She made it to 3 months. I was with her in her hospital room when she died. It ripped my heart out. When we were told that 6 months was a possibility, I began construction on a project, I'd never dreamed I'd do. A friend, a sawyer you all know as Spanky, donated the wood. Along time close friend, an ex scooter tramp helped me make and install the hearts and hand rail, and a damned good friend flew in from Texas to do an inlay of a cross that my wife had and wanted on her casket. Never in my life did I know such good friends. The casket was built from Sassafras, so she would have that wonderful fragrance all the way to heaven. The top was curly Cherry. I did a crude carving of two hearts on one part, and my good friend [A bum} did the inlay. She died on the 19th of this month, and I buried the love of my life on Friday the 26th . Just a few days ago, and it's not real even now. These are the pictures of those friends and the casket they helped to build for a very special human. You'll be able to tell who's who. The bearded bum is my scooter tramp friend, we go back to years that should be left unmentioned. The bum in the red shirt is Ken Cooper. Probably the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I couldn't find the pic of Spanky, but if you can buy wood from this guy, he won't screw you. The rest is the short version of the build. I never wanted it to be used in my lifetime.Inside around where her hips and legs were going I saved most of the Sassafras and Cherry that I had to plane to make fit I scattered those shavings to give her that fragrance. Ken flew in for the burial, and some friends drove in from cajun country to see her off and sing her favorite song " Go rest high on that mountain". And that's where she is now, on top of a mountain called Monteagle, in Tennessee in the cemetery named for her maiden name O'Dear. and she's lying on the right hand of a man she loved......Her Father, George O'Dear. I hope I did her justice. ...........Rick
  2. 21 points
    I made a couple of jewelry boxes out of sepele for my daughters for Christmas. I haven't made any thing for them since they were kids here at home so I figured it was time. They are simple in design, neither one of our daughters is into fancy or real ornate stuff. I used Brusso stop hinges and they are finished with satin Arm-R-Seal. This is the first project using sepele and I really enjoyed working with it. I have another project after the first of the year and I now think I will be using sepele for that one also. The chatoyance is really something with sepele as you change the angle at which you view it from.
  3. 18 points
    I completed the finish process on the table two weeks ago and then the table just sat in the shop because of other things asking for my time. This morning I finally got the old table out and the new one into the house. It came in, in two pieces. For one it is heavy, and two logistically it was just the easier way. Down side to this is the tight space and lighting didn't lend itself to good pictures but here it is. Any and all comments and constructive criticism are welcome. One of the challenges of the project was to get the finish close to the same as the chairs we had purchased and over all I think I came real close. I don't think anybody off the street would know that the table was built separate from the chairs, but I will let you be the judge and let me know what you think.
  4. 17 points
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  5. 17 points
    It has been one year to the day since I last was on this forum. I am sure there have been a lot of new members and things happen since then. I just thought I would put up a post to let everyone know where I've been and why I was absent for so long. Hopefully all the members I have known in the past are still here! One year ago today, I had an injury in the shop. I will spare you the details for now, but it ended up with me in the emergency room. I cut open my left thumb on the table saw, and required 12 stitches (6 inside and 6 outside). It scared the living hell out of me. The cut was in the pad of my left thumb, and did not severe any tendons, ligaments, or hit the bone. No surgery was required. I am a VERY safety conscious person, and doubly so in my shop. I have worked wood for 15 years without injury or incident, until this occurrence. It was, quite literally, 1 second of inattention and my thumb was cut open. I was out of the shop for 12 weeks as the thumb healed. My thumb has recovered, but I do have some nerve damage that affects the feeling along the scar line. The mental healing took much longer, and I feel now that I am ready to share my experience with you. After the incident, my wife was concerned about me and how this was affecting my outlook on my beloved craft. In the end, she bought me a Sawstop to help get me out of my funk and back to my passion. It's now in my shop, and I have been using it for 6 months. It's the 3 HP cabinet saw model, and its incredible. I'll post a review at a later date when I get back in the groove of posting again. In no way to I blame the table saw for my injury - it was 100% my own fault. Ironically, about 6 weeks after my injury I was contacted by a Woodworking magazine regarding a 2 page article I had written for them. I ended up getting my article published int the magazine (print), and have since written 4 more which will be published in 2019. The magazine is called "Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement". It was a very proud moment for me, but was a little tarnished by the injury I had suffered. Regardless, it is nice to be back in "full swing" again. I'll be back to regular posting now, so catch me up on what you fellas have been up to! -pug
  6. 17 points
    Lynndy and I were in Auckland, New Zealand recently for the wedding of her niece. We stayed with her brother and his wife. They have a wonderful home with some nice examples of arts and crafts furniture, one of which was an apothecary chest. I really love these pieces, and Lynndy especially has wanted one forever. So the order was placed and a spot lined up in the entrance hall. The design was mostly worked out in idle musing, and then I drew it up on sheets of 6mm MDF (I like this since the sheets end up as a story board and may be stored away more easily if needed at a later date). The orientation is vertical, rather than typically horizontal, more along the lines of a Krenov-styled cabinet. I’ve never built a Krenov-styled cabinet and, as far as I am aware, he never built an apothecary chest! In other words, this is a chest on a stand. As an aside, I am not enamoured with the spindly legs of Krenov designs, and something with substance is needed. More on this at a later date. The chest will contain 24 drawers, in 6 rows (so 4 drawers across and 6 rows down) … What has changed in the drawing above is the rows will be made to accentuate the vertical rather than the horizontal (by running the blades/dividers down first). This is more work, but is should create a different perspective. I have never seen a curved apothecary chest before, so this may be the first one … The wood is another first for me – black walnut from the USA. My local timber guy had a stack of 1” and 2” thick boards, all about 11-12” wide. (For those who see metric measurements on the plans and here is mentioned imperial sizing, be aware that this is my common practice. The jointer-planer/thicknesser I have is European, and metric. The hand tools, such as a plough plane, are imperial). The boards are thicknessed a little oversize, glued up, and then taken to final dimension with hand planes. The walnut is so easy to plane. I get why so many rave about working with it. Don’t you love it when the carcase parts are done. These are all 20mm thick … Starting to put it together Starting from the bottom up, the side panels are left a little long as they will need to be given a curved bevel to meld with the bottom panel … The dovetails are in the ratio of 6:1 – I felt the slightly extra wider base would add a little more authority. Here’s the first completed corner. It is important that the joints are tight (obviously) but also that they moved apart readily, since the cabinet carcase will be pulled apart, put together, and pulled apart many times as the drawer blades are measured and fitted ... Note, also, the area that will need to be bevelled away. This is marked. Now the dimension of the bevel is taken the length of the panel … I made up a template of the curve by grinding a piece of scrap steel (chosen because it was lying around) … … and the curve is transferred to the other end of the panel. The waste is planed away with, firstly, a jack plane (shop made) … ... and then a modified HNT Gordon trying plane … The reason for the trying plane is to keep the sides straight. A jointer plane could have substituted. The final step here is to smooth and fair the surface with a HNT Gordon mini smoother … Finally, we get to complete the basic carcase (the flash makes the walnut look light, but it is dark in tone). the dimensions are 700mm high and 300mm deep (at the centre) … Starting the vertical drawer blades/dividers These are made with merbau as a secondary wood, with walnut facing … Merbau is from northern Queensland (some is imported from Papua New Guinea). It is hard and heavy, and typically used in Oz for flooring or outdoor furniture. I am using it because it is cheap and hard. As cheap as pine and as dense and wear-resistant as jarrah. The boards are glued together and bound with blue tape .. Three vertical dividers for now … As before, they are also slightly oversize and will be planed to dimension to fit into 12mm wide dados. More later. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 17 points
    Finish the 2x4's on all sides then assemble with construction adhesive and brads from the bottom face. Screw the hairpin legs on and your done. Take no pictures, apply no signature, deny you ever built such a thing !
  8. 16 points
    copied without permission because it's true:
  9. 15 points
    The immediate challenge is to create the curved ends. The plan is to make dovetailed corners, round them on the outside and add a filler/filet to the inside corner, which will be hollowed to compliment the outer radius. Complicating this is the need to mitre the insides of the dovetailed ends, since this will permit the shape to flow better than butt ends. Interesting ... as I have never made mitred dovetails to date. This is going to be a steep but quick learning curve! I spent some time researching mitred dovetails. There is not much around. The only book I could find with directions was Ian Kirby's "The Complete Dovetail". I like Ian's work, but the writing here were not his best. There is a short video by Chris Schwarz (Google for it), which was helpful. There was also an article on the UKWorkshop forum (by Custard), which is a Pins-first method (I tend to saw Tails-first). There were one or two other articles to be found, of less assistance to someone like yours truly, who becomes easily spatially challenged. In the end I worked it out but, reflecting on the method that evolved, it does not look like those who came before. Perhaps it is a different way of doing it? I really do not know. Let me have your thoughts here. Anyway, I plan to show it for the education of those who want to learn a method. Beginning with a tail board that has been marked and sawn (to speed up the description). Note that there is no shoulder here (which is common on butt ended dovetails). The wood is Merbau, which is hard, hard, hard. 20mm thick, as per the panels on the table ... The aim is to saw all the tails. Forget about the mitre for now (... this is a departure from the methods I observed). To make the removal of waste easiest, undercut the baselines (shallow cuts to avoid losing vertical) ... Now fretsaw away the waste. Get as close to the baseline as you dare! My cuts are about 1mm ... This enables the minimum of waste removal. You can place the chisel immediately against the chisel wall and pare/chop down halfway ... With the waste removed, mark the mitre cuts at the sides - but do not cut them yet (this is another departure) ... Time now to transfer the marks to the pin board. First, here is an alternative to the "#140 trick" (the #140 trick involves creating a shallow rebate to securely connect the tail board to the pin board when transferring marks. This was popularised by Rob Cosman and Chris Schwarz, amongst others). My alternative is three layers of blue tape, which is peeled away afterwards. Lay three layers of blue tape over the baseline. No need to be careful ... Now use the cutting gauge (which marked the tails) to slice away the tape, leaving an edge butting against the baseline ... This is the fence. Here it is seen with the pin board, which has a layer of blue tape on the end ... The "fence" makes it easy to align the boards, while the blue tape on the pin board also acts as a non-slip .. When you trace the sockets (with a knife), the outlines look like this (great for old eyes!) ... Drop all the vertical lines, with the exception of the line on the outside at each side ... Remove the waste in the same way as done on the tail board (undercut the baseline, fretsaw and chisel) ... Mark out the mitre lines ... ... and drop the verticals on the reverse side... Now saw the mitre cuts and remove the waste ... Do this on the tail board as well - the reason it was left until now was that it would be difficult to transfer the outside tail if the mitre was sawn. Stay about 1mm from the mitre line. Do not saw to the line. This will be more accurately shaped with a chisel. For chiseling, use a mitre guide. This is just a 45 degree saw cut. I made a double-ended guide - to use on opposing sides .. Take it slowly, a smidgeon at a time. Finally ... the moment of truth arrives ... will she .. won't she ?? Looking promising as the top is pressed together with finger pressure. Then I wack it - the wood is uncompromising. The clamp is to prevent any cracking in such circumstances. Not too shabby. Mitres are tight ... Now about the rounded edge ... here is the secret weapon: After marking out, the waste is removed with a block plane, and then sanded smooth. Just lacking the inner filet ... Enough practice. Now for the real thing. A bit more of a challenge as the panels are 500mm wide. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. 14 points
    Just finished this barn for a friend's Grandson. Basic box is Baltic birch plywood with redwood "boards" glued to it. At least I think it is redwood. I salvaged it from my garage door jambs when I replaced them. Trim is maple and roof is a veneer strips on plywood, shellaced to darken the color. Friend is very happy. Animals are by owner. Freind says that she has had 3 people who want to buy one and one the wants to buy the plans. It was just too much work to be able charge a reasonble amount unless I could figure out a way to batch 3 together and avoid cutting the boards around the openings. Also, the roofs would have to be part of the box - too much work to make them as separate pieces. Plus I am out of redwood. I think I will just quietly move on to the next project.
  11. 14 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  12. 13 points
    Not really fine woodworking but I needed to kick out five shop made gifts and with limited time I decided to make this cheese and cracker tray out of Woodsmith. First up was to breakdown some cherry boards. My chop saw is in the basement for that project so I used my plunge saw to do the work. Next up a quick jig to set up the TS to cut the coves for the tray handles I needed a 2" wide cove so I set the jig to 2" and then used blue tape to mark the front and the back of the blade where it enters/exist the cut Once I had that done I could set up the fences for both sides of the piece. I was having trouble figuring out how to get a clamp on the far end when I remembered Chestnut's tip from a few days ago handscrews worked great, thanks Drew!! Then set the blade to take about an 1/8" for the first few cuts and further on 1/6" as the cut gets wider Then its just push through flip push through rinse and repeat...forget about dust collection this makes a really big mess! ...but does a nice job fairly quickly, 5 sets Next I marked off for the 1/4" dowels that will pin the handles to the tray sides Then I drilled 1/4" holes through all the sides for all the trays. Once that was done they were ready to glue up Warning the glue up kinda sucks...made a mess of the first one getting glue in the cracker tray but after that I came up with a process that worked much better. I would dry fit one end then glue the other end and finally go back and glue the first. The tray sides and handles are cut at a 30 degree angle so you have to clamp from top to bottom to keep them aligned Next up I needed to make a bunch of 1/4" cherry dowel stock so after cutting some 3/8" square stock I got out my Elkhead tools TS dowel jig and set it up. Then I hand fed each piece in to make a small dowel I can chuck in a cordless drill Then I ran one through and gave it a test fit Once I had the fit I ran the rest through Next up was to drill the handles. I used the holes drilled in the sides for a guide and then made a wood depth stop Cut the dowels to length Glued them in I cleaned up the over hang with a sharp flush saw, so sharp I cut myself Then I cut the waste away at the TS to reveal the handle Once that was done I cleaned up the coves first at the TS then with sand paper on a 2" piece of conduit, cut a curve on the handle ends, and made some small cutting boards for the centers. After some edge finishing and final sanding they will be ready for finish and bows with two days to spare I also knocked out another lamp like the ones I did last year I'll post up some final shots after the finish is applied.
  13. 13 points
    It's DONE !!!! 9 pm on Friday night and I am exhausted ! I think I'm going to sleep late tomorrow.
  14. 13 points
    I was going to do this as a running Journal but i finished the table in 6 days. The only reason it took 6 days is because i had to wait for a new saw blade after my resaw king snapped so that added a day. I didn't get to my computer to process the pictures for another few days so it's all going in one big dump. It was time for a new coffee table. The one i had made previously just didn't fit any more and i have a very love hate relationship with it that focuses on the hate more than the love. SO every good project starts off with a design. Here is mine. Tables are easy for me so i had some rough dimensions and didn't really fallow any of them. I used scraps from the Morris chair build and made the coffee table to fit the dimensions of the scraps. Cut the legs from 8/4 cherry and all other parts came from 5/4 cherry. I milled up the side pieces first. Below is the legs side parts and long stretchers on my material cart for transportation around the shop. Cut the tapers on the legs with the bandsaw. They taper from 2" to 1-5/8" over 16" Next was to layout the mortises for the slats on the end. I didn't want to do the slats the same way as on the Morris chair because that's too much work so i figured i'd just do a standard M&T cutting the mortise with the domino and the tenon on the table saw. I cut a practice mortise to get the width right. For the wider slat i did 3 wide plunges overlapping significantly to get the right tenon size. I took a piece of scrap and did a test fit just to make sure everything worked. Then it was off to the races resawing cutting tenons and test fitting. I had the perfect size of curly cherry left over from my TV stand build that I'd been holing on to for a while. This was the perfect spot to use it. Tenon off the table saw. Cleaned up. Love that 140 skew. For small shoulders like this a shoulder plain would be a pain. Cut shoulder on the table saw. I cut the tenon to fit inside mortise without having to round the corners. I don't see the point in including that extra material the glue connection is all end grain so it doesn't really give any strength but takes a long @($&@ time. Test fit There was an extra finesse step before glueup. Everything has been been finished prepped before glue up. I was somewhat careful with glue so that i didn't get much squeeze out and really didn't have much to clean up after. Glued the rail and stretcher in. 5/4 Cherry for the top. Got some nice boards that were just under 8". Man it's nice having an 8" jointer. Transport cart to the planer. For edge jointing i always mark the face that goes against the fence for the jointed edge. Some boards i have to run them different directions so the face is not always the same. When i go to do the glue up i make sure that the face that was against the fence alternates across the glue joint. This way any out of square for the jointer fence is negated. I used some dominos for alignment during glue up. After the top was glued i cut it to size with the track saw and ran an under bevel all the way around with the track saw. Then came some solid time with the smoothing plane to make the top smooth. I never touched the top after this with sand paper except to sand the end grain ends. The smoother doesn't leave a finish ready surface on end grain. Now it's just finish. And a topless picture. And finished and in place pictures. The morrise chair and TV stand are in the background. I have in my future some side tables that will match the style but that's in the future a ways.
  15. 13 points
    My new apprentice began today. First thing I taught him was the Mike Pekovich blue tape trick for laying out mortises (which works great by the way). Not sure if Mike will appreciate my grandson’s interpretation, but he’s in the shop. He says it’s an airplane. Fine by me. He seems to really enjoy making things and I’m going to encourage that every time I get the opportunity. At the bench, working out some design issues. He’s just like grandpa, has a running conversation with himself in the shop. After three coats of Summer allergies snot, it’s ready to go. Pass your love of craft on. The next Krenov may be lurking at your bench.
  16. 13 points
    Thougt I would share this veneer project. The hanging is 26" diameter made with Robbon sapele and Tamo Ash veneer. Assmebling peices. Blue tap used to pull pieces together and hold unitl veneer tape can be put on the show side of the piece. After Veneer taping and gluing in vacuum bag. Notice that glue was suckked thru the sapele. Scraped of easily - no big deal. Unfinished pics. Finishes pics - 7 coats on minwax clear gloss poly.
  17. 12 points
    Tis the season for me to start cutting wood, both for the woodstove (next year's stash) and for my woodworking habit. I am very fortunate to have access to some very nice trees. This black walnut was on my property, it's the tree in the center of the photo with a nice branchless trunk. This should give me some primo logs. I saw it the first time I looked at the property in 1998 with a realtor. I harvested one very similar to this 2 years ago and it's time to for this one to be repurposed; Dropped it with no problem, as this is always something that you do with the upmost care. Spanky, take note that I dropped it just right so i didn't break the wood at the crotch; And here is the money shot, gorgeous color, a centered pith, no terrible cracking. The sapwood is a little thicker than I was hoping but I'll still take it; Width is about 26" wide, plenty big for my purposes; I applied anchorseal, 2 coats, left the rest of the tree whole for now. Did clean up the small branches. I should be able to get three 8' logs below the crotch, I'll then salvage/mill a few peckerpoles and the crotch piece. This log is too nice, I think I will hire an onsite bandsaw mill to do this as my chainsaw mill's kerf will eat up too much of this primo wood. I'll update this thread as I move forward with the harvesting of this nice tree. Thanks for looking
  18. 12 points
  19. 12 points
    I don't want to put people to sleep with an endless tour but, here's a few shots of the shop. This is a commercial cabinet that I'm sure I posted about retrofitting to make it more usable for me. The full depth pullouts keep me from losing stuff in this 24" deep beast. Here's a shot of the main work area. Several machines are mobile and move into this space as needed and move back out when assembly or finishing begin. Here's a shot back toward the position that the previous shot was taken from. The wall mounted tool cabinet is actually the right wing of my plane till/tool cabinet but, I never seem to get annoyed enough to re-work the opposite wall to make it fit where it was intended to go which is over on that wall. From the front left you can see my router table and tablesaw area. This was sized to allow me to work with a 60" sq. sheet of BB ply. The garage door opens for longer infeed on those rare occasions it is required. Looking over the tablesaw from the operator's position you see the workbench. Currently has some items on it (that seem to have been there forever) which are over my lift-limit for a few more months. I have (probably too many) more pics if there is anything that anyone is curious about. It is a two car garage with an additional 10 feet of depth where a fourth bedroom option was not taken on the house by the original owners; I thank them every time I am in the shop.
  20. 12 points
    Bench number 1 Some time ago I bought 5 or 6 sticks of kiln dried Maple. Just random sticks, at a glance they were knot free, so I didn't investigate any more than just the glance. When I got them home and began stacking and stickering I found one of the boards was full of powder post beetle holes. I called the guy and he said that I should toss it and next time I get wood, he'd replace it. I asked if he wanted to see it. He said no, just tell him what size it was. It was 4/4 x 11" wide and 8' long. He did replace it some time ago, but for some reason I stuck it up on the rack out of the way. About a month ago, I was digging around and re-found this stick. I was actually cleaning and doing some reorganizing when I found it. I thought , why not try something for the outside at the house or shop, pretty wouldn't be important, but function would. So I opted for a small bench. And, I thought I'd put it on our covered front porch, where it now sits. It wasn't done especially well, mainly because it will probably be destroyed in a couple of years from people, dogs and weather. The plastic chairs will surely outlast it. I used hand cut dovetails as the primary joinery. I haven't done any dovetails in a very long time. I had a Leigh jig but sold it because reading the damn manual took more time than cutting bad joints by hand. And as I said, pretty wasn't the priority. Here's how it turned out. Bench number 2 is slightly different..... This bench is made from figured Cherry and from a different wood supplier. This bench is 42" wide x 18" tall and 14" deep it was made out of one board of 7/4 Cherry. This bench is going at the foot of a bed, as a place to remove shoes and socks or whatever.. The request was for a trestle design, and from a rough sketch it was approved. You all have seen trestle designed tables so there's no reason to add any more info about that. The finish is two coats of Danish oil a week apart. the bench has 3 coats of poly on the underside and the actual seat has 5 coats of satin poly. There are fixed walnut wedges and all that's left is to show it in it's natural state. They were both fun and they both do what they were designed to do. Any comments that are mean spirited will receive a Voodoo spell cast on them.....
  21. 11 points
    Finished! I applied 6 coats of a wiping poly (minwax wipe on poly) over 4 days last week. For some of the first coats i was able to get 2 in 4 hours apart. For the last 2 i let them cure for 24 hours. I sanded between each coat except the 1st and 2nd because they were done too close together to be able to sand. Finished the last coat with a buff with 2,000 grit to remove the final nubs and make the finish buttery smooth feeling. Brought everything upstairs for assembly figured i'd step through how well it can be disassembled. All the parts. I looked at it and immideatly though about how i manufactured my own IKEA table assembly required.... . The stretcher goes through the legs and secures with wedges. Hammer required. It was at the point where i had both legs togehter and was putting the top on that i found a weak point in my design. I didn't make the material outside the wedges large enough and i ended up splitting an end open. No big deal i have some 3/16th brass rod. I drilled a hole 15/16ths of the way though and sent the brass rod home with some superglue so it doens't fall out. Set the table on top and send the screws home through the legs and table is together. So in reality this is FAR easier than anything IKEA ever would sell you. Not sure why they can't get this stuff right..... Here are some glamor shots. Now i just have to wait 7 days to see how it functions in use. So my final thoughts on the extensions. I Don't feel the most confidant in their strength. I'd never put my full weight on them but as far as sitting at the table and leaning on them fully loaded with food they will be more than enough. With out the extensions everything is incredibly strong. I put my full weight on every edge and never got so much as a creak. The table will tip over width wise with probably 150 lbs of force down but that's more than my parents table growing up so no issues there. There is no racking in the assembly i could grab and end and pull the table around. The feet dug into the carpet so pushing doesn't work.
  22. 11 points
    About a year ago Fine Woodworking Mag had an article on a Clark Kellogg piece that stuck in my mind. I owe the LOML a small cabinet for displaying some personal items. I am drawing heavily from Clark's design in FWW and on his site. This is my take. I will be making it out of some tiger maple that I think I shared earlier. It has been waiting around to turn into something. Like Clark, I start with the curved door. Per his recommendation it is easier to adjust the curve of the carcass than to fit the door to a given curve. Makes sense to me, I'm going for it. A curved bottom plane makes quick work of the small door panel. A more-flexible-than-most Veritas card scraper cleans things up nicely. The other side is convex so a No4 sized plane takes care of that. And here's the rough blank for the door. This is just a demo of how something like a known thickness gift card scrap can augment your setup blocks. The extra small increment centered my mortises on my layout lines for the Domino. The dividers in the case are wedge shaped to give me the look I am after. The same bench plane as before takes care of this. The Incra rule is handy for this sort of layout. I must confess that I had questioned the value of a Domino as I have had it for some time but, never found it quite the right tool for the job. It really shows its worth in production style mortising. The layout lines on the dividers are used for the layout on the top and bottom. Part of the layout work with the setup blocks was the reference line for the marked divider to be positioned. I just use the same marks for plunging the mating mortises for these slip tenons. And here's a dry fit. There are a lot of ways to do knife hinges, here's mine. I apologize for being picture heavy. I hope it helps some folks. I use the washer to create an offest from the side where the hinge will mount. I do this to achieve an equal reveal all around the door. These Brusso hinges do not want to give up their washers so . . . I use another piece of gift card; perfect fit. The light blue line you can sort of see is the front curve of the door panel. The hole in the hinge centers on this line. A steel rule will help me square the hinge leaf with the carcass and provide a consistent position. Here's the gift card scrap standing in for the washer. An there's your spot. I use a marking knife to mark the position so I can return after the next step. My fingers show where I will scribe along the front and at the square end. Here I have marked it in pencil to make it easier to see in the pics. I stick the leaves on double stick tape. Trim to fit. Using a knife in the previously made cut as a stop I position the leaf and press it down to stick. Now, with the tape giving me super-human strength, I can mark around the hinge easily. And it's like so. I'm going to hog out (can you way "hog-out" when it is only about a cc of material?) the waste with a Dremel and clean it up with a chisel. I zero the bit and use the leaf to set the final depth of cut. And there you go. When you press these in to check the fit you can use the other leaf to lever it back out. I use the tape trick again for the door half of the hinges. I use something flat to help me set the hinge flush with the door edge. The other axis is set by the edge of the door dividing the hinge pin hole in half. I use a wheel gauge to cut the fibers where the mortise will extend past the face and edge of the door panel for a clean cut. The door is narrow so I add some scrap for support as well as a backer function. And it comes out like so. I use Grandpa's egg beater drill for delicate work like this. Dry fit the case yet again with the carcass side of the knife hinges attached (I just use one screw for now). Place the other half of the hinges on the pins and slide the door on. Again I attach the door with just one screw top and bottom for now. Open Sesame! I will add more as I go. I am only able to hit this project off an on for a while but, I will try not to drag it out too long ;-)
  23. 11 points
    My latest turning. From this very square block of Kosso (a.k.a African Rosewood), to this Sorry that last picture is out of focus, but I think that is the best view.
  24. 11 points
    Well here is the fix. It was a lot smaller sliver then one would think and the fact that it was end grain made it a challenge to handle and it snapped while I was fitting it. I took a beater chisel and dulled up the business end some and used it to push the remaining sliver in and then used a chisel to flush it up with the rest of the rail. Because it snapped while I was fitting it there is no glue but I didn't want to pry it out and start over. But I think it is a compression fit of sorts and once the finish goes on I think it will be fine... I hope.
  25. 11 points
    As part of my commitment to share my work more, here is a console table I finished in early April. After browsing Stickley's site, I became inspired to produce some Arts & Crafts style furniture for our entry way & living room. I really like the lines of this mission style furniture, particularly the use of QSWO. Construction mainly consisted of floating tenons, the drawer construction is dovetailed soft maple. I ended up using side mount drawer slides and wish I would've just used some light duty under mounts instead; I was concerned about losing drawer depth. The finish on this piece (as well as the clock) was achieved by following Jeff Jewitt's mission oak finish technique. It's a multi step process that takes some time but its all worth it in the end I think. I went back and forth on different drawer pulls but ultimately went with authentic Stickley hardware that was purchased through Rockler, while not cheap, I thought it only made sense to go authentic. Thanks for viewing.