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  1. I just finished these two nightstands this past weekend. They are made of Sapele and finished with one coat of blond shellac and then I sprayed 3 light coats of General Finishes High Performance. I will be making the bed to go with them but won't get that started until June sometime.
    20 points
  2. It doesn't rain often around here but when it does odd things sprout up.
    18 points
  3. I have been meaning to post pictures of this project for a while. I actually finished this in Feb. I was going to do a journal, but as I started to work it up I realized there wasn't much different in my process this time as compared to the last time that I journaled. Xenia is the Ancient Greek custom and practice of offering hospitality without hesitation, particularly to strangers. So here are some pictures: The base piece is made from Honduran mahogany and the basin is maple. The finish is Osmo Polyx-Oil satin.
    17 points
  4. As many of you know my father passed away a week ago Monday and as we work through the process one of the things that came up was the need for an URN for his ashes. The family decided to go with a wooden box type urn. As the funeral home showed us what was available they either looked really cheap or the prices climbed to the $1K range. Knowing my father (who was quite cheap LOL) I offered to make the the box and thought I would take you all along for the ride. First up was the design we wanted something clean and fairly simple yet nice. I decided to go with what I had in the shop so originally was thinking a walnut box with a birdseye maple lid but after refining the design switched to curly maple, more on that later. First up was to pull some some stock After finding the wood I wanted to use I did some resawing. I will do a four side match on the box and also prepped the wood for the veneer After resting for a few days I brought the shop made veneer down to about 1/16" using a sled at the drum sander Next up I laid out the lid design. I decided it was time to put to use the Scott Grove veneer classes I have been taking. After getting the design laid out I decided the curly maple would look better then the birdseye. My feeling was the curly would look like rays behind the cross or at least that's what I hoped. So I set out cutting, planing and fitting each piece Next up I prepped the bottom for glue up. Two layers of resawn walnut and an 1/8" MDF filler After prep they went into the vacuum bag For those interested I use a qualityvak.com system Next up I came up with the cross size Then set about creating a fence syetem that wouldn't allow me to mess this up LOL Fine tuned with hand tools I glued the long piece in first then rinse and repeat for the cross piece After a little clean up with a hand plane it was ready for finish Next up I need to make the box sides.
    17 points
  5. This was a build for my dog agility instructor. Somehow over the years, The chess table that had been in her family got lost or stolen. She asked if I could make one for her and she wnated her parents initials in the top of the table. In the following pics t he chess squares are 1/42" carelian birch and walnut on Baltic birch plywood The frame is solid walnut. The playing surface is 16 x 16" and the table is 26" square overall. Frame is glued to the border with the addition of 3 dominoes along each side. I changed the domino depth setting just a bit beween drilling the boards and drilling the frame so that the framewould be ever so slightly proud of the board. So I could sand the frame downe to meet the thin veneer. I wanted to do as little sanding on the veneer as possible. The frames's miter joinery is a little differnet. A couple of typical dominoes along each miter was my first thought unitl I realized that the dominoes sticking out would not allow installation of the 4th side of the frame. After a discussion with @RichardA ( thank you Rick ) I decided to cut a long, shallow mortise using the domoino machine into each border piece and use 2 dominoes end to end and sideways in the mortise. This allowed enough clearance to insert the 4th side of the frame whil keeping the accuracy of domino alignment. The side apron stringing is 1/32" wide and about 1/16" deep basswood. legs and apron are finished with 2 coats of dewaxed shellac (rag applied) and 3 coats of Satin ARS - rag applied. The tophas 2 coasts of shellac and several coats of GF water based poly. I used a brush for the poly and got brush marks. I snade them out and tried a sponge applicator got spnge applicator marks. Resanded. Many thanks to @Pkinneb who graciously agreed to spray the top with my remaining poly. Turned out great. About the initials. A friend of mine that I met at a veneering class about 3 years ago has become very good and Marquetry. He offered to cut the walnut initials into little carelian birch rectangles and did a great job. I cut the rectangles to size and routed and glued them into the top. I have a very happy client and again thanks to those who helped.
    17 points
  6. My DIL has a sister (lives on the other side of the country) who is an extremely unfit parent, so they have taken on legal guardianship of he 7 YO son. So now I am his defacto grandfather. His other grandfather is a turd and has nothing to do with the boy. Anyway, they are camping with us and we went on a hike. He's never been camping or hiking and is loving it. We've really hit it off and enjoy each other's company a lot. Poor kid has been through a lot and it's going to take a lot of time and love to make things right. But he's a great kid and sure wants to belong to a family
    17 points
  7. Finally finished up the Shaker End Table from the Guild. Learned a ton, made my share of mistakes but overall I’m pleased with how it came out. My first time using cherry. Was just asked by SWMBO when her coffee table and TV stand will be done.
    16 points
  8. About a year ago I read Nick Offerman's book. It's a pretty fun read if you have not read it. In that book, he has a picture of a table designed and built by George Nakashima. It's this picture: When I saw that picture I was immediately smitten with this design. To my eye this table is somehow both complex and simple at the same time. I knew when I saw the table I needed it on my todo list. I could not start on the table right away. I had to remodel our kitchen which took an incredible amount of time. I had to build some shelves. I also built a small counter top for our laundry room. All that took many months. Too many months. And all through those months I could not get this table out of my head. And now that we are in the dead of the summer here in Arizona.....where it has been around 117 degrees for a couple of weeks.....I have finally been able to get started. I did some googleing and found some more pictures of the table to emulate. I was also able to find some rough plans: I now have enough enthusiasm and knowledge to be very dangerous. So I went and bought some wood! The 4 boards on the right are 8/4 white oak, these will make up the table top. These are 10 feet long. My table is only 6 feet but they only sell them in full lengths. I will have a lot of big off cuts. White oak is my favorite so I suppose having some extra white oak kicking around is not a bad thing. The board on the far left is 12/4 white oak. I SHOULD be able to get all the pieces needed for the base out of just that one board. We'll see though. Just getting these monster boards out of the truck and into my garage by myself took some mental (and physical) gymnastics but I did it. I am building the base first and I will do the top last. My reasoning is that if I were to glue up the table top, which will be 3'x6' then that top is going to be very heavy. Way too heavy for me to move by myself safely. And at that size the top will probably be in the way in my small shop/garage and would require being moved around a lot. But the individual boards, while still heavy, are much easier to move around. For the base I am starting from the ground up. I'll make the long "runner" that runs along the floor first, then the "feet" that sick out to either side, then angled "legs" and end with the cross pieces at the top of the legs. To make the base I need to turn that large 12/4 board into smaller boards. As you can imagine, this took a bit of time. But I rather enjoyed it. Here is what you are looking at in the above pic. I jointed and planed the long floor runner (I don't really know what to call that thing) and that is what you are seeing on the right, it's just under 5' long. To it's left, that large piece will be the "legs". That piece is just over 5' long, it will be cross cut directly down the middle for the legs. Below the leg piece is the part I will be using for the feet. And below the already milled piece is where I will get the cross supports that will be the top of the legs. I ended up ripping all 10' of that board by hand. I was not as sore as I thought I would be, but I did get more blisters than I thought I would. All of those parts got crosscut and milled. Now for the REALLY fun stuff. The joinery! Starting with the Floor Runner and the Feet. This is the runner. It gets a notch. I cut close to the line then did relief cuts. Chisel out then waste trying hard not to blow out the back side. Establish my marking lines. Not flawless but she's square and my knife lines ended up perfect. Now for the feet. This joint is a little trickier. Need to make this lap on both sides, so mark it, cut it, chisel it. Clean up with the router plane. Then clean up with the chisel. I need to make a notch in the foot that will correlate to the notch in the runner. Same exact steps as the others. Cut. Rough chisel work. Then some fine chisel work. Ready for a dry fit. Fits very snug. I actually had to plane the sides of the runner a little bit to get the joint to seat fully. Here is the bottom which no one will see. Here is the top looking VERY sharp. And both feet done! I have left everything long. I will not cut the runner or the feet to their final width until I have the table top made. That way I will have a much better sense of proportions. Next I will work on the legs. The leg joinery will be very similar to the joinery for the feet but this time the runner will be getting the laps on the sides and the legs will just receive the notch. Anyone know what the name of that joint is? I assume it is some kind of bridle joint. Housed Bridle Joint? Lapped Bridle Joint? Well whatever it's called it was my first time doing it. I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to figure out how to mark everything. Thanks for taking the time to look. I'll keep updating as I get stuff done, but don't hold your breath, I do not get much opportunity to do much woodworking. I currently have no time for the next 2 weeks. But I'll keep plugging along. If anyone sees any red flags that I am overlooking please shout them out. I still very much consider myself a beginner and could use the help of you veterans.
    16 points
  9. Our granddaughter’s other grandfather has a ranch in south Texas and loves to be outdoors. Her dad taught her to shoot at an early age and turned her loose in a blind at age 14 and scored this doe. This year, she was taken off of the doe, cull buck only list and got this 10 pt. fellow. She’s darn good at the pistol range too when we can find ammo.
    15 points
  10. It seems strange that I've only been on this site for just six plus years. But it never lets me down, you old guys and even the new guys make this place enjoyable, and instructive. I've learned and grown in my woodworking thanks to all of you, and since today is Christmas eve, I just want to thank you all for your input, and wish each and everyone of you a very Happy holiday, and a Merry Christmas. You're a good bunch!
    15 points
  11. As some of you may recall ( or not), I Started taking on line carving classes from Mary May last spring and took a carving class at Marc Adams school from Alex Grabavotskiy this fall. So enough with just carving practice lessons in basswood. Here are some of my first carved piece. Sides have the background lowered leaving the carving. The rossetes on the doors are carved appliques carved separately. Cheap Woodcraft African Mahogany. Nice wood for carving.
    15 points
  12. Alison's son asked if I would make a 32" lazy Susan for him to give to his aunt for her birthday. I'm in the high, dry desert of northern New Mexico and they live in hot, humid, Houston, so wood movement was a big concern. He sent me a link to a YT video of a maker making one out of construction lumber. I couldn't see doing that. I figured veneering would make more sense and remain much more stable. I resawed some walnut for the veneer. I remembered that Craig Thibodeau has a chapter in his book on veneering where he did a large starburst pattern. What do you know, his example was 32" in diameter. Saved me from doing the math. I made the template from ½" MDF to exact size. After rough cutting the shapes at the bandsaw, I sandwiched the veneers into a stack with the template on top and used the edge sander to sneak up on the line. They came out great and took no time at all. I laid them up on 1" (2 layers of ½") MDF with poplar veneer as a backer. I used Titebond Cold Press Veneer glue. Worked really well. I used a router on a shop made circle jig to cut it out. Then made a template from ½" Baltic birch, tweaking it by clamping a spare roll of drum sander paper to the circumference of the veneered panel. Dialed it in spot on. I used the Domino to align the top surfaces and banded it in 1 ¼" walnut. I used the circle jig again to cut the ⅛" inlay channel and sized some cherry down to a snug fit. Note - Sometimes planing the banding can be tricky if there's any wavy grain. It's impossible to see because of the thin piece. I dampen it slightly and it planes like butter. I installed the 24" diameter turntable hardware after putting a coat of Osmo on the bottom, then hit the top. I still have a couple of coats to go before it's ready to ship. Evan is happy with it.
    14 points
  13. Final inspection complete. The next phase begins: 2100
    13 points
  14. I have to share this news with you folks. In fact I think you get some of the credit for encouraging me. One of my pieces was chosen by the American Association of Woodturners for inclusion in the AAW's 2021 Member Exhibition, Finding the Center. I'm dumbfounded. I just had no expectation of being selected; I almost didn't enter. The piece they selected was "Offering", wip down to the bottom of the first page this journal to see some pictures: The exhibit is at the AAW gallery in Minneapolis and runs from Sept 5 to Dec 30, so I've got a while to wait. But if next fall you find yourself in the vicinity, with absolutely nothing else to do, and it's raining, heavily, and unseasonably cold, you can pop in their gallery for a look at the exhibition.
    13 points
  15. I just completed a kitchen renovation. It took 51 days and mostly with out surprises but there were a couple of things that added to the adventure. One was some water damage around the sink and dishwasher but I was expecting this as we had some dishwasher problems about three years ago and this required some subfloor replacement. The other was when the counter tops were installed I had to move the plumbing around under the sink to line up with the new drain locations and the way the new garbage disposal installed. This was no big deal, I just don't like plumbing. Just because I am at the age where I just don't want to work on my hands and knees any more I hired a neighbor thats a floor installer to do the floor. This served two purposes, I didn't want to do it and he hasn't had much work during the pandemic. The guy did top notch work, even the edges against the wall that were going to be covered by base board were straight as an arrow. The other thing that we farmed out was the counter tops, just not an amateur type project for the product that we selected. Everything else we did ourselves. We went with painted cabinets, because the cabinets were still in good shape from when I built then 23 years ago. But the did need prettying up and I didn't want to do a bunch of stripping scraping and sanding. I did make all new doors and drawer fronts, I went with Shaker Style with Blum hinges. We have a peninsula and when I built them I wasn't smart enough at the time to have access on both sides so this time around I opened up the back side to get better use of the space and made and installed sliding doors, hinged doors wouldn't work because of they're location. These first four pictures, with me standing in the same location to take them are before and after. BEFORE looking at the left side. AFTER BEFORE looking at the right side. AFTER And a couple of pictures of the new opening on the peninsula.
    13 points
  16. For the past 25 years, we have lived with these Ikea bench stools in our kitchen ... We do not eat much at the bench, but they get used. More recently Lynndy suggested that we replace them, and I thought that this would be a good excuse to build something inspired by Wharton Escherick, whose stools are just so organic and profound in their simplicity. The design was also influenced by a point made by Lynndy that a fixed-height footrest does not fit everyone. I thought about this and it occurred to me that the stretchers on the Escherick stools could form the basis of a slightly different design - make the seat three-sided, and one could choose the stretcher height to suit. The last requirement was that the wood must be Hard Maple, to match the kitchen I built a few years ago. I would have preferred a contrasting top, say in Walnut, but She Who Must Be Obeyed vetoed this. So ... I did manage to get contrasting wedges for the tenons passed her The stretchers .... One last one ... I'll am happy to post build photos if there is interest. Regards from Perth Derek
    13 points
  17. Alright, I have not been hiding, I've been varnishing my a*% off. Four coats top and four coats bottom after a lot of fairing and sanding of the epoxy base. After varnishing, on went the additions that make the boat complete. Here are the pics; Ready for the water, fully rigged and set up, just need to add the float bag for the front compartment; Handmade walnut handles drilled thru hull; Front bungee cords, left them a little long to see how it goes; Bungee cords again and hatch behind the cockpit; Hatch in place and off, you can see the foam seal, takes quite a bit of force to latch down, expect that to improve as the foam compresses; Cockpit set up and ready for the water; And some pics off the sawhorses; I will have to say this was a really fun build, a complete pleasure. Fortunately my past experiences with glassing were a big help. I think I'll be building more of these, but for now I have to run this one through it's paces. This is a wider beamed boat more for recreation, will see how I enjoy this before making another. May go longer and skinnier for speed, may go with a sit on top version for a great fishing platform, or I may go with one just like this if my wife wants one. Or maybe I should just make them all. Thanks for looking.
    13 points
  18. I had a request from a friend to build a chess board for his wife's birthday. I figured it would be a fun project so I agreed. My plan was to make the board out of veneer initially but couldn't wrap my mind around how to ensure the veneer was cut perfectly. So instead i cut 1/8" thick shop veneer and just used the table saw. I started by sawing enough veneer to make roughly 2 boards as I'd need to do a balanced panel. Once i had the veneer cut and sanded on the drum sander I ripped out 2.25" wide strips. I figured it'd be easiest to make this like a cutting board and glue the pieces together into a board then cross cut strips. I used plywood cauls to keep everything nice and flat. Then alternating the cross cut strips it was easy to build out the checkerboard. The backside was more walnut and maple, I didn't go through the effort to make the hidden underside checkered but it still looks nice. To glue the checkerboard onto the Baltic birch core, i used blue tape that I stretched out. There is just enough elasticity in painters tape to hold a project like this together. On the left side of the core i glued down a scrap strip that I jointed and used to align the checkerboard. It helped me get everything strait and square. after glued I'd just trim this piece off. To glue my shop veneer down i used a layer of pink insulation 3 pieces of plywood and a lot of cauls and clamps. I just used my regular TB II wood glue. This got me some good squeeze out around the edges so I figured it got me enough pressure. I really should buy a vacuum bag kit. After the glue set I trimmed the board to size this revealed a nice sandwich with no visible voids. After the core was done I just made a frame and box to raise the board a bit. Finish was applied and project complete. I used miters to make the frame and box that acts as the stand. The corners of the box were reinforced with splines.
    12 points
  19. Last summer I helped my youngest granddaughter, nine at the time, make a coffee table. A couple of weeks ago my seventeen year old granddaughter ask if I could help her Make a jewelry box for her boy friends birthday. In both cases I was just the teacher and safety adviser. They both did the actual work. I thought I would post some pictures of different parts of the process. Making miter cuts for the box sides. Appling finish to the insides of the box before the glue up. The box all glued up. Thats her tray prototype in the back ground. Making a blade change. Setting the miter gauge stop block There is a tray that goes in the box and here she is cutting the miters on some of those parts. The tray glued up and the box itself. Gluing up... ... and assembling the dividers for the tray. Some final sanding before applying finish to the outsides of things. And finally spraying the top coat. I should add that the box, tray and lid handle are all Cherry and the lid itself is Birdseye Maple. A couple of finished project shots.
    12 points
  20. Joinery cut and dry fit.
    12 points
  21. Finally, after some danish oil on the trim ... it's ready. I've found before with cherry, that different boards can have a different colour when the finish is furst applied, hopefully as it ages, the colours will even out. Now I have to find out if it will fit through the door into the house ... maybe I should have measured that first!
    12 points
  22. My granddaughter turns 18 May 3rd, I know I got a project done early for a change amazing, I'm usually putting finish on the night before I have to give a gift. I'm happy with the table but, crazy about the finish (my daughter says she loves it) oh well to late to do anything about it. The table is knotty pine with a water based poly finish I made all the moldings on my new router table I'm loving that thing why I waited so long to build one..... I tried my hand at turning some drawer pulls I think they came out good for a first try the are made out of scrap 8/4 walnut.
    12 points
  23. Attached the bottom tonight and took some final beauty shots. Wish I would have had more time to play with some additional inlay strips recommended by Scott Grove but can't risk mucking this one up so I will probably make another similar one to try that on. That's a wrap! Thanks for following along
    12 points
  24. I took my son for his driving exam today, then whatched him drive home in my rearview mirror. His "new" car may be several years old, but you'd think it just rolled off the assembly line... Sorry, too dark for photos, this is a dealer pic.
    12 points
  25. I didn’t do a journal on here but I did snap a few pics along the way. The lumber was sourced from a walnut tree that I cut down about 6 years ago in Louisiana and brought back to Houston to be milled. I’ve made a couple of end tables from some of it but had several 8/4 slabs waiting on the right project. We had a new bathroom added to our house and decided I wanted to build the door going from our bedroom to the bathroom. Here are the slabs in rough form. And after I took a belt sander to them to see what kind of grain I had to work with. After milling to approximately 1 1/2” thick, I cut the rails and stiles to dimension and it was time for assembly. Joinery was with floating tenons and the mortises were cut with the Domino. As I had no experience at building a door, there was considerable pucker involved here. i mortised out for the glass on one side and made some trim pieces to hold the glass. As I only have a couple of slabs of this left, I didn’t want to mill them down for 3/4” lumber for the jamb and casing so I purchased 4/4 stock. With the help of an article written by @Tom Kingon another site he linked me to, I built the jamb and secured it in place. I want to also give credit to members on Kev’s site that held my hand and gave invaluable advice along the way. Finish is ARS with several coats of GF HP top coat. Thanks for looking.
    12 points
  26. Off and on over the past 8 months I have been in the process of handing down my model trains (last used when I was a kid) to my eight year old Grandson. I re scued the oldest of my 3 trains from my sisters closet. It was reapinted yellow in the 1940's and the paint was flaking off. So I decided to bead blast and repaint it with Erie decals in memory of my fathers time with the Erie railroad. Here's on pic of this 100 year old train and two pics of all three: 1950 Diesel, 1934 Steam engine and 1920-ish electric. I think that I am having more fun than my Grandson.
    12 points
  27. Finished up the trim and made the marquee Then took some much deserved time off to watch football Well after 2 years and 2 months this build is officially construction complete! Thanks for following along!! Next up either xmas gifts or furniture not sure which but it will be a week or two...
    12 points
  28. I saw this table in PW about six years ago and finally got around to building it. The original plans were for a bow front; however, I elected to make a straight front. It’s made of Sapele with Bubinga Burl veneer. The construction is typical mortise and tenon except the upper front rail which is dovetailed. The biggest challenge was to incorporate the curved veneers into the lower rail. I’ve learned to back my inlays with balsa which makes the inlays more rigid and easier to outline before inlaying.
    12 points
  29. Quick update, the strip deck is just about completed. A lot of fiddling to get the pieces to fit and you really can do all of this by hand. I've been using a handsaw, block plane and rasps to fit together the strips. Here's were I'm at right now, hope to finish up the deck by the end of the weekend. Stern is pretty much done, 2 very small sections need to be filled in but I'll do that once I take the deck off for glassing; Bow is coming along; To fit together the pieces you need to cut your angles and make a cove where one is needed, rat tail rasp works great; Or make a bead where needed; That piece will fit here; Another neat tool is to use a small piece of stripping wrapped in sandpaper to help shape your coves and beads; Thanks for looking.
    12 points
  30. This week I decided it was time to make a couple upgrades to my existing tool. First I replaced my 1950's Craftsman jointer with a new Grizzly 6" jointer. Then I I upgraded my crappy HF 8" drill press with a new 12" Grizzly drill press. I decided to mount it to my large Husky too box. To do this I had to move my spindle sander to my small Husky tool box. This is where I had my old drill press mounted. I originally put the new one on it but I decided it felt to unstable.
    11 points
  31. It was Saturday but due to a premature baby for the scheduled officiant I was honored to marry my youngest Oh and a little woodworking project too
    11 points
  32. Hello Fellas, It's been a while! I am building a record cabinet for a client. They wanted a record cabinet for their records because his dad passed and left him all of his records. As such, the records have sentimental value to him, and he wants them on display. Here is the design. The wood for the project is going to be ebony veneer, Fiddleback Sycamore veneer and holly. Lets get into this! First, I am joining all of the veneer too MDF. There are some major downsides to MDF though, the main one being weight and sag. So, the solution I came up with is making my own lumber core plywood. It will be 1/2 Poplar sandwiched between two sheets of 1/4 MDF. Glued together with Ultra Cat resin glue. I actually stole this idea from Craig Thirdeau. To start, I milled the lumber to strips of 2 1/4. This relieved some of the stress of the boards. I discarded any boards that I thought might cause a problem in the future. Then, glued them together. Then, I skip planed them down to 3/4". I let these sit for a couple days to warp again. After that, I glued on a piece of MDF . I then brought it down to its final thickness of 1/2. I ran it through the sander to remove the snipe from the planer and glued the MDF Sheets on using a veneer press. I applied this same idea to all three of the shelves. Next, I drew out my design to figure out the proportions of the veneer. Mainly looking for the size of the borders. Because I can't find any Holly veneer, I made some the same thickness as the ebony. I achieved this by cutting thin strips with my bandsaw and making a small jig to run through my sander until I got the strips down to 1/64. More to follow once my vacuum press opens back up, and I can start to work on the veneer.
    11 points
  33. I wanted to share this build, it really goes quickly and it's a design that I came up with while posting the story on the log, the slab and the table. The joinery is simple and by varying the size of the legs it can serve as an end table, a plant stand, or (fill in the blank). I like how there is a certain flow that develops from the underside of the table down into the legs. This area is refined and sculpted after the table is put together. @Mark J noted in my previous build post that he liked this small table better than the table the post was about. I tend to agree with him. I'll take you thru the thought process, the build and the final piece all in one post. This really is a long weekend project for me and the build I show here will end up being a plant stand instead of a table, so it is only 14" tall instead of 22" like the original table was. Here's the original "afterthought table" from the other post; So to start on this table I made a pattern for my leg. This leg is much shorter than the leg I developed for the table above. Also I used a "leftover" section of the hexagonal "post" I made for the original table. Since there are three legs, you need the six sided post. I also like the three leg design because the table always sits flat without rocking, even on an uneven floor; The leg can really be any shape, as long as you have a square inside corner. This corner is the key to this project; NOTE: You can accomplish the below operation also by starting with a wider board that has a straight edge and has a corresponding 90 degree cut. You can place the pattern in the corner and just cut out the leg from there. But I do it the way shown below to develop a grain that follows the curve of the leg more, resulting in a more attractive look and stronger grain orientation. So I milled up some stock that is pretty close to the thickness of one of the sides of the hexagon. Working out the three legs on this stock; You'll notice in the above pic and the below pic I draw an extended straight line that is part of the key right angle at the top of the leg; I cut along this line with the bandsaw first; Next I true up this line on the jointer; Now I can cut my 90 degree angle on the table saw; After that it's simply cutting out the rest of the leg with the bandsaw. But it is important to save these top cut off pieces for glue up, you will see me use these later; Here's how the leg structure fits together, the legs will be glued to the hexagonal post and it will be a nice long grain to relatively long grain glue joint; On to the top, a hunk of figured wood in rough form; Milled to thickness, around two inches wide and cut freehand on the bandsaw to 11" round. Showing each surface; I picked the surface in the second pic for the top side of the table. I then found the center point and tried on the legs; Some critical landmarks; an outline of the hexagonal post, the center point, and the end point of each leg; Center 1/2" dowel hole and a circle representing the circle the legs "make", basically a circle that falls on the line where the legs end; Beveling the underside starts at the bandsaw; Then to the bench where I use a Festool RAS to develop the rough bevel; Corresponding 1/2" hole in the hexagonal post (both holes drilled on drill press) and the 1/2" dowel ready to be glued; Gluing post to top; Some shaping of the post on the faces the legs will not be glued to; Shaping the legs, done with rasps; Gluing first leg. Need to glue one leg at a time and the cut off pieces from the legs are put to use now for the glue up. I also glue the top part of the leg to the underside of the table. That's a weak end grain to long grain glue joint, but it doesn't hurt to do it anyway; All three legs glued on, now to the final shaping; Goal is to blend the bevel into the legs; Like this, and then making the bevel uniform all the way around the top; A little cleanup at the post/leg joint, do this with a sharp chisel; And finished, sanded to 320 and Osmo finish; Hope this was helpful post. This shows a pretty straight forward construction without elaborate joints. It's a versatile table that can be made at different heights and for different uses. I'll be making more of these in the future, it also is a good use of figured chunks of wood and doesn't use much wood in the construction. I do think the 2" thick top is a little excessive with this table and I'm going to make the next one with a 6/4 top. The first table's top was about that thick, 6/4. I also think the longer legs with the taller table look more elegant than the shorter planter sized table. I'm wondering if I could use this design for a lamp build, a lamp table combo, how's that sound @JohnG?
    11 points
  34. Your house maybe too small, or have hallways too narrow, for the typical demilune table. My wife wanted some thing for dropping keys and such so I made this. Cherry top and bottom with MDF core covered with a cherry veneer, maple legs, a small drawer in the middle for holding miscellaneous objects. It’s nothing special and not everything I wanted it to be, but it will do the trick. Attached to the wall with a keyhole and a pan head screw into the stud. I originally considered a four-leg design but this seem to work out more practical. Also, I attached the veneer using the thick white glue mentioned earlier. It does not soak through and warp the veneer so it’s practical for small pieces.
    11 points
  35. I had the pleasure of a visit today from @Ronn W on his way back from woodworking school, great time, much wood talk, and a great lunch provided by my wife. Thanks for stopping by Ronn, always good to see you and talk wood stuff.
    11 points
  36. for hand surgery. I had a locking thumb that was painful. The surgery was 2 hours ago and is already feeling better.I have flexibility already. But doc says no work until the stitches are out.
    11 points
  37. Ok I lied I have to post one more pic...on my desk the top really pops! Apparently I need to read up on lighting for photos LOL
    11 points
  38. Glue up went well Next up was to cut for some keys Then glued them in and trimmed them at the BS Then I fit the bottom that will screw in for access. That'll work And finally glued in the attachment points for the bottom before starting the finishing process. Last step will be to rub out the finish and take a couple beauty shots later this week.
    11 points
  39. @wtnhighlander, Funny you should say that. It rained (well, what we call rain anyway) the few days before the building was going up. Despite repeated warnings about the electrical trench one guy pulled in and stopped right on it. It had been back-filled and compacted but, none of that means squat compared to Mother Nature's compacting process. His buddy was waving him forward like crazy but, for some reason he just sat there and sank up to the axle. This meant the other trucks/trailers that arrived had to stop behind him. Parts had to be carried to the slab when there was roadway leading right beside it. The poor guy got grief all day long from his guys. They work fast. Here's 9am: And here's 5pm: If they would have had 3 more hours of daylight I would have been inspected today.
    11 points
  40. I took these 3 picture in 2018 on our trip Ireland. Dunluce Castle, Northern Ireland, UK Kylemore Abbey, Co. Galway, Ireland Ha'penny Bridge, Dublin Ireland Believe it or not, these 3 are all taken on a Motorola G5 cell phone. I was contacted by the Ireland tourism people asking permission to use these photos in some brochures they were making after I posted them on a Irish Travel forum.
    11 points
  41. Next I did the draw bore pins a la Mike Pekovich. It's really handy to have multiple squares - one for the edge standoff, one for the top hole and one for the bottom. You may wonder why I have two Starrett 4" combo squares. I "lost" one last fall and after weeks of looking for it and finally buying a new one, found it in my apron - in the wrong pocket. I learned this little trick from a FW podcast a couple of years ago. I got a set of center punches from HF for ?? $12. The pin holes are ¼". With the boards clamped together, insert the 1/32" smaller size punch into the hole with it pressed up against the edge of the hole closest to the apron and punch it. This locates an index point just inside and toward the apron. Once drilled, it draws the tenon into the mortise. The long side aprons are close to 6 feet, so I just let gravity do the work for them. After drilling them out I used a countersink by hand to ease the edge so the pin could seat without crushing the fibers.
    11 points
  42. I'm feeling pretty good today . . .
    11 points
  43. As you guys know I'm in the shop a lot, and as a result I generate a lot of scraps, mostly designated for the woodstove. That has always bothered me because some of the wood I burn is really nice stuff, it's just odd shaped or too small to do much with. Lately I've donated alot of my scraps to a few young budding woodworkers. This gets rid of a good amt of stuff and they are so happy to have it. But I still have that pile of wood, I'm sure we all have it, that pile of some nice pieces we hope we will find a use for in the future. Well my pile just seems to keep on growing despite my efforts to off load stuff. So a few months ago I started in earnest to look for some small projects to use some of my scraps. Since the ever popular reindeer seem to catch so much attention, I started by focusing on other animals I could make with my bandsaw or lathe. Some searches on Etsy, and I found some neat little projects. I want to make clear these are copies of things I saw that were thought of by smarter people than myself. I have no intention on selling and I hope if any of those people see this post that they will consider the quote from Oscar Wilde, "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness". So here's what I've been playing with; Pengiuns, a nice addition to my reindeer herd. These were done on the lathe after a simple glue up of any dark wood and light wood. The "beak" is a 1/8th" brass rod cut and shaped; Spring Chickens, again done on the lathe, the "comb" on the top of the head is turned, cut to rough shape on the bandsaw, spindle sander to get to final shape, small vertical cuts then rasp work to make the spikes, and finally some red flocking. The "beaks" are either shaped 1/8th" kabob skewers or the shaped brass rod. These samples are turned from cherry, walnut, maple and pear; Finally, a few simple but elegant birds, cut out using a bandsaw, spindle sander to shape, and handsanding to finish. The "eyes" are nothing more than an 1/8th" hole. I'm hoping some of you out there have some simple fun projects like this to share as my "pile" is still a pile, altough slightly smaller. I've gotten into the habit of always having a few of these little projects in the works that I can play with during glueup or on finishing days. Hope this was interesting to some of you out there.
    11 points
  44. Hello, everyone. I'd like to introduce myself. I'm an amateur furniture maker/designer. I live in Oceanside, CA, about 35 miles north of San Diego. I haven't been able to do much in the last year due to Covid-19 isolation issues (age and underlying medical issues), so I haven't had any opportunity to buy supplies. But I've just received my 2nd vaccination, so I hope life will be returning to some normalcy. I've included some images of my last project, a dining room side table of 8/4 Ash. The large dovetails were interesting to make and required construction of a hefty jig to hold the (heavy!) top and sides in alignment for marking, sawing chiseling and routing. The inspiration came from a piece in Architectural Digest. I don't know who's home was being showcased, but there was a Maple table in one picture that I liked. I made my table strictly from memory. When I was finished I found the picture again. I was surprised to realize I had over-estimated the thickness of the top and sides. Also I thought I had remembered that the dovetails had interesting spacing. That detail must have come from some other piece that merged into memory as they were just rigidly laid out without any variation. In the end, I liked my design better. The dovetails are sized and spaced according to a Fibonacci sequence. I didn't take any pictures during construction, but I'll be doing a similar piece soon and I'll do that then. Cheers, Rich
    11 points
  45. Wood porn! I am building a walnut bathroom. Only one door and 10 drawers. The door will have this curly claro walnut, book matched panels. I will post the work when I get further along. This kind of wood makes me giddy.
    11 points
  46. I've not made a large number of these stools, more like a half dozen, and so I hardly count as an expert here. There are others on the forums with so much more relevant experience. Past stools have used a scorp, pull shave and travishers to shape seats, and the legs were drilled with a brace and auger bit. Tenons and mortices were tapered with shop made reamers and tenon makers ... For this build I decided to go a different route, and combine power and hand tools. One reason was that the wood chosen was Hard Maple, which is a little more work to excavate than, say, a softwood such as Radiata Pine. The boards for the seats needed to be glued from two sections as the seats were 14" across, and the maximum I had was 12". I was reasonably successful in disguising this with two of the seats. The thickness of 1 1/2" could have been 1 1/4" and saved some shaving. The stools ended up 27 1/2" high, and the legs were shaped from 1 1/2" square x 31" long sections. Below are seats cut and the template used for both the outline and marking the position of the legs ... I made a simple fixture for production ripping the legs on the slider ... Later, I built a version of this with an adjustable parallel guide fence. This will rip any width and also taper legs. The plan was to drill the mortices on the drill press using a 24mm WoodOwl auger for this purpose (no leading screw). These are to be parallel-, not tapered mortices ... The legs are a 10 degree rake and, being three legs and arranged around essentially a circle, the resultant angle is simply a line to the centre. Not a lot of skill required here. More machine work, but some hand working coming in ... The seats were turned on the lathe. Just a shallow hollow required. The reason for doing it this way was to create an even hollow in what is a three-corned, but round seat ... While at it, rough turned the legs .. Finally, the hand tools take over. First it is the drawknife to rough out the tapers on the outside edges ... Then I had a fun time using different spokeshaves (I had not had a chance to use any in some months, so this was making up for lost time) .. The Stanley #84 and #85 is an amazing shave (Jim, I believe that you gave me these). These work on the same principle as a travisher: the toe has a slight (2-3 degree) taper, which enables the depth of cut to be altered with the angle it is held to the work piece. The shaving done here is largely end grain, and the other shave to shine was the Veritas LA. The hollowed seats were further shaped and smoothed with a travisher ... Then back to shaves for shaping the sides. The HNT Gordon can shave into the grain, while the lower angle of the LN leaves a finer finish ... I smoothed the surfaces with a scraper ... ... however Lynndy disapproved and wanted a sanded finish, which is how it ended. There are a few gaps in the photos collected, such as the shaping of the legs. Not a lot here other than they taper from 25mm at the base, to 38mm at the swell, and then down to 30mm at the start of the tenon. The tenon is 24mm. Here is a shot of the three stools with legs inserted ... ... and another with one set of stretchers in place ... If anything, it is the fitting of the stretchers that was one of the more exacting parts of this build. Over-length stretchers. These are 25mm at the centre and will have 5/8" tenons .. The steps in fitting the stretchers were .. Firstly, I created a template for the positions of the legs, drawing these onto a sheet of MDF ... The lines joining the legs provided a guide for drilling. The height of the legs were marked. These were at 160mm, 190mm and 220mm. It is advisable to do these one set at a time, that is, drill the mortices, and insert the stretcher for one set of legs, then move to the next height. The reason: it is a little like fitting mitres - three corners are easy, but the last might require a little massaging. Insert the stretchers for two sets of legs, and then the last set can be marked accurately. Once the mortices are drilled (halfway), then the stretchers are measured for length. The ends of the stretchers can be turned exactly to 5/8". A great tool for this is the Sorby Sizing Tool Set (photo from Elia Bizzarri) ... When glueing up, the stretchers-into-legs must be inserted first. Only then is it possible to do the leg tenons-into-seat mortices. Once the seat goes on, the structure is triangulated, and it becomes incredibly rigid. The stretchers would be impossibly be come out unless the seat is removed. The last task is to level the legs ... .. and saw them off ... The stools were finished in one coat of Ubeaut Hard Shellac (for a little amber), and then three coats of General Finishes water-based poly were rubbed on. This finish is hard-wearing and does not yellow. Regards from Perth Derek
    11 points
  47. We finished 10 kid's desk and chair sets along with 8 student desks this morning out at my shop for the Community Desk Project! Now I have to haul some firewood around the house and put on the faucet covers before the snow hits Monday (high of 25 degrees), then it's Miller time!
    11 points
  48. 11 points
  49. Finally finished this project, nothing special about the cabinet but I think the doors are cool, 1/8” X 3/4” strips of oak and walnut in a weave pattern, corners are M&T joints, 3/16” grove to hold the strips, thanks for looking, comments, criticism, questions always welcome.
    11 points