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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 29 points
    Some of you know, and some don't. My wife was diagnosed with cancer in 2015. She went through all the necessary treatments, radiation, chemotherapy and everything they had to stop the cancer. It worked, all that was left after 2 1/2 years of treatments was scar tissue. Hooray we thought, but hold on a minute. Why wasn't she recovering? She was weak, hardly able to walk, to eat, to have a good life again. It seems that the chemicals that are used to kill off the cancer cells, also do damage to other parts of the body. Those chemicals that saved my wife's life from cancer, destroyed her stem cells. Those are the cells in the bone marrow that produce red blood, white blood cells and the platelets that people need to live, you've got'em and be damned glad you do. Her immune system was gone, totally destroyed, any damn wandering germ could kill her, so we went full, hospital gowns, latex gloves, and masks for everyone, she was on oxygen 24/7. I had to take her to the ER more times than you cross cut wood in a week. But she was tough, she never gave up, Ask Coop, that bum talked to her every week, sometimes more. 3 1/2 months ago, after 6 blood transfusions, we were told she had maybe 6 months to live. She made it to 3 months. I was with her in her hospital room when she died. It ripped my heart out. When we were told that 6 months was a possibility, I began construction on a project, I'd never dreamed I'd do. A friend, a sawyer you all know as Spanky, donated the wood. Along time close friend, an ex scooter tramp helped me make and install the hearts and hand rail, and a damned good friend flew in from Texas to do an inlay of a cross that my wife had and wanted on her casket. Never in my life did I know such good friends. The casket was built from Sassafras, so she would have that wonderful fragrance all the way to heaven. The top was curly Cherry. I did a crude carving of two hearts on one part, and my good friend [A bum} did the inlay. She died on the 19th of this month, and I buried the love of my life on Friday the 26th . Just a few days ago, and it's not real even now. These are the pictures of those friends and the casket they helped to build for a very special human. You'll be able to tell who's who. The bearded bum is my scooter tramp friend, we go back to years that should be left unmentioned. The bum in the red shirt is Ken Cooper. Probably the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I couldn't find the pic of Spanky, but if you can buy wood from this guy, he won't screw you. The rest is the short version of the build. I never wanted it to be used in my lifetime.Inside around where her hips and legs were going I saved most of the Sassafras and Cherry that I had to plane to make fit I scattered those shavings to give her that fragrance. Ken flew in for the burial, and some friends drove in from cajun country to see her off and sing her favorite song " Go rest high on that mountain". And that's where she is now, on top of a mountain called Monteagle, in Tennessee in the cemetery named for her maiden name O'Dear. and she's lying on the right hand of a man she loved......Her Father, George O'Dear. I hope I did her justice. ...........Rick
  2. 18 points
    I completed the finish process on the table two weeks ago and then the table just sat in the shop because of other things asking for my time. This morning I finally got the old table out and the new one into the house. It came in, in two pieces. For one it is heavy, and two logistically it was just the easier way. Down side to this is the tight space and lighting didn't lend itself to good pictures but here it is. Any and all comments and constructive criticism are welcome. One of the challenges of the project was to get the finish close to the same as the chairs we had purchased and over all I think I came real close. I don't think anybody off the street would know that the table was built separate from the chairs, but I will let you be the judge and let me know what you think.
  3. 18 points
    Just not very proud of what I half to do to try to make a living. I'm working on two corner cabinets and a sink cabinet. Nothing that great to show but I have always enjoyed seeing what you guys do. I just wanted to explain why you never see my stuff and will take this thread down soon..
  4. 18 points
    My daughter turned 5 in january, and she's outgrown her toddler bed. So I thought I'd try to make a new bed for her. This is my second actual furniture project, and it's turning out a lot better than my rustic/distressed maple coffee table. I used Jeff Miller's bed book plan for a shaker bed and then modified the headboard with some slats. I'm not real good at making up plans, I just had a vision in my head and then made some notes with the critical measurements. I started this in October, but hadn't touched it since December... finally this week I got around to installing the rockler bed hardware and gluing up the head and foot boards. I used cherry lumber I bought locally from Youngblood. This is the first thing I've ever made using cherry, and I'm happy with how it's turning out. And then last night, I tested the fit of everything. No room in my shop so I had to use the family room. I need to finish the bed rails with arm-r-seal, and then I have some birch to cut out slats to go across to hold a mattress. I'm pretty happy with how it's turned out.
  5. 17 points
    Lynndy and I were in Auckland, New Zealand recently for the wedding of her niece. We stayed with her brother and his wife. They have a wonderful home with some nice examples of arts and crafts furniture, one of which was an apothecary chest. I really love these pieces, and Lynndy especially has wanted one forever. So the order was placed and a spot lined up in the entrance hall. The design was mostly worked out in idle musing, and then I drew it up on sheets of 6mm MDF (I like this since the sheets end up as a story board and may be stored away more easily if needed at a later date). The orientation is vertical, rather than typically horizontal, more along the lines of a Krenov-styled cabinet. I’ve never built a Krenov-styled cabinet and, as far as I am aware, he never built an apothecary chest! In other words, this is a chest on a stand. As an aside, I am not enamoured with the spindly legs of Krenov designs, and something with substance is needed. More on this at a later date. The chest will contain 24 drawers, in 6 rows (so 4 drawers across and 6 rows down) … What has changed in the drawing above is the rows will be made to accentuate the vertical rather than the horizontal (by running the blades/dividers down first). This is more work, but is should create a different perspective. I have never seen a curved apothecary chest before, so this may be the first one … The wood is another first for me – black walnut from the USA. My local timber guy had a stack of 1” and 2” thick boards, all about 11-12” wide. (For those who see metric measurements on the plans and here is mentioned imperial sizing, be aware that this is my common practice. The jointer-planer/thicknesser I have is European, and metric. The hand tools, such as a plough plane, are imperial). The boards are thicknessed a little oversize, glued up, and then taken to final dimension with hand planes. The walnut is so easy to plane. I get why so many rave about working with it. Don’t you love it when the carcase parts are done. These are all 20mm thick … Starting to put it together Starting from the bottom up, the side panels are left a little long as they will need to be given a curved bevel to meld with the bottom panel … The dovetails are in the ratio of 6:1 – I felt the slightly extra wider base would add a little more authority. Here’s the first completed corner. It is important that the joints are tight (obviously) but also that they moved apart readily, since the cabinet carcase will be pulled apart, put together, and pulled apart many times as the drawer blades are measured and fitted ... Note, also, the area that will need to be bevelled away. This is marked. Now the dimension of the bevel is taken the length of the panel … I made up a template of the curve by grinding a piece of scrap steel (chosen because it was lying around) … … and the curve is transferred to the other end of the panel. The waste is planed away with, firstly, a jack plane (shop made) … ... and then a modified HNT Gordon trying plane … The reason for the trying plane is to keep the sides straight. A jointer plane could have substituted. The final step here is to smooth and fair the surface with a HNT Gordon mini smoother … Finally, we get to complete the basic carcase (the flash makes the walnut look light, but it is dark in tone). the dimensions are 700mm high and 300mm deep (at the centre) … Starting the vertical drawer blades/dividers These are made with merbau as a secondary wood, with walnut facing … Merbau is from northern Queensland (some is imported from Papua New Guinea). It is hard and heavy, and typically used in Oz for flooring or outdoor furniture. I am using it because it is cheap and hard. As cheap as pine and as dense and wear-resistant as jarrah. The boards are glued together and bound with blue tape .. Three vertical dividers for now … As before, they are also slightly oversize and will be planed to dimension to fit into 12mm wide dados. More later. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 17 points
    Finish the 2x4's on all sides then assemble with construction adhesive and brads from the bottom face. Screw the hairpin legs on and your done. Take no pictures, apply no signature, deny you ever built such a thing !
  7. 16 points
    copied without permission because it's true:
  8. 16 points
    I finally made a piece of furniture that will stay in our house. Most of the other items I have build ended with our kids. The goal was to build a dining table to seat 4-6 people. The table would be placed in our kitchen where there is a bay window overlooking the backyard. I chose to surprise my wife with the design. The table is based on Tim Rouseau's article in Fine Woodworking. I used air dried walnut for this project. I had bought some walnut slabs last year but have yet to use any of the lumber. I milled one of the slabs for the table. This table is not hard to make but does require lots of attention to detail and you have to be pretty precise. Here are some pics that are in sequence: Here is the end product: ***Please note that the flowers are incidental. I got those for my wife and she placed them there, which prompted meto take these pics.*** For finish, I used pre-cat shellac from Shellac Finishes. Vijay was awesome in helping me use the right product and he gave me excellent advice along the way. I think I sprayed about 12 coats of finish with last few being diluted. After allowing it to cure to a couple of weeks, I then polished with wax using 0000 steel wool following by prolonged buffing. Next will be 4 chairs.
  9. 14 points
    Just finished this barn for a friend's Grandson. Basic box is Baltic birch plywood with redwood "boards" glued to it. At least I think it is redwood. I salvaged it from my garage door jambs when I replaced them. Trim is maple and roof is a veneer strips on plywood, shellaced to darken the color. Friend is very happy. Animals are by owner. Freind says that she has had 3 people who want to buy one and one the wants to buy the plans. It was just too much work to be able charge a reasonble amount unless I could figure out a way to batch 3 together and avoid cutting the boards around the openings. Also, the roofs would have to be part of the box - too much work to make them as separate pieces. Plus I am out of redwood. I think I will just quietly move on to the next project.
  10. 14 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  11. 13 points
    Kathy and I found some new hoop or bow back chairs for the dining room that we really liked. I'm going to build the table to go with them. I thought I would do a journal if I can remember to shoot some photos during the process and there may be long pauses along the way because of the time of year for me, veggie garden, grand kids track meets and the like. Anyway this is the main inspiration for the design with some changes. But the top will look more like the on on this table but even thicker, about 1 1/2 inches and will have faux breadboard ends that will open for the expansion leaves. The other day when I brought the lumber home it was pouring outside so I stickered it up and gave it a few days to decide what it wanted to do. Its all 6/4 and 8/4 red oak. Yesterday was spent making big little ones out of big ones and getting the stack off the floor so I could move around freely again. Table legs parts. Table top parts. And future parts up on the rack.
  12. 13 points
    It's DONE !!!! 9 pm on Friday night and I am exhausted ! I think I'm going to sleep late tomorrow.
  13. 13 points
    I was going to do this as a running Journal but i finished the table in 6 days. The only reason it took 6 days is because i had to wait for a new saw blade after my resaw king snapped so that added a day. I didn't get to my computer to process the pictures for another few days so it's all going in one big dump. It was time for a new coffee table. The one i had made previously just didn't fit any more and i have a very love hate relationship with it that focuses on the hate more than the love. SO every good project starts off with a design. Here is mine. Tables are easy for me so i had some rough dimensions and didn't really fallow any of them. I used scraps from the Morris chair build and made the coffee table to fit the dimensions of the scraps. Cut the legs from 8/4 cherry and all other parts came from 5/4 cherry. I milled up the side pieces first. Below is the legs side parts and long stretchers on my material cart for transportation around the shop. Cut the tapers on the legs with the bandsaw. They taper from 2" to 1-5/8" over 16" Next was to layout the mortises for the slats on the end. I didn't want to do the slats the same way as on the Morris chair because that's too much work so i figured i'd just do a standard M&T cutting the mortise with the domino and the tenon on the table saw. I cut a practice mortise to get the width right. For the wider slat i did 3 wide plunges overlapping significantly to get the right tenon size. I took a piece of scrap and did a test fit just to make sure everything worked. Then it was off to the races resawing cutting tenons and test fitting. I had the perfect size of curly cherry left over from my TV stand build that I'd been holing on to for a while. This was the perfect spot to use it. Tenon off the table saw. Cleaned up. Love that 140 skew. For small shoulders like this a shoulder plain would be a pain. Cut shoulder on the table saw. I cut the tenon to fit inside mortise without having to round the corners. I don't see the point in including that extra material the glue connection is all end grain so it doesn't really give any strength but takes a long @($&@ time. Test fit There was an extra finesse step before glueup. Everything has been been finished prepped before glue up. I was somewhat careful with glue so that i didn't get much squeeze out and really didn't have much to clean up after. Glued the rail and stretcher in. 5/4 Cherry for the top. Got some nice boards that were just under 8". Man it's nice having an 8" jointer. Transport cart to the planer. For edge jointing i always mark the face that goes against the fence for the jointed edge. Some boards i have to run them different directions so the face is not always the same. When i go to do the glue up i make sure that the face that was against the fence alternates across the glue joint. This way any out of square for the jointer fence is negated. I used some dominos for alignment during glue up. After the top was glued i cut it to size with the track saw and ran an under bevel all the way around with the track saw. Then came some solid time with the smoothing plane to make the top smooth. I never touched the top after this with sand paper except to sand the end grain ends. The smoother doesn't leave a finish ready surface on end grain. Now it's just finish. And a topless picture. And finished and in place pictures. The morrise chair and TV stand are in the background. I have in my future some side tables that will match the style but that's in the future a ways.
  14. 13 points
    My new apprentice began today. First thing I taught him was the Mike Pekovich blue tape trick for laying out mortises (which works great by the way). Not sure if Mike will appreciate my grandson’s interpretation, but he’s in the shop. He says it’s an airplane. Fine by me. He seems to really enjoy making things and I’m going to encourage that every time I get the opportunity. At the bench, working out some design issues. He’s just like grandpa, has a running conversation with himself in the shop. After three coats of Summer allergies snot, it’s ready to go. Pass your love of craft on. The next Krenov may be lurking at your bench.
  15. 13 points
    Thougt I would share this veneer project. The hanging is 26" diameter made with Robbon sapele and Tamo Ash veneer. Assmebling peices. Blue tap used to pull pieces together and hold unitl veneer tape can be put on the show side of the piece. After Veneer taping and gluing in vacuum bag. Notice that glue was suckked thru the sapele. Scraped of easily - no big deal. Unfinished pics. Finishes pics - 7 coats on minwax clear gloss poly.
  16. 13 points
    Tapatalk is back! A few weeks back I started a new table. It is the same design as Marcs (from Youtube). This table will be just under 8' so I had to modify all the part sizes. Basically the same design though. I will try to give a quick run down on where I'm at with this thing. I started it in January. Feels like ages ago lol. Milled the stock for the legs Glued up the legs and squared them up on the shooting board Made the feet and the top supports Cut the mortises Made the tenons Cleaned up all the parts before glue up Glue up Next step was the stretcher . I cut the cheeks on the bandsaw These are huge tenons so I cut the shoulder el hando. Scribed the shoulder lines with marking knife then chiseled back to the line for saw registration. Sawed away Decent fit. I'll post the rest tomorrow. This took forever lol. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  17. 13 points
    Hello everyone! First time poster, long time lurker. I primarily hang out on Instagram but favor the old school forums too from time to time. Here’s a rocker I just completed using Scott Morrison’s plans. Scott, primarily known for his Maloof inspired rocker, also has plans for this guy. My goal is to eventually build a Maloof rocker but wanted to first gain some confidence by completing this. I will speak very highly of his plans and will eventually get around to posting a testimonial on his site. Back to the rocker. I decided to go with Cherry with this build due to a great price I found on the 8/4 stock. Of course after buying I realized there was a little more sap wood than I could see with the naked eye. I purchased 55 bd. ft. and after cutting and planing around sap wood I have approximately 10 foot left. For finish I decided to go with the Maloof finish, both the poly/oil and the oil/wax. Following exactly as directed, the finish came out fantastic. The hardest part was sanding up to 400. While constructing this project I completed many first, including power carving and bent lamination. It was a great project to test out my new 3hp 15” Jet bandsaw. Of course having my Festool RO125 made things a breeze too. Thanks for viewing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 13 points
    I won't say much other than I was making this off and on during my Morris Chair build. I obviously finished this before the chairs. Top Layout Top glueup prep. Top in clamps. The top is 68" x 22", I was a bit over on the 22" and trimmed back. These 68" boards were jointed perfectly man i love having a good jointer. Shelves glued up. Started surface finishing. Cut in half because i figured it'd be easier. Start to finish with the #4. I was so happy with the results i didn't bother sanding. There were 1 or 2 plane tracks but i left em as proof that it's handmade. I did take pictures of the base parts but basically i cut 2" square legs and tapered 2 sides by 1/2". The finished dimensions were 23.5" (floor to top) 22" deep. 63" long. Topless picture Top is attached with figure 8s to the legs. despite the span being nearly 55" i could stand on the center with minimal flex. If i get an set up and running picture I'll share that as well.
  19. 12 points
    I don't want to put people to sleep with an endless tour but, here's a few shots of the shop. This is a commercial cabinet that I'm sure I posted about retrofitting to make it more usable for me. The full depth pullouts keep me from losing stuff in this 24" deep beast. Here's a shot of the main work area. Several machines are mobile and move into this space as needed and move back out when assembly or finishing begin. Here's a shot back toward the position that the previous shot was taken from. The wall mounted tool cabinet is actually the right wing of my plane till/tool cabinet but, I never seem to get annoyed enough to re-work the opposite wall to make it fit where it was intended to go which is over on that wall. From the front left you can see my router table and tablesaw area. This was sized to allow me to work with a 60" sq. sheet of BB ply. The garage door opens for longer infeed on those rare occasions it is required. Looking over the tablesaw from the operator's position you see the workbench. Currently has some items on it (that seem to have been there forever) which are over my lift-limit for a few more months. I have (probably too many) more pics if there is anything that anyone is curious about. It is a two car garage with an additional 10 feet of depth where a fourth bedroom option was not taken on the house by the original owners; I thank them every time I am in the shop.
  20. 12 points
    Bench number 1 Some time ago I bought 5 or 6 sticks of kiln dried Maple. Just random sticks, at a glance they were knot free, so I didn't investigate any more than just the glance. When I got them home and began stacking and stickering I found one of the boards was full of powder post beetle holes. I called the guy and he said that I should toss it and next time I get wood, he'd replace it. I asked if he wanted to see it. He said no, just tell him what size it was. It was 4/4 x 11" wide and 8' long. He did replace it some time ago, but for some reason I stuck it up on the rack out of the way. About a month ago, I was digging around and re-found this stick. I was actually cleaning and doing some reorganizing when I found it. I thought , why not try something for the outside at the house or shop, pretty wouldn't be important, but function would. So I opted for a small bench. And, I thought I'd put it on our covered front porch, where it now sits. It wasn't done especially well, mainly because it will probably be destroyed in a couple of years from people, dogs and weather. The plastic chairs will surely outlast it. I used hand cut dovetails as the primary joinery. I haven't done any dovetails in a very long time. I had a Leigh jig but sold it because reading the damn manual took more time than cutting bad joints by hand. And as I said, pretty wasn't the priority. Here's how it turned out. Bench number 2 is slightly different..... This bench is made from figured Cherry and from a different wood supplier. This bench is 42" wide x 18" tall and 14" deep it was made out of one board of 7/4 Cherry. This bench is going at the foot of a bed, as a place to remove shoes and socks or whatever.. The request was for a trestle design, and from a rough sketch it was approved. You all have seen trestle designed tables so there's no reason to add any more info about that. The finish is two coats of Danish oil a week apart. the bench has 3 coats of poly on the underside and the actual seat has 5 coats of satin poly. There are fixed walnut wedges and all that's left is to show it in it's natural state. They were both fun and they both do what they were designed to do. Any comments that are mean spirited will receive a Voodoo spell cast on them.....
  21. 11 points
    I use a Rubbermaid cart to move my parts around the shop. I decided it would be nice and also convenient to have a permanent first layer of stickes on the cart. No earth shattering high end wood working here, I just took an old piece of ply, dado some slots in it and glued in some strips and then screwed that to the top of the cart.
  22. 11 points
    Just finished full size drawings of 2- 4' wide x 10' tall bookcases to go on either side of a 7' wide Fireplace wall. Arches will be flanked with triangles with a recessed flat panel and crown across the top. We drew the arches with concentric lines to indicate the moldings. Then I stated playing with how to make the extremely long mitered joints above the top of the arch. We measured every 4" to 6" across and down to each curve to get them symmetrical . Roughly cut on the bandsaw then sanded to the line on my big belt sander. It's going to be 9 ft in the air and under at least 4 coats of waterbourne pre cat tinted to a semi dark grey the decorator chose. After the first coat of primer it will be easy to fill or caulk any tiny gaps. This whole job is getting a furniture grade satin paint finish. The client was impressed to see a 4ft wide x 9 1/2 ft tall drawing of one bookcase and a 7 ft wide x 10 ft tall drawing of the fireplace Mantle & the arched top which will frame a big flatscreen TV. I will take pictures along the way but posting may be erratic. I can get so focused on a big job I'm exhausted in the evening.
  23. 11 points
    Well here is the fix. It was a lot smaller sliver then one would think and the fact that it was end grain made it a challenge to handle and it snapped while I was fitting it. I took a beater chisel and dulled up the business end some and used it to push the remaining sliver in and then used a chisel to flush it up with the rest of the rail. Because it snapped while I was fitting it there is no glue but I didn't want to pry it out and start over. But I think it is a compression fit of sorts and once the finish goes on I think it will be fine... I hope.
  24. 11 points
    Yes I am building a bench and yes it is going to be out of pine You will say it won't last and your right .I just turned seventy and I'm not going to last much longer so I think the bench will out last me. I have another bench also in my shop that I will beat on this will be used mostly for hand work .I have looked at a lot of builds and took idea's from some and have incorporated some of my own no plans just flying by the seat of my pants .Its been fun so far I have the top almost ready to install will need some help with that its quite heavy.I have seen some of the benches on here and the workmanship is just outstanding .I don't think I am to that level and will probably never get there .I am open to all critiques .Thanks for looking
  25. 11 points
    We have had this corner in the shop/laundry area in our Not A Garage Anymore part of the house that constantly collects stuff you don't know where to put such as containers of rags and drop cloths, containers holding bike helmets and other items that go with you on bike rides. A chest of drawers that had spare parts for the DC and mostly just a place to catch junk. Also there is a hamper from the 70's that has served us well but need to move on. And on the floor was a random selection of household cleaners and a big oak block that I use as a door stop. So this is what I started with - So I wanted to build a storage unit to replace all of this. This turned out to be almost 99.9 percent Baltic Birch Ply. It was two sheets of 3/4 for the case, drawer fronts and web frames, two sheets of 1/2 for drawer boxes and two sheets of 1/4 for drawer bottoms and case back. A real good track saw project. A pretty simple project and not really journal worthy but for my own personal education I decided to try some things I had never done before. I was planning on running down to the hardware store and spending a small fortune on mechanical drawer slides but instead I thought it would be good time to try my hand at dovetail slides, turns out its a pretty easy process but something I had never done. Here are the two parts in their final places Made from some poplar I had on hand- Male portion mounted in the web frame and finger in the picture And the female part mounted on the bottom of the drawer. After the finish was applied and some wax to the glides and edges of the web frame I am really pleased with how they slide. The other thing I did was instead of some real basic down and dirty drawer construction, I had recently seen a different joint used on a drawer and and thought it would be fun to try. When I first saw it I was really kind of flummoxed at how to go about cutting it. But after a little research and a couple of trys it is really pretty easy. In the whole process of cutting the two parts you never have to move the fence on your table saw and only on blade adjustment. In Tage Frid's book it is called a Half Blind Tongue and Rabbet. One cool feature of the joint is when you glue and assemble it, it is naturally end up at 90 degrees. I checked every corner as I went but they were all dead on. Heres a close up - And here is the corner of the shop all cleaned up and organized... Threw a lot of stuff away in the process which was a benefit in itself. So there are 10 drawers and on the lower left is a hamper and the upper left is a pull out shelf for the household cleaner stash. These two are on mechanical slides. The hamper is made out of scraps and a couple of panels for florescent overhead lights. It cabinet is 48 inches wide and 46 inches high 18 inches deep, mounted on casters because the dryer vent is behind it and if I have to get to that it will be a lot easier to move also there is two adjustable feet in the center between the casters for extra support. Oh and for you that care, all 48 screws for the drawer handles are clocked even though you can't see them. Not fine woodworking project worth of praise but it was fun and I was in the shop.