tirebob

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About tirebob

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  • Woodworking Interests
    handtools, furniture, turning...
  1. You do not need a micro bevel. Some guys prefer one but I find it faster and easier these days just to work with a single bevel. In the end, both are simply edges and the wood won't know the difference. It just depends on your own sharpening preferences...
  2. Can... Worms... Opened... I really like David Charlesworth as well, but you just know where this is one is going to go... Where is my popcorn? Actually, I think this is probably one of the few forums these days where things seem pretty relaxed so maybe I will hold off on the popcorn... lol
  3. I have a fair amount of smoothing planes, as well as a ton of others. LN #3, Vintage Stanley #4, Vintage Stanley #4.5 as well as a Veritas BU Smoother (not the smaller one). I must say that the BU smoother is buy far my favourite plane period! That sucker has never let me down and it is soooooo easy to set up and use it is ridiculous. It easily tames even the most gnarly grained woods... A nice feature for me too is that I also have the Veritas LA Jack and LA Jointer, and as these three planes all use the same blade, I just keep them all sharpened at different angles (25, 38 and 50 degrees) and just swithch them between the various planes as needed. Very convenient!!! As for the complaint of the lack of adjustability on the fly compared to Baily styled planes, it has never created even a remote issue for me. It takes me maybe an extra 1 or 2 seconds to adjust on the fly and that by no means interferes with my work. That isn't any sort of knock on Baily style planes as they obviously do great work as well, but really, for me I find the BUS so much simpler and easier to use. Don't hesitate to try and buy one of these for sure!
  4. I love my MKII jig, but as CS said, it isn't really imporatant which system you use, but that you learn one system and learn it well and stick with it. Jumping around means you don't end up learning one system well enough to get consistent results.
  5. A new sharp saw is always harder to start but with practice it will eventually click and become second nature. I tend to use my thumb as a guide for the saw when starting so it stays in the line. I start the saw with no pressure and then gently nibble at the corner until it cuts and then just keep going. Really it is more af a feel thing and it seems tough at first but once you figure it out, it is a piece of cake...
  6. Maybe your flattening surface is the problem. Glass is flat, but it is also flexible, and if the surface under your glass is not flat, under the pressure of trying to flatten your stone it could be causing the glass to bow and not be flat... I use a DMT diamond plate to flatten my stones, and my Norton combo stone has never been an issue. Never has taken more than 20/30 seconds to bring it back to dead flat at the worst of times...
  7. I am not an oil stone user myself, but my understanding is that really any light oil will do the job. I know my buddy who loves oilstones just uses 3in1 oil... Not sure about sandpaper though. I never touch the stuff!
  8. I have a power tool oriented woodbench that was already built into my shop when I bought my house. It was almost 40" high 36" deep and that was way to tall for hand planing, but I liked it for dovetailing. I ended up cutting it down to 36" high and it helped with planing but I still find it somewhat too high. I think that is because I am 6'1" with shorter legs (31" inseam) and a long torso so I am still fairly close to the ground for a taller"ish" guy. I am currently in the middle of building a new bench and I think I am going to go down to 32"/33" tall with it too try and make handplanning more comfortable and use a bench on bench type system for dovetailing. I am building only 24" of depth. That should be plenty for most pieces, and I still have the 36" deep bench for assembly if I ever find myself making something big enough to require the extra size...
  9. I just keep my sharpening kit in a small rubbermaid and steal the wifes kitchen counter at sharpening time. Edge tune-ups are done with a strop while working.
  10. As pointed out, it all depends on your type of work. For backsaws I have 4 Bad Axe saws to cover all my bases at the moment. I have a 10" rip DT saw for 1/2" "ish" thick DT's, a 12" rip DT/Small Tenon saw I prefer for DT's in a little bit thicker material, a 14" dedicated x-cut, and a 16" filed hybrid. These saws are awesome, but no doubt spendy... Now the LV saws are what I used before buying Bad Axe and they work very well and are also well priced, especially compared to anything else on the market at that caliber. If you pay attention to the multitude of forums out there, you may have seen that Rob Lee of LV announce they will be releasing a larger tenon saw in the relative near future, so that may be something you want to consider if you think the other LV offerings are a little too small for the work you do... Here is a pic of the prototypes...
  11. G S - I have to admit that the very first thing that put me off was the feel of the handle and from there on I was probably looking for things to dislike, but there were other things too. I didn't like the hang of the saw at all. It felt really out of balance. The cut was alright I guess but it was a bit ragged compared to every other saw. Now I am only comparing the dovetail saws and can't say anything about the other styles, but overall they are not near as good as the competition...
  12. I have used the Veritas, LN, Pax, and Bad Axe saws, as well as some well shapened vintage ones. Disregarding money, the Bad Axe saws are by far the very best I have ever used and I now own four of them. Bang for your buck though, you will be hard pressed to beat the quality for dollar value of the Veritas saws... They cut extremely well and are very well priced compared to anything else at that level. It is what I learned to cut DT's with. I would still be using them today if I hadn't gotten a bit of extra money and popped on the Bad Axe ones. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=64007&cat=1,42884,68511&ap=1 You have to really pony up a fair bit more money to get only a bit better in something like the LN saws. I personally don't like the progressive pitch and find that you end up sawing with only 2/3's of the saw because the teeth towards the back are extremely course. That said, it is a nice, well built saw. I just find the Veritas to be much better value for virtually the same level of performance. As for the Pax saws, I really dislike the feel in hand and I I was less than impressed. I would buy the Veritas long before a Pax. Lastly, a well sharpened vintage saw will work as well as anything, but you would be better off buying one already tuned up by a reputable saw restorer if you don't want to take on a project and risk spending money on a saw that has issues you were not aware of...
  13. Everything I hear about tablesawtom is 100% fantastic. I haven't tried his services myself, but I have yet to hear anyone report anything but praise!
  14. I haven't ventured into wooden bench planes yet... It is something I am going to have to try!