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About arcwick08

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Functional Furniture.
  1. Very cool video!!! Might be a great way to 'pressure treat' a deck or something without the chemically treated stuff. I wonder if it goes all the way through those? A few seconds per L/inch can't be enough to heat the heat the wood all the way through? I wonder if cooking the wood in an oven, submerged in some inert liquid would work? Might be a great way to set the oven/house on fire...
  2. I think I found a winner, or at least, something that makes things slightly easier; gorilla 'wood glue'. Seems to have a longer open time than tb2/3 and is a little less viscous so it spreads nice and thin very easily... I'll report back after I've turned something, hopefully nothing explodes off the lathe!
  3. Grab one of the ~$100 contractor saws from Lowes or Depot.
  4. The blue and orange box stores stock two products; Rustolium 10x and Olympic Restore. I've used both on stairs before. They are a heavy-duty latex paint with fine silica dust mixed in. The stuff goes on almost like mastic or thin-set mortar. Once cured its extremely grippy and non-slip, even when wet. $25-$30 a gallon if memory serves....tintable too...
  5. I'm certainly no chemist, but... I've got to imagine something like a good quality polyurethane (or poly-acrylic, for that matter), once cured, is pretty inert in terms of what it would react with. You could do a thinned batch and almost soak the mug in it, let it really permeate the fibers, then dry it out for a month, or maybe even heat (gently) it to force the solvent offgas. Your solvent here would be Alcohol, so you could probably conduct a pretty reasonable experiment by coating/soaking a short scrap, letting it dry, then soaking it in denatured alcohol to see if the cured uretha
  6. I was going through back issues of FWW and came across reference to heat-treating lumber to change its color all the way through. It seems like a very cool technique to get some more color variety, specifically out of maple... I've googled and searched but can't find any real reference on how to do this at home. Can it be done? The temps that FWW mentions, about 200C, can be achieved in a home oven, so could you just bake the wood? I'm looking for anybody with first-hand experience on this, before I go and set fire to some blanks in my wife's oven :-/ ac
  7. Believe it or not, I actually did search before creating this thread, and read the one you linked! (which had great information). I posted it here (turners cave) because of the specific stresses a turned piece undergoes. I've not heard of UR/UF glues being used for turnings... I worry about them on the lathe due to their slightly more brittle nature. The same things that prevent creep might make for a shock-break on the lathe (a la using CA for laminations). Do you think that'd be an issue? I've got a big honkin respirator and have already had cancer once, so the health concerns of the dange
  8. Yes, it would do that with some extension. You need some sort of balance device to prevent the whip on something that thin though...
  9. Youtube, baby! A search for "basic wood turning" or "wood lathe basics" will turn up a number of videos on the subject. Watch a bunch, sum and average their advice, and you'll have a good place to start from. If you've got a Woodcraft store near you, they can sometimes be a good place to start as well. I got started turning years ago by talking to a store employee who was an accomplished turner at my local woodcraft.
  10. They're decent for what they are; small budget lathes. The big limit is going to be the size of the motor, so success will be a function of the size of object you're wanting to turn. Pens or small spindles they'll turn all day long. Small bowls (I'd say 5" Diameter and under) it will do reasonably well with. They are sold new by Penn State Industries, if you want to see some specs on the current models...
  11. Hey team! I do a lot of small laminated turnings. Thing in the 4"x4"x3" realm, made out of 8-12 layers of various exotic woods. My process is usually to glue these all up with tb2 or 3 depending on what I have in stock. I've always had great success with this bond; it never fails on the lathe, etc. The problem is, it's messy and very time consuming. Plus in the North Carolina summer here, even TB3 starts to set up before I've got the whole blasted thing in the clamps. The result is a 10-15 minute stress fest where I, my workbench, my clamps, the dog, all get covered in glue. There mus
  12. I'm late to the party, but ditto everything everybody has said already. Both have their place. I have several HSS tools, and once you get the hang of sharpening, they are irreplaceable. That being said, I have a large carbide tool that I use for cutting into rock-hard-dry blanks, non-wood materials, and generally anything else ill-advisable that I chuck up in the lathe. They will cut basically anything using almost any technique and thus are good for starting turners, though as noted, you won't learn correct technique. I found a wet sharpener to be a huge boon to getting good edges on my
  13. I've got a model of similar size, stroke and HP. My advice would be to save up and get one of the larger bench top models. I have an awful time drilling with forstners or circle cutters, not enough power :-(
  14. Very well, thanks a ton for the info!
  15. Any experience with the link style belts?