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About kep1019

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    NW suburbs Chicago
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture builiding, turning
  1. If you see that table in the background it is bent from one solid slab. She does amazing work.
  2. Not sure where you are in WI but I have this 6" jointer for sale in the market place and it works good and less than what you are looking to spend.
  3. I have the 22116 and love it. I looked at the Jet you mention and a lot of others when I bought mine with sears discounts and rebates it was right around 600 down from the 900 list price. That was the deciding factor for me. alignment and set up was extremely easy compared to the Delta contractor saw I replaced. saw is srong and smooth running. I never used magnetic fixtures so the granite didnt matter to me but I love it over the old cast iron no worries on rust provides a dead flat surface. as long as you dont hammer on it it should be ok. I should add I was extremely nervous buying t
  4. Sorry for the confusion not sure what I was thinking when I typed that.
  5. I'm selling a used 6" Jointer Shop line by Jet. Lathe works fine I just dont use it anymore and am trying to free up some space. Asking $150.00 and item will need to me picked up locally in the NW Chicago suburbs. Please PM me for more information or interest.
  6. I look forward to following this. It is something I have wanted to do, really interested in seeing how you do the mast.
  7. Great thread keep it up rob. Are you planning on steam bending the lower arches that would work well and be much faster than all those laminations?
  8. I'll throw a wrench in this, I have one from harbor frieght and have been pleased with it. I bought mine for building a arts and crafts loft bed with at least 100 mortises. Have used it for a few projects after that. If I was going to use it everyday I would definitely look at the higher end ones with substantial work piece clamping, but for my limited hobby use it works just fine. I did need to add a board to the fence but other that that made no major modifications. I have mortised qtr sawn oak, hard maple and cherry with it.
  9. The GF dye stain is a waterbased premixed dye. Watco has tinted oil but nothing that I'm aware of that would be as dark as it sounds like you want to go.
  10. I would go with general finish dye stain it is water based and easy to apply if you want dark. let it dry at least 48 hours and either apply GF Water based poly or an oil based poly for a table. let dry a couple days rub out with steel wool either real or synthetic pad with wax to the sheen you want.
  11. You should post that picture here so everyone gets a look at it.
  12. Not sure about the best but Berlands in Lombard used to have an area of the store dedicated to router bits.........Rockler and Woodcraft have good selections, Rockler is primarily their branded ones. The biggest selection woudl probably be online like eagle america MLCS and such sites.
  13. sounds like a lot of fun sent you an email for my spot.
  14. For a few thousandths you could use sandpaper on a square block to clean up the cheeks of the tenon or the shoulder. For tighter fit when the joint is put together you can run a backsaw in the gap and kerf the joint together is the gap is more than a few thousandths. But if you are measuring in thousandths a quick couple passes with a sanding block should do it.
  15. This isnt expert advice I'm trying to give just what I have seen in my situation. The wood is going to move that is a given, now as far as allowing for it in the joinery, for me it really depends on the joint and width or the boards. For example a mortise and tenon can be left a little loose in the winter and tight in the summer. dovetails I do tight all the time but for drawer sides I dont size them from the top to the bottom of the opening so they are free to move and most of the time all parts from the same board and mostly move together. Biggest movement I have seen was on a soft map