G S Haydon

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About G S Haydon

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making things

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  1. I have a plastic handled Irwin 1 1/2", been very pleased with it.
  2. I already gave you some fair praise a few days ago, Derek. I'd not seen the Chest with the finish applied, I like the darker finish. The Jarrah you work with is stunning but the darker stain helps dampen the vibrant grain and accentuates the design, which in this case, I feel is a good thing. On competitions, I would encourage people to enter them. Take Eric for instance, his work would be very comfortable there. It's always good to see and take inspiration from those putting in the hours on their weekends and evenings.
  3. To me, this seems original, clever and well executed. A great piece of functional art.
  4. I had a Narex mortise chisel, 1/2" and it was good. The handle is not great, but considering it's price point I think it's fine. A left field and cheap option could be contractors chisels, such as the Stanley Fat Max. They have thick lands and a metal strike cap. I often use them on restoration work with a claw hammer. Very direct chopping. A decent, vintage, traditional English pattern mortise chisel is excellent. When there's not enough room to use them, a standard bench chisel would be fine. A good rule of thumb is 1/2" and below is best chopped, anything above that is bored and pared.
  5. Damn fine built in unit. As Tom mentioned, you'd earn a good living making work to that standard.
  6. Practical benefit of a Bevel Down is the cap iron (chip breaker). High angles of attack work and can be essential on moulding planes as their design makes fitting of a cap iron impossible. But a cap iron makes for such a versatile tool. Mr Bird is a top class craftsman and I'm sure he's just getting the job done to a high standard with a proven method. However, I'd wager a bog standard Stanley, with a cap iron set properly, would do a job just as well. If you want a smoothing plane that will suit 99% of woodworkers then look no further than a #4, learn to use the cap iron and you're sorted. There are personal preferences and nuances and hairs that can be split on the topic, but I stand by my recommendation as a non BS position.
  7. You have no idea how much I love the term "G", Eric :). I'm the least "G" person I know, which makes it all the sweeter! On the convex Lie-Nielsen have a vid Odate mentions it as a way to support a brittle edge, the drawing in his book is very similar to the method LN shows. It could be said the single or slightly convex bevel is stronger http://www.amgron.clara.net/page74.html and any hand sharpened, single bevel with have some degree of convex shape, it's just a case of not rounding over. Long winded but further reading (if you have nothing better to do) http://www.owdman.co.uk/howto/howto.htm I think all of Sellers' videos show the method. I think Derek Cohen uses it on his mortise chisels. Like anything, you find what works well. If you get clean surfaces, that's all you need to know.
  8. A convex bevel is fine as long as long as it's not a shortcut, or poor method which is often described as rounding over. On thin, Stanley pattern irons or softer chisels, using coarse abrasives it works fine. Justforfun, I think you'd benefit from keeping your collection of planes small for now, and investing into a Charlesworth/Sellers DVD and get used to them. You can watch both of their approaches on YouTube, see which one you're drawn to most.
  9. Insanely strong design, great job!
  10. G S Haydon

    What Saw?

    One of the guys at work has the Veritas dovetail saw, It looks much better in the flesh, cuts really well to. If I were on a budget and wanted a western saw for dovetails, I would not hesitate in buying the Veritas.
  11. Could try making a square. Great way to use up some scraps. I had some nice figured q/s beech that made a nice set of three try squares.
  12. Hi Chet, not far. Glad to be posting again.
  13. A #4 or #5 is a great all rounder. Stanley are great, there are plenty of blog posts and videos out there you can watch these days. I'd steer you to Paul Sellers stuff as you've headed in the direction of vintage tools. He has a video taking quite a poor #4 into a nice tool.
  14. Many surfaces such as wooden drainers or scrub top tables have no finish applied. If it were mine I'd clean them with a rinse and a scrub with detergent when required. The replace when they'd become too far gone. As mentioned I would deem them as disposable