G S Haydon

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Everything posted by G S Haydon

  1. Decided to try a new style of mallet. Thought I'd hate it but really like it for detail work. I think it's ebony with a satinwood handle. Came up in a seconds sale.
  2. Making a bench like this is not fine furniture. It's practical carpentry skills that result in a bench you can build fine furniture on. I actually think building a bench that's shown in the video is unrealistic unless you want to watch an experienced and skilled worker using limited tools. I saw I guy on YT post a bench build and it was much more practical. Once you have something like Rex has built you'll have learned a lot quickly and perhaps make another bench sometime in the future.
  3. None of them are worth preserving. As long as you are having fun, just put in as much effort as you see fit. With a view to make them usable, just get them clean so rust and dirt does not transfer to your work. You may also find the standard irons are just fine, especially if you plan to use normal timber. If you add up your time spent restoring them, along with the sundries required it may be more logical to buy new. However I find bringing life back to an old tool an enjoyable distraction. This recent saw cost me £1 and took one hour to sort out.
  4. 6, 12, 25. Don't sweat mertic or imperial. Let's open a can of worms. What brand are you going for?
  5. Grab it. $10! The reviews seem decent too. Practice plenty. One reviewer mentioned of a grit range between 3k and 5k. This will be more than adequate.
  6. With the price of old router planes being so high I would look into a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. Things have changed over the years, vintage smoothing planes and jack planes are still dirt cheap. More specialist tools like routers were never made in the same volume.
  7. I don"t think there's a bad place. Try sharpeningsupplies.com
  8. King are a good run of the mill brand, not expensive. If you want to do that a 1000/6000 combo stone would work well and cheap. Lot's are listed as knife sharpening stones but as long as they are an 8 x 2 or 8 x 3 (ish) you'll be fine.
  9. Tomy, keep it simple. If I had to buy new I would only buy a soft Arkansas from Dan's Whetstones. An 8 x 2 is perfect for freehand, 8 x 3 if you need to use a honing guide. If you need a honing guide go for a cheap side clamping style. They are often called Eclipse style, named after the maker. Practice with that system, it's more than enough for woodworking.
  10. Nice info on the heat treating. I've never tried to do it. One of these days I will!
  11. You're a gent Gary. It's a project I'd like to do. I have some nice old irons that need a home.
  12. Gary, that is very tidy work. Using your method is very useful in a powertool setting. How are they to use? I'd imagine very nicely? I've not needed to make any before. If I did I would like to try the style shown by Roubo. They look more approachable from a hand tool project perspective. The attached is a great guide to making them. Almost as detailed as yours! ☺ RouboH&Rs.pdf
  13. Oil based Hardwax Oil finishes are great.(there are water based Hardwax Oils) Very forgiving to use and give great results. You can apply many very thin coats and once fully cured buff it with some copier paper for a great feel. I don't like the coloured oils. I get the colour right with an oil based dye first, let it fully dry and then apply Hardwax Oil. https://www.gshaydon.co.uk/interiors/libraries
  14. We have some solid oak doors in that style being made in our shop at the moment. I like the design and they are hung correctly! As mentioned before, ssnding could be required but with extreme caution. Also, your abrasive is going to clog like crazy. I would also look to use OSMO Poly X oil.
  15. Derek, it's stunning. I really enjoyed the video you made on the drawer joinery. I caught up with it a week ago. It showed me the value of a fishtail chisel. I might fashion one from old chisels I've got hanging about.
  16. Welcome Gary. I've made a return after a big break so I feel pretty new too. Thanks for sharing your router plan.
  17. Hammer5573 You're in danger of getting to much advice. Fine Woodworking have done reviews on dovetail saws and the Cosman range of saws and said they are great. If you can get to a show, tool meet or club to try some out, that would be helpful. Any of the saws you are thinking about using will have good resale value if you don't like them
  18. Thanks for the feedback chaps. I have a few others that need attention when the time comes.
  19. I had a lovely I.SORBY chisel that was overdue a new handle. So I took a scrap of beech and went to work. As I don't turn I made an octagonal handle. Athough this chisel is not really old, there was a time when chisels would be purchased without handles. Craftsman would then make a handle with octagonal style handles very common. It's quite an easy job. I attached an oversized blank to the tang by pilot drilling holes in stages to suit the size of the tang. I then cut it to size, planed, rasped and filed as required with a coat of wax to finish. It was a quick and satisfying job.
  20. I'm good thanks chaps. Hope you're all well? I had a heath issue to get on top of, thankfully I have. Hopefuly I can keep checking in a be part of the community.
  21. The Lie-Nielsen has become an excellent value saw. If it fits your budget, I fail to see how you'll go wrong. If you're on a tight budget a gents saw is very effective.
  22. I have a plastic handled Irwin 1 1/2", been very pleased with it.
  23. I already gave you some fair praise a few days ago, Derek. I'd not seen the Chest with the finish applied, I like the darker finish. The Jarrah you work with is stunning but the darker stain helps dampen the vibrant grain and accentuates the design, which in this case, I feel is a good thing. On competitions, I would encourage people to enter them. Take Eric for instance, his work would be very comfortable there. It's always good to see and take inspiration from those putting in the hours on their weekends and evenings.
  24. To me, this seems original, clever and well executed. A great piece of functional art.
  25. I had a Narex mortise chisel, 1/2" and it was good. The handle is not great, but considering it's price point I think it's fine. A left field and cheap option could be contractors chisels, such as the Stanley Fat Max. They have thick lands and a metal strike cap. I often use them on restoration work with a claw hammer. Very direct chopping. A decent, vintage, traditional English pattern mortise chisel is excellent. When there's not enough room to use them, a standard bench chisel would be fine. A good rule of thumb is 1/2" and below is best chopped, anything above that is bored and pared.