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  1. Great call Ross. I love private investigations. I saw MK solo in Boston a couple years ago. Very underrated guitarist. He's seldom mentioned up there with the greats but he can play.
  2. Hotel California is among my least favorite classic rock songs, by the Eagles or otherwise. It's like nails on a chalkboard to me, or like hearing someone build a Roubo from alder. Love all the other tracks you named though.
  3. That's a wrong opinion. legs looking great Ross!
  4. If it were me building this piece, I would probably just make the top overhang all the sides like a traditional table, then attach it to the base using screws in oversized holes to allow for movement. But if you wanted to stay with the same basic design, you would probably use a frame and panel approach and make the periodic table panel float freely in a frame, so that it can expand and contract within the frame. The mahogany looks pretty straight grained, it's certainly possible that in your environment you won't have an issue. Just keep it in mind in future builds that wood is always going to move, even in a stable environment, and you should account for that in your designs. Like I said though, very cool piece.
  5. (That being said, I did say that if my bandsaw were right upstairs like Eric's was I may use it just to avoid getting out the TS and dirtying the work area).
  6. Same here - exactly the method I recommended to Eric (and if it's a curved scribe, out comes the carvex...)
  7. I think you've got it backwards . Staining is much more difficult than applying a finish coat, pretty much regardless of what the topcoat is, IMO. Re: expansion - what I was getting at is how did you insure the expansion of the top won't bust apart the legs? I may be missing something.
  8. First off, that's a truly awesome piece. The nerd in me is very pleased And I can think of a few science teacher buddies who would kill for that table. Question though - how did you address expansion for that top? Is it shop sawn veneer or something? On finishing: I agree with Ace. I would use oil and a glass top. But if glass top won't fit the aesthetic of the room, then I'd spray lacquer or waterborne poly. But glass has the added benefit that nobody will ever chip those intricate carvings.
  9. Unless I missed a post somewhere, I'm not sure anyone got called out for having an opinion. Looks like some opinions were challenged and rebutted, which most grown ups can handle. Seems like Marc may have taken issue with the back and forth being over the top? Truthfully I feel like I must have missed a deleted post somewhere, because this seems like the tamest thread to have ever received a warning since I've been at WTO. Agree on the family photo though. Very nice pic.
  10. Yes, just busting balls. (Still, the jointer was a bit much )
  11. @shaneymack: true story, @Eric. let me know yesterday that he had to scribe a window sill to fit an out of square opening, so he took it to his bandsaw and then jointed the cut edge. As my father in law said to me when I was shimming a piece of subfloor because it was out of level by 1/8" over 8': "Brian you're not hand cutting dovetails. You're laying subfloor. Nail it off and go get the next sheet so we can eat lunch sometime today."
  12. Most of the time that's true, but if you can product a paper trail where you've alerted your neighbor to the problem and potential damage and they've refused to deal with it, you can often make headway with a claim, at least around here.
  13. Agree with E. 40x80 dining table top at 4/4 is 22bf. So 6/4 is an additional 11bf. You're talking about an additional 50-60 bucks for most hardwoods, and even walnut or mahogany would be an extra hundred bucks. Not exactly breaking the bank on such a large build, and like E said you get a better quality end product and an easier build.
  14. I have the plans for that build. I downloaded them when I was building my own trestle table back when I was a newb like yourself IMO, the plans are way way way over complicated and require a ton of extra work to compensate for the plywood top when all you'd have to do if you used solid wood is glue up a panel (and do breadboards if you want). They also use joinery shortcuts that lead to an inferior product, IMO. Nonetheless, I consulted with the plans for ideas as I was developing my own design. Again I'll put a plug in for giving the shaker table a shot. It's a much smaller scale project which will be easier on your benchtop jointer and again build the skills you'll need down the road. But I'm going to do everything short of beg you not to use a plywood top if you decide to build this dining table Here's a pic of the finished product of my trestle table. The gloss finish is horrific. The proportions are off and the trestle ends are clunky. But the joinery is perfect: standard M&T for the trestle ends and wedged through M&T for the trestle rail. And it was my first try at designing something on my own and only my third or fourth project as a woodworker, and it was for my parents who don't know any better and love it, so I'm happy with it. I'm very happy I went with my own design in solid wood instead of the plywood version, and my grandkids' grandkids will be too when they're still able to use the table.
  15. Thanks! I used a backsaw (LN dovetail saw), which I've grown pretty comfortable with. I previously had a Veritas dovetail saw which I really didn't like. It may be just me because I know others on the forum like it, but I could never get it to cut smoothly, whereas the LN worked right out of the box.