difalkner

Ah, yes, a long way from me. He may be closer to you, actually. David

Photos? Where in LA? I'm in NW LA. David

It just occurred to me as I looked at the photos that I didn't mention, nor does it show, but the figured Walnut border on the lid is angled 7.5°. I cut those strips about 1/16" thick and then had to miter them at the corners. With very thin veneer that's pretty quick and easy but with pieces even 1/16" thick that has to be a compound angle. Came out ok, though. David

A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David

I haven't done hammer veneering in the last 20 years, matter of fact it was probably 30 years ago the last time I did that. Neat process and glad to see how well you made it work out. Excellent job! David

I've been buying from Certainly Wood since they opened but I'm in Louisiana so the only buying I've done is over the phone, mail order (back in the day... ) and now online. I'll have to check out Berkshire Veneer - thanks! David

Very nice work and a worthy project! I've never tried a G&G style but have always liked it, may have to give it a shot on some piece. David

Very, very nice build, Joe! I hope the recipient truly appreciates the work that went into that piece. Where do you source your veneer? David

Is the point of the cleat hitting before the cleat seats? Cut the very end of the cleat off - that's what I do on mine to make sure it seats on the angle and not rests on the bottom of the cleat. David

Look for a local sawmill that might have some Walnut. I buy my unsteamed Walnut from a local (about 45 minute drive) and he cuts to my specs and then dries in a solar kiln. Prices are very good when buying in the rough like this. David

Looks great, Kev! Like everyone else I am space jealous. I think we have more equipment in our two-car garage than you have in that huge shop! One question - is your DC motor going to get enough air for cooling being that close to the ceiling? Ok, second question of, uh, one - how do you empty the can? It looks like there's nothing to move up to get it out. I'm sure that's not the case but it just looks that way in the video. David

Lacquer or Shellac will work. I make plaques out of Walnut for a local trophy shop and finish all of them in Nitrocellulose lacquer. David

Oh, I didn't do the engraving. I do work for a local laser shop, a very busy laser shop, and they did the engraving. I have just been waiting on them to engrave this so I could post an update. We both use CorelDraw and swap files back and forth. They sent me the artwork and I took the outline as an svg out of CorelDraw and brought it into Fusion 360 to do the CAD/CAM portion. David

The laser shop did the engraving on the IG Badge and while I would love to have done it all on the CNC, I think it probably looks better engraved on the laser. What do y'all think? David

I rebuilt both my Delta DJ-15 6" jointer (now sold) and my PM 54A 6" long bed jointer and used the flex belt (or power twist belt, whatever you call them - the red link belts). Both passed the nickel test from start up to final cutterhead rotation. The DJ-15 set on the floor and the PM 54A is on the PM mobile base. If yours passes the nickel test everywhere except out on the ends of the beds then I'd say it's going to be fine. And that's a great looking jointer, btw! I sure wish I had an 8" but 6" is all I could find locally in the used market. David