difalkner

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Everything posted by difalkner

  1. difalkner

    CNC mistake for your entertainment

    Almost two years ago I fired up the CNC for the first time and right away decided to cut a sign with several bit changes, varying depths of cut on the letters, generated in one G-code, and no clue how to make bit changes once it took off. But, it was an inexpensive and soft piece of WRC so I let 'er rip. Well, I completely messed it up and kept the piece as a reminder as to what happens when you get in over your head. The other day I decided I would modify the file because I know a WHOLE lot more about Fusion 360 now and thought I'd see if I could cut the sign properly on the other side of the same board. Here's the one from Dec. 2016 - And the one from this week - I haven't decided whether to paint it, stain it, or just leave it alone. If I hang it on the house it will be out of the weather and away from the sun. You have my permission to laugh at my expense - I did! LOL! David
  2. difalkner

    CNC mistake for your entertainment

    Haha! No problem. I've known some, as well. Good people and we've had some fun conversations. William Faulkner was originally Falkner but when he was 19 he changed it because an editor published some of his work and spelled his name wrong. He didn't want to rock the boat so he just changed it. I don't give in so easily and have been correcting it for 60+ years. I do have a double standard, though. You can write me a check and spell it any way you want. Again, no problem. I just enjoy the grammar part but rarely 'go there'. I participate in about 10 forums and most of what I read is pretty entertaining grammar-wise. David
  3. difalkner

    CNC mistake for your entertainment

    Close. There is no 'u' in Falkner. We spell it correctly. Falkners' isn't correct but Falkner's is for possessive (apostrophe in wrong place in the first example). Now if the last name already ends in an 's', such as Simmons, it would be Simmons' for possessive. For pluralization of Simmons, then you add 'es' to the end - Simmonses. Even though this may look weird, because we're not accustomed to seeing it, that is the correct way of writing a name ending in 's' for pluralization. My goal was to make the sign plural rather than possessive, hence no apostrophe on the second version. While I'm certain there are exceptions the basic rule is no apostrophe for plural and use an apostrophe for possessive. David
  4. difalkner

    CNC mistake for your entertainment

    Haha! On the first version I went with the grammatically incorrect but widely accepted way of doing a sign. When I did it the second time I decided grammar is still king over conventional norm. The apostrophe shows it to be possessive but I wanted plural. One could argue that possessive is correct because this is our house but my intention is the plural - there are two of us, so no apostrophe. I'll make the sign mount such that I can flip it over and have it both ways - David
  5. This is something I came up with a while back and have made a few but I thought I'd post a few photos of this one. It's a marriage, wedding, or anniversary sign (plaque?) in Walnut with a Maple cross. This can be hung on a wall or set on the easel I also designed. It's got one coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and one coat of gloss. Enjoy! David
  6. difalkner

    CNC mistake for your entertainment

    I guess we can say a Woodpecker has been busy with it. David
  7. difalkner

    How do you transport your wood?

    It was a very nice MINI, loved it but having to go 200 miles to Dallas for service got old. This was our second MINI and my guess is we went for service 20 times in about 7 years and I got stranded 3 times in small towns. Our two MINI's had to be taken via flatbed back to the mother ship each of the 3 times I was stranded. Finally had enough and switched to the Tacoma. I still like MINI better, though! And the exotic wood find was/is phenomenal. Brazilian Rosewood, Canary Wood, Jatoba, Purpleheart, Bolivian Rosewood from a shop that was getting out of the business and moving into something else. The man is 80 years old and starting his 4th business, didn't need the money, and had two CNC's costing north of $150k each, 52" wide belt sander, 24" planer, 16" jointer, 5 large dust collectors, all in an old outlet mall he bought. His shop is about 30,000 sq. ft. I would guess and he rents out the rest of the mall. Anyway, I'm rambling and chasing rabbits on someone else's thread... sorry! LOL! David
  8. difalkner

    How do you transport your wood?

    Sometimes you just have to get creative. Here's an exotic lumber haul back when we had a MINI Countryman - But we traded the MINI in on a Tacoma so now we can really haul some lumber! David
  9. difalkner

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    Are they on TV or YouTube? Haven't watched TV in at least 5 years - cancelled our service and I don't keep up with social media. I'm picky about what I watch on YT, too. I watch April Wilkerson and Frank Howarth - enjoy both. David
  10. difalkner

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    We have been using Kaspersky Total Security for 3 years and haven't seen any ads on YT since installing it. Even the unskippable ads don't play - the video just starts as soon as I click on it. I have no idea whether or not April's videos or Frank Howarth's videos have ads. David
  11. difalkner

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    I've been watching her videos almost from the start and thoroughly enjoy them. Her energy and enthusiasm is very good. Yet in all the videos I've seen there hasn't been a single thing I've wanted to replicate, methodology to incorporate into my shop, or project that I was just dying to go build. I admire her drive and dedication whether she's doing 'fine woodworking' or not. If I had her income and the opportunity and space to build a shop that size it would be entirely different in layout and purpose but she's built the shop she wants and I look forward to her future videos and projects. David
  12. difalkner

    Poker chip case

    Very clean and nice work - good job! David
  13. difalkner

    Some stuff I've worked on

    Fantastic work, indeed!! David
  14. difalkner

    Bandsaw question

    I guess I missed this post but I'll chime in on the brake. While this is a 14" saw it's a large 14" saw. Yes, it 'only' has a 14" throat but it's more like an 18" or 20" saw in power and resaw capacity, it just happens to have 14" wheels. That said, I just tested it is 38 seconds before the blade stops moving after hitting the stop button or tripping the microswitch with the foot brake. It only has to be barely moving to give you a good gash if you come into contact with the blade, especially this one - 1" Resaw King carbide. I find the brake to be a very good addition to an already great saw and use it often. It takes a couple of seconds to stop the blade with the brake but that beats 38 seconds. When our grandkids visit and I make them something in the shop I always use the brake. When I'm in the shop by myself I usually finish the cut and walk away. It can safely coast while I'm doing something else. But when I resaw wide boards, which I do often, there's a lot of blade exposed and I usually stop it with the brake and lower the guide back to the table before I walk away. Oh, I also release the tension on the blade when it's not in use. And the ceramic guides are excellent, btw. Well worth the additional cost for that, as well. 'Startled' is close to my reaction in the being stupid video. Mild state of shock may be closer! LOL! David
  15. difalkner

    Window mounted fan for spraying lacquer

    That's not near as efficient at removing the fumes quickly. I understand the principle and reasoning but that would cause the vapors to remain even longer and I think that would be worse. Getting rid of the odor quickly so it doesn't waft into the house where Sandy will have to endure it is paramount for me. And this is not a brush type motor so no sparks. Also, the switch mounted to the motor, where a spark is probably possible, is always on high and I start the fan with a remote operating a solid state relay so no sparks there, either. In addition, the fan is always running before I spray and the tiny bit of a cloud is gone so quickly that I doubt even an open fire would cause a problem. I would love to have a real spray booth with water bath, explosion proof motor, proper lighting, etc. but that's just simply out of the question. This fan works fine and has for almost two years and it's paid for - all plusses in my book. David
  16. This window mounted fan support is a long overdue shop upgrade project. Every time I spray lacquer I had to rig the fan to stay in the window (it fell once and bent the blades). And it didn't work very well, either. As much air came in the window as the fan blew out. Also, every bug that got near the window got sucked in by the vortex on the periphery of the fan. This is much, much better! Enjoy! David
  17. difalkner

    Window mounted fan for spraying lacquer

    This 'little' 20" fan puts out 4650 CFM which is about double what most 20" box fans do, so that's got to help. Got it from Amazon - Firtana 20" fan. I don't know how it compares to the 30" you had, though. David
  18. difalkner

    Window mounted fan for spraying lacquer

    Thanks! Yes sir, when the fan was just sitting in the window it took at least 10 minutes to clear the fog, even with the low overspray of the HVLP gun. Now it's basically pulled out real time while I'm spraying. The longest I recall seeing any sort of a cloud is about 30 seconds and that was only if the light was right to even see it. David
  19. difalkner

    Getting into spraying

    I use an Astro HVLP gun I bought from Amazon, about $100. It is a very good gun and I spray all I want with my little 20 gallon 45 year old Craftsman 2HP compressor. It never fails to keep up but in fairness I rarely spray more than 3-4 minutes at a time. I'm not doing large pieces of furniture, usually just smaller pieces like I show here from time to time - trophies, plaques, coin holders, etc. One thing I noticed right away is the vast difference between conventional and HVLP in the amount of overspray, as has been noted. I'm using half as much Nitrocellulose sealer and lacquer with the HVLP gun and therefore the gun probably paid for itself in a very short period of time. My compressor is in the climate controlled shop so no water trap and no oil issues from the old compressor. I know that's the exception and if my compressor were to be outside all that would change. But even the one time each year when I go to drain the tank my guess is I have less than one ounce of liquid. I've stopped taking it outside to drain it annually choosing instead to just put a cup in front of the drain and catch it while it's still inside the shop. David
  20. difalkner

    Another stripes plaque

    Thanks, Coop! No, I don't advertise these. I do these on custom order from a trophy shop right outside the main gate of Barksdale AFB. They sell all over the world but I don't think they push these. But that's a good idea and I'll ask them next time I go to their shop. David
  21. Had an order for another stripes plaque in Walnut and Maple. This one is an SFC Stripe, about 12" x 18", finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. And for size comparison here it is in front of the guitar I just built - David
  22. difalkner

    Another stripes plaque

    Thanks, Brendon! I wish a dozen orders would come in - these are getting to be fun. David
  23. difalkner

    Laser etched cutting board

    Thanks! Maybe 1/32". It's just enough to be a relief but not so deep as to be a pocket. And I seriously doubt it will ever be used for anything except kitchen art. David
  24. Yes, another cutting board thread... sorry. (mods, if this needs to be moved please do so) This is an all Maple board 12" x 15" x 1 1/4". The top 1/2" is bookmatched with some nice ribbon in a few spots, mostly toward the left side. The reason I'm posting yet another cutting board is that I've never done one like this and that's typically what I post. I don't see any point in showing y'all cutting boards just like the last 10 or 20 I've made so you get to see the new ones and then I won't bother y'all again. Well, unless it's sort of the same with a new and interesting twist. I cut the board, drew the design in CorelDraw X8, and took the CorelDraw artwork to the laser shop I do work for and they cut it for me while I had a cup of coffee and waited the 30 minutes it took to burn the design. This was cut on a 60 watt Epilog and done in one pass. I lightly sanded the whole board with 400 grit when I got back to the shop so the tree and other burn areas would take on a bit more character. Then the standard 2 coats of mineral oil the first day followed by our Beeswax and mineral oil mix the next day. On the bottom are silicone rubber feet attached with stainless steel screws. Anyway, here's the board. David
  25. difalkner

    Calibration question

    My calibration still isn’t as close as I know it can be so I created a file today for some testing and calibration. This is a busy piece but served its purpose. Here’s what I cut with a 1/4" two-flute downcut spiral bit running 18k rpm and 125 ipm. I checked the bit - it is 0.250" on the nose. If I really work at it I can make it be 0.2495" at the very tip of the bit but for all practical purposes, and for this test, it's a 1/4" bit. The depth of cut is 0.1875" and it is cut with one pass leaving 0.005" on the side walls for a final clean up cut to get the fuzz off. The depth needed to be just deep enough to allow my dial calipers in for good measurement. I started on the bottom left, ‘Before’, and made my first cut. You can see it was out +0.005” on Y and -0.010” on X. I changed the settings in Mach4 and then ran the top left. Ignore the diagonals, those are to ensure I didn’t get too close to the screws. The circled dimensions are exactly as they’re supposed to be. I then ran the top right and it’s exact on Y and out +0.005” on X. The middle right was next and you can see it is exact on Y but out -0.002” on X. Bottom right is exact on X and +0.005” on Y (I wrote it wrong on the piece). The circle is very close, as well. However, all of the inside circles and squares are 0.015” to 0.025” undersize and I don’t get that. The outside squares, rectangles, and circles are close enough to be acceptable. I think the variance is due to the material which is a sort of soft Purebond plywood from Home Depot. So how do I get the inside circles to cut accurately? This makes it very difficult when I’m doing inlays and inserts, fitting dowels or bolts in holes, etc. I can’t change settings now or the other measurements will be off and I don’t want that. Is it something not set correctly in Fusion 360? Something in Mach4? It's not mechanical; the machine is very rigid and tight and if it was mechanical the squares, rectangles, and outside circles would be off, as well. I know using hardwood or acrylic would be better but until I get this a lot closer I don't want to waste good materials. Because the X and Y are very close now I need to figure out what's going on with the inside dimensions. I can slow the feed rate but I don't really think that's the issue. And going from conventional to climb (or vice versa) won't amount to the 0.020" and greater errors I'm seeing. And if the X and Y are as close as they are I don't think any error in the R&P factors in on the inside dimensions. I have Forstner bits of the size holes I cut and I can't get those bits into the holes. I can accurately measure the Forstner bits and most are about 0.010" undersize but even at that they won't fit into the holes I'm boring, so that tells me my inside measurements aren't too far off. Thanks! David