difalkner

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Everything posted by difalkner

  1. That only weighs 15 lbs. - wow! Looks much heavier. It's gonna look cool when it's finished. David
  2. I priced a Generac 20kW unit five or six years ago and it was going to be around $7k, turnkey installed. To go larger gets really expensive, not only for the unit but for the installation, as well. My guy said going larger than 20kW means a new and larger gas meter and the lines have to be increased to (I think) 1 1/2" diameter all the way to the Generac. However, in looking at the Generac website, I see a 25kW costs less than a 22kW but I didn't look at the details. There's a decent amount on top of this for transfer switch, electrician, plumbing, installation, etc. Our next-door neighbor had a 20kW Generac and when they moved he took it with him. It was pretty quiet and he offered to let us run an extension cord if ever needed but we never had the need. The ice/snow storm that hit us this week and took power out for 14 hours is the worst we've seen, and while it would be nice to have the Generac I don't think we're going to go that route. David
  3. See if this works - https://www.dropbox.com/s/x734ihrhxfisap9/Fleur de lis - test inlay.mov?dl=0 David
  4. I don't think we can post videos, Coop. Let me see if I can post it to my Dropbox and provide a link. David Edit - what about Facebook, Coop? Do you have that? I don't like it but I post my things and run... https://www.facebook.com/david.falkner.58/videos
  5. It's not a link; we can't put more than one link in our signatures and I used the Etsy link. You have to go to Instagram and my username there is difalkner. Here's the link, though - David Falkner (@difalkner) • Instagram photos and videos David
  6. Fleur de lis cut as a practice piece, Cherry into Walnut. Carveco is what I used to create the toolpath. This is just wiped in Naphtha to see how it will look. There's a one minute video on my Instagram page showing this being cut. David
  7. Another thing I do is to always make certain the seam on the conveyor belt doesn't land on either roller when I turn it off. I figure that's the most stress on that joint even though the pull is the same across the entire range of its travel. Placing the seam on the tight roller to stay overnight or for days just seems like it's inviting a problem down the road. So I turn it off after the seam has passed the roller and it's on the flat. For tension I'd say mine is fairly tight, doesn't sag much at all on the underside. I haven't watched any videos on setting the tension, though. I've replaced one conveyor belt in 4 years, fwiw. David
  8. I might add that a few years ago I opted for the drop-down folding in and out feed support tables. This made all the difference in the world for running longer stock. I raise the folding feed tables every time I use the sander, even if I'm sanding a 10" Longworth chuck. The advantage is that it goes to the outfeed table and stays there rather than falling off the conveyor belt. David
  9. Welcome to the forum, Chad! 1. We've had our 19-38 for about 4 years and the IntelliSense kicks in often when I sand. I also bought the DRO and usually drop it 0.005" each pass. And the IntelliSense, when it engages, does slow the conveyor belt. 2. I never looked because I automatically turn the dial to 100% each time I run the sander (well, maybe 95% of the time). But I just tried it and the belt begins moving at 25%, not much different than yours. Fwiw, when I slow the belt I rarely go below 50% so it not starting until 25% isn't an issue for me. 3. I've sanded boards 8' long and some as short as 6" many times with no issue. I also sand down to about 0.080" for guitar backs/tops/sides and other projects that were very close to the max height the sander can handle. I'm not sure if this helps but ours seems to work just fine. David
  10. Thanks, Coop! It really starts the same way I do inlay with my Dremel or scrollsaw, I just make a sketch. Sometimes it's on paper and sometimes I use CorelDraw. Occasionally I will search for something close to what I want and if I find an image I'll bring it into CorelDraw to modify or just use for a model while I draw from scratch. For this test I drew it from scratch. For images that I'll cut with the scrollsaw or Dremel then I just need a rough sketch but if it's to be cut on the CNC then I have to zoom in very close to every intersection and change in direction to make certain there aren't tiny loops or open sections in the drawing. If it's to be cut on the CNC then I import that image as a dxf or svg into Fusion 360 or Carveco and begin deciding on tools, order of cut, and generating the toolpath. That's the basic premise and my methodology. David
  11. I posted photos of this last year when I did the inlay work and now have a video showing what and how the inlay was accomplished. It's Walnut with African Mahogany and Cherry inlay, French polish finish, and is a test piece for a larger panel I plan to inlay at some point this year. David
  12. Btw, you can go to my Instagram account and see a short video of it in action. David
  13. Thank you! Yes, it's a circuit tester. David
  14. Warning!! This is Geek stuff!! I wasn't exactly sure where to post this but it really applies to any device you might want to remote start. About 3 years ago I bought the three-remote control set from Harbor Freight to activate my dust collector, shop vac, and window fan I use when I spray finishes. I realized the remotes weren’t intended for the current draw of the dust collector but figured I would use it until it burnt up, which I thought would be a couple of weeks. Well, three years later it finally burned up the circuit. So I took the unit apart, repaired the circuit board, and then used an enclosure to house a 30 amp contactor and the remote switch – it works great! And now I needn’t be concerned about the remote not working since the current for switching the coil on the contactor is only about 0.04 amps (4 watts). My only real concern was whether the remote would activate the relay switch since it’s enclosed in the steel enclosure but it seems to work just fine from anywhere in the shop. Before the dust collector really gets going you can hear the contactor close when I press the remote and that’s a good sound! David
  15. Does adding that impeller cause the motor to draw a bit more current? I don't want to be in a situation where I have to run a dedicated 120v 20a circuit for the DC. I'd rather spring for a larger DC and run it on 220v. I think my HF unit is right at the limit of running on the 15a circuit because of the inrush of current. Running amps are about 12, I think, but haven't checked in a while. David
  16. Just now saw this and have sent you a message, Michael. Building your own is definitely a good way to get into CNC if you have the time, patience, and space. If not then just buy one ready to go and start cutting! David
  17. Maybe that's my problem, Drew; I keep tabs open to about 10 forums and refresh frequently during the day. I'm a mod on a woodworking forum, a router forum, and a CNC forum and a regular on others for Luthiers, woodworking, CAD/CAM, etc. Yep, that's probably why I don't get much done! David
  18. Welcome! Glad to have you here, Jon. Jump in whenever you're ready. David
  19. Very nice build and well documented! Those are some very good looking chairs. David
  20. Seems almost criminal to use Cherry for a workbench, besides that it's not very hard (usually). If you're creating a show piece bench then Cherry is fine but if you're going to be pounding and cutting then use the Pine. Poplar or Maple is even better - harder. David
  21. That's really looking nice, Drew! Can't wait to see the final piece. David
  22. Loaded the three shelves, two Hard Rock Maple and one Curly Maple, and headed 10 minutes away to my friend’s cabinet shop. They have a 24” spiral head planer and 36” wide belt sander. It still took an hour to plane and sand these heavy boards but it would have taken days per board in my shop. David
  23. difalkner

    Veneer ID

    I'm starting two new name signs and will use these veneers on the face but these were in a big batch of veneer I've had for about 30 years and I don't remember what they are. Anyone got any clues on these veneer species? I put a little in one spot of Naphtha on each to bring out the figure a little more in case that helps. David
  24. I may make a video of the entire build once this is complete, not sure, video production takes a while. Finally got to a point where I could begin joining the boards for the shelves and started with the Hard Rock Maple. I'll save the much more expensive Curly Maple for the last in case I learn something new when I join these boards. Because these are heavy and the edges so crisp they're sharp I decided to do one joint at a time rather than attempt gluing all three boards at once. That turned out to be a good move because doing just one joint is about all the open time I have for TB I, probably could have switched to TB III to get more open time but didn't want to do that. I used biscuits for making certain everything stays aligned, not for strength, and it worked well for this application. David