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Everything posted by difalkner

  1. Ok, I'm back on the audio rack after installing the Shelix cutterhead in my jointer over the weekend. Today I cleaned up the edges on the three Curly Maple boards, one pass each. Because I bought the cutterhead with bearings installed and 15 extra knives the cost with shipping was $400 and it took about five weeks to arrive (backordered). So that's about $67 per pass but wow do the edges look good! Here are the chipped edges - And the edges I just cut today with the new Shelix cutterhead - David
  2. It is a very significant reduction in dB, far more than I thought it would be. I've only used it about 5 minutes and the only thing I've noticed is that it takes more effort to push a jointer-width board across the cutterhead than with the straight knives. My quick assumption is that's because there's always a cutter in contact with the board. With straight knives there's a small timeframe where there's no contact with the board, albeit a small timeframe. Granted, the effort isn't double, it's just 'more' effort although it still isn't difficult to do a full width board. David
  3. I'm building a Curly Maple and Purpleheart audio rack and the front edge of the Curly Maple needs to be pristine. When I tried to run it across the straight knives of my jointer a while back it did what I expected it to do - it chipped. So I ordered a Shelix cutterhead but they were back ordered and it just came in a few days ago. The install of these is well documented so I won't bother with that except to show a few photos, the most significant being the huge drop in sound level. I wear hearing protection at all times when equipment is running in the shop but it's still cool that the sound dropped this much. The before and after sound tests were on the same piece of Walnut, 6" wide (the capacity of my jointer) and about 11" long, rough side straight off the sawmill for both tests. I took the board from rough to smooth and recorded the highest sound for before and after. David
  4. I did it one joist at a time but only had to span 12', not 25'. But even if you had to make some structural beams you'll still be at a minimal cost and gain a few feet of ceiling height. David
  5. My first shop was a detached 12x20 garage with 7' ceiling, even lower than yours. What I did was to remove the sheetrock ceiling halfway on the 20' dimension leaving the rafters exposed. I then added crossmembers about 9' high to take the span load of the 12' wide building. That gave me a free area for longer pieces and a much better open feeling. The back half of the ceiling was left in place and I added an access door so I could use that new attic space for storage. That was In about 1977 and I pass by there often and it's still standing so I guess it was strong enough. The cost was minimal, as you can imagine; just a little time is all, really. I used the 2x4s that I cut out of the original crossmembers to make the new braces. I just quickly drew this in Fusion 360 but didn't try to make the cross members more than a line but it is to scale, fwiw. David
  6. I've already posted about the plaque I made for my friend but this is the video with every step documented, something I don't do often. I've been asked a hundred times what are all the steps in making something like this plaque so I figured why not show it in a video; there's a lot more to it than many realize, especially if you don't do work like this. Be forewarned, the video is 19 minutes long. Some sections and steps are at real time, some are sped up. There may be steps you'd omit and there may be some you'd do differently but this is what I do when I make something like this. David
  7. Her smile lights the room, for sure! This photo was after she regained her composure and wiped the tears away. She had actually seen the in-progress steps on Instagram and Facebook and said in the back of her mind she hoped this was for her but didn't want to get her hopes up. She was really sweet in accepting it and her parents loved it, too. It's fun to make things for people who appreciate the effort! David
  8. Well, she loved it! She was very excited to get this and I enjoyed making it for her as much as she enjoyed getting it (I think). David
  9. Thanks, Coop! That means a lot coming from you - cool! David
  10. I play guitar for a young lady with an amazing voice and fantastic spirit, just very enjoyable to be around. So I decided to make something for her as a surprise. She's coming over tomorrow night after band and choir practice and you know how it is when you make something for someone - you want to give it to them right away! But I have to wait one more day. One thing I detest is Facebook but I have posted the progress shots on my page and her mom has been following along and commenting, not knowing this is for her daughter. This is a plaque I designed in CorelDraw and exported to Fusion 360 for cutting. I originally tried it as a trivet with the cuts going all the way through but the letters are too delicate and the tips broke off so I changed it to a plaque. I could have changed to a beefier font but I wanted this one. But I didn't want just the plain background so I hand carved that with a scalloped look - that took three hours but I could have done it in two except I kept tweaking the cuts! I think it's worth it, though, and the end result looks really nice to me. The plaque is Cherry, about 10" diameter, 0.60" thick, finished with Nitrocellulose sealer and semi-gloss lacquer, and Mohawk Van Dyke Brown glazing stain is used on the text to make that pop. Oh, by the way, you'll notice I cut the background 'on' the CNC. Carved 'on' the CNC -
  11. Thanks, Coop! There are two countersunk holes on the cross member to which the magnets are mounted. The frame will be screwed directly to the wall, preferably hitting one stud. David
  12. I built two of these for a friend and just finished them today. They're about 10" x 13" x 2" and made of Walnut, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The frame holds an 8x10 photo. David
  13. Thank you! Out of 80+ cutting boards I think this is only the second one I've put a juice groove in, maybe the third. But they wanted it so I cut it for them. David
  14. Thank you! They guy who had it made said it will definitely get used but the newlyweds haven't seen it yet so my guess is that it could end up being a display board only. David
  15. Very beautiful, Mick! Great job on this, as usual. David
  16. I typically don't do 2.5D or 3D work because they take so long on the CNC. For those poker chips you're looking at anywhere from 2 to 6 hours, depending on the size and desired level of detail. In that time I can make 5 times as much with flat stock and be finished with the job and no painting. When you posted those on another forum I suggested a router forum where there are any number of guys who do that kind of work all the time. Did you ever join there and post these; I don't recall seeing them if you did. David
  17. Thanks, Coop! That's what he specified, not sure why. I've seen a few like this but we don't use one so I really don't know. Finished cutting board - David
  18. Three coats of mineral oil with the last being a mineral oil/Beeswax mix. I let that set for about 6 hours and then buff it with paper towels to get the excess Beeswax off. The cutting board is left with a rich luster sheen that is velvety smooth. Working side - Show side - David
  19. We're finally at the point where I'm applying the mineral oil and Beeswax finish. Got the cutting board laser engraved yesterday and have now put three good coats of mineral oil and let that soak in and am now applying a good, heavy coat of Beeswax with mineral oil (my mixture). I'll let the Beeswax set for about 4 hours and then wipe off as much as I can, flip it and do the other side. I'll continue wiping it down until it can go a few hours without seeing any wet spots. This part could take a couple of days. In the Epilog laser right after engraving (you can go to my Instagram and see the engraving in motion) - One coat of mineral oil - Beeswax applied, it's a nice, rich color - David
  20. The cutting board has progressed through the stages but I forgot to post anything about it - oops! I cut the outer perimeter down to 1" on the CNC (I don't have a bit long enough to cut through 2" of material). Then used the bandsaw and tablesaw to cut the excess pieces off. Then I used my router table to flush trim the sides - My drum sander is wide enough to handle this board but the juice groove was causing issues because the pressure rollers tried to dip down when that went through, so I carried the board to my friend's cabinet shop and it took all of about 6 passes to sand this on his wide belt sander - Then I finished sanding with 120/220/400 and will take it to the laser shop for engraving - As you can see, this Hard Rock Maple can get really smooth if you take it down to 400 - David
  21. I use Blaster Dry Lube, Lowe's - works great! David
  22. Medium rare would be my guess; he's a big game hunter. David
  23. That's ok, I like easy questions. Hard ones require greater use of diminishing brain cells! David
  24. Running the cutting board through my 50" planer... David