Torch02

Members
  • Content Count

    155
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Torch02

  1. Torch02

    More Power!

    In the house we are going to be renting in Germany, the garage has a 340V outlet! I knew that Europe runs on 220V/50Hz, but I didn't even know 340V existed. My question - what kind of 340V tools exist? What tools would benefit from 340V vs. 220V?
  2. I'm about to join the ranks of American woodworkers in Germany, someone near Ramstein.
  3. I'm ~75% sure I'm going. I have something for work in October, but they haven't decided on which week in October it is, thus the 75% ;-)
  4. Anyone have recommendations for where to buy knife blades? Bonus points if they sell Damascus steel blades.
  5. Point of order - French toast is actually French. It originated from the fact that French bakeries were closed on Mondays, so you had to buy Monday's bread on Sunday. Dipping it in an egg/milk blend was the way to rejuvenate it/make the staleness palatable.
  6. Even though you don't have everything for your "full" shop (who does?), you should go through an exercise to layout your ideal shop: Figure out where you would put every tool. Figure where workstations/benches will be where you use handheld power tools. Figure out where you want what kind of lighting Put a 220 outlet next to every single major tool, even if you only plan on buying a 110V tool for that location Figure out where you want additional outlets along each wall, then put another one halfway between everywhere you thought you'd need it. Once you have all of these outlets laid out, you can come of with wiring schemes to address all those outlets/lights.
  7. The best advice I've found for starting hand saw cuts is to "try to not cut the wood" as weird as that might sound. When starting either my dovetail or tenon saw, I pitch the saw up so that the spin is almost vertical, use the very back teeth on the plate, and try to saw as close to the wood without actually touching it. Take short strokes to start and increase your use of the saw plate as your kerf gets deeper into the board.
  8. The key is to think backwards. Polish the bottom, remove the burr from the bevel.
  9. That's exactly what our very own Tom Iovino did: http://tomsworkbench.com/2011/01/26/inlay-disaster-averted/
  10. This page has a decent picture of how a ballista works. You could follow that page's amazon link to buy the kit, or just infer from that picture
  11. My advice - use the rule of thumb for planning, as far as purchasing your stock. Then build the top of the bench on some sawhorses that are sized to simulate the height based on the rule of thumb. Do some work (including flattening the top by hand, if that's your choice) and see how that feels - then adjust the legs as necessary.
  12. I went to the Baltimore show last weekend. A couple of impressions: It felt like there were more speakers while also there was less "infomercialization" of them There wasn't any big iron tool makers (haven't been for a couple of years), but the handheld/cordless tool spread felt very wide Felt like there were fewer "random flea-market" tool vendors There were a lot less of the borderline related vendors. The "crown molding cutting jig" guy was there, but I didn't see any gutter cleaning systems or garden tool-only vendors
  13. It depends on how much you think you'll use each. Personally, I find a ton of uses for my forstner bits, so getting a set of them was worthwhile for me. However, I don't think you'll likely find a set with more than 2 of the bits in that list. For router bits, I think that adding them piecemeal as needs arise is the better strategy, especially given that the bits needed here don't usually come in most kits sold. [Anecdote]When I was just starting out woodworking, I bought a set of 8 (or maybe 10) "common" router bits and have only ever really used the 2 straight bits that were in there.[/Anecdote]
  14. Everything tdale51 said is good to check/ Two other things you should check as well: 1) Does the cap iron make firm contact across the entire width of the blade? If not, you need to work (bend/grind//sand) until it does. 2) Does the blade/cap iron firmly bed in the frog without the lever cap? If you place the iron on the frog, but it wiggles, you need to work out whatever high spots are in the frog. This could also be an issue caused by the bend/curve you've shown in the blade itself - in which case you'd need a new blade. Does that curve get "corrected" when the cap iron is on?
  15. Torch02

    A Gift Box

    Exactly! The darker strip near teh front of the lid is a feature - the extra finish will help with wear & tear on the part of the lid most likely to get touched ;-)
  16. I think I've settled on 21" from the ends. I'll get to that next bench blog post shortly... (ha!)
  17. Thanks for the thoughts. Good to hear my gut feeling about centering the legs confirmed by another. I'll probably mock up some legs out of cardboard, set them at 18" in, then slide them around to get a better feel. As for pics, I only have the one blog post up so far, but I'm due for another (considering I finished flattening the top last night).
  18. Working on my Roubo and while I still have to flatten my top, I'm thinking ahead to the planning base. I was able to get a top slab that is 9'9" long (117") which is 20" longer than the plans. I'm asking for some help in determining where to place the legs on this longer bench. Two questions - Should I center/balance the legs? and What should the over hang be on each end? The guild plans call for the legs to be offset with respect to the overhang on each side, but I would guess that has to do with the room needed for the Benchcrafted tail vise. I'm not using that hardware, so I don't have that specific restriction. I have a Record quick release vise that I'll nee to accomodate, but even that's not as big of a concern - since I went with a single slab for the top, I won't have a top stretcher and thus would only need to set the end vise back far enough to clear the depth of the front right leg. Keeping the same width of the legs (5 3/8"), I would have 106 1/4" of "not the legs" length to the bench Using the same proportions as the plans (which is about 20%/55%/25%) make the bench 20.5" - leg - 58" - leg - 27.75" The larger of the plan's overhangs would be 20" - leg - 66.25" - leg - 20" The shorter of the plan's overhangs would be 15" - leg - 76.25" - leg - 15" I only need 12" for the end vise's clearance, so any of those plans would "fit" my hardware. Thoughts?
  19. Perhaps a full wallet - you will be tempted by something in the Marketplace.
  20. I would say either a router plane - or - kill two birds with one stone and get a high quality rabbet/block plane like this Lie Nielsen
  21. The initial thought is that you should rotate all the tools 180' with respect to the center of the garage. I think the biggest advantage woul dbe the extra infeed space you'd get from the open garage door. That's what I did with my two-car garage setup: With the garage door open, I can move my planer (it has built-in wheels) and get pseudo-infinite infeed space from the driveway. With your drawing, it looks like you would have trouble getting long stock on the infeed side of your SawStop. On a second look, maybe you just need to rotate those central tools (TS, planer, jointer) 180'
  22. I'll offer this - I've very happy from a temperature and foot/back comfort with the floor I put in my garage - 4 mil polysheeting, 2x4 sleepers that framed 1.5" rigid foam insulation, topped with 3/4" T&G OSB. The one thing I would change from what I did is I would have floated the floor instead of TapCon screwing it into the concrete. Things to think of regardless of what type of wood floor you want to put in: - Do you want any outlets in the floor? - Will this tie into the structure/wall framing? - How will you cap the ends/edges? Related: what are your plans for baseboards?
  23. Sorry, I can't really say, as my turning experiece is just a smidge above zero.