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About protectedvoid

  • Birthday 07/14/1976

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    Wilmington, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Pretty much game for learning anything

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  1. Thanks to everyone that provided all the excellent information.
  2. Thanks, Ace. I am hand-applying, so the denatured alcohol sounds like the right approach. So, once the wood has been dyed, should I use the 2# cut of shellac as a seal coat before applying the stain, or is a barrier coat not needed, and I can apply the stain directly overtop of the dye?
  3. I think the RTM 16 or the RTM 111 is pretty much the exact finish I'm looking for. Thank you for that link!
  4. Wow, such awesome answers. So, rather than trying to reply to everyone individually, let me try to answer everyone's questions: Spraying: Unfortunately, no, I do not yet have an HVLP system. It's on the purchase list for this year, as it looks like there are a couple moderately priced models from Earlex that would be good choices. Topcoat: I was leaning towards the Satin GF Arm-R-Seal. I want a nice even sheen, but I also want the wood "touchable", if that makes sense. I am not a big fan of thick topcoats, at least not for most furniture items. I prefer something close to the wood. Sealcoat: I used the 2# cut of the Zinnser Shellac to help reduce the amount of stain that the pores will absorb. In my test samples, I was pretty happy with the results I achieved from this. Stains: I prefer to use the oil-based products...partly because my experience with water-bourne finishes is limited, and partly because the water-bourne finishes I've used thus far have not overly impressed me as far as the color results are concerned. Again, this could be lack of experience. *** So, it sounds like I need to stop the sanding at 150 to help the oak absorb more color. So, I'll give that a go on another scrap sample of the red oak. As for the Gel Stain, I haven't used one of those before, so I'm somewhat hesitant to make this project a "test project" for using the gel stain on a large surface area. The regular stains are just more familiar to me. As I mentioned, I really like the kona stain...and I think I will try mixing two parts kona to 1 part autumn and see what results that yields with the 2# seal coat. So, a followup question: If I decide to use the TransTint, which would be the better layer to tint? The sealcoat, which hits the wood first -- or the barrier coat, which is applied to block off the stain from the top coat? I'm not far from the local Woodcraft, so I can definitely pick up some GF Gel Stain to practice with. I just don't see this project as being the right one for experimentation.
  5. Hey guys...looking for some help in the finishing department for this project. So, I have a basic 30" base cabinet, with solid oak facing and doors / drawer. I will be using cabinet grade red oak ply for the sides and back, and adding red oak posts on the four corners. Basically, I will be transforming this simple (read: cheap) base cabinet into a multi-purpose island in the kitchen. I've been playing with a few different approaches in regards to finishing. I want the finished base cabinet to be a warm, dark espresso color (almost like a dark walnut, but with more of a chocolate-like warmth). I found a stain, made by Rustoleum (yeah, I know, it's not a GF), called Kona that I really like, and when it goes on, is very close to the color I want, albeit slightly "cooler" than I want. The problem is, when I wipe the excess off after about 10 minutes, that rich color mostly vanishes, resulting in a much lighter overall stain, with very dark pore accents. So, here's what I've tried thus far on some samples. All samples have been sanded to 220 (I'm thinking I may need to stop at 150?). I have applied the stain directly to the bare wood, waited about 10 minutes, wiped, let dry overnight, then apply a second coat of a lighter, warmer stain, waited 10 minutes, lightly wiped, and let dry overnight, then applied a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac. I've also tried using an initial coat of the dewaxed shellac on the bare wood as a sanding sealer, let dry for 1 hour, lightly scuff-sand (again, using 220), then applied the Kona stain. After about 10 minutes, I wiped the excess, let dry overnight, then applied the warmer stain (Autumn), and lightly wiped the excess after roughly 10 minutes. This method seemed to prevent the pores from absorbing too much stain, so the overall appearance of the grain was somewhat deemphasized. Again, I applied a barrier coat of the dewaxed shellac. So, here's where I need some guidance. I am pretty sure I want to use a 2lb cut of the dewaxed shellac as a sealer prior to staining the wood. I was much happier with the pore appearance when starting with this method. But, I was also thinking about using a TransTint dye, mixed with the shellac, to help get a more even tonal consistency between the late / early wood growth and pores. The question is, when should / do I apply the TransTint? Should I use the TransTint in the sanding sealcoat on the bare wood first, then stain it? Or should I stain the wood first, and then use the TransTint in the barrier coat of dewaxed shellac before my topcoat? This will be used on all the solid oak pieces, as well as on the oak ply on the sides / back as well (If that matters). Any help / guidance here would be awesome. Thanks.
  6. I am really leaning towards that small BU smoother. It just seems to combine the best of both worlds.
  7. So, I finally have a job where I have the ability to purchase a couple new planes a month (if I so desire), and one of the ones on my list is a low-angle block plane. But, in looking at the offerings from Lee Valley, I came across this Small Bevel-Up Smooth Plane:,41182,52515 Based on the dimensional information, the Small Bevel-Up is very close to size, and almost the exact same functionality as, the low-angle block. So, I'm really leaning towards the Small BU Smooth plane, and I'm just wondering if there's any benefit a low-angle block plane will provide that the small bu plane wouldn't, and I'm just not seeing it? Additionally, has anyone used the Small BU Smooth plane. If so, what were your impressions. Additional information: I already own a standard block plane. Thanks in advance.
  8. I definitely plan to do that. Do you have a particular sealer you'd recommend? That is pretty. As I mentioned, I'll likely make some walking sticks to put up on etsy out of the thinner branches. I also plan to slice a few rounds from the trunk base at about 12/4 to do some natural shape trays. The rest, I'd like to use to build a bed for my daughter. I guess I just need to find a sawyer near me that will also kiln dry the lumber. Provided that's the direction I should take.
  9. My father-in-law has graciously agreed to allow me to remove a large plum tree that recently died due to infection from his back yard. The trunk is roughly 24" in diameter and has a large, multi-branch crotch (?). The larger sections of branches I plan to sculpt into walking sticks or other "sculpture" type pieces. My hope is that I'll get some good usable pieces from the trunk. The question is, how do I go about slabbing this up? And, once it has been cut, how do I go about drying it? I live in Wilmington, NC and would be willing to drive some distance to have it done right, but honestly, I don't even know where to begin. Anyone have any experience in this area?
  10. You're a pretty brave guy. Cool to know you were successful with the cut, but honestly, I would've chickened out. From what I understand, the blade support on the Bosch is pretty solid. I've had some people tell me there's no wander at all - others say that it's very minimal, and only when making difficult curves. Like you, I much prefer the barrel grip. I think the grip is more natural than a D handle, especially where fine control is needed. Although, I was never a fan of ironing, either, so maybe I suffer the same dislike as you.
  11. protectedvoid


    Knife is an 8" Chef's knife (for scale)
  12. protectedvoid

    Cutting Boards

    Various photos of cutting board projects made from scraps. Basically a way for me to practice jointing and flattening by hand as well as experiment with different woods / contrast combinations.
  13. Yeah, the 1591 EVSL is basically the newer version, with the new Loxx box container - similar to festool's systainer. I'm glad to hear so many people have had good luck w/ this. I guess that'll be my next purchase when taxes finally come back.
  14. Those are both very good ideas. I've actually used both methods to apply pressure to wide 2' x 4' panel glue-ups where I needed a total of 2 1/2". I know that when I laminated my router table top, I used contact cement to bond the laminate (formica) to the MDF / Masonite, then used a j-roller to make sure I had a flat and air-free bond as I removed each dowel. That worked very well.