protectedvoid

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About protectedvoid

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 07/14/1976

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wilmington, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Pretty much game for learning anything

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    protectedvoid
  1. Thanks to everyone that provided all the excellent information.
  2. Thanks, Ace. I am hand-applying, so the denatured alcohol sounds like the right approach. So, once the wood has been dyed, should I use the 2# cut of shellac as a seal coat before applying the stain, or is a barrier coat not needed, and I can apply the stain directly overtop of the dye?
  3. I think the RTM 16 or the RTM 111 is pretty much the exact finish I'm looking for. Thank you for that link!
  4. Wow, such awesome answers. So, rather than trying to reply to everyone individually, let me try to answer everyone's questions: Spraying: Unfortunately, no, I do not yet have an HVLP system. It's on the purchase list for this year, as it looks like there are a couple moderately priced models from Earlex that would be good choices. Topcoat: I was leaning towards the Satin GF Arm-R-Seal. I want a nice even sheen, but I also want the wood "touchable", if that makes sense. I am not a big fan of thick topcoats, at least not for most furniture items. I prefer something close to the wood. S
  5. Hey guys...looking for some help in the finishing department for this project. So, I have a basic 30" base cabinet, with solid oak facing and doors / drawer. I will be using cabinet grade red oak ply for the sides and back, and adding red oak posts on the four corners. Basically, I will be transforming this simple (read: cheap) base cabinet into a multi-purpose island in the kitchen. I've been playing with a few different approaches in regards to finishing. I want the finished base cabinet to be a warm, dark espresso color (almost like a dark walnut, but with more of a chocolate-like wa
  6. I am really leaning towards that small BU smoother. It just seems to combine the best of both worlds.
  7. So, I finally have a job where I have the ability to purchase a couple new planes a month (if I so desire), and one of the ones on my list is a low-angle block plane. But, in looking at the offerings from Lee Valley, I came across this Small Bevel-Up Smooth Plane: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67691&cat=1,41182,52515 Based on the dimensional information, the Small Bevel-Up is very close to size, and almost the exact same functionality as, the low-angle block. So, I'm really leaning towards the Small BU Smooth plane, and I'm just wondering if there's any benefit a low-ang
  8. I definitely plan to do that. Do you have a particular sealer you'd recommend? That is pretty. As I mentioned, I'll likely make some walking sticks to put up on etsy out of the thinner branches. I also plan to slice a few rounds from the trunk base at about 12/4 to do some natural shape trays. The rest, I'd like to use to build a bed for my daughter. I guess I just need to find a sawyer near me that will also kiln dry the lumber. Provided that's the direction I should take.
  9. My father-in-law has graciously agreed to allow me to remove a large plum tree that recently died due to infection from his back yard. The trunk is roughly 24" in diameter and has a large, multi-branch crotch (?). The larger sections of branches I plan to sculpt into walking sticks or other "sculpture" type pieces. My hope is that I'll get some good usable pieces from the trunk. The question is, how do I go about slabbing this up? And, once it has been cut, how do I go about drying it? I live in Wilmington, NC and would be willing to drive some distance to have it done right, but honestly
  10. You're a pretty brave guy. Cool to know you were successful with the cut, but honestly, I would've chickened out. From what I understand, the blade support on the Bosch is pretty solid. I've had some people tell me there's no wander at all - others say that it's very minimal, and only when making difficult curves. Like you, I much prefer the barrel grip. I think the grip is more natural than a D handle, especially where fine control is needed. Although, I was never a fan of ironing, either, so maybe I suffer the same dislike as you.
  11. protectedvoid

    DSC_6039.jpg

    Knife is an 8" Chef's knife (for scale)
  12. protectedvoid

    Cutting Boards

    Various photos of cutting board projects made from scraps. Basically a way for me to practice jointing and flattening by hand as well as experiment with different woods / contrast combinations.
  13. Yeah, the 1591 EVSL is basically the newer version, with the new Loxx box container - similar to festool's systainer. I'm glad to hear so many people have had good luck w/ this. I guess that'll be my next purchase when taxes finally come back.
  14. Those are both very good ideas. I've actually used both methods to apply pressure to wide 2' x 4' panel glue-ups where I needed a total of 2 1/2". I know that when I laminated my router table top, I used contact cement to bond the laminate (formica) to the MDF / Masonite, then used a j-roller to make sure I had a flat and air-free bond as I removed each dowel. That worked very well.