drzaius

Members
  • Content Count

    3819
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

drzaius last won the day on December 25 2019

drzaius had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2071 Excellent

2 Followers

About drzaius

  • Rank
    Master Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Calgary, Alberta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Home reno to furniture making

Recent Profile Visitors

4530 profile views
  1. For a round over of less than 1/8" radius I use a block plane & then just touch it up with sandpaper to smooth any facets left by the plane. That's much cleaner than just sanding and faster too. Unless there's a huge amount to do, then I'll use a round over bit.
  2. William Ng also has a good video on the construction & calibration of a CC sled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ
  3. If you've got the room, get a slider.
  4. This thread is over 6 years old & the OP hasn't been here since 2015, so it's unlikely you'll get a response.
  5. I mostly break down sheet goods with a guide & circular saw into manageable sizes & then use the TS to trim to final size. If I have a big project using a lot of plywood, I'll set up an auxiliary in feed table and another extension to the left of the blade. The key to accurate cuts is to have the sheet fully supported for the full cut, from start to finish. That way, I'm not stressing & fighting to hold the sheet as well as trying to keep it tight to the fence. And I'll give the tables & fence a fresh coat of wax. With all that setup, it's easy to break down a ton of sheet goods very quickly & accurately. The hardest part is getting the sheet up on the table. There are lots of dollies & devices to ease the carrying & handling of sheet goods. You just have to do a search & pick the ones that will work for you in your shop.
  6. It's going to make a cool looking cutting board, but the epoxy concerns me a little. There will be little fragments of epoxy mixed in with whatever is cut. I don't know how safe that is. Anyone?
  7. On another forum someone asked a similar question about the same brackets. They are for wooden campaign chairs. As I recall, they are available commercially, but are very expensive. Sorry, can't remember any more than that.
  8. If you look at the edge on the second photo, you can see that the crack is fairly narrow. Most of what's seen on top is over pour.
  9. I don't think you can do better value wise than the Freud Premier Fusion combo blade. Glass smooth cross cuts, a decent ripper, and well under a hundred bucks.
  10. Well, my collector is so quiet, being in its own little soundproof room, that I do hear the hiss of the gates when they're all closed. If I open one of them, then no, I don't hear them.
  11. Every market is different. Talk to a real estate agent. In Calgary it's extremely difficult to find anything in light industrial that's less than about 1500 sq ft. Another option would be to look for a residential garage for rent.
  12. When I say they leak, I mean just enough that a small amount of air can be heard hissing at the gate. Certainly not enough to matter at all.
  13. Agreed, they are nice & nicely priced. And of course they leak, but only a miniscule amount. I seriously doubt there are totally leak proof ones, unless maybe if you spent a fortune on them.
  14. I've learned the same thing. That last pass should be very light and run through at a moderate, steady speed. Makes a world of difference. I also like to make the second to last pass lighter, maybe an 1/8" or less.
  15. No, not reliably. I think it would with dye though.