drzaius

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drzaius last won the day on October 3

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About drzaius

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  • Location
    : Calgary, Alberta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Home reno to furniture making

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  1. I'll ask as well; is the movement in the router shaft or the lift? (please don't shout at us)
  2. If the original collector had the blower & motor matched properly, then a bigger motor will do nothing at all to increase performance. Does it ever trip out on overload? If the answer is no, then a bigger motor will do nothing for you.
  3. I don't agree with that. My last 2 fences were dead on. That said, with a left tilt saw, the cursor will only be accurate when using the same width blade that it was calibrated on.
  4. For a miter slot, .5mm might as well be a centimeter I know if you don't watch for it, it's easy to let the board wander away from the fence a tiny bit in the middle of a cut. I've had this happen before myself. It just requires constant attention and pressure to keep the piece tight to the fence. Of course, as already pointed out, you need to start with a perfectly straight edge
  5. I don't think that 30" fence has any business on a PCS. It's a jobsite saw grade fence at best.
  6. I'd like to have something like that, only vertical, but the shop is a garage & the slope on the floor would be problematic.
  7. Not just the health effects, but unless great care is taken, it's easy for errant drops of bleach to find their way onto clothes with predictable results.
  8. I've read the advice about not using bleach on many mainstream sources, so I tend to believe it.
  9. There are better, more user friendly products than bleach that can be used on mold. Check them out. Clean every thing up, let it dry and see what's usable.
  10. Hide glue would have been a much better choice than PVA, but...
  11. I'd try washing the old off with alcohol & a plastic scrubbing pad, then a coat of fresh shellac. I've seen old shellac that stayed soft for weeks after application.
  12. Generally speaking, cracking happens when a faster drying finish of one type is applied over a slower drying, or not completely cured coat of another type of finish. My thinking is that the old shellac was not completely hardened & then the poly was applied. The film of poly wants to shrink a bit as it dries & cracks appear cause the soft shellac can't hold it in place & allows a bit of movement. The veneer on plywood will absorb more finish than solid wood. Maybe it absorbed enough that it takes that much longer to fully dry than the solid pieces.
  13. I used PVA glue. It's kinda permanent, but that's all I had on hand & I'll be worn out long before that leather is.