drzaius

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drzaius last won the day on November 22

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About drzaius

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Calgary, Alberta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Home reno to furniture making

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  1. I'd only use ipe with carbide tools. I went through a ton of HSS drill bits just drilling the screw holes on my decking.
  2. As far as the house painting goes, it will be mostly rolled & brushed, but there are some closets that would take a fraction of the time to spray and some of the larger rooms where it's easy to put down drop cloths I would have my wife or one of the kids spray while I follow with a roller. For the walls, it doesn't have to go on nicely, it just has to go on quickly. The trim is all brushed because I like a brushed finish.
  3. That's exactly how I do it. A shallow circumferential cut then bend the cable. If the remainder of the sheath doesn't part on its own, then careful cuts with a box cutter will finish the job without the blade ever touching the wire insulation.
  4. As I suspected, one sprayer is not going to serve well for all purposes. I'll check out the airless sprayers to see what that'll cost me. And thanks for the 'tip' on the tips
  5. I have a 2 HP compressor with a 60 gallon tank. Would that run a gun Tom? I've rented an airless from HD to do the shop, but this project is going to drag out over many weekends & the rental adds up. If I can get a gun that does the job, I think I may try that. Thanks.
  6. I'm going to be repainting the entire interior of my house this winter & think this might be a good time to get a sprayer. This project will be with latex paint, but I'd like to get something that could be used for wood finishes as well; dyes, polyurethane, water and oil based, maybe lacquer. I know nothing about this subject, other than having used an airless sprayer about 15 years ago to do inside of my shop & it worked great. So are my wishes compatible with any one type of sprayer? Which will work better; HVLP or airless? Thanks in advance.
  7. Very important. If your machine needs 30A at 240V, then you need a 30A, 250V, 3 wire plug. There are also 250V, 3 phase, 4 wire; 125/250V 4 wire; and 125/250V 3 phase 5 wire configurations. You must use the correct configuration, not one that 'will do the job'. To do otherwise can create a danger to life and/or equipment if something else is plugged into that outlet.
  8. drzaius

    Roasted Wood?

    I've seen it over 2" thick & the color was uniform throughout.
  9. Yes, you can make your own. Run the cord out of a junction box, using the appropriate connector, and then put a female cord end on it. You need to provide some robust strain relief for the part that is suspended. For that you need a woven wire strain relief grip, known colloquially as a 'horse cock'. That hangs from a eye hook in the ceiling. I prefer this type to the kind that connects directly to the box because the box can get wrecked in a hurry.
  10. drzaius

    Roasted Wood?

    Lee Valley uses it for some of their tool handles. They also sell small pieces of it for turning. I think they're scraps left over from the tool handle manufacturing.
  11. The danger with coloring the filler is that it may just absorb so much stain/dye that it darkens far more than the surrounding wood. It's a good idea to seal the filler first & then go at it with the brushes like @gee-dub said.
  12. Or you could find a chunk of aluminum with some of the raw ore still stuck to it & make a live edge gauge.
  13. My night table top is finished with 2 coats of brush on poly. I keep a water bottle there & quite often it sweats, or I'll slop a little water in the middle of the night. Been doing that for about 15 years with no ill effects. Surprises the heck out of me how durable that finish is. I'd do just as @wtnhighlander suggested above.
  14. Yes, they are very soft. Poor choice for a dining table, unless you're going for the 'rustic' look . Then you could just go the home center & get construction lumber. That would be much cheaper.