drzaius

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drzaius last won the day on August 4

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About drzaius

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    Male
  • Location
    : Calgary, Alberta
  • Woodworking Interests
    Home reno to furniture making

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  1. The only composites that aren't really ugly are quite expensive, more than ipe, and they still aren't great. Composites just make no sense at all to me.
  2. If you go solid wood top, then make the curved build up pieces so that the grain runs in the same direction as the part of the top they are glued to. Then there will be no issue with wood movement and the edge will look better too.
  3. I would hope not. One could write paragraphs of critique on that piece.
  4. I agree with the above. Rough cut it with the jig saw & then finish with a template & pattern bit in the router. Leave plenty of waste with the jig saw because in thick cuts, the blade can flex a lot, leaving a cut that is not 90*.
  5. @wtnhighlander makes a very good point about the fence. A good fence, and that's the only kind of fence you want, is expensive. It's better to have a good fence on a mediocre saw than the other way around. Used is a great way to go, but make sure the saw has a riving knife & a good usable guard, one where they are easy & quick to install & remove. If they are not easy to use, they just won't get used as often as they should. My last saw had a horrible splitter and guard so they never got used. Ever. The saw I have now has a very good riving knife & guard that take just a few seconds to change out. They get used always. I don't know about your dad, but I find that as I age, I have to pay extra attention to safety & like to take advantage of the safeties that are available.
  6. The Franklin is very good with drywall, but as Tom said, not so good with plaster. I did have a Zircon that would calibrate itself to the particular wall, whether plaster or drywall (1 or 2 layers) and was good at detecting the studs. But it was a pain to use. If you happen to let go of the power button while using it, calibration was lost. Even letting it lift off the wall surface screwed up the calibration. Eventually I tossed it because it was too frustrating to use. Around these part there are very few houses with lath & plaster so I don't have much need for that functionality.
  7. That's the same one as @Tom King & I referred to above. I should have added that it's the best electronic stud finder that I've ever used, and I've tried many over the decades. The Walabot is a fairly new type of sensor that interests me. It gets lots of good reviews on Amazon, but I'm leery of those, especially with a product that is so new.
  8. Epoxy has very poor UV resistance unless it specifically states that it's been formulated to be UV resistant. I wouldn't even use it indoors if there was a chance that sun shining through the window light will hit it. I think application would be difficult unless it's flooded on horizontally, and then it will just make it look like plastic, and who wants that?
  9. Time well spent man.
  10. Haha! No such thing as a bad pun.
  11. Franklin makes a very good one. Can't remember the model.
  12. The problem with any film forming finish like epoxy, varnish, etc is that when it does start to fail, it looks super ugly. And refinishing will be a major project.
  13. Milling the rough lumber is just grunt work & not something that I'd want to have to do by hand. That time & energy is better spent on the finer aspects of had tool work. For example, @derekcohen has, I think, a great blend of hand tool/power tool in his work flow.
  14. drzaius

    Dowel Plate

    When I did some research into draw bore pins, I read about the importance of selecting straight grain and hand riving it down to size before running it through a dowel plate. I decided that was waaayyyy too much friggin work so went & bought the Lee Valley dowels & got on with the project. I didn't have a single dowel that failed or was too big/small for the hole. But if I had to make lots of them, and I mean LOTS, I'd consider the Veritas Dowel Maker. It gets good marks from users but is very expensive.