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Everything posted by drzaius

  1. Call SawStop. They have excellent customer service.
  2. Tom, how about having a machine shop spray weld to build up the worn areas & then machine them to specification? Abom has a couple of videos showing how he does that. It requires special equipment though.
  3. I've been watching his videos for a couple of years now. They are excellent. Production quality is high and he has a good way of explaining what he's doing. I'm not into metal work at all, but I find it very interesting to watch.
  4. New treads are in order. Use a hardwood an put a bullnose on the front edges. If you want to maintain a rustic look, use white oak & then beat it up to simulate wear & age. Then apply a glaze, wipe it down, and apply several coats of low sheen polyurethane. The glaze will darken the dents & scratches to help give it a more rustic look. The treads on my stairs at home are just starting to look like they need a refinish & they are almost 28 years old.
  5. The blower will not be able to crush a 5 gallon bucket. It produces far less static pressure than a shop vac.
  6. Nick hasn't been on here since 2012, so he's unlikely to reply. You should remove your email address from your post because bots will harvest it & send you lots & lots of spam.
  7. But regularly boiling them for sterilization is part of the deal, which shellac won't stand up to well.
  8. I've used some that, if used on a rough surface will shed very fine fibers, or 'micro lint' as @Mark J called it. But on a smooth surface, no lint.
  9. I've never tried them, but microfiber cloths shed very little in the way of lint and are not very expensive.
  10. Spraying with a rattle can is dead simple. Slow, even, overlapping strokes. Keep the coats light. Watch some youtubes to get an idea of the technique.
  11. The question is whether or not that stainless steel is magnetic. And the refills are really expensive compared to a Sharpie. How about gluing a washer to a regular Sharpie cap? When that one runs dry, just switch the cap to a new Sharpie.
  12. Is it wipe-on poly or brush-on that you're using? Wipe-on is much more forgiving but takes more coats for the the same level of protection. Personally, I prefer to use wipe-on. If you have brush-on you can thin it out with paint thinner, assuming it's not water borne poly. The best thing to apply it with is old cotton t-shirt material that has been through the wash numerous times. It will shed way less lint than fresher cloth. Or you could try using a folded up shop towel (blue heavy duty paper towels). I've used those in a pinch & they work okay.
  13. Yes, like spray paint. Search for tinted lacquer & you'll find some. Amazon carries it, or you may find somewhere local that has it. That will basically negate the effects of the absorption differences on the wood surface. It will take a lot of spray lacquer to build a good film, so you may want to just apply the tinted lacquer until the color is right & then do a top coat or two with polyurethane for added protection. Shouldn't be a problem spraying that on your balcony.
  14. I have no idea if they're available, but do any of the big box stores carry rattle can tinted finishes? Might be worth checking out.
  15. My comments were purely tongue-in-cheek (I thought the smiley made that clear). I think the best way to get a good result will be to spray on a dye followed by a top coat, or a tinted finish.
  16. Couple of takeaways here: 1. don't use pine for anything but the fireplace 2. don't use stain on wood
  17. Call SawStop tech support. They'll look after you.
  18. I guess that makes me almost as old & farty cause when I got my license, gas was $.49/ Cdn gallon. One morning on the way to school I was just about out of gas, so my buddies & I scraped together 3 nickels and a dime. With that, we stopped at the full service gas station (that was the only kind then) & got half a gallon of gas & a very dirty look from the pump jockey. Good times! Sorry for the hijack.
  19. 30 Ga snap lock duct can easily be collapsed by a powerful DC. I've seen video of it happening. Spiral duct of the same gauge is a lot stronger, but I don't think I'd want to go as thin as 30 Ga.
  20. Have you actually tested that relief method? I have a hard time thinking that a DC would have enough static pressure to rupture the tape. A shop vac maybe, but not a DC. I have a 5 HP Oneida that really sucks, but there's no way it would break that tape.
  21. Choking the airflow down will greatly reduce the effectiveness of the cyclone separation. A cheap shop vac will work much better.
  22. I think you picked that sentence right out of my brain. But since I discovered water resistant MDF (Medex is one brand), I'm now less hesitant to use it when I need something flat, hard, stable and/or easy to paint. It's probably just as dusty, but the dust doesn't seem as fine. And it is so much stronger & less likely to delaminate if you look at it wrong. More money, but totally worth it. Some of Izzy Swan's stuff is downright dangerous & just makes me shake my head. What you did looks safe enough., but the only way I'd do it is if I moved the saw outside & it was a very windy day.
  23. drzaius

    Guest Posting

    There are many cases of newly registered members who's first post is a question about a project they are working on. Members make the effort to reply with suggestions, hints, or requests for more info, yet the OP just turns out to be another drive by. I'm pretty sure that would become an epidemic if guests were allowed to post. I can't see how allowing guest posts would bring in new forum members. If someone wants to become part of something, the registration process is not a hindrance.
  24. Perhaps rather than using construction lumber, rip some strips of Baltic Birch plywood & laminate them to the desired thickness. That would be far stronger and splitting would not be an issue.