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Everything posted by drzaius

  1. Same here. And those type of questions almost always come from those who have not a clue.
  2. That is going to severely limit shopping choices. Drop shipping from the manufacturer is very common & there's nothing wrong with it. Why incur the extra cost of shipping from manufacturer to seller to end user. And no matter what they say about free shipping, it is the end user that pays.
  3. True, but that is definitely an approach that requires more advanced skills to get done just right.
  4. Your design is evolving nicely. Both draw bore and wedged tenons will hold the joint together very well. But draw boring will also pull the joint very tight & then hold it there. With draw boring you don't need to make them through tenons. I chose to use draw boring on all the stretchers. No clamping needed.
  5. Sound attenuation is dependent on 3 things; mass, absorption, and isolation. Because of its structural rigidity it transmits sound relatively well. It has very little mass, so it's not much good there. Isolation can actually be hampered by foam, particularly sprayed in closed cell. It will be closely coupled with one or both surfaces of the wall. If foam board is carefully installed, it at least will not couple the 2 sides. Foam will absorb some sound, but one needs to consider the cost of it vs other, much better materials. You can pay for a lot of 5/8 drywall & Greenglue for what it would cost to fill the wall with foam.
  6. I should add, very little compared to other methods of sound attenuation. Check out some of the websites on the subject that publish testing data on sound transmission ratings of various materials and wall assemblies. Foam is way down the list, especially closed cell foams. In fact, in some wall assemblies, closed cell foam can be no better than and empty cavity. Any kind of barrier, even draperies will cut down sound transmission. Foam board is a terribly expensive way to try to block sound.
  7. Foam board, either expanded or extruded, will do very little for sound attenuation.
  8. The OP hasn't been here since they're last post, so you're unlikely to get a response.
  9. Ouch! Remember the original lawn darts from the early '80s?
  10. Haha! That reminded me of a game my SIL would play as a kid with his brothers. It was called "don't look up". They would stand in a circle & each throw some object (rock, stick, whatever) up in the air then not look up. If you did, you lost. And sometimes if you didn't, you lost too
  11. Lexel is great stuff, but I don't know how well it works as an adhesive. Even in the open, as a caulk, it takes a loooong time to dry/cure.
  12. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't poly+stain a tinted polyurethane? If so, then it shouldn't be wiped off. Tinted finishes should be applied in several light, even coats in order to minimize variations in color depth. I agree that a card scraper would work best on a finish that isn't fully cured.
  13. I agree, if the drawing is to scale, then the bench is going to be very unstable when using the end vise. Rather than dovetails for the stretchers, mortise & tenon offers more glue area. For a little belt & suspenders, draw bore and glue them. Another advantage to draw bore is that you won't need clamps when gluing the joint. In this situation, a dovetail doesn't offer any advantage. Its forte is that it resists pulling apart. What is needed here is racking resistance.
  14. Nope, used a gas cartridge that was good for 2 activations.
  15. The OEM plates are not cheap, but work well. One solution to keeping a nice tight slot for the blade is to just fill the widened slot with epoxy or Bondo & then recut it. I read that from another post (by @gee-dub I think).
  16. I don't understand why you're not using the guard. It has the dual function of protecting you and collecting the dust that escapes from behind the blade. It's such and easy guard to use, remove and reinstall that there's really no excuse for not using it. So I'm going to play hard nosed critic here & say that your insert has 2 fatal flaws: it limits blade travel, it precludes the use of the guard, and it still lets some dust escape from around the blade. What you've made creates more problems than it solves. Hard pass for me.
  17. What @Tom King and @pkinneb said. There's no reason you can't chop mortices with bench chisels, just take lighter cuts. If the edges are too fragile, then just grind a higher angle secondary bevel, like 35* or so. If you are capable of cutting that joint in your sketch, then chopping mortices will be a piece of cake. And that joint will be very weak.
  18. Can you post a pic? I wonder if it was used by its maker to plane his way out of the big house?
  19. My first plane was a Record block plane that I might have paid $20 for brand new. It took a couple of hours of tuning, but it works great. About the only difference in performance between it & the Lie-Nielsen rabbit block plane I have is that the Lie-Nielsen iron holds an edge better and is much prettier.
  20. About the only other level sensor that is just as good for this application is the rotating vane type. They are also very expensive & the big vanes would be awkward to implement in a small bin like I've got.
  21. I understand your reasoning, but we won't let you forget to start a thread once things get moving
  22. They are amazing aircraft. Designed way back in the stone age but are still very popular. Of course, the new ones have modern turboprops all the latest avionics, etc. When De Havilland went under, Viking Air bought the license to make the plane from De Havilland Canada.
  23. I've never been able to get consistent, accurate performance from the bin level sensor that came with my Oneida DC. It's always been prone tripping before nearly full, and much worse, not tripping when the bin is full. Oneida wasn't much help, they say that is just how it is. So, I ordered this beauty: It's a vibrating bulk solids level switch. That rod vibrates & when the dust level gets to the rod, it dampens the vibrations & closes the alarm contact. Accurate to within about a millimeter. This is an industrial item & new is somewhere north of 1000 bucks, but I got this one used from Radwell for $110 CDN c/w a 2 year warranty. Can't wait to install it & hopefully say goodbye to solidly packed filters and the accompanying blue cloud of profanity
  24. Just make sure that beer isn't until after the "lift" work
  25. A couple of years ago I did some fan maintenance in a plant that builds the Twin Otter. The guy there said that if a tool is dropped & dents the aircraft, they have to remove the entire damaged panel & replace it, which can be a very lengthy process. No Bondo.