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Everything posted by drzaius

  1. Short of sending them to a lab for destructive testing, you can't. Which is a shame because they sure are cool looking. Personally, I'd hesitate to use them. Maybe drill a hole on the underside & see what the chips smell like.
  2. drzaius

    Feet Up Rev 2

    I've been to Arches several times. It's one of my favorite of the many spectacular parks in southern Utah.
  3. Brusso hardware is a joy to handle & use. Great stuff.
  4. Check out Engles Coach Shop on YouTube. The link takes you to a dozen or so of his videos on bending wood. The guy is incredibly talented & you may get sucked into hours of watching if you're not careful.
  5. I watched a different video a few years ago & it was fascinating. The stitching is not something that is well done without a lot of practice.
  6. That's the saw that I have & it is tuned up & very accurate. BUT, good technique while cutting is required to avoid introducing any sideways forces and inconsistencies in the wood can cause deviations. I find the flattest, smoothest, most accurate cut is obtained by making an initial cut just about .5 mm over sized & then a very light cut to trim it to size. It's just easier for me to get the best results on the table saw.
  7. Olive oil will just attract gunk & eventually start to stink once it goes rancid. Use drying oils only, despite what innumerable, useless youtube & home hints sites will tell you.
  8. If fine furniture making is your focus, then you might be better served by a good miter guide on the table saw. It you do want a miter saw, the non-sliders will be more accurate than a slider. Every single slider I've looked at will flex side to side some with not a lot of pressure. I have an old Makita LS1212 & it is mostly used for rough cutting or trim work when renovating. I have on occasion used close it's full capacity, but that's rare. If I had to buy another saw tomorrow, I'd probably get a 12" non-slider.
  9. It's a guide bearing that is intermittently making contact with the blade, which is normal & somewhat audible. But it seems like that bearing is wearing out, which causes that characteristic 'bark'.
  10. Forgive me, but I'm going to take this just a little off topic here. While under a vacuum for say, 24 hours, will a piece lose appreciable moisture? I'm thinking it's basically a vacuum kiln.
  11. I don't & am at work now, but they are just a length of MDF with reinforcing ribs on the back. One end is secured to the end of the bed, the other end is supported by an adjustable roller stand (with the roller removed) so I can get it perfectly in line with the bed.
  12. Does your neighbor know you call him a tool behind his back? I agree about the roller stands. They're just too fussy to get lined up properly. I made bed extensions for my jointer & that works well.
  13. Why not (honest question)? I use my Incra 1000 for precision stuff & it is dead spot on. I'm sure the Bridge City is at least as good.
  14. And when you're standing outside beside one it kinda looks like a BORG cube & they do their best to assimilate you.
  15. True. And if it gets hard to handle the long stuff, bed extensions are easy to make & very effective
  16. Good times Chet. My 15 YO grand daughter has always been interested in spending time in the shop, but the lately has really wanted to do more. Here parents hardly know which end of a hammer is which. We are doing some cabinet renos in our 5th wheel & she is involved in every bit of the job. Most times when I start to explain a process she interrupt to finish because she's always 1 step ahead. You can't put a price on time spent like this.
  17. As an avid participator in many detentions, I concur. But you sure were able to find the beautiful table that was hiding therein.
  18. Beautiful wood. How's the water borne affect the color?
  19. Oh yes. There are different SS alloys, but unless I know the quality, I treat them all like they are brass; generous pilot hole & for the long ones, pre-tap with a steel screw.
  20. So sorry for your loss. I have no other words.
  21. drzaius

    more power!

    My neck must be scarlet red then. As a wee lad I was often much farther down the line (BIG family) than that to bathe in a laundry tub full of sludge. Yuck!
  22. If you've ever seen them burning the old, rotten ties it is plain by all the black smoke that the bad stuff is still in them.
  23. Probably not for long. You want to be able to maintain a wet edge when spraying (or rolling, or brushing) and that won't be possible if you're having to wait for the compressor to build pressure.
  24. Keeping it looking like that will be a monumental and ongoing chore. There are 2 paths to take. One is to refinish often, like every few months with a non-film forming oil finish. That's an easy job, just a quick clean up followed by application of the oil & then a wipe down. But like I said, it will need to be done every couple of months if the table is out in the sun & rain. The other is to use a film forming finish that will last longer, maybe a year or 2, but will require complete stripping before refinishing. The oil finish will gradually get dry & faded looking, but the film finish will crack, blister & peel, allowing moisture to get under it & into the wood. It will soon look catastrophically ugly so as soon as it starts looking bad you want to jump right on it. Another issue you may face is whether or not the glue used in building it will stand up to moisture. And with the wide variations in environmental humidity that happen outdoors, wood movement may cause cracking & splitting.