• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by drzaius

  1. Brass, always by hand. And that follows pre-tapping with a steel screw. Unlike most of life's lessons, I only had to learn that one once.
  2. Even the best sliding compound miter saws have some flex in them that can introduce error, particularly when making deep cuts. When that is an issue, I will make a first cut about 1/16" long & then do a slow, easy cut to trim to final dimension. That yields a cut that's flat & square.
  3. Around here, just about any store that sells woodworking tools & machinery carries SawStop. Prices are the same everywhere, so it comes down to location and customer service at the store. I got mine at Lee Valley.
  4. I'd like to give the new hydraulic impact, or 'impulse' drivers a try. They're much quieter.
  5. Nope, you don't. In North America, 110V went out at least 60 or 70 years ago. The utility supplied voltage is 120V. And just to add to the confusion, motors will be rated 115V or 230V, but that's another story.
  6. The thing that's great about an impact driver is that it will start driving at high speed & then when the going gets tough, it slows down & cranks up the torque via the impact function. Great for building decks & fences. But they are also very good at setting a screw to just the right level. With use & practice, you get to know just how far the screw drive with each impact & you can obtain some pretty granular control with it. I don't care for the noise they make though.
  7. Ya, get used to it But seriously, let's clear the air here. Asian made can be just as good as the finest American or European machines. It's the American companies that import them, and ultimately the consumer that pays for them that specifies the quality of the build. They just build it like we tell 'em to build it. Cheap is king.
  8. You definitely can get by with 1.75 HP, which is about the limit of the 120V (not 110V, there's no such thing) machines, but even 2X softwood, AKA construction lumber, AKA SPF, can tax it's capability. I had a 1.5 HP saw for years, then went to 3 HP & would not want to go back.
  9. Eric had a number of issues with his Grizzly machines & I think he ended up selling them all off. He seemed like a pretty fussy guy though.
  10. There is no such thing as an all in one drill, hammer drill & impact driver. Cordless drills with a hammer function (albeit pretty anemic) are common, but an impact driver is a different beast. Although you can get hex shank drill bits that will work in an impact driver, it's definitely an off label use & a case of using the wrong tool for the job. There is a new type of impact driver that uses a hydraulic rather than mechanical impact drive that is much quieter. Of course, they're also more money. As far as brands go, have a look at the whole line to see what they offer. Makita, Dewalt and Milwaukee have extensive lines of cordless construction, shop and yard tools. What you may want to buy down the road will affect your decision. Personally, I'm in the Milwaukee universe, but not because they are so much greater than the others.
  11. Around here, 'argument' doesn't have negative connotations, as we are a genteel lot whom like to maintain a high degree of decorum
  12. The story of the demise of General is an epic of Bysantine proportions. My understanding is that technically, it has been resurrected, but the website is mostly nonfunctional, and I haven't been able to find anyone that carries the machines or parts other than old stock. @curlyoak, I don't have experience with that model, but I've got a 75-260, which is a 17" and it is a very solid machine. Quill run out is good, I've not measured it, but I can't detect any in use. The 6" quill travel is something that I really like. Don't use it often, but when I need it... The down sides? The depth stop is horrendous & one day I will fit it with something better. I believe @gee-dub posted a thread on this or some other forum about one he made that looks real good. Changing speeds is a clumsy operation the requires way too many steps & tools. The crank for raising the table is obscenely long; so much so that if the press is against the wall, you can't even operate the crank a full 360*. I shortened mine.
  13. I agree, for the occasional 1/4" hole a hammer drill will do it.
  14. ...and leaves me with no desire to make more.
  15. Wow, there's no accounting for taste. But does walnut not lighten with age? I've seen antique walnut furniture that is darn near blonde.
  16. I'm gonna argue with @..Kev about this. Only you can decide if it's that much better. How much is better build quality, fit and finish, ease of assembly, tech support, and quality of components worth to you? I looked at the Asian clones, of which Grizzly, Shop Fox and countless other house brands are, and compared them to the SawStop. It was heads & shoulders above those others and was well worth that additional cost to me. I also looked at Powermatic and it has very nice fit & finish, but there were a couple of things that crossed them off the list. Firstly, their integrated mobile base is just plain goofy and is prone to problems. Second was the snotty response to questions asked of the customer service about the product. Okay, there's a third, and that is poor customer service after the sale. Kev and I would agree on that one.
  17. I've not use it, but had a look when I got my saw. It's at the upper end of the contractor segment for sure. But you don't want to get the 'premium' fence, cause it's anything but. The T-square fence is far better. Honestly, for the cost of a SawStop contractor saw, you could get a decent cabinet saw. I know I'd rather have the cabinet saw.
  18. Get yourself a dial indicator (not expensive) for aligning the fence & blade and get a decent square for getting the 90* & 45* stops set on the blade & miter guide. And don't 'mess with it again'. Go watch some videos on the process, get the tools you need, and be thorough & methodical about getting the thing calibrated. Buying bad tools will only ensure that you will hate the hobby
  19. I would not buy a Delta machine. They've got a very bad history, over the last decade or so, of having been bought & sold multiple times with customer service & parts availability ranging from bad to completely non-existent. Delta used to make some very fine machinery, but you can't get new parts for them anymore. The current owners introduced new lines scrapped the entire parts inventory for all the older machines. To me, that's a big 'screw you' to anybody that owns old Delta stuff.
  20. Welcome Capn. Looks like you're on the right track with priorities. Safety: look for a good, easy to use guard and riving knife. It should be easy & quick to mount & remove them, preferably toolless. There are lots of times when you need to switch them out & if that is a pain, then they won't get used. And there's always the blade brake technology, which is great, but the SawStop machines that have it are pricey. The brake only adds a couple of hundred dollars, but the saws are otherwise high end, which runs the price up. Fence: I like the Biesmeyer clone type, but not all clones are good. There should be no flex at the back end, even under substantial side pressure. They are simple to adjust, and they stay true forever. Precision: more money gets you greater precision, but even at your budget level you'll be fine. It's mainly a matter of taking the time, like hours if needed, to calibrate it properly. Once that's done, they generally stay that way. Unless it's dropped or something I suggest you rethink your budget though. If you can afford $2500, then a better quality table saw is something that you'll appreciate every time you use it. When I upgrade from a contractor saw, I got a SawStop PCS and am very happy with it. It's got a very good fence and the riving knife/guard are about the best there is. And it has the blade brake. Good luck & happy shopping.
  21. Concrete block is where they shine. Anything harder, not so much. I'm not an authority, but I've done 10's of thousands of holes in concrete from 3/16" up to 12" x 60" deep, so I do know my way around a 'hammer drill'
  22. Once you've used one, you never want to go back.
  23. From your comments, OP, it sounds like you need to do a serious calibration of that saw: 1. Get the blade parallel with the miter slot 2. Set the fence parallel with the miter slot. Some like to have the back of the fence slightly farther from the blade, but it should be no more that a couple of thousandths out. 3. Adjust the insert plate so it's perfectly flush with the table. There are a ton of videos showing how to do this, so I won't try to explain it here. Here's a good place to start: The Wood Whisperer Right now you're just fighting the saw.
  24. Are you confusing a hammer drill with an impact driver? The impact driver is what is used to provide very high torque by use of a rotary 'hammer' mechanism inside the drive. It's the one that goes 'klack klack klack' when driving resistance goes up. A hammer drill provides a linear concussion through the masonry bit to help fracture the concrete ahead of the tip to aid in drilling. You wouldn't use one of these to try to undo lug nuts. Just a word about the 'hammer' function included in many cordless drills; it's more noise than function, really. It does marginally speed up the drilling rate, but if you're doing hard concrete or stone, provides almost no benefit at all. To get serious about putting holes in concrete & stone, you need a rotary hammer. They typically us SDS bits & have a much more powerful percussive force at the bit. I have an M18 rotary hammer & it is an amazing tool.