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Everything posted by drzaius

  1. It's very common. I don't entirely understand why it happens, but it does & it can be very persistent. Even after sanding the joint smooth again, it can appear after another coat of finish.
  2. The suggestions made by others here are good ones. I'll just add that it is a good idea to use some of the off cuts as practice pieces. You'll soon get the hang of it.
  3. A wipe on poly is an easy to apply finish that will be very durable. Choose a low gloss for both better appearance and low glare. I goes on in very thin coats, so for a desk top you'll probably need 4 or 5 coats. I like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, but there are others that are good as well. If you haven't got the top yet, check out the bamboo counter tops. It is much harder than birch and is beautiful. It has a contemporary, sophisticated look that looks more like furniture & less like something you chop food on. I'm not knocking the birch, just offering an alternative suggestion.
  4. It's pretty amazing what he can do for some very chewed up old furniture.
  5. I've found a really good youtube channel, Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration . This guys obviously got many decades of experience and has a mellow, laid back approach to his work. The editing and pacing is very good. What I especially like is that he shows his whole process, warts & missteps included. These are good videos to pick up techniques & work around for difficult situations. I could watch it for hours.
  6. High as it will go, or at least 10' to keep it clear of swinging lumber. If it isn't bright enough, then add fixtures.
  7. This is going to be fun to follow. Doing stained glass is something I'm going to try one day.
  8. I've had no issues with my Mk. II guide. Maybe I'm using it wrong?
  9. I've noticed that even factory stained & finished engineered maple flooring shows a lot of blotchiness.
  10. I've heard that the Narex rasps are pretty good for the price.
  11. Of course, I agree with everything you say there. If God wanted us to stain maple, he wouldn't have made it so blotch prone.
  12. The Jasper jig is designed to be used with a 1/4" bit, and a spiral is the way to go. I like to stick the board being cut to a waste board with a bit of 2 sided tape to keep the center waste piece in place when the cut is complete. I don't know that it's necessary, but having that waste piece shift & possibly ruin the hole makes me nervous.
  13. Dye applied by spray is probably the best bet.
  14. I learn something new every day.
  15. There are finishes that won't yellow at all, but the wood will eventually. My kitchen cabinets originally had a non-yellowing finish & the maple stayed pretty white for several years, but is now considerably darker. I personally like the color it goes after aging.
  16. Something about the resins in the glue is abrasive. I've never noticed PVA glue causing issues, but man, the stuff they use in plywood just eats HSS for breakfast.
  17. I don't have a lot of experience with shellac, but reading stuff by those do suggests that pure ethanol is the very best. Availability can be an issue though.
  18. The more I do chisel work, the more I realize that what makes a great chisel can be quite personal. It's better to get some less expensive chisels to start out, to let you discover what works best for you. Narex makes some very high value stuff; very decent quality at very good prices, and are a good place to start.
  19. I agree, but the exception, as I understand (I've never used one), is with a shaper. Because of the size of bite they can take, a stout power feeder is needed to safely feed and control the stock. I may be wrong though.
  20. Alcohol will remove it.
  21. Doing a good long lasting repair that respects the original piece is a complex job. It looks like those aprons are secured with screws, so hopefully they can be removed. You could do as @wtnhighlander suggested & cut off the tenons & replace with dowels, or you could cut back the tops & bottoms of the tenons to give them a shoulder of 3/8" or so. Please, please, please, do not use the pressure treated turning from HD. It is not an appropriate wood, it will not be strong enough for this application, and it will be ugly. A new turning, all out of one piece, complete with the block will be best. But if you can't get a replacement turned, then cut off the block & attach a new one with a dowel. Cutting mortises in the new block is certainly doable with few tools, a couple of youtubes, and some practice. I would keep the end of the mortise back at least 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom (leg end) of the block because there is a lot going on there with the dowel through the middle & the mortises. If your joints end up a little loose, then use epoxy to glue it all together. It has much better gap filling properties than wood glue. Do not use polyurethane glue if there are gaps. You'll see some say that because it foams up a bit while curing it will fill the gaps. It will fill the gaps alright, but that foamy glue has little strength. Empirical testing has proved this. Good luck with this & please let us know how things turn out.
  22. I've done it using the blade like a scraper & also actually using slicing motion. The safer method is probably to use it like a scraper. curve the blade a little so you hit only the blob. Probably best to wait until the finish is fully cured though.
  23. I was just going to suggest the same thing. You'll never even notice it.
  24. I carefully considered getting one, but realized that I would only very rarely get to use it. I only remove the guard when absolutely necessary & if the Grripper will fit between the fence & guard, then the Grripper isn't even needed. When I emailed the company about my conundrum, the reply basically said that with a Grripper, you don't need the guard.