elrodk

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About elrodk

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    box making, furniture

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  1. To get a color like that on pine you need to use a stain. Tip - use a piece of scrap to test the finish and color until you get what you want. Do you have some short pieces left over? If not, pick up a 2 x 4 that looks like your table. Work on a small section, 4-5 inches for a color test. Please heed this with any stain. Stains and oils penetrate deeply in soft woods and will not sand off without removing some wood. Look at Minwax stains online or in your home center. Fruitwood, provencial, or special walnut look similar to the picture. These are oil based colors. I'm not familiar with the water based stains. After you get the color you will still want to top coat it with polyurethane or something similar. Tip - Don't sand the stain before applying the first layer of topcoat. Read the topcoat label to see if it can be used over oil based stain and how long to wait for the stain to cure. You can also pick up a can of spray shellac and seal the stain. Then you can use any top coat if the shellac is not enough.
  2. I like the design and contrasting bits. Nice!
  3. I purchased 36" track and it was only 1" longer than needed. I didn't see a reason to trim it. Leaving it long on the inside, next to the saw, doesn't get in the way. It also lets me get the stop block an inch closer to the blade but that wasn't necessary. I can always use a scrap spacer or even make a long stop block. You got me! I dunno?
  4. The inside of doors it a great idea. If you are so inclined, you could make the signature panel separate from the door panel and removable. The rails and stiles are just a big frame. I would rabbet the inside. Then put it together like a picture frame with the signatures visible on the inside. The signature panel could then be removed and displayed in a frame or kept if you did have to part with the sideboard later in life. Inside of drawers would be hard to sign and guaranteed to have something on top of them.
  5. This is a twist on the normal product review. It is a review of plans instead of a finished product. I, for one, would be interested in seeing more of this type of review. There are tons of plans available for purchase or download on the internet. I finally put the finishing touches on my miter saw workstation that I started last year. It is based on the Woodworker's Journal Ultimate Miter Saw Stand plan available from Rockler or the magazine site. Here is a picture of the miter saw stand from the original plan. I made some changes to better suit my needs but before we get to that let's look at what the plan offers. The plan appears to be a pdf of a magazine article published in June 2010 Woodworker's Journal. It's 10 pages and includes a materials list and a cutting diagram for the plywood sheets and the hardwood trim. The plan, as originally drawn includes some shop made storage bins, a shop made fence using Kreg track and stops, and includes some dust collection features. The main idea of the dust collection is to use an ivac switch to turn on a shop vac hidden away in the center section. It's a good idea and would help muffle the noise of the shop vac. The downside is you would dedicate a shop vac to the miter saw. Another feature is the way the saw mounts. It has a center section that can be built to the appropriate height for any saw. If you ever change saws all you have to do is modify or rebuild this piece. The saw mount is also adjustable front to back to align with the fence if you add a zero clearance fence to the saw. The author, Chris Marshall, gives a step by step walk through of cutting and assembling the case pieces. Construction is a combination of dados and butt joints for the case and pocket screws for the face frame. The hardwood edging is attached with biscuits. It's complicated enough that I would not consider it a beginner project. It would certainly be a great skill building project for someone who has built a few projects and wants to practice some new techniques on shop furniture. Anyone who takes their time and follows along will end up with a nice miter saw station. The optional storage bins are put together with dovetails and this is really the only area in the plans that is not well documented. Builders who do not have any experience with a dovetail jig or hand cut dovetails would be stuck. For what it is it would have been better to instruct the builder to use butt joints or some sort of table saw joinery. Overall I would rate the plans highly. The instructions are thorough, except the bins, and you are walked through all the steps in the proper sequence. When I first ran across this plan I knew it was very close to what I had been looking for. The Craftsman saw in the picture is just like mine so it was meant to be. The first thing I did after getting my hands on the plans was to change a couple of things. The spacing for the top section was 6". I wanted to use Harbor Freight storage bins which are just over 6". As a side note, I have a bunch of these bins for my shelves and find them useful for all sorts of things. I drew the plans in sketchup changing the top section to 6 1/2" and adjusted the lower dividers 1/4" closer in each section. Otherwise I built the carcass as shown. I also built the saw mount as shown. The carcass is maple ply from Lowes stained with walnut danish oil. Everything is top coated with satin poly. I deleted the holes and baffle for dust collection. The workstation is on wheels and I planned to just leave it a few inches from the wall with dust collection pipe behind. I also did not plan to dedicate a vac to the saw and left the center section open for a cutoff bin. Instead of open shelves on the side sections I built large drawers. This allows more flexibility with the storage and using full extension slides I can get to stuff in the back. I made frame and panel drawer fronts from walnut and 1/4" maple ply. I changed the wheel arrangement. The plan called for 6 swivel casters. I put fixed casters in the middle making the unit steerable. I thought this would be easier to move around and I think it is. What I didn't consider is with the wheels in the center it swings on both ends which makes it a little harder to snug up to a wall. The final change is a nod to Marc's miter saw station. I ditched the top fence and just embedded track for stop blocks. I have always hated the idea of tying up all that flat surface with a fence. I need as much dual purpose space as possible. I can just slide off the stop blocks and I have two 25" x 35" work tables when needed. This extra space is very handy. Here are a few pictures of the finished product. First the overall workstation. Here is the adjustable saw mount A shot of the smaller drawer fully open and the harbor freight bins. I put a chamfer on the drawer edges. I like simple details. I spend a lot of time in the shop so I like for it to be nice.
  6. @lewisc Denatured alcohol is the solvent in shellac. Also called ethel alcohol or ethenol. Basically grain alcohol, think 180 proof, with an additive to make it undrinkable. I suppose if it were mixed with water it might raise the grain better. I only use it as a cleaner or solvent. I'm becoming a fan of using water on all projects. Rough sand, wet and let dry at least a couple of hours. Sand to 150 and wet again. I've heard of sanding to 180 and wetting again before going to 220. I believe wetting two times is plenty so I stop wetting at 150. I alwayssand to at least 220. Wetting has two major advantages. Raising the grain gives you a smoother finish and while the project is wet you can see any glue spots or scratches. The second wetting verifies that you fixed the blemishes.
  7. Here are some budget numbers from my shop quote in 2015. My shop is 30 x 34 so it is close, in size, to what you are looking at. Some of these numbers changed because we added or deleted during the building process. Also building materials and labor fluctuate and vary by region and contractor. Framing material $9,300: roof scissor trusses, floor joists, LVL beams, sheathing, subfloors, 2x6 wall studs etc. This is just the start and it is worth saying that it was advantech subfloor and the green sheathing done with zip tape. I think some of this is higher quality than the HD package. I'm guessing my subfloor cost roughly the same as the attic floor in the HD plan. Close enough for a rough comparison. Doors and windows $3,700. Again these are pretty high quality. I have 4 slider windows that are 4ft by 8ft. Two 2 x 4 ft gable fixed windows and two double entry doors. Outswing for the main shop and the normal inswing for the basement. No garage doors. Excluding the foundation I have $13k for the building shell. To compare to the HD package add these two subcontractor jobs Roofer $4,350.00 (shingles and installaiton) Siding mat. & labor $ 6,725.00 (vinyl to match house - HOA requirement) That is another $11k installed bringing it up to just over $24,000. Labor to get it dried in was about $7,500. By my calculations my builder gave me a building shell comparable to the HD package for less than HD is charging for the kit. Here are the remaining major items that I put into my shop. You are going to want insulation even if you don't install heat or air. I also highly recommend a sink. My wife has 216 sq ft for stained glass studio and water was a must. If you have a sink you might as well add a toilet. In my mind these are a must for a stand alone building. I added a shower for those days when I get really dirty in the yard or shop. Not really a must but if you do then hot water is a must. If I did it again I might delete the shower and get one of those little 10 gallon undersink hot water heaters. It's still nice to have hot water to wash up, clean brushes, etc. I'm just saying you can skimp where you want and spend more on what's important. Other subcontractors: Insulation $ 2,280.00 (I have a basement, wood floor is insulated underneath. This included all exterior walls, ceiling, and floor to residential code.) Downspouts $620.00 Gutter Helmet $ 1,040.00 Plumbing $ 3,500.00 (full bath and a utility sink. Includes labor and materials to tie into house plumbing and s eptic tank.) Drywall mat. And labor $ 6,928.00 (The shop has a spouse hobby room, bath room, storage closet, and vaulted ceiling. I finished everything with drywall and paint.) Electrician $ 5,940.00 (A 200A panel with 17 circuits. 220v Mini-split, hot water, table saw, dust collector, bandsaw. 3 110v circuits for the wood shop, one for the bath, one for the wife's room, lights, outside GFI, basement GFI. I just counted the 110v outlets in the wood shop - 20 wall outlets, 3 ceiling, and 2 in the floor. I don't have a spot that is more than 4 feet without an outlet and I wish I had more. I also have the 220v in the floor for the TS and BS) Heating and Air $6,893.00 (I can't remember if this is accurate. We went with a minisplit with two indoor units. ) Okay. This got way long but I hope it gives you some help to see a real world case. These were my budget numbers but most of it came close in the end except where we changed things.
  8. elrodk

    Rockler ProLift

    Thanks Chestnut. I believe you are right about the inserts. My old Craftsman table saw had a router table wing which was just a hole in the cast iron top with some snap in rings. Most were rarely used. I sold the saw last year after getting a Sawstop. I currently have a router screwed to a piece of 3/4 ply that I clamp to a bench. It's not as flat or stable as I would like and no fence. My plan is to build my version of John White's extension table router wing from fww #216 and drop in a lift. I recall someone built theirs with a separate router table fence. I like that idea because a separate fence means I can use the saw without tearing down the router setup. I have the 52" rails and the router can stay set up for 90% of the tablesaw cuts. I think I'll go ahead and order the Rockler lift. I can send it back if it seems hinky when I get my hands on it. I'll post some pictures when I get everything set up and some sort of review or thoughts on the lift.
  9. Does anyone have the Rockler ProLift and if so how do you like it? I have a $50 coupon that expires tomorrow and I've had my eye on one for a while. I really like the idea of dual speed adjustment. The only downside I have found is the different size snap rings are crazy expensive and should be included. Well that and the overall lack of info from people who have used one. Thanks!
  10. The table looks great. The center tile is a good idea for this type of table.
  11. If your slabs are flat and straight enough on the top side you can adjust on the underside to fix the misalignment. Just route a mortise to the appropriate depth on the underside of the high piece. If there is a twist or uneven thickness it could get tricky. Best bet would be to plane or drum sand the top pieces to a consistent thickness. If this is not feasible, you could route (or chisel) a mortise for all the base attachment points a little deeper than needed. Shim everything level between the base and the tops. The shims will be hidden in the mortise and covered when the base is attached. The mortise will need to allow for cross grain movement.
  12. elrodk

    Shop Layout Help

    Is there any chance you can put the dust collector in the utility closet? This would free up some floor space and help with noise.
  13. That Oneida Supercell looks interesting to me for a small shop running one tool at a time. It seems to be a hybrid between a normal cyclone and a vac. Maybe a shop vac on steroids? It has the suction and velocity of a vac and the cfm of a larger machine. Can it really do the job of both? Has anyone used or seen one of these in action?
  14. I used this for sliding stops on my miter saw station. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71119-Double-Cut-Universal-Predrilled/dp/B075695GSL It's the one that takes 5/16 and 1/4 T bolts and 1/4 hex head bolts. So to answer the question, not all are the same. There is one specific for each size of bolts and then the universal type. I don't know if one brand is better than another but there are different types.
  15. Hi Everyone. I don't have a domino...yet. I repair drilled holes by gluing in a dowel. Flush cut and redrill. Since the dominos won't show, could you glue in the loose tenons, flush cut, and recut the mortise? Would that be too weak?