elrodk

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About elrodk

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  • Woodworking Interests
    box making, furniture

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  1. I used this for sliding stops on my miter saw station. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71119-Double-Cut-Universal-Predrilled/dp/B075695GSL It's the one that takes 5/16 and 1/4 T bolts and 1/4 hex head bolts. So to answer the question, not all are the same. There is one specific for each size of bolts and then the universal type. I don't know if one brand is better than another but there are different types.
  2. Hi Everyone. I don't have a domino...yet. I repair drilled holes by gluing in a dowel. Flush cut and redrill. Since the dominos won't show, could you glue in the loose tenons, flush cut, and recut the mortise? Would that be too weak?
  3. elrodk

    Cordless Chainsaws

    This thread is a little old but I just ran across it. I have the 18" 80v Kobalt saw. Essentially the same as the Greenworks. I got a deal where the saw was on sale plus a mail in promotion for a second battery. It cuts good. Plenty of torque from the 80v motor with the bar buried. I have had the thermal breaker shut off but that was trying to cut hickory slabs on my granberg mill. It's not the right saw for that kind of abuse. The benefit of a battery saw is the quick homeowner jobs. No need to run out and buy fresh gas or mix. Even dropping and cutting up a 10-15" tree can be done on a charge. No regrets but I would never have considered if it was in the 400-500 price range. I think I paid under 250.
  4. I kept the foam from my powermatic and use it to break down sheet goods. Stores on top of the wood rack easier to deal with than a 4x8 sheet. If you paint it green you can pretend it is a Festool accessory and save $400.
  5. I'm also interested in the Laguna PFlux 3. Somebody on Woodtalkonline must have a 3 hp Laguna, CFlux or PFlux. I went through the specs a couple of weeks ago and the Laguna compares well to Oneida and Clearvue when you consider CFM and static pressure. The bin seems really well thought out and easy to empty. On paper it seems head and shoulders above the Jet models. It also seems very similar to the JDS units that you can no longer get. I guess the only real knock is the height of the cyclone. Many people have commented that the shorter cyclones don't separate as well. Are those comments based on real world experience or just speculation? I get the theoretical part but are we talking a small percentage or a whole lot. I mean why not make all cyclones at least 15 ft high if height is so important? After studying on this a bit I see the cyclone shape is different and maybe the impeller design is a little different too. Maybe these design differences together make it have a similar separation factor. Maybe not. Anyway the bottom line is does anyone have a 3 hp unit? If so, can you tell us how it performs at separation and what you are basing the performance on or comparing to? It would be invaluable to hear from someone who has experience with a CV or Oneida and the Laguna. As a matter of comparison does anyone have a 3 hp JDS dust collector? Thanks for any insight...
  6. As you look at other shops pick out areas that might work for you. It's not likely you will find something to copy in its entirety. The 30 x 36 shop was my inspiration. The jpg is a sketchup export of my plan. I borrowed the idea of a central tool cluster and for me it worked out great. I'm able to have one dust collection run with branches and some floor outlets serve those 4 machines. This one idea was a big space saver rather than the traditional around the wall layout. I'm a hobby shop so it's about space more than production. Everybody else may hate the cluster in the middle of the floor but I wouldn't do it any differently. Btw I got the tool cluster and the table saw right. The other items shifted around some from the plan. But I planned everything else around those items anyway.30x36shop.pdf Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  7. Excellent point CharlieDude! I started this hobby with a circular saw, corded hand drill, and hammer. I quickly learned I needed a "good" table saw so I went to Sears and bought a Craftsman saw. That was my perspective of quality at the time and it wasn't a bad saw for me at that time. In the last 15 years my definition of good has changed considerably. I know a lot more about woodworking tools and woodworking in general. A wise man once told me the more you learn the more you realize you need to learn more. Age and experience guide everyone to some extent. Some people don't know about quality and others my look at certain items as expendable. It's definitely a throwaway society we live in. So maybe the customer thinks they are supposed to buy a coffee table every year and maybe that's what they need. The dog is going to chew on the corners and the kids will beat up the top anyway. Maybe they don't to spend more than $50. We are selling craftsmanship and hand made quality but our main goal should be to understand what the customer needs. If they want a particle board box and it meets their needs then the best thing we can do is point them to Wal-Mart instead of up selling. I would try to discover what the customer wants and needs. Hopefully they really want or need something in line with what I do. If that is the case then it should be easy to explain why they need your product. If what they want is not what I'm selling that's ok too. I have a lot of respect for the shop that sends me somewhere else when they don't have what I need. When I talk to a salesperson I want someone to help me buy what I need. Not sell me what they have. I'll go back to one of those every time and never talk to the other again.
  8. Sorry I misread the question as what is the best way to brush on poly. I agree wipe on is easier and looks more natural than most of us can achieve with a brush. Since you are a newbie, I would highly recommend that you try the wipe on poly. I prefer satin because you see the wood instead of the finish. It looks similar to a hand rubbed oil finish but has the protection of poly. I just use blue paper towels for small items and lamb pads for big projects. Lint free cotton should work fine too. Safety note, don't wad up the applicators and put them in the trash. We don't need a science experiment to prove spontaneous combustion. I hang mine over the edge of the can until they dry. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  9. If you are brushing poly you need a high quality brush. You can get these at the home center or a paint store. You will have a heck of a time getting a smooth finish with a crappy brush. I don't consider a $12-$20 brush a throw away item. The first thing to know about oil based poly is it is activated by moisture in the air. Don't brush out of the can or keep your container open for any longer than necessary. Get a pack of the gladware or rubbermaid takealongs. They are great temporary containers. Pour in what you think you will use and brush or wipe out of this container. When you are finished don't pour it back in the can. If there is enough for another project put the lid on and hope it doesn't harden. If it does you lost a few ounces instead of the entire can. If there is just a little leave it open until it dries hard and then toss in the trash. When you brush if it is not leveling, meaning you see brush strokes, then add a little mineral spirits, maybe 10%-15% and try again. Let it dry and sand lightly between coats with 320 or 400 grit. One coat is never enough. Thin coats work best for me and I usually do 2-3 coats on the entire project. Maybe, no definitely, a couple more coats on a table top or wear surface. Take said gladware container or an old can, pour in some mineral spirits and clean your brush as soon as you are done. I usually have a two container brush rinse. Soak a bit in the first batch and work out as much as possible. The mineral spirits become a very thin batch of poly so its important to follow with a rinse in a clean batch of mineral spirits. I'll use the cleaner a couple of times and then throw it out. Also note that if you let the poly harden on the brush then it is time for a new one. After it dries it will not come out with mineral spirits. I hope this helps you out some.
  10. Thanks guys. Good find on the Google image. I couldn't find a close match and you found the exact bench. I loosened the bolt and it think it will come apart. I don't know if you can tell in my picture but there is a split in the top corner of the dovetail. I think if I can get all that nasty glue out of the joint it will pull back together. I'll let you know. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  11. Hello. I haven't posted in a few months. Just haven't had much woodwork to share but the times, they are a changing. I picked up a small Sjobergs workbench at a second hand store. It was rickety and had some damage but seemed like some tlc would put it back in usable shape. I started by disassembling the base and replaced all the 3/8" particle board panels with 1/2" MDF. It's knock down assembly with small bench bolts. The end assemblies are glued so I glued the panel in to solidify those. They were pretty good to start with. The long rails on the bottom were both bowed and twisted so I made new ones out of some salvaged cherry I had sitting around. The face frame was falling apart. I just cleaned up the joints and glued it back together. Since the front is a glued up assembly I also glued the MDF in the back rails to make a bolt together panel. After reassembling everything the base is solid and the extra weight of the MDF makes it feel a lot more robust. Now here is where I have a question or six. The idiot that had this bench mangled the front vice. I cleaned up and lived the tail vice and it's good to go. The front vise was busted and then glued together with some type of hard clear glue. Must be acrylic based because it shatters like glass when you chip it off. Do you think if I can clean the joints and pull it into alignment with clamps it will be okay? I'm sure it won't be a super tight dovetail and the end is broken but I am thinking of trying anyway. I'll only have one shot at it because if the joint will close I'll fill her with epoxy and it will be there 'till death do us part. Would you try this or rebuild the end cap? Don't tell me to throw the top out and start over. That's not the objective here. Finally what should be on the end of the front vise screw? Do any of you have a similar vise or better yet a Sjobergs that is intact? I would like a picture. Thanks! Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  12. I can't find the bandsaw mill plans or remember where I got them. Anyway let's go ahead and say it's a lot of work to mill lumber this way. It makes a ton of sawdust and a big mess. In my old shop I could roll the saw outside. I was sawing green logs and that gums up everything. You will have a lot of cleanup if you go this route. Now the good part is it's pretty cool to cut a tree, mill and dry the lumber, and make a finished project. Now you can say I made this out of a tree! You can also get some very unique pieces like the quartersawn sycamore shown in my pictures. Also a lot of firewood comes out of the process. Here is a link to an album with the pictures. https://goo.gl/photos/JEi6eqsjkhyd4Hbw6 The plans I used allow me to cut about anything I can lift up on the saw. I put a stand under the outboard end of the auxiliary table to brace it. I have cut 4 ft logs that are 12" diameter but I wouldn't recommend it on a saw this size. This plan is two parts. You use a couple of lags to screw the log to the sled on the outboard side. Cut some flats. I'll batch this with 5 or 6 logs. Then move the fence part to the inboard side and use it to slice boards turning the log as desired. Remember to cut out the pith in the center board. It sucks to cut that wide board in half but trust me it will give you two usable boards instead of a piece of firewood. I've since seen some plans that look easier to use but I'll use this one as long as it and the saw holds up.
  13. I've done a fair amount of resawing small logs on my powermatic 14" with the riser. I have some photos of the sled. Can't remember where I found the plan. Will post photos tomorrow. Sent from my woodshop using duct tape, twine, and a bit of sawdust.
  14. Yeah. +1 on the saw blades. Any power tool will perform better with a better cutter. If you use the lathe a lot you might upgrade your lathe tools or chuck. If you only use a combo table saw blade maybe get a high quality crosscut and a real good rip blade. No one hand saw, hand plane, table saw blade, bandsaw blade, etc will ever be the best tool for every job. Do you get mediocre results when you do a specific job? Which job is most difficult? Get something to make that job easier, quicker, or to achieve better results. That's the best upgrade you can do! Sent from my woodshop using duct tape, twine, and a bit of sawdust.
  15. I didn't notice this post earlier. The collet in my Hitachi router kept getting stuck and the nut would come off. I found Think and Tinker. They have some awesome after market collets and accessories for most routers. They seem to cater to the high volume and cnc market and it is high quality stuff. Aka made in America and expensive. The new collet really improved my router experience. Sent from my woodshop using duct tape, twine, and a bit of sawdust.