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About elrodk

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    box making, furniture

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  1. I know this thread is pretty much dead but I ran across this today and thought it might help someone. Tractor Supply has trailer rentals. 6x10 trailer for $14.99 for 4 hours. $10 more for all day. I would not have thought to look there. Check the website for details and local pricing. Much cheaper than the truck rental if you have a hitch.
  2. If I read the specs correctly, Makita provides a 48 tooth blade that looks to be similar to a combination blade. They describe it as good for ripping plywood. This should be a good all around blade but may not be ideal for cross grain cuts on ply. If you get chipout when cross cutting, Makita has this one available. Just going by the specs it should be excellent for plywood. ATB, 60 tooth would be good for any cuts in ply. https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/A-99982 Another thing is some brands of plywood chip and splinter worse than others. I prefer a dedicated plywood bl
  3. Track saw or circular saw, get a good blade. I use Frued ultimate plywood blade but I'm sure the other manufacturers have something similar. The blade is where the rubber meets the road. Don't skimp here to avoid tearout and chipping.
  4. I purchased a Woodmizer LX55 with electric motor recently. I'm loving it. It's all manual, 22" width of cut, and handles a 26" log. I don't know the depth of cut but I'm sure it is posted on the website. I went electric because I may go months without cutting and because I have a place for it under my shop. I've been cutting mostly small logs of hard to find stuff. Persimmon, dogwood, sourwood, and beech in the last week.
  5. My HD has western cedar in the section with boards and molding. They have some fence boards and dimensional lumber (2x4, 2x6). This wood works about the same as pine and it will stand up to weather much better. If your store has this, you could return the construction lumber and get the cedar. It's likely to be rough sawn so you will need to sand or plane it smooth. It will be worth the effort. Cedar looks and smells good without any stain -- to me. You can use a stain or wood protectant if you want. Outdoor finish is a whole different can of worms. I would stay away from any film forming
  6. I would get another opinion on the HVAC. Did your people quote a mini split or something else? It's worth a lot to me to be able to work comfortably year round. My projects turn out better if the wood, glues, and finishes are at the proper temp and humidity. You were considering this so maybe it might make sense to save towards a HVAC system. It also seems like the ultimate solution if there is concern about noise bothering the neighbors. I bet some of the members have done a diy install of a mini split. There are some on YouTube. Is that an option for you? I also recommend a
  7. Without investing in any money up front... Hmmm... I think you are limited to rent/borrow something to bring it home or have it delivered. Since you have been renting I assume you don't have the option to borrow. That leaves you with the options to rent a vehicle from another place or have it delivered. If you can't get free delivery, Homer's big truck is probably the least expensive and hassle free way to go. Start looking at trucks for when the lease is up. There are plenty of truck options that can replace a sedan or SUV and do double duty as a family car and a lumber hauler.
  8. I built my miter station similar to The Woodwhisperer with no fence or projection above the top. For stops I just made blocks that attach with T bolts to miter track. They slide off when not in use and I use the flat surface as needed. Google "Woodwhisperer miter station" and watch the YouTube video "no fence miter station". you will see what I mean. This may not be what you want but I like it. I posted a review of the plans I used and at the end some pictures. Marc also offers a set of plans and videos for his version on the Woodwhisperer guild website.
  9. I'm in South Carolina and before I was able to have a minisplit in the shop I ran a dehumidifier. A small dehumidifier unit can lower the humidity enough to make a big difference for your tools and comfort in the humid months. The only issues I have ever had involve trapped moisture. Green wood, sawdust, or shavings left on surfaces will begin to rust in less than an hour. Dry materials, not just wood, may trap moisture or condensation. This is what works for me. 1. Clean ferrous tools and surfaces and don't leave anything on surfaces. Wipe down after use. 2. Apply a protectant
  10. A long time ago in 2010 is what? At least 12-15 years... Anyway... I have a few clamps and no pipe. Digging up this thread actually helps me decide to get some pipe and put them to use. Always something useful being discussed. Thanks!
  11. Confirmat screws are great for partical board, mdf, and plywood. You will need a step drill for the screws to work right. Woodcraft has a kit with screws, bit, and drill, #149261. It's on clearance. They also have boxes of screws. I hope they don't stop carrying these items.
  12. I use pocket screws on plywood projects and rarely use glue. No problems. Bookshelves, coat rack with cubbies, shop shelving units, miter saw station, and outfeed assembly table with screws and no glue. I mix in some confiramt screws. This is a step screw with special threads for ply and mdf. They are great for attaching shelves through the sides and case construction when it won't show. You get more strength with the confirmant screw for a side to end joint. I got a kit and a big box of screws from Rockler and have been using them for 3-4 years.
  13. I like the design and contrasting bits. Nice!
  14. I purchased 36" track and it was only 1" longer than needed. I didn't see a reason to trim it. Leaving it long on the inside, next to the saw, doesn't get in the way. It also lets me get the stop block an inch closer to the blade but that wasn't necessary. I can always use a scrap spacer or even make a long stop block. You got me! I dunno?
  15. The inside of doors it a great idea. If you are so inclined, you could make the signature panel separate from the door panel and removable. The rails and stiles are just a big frame. I would rabbet the inside. Then put it together like a picture frame with the signatures visible on the inside. The signature panel could then be removed and displayed in a frame or kept if you did have to part with the sideboard later in life. Inside of drawers would be hard to sign and guaranteed to have something on top of them.