JayTalbott

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About JayTalbott

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gilbert, AZ
  • Woodworking Interests
    Contemporary furniture
  1. I've noticed the same thing on the butcher block table I made a year ago. I think I used regular Titebond. It feels like there's a little ridge at every joint. I was going to sand mine down and hit it with a fresh coat or two of GF Salad Bowl Finish. But of somebody has an explanation of what's causing it and how to prevent it from happening again, I'd certainly like to know.
  2. Hey Paul-Marcel, I may take you up on that offer. I've got the tools, but will likely need a hand manhandling the large pieces into the jointer, planer, etc. And I can't imagine that there won't be a few other spots along the way where I'll be doing something I've never done before where I'll need a hand. Jay
  3. OK, I put the American Woodmark stain back on the shelf, swung by Woodcraft, and picked up a can of GF water-based stain and a can of GF pre-stain conditioner. I applied the pre-stain conditioner, and then after a couple of hours, commenced staining. Using this approach, it went a lot better than working with the American Woodmark stain, but it still wasn't ideal (ok, I'll admit that it could partially be my application technique). It also took about 4 coats to get the desired color. It's good enough for it's intended purpose, but I think next time I need to apply water based stain I need to consider getting an HVLP system. Thanks everybody for your help. Now on to putting on the topcoats using GF Arm-R-Seal.
  4. Thanks Ace! That thread describes my exact problem. It sounds like the "stain" I purchased really isn't designed for staining whole projects, but just for touching up dings on existing cabinets. I got it to work OK on my project from a year ago, but the circumstances were a lot different. For that project, I was working with cherry instead of maple. Also, I pre-finished all the parts before assembly on that project, and thus was working with much smaller areas where I could cover a whole piece in one wipe without leaving a wet edge anywhere. Mixing that with pre-wetting the wood with water per Marc's suggestion go me through that project with pretty decent results - but it was still a PITA. On this project, it seems my best option is to pick a different stain.
  5. It's a can of stain from American Woodmark (the company that makes cabinets for Home Depot). I originally bought it to get stain that exactly matched our kitchen cabinets for a project I did a year ago. It turns out it was pretty close to what my wife had in mind for the dog bed, so since we had it on hand, that's what we decided to use. The can simply has a generic American Woodmark label, so I have no idea of the actual manufacturer actually made the stain. My topcoat is actually going to be Arm-R-Seal, which is what I used over the same stain on the prior project. Would a water-based pre-stain conditioner help? Since we want it to be pretty dark (I put 4 coats of stain on the inner frame), I don't want to use anything that will seal the wood too much, keeping it from absorbing enough of the stain, and thus keeping it from turning out dark enough. I don't mind doing multiple coats though, as long as I have control over what's happening in the process. Huh?
  6. There's a bit of a story behind this that I won't go into, but I'm building a bunk bed for one of our dogs. The main part of the bunk is built as 4 tapered legs and 4 aprons, with a cleat around the inside bottom edge of all 4 aprons that matches notches that were milled out of the inside corners of the legs. I also milled a chamfer on the outside edge of each leg and beveled off the top outside corners of each leg using a chisel. The cleats will support a simple rectangular frame that was made with simple half-lap joints that will be covered in fabric, sort of like a cot. On top of that will go a dog bed that we bought at PetSmart. The inside dimensions of the bunk were based on the dimensions of the dog bed. As you can see from the photos, I've completed the construction of the bunk, and now it's time for finishing. Although the bunk was built from hard maple, we want to stain it pretty dark to go along with the other furniture in the room. After considering a number of possible stain colors, we chose a water-based stain that I happened to have on hand. Knowing that water-based finishes will raise the grain, I pre-wetted everything thing with water, and after it dried, gave it one last sanding with some 320 grit sandpaper. Moving on to staining, I started with the inner frame, since even if I botched it up, it will be covered in fabric anyway and my mistakes won't be visible. I don't have a spray system, so my plan was to just wipe on the stain. The problem is, the stain dries almost instantly on the bare wood, so it's almost impossible to keep a wet edge, and it was very hard to get an even coat of stain. I tried a trick I learned from Marc of pre-wetting the wood with water before applying the stain, which definitely helps, but I still didn't get the quality of results I'm looking for. In the end it took about 4 coats of stain to get to the desired darkness of color, and it's not nearly as even as I'd like it to be. Note that the unevenness isn't because of maple being a blotchy wood, but simply because the water-based stain dries so dang fast. As for the main part of the bunk, I haven't started staining yet, as I'm after some help/tips/suggestions/etc. to get it to go on more evenly before I start. I only get one chance at this, so I want to be sure I don't botch it up. Nothing is off the table as far as ideas go. Just tell me what works best for you. Thanks in advance! - Jay
  7. Got mine yesterday! (ordered on 11/7)
  8. Marc, is there going to be any sort of Bell Forest Products deal for the Roubo build? They could package together the necessary amounts of 4/4, 8/4, and an appropriately sized chunk of 12/4 for the end cap. Obviously shipping is an issue, but they seem to have pretty reasonable prices on maple, so combining that with a Guild discount could still result in a competitive price for the whole package, at least for some folks.
  9. That option was actually suggested to me, but since I will need to move the bench regularly I really want something integrated into the bench. Besides, jacking up one end doesn't really solve the mobility issue.
  10. Oh, and for those who have nothing but hand tools, you can always use a standard ratchet handle, or even use a brace and bit with a 3/8" square drive adapter bit. I suppose you could even adapt a Benchcrafted handle for cranking the wheels up and down.
  11. I'm trying to avoid the heavy lifting to get my bench on and off it's wheels. It's going to be backbreaking enough just to build the thing - I don't want to be having to lift it every time I need to move it. I had an epiphany on a design for a wheel lifting/extending mechanism the other morning and spent some time at Lowe's doing some head scratching and picking up a few things to see what I can prototype. Then Sunday afternoon I got in a discussion with my neighbor's dad, who also got interested in the idea, and said he can help me with it. I need to draw it all up, but the gist of it is to have on each end of the bench a 2x6 (or equivalent made from 8/4) hinged off the legs that have a pair of casters attached. This would then have a 5/8" nut attached, through which would be a 5/8" threaded rod leading up to the underside of the bench top. The top end of the rod would have a pair of nuts tightened against each other with a big washer up against the underside of the bench. The very end of the rod above the nuts would have a 15 mm 12-pt socket (the size that just happens to fit over the end of 5/8" threaded rod) attached with epoxy, JB weld, or actually welded on. This would come up through the gap between split top, but still be well below the top surface of the bench. Then all you need is a 3/8" square drive adapter for a cordless drill, stick it into the socket from the top, and raise or lower the wheels on each end. Still a lot of details to be worked out, but between the threaded rods, nuts, washers, and sockets, so far I've only got about $20 invested in the idea. As I further develop the plan I'll post drawings and pictures. Any thoughts, suggestions, or recommendations would be most appreciated.
  12. I definitely would like to see some mobility options, as my "shop" usually involves rolling everything out into the driveway.
  13. Marc, How does the Guild version of the plans differ from the stock plans from Benchcrafted? The Guild deal for the hardware from Benchcrafted comes w/o a copy of their plans, so we can't make comparisons ourselves. Perhaps one of the initial videos should cover what's different from the stock Benchcrafted plans, as well as possible variations to accommodate individual needs, budgets, and space constraints. Thanks, - Jay
  14. The best gift was my wife's reaction (and continued reaction) to the butcher block table that I built for her. As for tools, etc., I gave my wife a rather specific list, so there weren't any big surprises... Trim router 1/4 sheet sander New shop vac Rockler branding iron kit #5 jack plane And a $50 HD gift card from my wife's mom. Oh, and my nephew got me a cordless shop light.
  15. I thought I saw something like this in a catalog or on a vendor website recently, but I can't find it again... It's a router bit similar to a normal chamfering bit, except where the bearing is beveled to match the cutter, and is above instead of below the cutter. The idea is to use it like a normal pattern bit, but instead of getting a vertical cut, you get a beveled cut. And if you need to rout deeper than the depth of the bit, you can lower the bit and reference off the previously routed beveled surface. The idea is to be able to do a router bowl with angled instead of straight up and down sides. Does such a thing exist (or something close, and for a reasonable price), or am I just dreaming?