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About pdovy

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    : Chicago
  • Woodworking Interests
    arts and crafts, furniture, mid-century modern
  1. Thanks for all the options guys, this is super helpful. Need to think if I really want to drag an electrician out to hardware some fixtures for me - the panels do look like they'd be the best option. I picked up a pair of these 2ft fixtures from HD over the weekend to test out (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Plug-In-or-Direct-Wire-Power-Connection-2-ft-White-4000K-Integrated-LED-Strip-Light-with-power-cord-and-linking-cord-54263141/206028921). They work pretty well in that they aren't blinding to look at and are DIY installable for me but I think in the long run I'll wish I just had it done properly.
  2. Yep had a french drain put in, what a mess that was. The ceilings are a mix of plaster & lathe and regular drywall, so the drop ceiling tile replacement isn't an option unfortunately.
  3. I'm in the process of redoing my shop (long story, basically had to have my entire basement torn up for waterproofing issues, so starting from scratch). Looking to improve my lighting as I currently just have a handful of those cheap single-bulb fixtures. My thought was to replace these with outlets and then use the pluggable / linkable LED shop light fixtures to avoid having to cut into the ceiling or do any major electrical work. I bought some 4 ft, 5000k, 4200 lumen 2-bulb LED fixtures online and just got them into the shop last night. My ceilings are relatively low (just over 7') and when I put one up to test it's just way too bright given that it's only a foot off eye level for me. My next thought was to try some 2' single-lamp fixtures that would be more like 1000 lumens, and just potentially use more of them. I'm not sure how much spreading out the intensity will help here though - anyone else dealt with a similar situation?
  4. pdovy

    Good detail sander?

    Ah, good point. How do you feel about the delta pad on the 90? It looks similar in size to the 93, but if I'm going to plunk down the cash having normal Rotex mode would be nice.
  5. I ripped up carpet of the stairs in my basement recently and discovered a nice set of old oak steps, but they are in dire need of refinishing. I spent some time this weekend trying to get to it but realized in order to do this in any reasonable amount of time I'm going to need a good quality detail sander to hit all the corners / edges. Any recommendations? Of course, I have been eyeing the Festool RO 90 DX, but not sure I can justify the price tag - I have a serviceable 5" DeWalt RO sander already. Are there decent options between the cheapo "mouse" sanders you can pick up for $40 and the Festool? Paul
  6. Thanks guys, all did turn out well eventually. The warped pieces where short enough and the warp minor enough that it didn't effect the joinery and wasn't noticeable in the final product - I mostly just wanted to learn from my mistake so I don't have this problem in the future in some situation where it is a real headache. I did unfortunately just leave the unmilled board leaning against my wall. I've learned my lesson - my latest lumber purchase is sitting horizontal and stickered!
  7. This is absolutely beautiful! I hope to one day re-do my kitchen as well and this is a great inspiration. How did you choose to finish the cabinets? Not having worked much with multi-species projects, did you have any trouble getting the finish of the cherry components to match the exposed maple ply?
  8. Regarding not laying it out on the bench - I hadn't heard of that - should I leave it stickered? I guess it makes sense that the moisture content might become uneven if one side is open to the air and the other isn't. It was S3S but at least from my hardwood dealer that only means its fairly flat, still requires milling to be dead flat, but I only took off a little more than 1/8". I didn't pay attention to which side got the most treatment but I'll keep that in mind in the future. Given that I have to mill it anyway I'd rather buy rough lumber, but I haven't found anywhere in the Chicago area that sells that way. Thanks for the tips guys!
  9. I've had a nice piece of 4/4 cherry sitting in the shop for the past two months waiting to be made into a six-pack holder for a christmas gift. I finally got around to it this past weekend, cut up the four sides and milled them and left them flat on my bench for a few days while I futzed around making a box joint jig. Lo and behold, the longer two pieces (only 11") have a noticeable cup when laid flat - I think it's minor enough to still work, but it makes me think I'm doing something wrong. What's the best practice for keeping things stable? Should I be rough cutting the pieces and letting them sit before milling them? Cutting joinery ASAP after milling? Crossing my fingers? My shop is in a dry, heated basement and I had stored the rough board in the shop, so there shouldn't have been any moisture changes post-milling.
  10. Hey Folks, I am looking ahead to my next project and want to take on something a bit more challenging and build a morris chair. I know it's a pretty popular build for a lot of folks, so I figured I'd see what advice there was to be had. In particular, if you have built one: What plan did you use and how did you like it? I am looking at the Bow Arm Morris Chair plan from FWW (http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/56990/bow-arm-morris-chair). I have really liked the curved arms when I've seen them on the Stickley versions, and the plan itself seemed fairly straightforward and doesn't require much in the way to tools I don't already have. Is there a place to source the pegs for the adjustable back? I have no experience turning and no equipment to do it - so I need some other way to get the job done or somewhere to buy them from. Or any other challenges you ran into you'd care to share! Paul
  11. When I was taking some woodworking classes and we were ripping 8/4 material for table legs, the instructor had us set the fence for the desired width, cut a strip, take the larger piece for an edge pass on the jointer, then repeat (newly jointed edge against the fence). I didn't really think much about the rationale for this at the time, but is this really necessary for safety on a properly tuned TS? In my home shop I don't have fancy DC, so moving between the jointer and the TS requires moving the hose and DC around. It'd be much easier if I could just face and edge joint the larger piece to start, then rip everything, then move back to the jointer. Thoughts? I'm not going to sacrifice safety for convenience, but I'm wondering if this is just overkill. I am getting ready to rip up a lot of material for a bench top, so I'm going to have quite a bit of this to do!
  12. I'm outfitting my first workshop in my basement after having done my previous woodworking at a school with all the fancy tools and plenty of space to do everything. Doing it at home is a bit more difficult, I have adequate tools but no shop furniture. My next project was going to be building a workbench, a hardwood frame with a top made of three pieces of laminated 3/4" MDF. My question is, what is the best way to accurate assemble this without having an legit assembly table, or really any usable reference surface other than the top of my TS? I just finished building the outfeed table from Marc's video and I had a tough time getting things square and flat trying to assemble on the floor / sawhorses. It's good enough for catching wood, but I think I need a better system for the workbench, especially to make sure that the MDF lamination comes out as close to dead flat as possible. Is there some easy solution for a temporary reference surface? My other thought was to give up on an MDF top and make it out of hardwood that can be planed flat, and try and just do assembly on top of my TS.
  13. Thanks guys, this is an interesting discussion. I ultimately picked up a can of Danish Oil (Dark Walnut) last night, tried it out and decided that got pretty close to what I was looking for with a lot less work than a multi-step finishing process. I'm going to sock the rest of this information away and spend some time playing with some of these finishing options on my own so I can use them on a future piece. Since I have to keep up with the class schedule I just didn't have the time I needed to really work through a lot of test pieces and get comfortable with the process. This is only my first piece of fine furniture and I'm really enjoying it, so I'm sure I'll have many more pieces to finish!
  14. Alright, I did combinations of the following and am getting medioacre results: TransTint Golden Amber diluted with water at 1oz / 1qt ratio. TransTint Dark Vintage Maple diluted with water at 1oz / 1qt ratio. GF American Walnut Oil Wiping Stain GF Spiced Walnut Oil Wiping Stain I sanded my sample boards to 180, raised the grain and scuff sanded with 320 to remove the fuzzies. I then applied the dye by flooding the surface and wiping off the excess. I let that dry overnight, lightly sanded again with 320 and applied the stain with a rag and wiped off any excess. I let that dry overnight and then applied a coat of ArmRSeal Satin (the real piece will have several coats). I did get some nice colors and decided that the Dark Vintage Maple dye plus the American Walnut stain looks like the color I want. The issue is that it didn't really pop the ray flecks, it's more of an even color over the surface. Like with the bare wood, the flecks are only obvious when you view it at the right angle. Is there a particular trick to getting the contrast? I'm thinking maybe I need to wipe the stain more aggressively? Also on my sample boards unfortunately the ray flecks are smaller than those on the table top to be finished, so that could be part of the problem. I also noticed that in Mike's finish that he linked, he's applied dewaxed shellac between the dye and oil coats. What benefit does that provide? I tried without a separating layer since the FWW article I was trying to follow didn't include this step. I'd like to go back and try TripleH's finish schedule and do it on a more dramatically figured piece of QWSO but I'm under a bit of a time crunch as I need to get the first coat on tonight to have time to complete the finish before the scheduled glue up with the class.
  15. I'd definitely be interested in checking that out. I'm not looking for something super dark, but probably around the same level as what Mike had linked to in his journal above, maybe even a shade lighter. I had avoided the "mission" branded stains exactly because they looked really dark to me and I want to highlight rather than obscure the wood.