Jerry_in_SD

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Everything posted by Jerry_in_SD

  1. I don't have a tail vice. I put mine on 6" spacing. Then I decided to use those Veritas Bench Puppies. Unfortunately, the reach of the puppies needs holes on 4" centers. Thus, I loose a lot of utility from my dog holes.
  2. about a year ago I posted a question regarding what happens to a breadboard end when a film finish is applied and the core inevitably expands and shrinks with the weather. WelI got my answer. I've attached a picture of the core / breadboard joint out toward the ends of the breadboard where only screws are holding the breadboard and where the core has the maximum movement ( center 4" was glued so no issue). I 'm trying to figure out a fix. This was a thick finish of 5 coats of sprayed EnduroVAR. I'm thinking about sanding down about 2 coats and re-spraying a think coat of EnduroVAR. Any other suggestions? What could prevent this in the future?
  3. Thanks all for your response. I will take your advice and use spar varnish on the exterior. I will use EV for the interior. i was favoring the EV as I can spray it and complete 3 coats in one day. Very user friendly finish. I've used EV on our kitchen table top and holds up against water and heavy use quite well.
  4. I am building a new entry door (slab) out of African Mahogany. Typically entry doors have a exterior grade SPAR varnish for the exterior to deal with the elements. I live in Southern California and my entry way is recessed in such a way that neither sun nor rain hits my door. I did a sample with EnduroVAR and like the look. Has almost a oil like look given the amber tone they give EnduroVAR. Can anyone suggest why using EnduroVAR for my Entry door is a bad idea? If this door had to deal with the re is no question I would go with spar varnish. Thanks.
  5. Thanks. I'll start easy... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks all. I'm going to use a circular saw with edge guide it cut the bevel after glue up. The inexpensive Lockart drilling guides align to the door face not edge so bevel is no factor. I'll make a mortising guide that is aligned to the face as well for the latch and deadbolt trim plates Thanks for the suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I'm building a new entry door for the house. Using construction method used by Norm in a NYW episode. I'm building a new slab versus pre- hung. Figure since I have the existing door as a template it would be easiest. Anyway, Norm does not bevel the edge of the lockset (or latch) stile but my existing door has about a 2 degree bevel. Most entry door builds I've seen include the bevel since the door is 1 3/4 thick. I was wondering if anyone had door building experience and could comment on the best time to add the bevel. Seems like it would be easiest to run the stile through the table saw prior to glue up. I would create shims to aid in clamping to offset the bevel at glue up. I'm wondering how much grief I would give myself when trying to mortise the lockset whenever it's time. Instructions for installing slabs on line say to use a portable planer or handplane to trim bevel on finished door. I would use a handplane in this case. Anyone with door building experience I would appreciate your advice. Final milling, mortising, and glue up next weekend. Thanks. PS. Would kill for a Domino XL for this project.
  8. Thanks, I missed the YouTube comment. Still a bit of a mystery to me. The joints looked pretty tight for not being glued all the way. I would expect the joint to gap at some point. Guess that is why they make the big bucks and I hack in my garage....
  9. I was watching a Doucette and Wolfe video where they wrap the solid wood top of this chest with a mitered hardwood frame. I was wondering how they deal with wood movement doing that. I always understood that wrapping a hardwood panel in hardwood was a no no and would subject that panel to split. Even though they only wrap three sides, I would think that the glued on frame could still cause the panel to split. Is there something I don't understand here? http://youtu.be/ZzXwmqxMbxs
  10. I was cleaning out a cabinet and found a finishing sander that takes maybe 1/4 sheets. Has no provisions for dust collection. I must have had this for 25 years. My finishing schedule includes using a ROS to 180 or 220 but my last step is always hand sand at final grit. Just wondering if anyone uses a finishing sander? I guess I should sell this.
  11. Having built two kitchens in the last 3 years, here are my observations. - building cabinets is probably on the easy side as far as woodworking is concerned. Building boxes is straightforward and face frames are easy using pocket hole jig. Go frameless and you can even skip this step. - spend time in planning. Draw up your plans carefully by hand or use a tool like sketchup. Have it built in your head first before buying or cutting material. - saving money depends on what you do. If you are duplicating what you could buy from a Home Depot or IKEA, you probably will cost about the same but you will probably end up with higher quality doing it yourself using better materials. If you are building very unique cabinets then you can save a bundle as a high end cabinet shop will be pricy. My first kitchen was in Greene & Greene style ( look for Greene & Greene kitchen in the Project Showcase section). My second was basic (shaker stile frame and panel doors). - have a finishing plan. Use prefinished ply for the boxes so you don't have to deal with that part. There is a lot of wiping for doors and drawers so consider a spray system. Or outsource to a finisher. - if you go with stone countertop and tile backsplash, that could be expensive, not counting if you buy all new appliances. - do a lot,of reading and research. There are lots of ways to construct boxes. Some are overkill IMHO. - consider installation. It can be a bit tricky with uneven floors and out of square and out of plumb walls (kind of a given). Hire out for installation if your not comfortable. - don't demo existing kitchen until all cabinetry is done and your ready for install. Takes pressure off the fabrication phase. Bottom line. Go for it. Take your time and have flexible schedule. It is fun and you'll learn a boatload.
  12. No one mentioned Steve Jobs. Seems that he was as concerned about what was unseen as what was seen. I agree with many of the posts in that the statement is too broad to be applied universally. It depends on the situation. Finishing the back of a heirloom piece is one thing, finishing the back of a kitchen cabinet is another. Both can be be done with master craftsmanship. Professionalism is more how you approach things rather then the execution.
  13. Your going to love that jig. I have used it a lot. Since I can't afford or justify a Domino, this is the next best thing, IMHO. Look around for a smaller countersink bit. Mine fit fine.
  14. I agree. Just looked again at my BLUM documentation on H vs non H series. Nothing to do with face frame or frameless. H series seems to be made a little heavier duty and can be used with 3/4" thick drawers.
  15. My wife still refers to my saw as a stop saw! I've stopped correcting her...as it was her that encouraged me to get one in the first place.
  16. From the BLUM documentation I have for 563 series, it is a 3mm (1/8") set back of the runner from the front of the cabinet. You must have a different model of slides. The goal of course is to have the front of the box flush with the front of the cabinet ( for overlay false fronts). If you have a test drawer already, I would just measure the distance from the front of the drawer box to the front of the cabinet, offset your runner my that much and call it a day. I assume you have the drawer runners properly installed with the front of the runner butted up against the front of the drawer box. I installed a bunch of BLUM in my kitchen however they were inset drawers but the same concepts apply except the offset is from the inside of the face frame. BTW, I don't think the rockler jig is going to help you solve offset problem. For a lower cost solution to the rockler jig, just use a piece of scrap ply to use as a spacer from the bottom of the cabinet. If I have a stack of drawers to put in, I start at the top and cut the same spacer down as I install the lower drawer runners. Good luck.
  17. Thanks. Chemistry was never my favorite which is why I became an electrical engineer not a chemIcal.
  18. My understanding was that solvent based finishes like lacquer and shellac can be thinned unlimited by their respective solvent. I also understood that water based is a misnomer as these finishes are actually waterborne not water based. The primary solvent is organics like glycol ether and the water or merely a carrier. For that reason, thinning by water is usually limited to about 10%. Latex paint falls into this category. The only water based I can cite is that paint kids use - can be reactivated, meaning washed, by water. I could be wrong (not the first time) but that was what I understood.
  19. Check out the pictures in this project showcase for a small dining table. Used that recipie on African Mahogany. I did note you are talking Genuine Mahogany. Darrell Peart who recommended this mix builds Greene & Greene from African Mahogany as do I. So we are a little disconnected on this one.
  20. We had our kitchen refaced many years ago which involved application of PSA veneer to face frames and new doors and drawers. It was very acceptable and a lot less than a new kitchen. It is an option if you don't want to re layout the kitchen. This was done before I took up wood working and I eventually did a refacing job to two different bathrooms and realized how simple it is and how much I could have saved on the original kitchen refacing had I done it myself. However, after 14 years, the kitchen really did need to be replaced. At that point, I ripped out the old and built a new kitchen using the WW skills acquired over the years.
  21. When I bought my PCS Sawstop from Rockler a few years back, they happened to have a PCS in stock on a pallet but the price would have been the same had they had to order it. If ordered, I would pick up from the store anyway. I rented a truck with lift gate and a pallet jack to get it home.
  22. Nicely done. I'm going now to find some plastic for my glasses.
  23. Looks good and very detailed. i use sketchUp as well except in a different manner. I use it mainly to work out proportions and maybe work out some exact dimensions. All the detail I leave off like joinery and edge detail and exact dimensions where I'm going to get those from the workpiece anyway. I guess it means I only use it enough to answer some key questions. It would be and interesting poll to see how woodworkers use sketchUp. I may be in the minority.
  24. I spray Enduro-Var but have used a foam brush on small pieces where breaking out the sprayer is too much work. Mike above said it best. Don't overthink and smooth light stokes.
  25. Wow! Nice. Someday I need to try a live edge project. I like the metal base. Brings focus to the beauty of the top.