Tkf530

Members
  • Content Count

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About Tkf530

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Woodworking Interests
    Finishing

Recent Profile Visitors

731 profile views
  1. Talk about real. http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=2Eb3sPtTesQ
  2. CAB acrylic lacquer or a waterborne conversion varnish if you don't want the finish to yellow.
  3. Tkf530

    Last step!

    I'm not sure what you mean by authentic? The table is veneered likely over particle board or even poplar and given a solid wood edge. Think of it as saving the forest. Your limited with solid wood because of wood movement. There's a lot of toner and glaze on here that I can't even tell what veneer that it. Now you can't use a water based finish over lin seed oil (so they say) without a barrier coat which to the average consumer is shellac. Did the stain dry properly over the oil? Normally lin seed oil will have adhesion problems without letting it probably dry and cure. I'd also recommend a satin top coat because a high sheen will show scratches more in refinishing.
  4. Make the finish crack instead of changing he actually integrity of work piece. Depending on your finish there's lacquer based "crackle lacquer" and then there's hide glue which is compatible with most finishes. Or chisel from the endgrain slowly downwards.
  5. Apply a black dye and sand most of it. Then apply a red stain. The black will stay in the grain and darken the red a bit. The only problem is now sanding through the veneer.
  6. Coarse steel wool is the best for spindles. A card scraper and even steel wool will work for the flat surfaces. Your best bet is looking for a gel stripper and not a liquid stripper.
  7. Yes, it'll need to be sanded down to bare wood if you want it refinished it. You'll probably want to strip it instead of sanding, much faster but more toxic. :/ I'm sure the is some nitro lacquer on there and some toner, lots if toner.
  8. NGR, when wiped on will show rag marks when you stop. It's best when sprayed to produce an even colour. I would like to know if using a condition will help even out the color with NGR. And wear gloves with a NGR lol. Won't come off for a while.
  9. Once the contamination is in the wood, it's in the wood. Soaking it in the strongest solvent you can find won't help your troubles. You can either try mixng another batch of shellac to seal the fisheye as that's what some finishers like Bob Flexner recommends or testing to see if the anti-fisheye additive will work with shellac.
  10. Shellac isn't known to fisheye or crater as much as modern day finishes but is often the solution as a barrier coat with a 2 lbs cut. Nonetheless, you've for a contamination problem on your hands. Have you perhaps lubed any of your machines recently? Sprayed some WD 40 in your garage, wax you plane with the wrong wax? Retrace your steps.
  11. The amount of retarder needed with the perfect speed rate to wipe on a spray finish is just inoperable. You won't be too happy with the results. Look into KEM Aqua 'lacquer' or CAB Acrylic lacquer.
  12. I do believe the wood in this photo is douglous fir, the heart wood being the darker too and the sap being the lighter pieces. Perhaps taking a q tip wrapped in sandpaper at the end to get into those small details. Lol. Worse comes to worst, sandblast it.
  13. Oil it. The wood going to change color, but that's just nature.
  14. At the last resort you can heat up the gun at the sink with warm water and putting the can of finish (closed) in a pot filled with water. This will allow the finish to flow better, mind you the finish will reduce viscosity. So if you're spraying vertical surfaces watch out. After spraying bring it in the garage if you can. Don't let it sit in the snow. Do a test first though.