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Everything posted by NSBrad

  1. I stayed away from most of the black friday stuff today. The ads for the big store pretty much had nothing exciting. Little bit less margin for them to play with. Only big store things I bought were four more of the 12" JBL subwoofers from BestBuy that I've been using in projects. They did the $30 each sale on them again starting last weekend on line. So I just ordered them. I wasn't going to fight the store for them. I did go by Woodworker's Source though today for their sale. They had all lumber at least 25% off so I went to get the wood for my next project. While there I ended up picking up some clamps too. They had the 2 pack of 12" Jet parallel clamps for $41 so I grabbed 2 boxes of them. Unfortunately they had already sold out of the 24" and 30" ones or I would have bought some more.
  2. Well, when you get the bug again ask away. I'm getting deeper into it. I'm a programmer and actually just started talking to major hardware manufacturer about adding support for some of the stuff we're doing to their forthcoming product. So I'm deep in the rabbit hole now. I might actually be the Mad Hatter. Yes, the brown note was busted but you can still cause issues with it. I have a couple demo scenes, like the server room scene in Pulse, that actually make me a little woozy from the way the pressurize my room. It's crazy. It hits me just right and I'd probably throw up if I did it long enough. I think it's hitting my equilibrium since the sensation starts to feel like if I'm riding backwards or reading in a car.
  3. No offense but when I throw that party I'm not inviting any of you guys. I work next to ASU so I'll load up a party bus with coeds. It'll still annoy the neighbors. I'd love to move to a little bit more remote location. Even if it's just the very outer edge of Phoenix that hasn't been developed yet. I've always wanted a compound where I could have a house, nice home theater, shop, and like a 6 car garage. At some point I might try to talk work into letting me work remote, at least part time, and look into moving further out or relocating to a smaller town. Fortunately the type of work I do lends itself nicely to working remotely.
  4. Figured I'd give an update on how I've gone crazy in the last year. I'm just about finished with the attached. It's hard to tell in the picture but it's four 15" subs with four Earthquake SLAP (passive radiator) firing down. That's going to be the new console table for the back of my couch to give VNF subs for nice mid-bass and chest slam. The picture is of a quick test fit I did last night for the 2 boxes on the stand and the table top. I had to adjust the stands slightly after it for where the cross supports are in relation to the SLAPs and then I finished painting it. The table top is still being finished also. I wanted to get the quick fitting before I put on the next coat last night. Since posting about the 24" I decided to go with the purple curly maple as the room's theme. So far I've also also build a rack for the amps and speaker stands for the rear surrounds to match. I've been happy with the way it's all turned out so far. And @drzaius, if you like ULF you have to do some sort of transducer over subs. Game changer. Crowsons are the easy route but they're fairly expense. What I ended up doing for it and would highly recommend is building a BOSS. Basically you build a small riser that your seating sits on and then embed the cheap 12" JBL subs open baffle in it. I can feel down to 4 hz with mine. It's awesome. Now's a great time to do it too (or at least get the drivers for it) since Best Buy has the JBLs on sale for $29 for Black Friday. The pricing is already up for orders. I snagged another 4 of them just to have with them being so cheap. If there's interest in it I can go into more detail about it and Bass EQ (BEQ) since they go hand in hand. I don't want to go too far off topic down that rabbit hole though unless someone is interested in building one. It's not fine woodworking but it is woodworking since you're using plywood and other materials.
  5. Thanks everyone! That's what I was thinking of doing. I have until the 5th to respond. So I was going to take a couple days to not rant at the HOA rep and gather up any other ideas. I had been ignoring everything with my neighbor. I was getting amused by it. Like we weekend before last I went out side to sand for maybe 5 minutes. It was only to sand off one of the coats of black dye that I was doing on some curly maple strips. It was 2 strips of 1.5"x1.5"x46", so you can guess how long that too. In that time she put some really bad pop music blasting to try to "fight" me. It was almost loud enough to hear over the random orbit. But I couldn't hear it, so it wasn't bugging me. I did my thing and then slipped out of the house to go meet a friend. She still had it blasting as I drove off. Hopefully she annoyed other neighbors with it but I wasn't home to hear. I'm thinking of it. I'm renting the place I'm in. I sold my house about a year ago and have been holding off buying. Phoenix is in a huge bubble again and prices are ridiculous right now. I was going to renew for another year in January but I might just commit for 3 or 6 months and start looking around for a new place. I wish that's what it was like here. Almost all new development in like the list 20-30 years has been HOA. You have to hit an older neighborhoods to not have one. It's something I'm definitely going to look for again in my next place though. The last house I bought was purposely not in one. I didn't worry about it when renting because I was thinking it was going to be short term but the market has been so crazy. The bubble has to burst again before long here. Like my house has a zestimate of $500k and I would pay maybe $300k for it with the build quality, fit and finish, and lot side that it has. 2 houses down sold for $510 in September. They did maybe a $50k remodel on it looking at the pictures (it'll all flipper lipstick on a pig) and just relisted it for $715k. I need to talk to them about who their drug deal is because they're getting the really good stuff.
  6. I've been thinking other nefarious stuff too that can be launched over. Or I have a 24" sub and I'm finishing the build on the boxes for four 15" subs. I can pull all of them outside and hit them with ULF sound patterns. They'll feel it but won't be able to hear it or prove where it comes from.
  7. I need to get a copy of the latest HOA rules to see what the rule is. The letter had it listed under a general bothering your neighbors wording. The city rules are fairly lax with noise restrictions but do have concrete rules for construction that limit what hours it can be done at. They vary depending on time of year but the earliest end time is either 5 or 5:30 pm. I know I'm always done before then because my patio has poor lighting so dusk is my time limit.
  8. Has anyone ever had to deal with an HOA over a noise complaint? Looking for any tips on how to handle them. I got an HOA violation letter that a neighbor complained about noise from a saw running all weekend every weekend. To start off, the claim isn't even true. I've been using a saw very little, it's been mostly my orbital sander and my router. It's also only been about 1-4 pm. I never do anything before lunch and I've had to be someplace at about 5 for the last month. So they're exaggerating a bit. What's really causing the situation is that I've been working out on my back patio since the weather in Arizona got nice. I have a large covered patio that's been nice to be out on. The problem is that my neighbor has a TV out on his patio and him and his wife live out on it. If they're home, they're outside. I can hear the TV or them talking constantly out there. So they're, mainly the wife, is being a pain. She's been acting immature the last few weekends with it by yelling stupid junk over the fence, blasting music, firing an airhorn, etc. with never once coming over and actually talking like an adult. So I'm trying to figure out how best to respond, if I even should, now. I'm probably going to set-up shop in my garage now. I have a 2 bay and only park one car inside. I just want to make sure it doesn't become a continuing headache. Then I'll get my revenge once things die down.
  9. Always need more! I'd love to build a 2nd 24" to really take care of ULF. This isn't the only sub in the room. I already had dual Monolith 12s running. The RF-7 III fronts also have dual 10s in each but I have those crossed at 60hz after measuring the room in REW. Since the 24" is running well now I was thinking earlier of reconfiguring the ports on the 12 to lose a big of the low but bump up the mid bass with them. With how well the cabinet came out too I have been thinking maybe I need to build more too. I do have a few sheets of baltic birch in the garage already that are just sitting there collecting dust. I was toying with the idea of replacing my tv stand with a custom one that holds a 15" or 18" on each side with an equipment rack integrated in the center of them for some of the equipment and a side module for stuff like the amps. I might start toying with layout ideas in sketchup.
  10. That was honestly my other big reason. I love it freshly cut but a few years down the road...
  11. Thanks! Originally I was thinking of using purpleheart but I really wanted a figured wood for it. So I experimented to come up with a dye for it. It was 4 layers of black dye sanded off to get the curls with the last one not sanded down all the way. I brought it to a light gray/smoke color. The purple was then applied over it to get the darker purple that I imagined. The purple transtint alone was way too bright on my test piece for what I had in mind. I wanted something unique for that driver and I think I got it with purple curly.
  12. I wanted to give an update. I finally got the driver delivered last Thursday. Friday night was putting it in the box and then the weekend was spent getting it dialed in. Everything sounds amazing with it. The bass at the beginning of Edge of Tomorrow blew me away last night. I ended up going with the double sided foam tape suggestion. It looks like it's going to do the trick. So far it's holding solidly and doesn't look like it's going to move on me. Thanks again for the great out of the box suggestion. Overall I'm super happy with the way the project turned out. It turned out almost exactly the way I envisioned it.
  13. From the reviews and talking to people the SI drivers are supposed to be amazing. It'll pretty much be giving me full ULF. I'm going to ease into the setup of it to make sure I don't hurt anything. I can't wait though. Something like the server room scene in Pulse is going to warp space-time. I'm actually a little worried that it might break something in the house. At least I'm renting if this house isn't well built.
  14. No Beer on the electronics. They get they're own table I'm putting an HS-24 MKIII from Sound Integrity in it and using a Crown xls 2502 for the amp. I can't wait. I heard from the owner this morning that they finished my driver this morning and they were prepping to ship it. So I should have it next week since it's going from NC to AZ.
  15. Great idea! I'm really glad I asked now since I never would have thought of it. I'm going to give this a try first since it's easily undone with no damage if I don't like it in practice. I like DerekMPBS keyhole slot idea too as a fallback. I have a couple ideas in my head on how I'd implement them for it. Thanks guys!
  16. No worries about hyjacking, I like hearing about what other guys did for their subs. I was going to make dual vented 18s originally but decided to for the single SI HS-24" instead. It has the output of 3 of their 18s and was cheaper then buying the 2 18s. I ended up going sealed with it over vented because it needs about a 20 cf box vented. I don't have room for the design needed for it. Minimizing port noise gets "fun" too with how much air it's moving. So I went with a sealed box that's about 2'x'3 and 27" tall. Since it's about the size of an end table I decided to make a table top for it just for looks. I made a nice looking curly maple top that I dyed to make the curls pop.
  17. Thanks, it sounds screws are the way to go. I don't plan to try to lift it by the table top but even without that concern I wasn't real crazy over using figures 8s. It's most likely only going to be moved by a hand truck. I'm having enough trouble pickup it up to move around due to the bulk now without the sub in it. It's for a 24" driver. So once it's in place the total weight is going to be a bit north of 200 pounds. It's a big boy.
  18. I need some advice on attaching a table top to a subwoofer. I'm building a sealed sub cabinet and decided to make a table top for it due to its size to make it a little bit more like an end table. So I built the box and the table top and now I'm wondering about the best way to attache it. My initial thought was to screw in on from inside the box using a slightly oversized hole. Then use a silicon calk when I screw it in. The other idea was figure 8s if I could find them in the correct size since I have about a 1.5" overhang on the front and two sides. The downside here is that since it's on the outside that the hardware would be visible. Any thoughts or suggestions? BTW, I am in Phoenix so I'm at least lucky for humidity swings.
  19. Thanks. I wasn't sure if simple heat would do it. Sounds like my looflighter might do the trick. Just gotta be careful of fire since it does get hot. ☺️ Thanks!
  20. Sorry, just heard the Weezer song and couldn't resist when I first title this Unglued. And no, I'm not making a bad parody. At least not yet. I do know how to play it though on my bass. So what I really got going on is that I'm making a storage unit out of birch plywood and screwed up joint the other night. Unfortunately I didn't realize it until after I glued up that section. So I'm look at how I can fix it. It's not something I can redesign around like I'd usually try since it's connecting to another item. Is there a way to simply unglue the joint to separate the two pieces? They're together pretty solidly at this point and it's a 20" long joint if that makes a difference in doing it. My first though was to just try to horizontally cut it, sand it smooth, and then redo it correctly. I'm not sure if that's a good solution though. Plus I have to figure out how to cut it. Not sure how to do that easily and cleanly. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  21. The racking has been a big concern. I'm not married to that design yet. I just liked the look of it when going through coffee tables looking for inspiration. Sounds like I should probably rethink doing that or at least modify it enough so that it's going to be stable.
  22. I'm thinking of building a coffee table similar in design to the attached picture. It's pretty simple, basically 3 boxes intertwined. I was going to run the grain vertical so that movement shouldn't be an issue. I was also thinking of mitering the joints to give a more seamless look. Do I need to be concerned with strength though doing that? The table top will have stuff on it at times. Worst case is probably someone trying to sit on it. I'm also looking for any recommendation the best way to attach the top box to the leg boxes since it's essentially hanging from them. Would glue with possibly some screws hidden on the bottom be sufficient or should I be looking at another method?
  23. I wanted to post a concept drawing but I was Vegas for the weekend and wanted to post last night so that I hopefully had a couple answers when I got home. Now that I'm home, here's a quick sketch up of it. The sizing and self locations are just thrown in for concept. They're not in final locations at all. I didn't even think of the verticals flexing side to side to bow. I was mainly concerned about the shelf strength. How much will it actually happen though? Seems like everything I see for bookcases are always a single board.
  24. Thanks, I think you covered everything. I was already planning the cross piece under the back of the fixed shelves for wall attachment and to help stiffen them. So I think I'm on the right track with it. Thanks for the qtip tip on the holes. I'll need to use it. I'm staining it espresso to match the cabinets.
  25. Hi guys, I'm working on building out shelving in my pantry and have a couple questions. So these are only semi-fine working questions. The pantry is pretty big, about 12'x6' with the door on the 12' wall. So I was going to make two rows of shelving about 8' long (a freezer is going in opposite the door. Conceptually I'm looking at it as big bookshelves. I was going to do 4 vertical dividers with a couple fixed shelves and movable shelves for the 3 shelving sections. I was also going to put a few cross pieces on the back between the verticals to use to anchor it to the wall (the one side piece will be anchored too). My plan is to use edge banded 3/4" hardwood plywood for it. A couple questions on this: For the side of the pieces that are going to be attached to the wall, should I finish them? It seems like no, but I want to make sure that it's not going to cause a problem. For the adjustable shelves pinholes, what's the best finishing practice for them? Should I finish the board, then drill them or drill first? Is there anything that should be done to protect the inside of the holes? Since I am using adjustable shelves, should the center 2 dividers be 2 boards instead of just one. That way the shelf pin holes for each side aren't going into the same board. I'm not sure if there's a strength issue here. Finally, for now at least , how strong are dado joints for weight? For the fixed shelves I was planning on attaching them using a 1/4" or 1/3" dado. For most of them I have no concern. But for one of the sections I was thinking of building a wine rack above the bottom fixed shelf. What I have in mind would hold up to 24 bottles. So that could get a bit heavy and really messy if it broke. Just want to make sure there's not something else I need to do for the joinery. I've already checked the sag calculator for the span and it's ok. Thanks, Brad