Nyles

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Everything posted by Nyles

  1. I had a visit from the sharpening faerie Saturday (aka amazon). spent some time making a small bench top sharpening station and some strops. plan on spending tomorrow sharpening anything I can get my hands on. I think hence forth in this house Presidents Day shall no longer be known as Presidents Day but rather as sharpening day.
  2. Nyles

    Marking Gauge

    Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will definitely look at some other options before shelling out ny hard earned cash!
  3. Have always had ryobi stuff and for the most part been happy. Biggest differences I ever saw between higher end drills were in the battery life. However the batteries were cheap so it was no biggie to always have a few so one could be charging. I used this stuff for work and home and being an electrician for 10 years these ryobi drills saw thier fair share of use and abuse. I think I went through two of them in that time and currently am on my third. However this last one finally has started giving me signs that its giving up the ghost and most of my current nicad batteries have seen better days. Mention to my girlfriend a few months or so ago that I wanted to pick up a new drill and check out the lithium ion stuff but that I didnt want to go with ryobi this go round cause their lithium ion stuff didnt feel well made like thier older blue and orange stuff. She suprised me a last month with a new hitachi drill which seems a bit nicer than the newer ryobi stuff and probably is fairly comparable in build quality to the older ryobi stuff and its lithium ion. The little sucker seemed lonely so I picked up a companion for him today at lowes. Guess I have a reason to build a nice charging/drill station now.
  4. Nyles

    Marking Gauge

    Greetings, I have been wanting to pick up a marking gauge to use for layout and to help with tear out. However i just have never pulled the trigger on purchasing one yet. I see that woodcraft has this one for sale and appears to be what i am after as far as a cutting one vs scribing one (knife vs pin). https://www.woodcraft.com/products/crown-rosewood-and-brass-cutting-gauge-143w Anyone have any insight as to the performance of this little guy? or have a better suggestion? I also saw this other one on the site, wasn't sure if this one was better? This ones made in china and the other is made in england? Very few reviews on both on the site.... https://www.woodcraft.com/products/rosewood-cutting-gauge Looking to pull the trigger next week, so any insight is appreciated.
  5. I purchased a dedicated oil pan with a spout from the automotive store and I set the blade in there and then pour a little simple green cleaner from the dollar store in there and let it sit for 10 minutes and then I use a dedicated acid brush and a dedicated green scrubbie to clean the blade. I then pour the simple green cleaner back into its original container using the spout in the oil pan and I air dry the blade with the compressor and then spray it lightly with a dry lubricant and wipe it down. I leave the acid brush and scrubbie in the bottom of the oil pan for storage and so they dont get used for anything else. The oil pan will accommodate my 10" & 12" blades just fine and is deep enough to soak several blades at once. I generally clean after each large project or on an as needed basis if I am just doing small projects.
  6. Subscribed! Thanks for pointing this guys channel out I don't think i would have ever found it otherwise.
  7. Hey Klappco. I live in Spokane and work in Liberty Lake. I think there are 1 or 2 others of us from this area. We should co-ordinate a meetup sometime, schedules permitting of course!
  8. I purchased some 8' 1x4 smart trim and use two clamps. It's an mdf product and I pull them out when I need to rip a piece of ply with a circular saw. Its straight, cheap, and if it gets beat up I just replace it and then cut the beat up piece into smaller sections and use it for other projects such as sacrificial fences for other tools.
  9. Thanks shaneymack! Had to step out of the shop for the evening but will check that out tomorrow. Super excited to use it asap!
  10. Just couldn't handle it any longer and had to take the plunge. A picture of my old stock miter gauge a picture of my new after market one... Quick setup question. When setting this up how close do I want the edge of the fence to the blade? The manual doesn't really specify a distance, only to give enough clearance? I am assuming as close as possible with making sure the blade while moving cant make any contact with the aluminum fence? This would be for a left miter slot setup if that matters... Thanks again!
  11. Thanks for the feedback guys! Eric, I saw that blade as well but its not a thin kerf? also i dont for see working any exotic materials in the near future and again i rarely do anything thicker than 4/4 stock. I almost always back my work piece when cutting with something sacrificial when i am worried about any tear out on my cross cuts. would you suggest forgoing the thin kerf and getting the 40T woodworker II or getting the 48T woodworker II thin kerf? i didnt see a 40T thin kerf on the woodcraft site. Will 8 teeth really make that much of a difference on my rips? im always mindfull of my feeding speed when making rips on my table saw. i know ideally I would be better suited to get 2 blades but i have 3 kids and a very tight budget and its xmas time, so i am trying to find something nicer then what i have that will give me a happy medium/dual purpose for the time being. Ideally for my birthday in a few months ill pick up a ripping blade and have both... thanks again for all the feedback!
  12. Greetings, I was hoping to get some insight/thoughts opinions on a purchase i plan to make soon. I am eyeballing a Forrest Woodworker II thin kerf blade for my tablesaw. It's a craftsman 10" cabinet saw, pry about 10 years old. Don't know the motor size off hand but i am going to say its on the smaller side so was looking at the thin kerf blades. I noticed there appears to be a 2 different woodworker II options, a 10" 40 tooth flat grind and a 10" 48 tooth blade. I am looking for suggestions on which one I should pick up. This would be my go to blade for ripping and cross cuts on the table saw. My workflow is to rip to width on the table saw and then to generally cut to rough length on my compound miter saw then make all my final cross cuts on my table saw sled. Most stock i work with is 4/4 domestics and i don't see my self working with 8/8 very often for the type of projects i usually under take. I do occasionally use plywood for projects so I'd like to find something that works for that as well. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated as far as which one of these fine blades i should lean towards.... i am personally leaning towards the 48 tooth? Currently I am using a Freud Diablo blade, i don't recall the tooth count but its a combo blade so this would be a definite upgrade for me. thank you! http://www.woodcraft.com/product/151314/forrest-woodworker-ii-saw-blade-10-x-48-tooth-thin-kerf.aspx http://www.woodcraft.com/product/153696/forrest-ww10401100-woodworker-ii-10-40t-1-grind-thin-kerf.aspx
  13. Thanks guys, you are to kind. A torii (鳥居 ?, literally bird abode, /ˈtɔəri.iː/) is a traditional Japanese gate most commonly found at the entrance of or within a Shinto shrine, where it symbolically marks the transition from the profane to the sacred (see sacred-profane dichotomy).
  14. Greetings, Havnt spent almost any time in my shop the last few years after my divorce but wanted to make something special from the heart for a special person in my life, my sensei of 17 years. Woodworking and martial arts are two of my biggest passions so thought id make something he couldnt buy. It also gave me a chance to touch the tools again and start to get back in the groove of woodworking. It's made of simple hemlock with dowl joinery for some extra strength. Spray painted with a rattle can with 3 really light coats. Torii are traditionally red with a black roof and I was afraid stain would be hard to get a good color from so I didnt want to use nice wood since I knew I would not be staining. To come up with the design I printed a sketchup out from a wiki page about torii's and then converted those measurements to achieve the size I was after while attempting to keep the aspect ratio more or less the same. There are many different kinds of torii, I chose this one for its simplicity. It didnt turn out perfect but I think it did turn out ok. Especially considering hes a hard person to shop for and I think he will appreciate that its unique. I have to say it was nice to be in the shop again and now that the tools are calibrated I think ill start working on a slightly bigger nicer project. Just threw it up in the shop wall for a couple of quick pictures with the phone so please excuse if its not level on the wall or the pictures dont do it justice...
  15. Could always try the old beer can wifi antenna booster ;-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUYGb2JtQYA
  16. if you run the wiring in a parallel installation you in effect are following the route of the wiring you are trying to minimize exposure to. IE low voltage to high voltage. So it would look like this in a parallel wiring = one - being the low voltage and one - the line voltage. If you ran them perpendicular it would look like this + again one - being the line voltage wiring and one - being the low voltage. You can see you have much less exposure, surface area, what ever you want to call it. There by limiting the amount of noise the line voltage could create on the low voltage. As a general rule of thumb if your a few feet away in your wiring you should be fine even with out conduit. If your running conduit having the conduit side by side should not cause issues, if your worried about it separate the conduit a little in the trench. To be honest most of the low voltage wiring these days has such good shielding you pry wont see any issues even if you just ran the two side by side. Most of the problems I have seen are on older pre existing wiring in a home. On the off chance your using sensitive equipment or just want the best performance or to be as safe as possible as far as avoiding problems then follow the advice youve been reading here about separating the two. I would not suggest sticking it in the same conduit. The conduit just adds a physical layer of shielding, nothing more. Couple that with good wiring practices and you shouldnt have any issues. For what ever its worth and to whom ever cares conduit is your friend. When you buy a home before you landscape the yard stick a run of conduit in. You dont even need to hook it upto anything just run it out in the yard mark it some how and terminate the run up against the house near the panel. Youll save yourself headache, time and money. Same goes before you build that out building, barn, or garage. If you need 1 run of conduit run 2 or upsize the one run several sizes. Conduit is cheap, real cheap compared to digging up sod, breaking out concreate, trenching, replacing existing conduit that was to small etc. Its a long term cheap investment that could save hundreds if not thousands down the road. So the next home you build, buy, or have a home built tell the contractor you want that done, Itll be pennies on the dollar and I think most people who have done it and had to use it will tell you it was a well worth while investment. Nyles
  17. i usually use a plastic grocery bag or my the sandwich bag from my sandwich (after i eat it of course). The string through the conduit technique works wonderfully. I agree with Tom and Aerofly. Aerofly hit it spot on with his assessment in my opinion. i would like to point out if you do the conduit/pipe thing for the future PLEASE make 2 runs of pipe. 1 for the low voltage (phone, internet, cable,speakers etc) the other for your line voltage (or 3 way switch) Its generally frowned up to stick low voltage and high voltage stuff in the same enclosure or conduit. Possible safety issue as well as performance issue. Safety wise they dont want line power accidently going on a wire not rated for that kind of voltage or ampacity (which cat 5 is not) and performance wise you dont want to end up with interference or poor performance from issues created from the line voltage wires. Nyles
  18. The GFI could cause issues with nuisance tripping. They are also very expensive for a 220v gfi. Theyre even more expensive to get the the class b GFI that are rated for these kinds of tasks. The only reason i know and even bring this up is because early in my career I installed a pre-fabed heating tape on a guys roof and we constantly had problems with the GFI tripping. After switching to the more expensive class b GFI no issues. The class a GFI devices are rated to trip at if i recall 3 milli amps and the class b devices are rated at 10 milli amps (or close to it) the problem with the lower mili amps GFI is the resistance in the heating process. The GFI measures input and output of its current and if it deviates more than the 3 milli amps or so it will nuisance trip. Not that i dont want you to be safe, I just dont want to see you have a headache either. I always encourage the use of GFI outlets around water, however I will point out they dont require a GFI circuit for a new home to have an electric water heater and if they thought there was an issue or reason they would. OF course they also arnt modifying their brand new electric water heater either. HOPEFULLY you can get by with a class a GFI (class a is your typical GFI rating) but id be prepared to get a class b if needed if your heart set on the GFI protection. For grins and giggles price both, and no you wont be able to get a class b GFI at your hardware store more than likely youll have to goto an electrical supply house and they may even have to order it for you. I think youd be best served by making sure the grounding is correct, the wiring is correct, and making sure the shell, frame, and tank are all bonded. You can check this by doing a simple continuity test between something thats properly grounded and alternating the testing probe between the shell, frame, and tank as well as anything else you want to check while maintaining the other probe on the ground you are using. I would also suggest running a slightly larger grounding wire #6 copper should suffice. if you do ground rods make sure they are flush to the earth, 6' or more apart from each other, driven straight into the ground. One ground rod would honestly more than suffice. Not that theyre expensive, but they are back breaking to drive into the ground. I think if you hook it upto a 110v outlet it wouldnt work and I agree If it does work it pry wont work well or for long and certainly not efficiently. If you have any other questions shoot me an email or pm. Nyles
  19. Couple of questions. You say he put the circuit on a 50amp fuse? Does your house main panel use fuses? Or did he put it on a 50amp breaker? Is the location of the 50amp outlet in a detached building or garage? Or is the building or area attached or part of the main home? Ultimately it sounds like you just need to remove the 50amp outlet he installed and replace that with a small sub panel. Then off that sub panel install an appropriate 30 or 50 amp plug on an appropriate sized breaker in the sub panel. You can then add a 110v general purpose outlet circuit (lighting, 110v outlets etc) off that sub panel on its own breaker as well. So your 50amp 'fuse' will protect the wiring from the homes main panel to the sub panel. The sub panel breakers will protect the wiring to each individual equipment or device. To my knowledge they do not make a duplex 50amp recepticle or even a duplex recepticle rated for more than 20amps. So as far as I know, no you will not be able to swap it out to have 2 220v outlets. Couple of things to keep in mind: Due to the size of the circuit that was already ran out there I wouldnt get that big of a sub panel, If you stay with a sub panel that has fewer than 6 breakers I believe you can forgo having to have a main disconnect at the sub panel and that will save you some cash on the sub panel purchase. If you want a main breaker you can go ahead and get a sub panel with one it wont hurt. If you plan to have more than 6 breakers in the enclosure then make sure you get a sub panel with main breaker. When pricing your sub panels keep in mind if it comes with a main breaker or weather you will have to purchase one in addition too. That really cheap deal you see might not be that cheap if you have to buy a main breaker for the sub panel. There are other work arounds for this part of things but I dont want to confuse you. in addition to the main breaker youll pry want to get an extra grounding bar kit for the sub panel as well. For any new wiring circuitry you are doing you can use 3 or 4 wire for the wiring to the equipment. It really comes down to the grounding and the receptacle and the plug. Both wires will work, most people and companies these days use a 4 wire but theres plenty of 3 wire stuff installed daily on existing stuff. I would personally just match the receptacle to the equipment plug and then get the appropriate sized wire with the appropriate number of conductors. . Running a 4 wire and using 3 of the conductors is fine too, Just tuck the extra neutral (white wire) away in the back with a wire nut on it. If you match your new receptacles to your existing plug setup youll save a few bucks having to replace any plugs on your equipment. Just make sure if your equipment requires a 4 wire (which I doubt) that you run the 4 wire otherwise you gotta cheat and you dont want to have to do that. The wiring to the sub panel depending on a few factors should be 4 wire (used to be able to use 3 wire now you have to separate the neutrals and grounds thus requiring a 4 wire instead of a 3 wire). I am hoping and assuming that the electrician ran a 4 wire to the 50amp outlet he installed and that you can swap a sub panel right to the existing wiring. Otherwise you have to get creative or you need to add a wire or re-do the wiring all together. Few points regarding this: If you want a bigger (more juice) sub panel go ahead and replace the wiring with the appropriate size conductors and 4 wires. I would suggest not getting 'creative' while we can make it work and its the way it was done for a long time, it technically wouldnt be upto code so I dont suggest it. Although you could I suppose install the sub panel make it work, then if it was ever an issue just remove it and replace it with the 50amp outlet that was originally there. Pretty feasible if its an unfinished area and say you wanted to sell the place in a few years and didnt want the buyers home inspector to raise any issues.....Ultimately I suggest just doing it right the first time. For your new circuits that you may run I'd suggest 20amp for the general purpose lighting and for the bigger amperage outlet I'd possibly look into the cost of aluminum wire, especially if you have any significant distance to run. You will need to get a different sized aluminum conductor than a copper one so either ask your hardware store helper or shoot me an email and I can help you size the wire. If its a short distance and moneys not a big object just use copper 4 wire and then your covered for the future if you get a different piece of equipment or ever re-arrange your shop and plug something else into it. For the 20amp general circuits youll want to use #12 copper. If you end up needing to replace or add wiring for a sub panel and again if its any length of distance ask or look into aluminum wiring, it works just as well if sized correctly and its significantly cheaper usually. Installing the sub panel has a few do's and dont's but before i break off into that tangent let me know where you are at with things and what your thinking. If you want to install the sub panel I can help walk you through it if your comfortable or can help inform you so when you talk to the electrical contractor/electrician you get exactly what you want and need. Couple of points on basic electrical theory and equipment: The analogy with the vacuum cleaner is a very good one. You draw what you draw and thats it. That means if you plug your 15amp saw into a 20amp outlet your gunna just draw 15 of the 20 amps. However you can run into problems if you plug something into to big of a circuit (this is the reason they dont just put all your outlets on 1 50 amp circuit all tied together) while your draw might be 'not an issue' if you had any sort of electrical issues with the device or piece of equipment (short circuit etc) you could in theory not create a large enough arc to trip the over sized breaker feeding the circuit. So if you plug a 15 amp drill into a 50amp outlet and it shorts out the short may not be enough to effectively trip the breaker. This is because breakers are inversely proportional and require (depending on the ampacity of the breaker) a certain size of arc to trip. To keep nuisance tripping to a minimum usually they (the breakers) require a certain size to the arc to trip the breaker. This is the reason why they use different sized plugs and receptacles, to keep that 15 amp saw off a 50amp circuit with out the appropriate over current protection. In general unless you know what your doing its a good idea to stick with the general rules for conductor sizing and over current protection. You can have a similar issue with putting to small of a breaker on to big of a wire as the larger wire actually absorbs some of the arc and in turn the arc may not be large enough to trip the breaker. This could result in say a wire that was arcing and continued to arc possibly causing a fire,damage to the conductors or even worse. Theres a reason there are rules (and no its not so they can be broken) and while I dont claim to agree with every one of them most of them were put in place for a reason to avoid a problem or possible danger. So yes its fine with in reason to plug in to a larger sized circuit but it has its limitations if your staying within the realm of safety. Sorry for the rambling. Im beat down tired and just got off work. Heading to bed now, will check back in a day or so. Hopefully I wasnt so tired I misspoke some where. Will re-read and edit tommorow if i did. ;-) Nyles PS - the reason 3 wires is more expensive than 4 wire is usually a supply and demand. There seems to be more of a demand for 4 wire so they make alot more of it.
  20. Nyles

    Labrador Puppies

    Glad its working! They've been a blast for me and the family so far. My wife unfortunately is adamant that we are not keeping one. ;-( Nyles
  21. Nyles

    Labrador Puppies

    My girl had pups a few weeks ago. If anyone's interested in viewing I set up a web cam so people can view them 24/7. So if your into labradors, puppies, or especially labrador puppies check out the cuties at www.seatonserver.com/pages/jazz/puppycam.html just click on the puppycam link. take care. Nyles PS - If anyone's been wondering what happened to me, A few months ago I had the brilliant idea to enroll in school to take up a little of my free time. I am now burred with homework and classes... Fortunately I have a small reprieve now between summer and fall quarters. Hope everyone has been well! pps - please let me know if you have any issues viewing the camera. it should be up and working.
  22. Milo, Shop looks fantastic. Sorry it took me so long to drop by. I wrote you a PM as well. Congrats again and looks good. Nyles
  23. the appropriate plug is determined by amperage and voltage, and usually there will be serveral options of different configurations. Most of those configurations have to do with weather its a 3-wire systems or a 4-wire system. And most of that has to do with the ground and neutral. As long as the plugs rated for the voltage and ampacity any plug will really work as long as the plug (male end) matches the recepticle (female end). If you have any other questions I can go a little deeper, just email me as I am not on here as often as I used to be cause of School. Nyles PS - you can hardwire your equipment and save the cost of the plugs, but if you do that you need to have disconnects installed OR the breaker panel needs to be in the same room.... OTHERWISE the plug IS the disconnect and thats why using a plug gets you around that NEC requirement. Nothing end of the world, but thought id mention it in case you want everything upto code. .
  24. Jens, I do alot of hybrid woodworking. Mostly small prokjects at the moment. Its been a few months since I even stepped into the shop honestly since i started school this summer... what was i thinking going to school over the summer? Anyways, welcome Jens. Always nice to see more pacific NW people. Nyles