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krtwood last won the day on August 27 2020

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About krtwood

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  1. Dave at Engel's Coach Shop says you can bend kiln dried just fine and that's generally the only kind of wood he's able to get so that's what he uses and he's a pro at this.
  2. It sounds like you want a trim router with a plunge base. Makita makes a 1-1/4 hp router that you can get with a plunge base. You'll need a collet adapter to go from the 1/4" collet to the 1/8" of a Dremel. Wouldn't really recommend dropping it on the floor though. If you can get by without a plunge base, I might go for a cordless router of whatever brand from your other cordless tools. I have a Foredom and not really a fan of it. A Dremel is easier to maneuver for light work and it's too easy to break the flex shaft for heavier work. Though I have dropped the handpiece on the c
  3. The reason you would want a 1" belt instead of a 6" is to fit somewhere the 6" won't. But the 6x48 sander is going to have a 6" wide platen behind it so that's not going to help you. A 1" sander usually doesn't have all that structure behind it so you can do some slack belt kind of work without a platen. Putting a 1" belt on a 6" sander isn't going to make it a 1" sander.
  4. I did a test where I glued up 3" of solid maple, cherry, baltic birch, and MDF and measured it with calipers in summer and winter. The MDF changed the most, followed by the baltic birch.
  5. Plywood does expand and contract in thickness just as much as solid wood.
  6. If you have an edge guide for the router, I use something along the lines of this
  7. Also keep in mind that a wide slab has to come from a much older tree. Even buying regular lumber you can start paying a premium when the boards get over even 8" wide. All board feet of lumber are not equal.
  8. I'm not sure what you mean by offset gap, but you would be essentially scribing the extension to match whatever is there when it's expanded. As long as you only make the adjustment to the extension then you aren't going to alter anything about how it meets up without the extension. I would say run the track saw through the gap with it closed first and then see what that does to how the extension fits. Maybe you won't even have to do anything to it.
  9. To fudge it to make it work, first get the two edges of the table to meet perfectly without the extension. I would probably cut through the seam with my track saw. Then adjust only the extension to meet with the table.
  10. Router bearings are removable. If you're going to try it, at least get the right size bearing.
  11. Yes you can just reduce from the 8" to 6". You don't harm a dust collector by restricting the airflow. It's counter-intuitive but the more restricted it is the less power it draws. In fact if you just completely close off the inlet that is when it will draw the least power as it's not doing much work.
  12. In the 5" range, I'll take my Bosch over the Festool and especially around Black Friday you can just about buy the whole Bosch for the cost of a replacement pad for the Festool.
  13. has some glues especially for veneer work. I got some Ultra-CAT for some bent lamination work so I have also been using that for veneering as I have it, but it's a powder you have to mix every time. I would try some of their Better Bond glues as an alternative to the TB cold press, but haven't tried it myself yet.
  14. For clamping I would probably screw some boards with a notch at the bottom into the wall framing and then use wedges to tighten the glue up against the wall.
  15. The teeth would break if they came to that sharp of a point. What you can do instead of kerf bending is a bent lamination. Build up multiple layers equal in thickness to what you left when you cut the kerfs.