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krtwood last won the day on June 17

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About krtwood

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    Power Carving, Boxes

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  1. I suggested a rail as that would use less material, especially if already have the back cut. But extending the back down works too. If you want it to look more open you could add a curve or two angled cuts on the bottom. What you're trying to prevent here is sideways swaying (racking) or the connection of the sides to the desk top failing if the piece is dragged sideways on the floor. It's kind of a personal decision of how solid do you want the thing to feel and also how much do you trust the quality of the plywood.
  2. More pocket holes wouldn't hurt, but what you really need is another rail in the back down low.
  3. If the lid is removable then you could plane down the high side and then the opposite end on the underside to get the two faces parallel again and just end up with a thinner lid.
  4. Ebay, seller spaltedwoods. Keep that just between us though. Don't need any riffraff cleaning the place out. Fortunately they're in the neighboring state so the shipping isn't bad. Nah, I already made a bunch in hard maple and walnut. But I am tragically going to cut most of the spalted stuff up into little pieces though.
  5. Banner package day. Try not to drool on the keyboard over this spalted maple. And the less exciting stuff: a whole lot of rubber feet and the screws to make sure they don't fall off for cutting boards, some small knobs, double-sided tape, and finish. Not a big fan of glossy water based poly but have to finish some curly maple drawer fronts and the flat on the rest of the piece won't do.
  6. If it trips then I'll have more incentive to run the 220. I am just not looking forward to getting to the box the Clearvue is hooked into which is buried behind the filter stack in a tight closet. I doubt the HF DC motor is reversible. I still have my 1.5 hp DC kicking around and looked at that too and it's not reversible either.
  7. I prefer to do the opposite of the other Kevin and have the two ends down. Where you were likely going wrong is you were putting pressure in the middle, which just flattens out the board before it gets to the cutter and then when you take the pressure off it springs right back without having actually done anything to take out the bow. You have to put pressure only on the ends and if you are doing it right you'll hear it stop cutting in the middle and then start again as you get to the end.
  8. Nice job! The first machine I built was a drum sander and like you it took two tries to get it right. Though mine is much simpler and has no conveyor belt.
  9. True about the motor on the saw. If nothing else it's good to have it as a backup to the motor on my saw. When I did the motor bearings on mine I put a Grizzly motor in its place so I could open it up and find out what bearings it needed without having to put it back together while I waited for them to come in. The saw did not like that Grizzly motor one bit. It bounced around and made the saw vibrate like crazy. So good to have the exact same motor around if I need it. I'm probably going to get a Grizzly 2 hp motor, since I'm ordering the cutterhead from there and the bearing blocks. It has the advantage of theoretically being able to run on a 110 20a circuit. I don't have any 220 in the shop except for the dust collector. But that circuit has most of the shop lights on it too so I can't expect to fully load that motor and not trip the breaker. I plan to extend the circuit the dust collector is on, since I won't be hooking the jointer up to DC it can run on that circuit. But at least I can test it on 110 until I get around to that. I'll have my eye out on craigslist to see if a suitable motor turns up though. There is a 2 hp motor on there now out of a Shop Fox molder but it's not reversible either. Thank you, though I think you overestimate the requirements a bit and I get to follow in the footsteps of more experienced people than me.
  10. You also get twice as much carbide for about 75% more money, so there's that. But in value terms I could have used the table saw motor if I used the lunchbox head so it's way way more money in the short term. I'm sure I'll use that motor for something else though eventually. Plus more cutters means not having to rotate the cutters as often and I am all about not having to touch anything setup wise on the jointer for years and years. Of course, that's why we share what we do.
  11. The woodworking part of it should be pretty straightforward and the metalworking part - well I had never even used a cutoff wheel before so if I can do it, you can do it. But then I've cut my teeth in building tools with things like a drum sander. A little less intimidating spinning sandpaper than carbide. That's pretty much why I started this. It's hard to follow along a build on Instagram if don't catch every post. Yes, I saw that one. The aluminum bearing blocks are interesting but I have an easy solution for that. Because I'm using a cutterhead designed for a jointer I can just order the bearing blocks for that jointer for about $40. No need to reinvent the wheel when a manufacturer has already solved the problem for you.
  12. I've reached a tipping point with living with my 6" jointer and an upgrade has moved to the top of the tool priority list. I'm in a small basement shop so getting a big jointer in there is not realistic. A combo machine doesn't suit my workflow. So really the only option I have would be to build one myself, ala Matthias Wandel and John Heisz. Their builds used a cutterhead from a lunchbox planer. Matthias also used the motor from the planer, John used an induction motor. They both made the tables out of plywood skinned with thick sheet metal. That's the part that I really had misgivings about. I was thinking I wish I could just order something like a 12" x 24" cast iron table from somewhere and then it hit me: table saw extension wings! My Ridgid TS3650 has cast iron wings but with a partial open web. Looking online, Sawstop sells cast iron wings separately for $270. I think that's a reasonable expense for the jointer beds, but I didn't feel great about spending that kind of money just to immediately take an angle grinder to them to make them fit over the cutterhead without being sure what would happen. Maybe they would warp if I cut the end off? Then I got to looking at spiral cutterheads. I put a Byrd head in my 6" and I'm not going back to straight knives. One thing to note about the cutterheads from lunchbox planers is they all seem to have the drive pulley on the same side, which ends up being on the front side of a jointer. Because the cutterheads are a small diameter the pulley ends up limiting your ability to joint anything wider than the cutterhead and I didn't want that. Then in looking at various options it turned out that the cutterheads for 15" planers are about the same cost as the 12" jointer cutterheads. Reason being the planer cutterheads are 3" diameter with 4-5 rows and the jointer cutterheads are 4" diameter with 8 rows. Now I didn't want to get greedy about the size of my jointer, but I may very well upgrade to a 15" planer someday so a 15" jointer would be swell. However those cutterheads have what looks to be at least a 2" extension from the cutters to where the bearing goes on the drive side. This is to get to the other side of the posts on the planer. So this makes the whole thing effectively much larger than just the extra 3" of the cutterhead. Also this rules out using the tables saw wings. Grizzly does sell some cast iron wings for their 15" planers, but they are way too short. So I settled on a 4" diameter 12" jointer cutterhead and getting the Sawstop wings. Can't afford to do that right now, so I'll set this aside. Right after I take a peek at Craigslist just to see if maybe there's a table saw with cast wings I could nab on the cheap and maybe pick up the wings and a motor at the same time. Well, wouldn't you know it. There's a TS3650 in REALLY rough shape for $100. It followed me home. You should see the blade that was on it. I think it was the factory blade. It has maybe 10 teeth left on it that aren't broken. I'm not cleaning it to get an exact count. From the rust on the arbor I don't think that blade was ever taken off. There's four notches in the blade insert from kickbacks. The other side of the cabinet where the tilt wheel mounts is bent and buckled. Like I said, ROUGH shape. He said it needed a new motor but after asking a couple questions I was pretty confident it was a wiring/switch issue, and it did turn out to be the switch. However it's spinning the wrong way and not reversible. There's a bunch of potentially useful parts in the saw though. I may be able to use the pulleys and belt, swapping them around will get close to the right speed. Don't know what the shaft size on the cutterhead is yet though. They are poly-v belt pulleys which seem to just be unobtainable so it looks like it's all or nothing with those. The tilt mechanism could be used for adjusting the infeed table. Good long cord. The base has casters, though for the time being I'm just using the main part of the saw as a tool stand for my spindle sander. There's a few round bars and other assorted stuff that may come in handy. The first order of business was to get those wings in some Evaporust. I didn't get enough to submerge the whole wing so I tried covering the rest with paper towels. This kind of worked on the first one but it missed some spots so the second time I tried using a million little spring clips to ensure better contact. That failed miserably. It's just 10 times more effective to have it submerged. The second one didn't get as long to soak because some idiot thought it would be a good idea to use nails to prop up the wing in the solution a little to make sure it got underneath everywhere and then worried that maybe the spot under the nail wouldn't get treated so he should shift it over a bit. He got away with this idea on the first wing but the second one it sprung a leak and peed black fluid all over the end of his workbench. Hopefully he learned a good lesson from that. At least he was in the room at the time and noticed before the whole gallon leaked out. In any case, the rust is mostly gone but it's not a magic pit and stain remover. They aren't beautiful, but they are very flat. One has a .003" dip in the middle and the other is as flat as I can measure. Being pitted makes me a lot less concerned if this isn't going to work out, so let's mark out the cutterhead and break out the grinder. Note here I am marking the wrong end of the outfeed table, after having already marked it in the wrong spot. But I figured it out before the sparks flew, thankfully. Started by cutting the sides. And then along the edge of the bevel. I clamped the bar of the miter gauge on the top just to protect it in case I slipped. Side note: the metal Ridgid uses in their fasteners, at least in that miter gauge, is complete garbage. Stripped out the phillips head just with a screwdriver and it drilled out like it was putty. Then it was kind of like taking out a nick in a very wide chisel. Grind it square then establish a bevel. I put a piece of plywood under the bench to give me a light background behind it and shined a light on the bevel to be able to see better. Then I used my mock cutterhead as a go-no-go gauge to see how I did. It's not pretty and I may go back and refine it a bit but pretty pleased with everything besides the whole shop being covered in iron dust. I have thought about bolting on a bar at the cutterhead end to give it back some strength across the width that I took away but I don't think it's wise to remove the webbing there to make a flat area to bolt to so it would have to be quite deep and notched around all the webbing. The open web complicates it as well. It doesn't seem to need it so I'm just going to leave it the way it is. I should work on filling in the open web soon and I may fool around with a parallelogram mechanism for the infeed but I may not be able to afford to buy the cutterhead for a while and I can't do much of anything beyond that without it. Waiting on some important news on that front, maybe this week.
  13. If you move it towards the left (as viewed in the picture) the swiveling caster will be rotated the other way and it can come up more. I think you have the leveling feet down too much transferring more of the weight onto the wheels.
  14. 3mm Baltic Birch comes in 60"x60" sheets and is about $20 a sheet and will bend to that radius if you go across the grain of the outer plies. Here's a video of me doing pretty much what you want to do: