krtwood

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krtwood last won the day on August 27

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About krtwood

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  • Location
    NH
  • Woodworking Interests
    Power Carving, Boxes

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  1. You might be able to get some lumber from a log that has sat for more than a year or two but you can't count on it. The wood shrinks as it dries and in log form it starts to tear itself apart. Seal the ends right away. If you want bowl blanks for turning then you can just cut the sections of log in half through the center.
  2. I'm not much of a hand tool guy and never used a hold fast, but I believe Jay Bates made a bench out of SYP and then another one out of hickory and he got rid of the hickory one and kept the SYP one. He preferred working on the bench with more give to it, I believe. So it gets more beat up? It's a workbench. It's supposed to get beat up. If you're worried about the dog holes wearing out, put a strip of hardwood where the holes go. My bench is a torsion box with 8/4 soft maple where the dog holes are and baltic birch on the top and bottom. The rest of my bench is air. Pretty sure that's
  3. I had it happen with one I had gotten from Grizzly. I figured it was getting a random signal from a tv remote or garage door opener that was on the same frequency but never figured out what it was. Never had a problem with the Long Ranger.
  4. You can also get the Sawstop PCS with the same motor that's in the contractor saw that will run on 110. That's the money isn't an object 110v option.
  5. I think I would want the taller fence firmly attached, and I'd have to be sure it could really stay square if you were pushing on it higher up. Of course I took the fence support off to make the notches for the belt bigger and now it's all out of whack. It's plugged into the same circuit as my DC (only 220 in the shop) and I never ran the piping over there so the plan was to make a box to go under it. Of course I made that tricky with the curves. That was 7.5" poplar at 1/32" depth. I heard the belt start to hit the fence support like it did when I shut it down so the motor mus
  6. I've been slacking on updates but not on the build. I epoxied on some plywood filler pieces to close up the end of the cast iron and give me a place to attach a baffle that sticks downward and overlaps with the baffle in the frame to block the chips from going forward. Also you can see the cast iron is mounted to the rails of the parallelogram through slots into tapped holes for 1/4-20 bolts. Those bolts can be tightened in place on the jointer. The outfeed table sits on four jack screws to adjust the height and gets bolted in place through the sides. H
  7. You say impact driver but do you already have a cordless drill? Usually you stick with one brand and share the batteries between them. I would also say you don't really need an impact for building cabinets and without experience it can get you into trouble. A drill with a clutch gives you more feedback on how hard the screw is going in and won't over do it. An impact driver can really easily drive a screw deeper than you intended in softer material or twist the head off in harder material (with cheap screws anyway). But the impact is easier on your wrist than driving screws with a drill.
  8. Baltic birch should be pretty consistent in how deep the screws go. For more wiggle room, you could run a normal screw in most of the way and then replace it with screws that you grind the point off.
  9. Funny, I don't remember him using one but it has been a while. I bought one of those cast iron router table tops that cost as much as my table saw, so yes you can certainly spend more on a router table setup than a shaper. But while you've been using your entry level router setup you've been acquiring router bits along the way. So by the time you'd be thinking about a shaper you've already got quite an investment into the bits and it's just simpler to stick with what you know. As far as my shop goes, I'm shoe horned into a small shop and the shaper is one tool that gets stuck in a corn
  10. A hobbyist buys a router first. Then they bodge a quicky router table. Then they make/buy a nicer router table. Then they buy a more powerful router. It's incremental improvements, whereas a shaper is whole different animal. Norm didn't have a shaper. Norm had a router table that he built. We all learned from Norm, before the intertubes. You built a fancy router table to be like Norm. I do have a shaper (and am a youtuber) but only use it for very specific things.
  11. Rockwell/Delta went through various ownership and naming from 1945 through the 70s. The lack of a normal model number might mean it was sold directly to a school or something like that. You might take a look through pictures of various rockwell/delta jointers and see what it looks the most like http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=4&sort=3&th=false&fl=Jointer
  12. She runs pretty smooth, even without all the cast iron. No weird vibrations running or slowing down. I decided to get it over with and just install the 220 outlet from the beginning.
  13. I think I have everything done that I can get done with it up on the table. It spent too long up there and I couldn't stand looking at the open insides of the curve anymore so those got filled in. Let's take a closer look at the depth setting. This is going to work just like a miter saw. Turn the knob to unlock. Squeeze to release the detent lock and move where you want it. I realized just a couple days ago that if I made the knob locking it could have infinite settings just like a regular jointer. I think this is going to be most useful just for the initial setup.
  14. If your experience with cordless is from the NiCad era, which it sounds like, Lithium-Ion is a completely different animal. You get full performance right until the battery is dead and it stays charged. I bought my 18v drill/impact in 2012 and have been through a set of brushes and the batteries are still going. I only use a corded drill for sanding now as the cordless can't really handle continuous use like a corded can. For regular drill stuff, there's a reason you can't find a corded one.
  15. IT WAS THE BEARING! Thank God I did not send the cutterhead back. SKF bearing came in today and while I haven't seated it completely it's at least as tight as the cheapest one and I think tighter. Also tying the links together solved the twisting issue. It's a good day.