krtwood

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About krtwood

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Boxes, furniture, toys

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  1. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    So the interesting thing I think at this point is the total lack of a reference surface. The sides are all curved. The faces/edges are not flat. And the case has some flex to it, which meant trying to flatten a face at this point would probably lead to chasing my tail. So I had to start somewhere. So my first goal was to get rid of that flex by joining the two ends, so that I could then flatten a face. Before I could do that I had to square up the ends, since I obviously can't be cutting through them after there's something joining them. Well, I suppose I could have done some kind of temporary joining, flatten the faces, and then come back to squaring up the ends. But really if they aren't absolutely square it doesn't make any difference. Next I made a fixture to hold the case. There are high stops at the ends to force them all to be the same width. The ones with the sculpting had more springback after I removed a lot of material at the top curve. There's a rail at the front and back which supports a template that I used to route a flat area on each end. I had the bit extended as far as I dared to get to the lower side and it didn't completely flatten it, but the low spot is only 5 thou or so below, it just looks like it's more than that. The walnut piece brings the two level with each other and extends out in both directions. I used walnut here because you can just barely see it in the finished piece from the right viewpoint and I want it to disappear in the shadows. I used block with a cleat on the right side to reference off the edge of the walnut piece to locate the plate that joins the two ends in the same spot on each case, and to hopefully get the slot in it aligned parallel to the sides of the case. The slot is going to receive a vertical divider, more on that at the end of the post. With the two ends joined now I could flatten a face. To do that I had to modify my shop built drum sander for a larger depth of cut. Fortunately I never glued the cabinet together so I could remove the front and back of the cabinet and move the motor to the outside. Then I just had to rig up a temporary support for the table. If I just had a couple of these to do I would have done the other side with the drum sander as well, but with 20 to do and more than 1/8" to remove I did something I don't like to do and that is use the table saw to cut something that isn't flat. They are big enough that my hands were nowhere near the blade and I had a lot of leverage. It went fine. The blue tape did it's job preventing splintering for the most part, just a couple spots I had to fix. That brings us up almost current. I've started working on the rabbet for the back panel. Rather than use a rabbeting bit I cut a pattern on the cnc and am using a pattern bit so they all end up the same. Then I can cut the panels on the cnc and not have to fit anything once I get it dialed in. That vertical divider is what is currently vexing me. It attaches at the bottom into the groove in the joining plate. It attaches to the top of the case... how? I am thinking pocket screws, but on the sculpted version there is not enough material there for a screw. I've got 1/4" at best thickness to the case there. I was thinking about a "pocket dowel", where I would use the pocket hole jig with a regular 3/8" bit instead of the step bit to make a shallow hole in the case so I could insert dowels after sliding the divider in place. But I'm open to other ideas. On the right side of the case there will be a slide out unit for hanging storage on full extension slides. So I have to also get another slide at the top. I think that will be mainly attached to the divider rather than the case, but there's some opportunity to reinforce the divider/case joint there as well.
  2. krtwood

    Harbor Freight DC - can it pull through 6" pipe?

    I had a 1.5 hp JDS dust collector with a 6" inlet. Like you, I was prepping for a move to a larger cyclone and put in 6" pvc pipe. My runs were really short, 10 feet max. I had better performance at the dust producing machines, like the drum sander and band saw. I had major clogging problems with the planer though. But I had major clogging problems with the planer with the 4" flex hose that was there before. So it wasn't too much of a problem, but cleaning out flex hose on the floor is a lot easier than cleaning out 6" pipe on the ceiling. Now that I have my cyclone, I have since added a thien baffle on a trash can on the line to the planer to make the primary waste producer dump its chips in a container that's easier to get to and so I don't overflow the bin on the cyclone. Had I done that with the smaller DC it would have prevented the pipes from getting clogged but maybe made the collection at the planer a fair bit worse from the reduced airflow.
  3. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    I think you'll be surprised at how easy it is to use. It can get away from you a little if you really push it but nothing like those kickbacks. You have the most control pulling it toward you, so I do that when I'm being aggressive with it. I've only had it a short time, but it's 3 carbide cutters. I'd expect the durability to be similar to a router bit. You should be able to sharpen it with a diamond file.
  4. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    Ah, that's you I once did a picture frame with contour map of a mountain range for my brother and his wife's certifcates for completing hiking all the 4000'ers in the state. I could totally see something like that on this as it's kind of a mountain. But then you're narrowing down the potential customer base. They have to have a connection with that place and like the style of the piece. And my style is well, not normal... It depends on the scale you're working on, but I would go right for the turboplane. I started with a kutzall burr disc and while it certainly works, it's really hard to clean. It's a cheaper way to get started but it's kind of like buying a jobsite table saw. You're going to outgrow it in a week. I thought the burr disc would still be useful as a finer option, but I think the turboplane is actually better at making light passes. You can hear it cutting and it doesn't really do much without a tiny bit of pressure, whereas the burr just removes material without you really knowing how much you're taking off unless you take off enough to make the grinder motor change sounds. The turboplane throws chips everywhere whereas the burr kind of sends a stream of dust in one direction, so in certain circumstances the burr is easier to do dust collection. But practically, it's going to make a mess either way and the turboplane makes less dust and doesn't spread the mess as far. It's just utterly hopeless to try to do dust collection with it though. I have nothing but good things to say about the arbortech mini-grinder for smaller work. Though I would recommend the opposite advice and get a 2" burr disc for it. I haven't tried the mini-turboplane they have for it, but I have tried all the blades and you get way smoother results with the burr because of the curved edge. The one I have is from saburrtooth, and it's much easier to clean than the larger kutzall. I don't know if that's because of the different manufacturer or that it's the finest grit. As far as grit goes, I would only get the finest grit. There isn't really that much difference in how aggressive they are so you may as well just leave the best surface. For sanding I use the Tim Skilton sanding pads with the wavy edge discs. Klingspor sells them in a 50 pack for pretty cheap and you burn through them in no time. I have used them in my cordless but it really doesn't like it and gets super hot. So for this project I bought a milwaukee close quarters drill, but haven't used it yet. I have tried my regular corded drill and it's just too awkward. The chuck is too long and the balance is just wrong for the way you have to move it around. So hopefully that's going to be worth it. I have a Foredom flex shaft unit. I have the lower end one, I think the SR, and it's a little underpowered. I would get the bigger one if I had it to do over. Might get it eventually if I end up using it more. Also getting the burr caught up in your sweatshirt breaks the internal part of the flexshaft, so you should have an extra one or two of those lying around. Or so I've heard Full disclosure: I did get the turboplane from a sponsorship but there were no strings attached. I bought all the other arbortech stuff I have before that.
  5. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    The original idea for this was to use something like a contour map to create a 3d surface that was wrapped around the outside of a box. This is the "wavy" part. For a long time I was stuck on how to get started designing this until I came across a video on Suminagashi, Japanese water marbling. I made a pan big enough to do it full size, though it probably would have been better to do it at half scale or so. It kind of took too long to get all the ink everywhere and some areas kind of went past their prime look and became too chaotic. I had some trouble getting the image transferred onto plywood (didn't have any paper large enough on hand) but got one that was good enough on the third try. From there I got that into the computer and interpreted it into a 4 layer contour map. Which I then used the cnc to cut into the plywood. Lots of tabs to hold it together and I had it drill lots of holes in the areas to be removed. I upgraded to this larger cnc pretty much with just this project in mind. The height I made the tabs originally wasn't enough to prevent some breakage in the tight bends. After the first attempt I both increased the height and started putting another sheet of ply with packing tape all over it on the outside during the glue up. I built my tilting power carving bench with having to carve on a big triangle in mind The first time around I just kind of dove into carving it. It got really confusing as to what layer was what and thus hard to tell if I should be looking for another layer under a particular spot or not. The second time around I started taking it down one layer at a time and removing almost all trace of the cnc'd dotted line on that layer before moving down to the next. This first one was one of my early glue ups and the carving exposed a lot of bad glue joints. I didn't make the second attempt until I had done a great many of the regular version (There's 15 regular ones and 5 sculpted ones) and really had the process down. There's one problem area that ends up on the bottom but other than that I am happy and relieved to say there's not a visible bad joint anywhere in all five of them. I did as much as I could with the 4" turboplane, then almost all the rest with a 2" burr disc in the mini-grinder. There's a lot more detail in the design than I can really do with that but most of it gets smoothed out. There are however a few key areas where I went in with the flex shaft. Anything I can do with the mini-grinder I can also power sand, but the smaller stuff is going to need hand sanding and destroy my will to live. So I kept that to a minimum. And here is the prototype 99% sanded. Looking at it I decided that I did not like the way the design cut into the front edge of the case. It looked fine from the side or even at an angle but head on it just looked bad that there wasn't an even frame all the way around, with it just being cut into randomly. Also it cut too deeply into the back edge so I wouldn't be able to have a rabbet for the back panel. So I reworked the design so it only slightly cuts into the front in one spot, which is right where a vertical divider is going to be that connects with the gap between the two ends at the bottom. Then I got to do it again but this time shift the design two inches over so that spot would actually be where it was supposed to be... The next post should catch us up with current state of affairs. Not too much more progress beyond this.
  6. krtwood

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    Part of the problem is that people don't understand that there's a subscription page and the home page. The home page has all of youtube's recommendations and the subscription page has just your subscriptions. There's 3 tabs at the top for home, subscriptions, and trending. You can just go straight to the subscriptions from a bookmark and bypass all their recommendations.
  7. Another option is to drill through the leg 90 degrees from where the screw is going in and insert a dowel into the hole. That will give the screw solid hardwood to bite into.
  8. krtwood

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    That's true, but there's also been something else changed with their algorithm as far as what content gets promoted. Things get changed all the time. If their testing shows a different algorithm increases watch time by 0.1% then that's what they do. What amazes me about it is they have this absolutely ginormous catalog of videos on their servers but you can't get to any of it by looking for it directly. You can only ever find anything by their algorithm deciding that other people who watched what you just watched liked this other stuff so therefore you will like it too. But if you just want to find woodworking channels that you haven't seen before there's no way to find them. You'd think that would be a fairly basic thing to be able to do. Searching will only ever get you the most popular stuff and anything else you have to find by accident or through some other social media avenue.
  9. krtwood

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    I don't know which came first, but I think it's a vicious cycle. The views go down, the content gets promoted less, the views go down, less content gets made, the views go down, the content gets promoted less... But as far as my own content goes, I used to get maybe $100 month from my catalog of videos being recommended by YouTube, plus whatever the new videos did. Now it's down to $20. And the new videos get seen by a small percentage of the subscribers for the first couple of days and then that's pretty much it. The last video made about $7. It really feels like YouTube has turned off the water line at the main and I'm just pouring effort into a black hole at this point. I've thought about turning off the monetization completely so I don't have to look at how pathetic it is, but it's free money.
  10. krtwood

    it pays to be april wilkerson

    You'll be glad to know that the viewership for woodworking content on YouTube has collapsed over the past year. A few channels are still doing okay, but for the most part it's a post apocalyptic wasteland. I've gotten a couple "free" tools over the years but it was never remotely close to what I put into making the videos.
  11. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    I ended up cutting down six of my 18" clamps to 8" so that I would at least have room to move around the thing. That hurt. You know I'm going to need more longer ones than I have now on the next one.
  12. krtwood

    Project Wavy Bent

    I'm working on a limited edition set of 20 jewelry boxes. I don't have a proper name for it yet and am referring to it as Project Wavy Bent because, well, I needed to name the file folder something and that was the first descriptive thing that came to mind. Bent because the outside is a bent lamination and the wavy part we'll get to in the next post. I started out in Sketchup and from there made a full size mockup out of scrap ply and paper all hot glued together. The mockup showed me I was on the right track but had to make it a little smaller as it was too far around for one sheet of ply (5'x5' BB). In the Sketchup drawing I have a basic layout of the front. There will be a vertical slide out section on the right with hanging storage for necklaces and earrings and drawers on the left. I haven't worked out exactly how that's all going to look. I mainly just drew in the front to decide whether I wanted to go with walnut so I could buy the material. I ended up with a couple nice 12" wide 8/4 boards that I can resaw for a bookmatch. Once the outer shape was finalized I used the cnc to cut out an mdf bending form. My first attempts at doing the glue up I did it all on my assembly table and would put all of the clamps on one side of the form and then flip it over to get the other side clamped. This was really awkward and tended to distort the thin plywood so I would end up with gaps on the second side. After a few attempts at that I realized I could have the form supported by post in the middle and be able to get the clamps on both sides at the same time as I worked my way around. I start on the table and get the first four clamps on. Then I work around both sides and then use a ratchet strap to pull it around the other two curves. Here it is with all the clamps. Hard to see from this angle, but at the end closest to the camera I use a couple of track saw clamps as they have a low enough profile to fit under the overlap of the two ends. I do each in three separate glue ups of 2 layers. Once I got the process down pat I probably could have gotten away with doing 3 at a time, as the time went down from 30 minutes to about 15 minutes (not including spreading out the glue) and the glue (Ultra CAT) has a 40 minute working time. But it took quite a while to get there and at that point I decided not to mess with what was working. So I've been working on this since July. Sometimes I get two glue ups done in one day, sometimes only one. Instructions on the glue say 4-6 hours clamping time at 70 degrees. Even in the middle of summer my basement shop rarely hits 70, unless I have the DC running for a while. I've been putting an electric blanket on it which gets the squeeze out cured on the top in 8 hours but not on the bottom. Even if the squeeze out is still mushy the lamination itself is okay to come out of the clamps. The good aspects to this glue besides the working time is that it dries really hard, minimizing the spring back, and it doesn't stick to metal or plastic so it pops right off the clamps. Speaking of clamps, there are a LOT more of them on there now than the first time I did it. I kept modifying the form to find more places to get them on because it would come out a little wavy with high and low spots, and that is not the wavy that I am going for. I still don't have it perfect all the time but it's pretty close. Here is the amount of spring back after the first two layers, about an inch on each side. Once all six are done there is effectively zero spring back. Most of the time I have to pound the form out of it. At this point I have 19 1/3 done. So I'll be able to get doing on the next step very soon. Very much looking forward to not having to share the shop with the clamp porcupine anymore. I haven't been able to get to the planer for two months so it's been a stretch to keep myself busy with small projects.
  13. krtwood

    Help finding specific router bit profile

    Amana makes some engraving bits up to 3/8" diameter with a cutting length up to 3/4" - 45614 "Zero-Point" 90 Degree Engraving 3/8 Dia x 3/4 x 3/8 Shank ZrN Coated Router Bit
  14. Highland Hardwoods in Brentwood, NH isn't too far of a trek up 95, but they aren't open outside of normal working hours except Sat mornings.
  15. krtwood

    White wenge?

    I didn't have any trouble googling for white wenge. http://www.wood-database.com/lati/