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krtwood last won the day on August 27 2020

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About krtwood

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    Power Carving, Boxes

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  1. I did a test where I glued up 3" of solid maple, cherry, baltic birch, and MDF and measured it with calipers in summer and winter. The MDF changed the most, followed by the baltic birch.
  2. Plywood does expand and contract in thickness just as much as solid wood.
  3. If you have an edge guide for the router, I use something along the lines of this
  4. Also keep in mind that a wide slab has to come from a much older tree. Even buying regular lumber you can start paying a premium when the boards get over even 8" wide. All board feet of lumber are not equal.
  5. I'm not sure what you mean by offset gap, but you would be essentially scribing the extension to match whatever is there when it's expanded. As long as you only make the adjustment to the extension then you aren't going to alter anything about how it meets up without the extension. I would say run the track saw through the gap with it closed first and then see what that does to how the extension fits. Maybe you won't even have to do anything to it.
  6. To fudge it to make it work, first get the two edges of the table to meet perfectly without the extension. I would probably cut through the seam with my track saw. Then adjust only the extension to meet with the table.
  7. Router bearings are removable. If you're going to try it, at least get the right size bearing.
  8. Yes you can just reduce from the 8" to 6". You don't harm a dust collector by restricting the airflow. It's counter-intuitive but the more restricted it is the less power it draws. In fact if you just completely close off the inlet that is when it will draw the least power as it's not doing much work.
  9. In the 5" range, I'll take my Bosch over the Festool and especially around Black Friday you can just about buy the whole Bosch for the cost of a replacement pad for the Festool.
  10. has some glues especially for veneer work. I got some Ultra-CAT for some bent lamination work so I have also been using that for veneering as I have it, but it's a powder you have to mix every time. I would try some of their Better Bond glues as an alternative to the TB cold press, but haven't tried it myself yet.
  11. For clamping I would probably screw some boards with a notch at the bottom into the wall framing and then use wedges to tighten the glue up against the wall.
  12. The teeth would break if they came to that sharp of a point. What you can do instead of kerf bending is a bent lamination. Build up multiple layers equal in thickness to what you left when you cut the kerfs.
  13. Seems like vaporware to me. They won't show a picture of what it actually is, supposedly because of patent applications. Patents go to first to file so if they've filed for patents then they have nothing to worry about. If they haven't even filed for a patent yet then how are they thinking they are shipping final product in a few months? It sounds like it mounts where a riving knife would go but the blade drops slightly when it activates. How is something that mounts in an hour or two affecting the height of the blade? I'm highly skeptical.
  14. Call it Event Horizon and imagine the "blot" is getting sucked down into oblivion.
  15. It's those stupid inserts that catch the corners of the work. The best thing you can do for the spindle sander is get a piece of 1/4" mdf or whatever, cut a hole in it, stick it on the spindle sander and glue some blocks around the edge of the table to locate it. I make one for 3" and one for 1" and just use the bigger one for the in between sizes. Zero regrets with any of my machines. The woodworking involved is generally easier than any other furniture project you are going to do. It's the "Oh I need a whizzlepuff" and then wait for the whizzlepuff to get shipped that makes the pr